(Topic ID: 239057)

Baby Pac-Man Target and Ball Eject Solenoids not working

By Solenoid_Man

5 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 17 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by frunch
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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Screenshot_20190409_093049_com.google.android.apps.docs(1).jpg
20190405_202301 (resized).jpg
Baby Pac-Man Right Flipper Solenoid_2.pdf (PDF preview)
Baby Pac-Man Right Flipper Solenoid.pdf (PDF preview)
1557595889.png
Target Solenoid (resized).jpeg
Flipper Solenoid Broken Wire (resized).jpg

#1 5 years ago

Hello,
This is my first post and first attempt at repairing a video game. I've enjoyed reading many posts here and am amazed at the knowledge of everyone.

I have a Baby Pac-Man that I am trying to repair. I have several issues with the game, such as the monitor is only displaying two colors, but that is for later as I may do a LCD swap. But for now, I am trying to get the Targets to pop back up and the ball eject solenoid doesn't work. I'm hoping to get some help/advice.

What I have done so far:

Targets solenoid:
Measured for voltage from ground to both terminals on the solenoid (NO-26-1900). I measured 47 VDC on one terminal and 0 VDC on the other. My understanding is that both terminals should have approximately the same voltage but only one does. Is this an indication that the solenoid is bad or possibly something in the circuit board? Is there a test I can do or should I just find a replacement?

Ball Eject:
The ball is supposed to eject when the right flipper is pressed. The flipper works properly but the ball eject solenoid doesn't activate. I found two possible issues; 1) there is no diode on the right flipper blades (I actually found it attached to the speaker magnet). I have purchased new diodes but not sure if this will fix the ball eject issue. 2) I found a wire hanging off the right flipper and not sure where it is supposed to go. It is white with green stripe. I appears to go to the ball eject solenoid but I'm not sure. I have looked at the wiring diagram but there's no color codes that I can see other than numbers. I assume the numbers correspond to a color but not sure.

I know that's a lot but I appreciate everyone's help and advice!

Target Solenoid (resized).jpegTarget Solenoid (resized).jpegFlipper Solenoid Broken Wire (resized).jpgFlipper Solenoid Broken Wire (resized).jpg
#2 5 years ago

The ball ejects on its own without the press of a flipper. Isn’t there a fuse under the playfield for the kickout solenoid? Did you remove and test? Does eject kicker work in solenoid test? Also, LCD? Shame!

#3 5 years ago

As always with Baby Pac-Man, have all the IDC connectors been replaced with molex connectors?
The original translucent red plugs are trash and totally unreliable and will cause much grief. Change them to molex plugs and many issues will disappear.

Also, agreed, LCD is a bad choice, it will look hideous and I doubt there is an LCD the proper size. Easier to use the original TV.

#4 5 years ago

First, thank you for the reply. Second, I knew I would get some (a lot) of grief about replacing the monitor. However, I played with the color adjustments and it looks better. I have been shamed into keeping the CRT.

Third, there isn't a fuse next to the kick out solenoid but there are 3 next to the right flipper. All 3 are all good.

I am unfamiliar with the solenoid test. Can you tell me how?

Also, I traced the loose wire that is just below the right flipper solenoid back to the MPU board J2 #8 then loops to the vidiot board at J1. Any suggestions on where it connects to near the solenoid would be appreciated!
Thanks!

#5 5 years ago

Isochronic_Frost - No, I have not replaced the IDC connectors yet. I will order new ones and replace and see what that fixes.

#6 5 years ago
Quoted from Solenoid_Man:

Isochronic_Frost - No, I have not replaced the IDC connectors yet. I will order new ones and replace and see what that fixes.

It’s worth a shot. I won’t lie, I only replaced half and it fixed my issue, but now I’m having a similar issue and I’m gonna replace the rest, I just gotta find the time

#7 5 years ago
Quoted from Solenoid_Man:

Targets solenoid:
Measured for voltage from ground to both terminals on the solenoid (NO-26-1900). I measured 47 VDC on one terminal and 0 VDC on the other. My understanding is that both terminals should have approximately the same voltage but only one does.

If the solenoid isn't pulling in with 47VDC on one terminal and 0VDC on the other, then it says there is an open circuit on the coil. Carefully inspect the green coil windings that attach to each lug incase one has broken off at the lug.

#8 5 years ago

I'm thinking same as Quench, probably an open coil. As he said, check the thin coil winding wire, it may be green in color as opposed to the red used on this coil. In the pic below, the yellow arrows are pointing at the coil wires he was referring to. You may find it broken off one end where it attaches to one of the solder lugs. If you should find that to be the case, you can use sandpaper to remove the protective coating from the wire so it can take solder and then re-solder it to the solder lug. If the wire won't reach, you may be able to unwrap it from the coil for a turn, cut off the excess, sand off the coating from the wire, and then solder it to the lug. If you have any questions about the process, i can provide more pics and info. Hopefully it's something simple like that. Also, if you determine it's a bad coil and can't seem to fix it using the suggestions above, replacements are available.
1557595889.png1557595889.png

#9 5 years ago

When in doubt check the schematic. That clearly shows you must have a diode in series with the flipper EOS switch to fire the ball out. Note, this is different from the flipper coil EOS, there is a second low power switch that closes at EOS that tells the game the flipper is flipped and it can kick the ball out.
I do not see a special fuse for the drop target reset other than the 1A SB fuse for all the playfield coils.
To get the game in self test there should be a small red button inside the front door. First press is lamps, then a couple more presses to run through the coil test.

I recommend you get the manual and schematics if you havn't done so already.

#10 4 years ago

Thanks for the replies! I’ve been out of town for a few weeks but will be back Friday. I will run thru the tests then.

I had already found the manual and schematics online and am still digesting it all.
Thanks again to all!

#11 4 years ago

I did the self test using the button on the front door. None of the solenoids pulled in. Although, when I did manually kick the ball in and the ball entered the holes near the saucers, both of the eject solenoids work. I need to figure out where the broken wire (white with green stripe) goes on the right flipper switch. Also, need to know which terminals the diode goes across (see pics).

Now I have a much larger problem. I carefully pulled the connectors off the MPU board to see how difficult it was going to be to replace them as suggested by @Isochronic_Frost. When I reconnected them, the LED on the MPU board stays lit continuously. It doesn't flash at all and the monitor turns on but nothing is on the screen. I removed the board and inspected the solder joints thinking I cracked one or more but they look ok. I also inspected (as best I can) all the components for visually fried parts. I didn't see any. As I was inspecting the board, I realized the board that is in this machine is AS-2518-35 board, NOT the AS-2518-133. I did read that you could use this board with some modifications, which this board has been modified. Regardless, I think I am in much bigger trouble now that the MPU board doesn't work.

Any suggestions for what to look for? I still need to replace the IDC connectors but not sure if that is the problem.

I realize I am new at this but I am willing to learn.

Thanks!

Baby Pac-Man Right Flipper Solenoid.pdfBaby Pac-Man Right Flipper Solenoid.pdfBaby Pac-Man Right Flipper Solenoid_2.pdfBaby Pac-Man Right Flipper Solenoid_2.pdf
#12 4 years ago

This might help.

20190405_202301 (resized).jpg20190405_202301 (resized).jpg
#13 4 years ago

Yes, FireballAK, that helps tremendously! Thank you!

Now, how to get that MPU fixed....?

#14 4 years ago

Start with the basics: test all your voltages at their test points on the rectifier board and solenoid driver board (5v, 12v, etc) and list them here if you like. You'll definitely have trouble if voltages are missing/incorrect.

#15 4 years ago

OK, so here is what I have so far for the test points:

-35 board, not the -133 original board
TP1 - 4.97v
TP2 - 14.47v
TP3 - 4.27v
TP4 - 0v
TP5 - 4.98v
TP6 - .535v
TP7 - 3.93v

Looking at the above voltages, is TP6 out of range?

#16 4 years ago

Looking thru the schematic, it looks like TP2 should be 5v and TP3 should be 21.5v. TP1 and TP5 at 5v and TP4 at 0v look close according to the schematic.

#17 4 years ago

Which board are you getting those readings from? I just realized this game uses a different solenoid driver board than other classic Bally's--this one has a lamp/solenoid combo board (AS-2518-107) that's similar but different (in particular, no high voltage section for gas discharge displays)... Anyway, here's the schematic i pulled from ipdb, the test points are here:
Screenshot_20190409_093049_com.google.android.apps.docs(1).jpgScreenshot_20190409_093049_com.google.android.apps.docs(1).jpg

Maybe I'm looking at this wrong, but it looks like TP1 is 13-16 unregulated DC, TP2 is +5VDC, TP3 is ground (put black probe of meter on this test point for checking the DC voltages on that board), TP4,5,6,7 all appear to be +5VDC as well? Gotta admit, I'm probably nearing the boundaries of my knowledge here...

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