(Topic ID: 354408)

Baby Pac-Man not booting, Vidiot issue

By HopsWaterBarley

46 days ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 18 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by Skatewake
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

F40C9D5E-C676-49DD-8A05-7CBD3DC4D894_1_105_c.jpeg
7969D578-C6C7-4CB0-B1F4-6138F741F7B6_1_105_c.jpeg
52675009-591B-4A3F-BA7E-7CA941EE3B42_1_105_c.jpeg
07796437-A055-4FD5-BE6B-5BC360C1FDA4_1_105_c.jpeg
6ADC59C6-E28F-4E66-BE2B-68095E7EF140_1_105_c.jpeg
DC7BBC98-0A72-4FF9-9CA4-E24A84A4655A_1_105_c.jpeg
E7B23FED-0F81-45BF-928A-42FBEC4DB5CA_1_105_c.jpeg
A392F1D0-77A1-4D06-BA43-24D17089D35B_1_105_c.jpeg
274B32D4-97F2-4328-AE3F-E65ACEE2FADD_1_105_c.jpeg
5B72B00F-C243-4563-B380-667532D10AFA_1_105_c.jpeg
16CC7393-9570-4A9A-A4DA-5FAC8FA7B2BA_1_105_c.jpeg
F0D50C4F-C288-4972-873B-2109D1BB64DB_1_105_c.jpeg
IMG_5866 (resized).jpeg
IMG_5254 (resized).jpeg
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
#1 46 days ago

TLDR; Only getting two blinks on Vidiot board. Looking for assistance on next steps. See post for details.

Here is the history of this game:
The guy I bought it from had got it from a lot of 50+ games he picked up in bulk, so this unit was in unknown condition for everything, other than what I could see. I at least knew that pretty much every part was present, if not in the best shape. I vowed to make sure I checked out and laid hands on every part of this thing before even plugging it in.

So far I have already :
*Replaced T-molding on cabinet (T-molding was missing, but when I bought it, it came with a replacement set that had blue for the sides and pink for the top, which looks pretty decent for a color scheme)
*Replaced damaged power cable
*Replaced missing and improper amp fuses
*Checked out the power supply, and changed out the fuse holders on the power board. (I did plug in the power at that point to confirm I had correct voltages coming from power supply and power board)
*Flipper rebuild kit, including new coils for flippers (one of the coils had a sleeve stuck that I couldn't get out)
*New Flipper bats
*Replace a broken leaf switch on one of the side bumpers
*Re-attached the wiring going to the speakers that had been cut at some point
*Replaced missing hold-downs for wiring harness under playfield
*Changed out the transistors for all the lights, and the capacitor on the driver combo board.
*Repaired a broken trace and a couple of bad solder pads on driver board
*Re-flowed connectors on combo driver board
*Scraped off an old failed clearcoat/mylar (not sure what it was) that was over the overlay, and was flaking off.
*Re-pinned all the connectors
*Swapped out all the lamp sockets for LEDs and also new sockets for GI lamps
*New locks
*Repainted the black on the inside side panels, as it was pretty scratched up down to wood in places.
*Re-attached some flaking on the backglass and marquee with triple-thick clearcoat
*Added rubber U-channel to the edges of the playfield glass
*Removed all the playfield parts, ran metal parts through evapo-rust, and then rock-tumbled small parts in crushed walnut shells to polish
*Cleaned/lubricated the coin eject buttons, as they were stuck
*Replaced the grounding strap going to coin door
*Cleaned and adjusted the saucer kickers
*Checked and replaced missing / bad diodes on lamp sockets (but hose have since been ripped out to put in the LED kit, lol)
*Checked and reflowed/reconnected wiring going to all the coils/switches (most of them were pretty gnarly with several broken wire repairs that I removed and re-attached wire cleanly)
*Install new alltek MPU
*Restored / clean up the drop target assembly, including new drop targets, and replacing a missing rod that goes through.
*Replace springs on memory coils for drop target (one of them was weak)
*Adjust the leaf switches for drop targets, (and any others on the playfield)
*Run the board mounting bracket on the bottom side of MPU through the evapo-rust bath to remove corrosion from old battery leakage.
*3 of the wire ball guides have broken wires at the base, need to fabricate replacements from stainless welding wire.
*Re-install playfield parts, including new rubbers, plastic posts, and new silkscreened plastics.
Adjust and lock down position of flipper bats (they are only currently on finger-tight when I did the rebuild, as to not make a heavy indent on the new ones before I had the playfield back together to set the right angle)
*Install new leg levelers
*Install new pinballs
*Installed some LED light strips to add in to light up the backglass around the monitor, and also light up the marquee, instead of using the old fluorescent light. (there are plugged into the 120v service outlet, not the wire harness.)

I have parts ready for replacement if needed on :
*volume potentiometer on coin door if needed
*5 adjustment pots on vidiot
*Flipper button leaf switches

***************************************
Vidiot troubleshooting notes:
***************************************

Before I booted the game up I had pulled out the vidiot board from the game, with the intent of re-flowing the pins for the harness, and possibly changing out the POTS I had on hand already.

Inspection of the board showed shiny solder on the pins had already been reflowed, and it also appears that capacitors and POTs were recently replaced. At this time I did not reflow anything, and only cleaned the header pins up, and put de-oxit on them , wiping with q-tip after.
Re-installed board into game.

First time booting up the game:
noticed that :
Monitor was blurry, this is likely just an adjustment needed in the Monitor, maybe? Not relevant to question, probably.

When playing the game, even though the screen was blurry, it was playable the first night.
All the lights on playfield worked properly, except for one I had to fix a solder joint on.
In self-test mode, all the solenoids fired properly.
The right saucer would not eject the ball, I suspect the switch may need adjustment.
Scores saved OK

Sometimes when playing, though, the game would randomly bug out, or lock up.
Sometimes you would randomly lose a life.
Sometimes while you were in pinball mode, and went back to video mode, it would be locked up.
Not always the same ways, not repeatable.
Sometimes you would make it through a game, and others, only one or two balls in.
Rebooting the machine would allow you to play again until it bugged out again.
Sometimes would lock up even if I was in self-test mode.

Shut the game off for the night.

Next day I :
Took out the vidiot board , removed all the socketed chips, and cleaned up the pins of the chips with fiberglass scratch brush, and then also put deoxit on all the pins, let it sit for a few minutes, and then cleaned off deoxit with a q-tip on all the pins of all the removed chips.
Note that several of the chips had fairly dirty pins, some had clean pins, none appeared heavily corroded.

As for the sockets on the board, I brushed deoxit into all the sockets, and let it sit for a while.
I wiped off excess from the surface, but note that some deoxit remained in the wipers of the sockets.

Also put deoxit on all the pins to the harness, and wiped off with qtip.

The U16 chip pins were not really damaged, but were black with some kind of corrosion or dirt, this took some work to attempt to clean off.
Pin 3 on the U16 9928 chip broke off a leg while cleaning.
I temporarily ran a bodge wire from the remainder of the leg to the nearest pad trace on the board, and plugged the chip in.
The legs were pretty clean after working on them, though, other than that broken leg.

Re-installed chips into sockets, re-installed board into machine, and powered back up.
At this time the machine would only boot as far as two blinks on vidiot. Instead of the previous state where it booted correctly, but then later bugged out during play.

This indicated an issue with eprom at U12, according to manual.

I ordered replacement chips for all of the board, and also an eprom programmer, to be able to check and re-write the eproms, as needed..

Chips arrived on 4/3 I first replaced the U16 chip, and removed the bodge wire.
Booted game up, still only getting two blinks on the vidiot

eprom writer arrived today 4/4/24

I pulled and checked the ROMS from U9-10-11-12 all checked out good, compared to ROMS downloaded from IPDB, noting also that U9 contained the updated ROM, not the old version.

Re-installed ROMS, tried again booting, still two blinks.
*Note that the first time booting, it gave 5 blinks, and the test sounds, but all subsequent tries were only two blinks. Perhaps this is relevant?

Tried replacing the chips at U8, U13, U14
No improvement, still only two blinks. Did not get the 5 blinks on the first try like last time.

Removed board again from the game, and
*Reflowed the solder on all of the input pins from the wire harness.
*Replaced the socket in U12 with a new dual-wipe socket.
*Re-seated all the socketed chips again.
**note: still running replaced chips at U8, U13, U14, U16
Tried putting the board back in again, with only one of the sockets replaced, to see if that improves it:

Still only 2 blinks.

I figure my next steps are:
Replace all the remaining current Sockets with dual wipe.

And possibly:
Burn new ROMs, since I have the chips available. (Even though they tested OK?)
Replace the other socketed chips I have not already replaced, if needed

***************************
This is where I ask for any input or suggestions from the group. Thank you in advance.
***************************

Keep in mind I have available on hand, if needed:

A set of the 5 trimmer POTS

And pasted in from my twistywrist invoice:

74LS155
4 $1.27 $5.08
74LS374
3 $0.84 $2.52
74LS02
2 $0.58 $1.16
74LS368
2 $1.29 $2.58
NOS 6821 PIA
2 $7.95 $15.90
68B09E
2 $6.20 $12.40
2114 Ram
3 $3.65 $10.95
TMS9928
2 $14.75 $29.50
LM359
3 $3.95 $11.85
4517 Ram
9 $3.75 $33.75
6803
2 $5.75 $11.50
74LS373
2 $0.84 $1.68
74LS10
2 $0.71 $1.42
LM3900
2 $0.80 $1.60
TDA2003 Vertical
2 $3.85 $7.70
28 Pin .6" Socket
10 $0.69 $6.90
40 Pin .6" Socket
10 $0.89 $8.90
20 Pin .3" Socket
10 $0.32 $3.20
16 Pin .3" Socket
25 $0.26 $6.50
14 Pin .3" Socket
10 $0.29 $2.90
18 Pin .3" Socket
10 $0.32 $3.20
24 Pin .6" Socket
10 $0.65 $6.50
22 Pin .4" Socket
10 $0.65 $6.50
8 Pin .3" Socket
10 $0.25 $2.50
NOS 2764 EPROM
10 $3.85 $38.50

#2 45 days ago
Quoted from HopsWaterBarley:

The right saucer would not eject the ball, I suspect the switch may need adjustment.
Scores saved OK

Sometimes when playing, though, the game would randomly bug out, or lock up.
Sometimes you would randomly lose a life.
Sometimes while you were in pinball mode, and went back to video mode, it would be locked up.
Not always the same ways, not repeatable.
Sometimes you would make it through a game, and others, only one or two balls in.
Rebooting the machine would allow you to play again until it bugged out again.
Sometimes would lock up even if I was in self-test mode.

All of this flakiness sounds like connection issues. Does your game still have IDC connectors? Mine had an issue with the saucer not kicking out and was flaky until I replaced all of the 0.1 headers on the boards and crimped new pins to the harness and put them into new 0.1 connector housings. (Getting rid of the IDC connectors.) I think you should address the harness especially because of the battery corrosion. Did corrosion also drip down onto the vidiot board?

Quoted from HopsWaterBarley:

Still only 2 blinks.

It was kind of working, then you disconnected harness and took the board out. did some board work. when put back in and reconnected, maybe some harness pins were broken/damaged, or wire pulled from IDC when connector was removed. Connections could also be the reason the vidiot won't boot properly.

Quoted from HopsWaterBarley:

This is where I ask for any input or suggestions

Get it back to the last known (kind of) working state. Avoid introducing more variables by doing additional board work.
Recheck all of the board work that you've done. If replaced sockets, beep out with multimeter. Confirm good connections but also check for shorts. Put chips in sockets and make sure no legs are out of sockets. Then confirm continuity between each chip leg at the top of chip and the solder pad on back of the board.

Then address the harness connections.

#3 45 days ago
Quoted from REGNE:

All of this flakiness sounds like connection issues. Does your game still have IDC connectors? Mine had an issue with the saucer not kicking out and was flaky until I replaced all of the 0.1 headers on the boards and crimped new pins to the harness and put them into new 0.1 connector housings. (Getting rid of the IDC connectors.) I think you should address the harness especially because of the battery corrosion. Did corrosion also drip down onto the vidiot board?

It was kind of working, then you disconnected harness and took the board out. did some board work. when put back in and reconnected, maybe some harness pins were broken/damaged, or wire pulled from IDC when connector was removed. Connections could also be the reason the vidiot won't boot properly.

Get it back to the last known (kind of) working state. Avoid introducing more variables by doing additional board work.
Recheck all of the board work that you've done. If replaced sockets, beep out with multimeter. Confirm good connections but also check for shorts. Put chips in sockets and make sure no legs are out of sockets. Then confirm continuity between each chip leg at the top of chip and the solder pad on back of the board.
Then address the harness connections.

This is exactly what I had to do to mine. Replace all connectors......

#4 44 days ago

OK, so time for an update with my progress.

Quoted from REGNE:

All of this flakiness sounds like connection issues. Does your game still have IDC connectors? Mine had an issue with the saucer not kicking out and was flaky until I replaced all of the 0.1 headers on the boards and crimped new pins to the harness and put them into new 0.1 connector housings. (Getting rid of the IDC connectors.)

I have replaced ALL of the IDC connectors on the harness, before I ever powered it up. I even popped for the fancy "gold plated" pins from mouser, lol. I am pretty confident in the pins/harness at this point. Here is a pic of the ones that connect to the one side of the Vidiot:
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

That is why I also went and re-flowed the solder on all the pins board-side, to make sure none of those has a broken or cold solder joint.

I am currently working on getting the chip sockets swapped out for the nice dual-wipe ones I ordered, as I suspected them next. Unfortunately, my junky solder sucker de-soldering iron gave me more trouble than it is worth, and in the process now I have also damaged one of the traces, and a couple pads. Fortunately that was an easy fix with a few bodge wires.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Here, for reference is a picture of the junk solder sucker that I cannot recommend:
IMG_5866 (resized).jpegIMG_5866 (resized).jpeg

Then, I have one of the new RAM sockets giving me trouble going in, it went in crooked. I would have been fine with it being a bit crooked, if it weren't for the fact that now 4 of the pins are solder-bridged together, so now I have to remove it to remove the solder bridging under the socket and I can't get it all the way in, nor can I now get it out with the junk de-soldering tool I got, so I have a new, better de-soldering vacuum station and also a hot air rework station coming from amazon, to deal with that.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CGXFYRWJ
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08BK3M6YW

On a positive note at least, MOST of the sockets got replaced without incident... it's always one or two that give you shit. And I suppose, this gave me a good excuse to buy some more expensive tools that I had not justified the expense of before this

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

One more thing I discovered while working on these sockets, was a couple of really dodgy solder joins on the one side of the two tiny capacitors either side of the Y2 crystal. The one on the right side was not even properly connected, and after pulling the giant globs of solder off, I could see that someone must have cut the legs on the one side of each, maybe to test them or something? Since I now had them both lifted, I tested them with my multimeter in capacitor mode, and neither one seemed to read correctly.
I figured I better look those up, and get some replacements ordered from Mouser... And while I was ordering, I said to heck with it, and ended up ordering all the possible capacitors, and resistors for the whole board, just in case.

I zoomed in and marked in a red arrow an old pic of the board from before I messed with it.
IMG_5254 (resized).jpegIMG_5254 (resized).jpeg

So at this point, I need to wait for my mouser and amazon orders to arrive, so back on hold for now.

#5 44 days ago
Quoted from REGNE:

Did corrosion also drip down onto the vidiot board?

The Vidiot board shows no sign of corrosion from the MPU battery.

#6 42 days ago
Quoted from HopsWaterBarley:

I have replaced ALL of the IDC connectors on the harness, before I ever powered it up.

Ah, I must have missed that in your initial post. Apologies.

Quoted from HopsWaterBarley:

so now I have to remove it to remove the solder bridging under the socket and I can't get it all the way in, nor can I now get it out with the junk de-soldering tool I got, so I have a new, better de-soldering vacuum station and also a hot air rework station coming from amazon, to deal with that.

You could always pop the top. desolder, pick & pull each pin. clear holes. and put in another new socket. It seems your use of the "junk de-soldering tool" is damaging the vidiot pcb. It's better to sacrifice the socket in this case. Take care not to apply too much heat into those traces.

...Still doesn't explain why it was kind of working and now won't boot after some board work. Double/triple check your board work... and maybe, just maybe, consider sending it out for repair before any additional hackage occurs. Good luck.

#7 42 days ago

Shotgunning this board never works. Often you create more problems especially when replacing sockets(the pads and traces are very fragile). First thing is to get out your meter and check for the proper voltages of +5 and +12 on the board. Next the PIA'a and the 6809 have to be good for it to boot up with 10 flashes(you mentioned the ROMs were good, which is probably true since it did boot ok at first). The caps around the crystals are probably ok since it booted at first. I'm guessing the problem was just the connectors originally and now who knows? Random advice: never use Deoxit or gold plated pins/sockets.

#8 42 days ago
Quoted from HopsWaterBarley:

On a positive note at least, MOST of the sockets got replaced without incident

It looks like at least one socket is not sitting flush against the board.

Look for polymide tape. You can use that to tape sockets/components in place on the top side of the board while you solder them on the back. The tape is heat resistant and won't melt while you're soldering.

Quoted from jj44114:

Shotgunning this board never works. Often you create more problems especially when replacing sockets(the pads and traces are very fragile).

For boards with fragile traces, I found it very helpful to shine a bright light through the PCB to help spot broken traces. A bright LED bulb used in a lamp fixture usually works. The light on your phone or a simple flashlight probably won't be too helpful.

#9 42 days ago

Even with the best desoldering equipment the sockets on this board are a challenge to replace without damaging pads and traces. I try to avoid replacing any sockets on this board unless absolutely necessary.

#10 40 days ago
Quoted from REGNE:

You could always pop the top. desolder, pick & pull each pin. clear holes. and put in another new socket.

That is what I did, but I also waited until I got the new desoldering tool today. Came out without any further trouble, and the new one went in clean. I beeped out all the traces to the ram and eprom sockets, and they all are making continuity where they should, to the adjacent chips.

1 week later
#11 32 days ago

So I have a retro chip tester pro I got and put together the kit, but don't have it working yet either. Once I get that working, I will be able to test the individual chips on the board to rule them out one by one, but in the meantime, i figured I would work on the suspected issues with the crystals and their accompanying capacitors. Also figured it won't hurt to replace the electrolytic caps too.

I have done some more work to the vidiot:

======================

On Apr 17, 2024, I Replaced the 4 electrolytic capacitors @
C54, C92, C107, C109
Tested old ones, not too far from spec.
Tested replacements as good, and installed.

===================
On Apr 18, 2024 I replaced the suspect capacitors C62, C63 on either side of the crystal at Y2
These were the ones that had been cut and re-soldered poorly before I got the board.

When testing the old ones, they tested high, at 350pf and 0.21nf
(should be 33PF)

I also replaced the 10.73Mhz crystal at Y2, as the casing was rusty.
=======================

Powered up board, test light only comes on and stays on.
Tested voltages
both 5v, 5va and 8.2v are OK.
=======================

Next going to try to replace the other two crystals, and corresponding capacitors.

old capacitors readings:
c64/65 old @ 106pf / 141pf (should be 27PF)

replaced
c64 c65
and
y3 crystal 3.580M
======================

plugged in again, now getting two blinks, and then the third blink stays lit

*flicker* *blink* then *solid ON*

======================

replaced y1 crystal 3.580M

c60, c61 replaced

old capacitors readings:
0.44nf / 129pf old readings (should be 27PF)

======================
Tried booting it up again, still getting two blinks, and then solid on.

At first when pushing the test button on the sound, I got the expected test sound several times .
After 15-20 successful sound tests, the sound test began to fail, with crackly sounds, and occasional other sounds, not the regular test sound.

Unplugged it, let it sit for a while to cool, and then:

I did a test leaving it on for a few minutes, while watching chips on thermal camera.
Nothing too surprising, the main chips heated up as expected, and also large resistors, .
Hottest part was the big diodes in power supply area.
I have this test on recording through the FLIR app.

During this test I did not pus the test button for the sound, but at one point it started making some crackly noises, and a few sounds, I powered it off shortly after.

1 week later
#12 23 days ago

Rev B Vidiot board notes

I have bought a second board from ebay this last week, hoping to have better luck with a second board, and if nothing else have a second one to compare to.

Front side of board before any work on it:
F0D50C4F-C288-4972-873B-2109D1BB64DB_1_105_c.jpegF0D50C4F-C288-4972-873B-2109D1BB64DB_1_105_c.jpeg

Back side of board before any work on it:
16CC7393-9570-4A9A-A4DA-5FAC8FA7B2BA_1_105_c.jpeg16CC7393-9570-4A9A-A4DA-5FAC8FA7B2BA_1_105_c.jpeg

*note that this board is a “REV B” board, and my original one is a REV A board, so that is how I will refer to them in this thread to keep them separate in discussions. Below are my notes on initial inspection, and first few steps in checking this one out:

*Note I labeled the chips this board came with, with green colored labels, in case they get swapped around I know which ones it stared with later.

On the First try booting up:

Only powering up board with J3 plugged in:
And test leads to check voltages
Got 4 blinks first try
Voltages good

DC7BBC98-0A72-4FF9-9CA4-E24A84A4655A_1_105_c.jpegDC7BBC98-0A72-4FF9-9CA4-E24A84A4655A_1_105_c.jpeg
6ADC59C6-E28F-4E66-BE2B-68095E7EF140_1_105_c.jpeg6ADC59C6-E28F-4E66-BE2B-68095E7EF140_1_105_c.jpeg
Socket for U10 was very corroded
Rom U10 pins corroded
*note that the sticker over chip looked fresh while others looked old

07796437-A055-4FD5-BE6B-5BC360C1FDA4_1_105_c.jpeg07796437-A055-4FD5-BE6B-5BC360C1FDA4_1_105_c.jpeg
Replaced socket at U10
Cleaned up board in the area with vinegar, to neutralize any alkaline when socket was out
Cleaned pins on U10 ROM, and reinstalled.

Upon boot, still failed at 4 blinks

Checked U10 rom in chip reader.
Chip read as blank.
I tried to write to the original (blank) chip.
Write operation failed

I had a good replacement ROM chip, replaced U10 rom

Upon boot, got 10 blinks.

Hooked up all the connectors this time in-game

Upon boot, monitor was not synchronized

Upon second boot in game, adjusted the RT2 sync pot until image stabilized

For a few moments I saw the screen in booted game with baby pac using his yo-yo

Then the game froze, on that yoyo screen.

Powered off, and back on, watching the board blinks.
Now only getting two blinks.

Suspecting U12 now, I re-seated the rom, no improvement

Replaced the rom at u12, still only two blinks.

This is all the testing and work I have done so far on this board. I know it will need more work, for preventative maintenance items, such as replacing electrolytic caps, probably replacing the connectors, and possibly replacing other components that appear corroded. I have not yet done any of that.

=================
=================
Below, This is where I note the condition of this board, and that this board has other signs of corrosion down the middle , assumably from battery leakage from MPU board in the past. (unlike the other revA board I also have)
=================
=================

A392F1D0-77A1-4D06-BA43-24D17089D35B_1_105_c.jpegA392F1D0-77A1-4D06-BA43-24D17089D35B_1_105_c.jpeg
Also the electrolytic capacitors are all original, and looking questionable

F40C9D5E-C676-49DD-8A05-7CBD3DC4D894_1_105_c.jpegF40C9D5E-C676-49DD-8A05-7CBD3DC4D894_1_105_c.jpeg
Pins on U16 chip are black looking,

7969D578-C6C7-4CB0-B1F4-6138F741F7B6_1_105_c.jpeg7969D578-C6C7-4CB0-B1F4-6138F741F7B6_1_105_c.jpeg
Rusty pins on backside for :
Y3
C64/65
C74
U32
C92
R81
Vr3
R71
C107
C109
C110
R122
C111
C112

52675009-591B-4A3F-BA7E-7CA941EE3B42_1_105_c.jpeg52675009-591B-4A3F-BA7E-7CA941EE3B42_1_105_c.jpeg

Corrosion at
J4 pins 11/12
J5
U15
R82/83
C73
C74/75

There are two bodges on back:
274B32D4-97F2-4328-AE3F-E65ACEE2FADD_1_105_c.jpeg274B32D4-97F2-4328-AE3F-E65ACEE2FADD_1_105_c.jpeg
J4 pin 2 to ground plane (capacitor or diode?)

5B72B00F-C243-4563-B380-667532D10AFA_1_105_c.jpeg5B72B00F-C243-4563-B380-667532D10AFA_1_105_c.jpeg
U16 between pins 12 to 33
A resistor and capacitor

E7B23FED-0F81-45BF-928A-42FBEC4DB5CA_1_105_c.jpegE7B23FED-0F81-45BF-928A-42FBEC4DB5CA_1_105_c.jpeg
#13 21 days ago

It’s gonna be the highest priced Vidiot ever. You lost me at “thermal camera”.

#14 21 days ago

To be honest, you should have sent the first board out for repair. Replacing sockets is a last resort. You replaced many the of sockets. I can guarantee that some traces or pads were compromised. Now you are in no mans land. These boards usually don’t need surgery that radical. The second board looks worse. I hope you figure it out

#15 21 days ago

^^x2

As someone who has repaired more vidiots than most, but certainly not as many as jj44114 or cdjump, this thread is impossible to help on. You have undoubtedly changed more good parts than bad and damaged traces in the process. Pandora's box is now open and finding all the issues, pre existing and self induced, will be challenging.

1 week later
#16 8 days ago

Wow. This is an eye opening thread.
I just bought a baby pac and I took need it worked on. It goes into screen test and com test but does not go beyond 2 blinks. When I press the sound button nothing happens.
I normally would dig in, but due to the scarcity of this board, it's getting sent to a professional.

#17 5 days ago

Thanks everyone for your input, I have sent both boards out to a pro to get repaired. When I find out what was the problem, I will report back here so we can all learn a little, hopefully.

#18 4 days ago

What I had had to do with both of my Baby Pacs was to pull all of the ROM chips out and clean/sand the connections to get it clean. Also, I had repinned and removed the IDC's and put crimp type Molex with gold pins.

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
$ 9.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
$ 100.00
Gameroom - Decorations
The Flipper Room
 
$ 45.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
$ 15.00
Electronics
Yorktown Arcade Supply
 
$ 199.95

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/baby-pac-man-not-booting-vidiot-issue and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.