Baby Pac-Man MPU board

(Topic ID: 185536)

Baby Pac-Man MPU board


By BingoBongo

1 year ago



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  • 55 posts
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  • Latest reply 1 year ago by ForceFlow
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There are 55 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 1 year ago

Has anyone replaced the broken or missing MPU board on a Baby Pac-Man?

This is my first restoration and I am starting with this piece since it is missing. It is the upper right board on the back door as it swings open and I want to purchase a new one. MacroSpecialties has this one categorized under Baby Pac-Man, can anyone confirm that this will work?

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/ULTIMATE

Thanks for the help!

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#3 1 year ago

Yes that will work
Running one in mine for awhile and
Works great

#4 1 year ago

Yep. Just got mine from Marco last week for Baby Pac and works great

#5 1 year ago

Great, thanks! I'm sure I will be back with more questions later!

#6 1 year ago

+3

#7 1 year ago

Monitor Test works from the back of the machine and displays nicely on the monitor, but otherwise no video on the monitor yet. Is that simply because I don't have the MPU board yet to finish the circuit and show an image? Or is there something else that is stopping the game image from displaying even though the MPU board isn't installed yet?

#8 1 year ago
Quoted from BingoBongo:

Monitor Test works from the back of the machine and displays nicely on the monitor, but otherwise no video on the monitor yet. Is that simply because I don't have the MPU board yet to finish the circuit and show an image? Or is there something else that is stopping the game image from displaying even though the MPU board isn't installed yet?

If I remember right, this is what you would see without a working MPU installed (if the vidiot board boots):

For anything beyond that, you will need a working MPU.

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#9 1 year ago

Waiting on MPU board now. Checking out other items. Marquee doesn't light up, how do I get to it? Only from the front and if so does anyone know the size of security bit I need for those screws?

#10 1 year ago

Running one in mine as well. Works great.

#11 1 year ago

The vision board is the tricky board in this machine. Hope yours works!

(Autocorrect on iPad! Blasted! Vidiot

#12 1 year ago

Is the vision board the same as the vidiot board.

#13 1 year ago
Quoted from BingoBongo:

Is the vision board the same as the vidiot board.

I'm pretty sure it was just an auto-correct typo.

Quoted from BingoBongo:

does anyone know the size of security bit I need for those screws

If you don't have a security bit set, this is a nice set that is fairly inexpensive:

amazon.com link »

#14 1 year ago

Does anyone have a list of what the different sequences of blinking lights mean when you turn on the machine.

Mine seems to do the following, any idea what this means?
4 Slow
3 Fast
1 Slow

#15 1 year ago

The manual has some really good information on the startup procedure and diagnostics (page 11+).

http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/125/Bally_1982_Baby_Pac_Man_Manual.pdf

#17 1 year ago
Quoted from BingoBongo:

Is the vision board the same as the vidiot board.

Just saw your question back. Yes. Blasted spellcheck on my iPad!

#18 1 year ago
Quoted from BingoBongo:

Does anyone have a list of what the different sequences of blinking lights mean when you turn on the machine.
Mine seems to do the following, any idea what this means?
4 Slow
3 Fast
1 Slow

Let YouTube be your friend. I also believe there is a decent PinWiki on the startup.

#19 1 year ago

Here is the latest...MPU board installed and after a lot of fiddling with it, am able to get it to show the full start screen sometimes, sometimes just pac man going across the screen. But, either way when I start the game it just gets scrambled and the only thing the joystick does is to still try to scroll through the menus. Thoughts?

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#20 1 year ago

Your vidiot board has some issues. I'm guessing you may have some bad RAM (or possibly ROM/EPROM) chips.

Start by removing those chips (do you have a chip puller?) and cleaning the legs. I use a pink rubber eraser to remove tarnish and grime. Just be careful not to bend the legs.

#21 1 year ago

Tonights fun...put in a new florescent bulb for the marquee, it lit up for a split second and went out. Can't replicate it. I assume I blew the bulb. Thoughts? Is it the capacitor behind the bulb?

#22 1 year ago
Quoted from BingoBongo:

Is it the capacitor behind the bulb?

The can shaped part is a starter, not a cap. Yes, they occasionally go bad.

#23 1 year ago

Would that blow the bulb or does it seem like the starter blew? I'm going to go get a couple more starters today. Would there be something else that is throwing it off or blowing the starter?

#24 1 year ago
Quoted from BingoBongo:

Would that blow the bulb or does it seem like the starter blew?

I honestly don't have enough experience with them to be able to say if a failed starter could harm a bulb.

Quoted from BingoBongo:

Would there be something else that is throwing it off or blowing the starter?

Incorrect voltages or wiring problems, perhaps. Maybe problems with the transformer.

#25 1 year ago

Last night's endeavor cleaning one of the chips resulted in no gains towards a playable Baby Pac-Man. What we have noticed are...

a) The test screen does not show anything...what would cause this?

b) The D4 light on the new MPU board is not staying lit in a dim state as it is supposed to even after doing the correct blinking sequence when first turned on. Is there a specific reason for this result, something I am not doing?

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#26 1 year ago
Quoted from BingoBongo:

The test screen does not show anything...what would cause this?

One or both of the boards have problems, or they are not connected to each other through the wiring somehow.

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Baby_Pac-Man#Communications_Test_Problems

Quoted from BingoBongo:

The D4 light on the new MPU board is not staying lit in a dim state as it is supposed to even after doing the correct blinking sequence when first turned on. Is there a specific reason for this result, something I am not doing?

Unfortunately, I am not familiar with the alltek board's behavior.

Do you have the game dip switches set correctly? Can you post a photo?

#27 1 year ago

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#28 1 year ago
Quoted from BingoBongo:

Would that blow the bulb or does it seem like the starter blew? I'm going to go get a couple more starters today. Would there be something else that is throwing it off or blowing the starter?

Bad starters don't blow out florescent tubes. Bad ballasts can. Now, if some moron opened up the starter and bypassed it and left the same, Preheat ballast in place, all bets are off....

#29 1 year ago

Transmit Screen showing now...not sure what we did to solve that. But, looks like there are 4 errors...any idea what these errors are specifically controlling?

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#30 1 year ago

They control game play. Pinball & Video modes.

Those insulation displacement connectors are prone to failure. All of them. Consider replacing all of them. starting with the ones that connect to the MPU and Vidiot boards.

#31 1 year ago
Quoted from MrBally:

They control game play. Pinball & Video modes.
Those insulation displacement connectors are prone to failure. All of them. Consider replacing all of them. starting with the ones that connect to the MPU and Vidiot boards.

Do you mean the connector cables...is that what an insulation displacement connector is?

#32 1 year ago

All of these.

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#33 1 year ago
Quoted from BingoBongo:

Do you mean the connector cables...is that what an insulation displacement connector is?

It's usually referred to as an IDC connector. The wires are pressed into a pin at the top of the connector, rather than pins being crimped onto the wire.

Wires in an ID connector have a tendency to pop out or lose contact with the pin.

Also, cracked solder joints on the header pins may be a cause. Dirty & corroded pins could also be a factor.

Look at the chart for the communications test on the pinwiki page to determine which wires/pins/paths are faulty.

#34 1 year ago

Where is the best place to get all of the connectors that I need?

#36 1 year ago

Just a good thing to go through before you replace the connectors is to re-seat all of them. Pull them out one by one look for corrosion or coloring on the board prongs and clean (Rubbing alcohol and a q-tip) as needed. Replace the connector and see if that helps.

#37 1 year ago

Also, if you are going to the trouble of replacing the IDC connectors, you should replace the pins on the board too.

#38 1 year ago

Did anyone have any thoughts on the D4 led in one of the pictures above? It blinks during startup but then goes out when it is supposed to stay dimly lit.

#39 1 year ago

Tonight I cleaned pins on two of the connectors of the vidiot board with alcohol and then started working on light bulbs...when I flipped the playfield back down I noticed that two more of the transmissions were working...40 and on and off 20. So it seems like the last one...40 or 20...makes the game work. Then I noticed that the lights that were working even before I started changing bulbs were no longer working...Then when I was put the playfield back in again I noticed a flash come from the bottom...seemed like I blew a fuse or something. Now I am back to just a black screen again. Thoughts on the lights and what could have made the transmissions work for awhile?

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#40 1 year ago
Quoted from BingoBongo:

Thoughts on the lights and what could have made the transmissions work for awhile?

Have you replaced the IDC connectors MrBally mentioned? Until you replace those and the associated header pins (on your original boards, not the new board), you will forever get intermittent connections between these boards and you will never be able to make sense out of why one or all work one day and not the next.

#41 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Have you replaced the IDC connectors MrBally mentioned? Until you replace those and the associated header pins (on your original boards, not the new board), you will forever get intermittent connections between these boards and you will never be able to make sense out of why one or all work one day and not the next.

Not yet, I am starting with the cleaning as some have suggested. I am not nearly skilled enough to do any soldering and want to make that my last resort. Wasn't sure if the cleaning was what was helping it to work or if I had jiggled something internally while working on the playfield lights. Speaking of the lights...any thoughts on most of them now going out? Will it be a simple fuse change-out?

#42 1 year ago

The header pins either have cracked solder joints or are to corroded to provide a good electrical connection. They probably need to be replaced.

As for the lamps, the 2N5060 SCR's on the driver board each drive two lamps are very sensitive since they weren't quite intended to do this. So, they can blow even if you just look at them funny. If you do find bad SCR's, it's a little better to replace them with 2N5064 SCR's. Since each SCR drives to lamps, so if you have a problem with two lamps (according to the lamp/SCR chart), chances are that an SCR is at fault:

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Baby_Pac-Man#Lamps

Some people even go a step further and use MCR106's instead of 2N5060/2N5064's, which are designed to drive two lamps:

https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=232992

The 2N5060's weren't designed to handle 2 lamps, but the MCR106's were.

Other lamp problems can be caused by flaky sockets, bad diodes on the lamp sockets, or connector issues.

If you've eliminated the lamp sockets and connectors as the issue and if you are not comfortable doing your own board repairs (it is best to practice on junk boards first if you do), you can send boards out for repair:

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pinball_Board_Repair_Services

#43 1 year ago

Can anyone better explai then the manual which fuses I need for both sets of pictures below? One is the power supply and the other is under the Playfield. I'm confused because the type I can find/have bought look different than what is in there already. I pulled the one from the power supply, but I also blew the 1 amp fuse under the playfield and tried replacing it but not sure it is the right one.

Also, does anyone know exactly what each of these groups of fuses do? And in particular, the two that I blew? I have read the manual and it just doesn't explain it enough.

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#44 1 year ago

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#45 1 year ago

Problem is I am not sure what these even mean. I bought a bunch of 1 amp and 10 amp fused yesterday that I believe are both Slo Blo and Fast...but I am not sure. Seems like things are not labeled the same as they were 40 years ago...I can post a picture of the fuses later tonight.

What do the following mean?
- SOL BUSS
- SW. ILL
- 6.5 V vs. 43V - How does this translate to buying fuses in 2017?
- unreg +5v

I just want to make sure I am 100% correct on the fuses I put in so I don't damage anything on the boards or power supply.

Thanks for all of the help!

#46 1 year ago

Solenoid Bus (power for solenoids)

Switched Illumination Bus (power for feature lamps)

Quoted from BingoBongo:

- 6.5 V vs. 43V - How does this translate to buying fuses in 2017?

Those are the voltages that are operating on those circuits. It has nothing to do with fuse values.

Unregulated +5v

Quoted from BingoBongo:

I just want to make sure I am 100% correct on the fuses I put in so I don't damage anything on the boards or power supply.

In most cases, you want slow-blo fuses with the indicated amperage rating. Normally for games of this era, everything is slow-blow unless otherwise marked on the labels or schematics (as fast-blow or FS).

Normally, fast blow fuses only have a thin filament. Slow-blo fuses have a thicker, coiled filament.

#47 1 year ago
Quoted from BingoBongo:

Not yet, I am starting with the cleaning as some have suggested. I am not nearly skilled enough to do any soldering and want to make that my last resort. Wasn't sure if the cleaning was what was helping it to work or if I had jiggled something internally while working on the playfield lights. Speaking of the lights...any thoughts on most of them now going out? Will it be a simple fuse change-out?

I 2nd/3rd/4th/etc this. Mine has the same issue. The volume connection on mine is barely hanging on the end because if I plug it in fully, the sound goes down to almost nothing. One day the game plays one way. If I move the game, something else will work that didn't before.

#48 1 year ago
Quoted from BingoBongo:

I am not nearly skilled enough to do any soldering and want to make that my last resort.

I know a guy in your area who can help. He re-soldered a couple things on my pin. Good dude. Would probably work for beer. Or Moscow Mules. He's more of a Moscow Mule guy.

#49 1 year ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

Solenoid Bus (power for solenoids)

Switched Illumination Bus (power for feature lamps)

Those are the voltages that are operating on those circuits. It has nothing to do with fuse values.

Unregulated +5v

In most cases, you want slow-blo fuses with the indicated amperage rating. Normally for games of this era, everything is slow-blow unless otherwise marked on the labels or schematics (as fast-blow or FS).
Normally, fast blow fuses only have a thin filament. Slow-blo fuses have a thicker, coiled filament.

This is great information! Thanks a ton.

Any idea what each of the fused on the power supply do that I have in the first picture?

#50 1 year ago

Since baby pacman does not have any score displays a fuse for F2 is not needed.

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Baby_Pac-Man#Rectifier

For everything else, if you look at the schematics, you should be able to follow along with what the fuses connect to.

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