Allyn, WA
stream was fun today
#530
(Topic ID: 257850)
Linked Games
Rick and Morty (Blood Sucker Edition)
Spooky Pinball, 2020-
Rick and Morty (Standard)
Spooky Pinball, 2020
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Quoted from epthegeek:I just hope everyone bears in mind that "(NAME OF THING) mode!" is very simple to post on a forum, but may or may not be possible to turn into a viable fun objective in the game for various reasons. There's quite a bit that goes into it, and all the parts have to work.
Also, don't expect me to react much about what is or is not something we might do. There's a lot on the drawing table already and we're working on things all the time.
the fact that the code feels so full already, and you're fixing bugs so quickly speaks volumes of your abilities.
I know what's missing from the stock sideblades, all the planets: Jerry resort planet, pawn shop planet, tiny planet, screaming sun planet, cob planet, snake planet, purge planet, galactic federal prison
https://rickandmorty.fandom.com/wiki/Category:Planets
Maybe this is a licensing nightmare that's not worth the effort for sideblades?
Quoted from I_P_D_B:Thanks, I've added the BSE to the IPDB. Our listing for SE will wait until I hear they've begun to ship (likely, when I hear buyers received them).
We could use some owner's pics of BSE about now, hint hint.
Thank you.
https://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?any=morty&sortby=name&search=Search+Database&searchtype=quick
Quoted from SpookyLuke:The reason i made this video was for the customer to be able to solve it if it does happen. Not shipping them if they are not working but most customers do not set their games to the correct angle or level either so it affects the ball guide. We also had a few people update the code and it reset the coil settings to default which has since been solved. So the video could help them get the game back to set properly.
You wouldn't believe how many service calls i get that are solved by the game being set to proper pitch and level. The videos are meant to be helpful if you are having an issue not an announcement that ALL games are wrong. I'm adjusting them in under 60 seconds here and having no issues for the duration of testing.
Wait, you don't have to add parts like a post and plastic to make the game playable *black knight SOR* *cough!*
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Quoted from northerndude:Great stream tonight be deadflip.
Also, holy shit has Eric knocked the coding out of the part so far, if there’s more, it’ll be more unreal
Yea the new tilt is hilarious
https://clips.twitch.tv/FancyTolerantPresidentMrDestructoid
2 weeks later
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So K-man pointed out that his game has started to show some VERY slight dimples after about 50 plays. Being an AMH owner I can attest mine looked far worse than this after 50 plays (so it has definitely improved over the years). This is a game that is going to be bolted to my floor, so I want to make sure it looks good for a long time. My question is:
a. If I go the kruzman route, is it just a better looking clear, or will it also be more durable?
b. SpookyLuke if I ordered a playfield protector is this something I could request to be installed during the build?
https://www.playfield-protectors.com/Home/Details/PHlTbzOX7EaNSoM-SNcv-A?fbclid=IwAR2L2eGpJmpbnO5DPIJ1joC2e0331cGUr4O3RnbTu36alMemwr0JqMrlKbI
102714599_10163916936460105_4484925392319210879_o (resized).jpgQuoted from pinheadpierre:Are there protectors out there that are not prone to having the ball hang up on cutouts for rollovers, etc? I hate balls stuck on protectors waaaay more than my mild dislike of dimples.
The description on their website says the latest protectors are even thinner (.5mm) which means switch adjustments shouldn't be necessary. that's like 5 sheets of paper.
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:Is it absolutely mental of me that I’ve turned down three separate offers of $5k (inclusive of deposit) for my spot?
So turning down $3500 profit? I honestly don't know if I could do it, especially if offers like that are rolling in (IE if they're offering that much, what would it cost me to re buy it?). It's funny how this sold out immediately, then a few spots sold, and now that people are streaming mature code more people are going "oh shit, I need one!"
the contrast has to do with viewing angle.. Seeing how I'm 6'4" I probably have the steepest angle and when I played the one at pinball life I didn't notice any display issue. quite frankly the comparison between those two screenshots are so close I could barely tell which is which.
1 week later
Quoted from jellikit:I am hoping we may see some factory lighting like Spooky used with AMH again.[quoted image]
It did do a good job of adding color for modes. I wonder if it was too much work to mill those pockets out (plus my clear lens would always pop out)
1 week later
Quoted from greenhornet:a few months lost
Covid hits, spooky employees forced to stay home.. yet they still moved their entire factory and started cranking out games less than 2 months later.
JJP moves factory from Jersey to Chicago, teased "something" on May 27th, still haven't seen a thing about guns n roses yet.. they showed a shopbot a few days ago, meanwhile spooky says "hold my beer"
2 weeks later
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Quoted from xfassa:Picking up #139 (butter cabinet) on Monday.
Quoted from xfassa:Just got options sheet for #187.
Figure another week for shipment after options picked.. So about 3 weeks between 187 and 139? Looks like Spooky might be ramped up to between 15-20 games a week now. On their last podcast it sounded like they just hired another person (sounds like it's not easy hiring people to build pinball).
1 week later
Quoted from arzoo:His initial ask was 13k, but that quickly dropped to 11.5k. I'm guessing he's raising cash for JJP GNR which is all he can talk about these days.
Other way around.. he asked for $11.5k around 1pm today, then about 7 hours later posted a new ad in the rick and morty group for $13k saying he put the wrong price in but the pinball marketplace takes forever to update changes. Good luck to him getting $13k for a used game, especially with a butter cabinet that will probably get messed up during shipping.
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2 weeks later
Quoted from pinball_ric:I had the same problem and my solution was to put playfield rubbers on the bottom to keep it from rising up. I posted about it a few pages back.
How much metal rod is sticking through the bottom of the playfield? The better solution would be to add some collars to secure them. I'm assuming it's 1/8" wireform (plus about .005" of powder coat). These would probably work well: https://www.mcmaster.com/6432K73/
Quoted from guitarded:So many jokes to make.
https://giphy.com/gifs/hero0fwar-television-the-office-thats-what-she-said-ToMjGpMhVjTvjX5nLs4
giphy (resized).pngQuoted from PDX-Mike:Looks like they're pumping the games out pretty good! I am #660, wonder how long i'm looking at until I see mine.
They are building between 10-15 games per week (assume a dozen average)
If invoice #423 was just paid, and I'm 530 I assume 9 more weeks before I pay my final invoice (10 weeks until my game is ready), so mid-February I should be able to pickup my game.
You are probably closer to 20 weeks before you see an invoice, so probably end of April for your game to be complete.
1 week later
Quoted from SpookyCharlie:Yo' pinball people.
Ok... spent some time on the phone with the mfg. We have never changed anything in the flipper mechs and have been running the same everything since day one here at Spooky over the course of well over 2,000 games to date in that regard.
BUT... looking at older Spooky games here vs Rick and Morty ... you pinball maniacs ain't wrong. The flippers do sit a bit higher with this same ol' same ol' Wms style bushing.
ALSO BUT... some of you do see this as a problem. And we all do agree here that this CAN BE IMPROVED REGARDLESS.
So... since it can be improved... our manufacturer has agreed to work with us and yep, we'll be getting our very own Spooky Pinball specific flipper bushing tooling put together.
Anyone who feels they want to change theirs out, give us an email: [email protected] ... it will take a couple months (best guess) to get this tooling change tested, made, and in stock but we'll happily replace your bushings and obviously they'll be factory installed on all future production.
So there you have it... you spoke, we listened. Anyone who wants a set of 3 bushings for Rick and Morty we'll happily ship you them free of charge.
Hope that helps, and HAPPY HOLIDAYS! Peace, love, and all things pinball ya'll.
I'm starting to not feel so bad about having a higher production number anymore. Thanks to spooky for always striving to do better.
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1 week later
Quoted from jonesjb:I checked and it doesn't look like a Cliffy exists for this, but I think there'd be a bit of interest if cliffy made a protector available.
I'd make a cliffy if I had my game to take measurements. I assume Scott could make some up since he has the CAD data.
I had some ship mounts fabbed in fatigue resistant 301 stainless. Posted it as a reply to a R&M facebook group because I didn't want to advertise (and I would think Spooky would want to do the same if they are having to keep replacing them).
rnm_stainless_ship_mount (resized).jpg
And those 5 sold out.
Starting a list so I can make a larger batch:
1 - calfdemon
1- gac
1- jonesjb
1 - mikes
1- docquest
1 - USMCSGT0331
1 - attack7
1- monkfe
1 - kidchrisso
1 - jigz
1- estrader
1- eagle14
1- cooked71
1- SR230CC
1- loumatt
1- pinbalt
1 - Jherre6
1 - dendoc
1 - Soulstoner
1 - Chisox
1 - goingincirclez
1- bemmett
1- db666
1- JustEverett
1- pinballinreno
1- cheeks
1- ezeltmann
1- Ramrod215
Added over 3 years ago:1- tigerlaw
Added over 3 years ago:1- JSpeights
1 - hocuslocus
1 - jguzik420
Added over 3 years ago:1 - Pinzap
Added over 3 years ago:1 - msw
Added over 3 years ago:1 - Hjbondar
Added over 3 years ago:1 - dancosta
Added over 3 years ago:1- pdxmonkey
Added over 3 years ago:2 - slawnski
Added over 3 years ago:2 - slawnski
Added over 3 years ago:1 - boatshoe
Added over 3 years ago:1 - Chitownpinball
Quoted from SkillShot:520 received options list for game for anyone who’s tracking.
Holy crap, that means I'm like a week behind you :-0
Looks like they're ahead of schedule. Time to figure out which game has to move to the basement.
Quoted from jguzik420:i also want to be added to this list. please and thank you
If anyone has posted here or PM'd me, I haven't replied but I have added you to the orginal post.
Good news, I've found a source to lower the price back down to $15 (plus shipping). Not looking to profit off Scott's hard work, just wanted to offer an alternate solution to what seems like a lurking problem. I may want to wait a week or two for the first dozen buyers to install it and make sure there's no issues before I pull the trigger on a large order from a brand new vendor.
Quoted from Calfdemon:For those keeping track (I know I was!!), I just submitted my options list for #544 to Joe at PinballStar. Everything except the butter cab and the coin box. Butter would be nice, but with my setup, its wasted as you cannot see the sides of the cabs.
On a side note, I am Joe's very last BSE. So every PinballStar order after mine is a standard.
Got my email as well #530.. February/March build date (which is what I estimated from the beginning).
Quoted from gliebig:I voted for R&M in every category. Was hoping it took home some awards.
Won best sound and callouts
https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=2538&v=AdHxNaESHq8&feature=youtu.be
Mailing out the initial ship mounts has been slow (Chicago distribution has been hit or miss lately). One person got theirs installed, no issues with installation or ship movement so I'm going to be pulling the trigger soon on more. Those that want to see what it looks like installed:
metal_ship_mount (resized).jpg
The left half is already covered with the 3d printed cone. The only art the metal mount is blocking are 2 tiny screws, a nut, and a crushed can
clear_mount (resized).png
Quoted from JustEverett:Here is the inside of the post. It attaches to the plastic just south of the meeseeks target via three screws that come up from under the plastic into the bottom of the post.
[quoted image][quoted image]
spooky... come on now. I get trying to save print time but that infill is like 10%. At least it's a simple model, looks like I have some modeling to do when I get my game.
Quoted from Soulstoner:$50USD shooter rail that "Isn't needed" but seriously, the current one sucks
Terry stopped selling them over the weekend because people were commenting on facebook how this part should be included with the stock game (not as a mod). I wish he would change his mind.
Quoted from PinBalt:Just curious. Count you in what?
Parts should be shipping out from the vendor tomorrow, they ran into material shortage issues (which is why it's been taking so long). Probably won't show up until next week.
This is what I love about spooky.. They might have their issues, but they OWN it. They don't try to deny it, or cover it up.
"Oh williams games dimpled just as bad back in the day"
"Our games aren't too difficult, play better"
As they always say it's not whether you screw up, it's how you deal with problems.
So metal ship brackets came in today.. this is how they come (raw metal printing, burn marks from the laser)
raw-part (resized).jpg
After a few minutes of rubbing with a green scrubby, it shines up well
shiny (resized).jpg
I'm considering painting them black, or white (to match the 3d printed ship mount) so it blends in more.. Or is that cardinal sin like painting a stainless delorean? Either way, even though I have parts in hand it's going to take me a little bit to clean the surface of at least 40 parts.
1 week later
So got my game today, played about 5-6 games with the wife.. Didn't notice the too high flipper issue, no flipper knockdown, all shots seem makeable out of the box, no loose plugs, even the wireform ramp was good with no balls getting stuck.. suppose I'll hang onto the one I bought from pinball life for now. Code is absolutely amazing, so many modes. I was amazed there was even 3 different match sequence animations, who does that?
One thing I thought about since I first saw photos back in January 2020 (which is why I didn't opt for purple coin door because I thought it was too much). What if the cabinet art continued onto the coin door so it sort of blends in? Sort of want to do a test on a spare coin door
stock (resized).jpg
painted (resized).jpg
So I've seen at least a couple people who have worn into the swirly decal around the buttons so I decided to add some clear protector to make sure this doesn't happen. This is only .002" thick
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NH5E0Z7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00
The siderails come off with 3 screws, then remove the buttons, then print out the "button template.png" and cut it out so you can trace onto the clear sheet. I wrote "sticky side" so you remember which side should be up. If you're tracing on the backing, this should be facing you. When you print the template, make sure you print 1 to 1 (IE fill page, not shrink to fit)
clear_sheet_cutout (resized).jpg
applied (resized).jpg
button template (resized).png
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:I’ve never had one issue on mine and there’s 800+ Games on my machine.
Hope I didn’t just jinx it.
after about 10 games, mine finally starting having issues. Ball got stuck a few times, so I bent the end down slightly.. now it's a crapshoot between rolling back to the 3rd flipper and going all the way around the orbit shot. I'm tempted to cut the end of the rail slightly (and bend the loop down slightly) so it both has plenty of space to fall down, but also guarantees it bounces against a wall to slow it down. My only concern is that once I make any cut, it'll expose bare steel which means either I attempt to paint the end the same color as the powdercoat, or have it re-powder coated (which doesn't seem to be worth the cost).
Worst case I have the pinball life shooter mod as backup.
Made a few more tweaks.. adjusted the garage shot, the playfield was at 8 degrees so I lowered it back down to 7. Tonight my score went from 4 million to 42 million, what a difference! I was stacking multiballs on top of adventures, it was so good. I love how as you get deeper in the game you get more light shows and soundbites "LOOOooser". I have never loved a game so much in my life.
So started to install the pinball life wireform today, couldn't believe I saw the stock wireform with wires bent over underneath. I get every little piece added to the BOM adds cost, but two 1/8 shaft collars at 100piece quantity on ebay are a dollar (maybe you could get them for 25 cents each at 1,000 piece volume). Bent them as straight as I could and it was still difficult to remove, the holes in the playfield must have been undersized.
wireform_bent_over (resized).jpg
Was going to go ahead and screw in the tab mount, only to find the screw hole position is completely different. It's fine, I can drill a new hole but now there's going to be a hole showing (and I also want to take my time to make sure I don't mess up the side rail). If Terry is reading this, it isn't a knock (truly appreciate you making these). Maybe there's a reason he did it on purpose because if he tried matching the existing hole it would have to be really accurate (otherwise you'll have a screw being forced into position), but just know (at least mine) is not a 1 to 1 swap. I do appreciate he has threaded ends that go where the existing bent ones go. It's much easier to push through, and is easily removable in the future.
20210303_105723 (resized).jpg
Quoted from Rum-Z:My wire form came with a small bag that contained a black plastic piece and black screw that I assumed was designed to cover that existing hole, which is what I used it for. Did yours also come with that?
I wondered what that was.. yea I have it but I'll probably just touch up the wood with a sharpie rather than having a screw and a post for no reason.
Quoted from JustLikeMe:My machine was delivered today, but when I try and boot it I get stuck on this screen...
[quoted image]
Any ideas?
Edit - ignore, loose connector at the back of the cabinet!
I'm guessing the hard drive cable is loose and it's defaulting to bios? Hard drive is on the right side of the backbox.
Quoted from SpookyCharlie:The EOS adjustment matters a bunch. And there are exactly zero ways to prevent a knock down off the pop bumper that is 3" away. An absolute rocket shot in the ship loop that comes straight at a flipper will more times than not do the same. If a scoop kick out takes down a flipper, then you need to adjust your EOS. We completely fixed it on our test games quickly on this code.
That's why I didn't feel like this was a big deal, I don't know of any other game that fires so fast at the flippers.
Quoted from SpookyCharlie:Settings are factory default, EOS gap is wide as you can get and still make good contact at the end of stroke.
Good to know... My left flipper still occasionally sticks, guess it's time to open my gap.
Quoted from cooked71:That reminds me, I need to buy the ramp cover for that. Was playing on the weekend and the Ball was flying off that ramp at least once per game. Still don’t understand why that cover isn’t installed from the factory on new builds - has been an identified issue for months.
I bought that before I had my game.. played maybe 2-3 games, turned up my flipper power and went "yep, needs that cover"
Quoted from Aniraf:There is one interesting detail in the Hot Wheels implementation which neither of the Spooky games have. It has a large inline capacitor for the flippers. I had some initial issues with my Hot Wheels and ended up talking with Dave B. at American who had said that he was able to get a better flipper experience when running the power through that large cap.
I see a pcb with a bunch of giant caps in the back right corner of the lower cabinet of R&M, pretty sure those are for all the coils. Not having caps on the flippers would be very bad design not having something to buffer a giant surge of power.
Quoted from rockrand:I don’t understand my computer,i install a 16 gb card and my computer shows it is like 2.87 megs and I don’t have a option for fat 32 just fat, all was good before today? And thoughts
You usually run into this issue if you remove a usb stick without properly ejecting in windows. Here's the solution:
https://www.diskpart.com/articles/format-usb-to-full-capacity-7201.html
Quoted from PDX-Mike:Just received my invoice for #660 if anyone is keep score these days. Can't wait to finally get some play in on this one.
so that puts #660 shipped in about 4 weeks, and the end of production about 10 weeks or mid-june. i assume tna 2.0 will be filler to keep assemby workers busy but i would imagine we see announcement for the next new title soon?
Quoted from PDX-Mike:I thought they billed you two weeks before shipping?
You're right, I mis-read that.. I read "options" so that's actually potentially done by end of May. Seems like Spooky has the ability to create nearly everything in-house that isn't off the shelf playfield parts or components like displays, speaker amps, power supplies, etc. I think the control boards might be the only supply chain issue. In theory so long as they have parts, and have updated their production area for the next playfield they could probably start making the next game right away so long as it's been thoroughly tested.
Quoted from arzoo:Anyone here watch Solar Opposites (another Justin Roland animated series)? The plots are not as complex as R&M but it's still so funny! Season two just dropped and the first ep has a funny reference to a Congo pin.
I'm ready to binge. The pin has already been spotted on facebook
congo (resized).jpg 1 week later
Quoted from wayinla:wondering if there is a picture of the plastic protectors.
I always opt for plastic protectors, it's cheap insurance
20210410_215809 (resized).jpg20210410_215856 (resized).jpg20210410_215906 (resized).jpgQuoted from Flynnyfalcon:For anyone with previous Spooky experience, for how long did Spooky release software updates for past titles? A recent software release added another adventure for Rick and Morty, no doubt there are plenty of possibilities for content left, but Spooky's priorities will no doubt shift once it's next title is released. Any thoughts?
ben and scott both did updates long after games were finished in production. seeing how proud eric is im guessing if there are still fixes or modes he wants to see in the game, we will see updates after the game is no longer being made too.
Quoted from RobF:I have had my game for a couple weeks now and yeah, it is fantastic. Kudos to the Spooky team. This game makes me laugh like no other. I am happy to report mine did play really well straight out of the box. Of course the more I have played it, the more I found things to fine tune. It hasn't taken much to improve from good to great. Besides the typical ball guides and flipper adjustments, an area that I wanted to improve was the consistency of the ball launches. A small percentage of the time the ball would travel a bit too far up the loop and sort of rattle its way to the upper flipper which would pretty much kill any chance of a successful skill shot. Other times, the launcher wasn't able to get it out of the lane and it would roll back down for a relaunch. I did spend a good amount of time tweaking the launch wireform and adjusting the launch power settings. I could never get it quite how I liked it.
I ended up designing a little helper that replaces the black ball trap post that is installed on the rail. I thought some of you might find it interesting. Assuming there is interest, I'll end up adding it to my pinside shop and probably make the 3d files available on thingiverse. The current version is perfectly functional. The balls now land in exactly the same location and feed the upper flipper the same every single time. I was also able to bump the launch power up a bit, so balls get back into the game a bit quicker now. I am probably going to refine the design a little further and see about getting some purple filament [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
this is exactly what pinball life's aftermarket ramp does, but nice fix. I would only worry about the plastic deforming after thousands of ball hits.
If it were me I would do this:
* release this on thingiverse as-is (or you could post it on shapeways and make a small profit for every one sold)
* SELL a better version that adds a metal plate with a screw hole to the angled wall
finally got to moon men playing a game at lunch. Love it, it's so subtle.. I've said it many times before, sometimes it's nice to have background music that isn't high intensity beats thumping and someone shouting (every rock band theme stern releases). First time I played wizard of oz and played the "save dorothy" I was like "yes! this is nice, I don't feel hyped up, nice soothing music.. just make my shots, what do I have to lose?"
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:All this DLC talk had me thinking, at what point I’d be content with the finalisation of the code on R&M?... now I should preface this, I’m yet to receive my pin, but have watched countless hours of streams and played it a number of times at local haunts.
I think the game and code is bloody fantastic. Well thought out, well structured and exciting, though a few additionals would possibly complete it in my eyes. Now I'm only an average player, so I’d likely never get to any of these suggestions, but having them there hanging would absolutely drive me to die trying.
Vat of Acid mode: Random Inserts will turn green then fade to red (ie Morty is in the vat holding his breath turning red), shot needs to be made before it turns completely red. Then the next random insert will turn green, fading to red etc. Like Swifty, more shots have to be made than not to pass the mode.
Space Snakes mode: Haven’t got my head around how this could work. But such a great episode and deserves to be included.
An additional multiball would also be great.
Also a final, ultimate super dooper wizard mode. I can’t offer methodology behind how it would be shoehorned in, but maybe qualified via a certain amount of modes needing to be completed successfully plus Love Potion, plus a certain amount of megaseeds collected.
I haven't thought about how the mode could possibly work, but incorporating the dimensions would by fantastic. Having them randomly flip from one to the next, a complete head fuck trying to navigate the shots needed as the physical playfield landscape/lighting and sounds changes.
Anyway... maybe when I've got the machine, I'll find the current code more than sufficient, but all this waiting has me pining and wondering.
The code is pretty amazing. While I would love for it to continue to evolve, at some point you gotta call it done. There's only so much you can really put into a game, and there will always be new episodes. Not like I play simpsons pinball party and go "wouldn't it be great if it included that episode from season 27?"
1 week later
My flippers were starting to flutter last night, made shots pretty frustrating because you'll get a light tap and send the ball into an outlane. Opened it up this morning and adjusted the EOS switches like manadams showed. Played a couple really good games this morning without the flutter.
I just love how well balanced this game is, the 15 second ball save digital display, the pop bumper slam save, the somewhat easy to build up multiball, the meeseeks add-a-ball, the antigravity outlane save. You never really feel like you got cheated, there are so many ways to keep the ball alive so long as you know what you're doing.
Quoted from orlandu81:Something fun...one of the best features of the game is the custom call-outs by Justin Roiland. Does anyone have any favorites? The ones that I enjoy most require the swearing to be on full blast.
1 - I can't remember which mode, maybe it's Pirates of the Pancreas where Rick just curses you out for not hitting the shots fast enough. F-ing POS Morty, etc.
2 - At the end of a game, one of the call outs where he says you can get the keys to the "Jessica's Kingdom" and he's laughing his way through the line...that one always gets me
3 - My favorite might be the call out to start multiball sometimes. Disgusting multi balls everywhere...I find it so funny that it distracts me too much, and my battle mode score suffers. Yes...that is why my score is bad...not my skills, but Justin Roiland making me laugh, that must be it.
I don't know which mode I was in, but Rick says something like "well, 3 out of 10 isn't bad... Actually on second thought you really suck". I cracked up so hard I ended up draining from not being able to concentrate and I was having a good game.
Quoted from Dreadreaper:Can someone confirm it is safe to transport with the topper attached? Just in my SUV, not palletizing or anything. If not is it easy to remove? Thanks
I did not remove mine for the 150 mile trip, but because it's a sheet of plastic it was bobbing pretty severely until I wedged a starbucks cup in-between. I would bring some sort of packing material like bubble wrap, and maybe a little saran wrap to make sure it stays in place
Quoted from MikeS:We have at least 7 R&M's in the Madison, WI area (pop 250k or so) Lots of support in WI for our very own Spooky pinball!
If we're going by states though
california = 32
texas = 23
florida = 20
Illinois = 18
Wisconsin = 17
https://pinside.com/pinball/machine/rick-and-morty-blood-suckers-edition/owners
Quoted from PinBalt:Flippergate- Bushings, code, temp, springs, code settings, etc! Is there one concise summary/ recommendation on what an owner of R&M should do regarding the flipper performance?
I received my game few weeks ago and had to cover it up during my basement remodel. Im going to start playing next week but I am totally confused on this flipper issue.
Thanks
out of box it should play fine, you "may" have to tweak the EOS on the lower flippers
Bushings being lowered should help but it still plays fine.
Latest code should work fine
Temp shouldn't be an issue so long as you don't crank up the coil power (and at default with latest code it's plenty powerful for all shots, even the steep left ramp)
springs don't HAVE to be replaced, but it definitely makes it shoot better (and reduces the likeliness of fantom flips)
Quoted from razorsedge:Maybe we can still have boob world!?
Not gonna happen. On the podcast someone mentioned, Charlie said even though certain things are on the show, it's also "adult swim" and since machines are on location they are apprehensive with adult things being in public (people not into pinball don't understand operator adjustment to curb adult things), or even if they did understand they would worry that an operator would keep it in adult mode and someone would complain.
Quoted from Fytr:I'm hoping for a Save Summer mode as well.
me too.. My function is to keep summer safe, not keep summer being like.. totally stoked about like.. the general vibe and stuff... that's you, that's how you talk.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Aniraf:I fixed my plastic spring for the ship using the extra spooky sent me. I installed the new one keeping the nuts loose as recommended and I lowered the coil pulse. I’ve played 20 games and it is cracking again. This is fucking ridiculous. Someone must have a better idea for this thing.
Yes, buy my metal one
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/219#post-6139839
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:With that said, why are spooky PF thinner than the rest? sorry if that is not the issue, I did not read the rest of the thread.
I believe the better quality wood they sourced is unfortunately slightly thinner.
R&M is measuring 12mm (just slightly under 1/2")
Williams space shuttle is measuring 13mm (slightly over 1/2")
My Stern Jurassic park is measuring 13.5mm (far over 1/2")
Quoted from WizardsCastle:I had the game up precariously on a stool, and needed to get it back on legs, so I jacked a wood support from the front leg of another game, and out that in.
5 of the 6 screws went back in tight, so I'm hoping that will hold in place.[quoted image]
What is this loose connector over on the left?
loose_connector (resized).pngSo I decided to also design my own spacers that are easy to install. Basically just took the williams bracket and traced the exist pad. I slid a 4.5mm nut under the stock flippers and there was still some space so I printed some at that height.
Obviously adding spacers means less thread engagement. The bracket is 3.5mm, spacer 4.5mm, so you have 8mm + 12mm of playfield thickness. I had some 5/8" (16mm) screws lying around that worked great (should still be 4mm of space before you hit the top of the playfield). You could theoretically go to a 3/4" length but that only leaves 1mm (too close to the surface).
I loosened all the screws, took one side all the way out, slid the spacers underneath, tightened the new screws on one side, then pulled the old screws out of the other side and repeated (doesn't even require you to remove the flipper bat).
I folded a piece of paper 5 times (16 sheet thickness or about 1/16") and it still fit under the flipper taught so I know I won't be scraping my playfield.
1 (resized).jpg
2 (resized).jpg
You can see the difference between stock and flipper lowered, ball is way more centered
3 (resized).jpg
4 (resized).jpg
I found it odd they used 2 different screw lengths. I get that you really only need 4 screws on the outside, but then why even bother with the middle screws? I would worry about production putting the wrong length in the wrong hole.
5 (resized).jpg
Old outer screw vs the longer one
6 (resized).jpg
These are the screws I used: https://www.mcmaster.com/92470A196
Download the file here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4871429
If anyone wants some of these, I'll print you a set of 12 for the cost of shipping (should be $3). Looks like I'm short some screws so I'll probably buy a bag of 100 so I can also include screws.
Quoted from TrekTobbyGermany:I think the idea with spacers is fine. I even think it will last. Why not? It's just a spacer...
But I think your spacer is really too thick. Have in mind that the bushings will get play over time. If that happens they will scratch over the playfield. You really don't want this.
The spacers should have the thickness only of the difference between standard playfields and spooky R&M ones. Not more. That's the way and that will work for sure without side effects.
It's really not. I know the math doesn't work out (it should be like 1-1.5mm thick), but I looked at both Stern and williams games, and they are all 1/16" off the playfield and 4-4.5mm is the thickness needed to do that. If you want to go higher, you can always raise your flippers.. but if the post is too tall, you can't go any lower.
So I started to do the right flipper last night and ran into a problem. Both the countdown timer pcb and the acrylic lens overlap the corner of the flipper bracket. This is due to Scott cramming 10lbs of parts into a 5lb bag (bless his heart). As I was dis-assembling it, the acrylic goes down first against the playfield, then the metal corner of the flipper bracket goes over that, then the corner of the pcb goes over that. I don't understand the purpose of the acrylic lens honestly unless they are trying to distill the light (they left the protective film on). I left mine off and it looks just fine. But to that point, I had to add a cutout in one of the washers so the board sits flat.
While adding the spacers I managed to yank one of the cables going to the display, and another board on the left (both were hot glued and still came out because they are not locking connectors), plus I yanked one of the thin wires going to the right sling switch. Be very aware of what you're doing while messing under the playfield.
With that said, 24 screws to do all 4 flippers is going to add a $1, and if I do a small padded envelope I think shipping is actually going to be $4 so I need $5 to break even. I'll have 200 screws on tuesday.
1 (resized).jpg2 (resized).jpg3 (resized).jpg
Quoted from WizardsCastle:Someone needs to create something to go over the displays to keep the connectors in place. Already had to hot glue the top one twice!
Quoted from WizardsCastle:Anyone know why this is happening on the portal protector?
Do I need a raft, or need to change the heat on the bed?
[quoted image]
is that a brim on the outside? looks like your nozzle isnt close enough to the bed
if anyone has a standard edition and wants to add some purple I have no need for my stock ramp and hinges (replaced them with aftermarket). PM an offer, assume shipping will likely be like $15
r+m wireform plus hinges (resized).jpg
* edit: I'll sweeten the deal and add the spacers+screws and 2 cable lockdown in the box
Quoted from Pinzap:And in a single post, Scott brought the sale of any used games to a screeching halt. People will be holding on to these for a while now.
Maybe this is old news… I knew there was going to be a run of new TNA’s eventually with some tweaks and changes, but had no idea totally new code was in the works. But I miss a lot as I’m not on Pinside as much as I used to be.
I believe the new code will work on the existing games.. 2.0 only has minor tweaks (I think the LCD is getting upgraded, maybe some art tweaks).
Quoted from roth:#729 arrived last Thursday.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Thanks Kat and Lucas! (And everyone else involved!)
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Out of the box it played pretty well. I initially had it setup at 5.2 degrees because I set it up fast so my friend who helped me move it could try it out before he had to leave for a dinner. Setup like that the ball launch went too far, and it was very floaty, but all the shots could be made.
I moved it up to 6.9; could still make all the shots but they didn’t feel great. I backed off the angle a little to 6.7 or 6.8 and it feels pretty good there—has to play with the launch wire form a bit for a good launch.
Other than that EOS switches need a tweak; about to do that.Me too:
[quoted image]
I think I saw somewhere in this thread the recommendation to loosen the bolts holding the plastic spring/mount for the ship. Is the recommendation to loosen all 4?
Is your spring under your ship red too? I'm pretty sure everyone's is silver
Quoted from Aniraf:PM me if you would like to make an order without the 5/8ths screws and I can get that in the mail tomorrow, otherwise I have to wait
I didn't mean to jack your mod btw, I just think a giant X requires too much to be removed.. But my thingiverse literally has a link to the screw you need. Mcmaster has nearly everything you could ever need, and pretty much everything is in stock, and most things are in bags of 100.
Quoted from Aniraf:toyotaboy it looks like that site you recommended might have the screws I'm using too...they are more expensive than the places I've mentioned. https://www.mcmaster.com/92470A196/drive-style~slotted/screw-size~no-8/length~5-8/tip-type~pointed/.
Those are metric.. an M4 is probably an equivalent to an 8-32, but most people aren't going to have a torx bit either. If you really want a slotted hex screw, you want this: https://www.mcmaster.com/90054A196/
1 week later
Quoted from northerndude:It’s not meant to stop it, you have to finesse it out of the lane, give it a tap,tap,tap. I can fling that ball clean over to the left flipper
This.. also you can't sit there and lay on the button. This is what my wife does and it's not how it works. You're supposed to tap it so the magnet pulses it in the opposite direction.
1 week later
Quoted from WizardsCastle:Also, toyotaboy do you think your flipper spacers would work on the switches? I don't know offhand if the distance between screws is the same.
no clue, I would have to see how much they'd need lowering. I could quickly create a bunch of STL files of spacers in various heights, but someone else needs to test them (I don't want to tinker more than I need to). I could print each 1mm increment in a different color.
1 week later
Quoted from Aniraf:My stupid “plastic spring” for the ship broke again! I am not purchasing and installing another one of these! I decided to redesign it and I am very close to what I consider a much better design for this feature.
I am not sure if there is a market for an improved ship dangler thing, but I’ll be looking for a few people to test if anyone is interested. Just PM me so that I know.
I’ll share the design and how it works pretty soon. I just need to make a few more adjustments.
MET... AL.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/219#post-6139839
This is not a plug, I barely make anything off of this at $15. I made this because I saw how many were breaking, so I knew I needed one for myself.. And the only way to make them cheaply is to make a lot of them. I must have shipped 50 and have not had a single person go "hey man, your spring metal ship mount broke"
Quoted from BeeGeeMtl:Now that I appear to have most of the "you gotta fix this" issues out of the way in this game (at least I'm hoping), I've been enjoying it a little of late, even though it's still tough as shit. I love the show though, so it's worth it in the long run. I had a question for MOD-ers out there, what are you putting on your left ramp, to cover the screws halfway up the ramp? It kinda looks like a perfect spot to place a big head of SCARY TERRY with his mouth open over the ramp (ball goes through) but just wondering if a MOD company is making anything for that spot, or if you guys have anything there on your game? I have the cool ANATOMY PARK over the right ramp, and it's slick there.
[quoted image][quoted image]
I kind of love that idea. sort of like the skull sculpt on EATPM. I think modeling that up is do-able.
scary_Terry_ramp (resized).jpgskull_elvira (resized).png
Got a pretty good start, still need to model a hat. Test prints tomorrow.
scary_terry_sculpt (resized).pngQuoted from Zablon:Doesn't seem right without his ball chin.
Wondering if I could get away with a pair of balls that dangle that the ball hits without it slowing it down. I also don't like how the head is pointed down so I'm going to try to tilt it up.
Quoted from BowlingJim:Anyway you will be putting this on Thingiverse? I would love to print one.
You're welcome to having my first revision from 2 days ago. I've spent a lot of hours this weekend making tweaks, when I'm happy with it I'll likely put it up for sale if anyone is interested. I think it's very close, I extended the upper lip width so it looks like his jaw is wrapping around the ramp. It's going to be tough to fit a chin underneath unless it's flattened. There's maybe 3/4" of space under the ramp before it hits plastic.
I model everything up in solidworks (to get a really good starting point, and I can accurately make holes), then I import it into a separate program to add texture and pull things organically.
scary_Terry_rev06 (resized).png 3 weeks later
3 weeks later
3 weeks later
I sold about half of the metal ship mounts.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/219#post-6139839
In order to close these out (so they aren't just sitting around) I'm going to sell these at cost. $11 shipped anywhere in the world. If you're on the fence at all, buy now because I won't be running them again.
metal_ship_mount (resized).png 2 weeks later
1 month later
So I was playing last night, and my coin door decal keeps peeling more. Finally decided to just design a plate and 3d print it. Feel free to download and print your own.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5136133
decal_peeling (resized).jpg
3d_printed_plate (resized).jpg
2 weeks later
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