(Topic ID: 257850)

Official Rick and Morty Club - You are not like other carbon based life forms.

By TheNoTrashCougar

2 years ago

Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 16,966 posts
  • 635 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 hours ago by dts
  • Topic is favorited by 325 Pinsiders


Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

12C93DC0-F621-43CF-AFF6-B787925158AE (resized).jpeg
33F0A1A0-4EB8-46A3-A3B6-179FEE482D7F (resized).jpeg
E591E29F-D7F3-4FD6-BD5A-EFEA2EFFF577 (resized).jpeg
2461E9D8-EEB4-42BC-B8C7-653AEDA68BEA (resized).png
BF27D857-8A47-404A-962B-99177FC4FC72 (resized).jpeg
C3F7615D-2EDE-41AF-98AC-E9B101FAE5F8 (resized).jpeg
IMG_0231 (resized).jpeg
A6460614-ECE7-430B-ADB7-271176E4A916 (resized).jpeg
F705BEEE-684C-4EA3-8A72-88B8E0B760B0 (resized).jpeg
8FE123B4-5C4B-40D5-BE79-52A91F783FBC (resized).jpeg
51C18A16-D581-4FC6-A4E2-A30C1792DABE (resized).jpeg
88F39836-6A92-4B72-A7C2-0C974BA3793E (resized).jpeg
AEA7950D-C38E-428F-B4F0-06B82C26876E (resized).jpeg
0E14E050-2B14-4341-A434-7769F4073DA6 (resized).jpeg
IMG_1117 (resized).JPG
IMG_1115 (resized).JPG

Topic index (key posts)

84 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #256 Rules posted by Eric as of Feb 2020 Posted by epthegeek (1 year ago)

Post #510 R&M Options Posted by Morinack (1 year ago)

Post #589 Useful post for coin door comparison. Posted by NeilMcRae (1 year ago)

Post #637 More code rules - Adventures full lost Posted by epthegeek (1 year ago)

Post #745 Club thread reminder. Posted by TigerLaw (1 year ago)

Post #748 Cards for the game rules and what not. Posted by Coindropper (1 year ago)

Post #751 Darker outline for instruction cards. Posted by Coindropper (1 year ago)

Post #976 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Wireform ball launch and coil adjustment Posted by timmmmyboy (1 year ago)

Post #1006 TECH:Pitch recommendation from Scott. Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (1 year ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider thenotrashcougar.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#1 2 years ago

Time to get riggity riggity wrecked, Son!!!
As someone very passionate about this project, I wanted to be the guy to start the official club thread. This will get locked until the games ship, but then, it's on bitch.

1 month later
#208 1 year ago

I just changed the name of the thread to something more fun.

#280 1 year ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

As a fellow Station owner I gotta say I love the correlation even if it's accidental... but of course a man of Scott's sonic talents wouldn't have done that by "accident", right?

I just tweak sounds until they sound right. I get lucky most times.

1 week later
#1006 1 year ago
Quoted from garretswinning:

I understand level from left to right and pitch.but what is the pitch angle recomended to be proper

6.9 degrees.

3 weeks later
#1796 1 year ago

Hey Guys,
Yeah, so this rail adjustment thing is my fault. I put too many tabs on that guide rail which made it very stiff and actually bounced the ball off sometimes. Removing those 2 screws allows the rail to have a bit of flex to it and not bounce the ball off of it and cause it to rattle. I guess it could be worse. Spooky is making the adjustments, but all it really comes down to is removing those 2 screws. You do not need to drill holes or anything crazy. If yours is playing fine, then just leave it as it. Hope that clarifies a bit. I am still learning every single day on the best practices of pinball design.

Thank you,

1 month later
#2507 1 year ago
Quoted from hawkmoon:

Oh,brother!! I sure don't wanna have to "upgrade" any lane guides! You peeps just seem to take this as part of the fun?I say,I've had enough of trying to make a expensive toy work correctly! No,I'm not crying,or bashing,just a older guy who remembers what its like to buy a pin and have it shoot right out of the box!! For example,my ST Pre played perfect. My GB Pre needed a new standoff on right ramp My B66LE was a mess and My DPLE was perfect! So it seems to be crap shoot!The guy who designed this thing said he did NOT design these rails this way! He said Spooky changed up,no explanation!

Just to clarify what is going on here. Some people were having rattling issues with these shots since I over-engineered the guide rails to be too stiff on ball impact points. This was resolved by people removing a couple screws on the guide rail tabs on early games. Even out of the box, the game is great. I am not sure who you asked about the guide rails, but spooky did not change the rails on R&M from the CAD I provided them. The only change is them now removing the unnecessary tabs on the guide rails as people found it plays better without them. I can assure you that the team is watching and making necessary adjustments to make the game the best it can be. I am sorry you are not happy with your game.

1 month later
#3023 1 year ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

Fixed file for today’s build is up

I love you Eric.

#3125 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

So bumping my own post. For the owners, is the TNA sound random or is it really not the main theme?
In the video I watched recently the TNA song was not the theme

The song for the TNA dimension is Alpha Particles. That is the song that plays when Reactor 1 is running on TNA.

#3230 1 year ago
Quoted from BowlingJim:

Got a new mask today.
[quoted image]

That shirt is AMAZING!

#3299 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

Just confirming this is the Shaker to buy for this game? Or are they beginning to install the Shaker at factory?

That is the correct shaker.

1 week later
#3596 1 year ago
Quoted from monkfe:

who sells those protectors...very nice...

PBL has some things rolling off the line soon.

2 weeks later
#4208 1 year ago
Quoted from Kevlar:

I realised yesterday that the diverter beneath the house wasn't working on my machine, and never has. It wasn't disabled in the menu. I guess I'd never really thought about when it's supposed to operate, if I hit the right orbit when the portal wasn't lit I'd just get the ball back and I hadn't twigged that that's not what's supposed to happen. Anyway, the reason it wasn't working is the pawl clamp onto the diverter shaft ( it's basically a flipper mech ) had been over tightened and sheared. Luckily I had some flipper spares here to replace the sheared clamp bolt. The Mech itself seems overkill for the job, the coil plunger only gets to travel about 1/4 of it's available stroke, they could have used a much smaller coil. Actually it makes a nice change to have something overbuilt rather than under or only just powerful enough for the job.

So, I chose to use flipper parts on the diverter mech for just this problem. You broke a part on it? Great! You probably have spares in you pinball parts box! I try to future-proof my designs as much as possible to make them as easy to repair in the distant future as possible. Also, it saves money to use existing parts rather than design a new mechanism since you can get quantity discounts easier. You will notice the game also has 4 of the exact same flipper coils in it. Economies of scale!

2 weeks later
#4532 1 year ago
Quoted from MikeS:

With the lighting effects in this game you dont want flourescent protectors. They will ruin the intended effects. Trust me!

I would have to agree on this one. TNA was a different story completely because I tailored the software to do cool things with the fluorescent green protectors. On TNA, it did make the plastics look slightly more yellow too during normal gameplay.

For Rick and Morty, I chose to stay away from making a whole fluorescent plastic protector for a few reasons, one of which is that the game does a bunch more color floods and the green really wrecked the lighting effects. I chose instead to make slingshot protectors only in case people still wanted to add a small bit of extra color to their playfield. The clear protectors from Spooky are the way to go from the factory if you want to make sure to give your plastics the longest life they can get.

Here are the fluorescent green slingshot protectors I made. I had a bit of fun with this set too.



#4616 1 year ago

Taking off Eric's awesome pic. Make sure that the part I circled in red below is straight. If there is a bend in it (either direction) it will send the ball places it was not intended to go. The horseshoe should deliver the ball most of the time on the same side flipper. Sometimes it will get a spin to it that can affect where it goes, but that is what the cheap ball saver is for.

pasted_image (resized).png
3 weeks later
#5175 1 year ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Two questions to clear this up:
1. What did Scott sign your playfield with?
2. What did Eric do?

I never kiss and tell.

1 week later
#5486 1 year ago
Quoted from j_m_:

for those that haven't seen this game first hand, if you have the chance, don't pass it up.
the light show alone is worth the price of admission. the sweeping searchlight pattern for the start of the gromflomite battle multiball is by far the best use of lighting that I've ever seen. hats off eric and scott!


1 week later
#5784 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Out of curiosity...
The TNA soundtrack was available on iTunes. Will the RM soundtrack be available as well?
Love those Danesi beats, yo.

Since I do own the rights to all the custom music in the game, this is not off the table. I do plan on releasing a new album this year that will include some of the tracks that were used in the game on it. When it releases, I will spam it all over the place, so don't worry.

#5801 1 year ago
Quoted from ArcadeBar:

Lower right flipper going limp, sometimes taking two presses to flip, sometimes just flickering and sometimes nothing. I didn’t get any replies when I asked what coil power settings ppl are using but I sure would like any help with this cause changing the coil settings for it or the hold power aren’t doing the trick. Thanks for any help!

Flipper switch.

#5834 1 year ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Sharing some more thoughts on Rick and Morty now that I've had a chance to play more...
Short summary: If you are in on this game, you've chosen well. This game is so much fun.
-Some nuance on the thought that went into this design... The left bumper wasn't just designed and placed arbitrarily on the left (vs right), it's location allows the pin to be finessed as the ball hits it from the top to bounce upward to the right flipper to set up shots for the loop and garage.
-The dimensions create some interesting/unique moments during certain pairings. For example the fart dimension while pickle rick is grunting, or 3x right playfield during the Battle Dome mode.
-Chasing mega seeds is so addictive... I'm giving adventures way less attention than I should be.
-Scott's does some clever but subtle things with the music... When you play get Schwifty mode the audio acoustics change somewhat to make it more like a live performance.
-Looks like some season 4 references are appearing in the code - there was a reference to vat of acid in the mystery award.
A couple of things I'm trying to figure out:
-Does jumping from one dimension to another dimension provide any benefit vs returning to home dimension then going to a new dimension? I understand certain dimensions are deeper in the game, is their availability based on the previous?
-What does the noob noob target do, aside from the skill shot?
Is there any meaning to the different colors in the family targets or slam?
Why can't pickle rick be first?

I appreciate this post. There is so much that goes into designing a physical layout. I and others in the circle played the crap out of this thing and cut 3 whitewood versions of it before its "final whitewood" which still was tweaked for the better for production.

As for the audio, I did a lot more to Schwifty than it seems. I had to extract the vocals from the track and I completely reverse engineered and re-wrote it from the version that is on the R&M soundtrack. If you put the game in family mode, you can hear how the the word shit is bleeped, but not the music.


2 weeks later
#6229 1 year ago
Quoted from schwarz:

It seems to function well with only one washer.
More info on this from Spooky would be nice.

Well, this is not from Spooky, but the 3 washers on there was a mod people were doing to their TNA games to make the pop bumper ring sit higher on the playfield and get better action on the ball.

#6357 1 year ago
Quoted from canea:

Mostly this combined with the game being really fast and brutal sometimes. Wasn't meant to sound mean if it came off like that - He just got worked up but laughed about it later.
The game is really fantastic at sensing what you're trying to do and then roasting you when you don't do it. Like when it knows you're trying forever to hit the scoop, but can't hit it, it'll say in a bored voice, "Cmon, hit the scoop. It's right in the middle of the playfield" or whatever. On the flip side, it does compliment you when you're making shots. Great interactivity.
He keeps going back to play it though, so I guess he's a glutton for punishment?

At least you probably had family mode on.

#6360 1 year ago
Quoted from canea:

We do - and it's still every bit as funny.

Agreed. I like to keep the swearing percent at about 50%. The bleeps are just as funny.

#6417 1 year ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

I'm no programmer, or anything. Just a thought though, could this be some programming unclosed loop or mismatch... a leftover or whatever, maybe leading to wierd gremlins at next powerup?
Sometimes even the smallest wierd things could be useful, I would guess. Could mean nothing, but at least we know.
Could it be happening with every game with that code, and only a few people notice? ... is it processing a voice file? .... is it just man in the moon speaker noise?

You want the real answer of the one I made up??? How about 1 of each?

Answer 1: The vocal trigger upon turning the game off is because the switch boards are powering down just a fraction of a second earlier than the P3-ROC and the computer. The computer thinks these switches are being triggered and what you are hearing could be a flipper switch callout in attract mode, or the start of the service menu entry callout. I looked into adding a capacitor to the 12v line, since it powered down first, to prevent this on TNA, but decided it was dumb to add cost for something that is not really an issue.

Answer 2: Your house is haunted and Rick is subliminally trying to tell you to have a party. Jimmy werewolf is waiting anxiously.


#6418 1 year ago
Quoted from hawkmoon:

Its kinda surprising that Spooky is still turning out this title with so many little problems ! Thought Spooky would have a handle on this by now! Don't look badly on this post, just not the "tech guy" that most of you seem to be! Don't want to get my pin unboxed to find out its got bugs I can't identify, and can't play!!

You are probably seeing a bunch of people reporting back Beta code test results, which is why Eric took that to a more private group. That feedback does not really belong here. Other than that, this is mostly normal pinball stuff that I am seeing.

3 weeks later
#7304 1 year ago
Quoted from johnnyutah:

Is there a Rick and Morty Pinball soundtrack out like TNA to download or purchase? I want to bump the Underwater Dimension Music in my truck while I drive around so I can look super cool. That’s super important to me. That has to be my favorite of all the music on the machine. Cool to hear the nod to TNA as well.

Not yet. I am working on it.

#7430 1 year ago
Quoted from rai:

I’d like to have more indication when you collect a mega seed like a sound effect.
I love the end sequences hopefully additional ones can be added.

There is one. I made it sound like someone jamming a megaseed up their butthole. It is just not very dominant over everything else that is going on.

2 weeks later
#8055 1 year ago
Quoted from Jherre6:

Lastly, how loose is the fluble crank lock nut? I had to remove mine to change the post sleeves and I forgot to check before taking it off. It seems to tight won’t let the metal pole jump.
Happy Thanksgiving all!

The Flooble crank is supposed to be tight so the post does not move at all or you may damage your playfield. The energy is transferred in the form of a high frequency vibration to the captive ball behind the wire.

#8058 1 year ago

Clean the contacts of your pop switch with a clean piece of printer paper.

1 week later
#8461 1 year ago
Quoted from kermit24:

Not sure your play style, but if you don't slow the ball down R&M is much more likely to be brutal. Extremely difficult to have a huge game playing on the fly. Use live catches, bounce overs, etc as much as possible on this machine.

The game is designed to make you panic flip and it will punish you for it. You need to trap up as much as you can and take a deep breath, then make your shot. Its the same way I did TNA. These are the types of games that I think are the most fun. If you want to play it crazy, definitely just try and make shots on the fly, it will be insane.

#8553 1 year ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

I wonder if the audio for the callouts are compressed and normalized so they're all roughly the same volume to begin with.

They are compressed and normalized, but I will check on the "Like I care" one just in case I missed one.

#8575 1 year ago

For the glass rattle, I really love this stuff. I use it on my games at home.


I will look into an air ball eliminator for the right ramp as well. This is not a super common complaint, but it may be worth making something for it.


#8643 1 year ago

After testing a bunch of different scenarios, we came up with a cover for the right ramp on Rick and Morty. Here it is if you need one!



#8650 1 year ago

Just to clarify, this is not a Spooky product, this is just a mod. This will not be necessary for most people. I also made something similar for TNA to avoid ball traps. It is not necessary either, but available if needed.

#8667 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

That one cover alone won't stop the airballs. In fact, some airballs will hit that cover and be rejected.

Definitely agree that if there is a major issue, a ramp cover will not work. This is just a simple product I had in the works to help the people that occasionally get air balls jumping from the ramp. If you are hitting this protector on it's edge, the problem is elsewhere and that should be looked into.

#8724 1 year ago
Quoted from northerndude:

Anyone have the instructions on what to do when you perform a system update and get a brick out of it.
I've done every update since June and all the betas until November, never had an issue updating.
I turn it back on, does a little blip in the top left of screen, now I think I see a cursor flashing in top left corner.

Re-download and run the software update again.

1 week later
#9101 1 year ago

Hi everyone!
So I wanted to chime in on this as it has been asked to me many times now. The little adjustment holes are there to help get both flipper resting positions in the proper place. To adjust them, with flipper rubber on the bats, put a tooth pick in both of the adjustment holes and let the flippers rest against them and tighten them up that way. This is the way that I had it configured in all my Whitewood testing and the way I prefer it to be set. By doing this, you may not be able to backhand the right ramp from the right flipper, but I never meant for that to be possible originally. This may help out with the ease of being able to hit the left ramp more smoothly. Thanks everyone!

#9103 1 year ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

What if mine has always let me shoot the left smoothly & backhand the right? I love it that way!

Then you are good to go!

#9106 1 year ago
Quoted from guitarded:

Now ....
3 pages of Round v Flat Toothpick fighting.

Round. Problem solved.

#9107 1 year ago
Quoted from lapean111:

WTF is a flat toothpick?

It's actually a thing, I had some back in the day. Weird huh?

#9119 1 year ago
Quoted from vilant:

For those of you less mechanically inclined, who cannot disassemble flippers and grind down bushings in the time it takes to snap a picture (timed myself, 30 seconds)
I offer a quick simple solution....push the flipper rubbers down. Took about 10 seconds per flipper and works like a charm.
I know it looks obscene not having the rubber exactly in the middle of the flipper, but I assure you it has the same effect as grinding down a bushing to lower the bat. I'll leave it like this until the new bushings are made, that way I can spend the 30 minutes it would realistically take to grind down the bushings, playing Rick and Morty
[quoted image][quoted image]

Just throwing this out there, but that may cause air balls off your flippers due to the now upward angle of the flipper rubber. It's going to act more like a pitching wedge now than a 3 wood. Your mileage may vary though.

#9121 1 year ago
Quoted from ninjedi:

I noticed this on my machine when I first went over it (received it yesterday), and then saw it in your picture. The left flipper mech hits the EOS switch. On mine it seems that when the playfield is down, it doesn't affect it too much, but when it is up, the flipper mech and bolt head catches the switch and can bend it. This might unadjust the EOS if you are working on the machine and don't notice it.
I'm thinking of snipping a small bit of the end of the EOS switch off, so it only hits where it should.
[quoted image]

Don't cut it. Loosen the screws on the EOS switch, move it down a little so it clears the washer, and tighten the screws back down.

#9144 1 year ago
Quoted from OnTheSnap:

Hi Scott,
I can't post pass right to left, but it works fine left to right.
Do you think resetting the flippers to this position would address that? Really hurts in modes where everything on the right is lit and I can't dead flip it to the left.

Definitely worth trying. Post passing should be possible in both directions.

#9169 1 year ago

In engineering, part of the fun is that most changes to existing assemblies will have unintended consequences. You just need to think through and catch them. Anyway, I would just wait for the new bushing. That bushing spacer will not work and it is not worth the risk of putting a spacer under your flipper mechs, using too long of a screw, and ruining your nice playfield.

2 weeks later
#9673 1 year ago
Quoted from metallik:

That someone was me, and yes, they likely need replaced now. Look at the pawl where the tightening bolt is... if the two sides reaching around the flipper shaft start to touch where you're tightening it, it's toast and won't tighten again, have to replace. Keep the plungers if they're still like-new (tap out the rollpin) for spares.

Also check to make sure the flipper bat shaft is not gouged. If it is, it will want to go back to the position it was originally in.

1 week later
#9961 12 months ago
Quoted from snaroff:

After lowering my 2 bottom flipper bushings, the knock down isn't as common/annoying. Didn't lower my upper flipper yet and the knock down is more annoying...when I nail the right orbit/loop and the ball comes flying back at the upper flipper.
Question for people with other Spooky titles: Is the flipper knock down a problem on other Spooky games?

Knockdown was an issue with TNA early on because of the scoop firing at full power directly at the right flipper. I mitigated it with software, but I am going to have to try the lowering of the bushings and see if that helps even more. I know on my game it is not an issue, but the different games seem to all have different results. This is pretty neat and helpful to read what you guys are finding here. Thanks!

1 week later
#10321 11 months ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Listening to Slam Tlit today, Ron was talking about R&M being a clunkfest. I'm still waiting on mine to be delivered so personal experience is limited, but from the gameplay I've seen streamed, it doesn't seem clunky. The Garage shot and left orbit don't look butter smooth, but the rest look good.

Regarding the "clunky" comment. I think a bunch of people define this word differently and that is ok. Rick and Morty was physically designed to be a pretty tough layout. This game does not have any wide shots like a direct up the middle bank of targets, or super wide ramps. Instead, it has more smaller sized shots. By designing it this way, the game will force you to make your shots count. If you miss a shot, it will hit a post and now you are no longer in control.

My playing tips for Rick and Morty are to make sure to trap up when possible, take a breath, and then make your shots. If you panic flip, this game will eat you alive. Obviously, you cannot trap up every time, but you will get better and better as you play more and you eventually and naturally trap up less.

I just cannot bring myself to design an easy game. I personally get sick of easy shooting games very quickly and I feel a bunch of other people do as well. Part of the "one more time" factor is a game that can hand your ass to you if you deserve it.

I can honestly say I am very proud of how this game turned out. <3


#10324 11 months ago
Quoted from Groo:

I love my R&M and yeah it is tough. The feeling you get though to hit that garage shot, or to hit any one of the 3 shots from doing a quick trap/stop on the upper flipper, is awesome. It does sound a bit "clunky" hearing the mechs underneath, but I like all the things it does and that's even before the theme integration. Full disclosure I did remove the screw to the garage rail and moved it a bit, but that is the only adjustment I had to make. I did replace the flippers and post rubbers though.

Thank you guys for the kind words!

Yeah, the extra screws on the metal rails for the garage shot and the inner loop were totally a mistake on my part in the design. My engineering brain wanted to make those as sturdy as possible, but by doing so, it causes the ball to bounce off of them instead of them guiding the shots nice and smoothly through. The Spooky team is aware of this and they have changed to omit these extra screws and make the game play much better out of the box.

I am constantly learning all the crazy engineering challenges that happen in pinball machines that they just don't teach you in school.


#10445 11 months ago

The zip ties are a great (and cheap) way to quickly help with the rattle, but Justin at Pinball Life recently found some really awesome tape that I put on my machines and it works really well. It is a different material than I have seen used before. I think it is some sort of felt.


This was enough for 3 games.

#10462 11 months ago
Quoted from cooked71:

So is this in new builds going forward?

No, this is a mod for the game and not required.

#10473 11 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

What does this mod accomplish?<

Seems like it would be the opposite, replacing the loop at the end of the wireform with an angled reverse scoop to direct the ball downward instead of the loop at the end being the "catch" for the ball and hoping it drops down. With the proper coil power it seems like no issue but I'd love to hear more from the source...

Hey Guys,
This is correct. It is also reinforced. It will work at almost any coil power as well.

#10485 11 months ago

Hey Guys,
Just a clarification... This ramp that was posted today is a mod for people that want it, and is not at all necessary for the game to function properly. These are not made by Spooky Pinball and will not be put into the games. This is no different than a ramp cover or quiet fan mod.

#10486 11 months ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

When I had ramp issues I bit the bullet and just done one TNA style, it works great.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Also gives an unobstructed view of the Cromulon and right orbit!.
One of the things that really gave me the s#its, and why I did this, was the ball exit from the backboard after completing left ramp. Too often the ball comes out airborne with pace and kept bouncing off the end of wireform and would go up back around the right orbit and dribble out through the spinner. This changed the launch wire "adjustment" too sometimes, requiring a re-tweak again. It was in need of a solution from my perspective, the stainless ramp seemed like the go so I did it.
Works properly across a range of coil power settings, but stock value works 100% as well. Also clears 3 balls from the shooter lane without any going the wrong direction. It ramps up til 2 eventually pass together, then the third flies up at high power after that. The last ball at high power still launches the right way as well though.
I point this one out because I have had airballs go to shooter lane in multiball, and had the game with multiple shooter lane balls, you know ... pinball. lol
I'm very happy with how it works and looks. Just a proto though really of course. I should be removing it and finishing properly, but it gets played too much! Lol

That is definitely an interesting mod. Does it bounce around a bunch before getting to the flipper????

#10488 11 months ago
Quoted from mrbillishere:

All I've ever had to do is adjust the coil strength +1 notch because I had the incline pretty aggressive when I first got it. But the action was never inconsistent, and I've since changed the pitch to about 6.7-6.8 and still, never an issue.
Now, OTOH, if we consider my ability and skills... yep, issue. You could say that I got 99 problems but that wireform ain't one.

Exactly. This is not an issue for most.

3 weeks later
#11233 10 months ago
Quoted from SpookyLuke:

Great to hear! I do not recommend changing the garage shot. It's certainly a tough shot but I feel when its hit correctly it goes. Through playing them on the line I hit atleast one super skill every single game I play. I really do personally like the toughness of the garage shot and we have never changed the rail ever since day one! Just my opinion and it's absolutely OK to disagree!

I agree!

#11235 10 months ago
Quoted from SpookyLuke:

Has not been an issue and they have always run very warm! No negative effect ever reported! To my knowledge there is no increase in proportion to play time.

Yep, this was ran through a ton of testing and it perfectly ok! We wanted to run this off the 12v line for this game, which causes extra heat dissipation, but it is so far within tolerance that we decided it is all good. At first, I wanted to eliminate the all the heat, but running a switching circuit to knock down the voltage for the opto transmitters is just not cost effective.

#11236 10 months ago
Quoted from Rum-Z:

Thanks for the input Spooky Luke and Scott Danesi, I'll continue to play and gain experience with it as built. More game play experience can only make me better at hitting it, so I'll go that direction.

I am actually scared to play Luke on this game next time I see him with all the game testing they have been doing. I am going to get my ass handed to me.

2 weeks later
2 months later
#14143 7 months ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

I can’t figure out what is up with PinballLife, is it owned by Scott Danesi or does he work there or something? Even this game is weird, he posts all the time on the Total Nuclear Annihilation thread but never on this thread. Was there some kind of falling out with this game where he is off creating better parts but not talking about them? Maybe they are completely unrelated and I don’t know what I’m talking about.

Oh man, that is a lot of questions. OK OK...

Pinball Life:
I do not own Pinball Life, I am just the engineer here and I enjoy it greatly. This is my actual day job and anything else I do is outside of this.

R&M Falling Out:
No. There is absolutely no falling out with R&M and myself at all. It is the most insane layout I have come up with so far and I am extremely proud of it. R&M was built as a team effort by a very solid team of developers and I have full confidence in them. The reason I do not post in here very often is that there is so much going on here and I just don't have the time to keep up with it. I have created a few mods for R&M here and there that Pinball Life sells.

TNA Thread Activity:
As for the TNA thread, I did so much of the engineering, design, coding, sound, etc. on TNA that I am the best person to answer questions about it. I am also still actively taking feedback on that project and working on the 2.0 code update that will be able to be installed on all of the games.

I hope this answers your questions. I still love my R&M and play it a bunch.


1 month later
#14902 6 months ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

TheNoTrashCougar do you happen to have any suggestions for the Danesi lock 2.0 failing to eject balls stuck behind the drop targets? The drop tests work flawlessly, it is just an issue when the weight of the ball is behind it.

Make sure the brass finger is close, but not touching the target when at rest and the drop target is up. I would definitely try that first. If you are adjusted properly, then up the pulse of the knockdown coil in the settings a bit.

#14974 6 months ago
Quoted from Chisox:

Oooh great question man. I know Scott was doing audio for the next P3 game and while I appreciate Elwin games, Scott’s games are way more interesting to me and I’m stoked for game 3. Also, please run 1 TNA 2.0 for me before you start Halloween and Ultraman.

Thank you guys, I am not quitting pinball stuff any time soon. <3


#14979 6 months ago
Quoted from guitarded:

I've been wondering if just adding a wedge shaped piece of plastic to the back of the target, with some epoxy, would keep a ball from getting in there deep enough to jam?
Might just end up throwing a mini post in there, though.

Mini post with a 3/8 OD rubber on it would probably be best. You could also try and move the target slightly to the left a bit first.

Mini Post: https://www.pinballlife.com/1-716-tall-metal-post-with-cutaway-with-wood-screw-base.html
Rubber: https://www.pinballlife.com/perfectplay-38-od-silicone-mini-post-rubber.html


3 weeks later
#15408 5 months ago

Hey Everyone,
For you swapping out your right side stacked flipper switch, do not use the Williams high voltage one (SW-1010A-13), it will not work well, if much at all. That is meant for high current and has a bit too much resistance for the low voltage switch logic used in R&M.

Use this instead:

That is the same flipper switch as what is on TNA. Just cut off the capacitors.


#15415 5 months ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Can someone make this a key post for future reference?
Scott - I'm assuming that the Stern single contact switch would be for the left side then?


3 weeks later
#15869 4 months ago

Dumb question... You guys with heat issues... Did you adjust the vertical gap of your flipper bats using a flipper gap tool? This is a huge factor in terms of drag in the assembly. You can also swap out to weaker return springs, which helps as well. You will then be able to turn down the power on the flippers and keep them cooler.

Sorry if this has been covered a billion times. I lost track of the thread for a while there.


1 week later
#15942 4 months ago
Quoted from Good-Times:

The amplifier in R&M has an auxiliary output, so connect your sub direct to that and you're good to go!
[quoted image]

Just a quick clarification. That is an Aux input for the amp and will not work for a subwoofer. To properly put a sub on this game, just get an RCA splitter and tap off the incoming signal to the amp.

#15945 4 months ago
Quoted from Good-Times:

Hey Scott, strange because I'm getting a full-range signal from this and been using my 18" sub with it for months now.
(Edit to add: I see the specs of the amp say it's a 3.5mm aux input, but trust me, give it a try. It outputs for some weird reason. Maybe it's crosstalk?)

Holy crap, that would be crazy. We used this as an input on TNA, I bet you are totally right though and it is cross talking between the RCA and the Aux. haha! Thanks for the added info!

#15975 4 months ago

Do those LEDs ever come back to normal, or are they always that color? If they are always that color, I bet they failed and need to be replaced.

#15978 4 months ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Hey Scott, thanks for the reply mate. Been like this since day one. They mostly represent RGB as correct (to my eye), but white has alway been off. Messaged Spooky again, waiting on response. Their first thought was wiring, but I've pretty much discounted that.
Love your game btw!! Its my 7 year olds absolute fav!!!
Vid attached, always difficult to show LEDs correctly, but it should give you the idea.

I would honestly just replace them. I think it could be the LED chip. That is too consistent to be a wiring issue.

1 week later
#16046 3 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

I bought a set of Stern flipper switches on Scott's recommendation, but now realize it is too short for the right side.
Has anyone swapped out their switches?

You will need to pilot new holes in your cabinet for this. Do they fit otherwise? I recommended trying these as I had not yet had a chance to try them in my own game. The switches I recommended for you to try at the exact ones in TNA. Let me know how they work.

Thank you,

#16047 3 months ago

Yeah, that whitewood is pretty cool! You will notice on this one a few sharpie notes to myself on the playfield. I accidentally missed a playfield insert for Noob Noob. Along with a bunch of other differences I will let you guys have fun figuring out.

1 week later
#16093 3 months ago
Quoted from northerndude:

Having seen that "jankywood" is now for sale, I sure am hoping EP got his full build machine. Having the whitewood for sale is a bit scary terry that we won't get more updates. Just a thought, could I be very incorrect here.

Eric has his production game and has had it for a while now.

#16099 3 months ago
Quoted from Jigz:

Someone can correct me if I am wrong, but I thought it was this: https://www.pinballlife.com/p-roc-rgb-pop-bumper-board-assembly.html

That is the right one! I would recommend putting a 3/8 OD rubber rings between the PCB and the pop body to help dampen the vibration on each side. You can slip them on under the PCB on the pop body screws. Vibration is a killer inside this pop.

Kinda like this (I am a horrible MSPaint Artist):
pasted_image (resized).png


#16101 3 months ago
Quoted from DruTheFu:

Scott, by chance, would that happen to be a screenshot of the coming user manual?

I do not, I am sorry.

#16103 3 months ago
Quoted from guitarded:

Good Job!
I am going to print this out and put it right on the fridge.

HAHA! The worst part is that I know you are going to do that...

3 weeks later
#16230 87 days ago
Quoted from Palmer:

Mega seeds. As many as you can fit up your ass.

You gotta really cram them in there.

1 month later
#16605 46 days ago
Quoted from pinballM:

Is it possible to cut the bushing same as the new small bushing 1-3/8" from Spooky? if yes what would be the length to cut?

The new Spooky bushings are 1.366" tall, which is just under 1-3/8". If you are going to modify the existing bushings just make sure to cut the extra off the long side. Also, make sure to ream the hole out so the flipper bat does not get hung up.

#16608 46 days ago

Here are the proper bushings. We rounded the product description to keep it simple.



#16630 40 days ago

Also put 2 3/8-OD rubbers on the screw threads under the PCB. This will help isolate the shock to the PCB.



3 weeks later
#16754 19 days ago
Quoted from Svente69:

I found this LED in the cabinet.
Has come loose somewhere. A cable leads from the LED to the LED on the multiball. The single LED test does not make the LED shine. Only the complete test switches the LED on. The special thing is that it does not have a plug like the other LED`s.
Any idea where it belongs?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Yeah definitely not the pop bumper. It is a pop bumper LED though with the mounting tabs cut off. I do not recognize it at all. Maybe someone was making a mod on your machine to light the scoop?? Does the light stay white during gameplay?

#16771 18 days ago

I would be interested to see the serial number inside of the cabinet. It probably says AS (Adult Swim) in it. You can usually track which team member got these team games by that serial, but some might just be numbered. Unsure though.

#16833 15 days ago
Quoted from bjsilverballs:

You know how the lockdown bar can get kinda sticky? Mine has been sticky the entire time I've owned it so I've always just beat the one corner down. Yep. One beat too many. Sigh. Freakin glass everywhere! Good news is I'll dismantle the upper part of the playfield to remove glass and start making all the necessary tweaks.[quoted image]

Oh no! Making diamonds is never fun... Sorry.

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider thenotrashcougar.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside