Rick and Morty (Blood Sucker Edition)
Spooky Pinball, 2020
Rick and Morty (Standard)
Spooky Pinball, 2020You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider spelunk71.
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Quoted from Manic:2 or 3 weeks ago they still had #94 available. I missed that by a day. Trying to move up the list has become a challenging game in itself. Can't wait.
Same here. If anyone wants to swap places to help me move up the list (#507 BSE) let me know. I could probably sweeten the deal a bit.
Quoted from FYMF:I always feel like they sound more like "Clack!."
Petition to change name to Clacker
6CE7C78B-6342-43B5-BB66-AD8B3592912B (resized).pngThere was some discussion a while back about repositioning the topper so it sits an inch or two lower. Has anyone done this recently? Spooky folks: Is that something that could be done at the factory? Unfortunately, my ceiling is about an inch too low. 
Quoted from sthippie:Hey everyone. #533 checking in. Can someone post the dimensions in-box and out? I wanna know how much of my apartment needs to be dynamited to get this thing in the house next summer.....
Out of box:
52”L X 29”W X 76”H (without topper), 88.5”H (with topper)
I have a power sander on order to shave an inch or so off my door frame to get that sucker in (
) and am waiting to hear if the topper can be modified to sit a bit lower. Dynamite is plan B. Let me know if you have an extra stick.
Quoted from rotordave:Wouldn’t you take it in folded up on a trolley?
As it comes in the box?
Then it’ll be under 5’ high ...
rd
True, but I’ve got a height and a width issue. My ceiling is an inch too low to accommodate the raised topper and the doorway is exactly 29”’ wide. I think if I can sand to get another inch or so of width clearance it should go in just fine.
Quoted from Yelobird:I have a 30” door (29” open) in my game room and simply removing the door and popping off the perimeter door stops (the trim pieces the door closes against) can fit most any new game through. Door stops can be removed with a small pry bar or chisel normally held in place with small staples or Brad nails. Simple to put back on and no permanent sanding.
Thanks for the tip. The house was built in the 1930s and has some quirky construction, but definitely worth a shot.
Quoted from Cheeks:Sand an INCH off the door frame?
You know that you could take out 4 bolts from the head and rotate it slightly to get the game through the door, right? No sanding required.
Nah...only a half inch on each side. 
Thanks for that info, though I was kinda looking forward to breaking out the power tools (not).
I suppose I could just remove the head. I’ve done that on a Stern Spike, which is pretty easy. Anyone know how gnarly those connections are on Rick and Morty? The doorway is at the top of my basement stairwell so would be good to avoid extra maneuvering on the way down.
Hey Luke— Any word on whether you guys will be offering a lower bracket for the topper for vertically challenged ceilings (mine is probably going to be about 1.5” too low)? I was going to call, but I’m guessing there are others on the thread who could benefit from this option. Thanks.
Quoted from epthegeek:Here's something you could discuss: Anybody have ideas for good clips to use for collecting an extra ball (when you collect it, we already have the robot to serve it) or locking balls in the ship?
I've been over the show a few times looking for stuff and haven't really found the right thing. Found the slam save clip on one of those passes, but still don't have anything for those other two things though.
I don’t mean to add to your pain, and I’m not too familiar with the code thus far, but was thinking the vats of acid, season 4, ep. 8, could provide good ball lock clips. Rick & Morty hide in the vats to escape danger (each lock) and then come busting out to go on the attack when they have to, i.e., multiball time!
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Drums, PA