(Topic ID: 257850)

Official Rick and Morty Club - You are not like other carbon based life forms.

By TheNoTrashCougar

2 years ago

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Post #256 Rules posted by Eric as of Feb 2020 Posted by epthegeek (1 year ago)

Post #510 R&M Options Posted by Morinack (1 year ago)

Post #589 Useful post for coin door comparison. Posted by NeilMcRae (1 year ago)

Post #637 More code rules - Adventures full lost Posted by epthegeek (1 year ago)

Post #745 Club thread reminder. Posted by TigerLaw (1 year ago)

Post #748 Cards for the game rules and what not. Posted by Coindropper (1 year ago)

Post #751 Darker outline for instruction cards. Posted by Coindropper (1 year ago)

Post #976 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Wireform ball launch and coil adjustment Posted by timmmmyboy (1 year ago)

Post #1006 TECH:Pitch recommendation from Scott. Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (1 year ago)

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#7647 1 year ago

Do games with the butter cabinet get shipped blanket wrapped?

#7856 1 year ago

Just joined the club...#175. The pinball gods were shining on me...picked this up locally NIB. Spooky blanket wraps the butter cabinets to perfection. First time I've ever seen a "butter" cabinet. Really beautiful. The cabinet artwork is just stunning, and I like how it's unique on each side. Sweet.

Need to fiddle with the audio...sounds awful out-of-the-box (as others have discussed in this thread). Tried simply turning down the volume, but that didn't help much.

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#7912 1 year ago

Spent this afternoon solving my R&M audio issues. Solution cost $10 I purchased this spacer from Amazon and bought 4 2" screws to accommodate the spacer/cabinet: amazon.com link »

Installation is a little tedious, here are some highlights:

- The speaker grill is stapled with 32 small staples! Removing them was a PITA
- Needed to move the shaker board over to accommodate the spacer. Simple.
- Decided to move the amp and fasten it to the wood divider with velcro (the amp is ultra light). Might come up with a better solution later. Having easy access to the amp controls from the coin door made a HUGE difference, since I could fiddle with the sound while the game was playing. I realize my location interferes with the coin box cover, but it doesn't matter since it's in my home, not an arcade.
- Dealing with the nuts below the cabinet was a PITA. They kept popping out if the screw wasn't spot-on, which is tough since the spacer holes are 3/4". On a couple, I simple used a washer and hex lock nut. It's rock solid which is all that matters...will likely clean it up later.

R&M went from sounding like a huge fart/turd to sounding awesome (and I don't have anti-rattle tape installed!). The components they use are really nice, however it's clear the speaker/amp combination REQUIRE a spacer like this. Again, now my game isn't convulsing/rattling and I don't have anti-rattle tape! I will likely still install anti-rattle tape to better secure the glass, but it's no longer a bandaid to the audio booming. Glass rattling is now rare, as it should be

Hope this helps!

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#7917 1 year ago
Quoted from Jherre6:

Why didn’t you staple or screw through the screen to put it back on?

Because I wanted the MDF ring to be tight against the cabinet. The screen doesn't provide much protection (cloth, not metal) and it removes a variable that *could* contribute to rattling.

#7925 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Is it a 10"speaker? Havent got the game in front of me to check.

Correct...photos show this (see woofer label).

#7939 1 year ago
Quoted from bitternerd:

Can someone tell me how a spacer ring helps? I thought it was an air seal issue and this doesn't vent air? Not doubting anyone, just an audio noob.

It helps by putting 3/4" distance between the speaker "cone" (which moves/vibrates to produce sound) and the cabinet. I have PinWoofer audio systems in my Sterns and they use speaker rings and the system rocks. Not claiming a speaker ring is a "silver bullet" for the R&M vibration problem, but for me, it worked well in combination with dialing in the amplifier settings. For example, if you crank the sub/bass dials too much, the game will still convulse/vibrate!

My game is #175 and it doesn't have any openings under the cabinet (like other manufacturers cabinets). Apparently, earlier R&M builds had a couple air vents. That said, if air vents are the solution to the vibration issues, then it makes no sense that Spooky would remove them in later builds.

I haven't read every post in this thread...I know Spooky folks are engaged and often help/comment on issues. Would be interesting to hear from them on this issue, but I'm just happy my games audio is dialed in now. For me, audio is a big deal.

#7954 1 year ago
Quoted from gac:

Great post. I'm curious, though, as to why you put lock nuts on a couple of the screws if they were long enough to attach to the t-nuts. Just extra mounting security?

Thanks, glad it was helpful. The t-nuts busted my balls, since it was really difficult to see/feel exactly where they were going to connect. As the 2" screw was descending into the t-nut, it would either connect or push it out. Really frustrating. I noticed on Stern cabinets, they use #4 wood screws to help prevent the t-nut from popping out. Unfortunately, I noticed that after I was already frustrated I also don't know if I like adding 4 #4 wood screws for that purpose.

So...if you look closely, 2 of the screws are secured with washers where the lock nuts are required. I put the lock nuts on the t-nuts just for uniformity (yes, I'm a little OCD...they do, however provide more mounting security.

#7998 1 year ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

This lockup problem is not Spooky-specific. JJP and Stern have also had this lockup issue if the machines are left on 24/7 like on location. In their cases they both implemented a "maintenance reboot" that happens once a day to keep the machines from locking up rather than fixing the memory leak I believe is likely the root of the problem. I *think* Stern started this around Iron Maiden's release, but not 100% positive.
The common thread to the three manufacturers dealing with this? Linux.

Boatloads of smart TV's use Linux and they don't lockup.

#7999 1 year ago

Unboxed #175 5 days ago. Game is incredibly brutal, but it's such a blast. Just nailed the left inner loop and left orbit/garage combo...so fast...amazing feel. Leveled mine @ 6.9 yesterday as recommended...was at 6.5. Shots feel pretty well dialed in from the factory. For now, not going to pursue many of the tweaks mentioned in this thread. Until I get better at the game, it's hard to be critical of the shot precision/flow!

Really basic question (don't want to lift the PF or remove the glass for the answer). Is the saucer simply on a spring, or is there a mech that pokes it to bobble/bounce? Thx.

#8008 1 year ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

It's all about the kernel, baby. Also, SMART TVs in general have a much larger development staff than pinball. I'm just pointing out that these lockup problems happened with the move to linux by the three largest pin manufacturers, and on JJP were specifically tied to a specific kernel update.

I hear you. I just thought it was odd to blame pinball lockups on a kernel. What next? Blame GCC and clang? (both of which I've done considerable work on

#8009 1 year ago

I just had my best game (28M) and as luck with have it, the software flaked out during the game. When starting an adventure, the screen was blank/purple and the audio was silent. After 10 seconds or so, the adventure would start and audio came back. The adventure was playable, but the audio/video was hit/miss. When the game ended, same thing...rather than see the cool match sequence, the screen was blank/purple with no audio/explosion. Game didn't freeze/crash, but it was clearly very confused. Rebooting the machine brought the game back to normal...

Has anyone else seen this behavior/bug? Does Spooky have a bug submission process? I believe I'm running the latest build (2020.08.26).

#8013 1 year ago
Quoted from northerndude:

I think you want the October 12 build? Isnt that the freshest/solid one? going by memory here

The following link doesn't have any October build...am I looking in the wrong place?


#8016 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

The link is in a weird place, took me a while to find it when I looked originally. The spooky site needs a bit of help. For some reason many of their assets and stuff live on different sites.

Thanks! My first Spooky game, so just getting oriented. Much appreciated.

#8047 1 year ago
Quoted from RobT:

R&M is one hard MF'er! I've owned more than 50 pins since being in the hobby, and I'm convinced that this is the hardest I've had in terms of keeping the ball in play.

R&M just has the "it" factor. It's more than the sum of its parts. You can't point to any one thing about this pin that makes it so damn addicting. The entire package just comes together to make it an extremely compelling and unique experience.

Couldn't agree more. I thought AIQ was tough! R&M much tougher...

The VUK is so fast, the horse shoe is fun but brutal, love the pop sling, love the feel of the flippers. The only annoying tweak I'd like to make is adjusting the VUK to reduce the rejections. Some folks say lower the VUK (under the PF), some folks say bend the scoop? Are you getting annoying VUK rejects?

#8051 1 year ago
Quoted from rolandthoms:

I am having this exact same problem. Everything else is perfect. Frustrating when you’re in the middle of a great game. Solution?.

I updated to the latest software hoping it was fixed. If you've seen this on the latest software, I guess the bug is still lurking...

#8093 1 year ago

I unboxed my game 1 week ago. The audits claim I've played 411 games and my avg score was over 6M. Bizarre...neither of these numbers could possibly be true. I would estimate I've played 100 games (max) and my avg score is ~2M. I'm running the latest release.

Unfortunately, I didn't check the audits just after unboxing. Has anyone else checked their audits for accuracy? Sometimes with unfinished code, audits aren't fully implemented. As you know, some folks look at "games played" effecting resale value, so making sure the count is accurate is important.

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#8097 1 year ago
Quoted from MikeS:

I think this is typical. My guess is that they are imaging the PC's and likely not clearing the audits before capturing the base image off a test machine. I don't think its anything to worry about, I would just reset the audits through the menu. Condition is really what matters when selling a game, not playcount.

Typical? Definitely not typical on NIB Sterns (I've owned many). Not worrying...just think it's bizarre, since the idea of audits is to capture what happens on your machine. And yes, condition is what matters...no doubt.

Didn't realize you could reset the audits...thx for the tip.

#8101 1 year ago
Quoted from MikeS:

Typical on Rick and Morty I should say but not NIB Sterns. I got my game in June and it had over a hundred plays in the audits when I got the machine. I confirmed with a friend that received his game around the same time and his game was the same way. I just reset the audits through the menu so that the audits were accurate for me. It's not a big deal.

I didn't say it was a big deal. It was surprising. Just raising the issue for people that care about accurate audits.

#8104 1 year ago
Quoted from Edenecho:

Still concerning indeed, I know spooky indeed has good customer service but as we are soon over halfway in production i wonder why many of the same issues arise... maybe they are stressing the games out too fast from the fsctory, because corona ddlayed the schedule?

I unpacked #175 one week ago and I've been really pleased with the build quality overall. The game has incredibly strong "bones"...the PF and cabinet are exceptional. Tweaking shots/mechs has become part of pinball...for good or bad. Took me 1 month to "dial in" my Iron Maiden and Dialed In. I'm pretty happy with the way my RM #175 shoots out-of-the-box. Scoop rejects are currently my only annoyance.

In an ideal world, all the shots would be fully dialed in. Since this is tough to do apparently, I would simply like more guidance from the manufacturers about what tweaks they recommend (after the game is out for 6 months or so). In the old days, Stern would issue "Service Bulletins". Pinside has become the place to go for such tweaks, however there is often conflicting opinions. Would be great for the manufacturers to decide whose idea is the best and publish their opinion. For example, I want to reduce the number of scoop rejects, and would prefer to implement a Spooky approved solution.

#8112 1 year ago

Folks, the range of motion on the diverter under the house doesn't seem right (movement is less than 1/4"). The top photo is the diverter extended...doesn't come close to meeting the inner/spinner ball guide. The bottom photo is the resting position. If someone has the hood up on your game, can you snap a couple photos of this mech...or, if someone has already investigated this, please point me to a post. Thanks!

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#8122 1 year ago
Quoted from MikeS:

Do you get full range of motion on the topside of the playfield? Here's a pic of mine for comparison. There's not a lot of travel but the divertor on the topside is able to hit both the loop rail and the backrail fully.
[quoted image]

No full range of motion...doesn't come close to the loop rail. Is the photo you provided the diverter against the back rail?

#8125 1 year ago
Quoted from MikeS:

Yes. The photo is of the default position against the back wall. When engaged it closes off the loop.

Thanks...one more question. When it closes toward the loop rail, does the plunger move toward the coil or toward the stop. I assume the coil, however yours doesn't look like it has much room.

#8127 1 year ago
Quoted from MikeS:

Coil. It doesn't need to engage much.

If you look at my "engaged" photo, my plunger isn't even as high as your resting position plunger. Almost seems like something is blocking mine. When it fires, it makes a strange noise. Is your diverter noisy when it engages?

#8129 1 year ago
Quoted from MikeS:

Not at all. I would maybe try loosening the pawl and move it to a position closer to mine. Maybe it's binding?

OK...that's very useful information. Since yours isn't noisy and mine is, I'm sure it's binding. Seems like it's nearly impossible to dial this in without removing the house (given the mech and location). As you know, when dialing in a flipper, it's essential to actually see the flipper Probably the same for the diverter, since seeing it in action is kind of important. Hopefully it's not too much work to remove the house.

#8133 1 year ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

Mine was the same, diverter tip couldn't reach the spinner orbit guide. Left a half inch gap, not traveling there fully. I done some adjusting underside and bending topside to make those orbit shots both work right. My diverter worked, but the shot would catch no matter if for portal orbit, or right standard back thru spinner. Neither would complete smoothly before the tweaks.
Yes need to remove ramps and the house. Luckily for me I was doing that anyway to fit the protector.

Sigh. Thanks for chiming in. I had a feeling both the ramps and house would need to come off to fix this. Bummer.

Quoted from MikeS:

Removing the house isn't too bad. 2 screws on the left ramp, 3 on the right and then that clear plastic cover. Then I think its just 2 screws holding the house in place. When you have it off is a good time to look at your loop orbit and right orbit and make slight tweaks to make them smoother. I didn't make any new holes but the rails generally give you a small amount of play where the screw holes are to make them smoother.

OK. Doesn't sound too bad. Did you leave the ramps/house connected?

#8159 1 year ago

My diverter was installed behind the ball guide, which blocked it from actually doing it's job. Explains why it wasn't working and making annoying noise (coil plunger was bound). I was able to lift it over the guide, which enables the plunger to move as you would expect. Easy fix, but getting to it was a bit of work.

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#8161 1 year ago
Quoted from hawkmoon:

Were you happy to finally get your pin, and find out that.yes,its not gonna play new out-of-box? Justeverett can't wait to get his hands on a new pin he has to fix before he can play it, then tell everybody he can actually diagnose and fix all the bugs in his precious purchase!! AND,yes,I have one on order.my build #is 499! #500 already went down under!

Don't know "justeverett", so I'm not sure I get the point/humor. When you get your #499, you'll thank all of us who are posting problems/fixes so you can then fix YOUR "precious purchase"!

#8174 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinstym:

All the pics you guys are posting of pf adjustments are awesome. Seriously helpful. It would be even more awesome if someone made a video. Showing and explaining exactly what you are adjusting and why. Showing how easy or hard it is to get to here and there. How to remove the ramps and the house. What plastic is breaking under the spaceship, and what you loosen to try to keep it from breaking.
Pics and words are great. Vids are better. The go-to-all-tweak video.
I've removed the right ramp to adjust the feed to the upper flipper, and I adjusted my lower left flipper that was wonky out of the box, but I'm waiting for detailed vids before I get crazy.

Great idea. I'd love the video to come from Spooky. For example, Spooky has a YouTube video on adjusting the shooter lane. The benefit to Spooky is fewer support calls. Spooky support has been very responsive to me so far...really impressed. Casually mentioned the really rusty balls that came with the machine and they had new balls in the mail immediately (without having to ask for them).

There are so many posts about tweaking ball guides that it's hard to know if any of them apply to my game (#175). After lowering the scoop, fixing my diverter, and dialing in my audio, #175 is playing great. I looked at the ball guides while I had the ramps off (to fix the diverter) and everything looked pretty sensible, so I decided not to fiddle with anything.

Quoted from hawkmoon:

OK,but before I go,lets just summarize; Spooky hit a winner with this theme! Thats where it all started, and ended! Topper has to be "tweaked"to muffle offending loud sound Backbox has to be inspected for sneaky connections that are unplugged during shipping! Sound system is excellent,however,woofer rattles the glass, and there is no fix for this just "tweek" the glass Flipper fade and overheat can't be fixed, but a aftermarket product will "help' this unfixable problem Fan in pin too loud like a jet engine, not fixable, but replaced with another aftermarket product Legs biting into cab causing damage to cab currently being "looked into" by Spooky??Ball guide problems galore, diverter switches bad,gobs of glue where there shouldn't be, wires too short or loose, washers found loose in cab bottom,then, when some of you finally get to boot up.nothing works, so you have to start all over again to see if you missed a loose connection!! Yes,some of this is common in new pins I agree, but this is getting worse not better!! It really bothers me to be so negative about something I really wanted, but its all too much for me as a causal owner to have to contend with for 9K! Have fun,B safe!! Good-bye,and yes,I hear you,and good riddence!!

I've "fixed" 3 things with #175 (diverter, scoop, audio) and the effort was far less than NIB games I've dealt with from Stern/JJP. Not saying Spooky shouldn't try and improve, but your analysis is way too negative. The love and passion that Scott, Eric, and the entire team put into this game is oozing. I realize that reading all this stuff may make you nervous...I get it. Rather than vent/worry, wait until the game arrives and make your own decision! This game will be a hot item for a LONG time. It's not just about the modern/cool theme...it's one of the rare games that fires on all cylinders. I have no doubt it's going to be highly sought after classic. The only problem is, it's one of the most difficult games I've ever owned. For some people, this will be a turnoff.

#8182 1 year ago
Quoted from RobT:

Is there a solution to the destruction of the post sleeves? They take a beating. Are there other, strong alternatives that actually fit?[quoted image]

Mine (#175) has black posts...I hear they switched because of the wear on the translucent. I notice that the black are very loose fitting...they move really easily. Wonder of movement would cause them to wear more quickly. Were these loosely fitted? Curious.

#8186 1 year ago
Quoted from northerndude:

No, don’t use a spade bit for that, you won’t be happy with the results. Rarely do those make a nice circular hole.
You’ll want to use a proper hole saw for that job.
Mine has the ports cut in from Spooky
Here’s mine from bottom view. (Yes I removed the speaker “grill” cover). Just a hair under 2” port holes[quoted image][quoted image]

I don't see any reason to cut holes in the cabinet for the sake of improving the audio. The only opening I have is in the rear/back of the cabinet...near the fan. The assertion that the cabinet is "air tight" and that's why the vibration is awful isn't what I've experienced. The 3/4" ring and adjustments to the amp is all I needed to solve the problem. Would be interesting for Spooky to explain the change to the cabinets.

#8189 1 year ago
Quoted from rai:

IMO this game is better than it looks. I think the price creep is real, meaning it was a $7K (base) but very easy to get to $8300+
And somewhat $8K+ is a lot of money but imo it’s so worth the price. I know a lot of folks *don’t* like it but if you click with it it’s so much fun. I think it’s a pin that has a few problems but more than makes up for it by the fun to play.

If you load it with all the options, it weighs in at $9500 (including shipping). I don't know how many are being shipped outside the US, but even if it's only 250, that leaves only 500 for this country. The license and the addictive play are going to make this a big hit. All the kinks will get worked out and the software will continue to evolve. Sure, it won't be universally loved, but that's to be expected.

#8216 1 year ago

Yesterday, noticed a quite a few right orbit shots were bricking on the clear/left post right above the head (part of the u-turn lane). I believe the ball is likely slightly airborne and striking the shooter wireform, then bouncing left (into the u-turn lane post).

You can see how close the ball is to the default location of the wireform. I put a small rubber underneath to raise the wireform. No video proof this is the cause of the clunky right orbit shots, but I know it can't hurt since the shooter still works fine with the slightly higher pitch. Will play a bunch today to see if it fixes it.

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#8226 1 year ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Did you change the curve of your orbit?

Nope. Haven't fiddled with any guides, since most of the shots are pretty smooth. Do your right orbit shots brick at the post on the left occasionally? Really hard to know if this is by design or not. With the fancy u-turn built-in to the orbit, it might be impossible to prevent? Might simply depend on where the ball starts on it's orbit path.

#8249 1 year ago
Quoted from BeeGeeMtl:

I appreciate you trying to help but I don't know what an EOS switch is, or where to find or whether to know if it's "engaging too soon" or what a leaf switch is. I'm basically a guy who just bought a new car but has no idea how it works or how to fix it, which is probably the difference between some owners in this thread being somewhat miffed at all the stuff they need to fix and those who understand how pins work and how to fix them. It's kinda frustrating for us newbies. Usually you're not asked to work on your engine after you purchase a $10k car, but alas, I love Spooky and wanna support them but this can get frustrating. I think some people in this thread need to be a little more patient with newbies like myself. We're not all techies. I just bought the game because I love playing pinball and loooooove Rick & Morty.

I sympathize. I bought my first game (Lord of the Rings) in 2004 and was too busy and uninterested in even taking the glass off and lifting the PF Fortunately, I bought from a local distributor that fixed the one minor NIB issue I had. Unfortunately, most games have more issues out-of-the-box "issues" than those days, so people who have been in the hobby for awhile are experienced at popping the hood and digging into problems from day 1.

Assuming you didn't buy from a local distributor, have you looked into local pinball repair people in your area? Seems like that's the best solution for someone brand new with such a high value game. Since home collections are booming, pinball repair jobs are on the rise. I'm pretty self sufficient, but I know people in my area to call if I had issues that were beyond my experience level.

Not saying Pinsiders can't help resolve your issue, but I think finding some local help would be prudent. I guess another option is to join local pinball groups and get a local collector/enthusiast to help you.

#8251 1 year ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

The gap does make a difference but mostly with knockdowns, as far as I'm aware.
If the flipper is up and switch closed, a ball deflecting the flipper won't cause a re-energise until too late when the EOS switch activates too early.
My game was unplayable before adjusting, could barely trap, horseshoe shots would cause a held up flipper to collapse.
Fixing the EOS setting solved all this for me.

I've been getting that unusual behavior where the ball hitting an extended flipper causes it to retract. Is that what you are saying you've fixed?

Any additional info (or photos) or links would be great. The ball knocking down my flipper hasn't been a huge issue so far, but would be nice if they were more resilient to the ball hitting them. Never experienced this on any other games.

#8258 1 year ago
Quoted from kermit24:

Wow lots of detail here. I appreciate the time it took you to write this up, but this should absolutely not be needed for an $8K+ pinball machine.

It isn't needed. 7 days ago, I posted a really simple solution that worked great for me (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/159#post-5975793). From my perspective, the audio system provided by Spooky is first rate...it just needed to be dialed in! Replacing the amp to solve the subwoofer issue is nonsense.

My RAM audio system sounds AWESOME...have it currently set on 11...not 2! As good as PinWoofer systems, which I have in many of my games.

#8261 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Except your solution is a pain to implement and doesn't resolve the fact that the current amp (at least mine) can not be used to adjust the levels on the sub anything past "just on"... it just isn't right and I'm anal enough to not live with "just isn't right". Plus it's not the sub that's causing the issue, it's the thing driving the sub to that level.

Trust me, when it comes to audio, you ain't more anal than I am. My cars, my homes, and my pins have the best f-ing audio on the planet. Won't bore you with the details...don't want to get into a pissing match with you!

Pain to implement? $10 and 2 hours? That's a pain? You clearly don't know what you are talking about, sir.

As I said above, "My RAM audio system sounds AWESOME...have it currently set on 11...not 2! As good as PinWoofer systems, which I have in many of my games."

#8263 1 year ago
Quoted from brerspidur:

I'll say that the previously linked felt tape on the glass got rid of about 80% of my Rattle, although it did take 2 layers. The glass fits very snug now. The pinnovaters sub ring got rid of another 15%. I tweaked some of the amp settings, but they are not turned all the way down. I can listen at pretty loud volumes with great bass, and nearly any rattle

Not surprised. My experience was the 3/4" ring I installed from Amazon with tweaks to the amp settings got me 80%...was very playable. Today I installed anti-rattle tape from PinWoofer and it got me the last 20%. The game sounds f-ing AWESOME now...best stock audio in ANY GAME I'VE EVER OWNED.

#8282 1 year ago
Quoted from Our_Man_in_Oz:

No point really in putting in a spacer kit if the sub just isn't blending properly with the rest of the audio, since it's actually too loud to begin with due to the difficulty of getting the settings to well blended level.

Well, the spacer helped solve my vibration issues. At the moment, RAM sounds as good as any of my PinWoofer enhanced games (and I'm a big fan of Dan's PinWoofer product...was an early adopter).

Stock Stern speakers have no spacers since the stock speakers are dirt cheap and the system is awful/underpowered. PinWoofer adds spacers since the better speakers/amp demand it. I believe this is true for RAM as well. The backbox speakers have nice spacers and sound great. It's a shame Spooky doesn't have a spacer for the sub, but it was cheap and straightforward to add. The bigger shame is Spooky did do a great job on the audio setup, but the out-of-box experience is arguably crappy. For audio aware folks, not a big deal. For newbies and folks that don't have time to fiddle, it's a darn shame!

#8285 1 year ago
Quoted from Good-Times:

If the spacer is helping there are two reasons for this; either it’s stopping the woofer’s surround from hitting the grill, in which case you could just remove the grill, or it’s decoupling the woofer from the cabinet, in which case a felt or EVA foam gasket will do the same.

Exactly, but I believe your second reason (decoupling) was much more important. I'm sure there are other products that can do the same...3/4" MDF might be overkill for this application, but it worked great for me and was priced right ($10). The Pinnovators product will do the job as well, I'm sure.

#8291 1 year ago
Quoted from Fytr:

Yes, my legs were fine out of the box. I do have a set of felt mounts on just because I had them but they wouldn't be necessary.

I unboxed 10 days ago. I was unaware of the issue until reading this thread a few days ago. The butter decals are slightly crimped on the left sides. All my legs are fine on the right side of the legs. I took PinMonk recommendation to put a nylon spacer between the leg/cab...leg still seems to be touching the cabinet.

Considering all the care Spooky takes with the metal leg protectors and blanket wrapping, it's unfortunate that something as simple as legs could be defective. Oh well. Emailed Spooky support to see what they suggest. Considering the high cost of the butter cabinet, really want to prevent any further damage!

IMG_2756 (resized).jpegIMG_2757 (resized).jpeg
#8292 1 year ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

It’s official... I suck at pinball!

Yep. I fired up a game and got 10M this morning and felt good Yesterday, I had quite a few 1 minutes games where I scored 1M or less. Just brutal. I consider myself an above average player and have played in Florida and SoCal tournaments with some pretty good players. This game is just killing me, but I love it! I'm not giving up...

#8327 1 year ago

Rules question: I just had my best game thanks to a strong Pickle Rick adventure (35M). I rarely get Pickle Rick. What's the algorithm for determining when/if you get Pickle Rick? How are the adventures selected? If it were purely random, I think I'd see Pickle Rick more often...

#8333 1 year ago
Quoted from pmppk:

Butter decals? Isn't the butter artwork supposed to be directly printed onto the wood, meaning no decals at all?

Don't believe so. I believe butter decals are similar in spirit to Mirco "Rad Cals"...very thick, very glossy decals that are layered/glued to the cabinet. The leg indentations clearly show the artwork isn't directly printed onto the wood...wood doesn't ripple like that

#8335 1 year ago
Quoted from brerspidur:

Never mind, I figured it out pretty simple just remove both ramps and then it's two quarter inch screws
On a good note, was able to confirm I spent suspicion that might diverter was not working correctly as posted previously in the thread, just had to lift it up and over so it had full range of motion
[quoted image]

I fixed the same exact problem over the weekend (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/164#post-5984455).

Spooky support said they would tell the build folks, since accessing the diverter is a PITA.

#8342 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Butter cabinets are directly screen printed (or digital, not sure) to the cabinet and then clear coated.
The leg indentations are the same problem as pooling on Playfields. They can be also flattened with heat, like pooling on Playfields.

If that's true, WOW. Even more respect for the craftsmanship that went into the cabinet! I guess it would explain the cost as well. Don't recall who told me butter was based on RadCal-like technology. Thanks for the clarification!

#8343 1 year ago
Quoted from kermit24:

Wonder how it passed the play test with the diverter not working?

Play testing isn't even required to find the diverter issue...test mode would uncover the very audible plunger binding.

I doubt much play testing is done, since then people would freak out over a NIB game with a few dimples.

#8398 1 year ago
Quoted from arzoo:

Anyone have a suggestion on how to reduce the center scoop rejects? I'd say one out of three direct shots will reject. I've tried bending the scoop lower and higher. Higher made it worse. Lower maybe helped a bit. I've also tried adding a small felt pad but that made it much worse. I feel like the problem is the ball hitting the back of the scoop and then then leading metal edge. Adding washers to lower the metal below the wood would probably solve the problem, but then the wood would take a beating. Maybe a cliffy instead? This is the last thing I need to resolve to get the pin really dialed-in nicely.

I lowered it with washers and it totally solved the problem...didn't bend anything. The metal is totally level with the wood, which means the wood WILL NOT take a beating. It's really pretty straightforward. Before leveling the scoop, I had 6 of 10 rejects. Now it's 1 of 10.

#8399 1 year ago

So when I'm in "switch test mode", and extend the lower flippers, EOS fires (as you would expect). When I extend the upper flipper, no EOS fires. Normal?

#8401 1 year ago
Quoted from arzoo:

So you're saying the metal is even with the inner sloped edge of the playfield, no lip at all? If the pf edge is not taking a hit then I'll give this a try. Thanks.

Before/After. As you can see, the "after" front scoop is still slightly over the lowest point of the wood bezel. The wood is still fully protected. If the scoop is lowered too much, the wood might be in danger of getting nicked. Like any pinball tweak, takes a little finesse, but I'm convinced this is the right solution.

When the scoop is protruding out (like in the before photo), it's like narrowing the hole considerably. The bezel helps make the shot more forgiving.

IMG_2748 (resized).jpegIMG_2813 (resized).jpeg

#8404 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

There is no EOS on the upper flipper.

Thanks for the response. There is an EOS switch on my upper flipper mech, but it's not wired up.

#8405 1 year ago
Quoted from Coyohtay:

How thick/many washers did you add?

I added a fairly thick plastic washer I got at ACE hardware (they have a ton of washers). Metal washers are too thin and doubling them up would be too thick.

#8408 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Well, that's weird. Sounds like someone might have grabbed the wrong flipper assembly.

Who knows...photo that shows the unwired EOS.

IMG_2814 (resized).jpeg
#8458 1 year ago

I closed my right outlane a few days ago...didn't reduce the brutality of the drains one bit. I haven't played my JP2 in a couple weeks...just played it and it felt so easy when compared with R&M (10-15 minute game). My R&M games seem to last 1-2 minutes

#8463 1 year ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

The game is designed to make you panic flip and it will punish you for it. You need to trap up as much as you can and take a deep breath, then make your shot. Its the same way I did TNA. These are the types of games that I think are the most fun. If you want to play it crazy, definitely just try and make shots on the fly, it will be insane.

You and kermit24 nailed me...I'm definitely more of an "on the fly" type of player, and end up panic flipping! As you say, it's insane (actually feels like the game is attacking me I've actually never had a game humiliate me quite like RAM! This feedback really helps...I'll have to try a different approach...more trapping and breathing! Despite the abuse, you know I love the game and won't give up until I "get it".

#8496 1 year ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

P.S. To those folks complaining about build quality and shot geometry, I don't see it. I got to play #49 in DC in February, and this one shoots better. Only complaint I have is the glass rattles out of the box, but that's an easy adjustment. Anyone local (Maryland) concerned about build quality is welcome to check it out, just PM me.

Mine is #175 and I'm impressed with the build quality. Best PF and cabinet (butter) I've ever owned. I only had to fix 3 things...lowered the scoop, fixed my diverter (that was installed behind the ramp), and dialed in the audio to stop rattling/convulsing. Now that the audio is dialed in, it's also the best sounding stock audio I've ever heard (and I've owned quite a few over the years).

It's really an impressive achievement. Best theme integration EVER...amazing collaboration with the Rick and Morty creators.

#8517 1 year ago

Shit...just nailed the left ramp with the left flipper (didn't know that was possible) and followed it up with a clean left garage shot. Rewarding combo...

One suggestion for epthegeek. I nailed the inner left loop 5-6 times and was surprised there were no clever callouts to recognize the accomplishment

In general, the callouts are just amazing...obviously a minor suggestion (since I think looping is going to be common/fun).

#8564 1 year ago
Quoted from mariobeans:

I need those plastic covers asap. My airballs are INSANE!
Balls are hitting my roof!

That's odd...I have practically no airballs on this game. Have you fiddled with flipper adjustments or settings?

#8776 1 year ago
Quoted from BeeGeeMtl:

WOW! I honestly would have never guessed that. You can't even see the holes from the front, so odd that Spooky doesn't make it more obvious or AT LEAST put a picture up on their website, pointing it out. Would save newbies a lot of headaches. Thanks for pointing this out.

The other odd thing about the location is my USB stick barely fit (not much clearance on the bottom and really hard to see). IIRC, the USB ports on on the top in Alice Cooper, making it easier to insert/access.

#8777 1 year ago
Quoted from Fytr:

This approach to controlling the flippers is a sore point for me. I assume it is how the PROC boards operate?
It means that there is no chance to quickly flutter the flipper button to get a lite tap on the flipper, it always fires full strength/duration. I am able to do this all the time on my new Stern's (and classic Sterns, obviously). It's like playing with digital vs analog buttons and I feel that it's actually pretty detrimental to refined/advanced play.
I'd love to hear more about this topic though.

Me too (would love to hear more). Might be contributing to why I suck so bad, since I'm use to Stern flippers (and have had difficulty adapting to these flippers).

#8812 1 year ago

My "stock" flipper positions below. The left flipper is "off", which I believe makes my right orbit shot a bit tougher than it should be. Plan on dialing it in soon...adjusting flippers is always a PITA.

As far as flipper coils strength is concerned, I've never changed them, however my settings aren't on the default values. For example, my lower right flipper is set at 45 (max is 50). I imagine they were changed at the factory? What are yours set at?

IMG_2853 (resized).jpeg
#8826 1 year ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

I was thinking I’d have to tighten the outlanes after getting destroyed last night.

I closed the left outlane a few days ago and it's still brutal.

#8837 1 year ago
Quoted from RobT:

The left outlane or the right one?
I closed my left outlane from factory and it made a big difference. The right one? Not so much. Still brutal.
And I still love it!

Thanks for the correction...I closed the right outlane (oops). I didn't touch the left, since it hasn't been a problem for me.

#8856 1 year ago
Quoted from metallik:

Make sure you have a spare pawl for that side. The WMS pawls they use will only tighten so many times, then the clamp area is too stretched to fully clamp on the flipper shaft.

Thanks for the tip! Question: My lower/right flipper is cranked all the way up to 45 (I didn't do it...seem to come that way from the factory). I noticed the EOS switches don't appear dialed in (i.e. the switch is activating before the end-of-stroke). I imagine this has the effect of lowering the flipper strength? Hoping that adjusting the EOS will give me some more strength to make the left ramp.

#8859 1 year ago

Since updating to the latest code, my portal ball eject behavior has changed. Before the update, as soon as the ball entered the portal, it would eject the ball waiting in the Portal trough. Now, the ball enters the portal, travels down the trough, and then the ball waiting ahead of it is ejected.

Are other folks seeing this? If not, I guess something could need tweaking on my machine?

#8880 1 year ago
Quoted from arzoo:

The left ramp left screw is shorter by necessity; a longer screw would protrude into the subway and prevent the ball from moving past. I learned this the hard way when I replaced the screw with a larger one to match the right and then I'm like why is the pin searching for a ball, wtf? As for the pre-drilled holes at the bottom of the ramp, neither of my ramps use those holes and they seem too large anyway.

I did the same thing (added a larger screw to the left ramp) when I had the ramps off to fix a diverter issue.

#8883 1 year ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

Check your subway switch and your portal trough switches.

Looks like a damaged crimp point on the black wire might be the culprit. Odd that it worked for a couple hundred games or so and then decided to misbehave.

IMG_2867 (resized).jpeg
#8921 1 year ago

Originally leveled my game at 6.9 (per Scott's suggestion IIRC). Too brutal for my skill level. Dropped it to 6.7 a couple weeks ago and didn't notice much difference...still too brutal. Just dropped it to the traditional 6.5 and I'm having much more success. Left ramp is more achievable, speed overall is more manageable. After only 2-3 games at 6.5 got my new high score of 40M. Much happier...I gravitate toward more challenging games, but can't keep up with R&M at the more aggressive angles. YMMV.

#8926 1 year ago
Quoted from rai:

I have a hard time with R&M magna save, I thought it wasn't working, but now and then I press it just right and I do notice its effect. I think it's a lot more subtle than say SOR where it's a big all or none spike.

I agree. Even when mine is fully charged and I activate it at what should be a reasonable point in time, the ball drains. It does impact the ball path (so I know it's working). As you say, it's more subtle. Wonder if there is a setting to make it more aggressive (so the ball is actually saved

#8931 1 year ago
Quoted from Kevlar:

Think of it more like a magna flip, it behaves much like the magna flippers on twilight zone, just flicking the ball away rather than grabbing it like other magna saves.

That analogy helps a lot and explains why I haven't had much success with it! I need to activate it sooner if possible to push the ball away before getting too close to the outlane. I thought it was a magna save that would suck the ball in from the outlane. Thanks!

#8937 1 year ago
Quoted from RobT:

This is interesting to me. I've had my R&M pitch at several different levels, including as low as the 6.5 that you have your at. I thought the game was unplayable at that pitch, and certainly did not seem any easier.
Went to 6.7 and still did not feel right. Went up to 6.9 and to me this is the sweet spot for speed, flow, and difficulty.
Like you said, YMMV.

Interesting. Did you have to bump the right flipper power to be able to make the left ramp after 20-30 minutes of play?

#8969 1 year ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

R&M later builds (at least after #373) have a different inner loop configuration by default now. The middle screw is absent from the factory, as recommended by many others. This photo shows the unmolested configuration of my machine as seen stock from the factory delivered 12/4.
For those sticklers for stock machines you can remove that screw guilt free without "cheating". I have never had issues with my inner loop.
I did the other recommended adustments (Garage shot, diverter under house, and right u turn). All were fairly easy to excepting the garage shot.
After these changes the game is vastlly better than it was NIB/stock. It is flowier and those shots are much more makeable and shoot as intended. I got to Rick Potion #9 for the first time immediately after changes, and it's great! Contrast changes to screen make a world of difference too.
One other software change (that is cheating) I would recommend is to change the setting to allow true randomness in dimension settings, and to always alow the dimension change on the right orbit.
Your mileage may vary but all is good. Looking forward to dropping some purple titans and a few figures (Meeseks, megaseed trees, and noob noob) into my game this week. I love cheesey toys in games.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Interesting. I have #175 and my inner loop shoots pretty well (and has the screw and original placement I believe). My issue is poor right flipper strength that makes the left ramp hard to make. The settings have been modified to add flipper strength, but it's still a little anemic.

#8975 1 year ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

It’s one thing to be hard, but I feel like many of my clean shots ricochet up and hit the post/rubber ring to the left of the left ramp, vs. hugging the guide & flying up into the garage as I expect. It often does fly up into the garage, and that feels great. I haven’t made any tweaks yet....wondering if I should try adjusting my flipper position or strength to see if that makes any meaningful difference. Here’s a pic to show how my upper flipper is aligned.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Your flipper position looks a little off to me...too far forward, which would make the garage shot more difficult. Mine is parallel with the guide and base of the "Portal Ready" insert.

On my game, the left flipper was too far forward, which made the right garage shot more difficult. I dialed it in this weekend and the right orbit is now much smoother.

IMG_2896 (resized).jpeg

#9000 1 year ago

Just figured out why my right flipper is weak. Since other folks have complained about trouble making the left ramp consistently, wanted to post what I found.

As you can see, my right flipper is sitting lower than my left flipper (which is causing some subtle binding).

Turns out, the base of my right flipper is blocked by the digital display, which is why it's not flush with the PF. This causes the flipper mech/bushing to sit too low, which is effecting the power/operation.

I'm waiting for Spooky folks to advise on the best solution. I don't feel comfortable moving the display and moving the flipper mech is a big deal.

Can't wait to get this nailed...the game is hard enough without a wonky right flipper That left ramp is steep enough...
IMG_2905 (resized).jpegIMG_2908 (resized).jpegIMG_2909 (resized).jpeg

#9002 1 year ago
Quoted from MikeS:

Nice job tracking that down. Hopefully there's some room for adjustment? I took a look at mine and it is definitely close.[quoted image]

Your photo shows me what's different. Look how your display has the acrylic base removed/missing from the flipper screws. Compare it with mine...see the difference? What # is yours?

#9004 1 year ago
Quoted from MikeS:

You're right. Mine is #89.

Yep, since your digital display board is different than mine (to apparently accommodate the flipper screws), I'm waiting for Spooky to advise me on this.

My gut says neither the display or the flipper can be moved. Don't know if they modify the digital display board during build or they have different revisions? My game is #175.

Thanks goodness this is a hobby for me (and I enjoy hunting these bugs). If I were just a "Rick and Morty" fan with no pinball chops, life with this game would be more discouraging. Fortunately, I still love it. As long as Spooky folks continue to support me, all is good...

#9016 1 year ago
Quoted from MikeS:

Nice job tracking that down. Hopefully there's some room for adjustment? I took a look at mine and it is definitely close.[quoted image]

I haven't heard back from Luke yet (must be busy), but your photo gave me enough info to understand the fix (which apparently Spooky did on your game, since you haven't modified this).

I just clipped off the part of the plastic display riser that was getting in the way of the flipper base. Now the flipper mechanism sits flush

Unfortunately, I can't report a night/day difference in power at the moment. Seems about 10-20% stronger? Hard to know until I do more testing.

Also unfortunately, now that it's flush, I still notice a significant difference in the height of the flippers. Notice the significant difference with my Avengers flippers. The other *really odd* difference (with all my other games) is now high the RAM flippers sit! On all my other games, the sweet spot of the ball hits the center of the flipper rubber (what you'd expect). On my RAM, the sweet spot of the ball hits the lowermost part of the flipper rubber. This might explain why the Spooky flippers feel so odd to me...the height just seems wrong! See photos for detail on everything I'm talking about.

IMG_2914 (resized).jpegIMG_2916 (resized).jpegIMG_2919 (resized).jpegIMG_2926 (resized).jpegIMG_2928 (resized).jpegIMG_2931 (resized).jpegIMG_2934 (resized).jpeg
#9018 1 year ago
Quoted from MikeS:

Thats great that you were able to resolve the issue with the base not sitting flush. I took a look at my flippers and they definitely sit a bit higher than my Stern games. I wonder if this could be resolved by using a different bushing? I haven't noticed any issues in my game with it sitting higher. If its hitting higher in the ball that would likely help with preventing airballs but may sacrifice a small bit of power since its hitting higher on the ball? I'd be interested to hear if anyone else has thoughts on this. [quoted image]

It's more than a bit if you look closely at the photos I posted. It's quite significant...on my machine, at least. Can you snap a photo of where the ball hits on your flipper? Looks a bit lower than mine, but it's hard to tell.

It's also relevant to note that where the ball gets struck statically is different than where it gets struck when you fire the coil. That's why it's important to provide that 1/8" gap to give the flipper room to move (and not bind). So...if the lower part of the rubber is striking the ball statically, it could be 1/8" lower when the flipper is actually fired.

Intuitively, it just seems important for the sweet spot of the flipper/rubber to hit the sweet spot of the ball to get the most power/accuracy...no?

#9021 1 year ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

swap the bushings is my honest opinion.
Ball should hit square on the sweet spot. Too high or too low is less than optimal.
I also find that too high causes more torsional friction capability.

Right after seeing your bushings post 3 days ago, I emailed Scott/Terry @ PBL (before noticing the build botch I've posted about). Scott said the bushing are in spec with the original Williams flipper mechs.

I totally agree with you...ball should hit square on the sweet spot!! So...what bushings do I need to make this happen? Do you have a link?

Quoted from Fytr:

Well you should be able to loosen the flipper bats under the PF and adjust the height by lowering or raising them. They should fully down and then with a credit card's width of gap left between the bottom of the flipper and the top of the bushing.
I would start there, they might just be set a little high currently.

That doesn't make sense. The flipper bushings are simply too high. If they are too high, it's impossible to lower the flippers.

#9024 1 year ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

I must be misunderstanding the issue. I thought the gap between the flipper and playfield could be adjusted, isn’t there even a tool for this?

You are misunderstanding the issue. Do you have experience rebuilding (or working on) flippers. If not, then it's not surprising you are misunderstanding.

The gap can certainly be adjusted, however the flipper rests on the bushing, which is the absolute low point for the flipper.

#9027 1 year ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

this is a good call. After looking at his pictures again, his bats are sitting proud over the top of the bushing.
That is a good first step and see.
I personally dont like the bushing height on a bunch of games that have come out recently. I think something changed slightly at the main place that makes the bushings. They are for sure in spec, but slightly lower is better.
I unfortunately dont know the exact ones to order as I keep a stock of like 6 different bushings and just eyeball it/ compare to what I pull out of a game.

My flippers are resting on the bushing. Don't know what you are seeing.

#9031 1 year ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

looks to be sitting high/ over top of bushing?
[quoted image]

Sorry, can't be lowered any more (and has the 1/8) recommended gap when I pull up on the flipper.

Quoted from Fytr:

No need to be testy. *If* the flippers are already resting on the top of the bushing, then yes, obviously they can't be lowered further. That is an assumption at this point.
On my game, I adjusted the flippers as soon as I saw the odd flipper angle they had set them at at the factory and made sure they had plenty of "slack" vertically when I tightened them down. I have no problem with the left ramp shot.

I wasn't being "testy". jonesjb *asked* if he was misunderstanding the issue and I said he was. I'm trying to help by putting this info out here. I can take it all private if you'd prefer (now that was testy

Quoted from epthegeek:

Difference in PF thickness between WMS and Spooky?

Exactly. I don't have my BW machines at this location, but I just checked my JJP/DI (which I believe uses the same flippers as Spooky?). The PF is indeed 1/8" thicker than my RAM PF (and the flipper strikes the ball in the proper location).

At this point, it's clear to me that Spooky (or PBL) simply needs to advise us on what bushings would lower the flipper 1/8". The flippers just aren't hitting the ball optimally...I'm convinced of this.

#9039 1 year ago
Quoted from arzoo:

This would also explain why the flipper rubbers get destroyed so easily - the ball is only hitting the lower edge of the rubber.
[quoted image]

Exactly...which doesn't happen on any of my other games.

Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

Can washers be installed below the playfield in-between the entire flipper and coil metal bracket they are attached to? To pull the entire assembly away or down? To bring the flippers closer to the playfield?

Quoted from Morinack:

washers can vary in thickness and may be hard to find some that fit. An acrylic shim may work better to make up for the 1/8".
But likely needs to be laser cut.

I've talked to folks about this and it's problematic. I think the ball needs to be in Spooky's "court" to advise on this issue. Adhoc solutions for this part of the game (which get's pounded) isn't something I'm going to fiddle with.

#9045 1 year ago
Quoted from arzoo:

Not sure I totally agree, I would think the combination of a difficult shot off the flipper tip and only using the lower edge of the rubber could in some cases make the shot much harder imo.

Yep. In fact, from "day 1", I've thought the flippers have felt odd. Now that I see where the ball is being hit, I'm not surprised. I'm convinced that it's important for the sweet spot of the bat/rubber to hit the sweet spot of the ball. Striking the ball at the lower tip of the rubber just can't lead to better ball control/placement. It's not just about power.

JJP uses the same flipper mech I believe. Here is an A/B between RAM and DI. As I mentioned above, it's because the DI PF is 1/8" thicker than the RAM PF.

Quoted from Whysnow:

I personally think that the game is good as-is and they wont be (nor should need to) change anything.

You are pretty inconsistent, since 3 days ago you told people to swap out the bushing if they were having flipper issues.
IMG_2934 (resized).jpegIMG_2935 (resized).jpeg

#9047 1 year ago
Quoted from guitarded:

Take the bushings out and sand/trim them down to your preferred height.
Problem solved in less time than it takes to photograph pics of your other machines.

So incredibly false...taking off flipper bushings is much more work than taking a photo of a flipper/ball.

If you don't know that, you've never done it. Or...you just like being cute.

#9065 1 year ago
Quoted from SpookyCharlie:

Yo' pinball people.
Ok... spent some time on the phone with the mfg. We have never changed anything in the flipper mechs and have been running the same everything since day one here at Spooky over the course of well over 2,000 games to date in that regard.
BUT... looking at older Spooky games here vs Rick and Morty ... you pinball maniacs ain't wrong. The flippers do sit a bit higher with this same ol' same ol' Wms style bushing.
ALSO BUT... some of you do see this as a problem. And we all do agree here that this CAN BE IMPROVED REGARDLESS.
So... since it can be improved... our manufacturer has agreed to work with us and yep, we'll be getting our very own Spooky Pinball specific flipper bushing tooling put together.
Anyone who feels they want to change theirs out, give us an email: sq[email protected] ... it will take a couple months (best guess) to get this tooling change tested, made, and in stock but we'll happily replace your bushings and obviously they'll be factory installed on all future production.
So there you have it... you spoke, we listened. Anyone who wants a set of 3 bushings for Rick and Morty we'll happily ship you them free of charge.
Hope that helps, and HAPPY HOLIDAYS! Peace, love, and all things pinball ya'll.

Thanks so much for listening and acting so quickly, Charlie. Rick and Morty is my first Spooky game and it rocks!

Tuning it to play optimally is the goal of many folks on this thread. The collaboration between your customers and your company makes you guys very, very special. So happy to hear this improvement will be factory installed on future production games!

#9080 1 year ago
Quoted from RobF:

Well done Charlie. Two questions.
1) When the new parts are available, will new games be built with these going forward?
2) Do you plan a little play testing of your first prototype of the updated bushings to see if you can provide some kind of qualitative assessment between the two? Not that Pinside isn't the de facto truth for all and everything....but it sure would be nice to hear from the manufacturer the results of their own Pepsi challenge.
I am also curious if the whitewood or the early proto games have the flippers sitting lower than the production versions.

(1) was answered in Charlie's post..."they'll be factory installed on all future production."

#9089 1 year ago
Quoted from RobF:

2) Do you plan a little play testing of your first prototype of the updated bushings to see if you can provide some kind of qualitative assessment between the two? Not that Pinside isn't the de facto truth for all and everything....but it sure would be nice to hear from the manufacturer the results of their own Pepsi challenge.

Hey Rob,

Since I pushed for this change as a side-effect of investigating issues with my right flipper, I wanted to comment briefly.

Lowering the flipper bushing by 1/8" is a really simple change that I'm certain Spooky will "play test"...

I don't know about Pinside and de facto truth, but the players/collectors on Pinside are where new pinball machines receive their real-world alpha/beta testing. When I worked in "big tech", we had very large...very expensive alpha/beta programs for OS releases. Since pinball companies don't have the resources to do vast, sponsored platform testing, the Pinside community is the next best thing.

What's exceptional about Spooky, is they recognize this and are responsive to feedback...which is one reason I feel great about my purchase. I'm not looking for perfect pinball machines (I already know they don't exist. I'm looking to support a company that's passionate about their products and "do right" by the community. Charlie's response today is one example of this.

I know many of us are capable of fixing this on our own, but having this corrected at the factory will help guarantee more machines will benefit from this fix. Not everyone purchasing these games is capable or motivated to fix flipper bushings.

#9093 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Has anyone else experienced the flipper coil settings not affecting the power of the flipper at all?
Specifically I'm talking about lower right flipper. I've been messing with this since I got the game, trying to get the ball up the left ramp. EOS adjusted, flipper gapped properly, no binding, etc. A setting of 30 versus 50 provides pretty much no difference in strength of shot. There is obviously an art to the timing of left ramp shot but from a cradled ball it is almost impossible to make at either power. I found it really odd as I kept turning the power up during my investigating (playing 20-30 games between changes) that when I just went from 50 to 30 there is no difference I can tell at all. I would have expected something drastic. At 50 I could still barely roll the ball over the top of that ramp, same as I can do at 30. I'm not looking to tune out the skill needed but I want to know why the flipper shows no difference.
This is on a fresh machine, the coil is not overheated. In fact, while I have monitored the temps I don't notice a ton of change to flipper strength over time. I never bothered checking my other machines for this (do other games have the heat issue?) but I also never have any issue with the strength of the coils on B/W and JJP games. I just redid my TOM and the flippers are amazingly sharp and clean.
Something just doesn't feel right with the flippers in general. They are still at factory positions (about a pencil thickness away from the playfield holes) and I have zero hope of ever being able to backhand that left ramp like this so I'm thinking about lowering them closer to the alignment holes.
One also has to question why the holes were put where they were if the flippers aren't meant to align with them? All I can think of is that this is a change to setup after issues with the stock hole locations. Otherwise, that's where you put the holes, no?
Anyhow, looking for any feedback on this. I am going to toss some cooling fans in there next to see if it does in fact do anything but on a fresh machine I can't see how this is an issue. Sorry if this was further discussed in the last 400 posts, miss a few days and there is no way to catch up!

Check to see if your game has the build defect I discovered yesterday (and fixed today).


Didn't completely solve my right flipper power issue, but definitely improved it.

#9118 1 year ago
Quoted from vilant:

...but I assure you it has the same effect as grinding down a bushing to lower the bat.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I'm not a mechanical engineer (or physics guru), but I doubt this is true. My bushing is 3/16" off the PF. If the bushing is lowered 2/16", the bat will be sitting 2/16" lower in the clamp, which (I believe) will improve the operation of the flipper.

Flipper tuning/performance is really an art/skill. If you add the proper "flipper gap" to the 3/16" off the PF, the bat ends up being held too close to the end of the bat. By lowering the bushing, the bat will be "choked" at the position it was designed for.

Based on much trial/error over the years, I've seen minor changes to the flipper gap effect flipper performance. DILE is a great example...many folks were complaining about poor flipper performance when the game was released. The problem was the factory "gap" wasn't right...factory flippers were binding (causing loss of power). Simple adjustment improved flipper performance dramatically.

Not saying your lower flipper rubber isn't a good low-effort, short-term improvement...just pushing back on your assertion that "it has the same effect".

IMG_2948 (resized).jpeg
#9147 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Any chance of voices for Gerry, Beth and Summer? Real or voice actor, I don’t mind, but they’re really missed IMO.

This game is so far ahead of almost every pinball I've ever owned (in terms of dialogue), I can't say I miss the other characters much. Would definitely be cool if one of the adventures included Gerry/Beth/Summer. Maybe a wizard mode to hold out the carrot?

#9149 1 year ago
Quoted from kermit24:

Are there other types of bushings available that are the correct height?

Not for B/W flipper assemblies, apparently. If an existing bushing worked better, it would have been discovered by now. As Charlie said, modifying the bushing requires retooling (which I'm sure they would avoid if possible).

#9159 1 year ago
Quoted from SgtStryker:

I have a question about the Rick and Morty Pin. I haven't watched the show, my brother has told me it's fantastic and I have to watch it. I'm sure I'll get around to it some day but unfortunately I don't have the time right now. My brother did tell me that the show is very adult and I've read that the Rick and Morty pin has a family friendly mode. I don't know if what I've read about the Rick and Morty Pin having a family friendly mode is true and if it does have a family friendly mode, Is it truly a family friendly? I have young kids and my wife would lose her mind if I bought a pin that was too adult. I'm considering buying the Rick and Morty Pin, even though I haven't seen the show. The lay out looks really cool and the lighting looks great too and the kids, I'm sure would think the space theme is cool. Thanks in advance for the help.

Everyone's definition of family friendly is different. If your wife would "lose her mind", then I wouldn't take the risk. Your brother is right...it's very adult. I haven't fiddled with family friendly mode on mine, but even if it's "ok", your kids will seek out the show after playing the game. And the show doesn't come with a "family friendly" mode That's what happened to me. Never watched the show before getting the game...bought it because my son (in college) loves the show and asked me to get one.

#9163 1 year ago
Quoted from MrCleanHead:

Approx .105" thick acrylic spacer. I think you will need longer screws, dont know since I dont have my RaM yet to test fitment. The spacer fits over my WMS/BLY replacement bushing so it should work just fine. LMK if there is any interest in this TEMPORARY MOD and I will create a pinside listing. $6 shipped for 3 of them in the US first class. Also if anyone else needs anything made just send me a PM. Lately I have been making acrylic stands for figure mods for various games, I just will need a 1 to 1 template.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Hey Rob,

Pretty certain that mod wouldn't work at all (though I understand the idea). You need to look at where this bushing fits/operates to see why it doesn't work.


#9165 1 year ago
Quoted from MrCleanHead:

I was looking at my TNA, at first I looked at my BSD. BSD will work but it would be tight. TNA the bushing is mounted to the flipper housing assembly. Without taking it apart and assuming that its the same as rick and morty, the only issues that I see that will cause a problem in that the screws are not going to be long enough and the part that clamps to the bat post will be at a slight angle downward. Mine on TNA are the opposite so I dont think will be to much issue there.
If there are any other issues that Im not seeing just let me know. Also, if anyone that is near me wants to try these out hit me up.
Im sure it will be easier just to remove the bushing and grind/file/sand/cut of the desired amount.

If you place your mod in-between the bushing and the mount, it will certainly lower the bushing topside, but the bushing bottom side will not be in the proper position to accommodate the flipper plunger/crank assembly. See photo from another game I happen to have open...same B/W mech Spooky uses.

IMG_2970 (resized).jpeg
#9168 1 year ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

Exactly what I was going to write! ... +1
What you Could do though is mount the entire mechs on 1/8" plastic spacers at the 4 feet.

Yeah, but then you need to fiddle with different sized screws, and the screws are very close together (and might not accommodate the spacers).

The flipper mounts on R&M already use 2 different sized screws to mount the flippers! The screws under the apron are longer than the screws under the visible PF. Really odd, but apparently necessary because the PF is 1/8" thinner than B/W and JJP PF's. Very important to remember to mimic what Spooky does if you remove the flipper bracket to replace the bushing, or you might damage the PF topside! I love the job Spooky did on the PF, but wish it was standard thickness to avoid these issues. Not a huge deal, but has unintended consequences as we are seeing.

#9170 1 year ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

In engineering, part of the fun is that most changes to existing assemblies will have unintended consequences. You just need to think through and catch them. Anyway, I would just wait for the new bushing. That bushing spacer will not work and it is not worth the risk of putting a spacer under your flipper mechs, using too long of a screw, and ruining your nice playfield.

Thanks for weighing in, Scott. Totally agree!

#9179 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

As a temporary fix, I would just lower the entire flipper mech 1/8" by putting 4 drilled square spacers, under the 4 feet of the flipper base plates.
This could be done with very little disassembly.
As its temporary, I would just use the existing screws. At 1/2" depth they should hold up since there are 8.
If too loose, use regular 5/8" playfiled screws if they dont go too deep.

Again, Spooky uses 4 3/8" and 4 1/2" (on the left flipper assembly) to avoid poking through the PF. Fiddling with other sized screws is risky. Just trying to caution against adhoc solutions that might end up messing up your PF.

Quoted from MikeS:

Its really not an issue where we can't just wait a couple of months for the new bushings to be available from Spooky. I've been enjoying my game for 6 months and didn't really notice any detrimental effects on gameplay. If you must do something now I think the best solution would be to buy a few WPC bushings and sand or dremel 1/8th inch off the top. The end result would be the same as waiting on the factory solution.


#9182 1 year ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Why did Spooky use a thinner playfield vs the standard 1/2" playfield that's been around forever in pinball?...

I have no idea, but my R&M thickness measures 7/16"...and my DILE is a tad wider than 1/2" (same with older B/W titles).

Quoted from Zablon:

..and yet better quality than many if not all?

No doubt. I am thrilled with my R&M PF in all other respects, but the unintended consequences (bushing/screw height) are unfortunate. I'd much prefer my flippers be fastened with 1/2" screws all around. More secure, and less complexity when doing maintenance. Oh well...Spooky will have to decide if the thinner PF's are a bug or feature...this is my first Spooky pin. I have no idea what width their other PF's are...

#9189 1 year ago
Quoted from MikeS:

Width is .4735" on my digital caliper. Not sure why it's slightly thinner but this is a nice quality sheet of plywood. If all playfields were this nice we'd have to find something new to complain about.
I also took measurements of my Shadow playfield to compare which was .5245".
[quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]

Sweet tool! Thanks for the measurements. Interesting how even though is slightly thinner, it has many more layers. As you say, it's a nice quality sheet of plywood and the print/clear is gorgeous.

#9205 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Lowered my bushings today bitches......(there’s a combination of words I never thought I’d use). Easy to do and makes a big difference. Highly recommended....or at least do it when Spooky make some new ones.
[quoted image]

Great job...perfect height! Not surprised it makes a big difference. How much did you lower the bushing...1/8"? I will do mine next week.

#9210 1 year ago

Considering I ended up placing R&M in the entry to my home, I'm glad I added the butter. Haven't waxed it yet, but plan on doing it after the dust settles on dialing it in. Love the unique artwork on all sides.

IMG_2976 (resized).jpeg

#9231 1 year ago
Quoted from CaryCarmichael:

Good news, everybody!
We figured out that if you break apart some old switch stacks, you have the perfect spacer, which won’t create binding under the playfield.
Literally remove only the 8 screws from each flipper plate foot, and slide one switch stack under each foot of the plate. Use the usual screws you’d find for this mech, and as it turns out there were shorties used on over half the plates a from the factory. Probably for good reason originally, pre-footie.
No need to stress, just check the screw length compared with the plate and new footie plus the playfield. Also the flipper, with pressure on the tip, cannot touch the playfield.
Some photos... in whatever order Pinside decided I wanted them. Notice the left flipper after adding new switch stack footies, compared to the right sitting proud as was found stock.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Pretty cool solution! (if you have switches lying around to dismantle...which I don't Definitely easier than disassembling the flippers, but I'm sticking with the Scott/Spooky approved solution of lowering the bushing.

Yeah, the different size screw dance must be a real PITA when populating these PF's. I noticed it when I lowered the scoop as well...was weirded out by the different sized screws (originally thought it was a mistake). Then realized the larger screws were used in places where pop-up dimples won't be seen. Ouch.

Would love to hear the folklore on why these really amazing PF's are ~1/8" thinner. Can't be $$, since Spooky goes all out on the BOM. Will be interesting to see if the next Spooky game goes back to standard size plywood. Really not a fan of the smaller screws for mounting the flippers! Much prefer 1/2" all around.

#9247 1 year ago

Problem for you modders out there. The Jerry/Summer/Beth target are very close together and move. As you can see in the photo below, Summer is now in front of Jerry (and overlapping). If you hit Summer, Jerry also gets pushed (and might trigger). A mod (or suggestion) to keep these targets aligned would be great!

IMG_2920 (resized).jpeg
#9261 1 year ago
Quoted from arzoo:

I know others have posted similar pics, but thought I also concur, lowering the flipper and changing the flipper angle so it's just above the calibration hole (using a toothpick) absolutely makes the left ramp shot more consistent. In my case I removed 3/32" from each bushings. I could probably have gone to 1/8" safely.
I'll also mention for anyone who's planning to swap out their bushings when Spooky provides the new ones; be aware that the three screws holding the bushing to the mounting plate have small 8mm lock nuts on the back side. I wasn't expecting this and when I removed the first screw the tiny nut fell into the rats nest (which somehow I found). The screws are threaded into the plate, so I guess the lock nuts are for extra security. Bottom line, you have to remove the plate from the playfield (8 wood screws, not all the same size) to remove the bushing.
Bonus question, guess the two pins barely visible from the two slits under the apron.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Is your left flipper in that photo "stock"?

#9264 1 year ago
Quoted from arzoo:

That's correct.

Seemed obvious, but I asked because my stock flippers are quite a bit off and I have no clue why. PF is level, but the left flipper sits considerably higher than my right. I know it's not the bushings. The other variables are the flipper plate and playfield thickness. Sigh.

IMG_2926 (resized).jpeg
#9271 1 year ago
Quoted from guitarded:

Difference in flipper gap would be the obvious variance I would look at ...unless that is with both flippers not gapped and sitting directly on top of the bushings?
If that is the case, I would pull the bushings put them on a flat/level surface and look to see if the top of the bushings are level?

Gapping doesn't impact where the flippers rest.

#9273 1 year ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

If there is WAY too much gap (up down travel), the crank/plunger may follow in line with the coil/sleeve (not allow the flipper shaft/bat to drop and rest on the bush face)... so holding the bat and shaft at an elevated rest position (not resting down on the bush face). This would also produce a weaker flipper that might also not really bind either.

Thanks for the response, but I have the B/W gap tool and my flippers are gapped perfectly (yet they are uneven). I'll have to take this to Spooky directly at this point...doesn't make sense to me. I thought that after fixing this problem (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/180#post-6015874), the flippers would be in alignment. It helped, but no cigar.

#9277 1 year ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

I'd take the flippers out and rest your level on the bushings themselves... That will eliminate extra part and adjustment variables.
If level across the bushings then you need to investigate your flippers/adjustments.
If not level, the isuue is in the mechs (Is each bushing tigthened identically? Is each base plate flush against pf at all 4 corners?)

Quoted from arzoo:

Looking at your pic again, I can see a bit of the flipper shaft (metal) above the right flipper (left in the pic). The bottom of the flipper plate should sit flush on the bushing, so maybe razorsedge is correct in that the plunger mech is somehow pushing the flipper shaft up? Goingincirclez had some good suggestions. I would also check that the metal plate on the bottom of both flippers is screwed tightly to the plastic. I guess it's even possible both the flippers are not manufactured identically?
Also, those digital levels can be flaky, I know with mine just tapping it and it will change a tenth of a degree or more.

I've checked most of what you've mentioned...will double check.

#9282 1 year ago

Just spent a day lowering the flipper bushings, adjusting the right orbit, etc. No doubt that part of my problem playing this game was the sum of all the little things that needed tweaking! On my second game after the tweaks, got to Love Potion #9 for the first time about to cross 50M on Ball 2.

Unfortunately, then I bumped into this software bug:


Has anyone else experienced a weird loop/hang on LP#9? Watch video for details. Eric? epthegeek

#9287 1 year ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

What number of pre-completed stamps did you start on?

IMG_3005 (resized).jpeg
#9288 1 year ago
Quoted from guitarded:

Except when it does, got it.
Glad you were able to grind those bushings down, finally. Sounds like your machine is shooting better now.

I see your point, but yeah, I'm pretty experienced/anal about my flipper gaps It is shooting *much* better...thanks for your help. That left ramp is still very steep, so the ball doesn't "fly" up, but it makes it much more comfortably now.

Haven't done the upper flipper yet. The bottom flippers were pretty time consuming. The switch on the left flipper was poorly soldered and broke loose, so I had to redo that as well. Since most of collection has modernized, haven't broken out the soldering tool in awhile. The location of the right flipper was also a PITA...had to remove the support bracket.

Fortunately, I have plenty of time to play with this...like a big puzzle. Rewarding when the game is playing optimally.

#9292 1 year ago
Quoted from Zablon:

Given how much tearing down/fixing and commenting on the shooting and flipper fade etc, I'm surprised that it took this long for anyone to point out the gap issue.

Well, took me ~2 weeks after unboxing to realize the flipper height was foobar after hunting down another flipper build problem (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/180#post-6015874). Flippers on my #175 never felt "right". Based on some earlier posts, I thought it was related to "bad" flipper bushings (which wasn't true apparently).

After fixing/lowering both the scoop and flippers ~1/8", it's clear the root cause of these issues is the non-standard PF width. Since many of the parts were developed for B/W pins, it's pretty important that the PF width match the B/W specs! I really love aesthetics of this PF...couldn't be better, BUT it just seems like deviating on the width is asking for problems. I really don't like having to fiddle with 3/8" screws for mechs like the scoop and flippers that need to be fastened securely. If people that are lesser skilled (or are in a rush) start doing many of the tweaks discussed in this thread, I just know someone is going to use the wrong screw and damage their beautiful PF. Also complicates building these beauties, which must be a pain at Spooky! Still love the game and I'm glad Spooky is listening to us alpha/beta testers. If my game were sold to a newbie (or someone that didn't have the time to investigate/tweak), I'd feel bad for them.

#9296 1 year ago
Quoted from Morinack:

While i more or less agree, anyone that drops $8k on an unfamiliar hobby without the where withall to hire someone to maintain or the interest to maintain a pin themselves is a bit silly.
I have always believed, Pinball is kinetic art that humans pay money to hammer on. Kinda like giving a pane of glass (read iPad) to a 6 yr old. These things are imperfect and prone to breaking.
That said, i do agree that measurements must be considered for things like PF depth for hardware that penetrates said PF. Happy Spooky sees that and is willing to offer a proper fix.

Not sure I grok the iPad analogy...I worked for Apple for many years and iPads are incredibly reliable consumer devices (even in the hands of kids).

In any event, I agree with your opening statement, but it's a matter of degree. If I had to pay someone to find/fix the problems I've already dealt with as a new owner, the bill would be significant. I would imagine most techs charge a minimum of $50 per/hour. I've spent 10-20 hours on diagnosing/fixing problems, and if I had to pay someone $500-$1000, within the first 2 weeks of ownership, well, I wouldn't be happy.

When I purchased my first NIB game (Lord of the Rings) in 2004, within the first month, the "Gimli switch" failed. The distributor that sold it to me came to my house and installed a new/improved switch. After that brief service call (which was free), the game has played flawlessly for the next 16 years! No joke. They don't make 'um like that anymore!

#9297 1 year ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

After the last public build I leaned in to what helped reduce the freezing situation previously even more (was afraid to try it before the release in case things went wrong) and feedback from the testers is that the freezing is gone completely now.

That's great news! Since many people have been effected by the freezing, do you have plans for a mini update to squash the freezing bug? Seems like getting it out asap is a win/win. If it's a simple bug fix, it helps us. If it's a complex bug fix, it helps you get air time on the fix.

#9315 1 year ago
Quoted from pinball_ric:

The other issue is for some reason my first game doesn't have the problem with airballs off the right ramp that people have commented on previously in the thread however game two does and it's pretty significant. It makes hitting the right ramp pretty hard as quite often the ball will just go flying all over the place and not go around the ramp. The only difference I've noticed is that the ramp sits farther forward on the problem game. The heights of the ramp appear to be the same or at least very close. We haven't figured out how to solve the issue yet. Hopefully at some point we can figure something out since we have a 'good' game to compare to.
I really want to be excited about how fast Spooky is cranking out the games but it is my opinion that it's at least partly because of the lack of QC going into games coming off the line currently. I hope others don't have similar or even worse issues when they get their games.

Have you checked to see if the right ramp flap is entirely flush with the PF? And that the screws are below the ramp? If the flap or screws stick up at all, it will send the ball flying. My example doesn't have this problem, so I haven't dealt with it on RAM...but I've had other games with ramp flap issues.

#9322 1 year ago
Quoted from Eric_S:

R&M 394 was picked up yesterday. Enjoying it quite a bit, but it is brutal.
[quoted image]

Quoted from RobT:

Brutal indeed. Be prepared to have your ass handed to you. Repeatedly. But eventually it will all come together, you will have a great game, and then you won't be able to stop pressing the start button over and over...

No doubt it's brutal, but the brutality is amplified (big time) if your game isn't dialed in. For me, the 4 biggest issues that effected my ability to play the game were: (1) my loop diverter was bound. (2) my flippers weren't "right" in several respects, leading to weakness (especially with the left ramp). (3) the right orbit guide needed to be pushed back. (4) my scoop needed to be lowered (if it's not lowered, you get tons of rejects).

All of these are mentioned somewhere in this vast thread (along with many others).

After finishing these tweaks, the game is much more approachable. Already putting up new GC's (of 50-60M) and reached Love Potion #9 for the first time.

So, don't get discouraged. If it makes you feel like you've never played pinball before, there is hope!

#9338 1 year ago
Quoted from arzoo:

Now that we've had some time playing with all three of the flipper bushings adjusted (lowered 3/32") and the lower flippers set just above the alignment holes, it's crazy how much different the pin plays. It seems way faster (and it was already fast)! The orbit shots fly around super fast, and the ramp shots hit the top so fast that now I'm getting some rejects. I may actually lower the flipper coil settings (even though I don't think they do anything). I'm not sure why having the ball hit more of the "meat" of the flipper rubber would make the game faster, but it definitely seems to have done that!

Awesome! Seems like getting more of the flipper rubber to make contact with the ball might partially explain the dramatic improvement. Can you take photos of your bottom flippers? I'd like to see your PF/flipper gap @ 3/32". Thanks.

#9350 1 year ago
Quoted from arzoo:

Looking at the pic, it seems like my left flipper (right in picture) is not exactly parallel to the pf. Hmmm, this would have to be something with the mounting plate below. Or maybe it's just a shadow in the pic? Not gonna worry about it
[quoted image][quoted image]

Your left flipper doesn't look level with the right (which is something I've noticed on mine).

On my stock flipper setup, my left flipper was .55 higher than the right. After I lowered the bushings, it improved to .35 higher than the right.

Yes, the PF was level in both instances

Wasn't able to figure out why the flippers aren't level...game is shooting great, so I'm not losing sleep over it!

IMG_2926 (resized).jpegIMG_3002 (resized).jpeg
#9362 1 year ago
Quoted from Kevlar:

Mine is even worse than that, the tip of the left flipper is about 5mm higher than the base of the flipper. It's always bugged me, but I never got around to fixing it. Now the new bushings are coming I'll sort it out when fitting them.

I tried to figure it out, btw and gave up. I even took the apron off to help see what was going on. My "lift" isn't much, so I'm not that concerned. It is interesting that several of us have this. Keep us posted if you figure it out...

IMG_2996 (resized).jpeg
#9364 1 year ago
Quoted from guitarded:

That would have to be the feet on the flipper mounting bracket not being square to the PF, no?
All things being equal...gotta be those mounting tabs / feet that are screwed to the underside of the PF.
Unless the Flipper Bushing collar isn't uniform thickness? Maybe try rotating the bushings if you are in there...if that doesn't change the angle, it has to be the bracket assembly.

I suspect the bracket assembly, but it's odd several of us are seeing it (guess it could be a bad batch...?). No doubt the shaved bushing might be off a tad, but I had this issue with the stock bushings as well (which are uniform).

I should have looked more closely when I had the bracket off...oh well.

#9369 1 year ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

Is the corner of the flipper plate (at the extreme left) mounted on top of the edge of the black printed spacer for the P-roc switch board?
Is the edge of the black spacer jammed between the flipper plate and the playfield there? . Mine is hard up touching each other there. That would kinda match the misalignment you have as well.
If not I'd be looking at how the bush is in relation to the flipper plate. May have debris under mounting flange or a burr, even may be damaged/distorted or something. That is a very large amount for a flipper plate to be out of spec. It's more than a millimeter, which would stand out like a sore thumb to look at from underside.
Others have had flipper plates mounted with other parts sandwiched between plate and playfield, so it is worth checking for that thoroughly. There are a few spots it can potentially happen, another game had right flipper mech with ball save spacer sandwiched between.

There are no obstructions since I took the flipper mech off entirely to lower the bushings.

Out of the box, I had the right flipper obstructed by the display, but I fixed that before dealing with the bushings (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/180#post-6015874).

#9371 1 year ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

Maybe one of the bushing screw threads has a bur on it or something, skewing it?
Can you see if the bushing is mounted nice and flush on the flipper plate?

When Spooky distributes the official lowered bushings, I'll dig into this again and double check everything you (and others) have mentioned.

For now, I'm more interested in playing than "dialing in", and the flippers have improved dramatically over the past week or so (so I'm good for now).

Thanks for the help!

#9372 1 year ago