Got my build sheet #217.
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Quoted from LouMatt:#144 Arrived today in the Commonwealth for all you number nerds on here.
Commonwealth?
Quoted from LouMatt:The Commonwealth of Kentucky my Canadian friend.
Huh, that’s cool, so Kentucky isn’t actually a state per se.
I did not know that.
Heard something hit the bottom of the cab last game.
Found a lock nut from the pop under the amp.
Removed two washers from each side and reinstalled the nuts.
Will check it again after a bunch of plays but the plastic portion of the nuts is biting now.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Can someone explain why the 3 washers are needed?
This does seem like a hack...
Is the pop body too tall?
I can get nice translucent ones ftom Zitt.
It seems to function well with only one washer.
More info on this from Spooky would be nice.
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:Well, this is not from Spooky, but the 3 washers on there was a mod people were doing to their TNA games to make the pop bumper ring sit higher on the playfield and get better action on the ball.
--Scott
Well I definitely don’t want it to stop making shots for me.
But I don’t want to keep dropping nuts in the cab either.
Quoted from xfassa:Well.....after several games with the new mod installed, I can confirm it will not help improve your scores. I am still a terrible player.
[quoted image]
And you're missing a ramp screw.
Quoted from JohnDeere:Which post sleeves are people using for Titans? The standards or 'Stern slim tapered'
I threw the slims on.
They are the closest to what was already installed.
Unless you want tighter shots of course.
Quoted from aeonblack:Can we get a confirmation that Spooky has indeed made changes to the rails in the loops and garage shots?
I have read through the key posts and such to see what the fixes are, are these being done from the factory now?
In my opinion this isn't needed.
Hardly ever brick that shot, it is hit it or miss it.
Quoted from aeonblack:But does it rattle around in those shots? It seems to me that's what most of these fixes solved, just smoothing things out to make things less clunky.
Nah not really, it’s a wide shot though so there IS a sweet spot.
The best/most reliable way at least for me is to hit a perfect inner loop shot and then just hold up the flipper.
Reminds me of The Shadow.
Quoted from arzoo:Can anyone confirm if it should be possible to back-flip the right ramp? I'm at 6.8 degrees and even with the flipper at max power (50), the ball can't make it over the top curve of the ramp.
I’m at 6.9 and 35 power and I back flip it all the time.
When’s the last time you waxed?
Quoted from arzoo:Waxed yesterday. At 35 the ball makes it halfway up the ramp. Hmmmm maybe I need to adjust the flipper angle up a bit?
I have NOT adjusted the flippers at all.
Wish I had a toothpick to take a better picture with the hole gap, they are angled upward slightly.
Quoted from arzoo:That looks the same as mine. Not sure why the flipper would seem so weak?
What’s your hold strength set at?
Quoted from arzoo:The default, which I think is Medium.
I’m set at high, maybe try that?
Quoted from epthegeek:FWIW, the hold power is not where the high heat comes from. Even on 'high' it's a very low duty cycle and should be fine. The long pulse of the initial flip is where the heat comes from, especially if repeated a lot - like nervous tapping flippers repeatedly when the ball is nowhere near.
Also, and not directly related to the post I quoted, you're not likely getting much extra power past 40 on the setting. You're just generating more heat.
Good info!
And the hotter the coil, the weaker the coil correct?
Quoted from delt31:Bass was way overpowered. I unhooked it and went for external. Perfect ever since.
We’re talkin flipper strength.
Quoted from delt31:I’m talking Bass shaking the glass. Maybe I pulled in the wrong quote but the rattle on the glass is crazy and $35 rattle tape is dumb
Yeah it was crazy for me too.
Turned it way down and installed some electrical tape.
All good now.
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