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#141 here. I went to adjust my scoop to try to reduce rejects. I found that Spooky has installed washers as shims from the factory. I did bend the scoop back till it almost touches the plastic. This adjustment does appear to help quite a bit. I had to get under there anyway because someone forgot to hot glue one of the connectors to the small display by the scoop and is will vibrate free over time.
c43 (resized).JPGc44 (resized).JPGIf you haven’t tried it you can hear more detail on the high end sounds by turning down the subwoofer. Also the glass doesn’t rattle. You can find the manual for the Lepai LP-168HA amp online. I adjusted the Sub Volume knob. There is a sound test in the settings that will play different back ground songs and you can reach the knob from the coin door.
Quoted from epthegeek:The centering logic only looks at the width of the name because it’s USUALLY wider than the score. I’ll update for the next release so it uses the score if that’s larger.
Sorry for using PITA skinny initials but I have been using them for 40+ years.
It was under 400 plays when the ship flex plastic broke on mine. Maybe the length of travel was too far on my machine or the plastic was bad. Sure we will see in time if it's a detective design. A metal hinge might not look too bad as there are already several exposed nuts and bolts in that area.
Quoted from epthegeek:Do you force-restart your game much
I do force restart fairly often. Maybe some of the beta testers can try adding that to testing. Didn't notice any pattern to what caused the slow down. Every time it was during a good game when a lot was happening. Will see if I can set up some video.
I'm #141 , I only use I I I as my high score initials (not really my initials) . Funny though to be nearly back to back numbers with JJJ .
Quoted from Izzy24:the audio got choppy and lagged significantly.
Did it happen around 25-30 minutes of continuous play? For me that's when I have seen the glitch.
Quoted from jeffspinballpalace:how do these four connectors look?
Yes, the colors do line up with the sticker. So they appear to be correct after checking my machine.
Quoted from BillyPilgrim:I’m hoping someone has a quick fix idea?
This is just a guess but it shows CMOS time/date not set. Mine doesn't say that on boot. Maybe your CMOS battery died. You could try plugging is a USB keyboard and see if you can set the time.
Quoted from jonesjb:Did I purchase the right products
I installed the same model numbers in mine and the washed out colors from my view angle is much improved. Check all the cables. Hot gluing the cable to the monitor was a little tricky. There is a LED that comes on on the adjustment board. The menu button should bring something up on the display.
a150 (resized).JPGa151 (resized).JPGQuoted from xfassa:Try a different color?
Looks good but are you changing how it's mounted? I lessened the amount of travel when I replaced mine to try to keep it from breaking again.
a152 (resized).JPGQuoted from xfassa:"Lessened the amount of travel"
I think it was going up and down too far causing breakage over time. You can adjust it so the rod pushes the plate less.
Quoted from jonesjb:Hmmm what’s going on here...
That is the key so you don't put in on the the wrong orientation.
Quoted from jonesjb:DOA but the controller board
I don't see why you couldn't use the controller board that came from the factory. They look identical. Maybe the only reason to get a new board was for the cable. Can't reuse the original cable because it's glued into place.
Quoted from jonesjb:Yes, that’s what I originally thought
OK, Mine has a whole different cable .
a153 (resized).JPGQuoted from jonesjb:Where did you buy yours from?
The one you got does not match the picture on Amazon.
ebay.com link: HDMI DVI VGA Audio Controller Board For 15 6 B156HW01 LP156WF1 1920x1080 LCD
Quoted from gliebig:Just had vid clipping/game froze
I have had 2 " slow downs " followed by lockups on the latest code.
I’m going to put a couple of questions out there about the slow down/crash. Has anyone with the early CPU boards seeing this problem? Has anyone seen it in under 20 minutes of the machine being on? Does it ever happen with not much is going on in the game? My machine #141 has had it on and off from when I got it but never with under 20 minutes of play and never when not much is happening in the game.
I wonder what a person who is not a Rick and Morty fan will think when the game ends and the machine tells them " Thanks for your money loser " when the game ends. Made me laugh but I could see it making a drunk person kick the machine.
Quoted from canea:on mine magnasave won't activate if flippers are being flipped or held.
Yes, no magna save while the right flipper is engaged. I asked about this and was told the circuit couldn't take the amperage of both at the same time.
Quoted from docquest:How tall are those?
The Rick figure is just as tall as the portal.
Quoted from bent98:So how tall is your version?
The Rick figure is 12 inches tall. Also the later machines do have a plug to easily remove the topper.
Quoted from jonesjb:I've also had a dead bumper just drop the ball in the center for a drain.
I suggested there should be no slam save when the pop bumper is disabled but was told the slam save would remain active even if the pop bumper is dead.
I'm getting flipper knock downs after the latest 03/02 update and I was not before the update. My flipper holds setting is on high . Now the left flipper can not stop the slam ring from a drain and the right is also having problems. Is there an adjustment that I should make? I have not made any adjustment to the flippers except when I got my machine I changed the flipper holds to high. I assume everyone needs the flipper hold setting on high.
Quoted from jsa2145:Did you have a small bit of knockdown before or none at all ?
like if you hold the right flipper up when the scoop ejects does it drop down 1/3 of the way or more ?
I had no knockowns before the update ( where the flipper goes all the way down). I did have some sticks before the current update where the flipper would be knocked 1/3 of the way back and stay there till there was another flip. It's like every stick is now a knockdown. I have not had the multiball bug mentioned by snanoff so far.
Quoted from SpookyCharlie:If a scoop kick out takes down a flipper, then you need to adjust your EOS.
How should I adjust the gap? More gap ? Less gap? I have feeler gauges. How big should the gap be?
Did a quick test on today's update with default settings. Flippers feel stronger then they ever have. No knockdowns! I hope no one has overheating issues as the flippers feel great. I never had any significant flipper fade (#141).
Quoted from jguzik420:The flippers go up and down on their own.
I had phantom flips too on the latest code. One lasted a couple of seconds.
Quoted from jonesjb:There are a few lines like that hidden in the game.
Is there still a call out if you don't have a ball in the garage trough and hit the skill shot to the garage?
Quoted from Ronnie1114:Just paid, #6xx bloodsucker edition.
Cool, that's the 4th R&M in Idaho that I know of.
Quoted from DanQverymuch:start Rick Potion #9, multiball, and Meseeks Mania at the same time! I barely had time to think "Here we go, time to finally really blow this mutha up!" when the game went dark and reset.
I had this happen too. I did not go dark but it just froze. Also one time on Rick Potion #9 I'm pretty sure it just ended for no reason, I for sure did not complete the mode.
Quoted from Propsnsports:Any suggestions on how to prevent it again?
Mine broke twice so I replaced the plastic with a metal flex plate. I think you can still buy them.
Anyone have the 2X blue multiplier LED stick on? It was stuck on during attract mode and after I started a new game. It have been a software problem because it was not a loose connection and reset to normal after a reboot.
I wonder if Spooky changed the model of display at some point. My machine is # 141 and did not like the washed out look. I replaced with Lg Philips Lp156wf1(tl)(b2) . Sounded to me like most people were OK with the display soon after my machine.
Quoted from sheahan2:My first NIB!!!
What's the story of where it came from. I was wondering if there would be any outside the 750 numbered edition # TEAM !
So, I have been getting some pops and screeches coming out of the audio. I think it's coming from a loose connection from the audio cable connecting to the main board. I don't see anything visually wrong with the cable. I'm trying to hold it in better with this zip tie pictured. Anyone else have this problem or other ideas?
b49 (resized).JPGThese green acrylic speaker grill enhancers look like they should have always been there. I did need to cut into them a bit to clear the carriage bolts so they would sit flat. I also touched up the area I cut into with a pen so the light looked more even. I found this Roy arcade cell phone holder that’s kinda neat.
c160 (resized).JPGc161 (resized).JPGb84 (resized).JPGb83 (resized).JPGb85 (resized).JPGb86 (resized).JPGI also experienced the topper running when it shouldn't. It stopped running when I started Mr Meeseek's multiball but then started running again for no reason.
Quoted from Rarehero:Is this a known software bug?
Yes, known bug on the latest code.
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