(Topic ID: 257850)

Official Rick and Morty Club - You are not like other carbon based life forms.

By TheNoTrashCougar

2 years ago

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84 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #256 Rules posted by Eric as of Feb 2020 Posted by epthegeek (1 year ago)

Post #510 R&M Options Posted by Morinack (1 year ago)

Post #589 Useful post for coin door comparison. Posted by NeilMcRae (1 year ago)

Post #637 More code rules - Adventures full lost Posted by epthegeek (1 year ago)

Post #745 Club thread reminder. Posted by TigerLaw (1 year ago)

Post #748 Cards for the game rules and what not. Posted by Coindropper (1 year ago)

Post #751 Darker outline for instruction cards. Posted by Coindropper (1 year ago)

Post #976 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Wireform ball launch and coil adjustment Posted by timmmmyboy (1 year ago)

Post #1006 TECH:Pitch recommendation from Scott. Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (1 year ago)

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#93 1 year ago
Quoted from manadams:

#206 here, this game is worth getting just for the Plumbus tilt, so excited!!!

"When the Plumbus is jostled, the chumbles are agitated."

#99 1 year ago

Love the way the multiball starts with the two balls falling to each flipper, then the scoop shoots the third ball between them as they're falling

The crystals look great as well!

#469 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

Don’t break your arm jerking yourself off...
Love that call out in the game! It was even funnier that it happened when Charlie was playing.

High score callout .... came up from Charlie entering "Spooky" as high score Lol

#474 1 year ago
Quoted from Alwaysbrokenpins:

Better name for this thread would have been Wubba-Lubba-Dub-Club

Instead of "Wubba lubba dub ... " (I am in great pain, please help me) .....

I thought "Totes Malotes" would have been fitting

(Totally Bad-ass)

#565 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

I thought someone posted the dimensions after it was shown ready to be boxed at spooky.
Not 100% sure but I think it was Luke maybe.
Anyone here remember that?
Should maybe be a key post?

I do recall the height being quoted in "hands" ?

#656 1 year ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

It's a really tough call isn't it? Both work really well. The black trim blending with the artwork sky makes it look integrated as opposed to "afterthought".
Another thing to love about this company is how they shared the color name / recipe a while back. So you can always go purple later on, even if you don't decide until after delivery. And as a standard buyer I appreciate being grated the potential ability!
Personally I'm thinking black trim but purple legs - both as respectively integrated extensions of the cabinet art - could be pretty sweet.

Yeah tough choice. I'm going with the "if in doubt, max it out!" Lol

Black I would generally prefer for several reasons, but I think the purple looks better overall, here's why ....

The black matches the dark sky on the font of the cab so the sky blends together with the door, but the door contrasts with the lower front of the cab. This makes it look kinda half and half, slightly odd. Like there is part of the landscape missing, and the black sky strangely extends down beyond the horizon. Just looks a little wierd due to the sky being black as well.

With the purple, the door is contrasted against the entire front, allowing it to have a "hovering" or "in front of" kinda look. Like as if the Sky And Landscape are Both "behind" the coin door. Looks more.... complete, tidy, right. Also, every other bit of trim on the game including legs and speaker panel are purple, and it seems to make the black door look a bit more out of place.

I'd like to see how it looks with purple frame and black door. But to achieve that I'd just go standard full purple door and get a spare black door to bolt in (even just for the chance the purple door panel could get kneed in on site).

Purple door option I think....

#692 1 year ago

Cardboard over screen, volume zero. Done!

#783 1 year ago

Is there the possibility for Morty to go "off the grid" when playing "Roy - a life well lived"?... like Rick does.

Like a single lit White Shot, in only one phase through Roy, that takes you off grid!

#789 1 year ago
Quoted from Coindropper:

From what Eric said on the stream, there are “Rick” shots that can take Roy off the grid. Off the top of my head, I think it was a meseeks box shot or something that will light the Rick shot (I could be wrong, but I know he said something would briefly light it).


This game is going to be pretty good ......

"Totes Malotes, Dawg!"

#815 1 year ago
Quoted from solarvalue:

Not sure why but this sounds creepy.


#911 1 year ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

Finally got a good one. Filled up adventure card and visited enough dimensions to get an extra ball![quoted image][quoted image]

What happened when you got to ten (Tenth ? ) adventures? . How did that work? ... any choices? , multiball adventure? , Morty quotes?

#1123 1 year ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

guessing most posts you are thinking of are either cliffy stlye which dont wear, but only get dirty?
or Stern style which are harder (almost plastic like rubber) that are black so you dont realize.
These are a silicone type material. A bit softer but nice feel to them.
I prefer a cliffy type material for route, but those are thicker. Wish cliffy made a slightly thinner OD style.

Superbands do slim eurethane post sleeves in a variety of colours...


#1126 1 year ago
Quoted from kermit24:

Those post rubbers look like the pinball life brand silicone which seem softer than the superbands type material. I’m not a huge fan of them because the seem to wear much earlier.

Eurethane is a tougher and harder material than silicone. More resistant to tearing. Superbands are made of Eurethane, or equivalent.

Silicone is a quite different material. The "feel" may be preferable for some, but the material is just not as durable. It gets nicked or pinched more easily. Nicks or flaws can tear more readily. It is softer and probably closer to the effect of softer rubber. "Grip" is a whole other discussion. Afaik Titans are Silicone.

These days I use almost exclusively Superbands

I might still consider using silicone or actual rubber though, on some older slower paced SS games.

#1255 1 year ago
Quoted from mbasnight:

My buddy went to tilt to play R&M and got the ball lodged good in a spot. Tilted the game and it didn’t budge the ball. Not sure if it was fluke or not because he’s not a pinhead (but I hyped up the game so much he wanted to check it), but I wanted to upload a pic I made of where he told me it got stuck. I wish he took a real pic of it.[quoted image]

No matter how many hangups are identified and sorted... ther is always one! Lol

I wonder if Eric can deal with such a rare occurence by having the ship coil fire to dislodge that ball during ball search?

1 week later
#1417 1 year ago
Quoted from SpookyLuke:

Every Rick and Morty we have built has dual leaf switches for staged flippers. I would assume someone mistakenly saw the single leaf switch for the magnet.

Is there any more details or clarification about the fuse issue preventing the magnet and Right flipper activation together?

#1500 1 year ago

I had thought this as well. Why wouldn't the launch have been able to full plunge into portal. This would make the game capable of reloading its staged re-entry ball .... if nothing else it could make sense just for this, but would have wanted a regular plunger for the skill shots.

If that's all there is to pick on... well that's pretty damn good! ... and the way it turned out is fine anyway... means we won't be needing to clutch a plumbus to squanch the ball!

#1604 1 year ago
Quoted from gac:

Maybe don't count the lowest 10 and highest 10 ratings in the overall rating. Maybe 10 isnt the right number but that would eliminate the extremes in the rating process.

10 is good! ... 10%.

Strike out the top and bottom 10%.

#1664 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

Phrasing it as trading down is confusing.
I think you're trying to say you have spot 231 and would like a spot under that, i.e. sooner, and if someone wants your spot, that has sub 231, let you know.

Totally. Mos people I think would call going to an earlier number "Trading Up".

#1810 1 year ago

The world wouldn't be the same without Jerrys ... lol

#1903 1 year ago

Seeing a pic of how the diverter is set up kinda explains to me why the orbit is a bit clunky at the top ...

#1907 1 year ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

Is it possible for the ball to hit those diverter fasteners??

That is the bit I was looking at. Shoot spinner - Ball hits screws - Rattles. Even if it doesn't hit the screws, it kinda looks like the ball can hit the leading edge of the ball guide by the pivot of the diverter.

I can not quite understand why the diverter could not have created a bit smoother/more even ball path. Can see how the ball guide bend helps stop the ball hitting that rattle ... but what happens with the right orbit then?

Instead of the bend in the ball guide, I'll probably be looking into the diverter for my game. Shim/spacer between the flap and the shaft with countersinking of the holes and countersunk screws. Two fold, bring diverter flap into line more with ball guide, and also remove fouling screw heads. Or something like that maybe, if the spinner orbit is not working smoothly.

#2002 1 year ago

I guess the "die in a cage" thread title is appropriate for the corona virus environment .... just about due for something a tad lighter, hey Scott?

1 week later
#2066 1 year ago
Quoted from tbutler6:

Just chatted with Charlie and Bug in Twitch, he said the wire form changes have been implemented. Screws out for flex and other things. Excited for this game...

How do fang club members find this stream?

#2068 1 year ago
Quoted from FuryosJustin:

I'm in on a standard too, does anyone have a guess at how many standards there are? Between 40-60??

Less than 40 afaik ?

#2070 1 year ago

Ahhh cool! Thanks!

#2165 1 year ago
Quoted from dnapac:

Curious if it stays on long term. I tried a post rubber and it just fell off after a couple balls.

It will stay on until the point where it rotates and the split is in line with the ball contact... then the ball hitting it would just pop it off.

I've used this method on other games to deaden some hard knocks in designs.

I found that by putting that slit on a decent (diagonal) angle, instead of in line with the hole in the rubber, they tend to stay on there when a ball strikes them as the rubber rotates to all positions.

#2185 1 year ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

Though I appreciate all of the inventive suggestions, though I would really like to see Spooky make a permanent improvement to the launcher setup. It feels absurd to have people who just dropped 8k+ on a new game needing to modify something so basic just to get decent performance. I’m optimistic that they’ll tweak the design based on the performance of these early batches. We’ll see....

Would have been better to use the tried and tested wireform guage of 3/16", rather than the quite flimsy looking lighter stuff there, imho.

I kinda cringe at the sugestion of bending powdercoated metal, willy nilly for "tune up", or from the ball bending it.... it isn't going to prolong the integrity of the coating

Also, after the first time a piece of metal is bent and the grain is broken, every bend or even flex there after is one step weaker that piece of metal becomes. If it is not strong enough to resist bending at the start... that condition is only going to get worse until finally something breaks.

**Not written just to be negative, or have an angsty tone. These are observations and trade knowledge. I guess various tone may be applied depending on reader.

#2188 1 year ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

It's not really a big deal. Definitely not a game breaker. It's more about making it as consistent as possible (predictable) but it certainly plays nearly as good without. If the wireform is adjusted correctly 9.5/10 times it will launch correctly. This is truly a minor tweak to make up for that .5 times where it might get some extra topspin and roll up into the return shot. It's pinball. Things should be predictable to a certain extent, but the opposite is also true. I'm not sweating it and anyone waiting for their games shouldnt either. This is just a "fine tune."

IF the wire(form) is not substantial enough to maintain its shape or "setting" during gameplay .... well then it will not be consistent, will it. Bending wireform ramps shouldn't be done after powdercoating. They should be made the shape they need to be to work properly, then get the coating. The end.

From someones post earlier, seems the wireform bends from gamplay launches and/or from ball activity during gameplay... if this is accurate then how can there be consistency?

I don't mind tinkering either. I'm a fitter and machinist and tech. But I am not everybody. Also if the wireform is not substantial enough... well that is more than just tinkering, it's replacment.

#2194 1 year ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I'm not going to argue with you. Im just explaining why I'm doing the things I'm doing. I am telling you that 95% of the time, the ball will launch correctly. It's pinball. Every new game needs adjustment.

I agree new games it is expected to require Adjustments, of course!. Bending leaf switches is adjustment. Adjusting fittings or adjustable hardware is adjustment. I am drawing the line at Bending wireforms that are powdercoated though. This shouldn't suddenly be called "normal" or required for an 8k pinball machine.

B/W used 3/16" wire for a reason I suppose ....

Some bits are over engineered, some may be under engineered. It happens.

Thin easily bendable wire I suppose makes things a bit less costly... but sometimes I care more about quality....

Not about arguing, just quoting. Merely for reference, and highlighting the issues of bending flexible wire coated in non flexible powdercoat. Completely valid concerns, could keep them to myself but then what is the point of forums?. The wireform looks a bit on the flimsy and weak side, and people are having dramas, supposedly "fixed" (temporarily?) by bending a PowderCoated wireform?

It's fine for me I can just make a bespoke improved wireform (should it come to pass that I need to lateron)... but I am no manufacturer so wouldn't be making one for everybody Lol. Just trying to highlight a potentially bigger issue, early, for the benefit of Everyone, including Spooky!

#2196 1 year ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

I would like to see either a modification or aftermarket option for a wireform end like this with some modification.
Basically so the ball hits 2 wires and the end. The top wire is slightly closer and directs the ball consistently down to shot delivery.
The wires that the ball rolls on and the single stop ring will need adjustment over time and allow for some inconsistency/ need for tweak by end user based on the pitch and level of their game and shooter delivery speed.[quoted image]

Constructive criticism doesn't mean any of us aren't loving the game Spooky has made... I'm more excited than ever about a Pinball!

Quoted from dnapac:

I haven’t noticed the wireform bending with gameplay...but would admit it does need some refinement. Wife and I have played between 500-600 games. I’d say, more than almost anyone. It’s early. I have an early game because I like the challenge to improve. Those that want a dialed-in game are later. All complainers have no complaint for months to come. Not sure why there’s so much angst...when you’re months out and the early ones are the guinea pigs (me). If anyone can complain...that’s me...and I’m not. This is a winner...and if you don’t think so, there are many waiting for a spot.

Sorry if I seemed "angsty", I'm not. I'm mega excited, and would love to be in early to help with ironing out any kinks, but being overseas I wait in suspense for the group container. Also grateful to all those with games helping out in this regard. I hope that feedback I might give from so many pictures, videos, and text might be of some use, potentially. In the world of pinball, so far this game has a remarkably short list of "issues". Rick and Morty looks to me like it will be one of the GOAT pinball games! .... way to go Spooky!

#2197 1 year ago

Just to help picture my relatively minor concern...

image-22 (resized).jpg

image-14 (resized).jpg

Padded and unpadded proven wire ramp end designs.


1fc307d2edcbec3f86ef3c536735b5715a3322f0 (resized).jpg

Rick and morty wire ramp end.


The guage isn't the main issue I am seeing. Mostly it is that the ends are unsupported and can bend with airballs or Harder launches, and also vibrate with the nature of the game of pinball. Coupled with the "adjustment" which is likely, fatigue is going to eventuate, the question being time. I fear the wires could later crack at any of the four red marks. I imagine a very simple solution can solve all the existing and potential issues, that would be to add a final half hoop to the end of the wireform, scribbled in purple. It can then be made so that it maintains correct manufacturer (functional) "adjustment" for the life of the game.

0ce1ec4e552d5a8ca2fb1e299dde61fc94671b54 (resized).jpeg

I understand the intention may have been to give a minimalist feel, or to improve visibility?. But, I think the small additional obstruction to the view is needed, more than the tiny amount of extra ball visibility.

Also, for production, the rubber at the end. I wonder if it could be an idea that Spooky might dip the tip of the end hoop in purple dipping plastic/rubber coat? ... this might be to protect from powdercoat chipping as much as anything...

#2265 1 year ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

epthegeek are you exploring ways to use the horseshoe toy to manipulate a ball in different ways for modes? Or is it pretty much reserved for locks? I’m not sure how you could already be holding balls for multiball for the current or another player.

I have been wondering about this too. Heres some of my thought or speculation...

For any adventures to be able to make full use of the horseshoe, they would need to be locked out any time there are balls in lock. Also, locked balls may need to treated like "bank a ball", where if a player drains with a locked ball then their locked ball(s) are released, so that each ball in play ends with empty locks for the next player/ball.

This way, horseshoe modes (adventures) may be started only when no balls are locked.

Would this lead to some players avoiding locks, to go for a chance at some lucrative special adventure?

Competitive players would be happy to see empty locks at the end of each BIP, I'm sure. Although for me I like the stealing locks concept.

Rick and Morty seems to be tough enough that "bank a ball" should not make things too much easier... ?

I really have no idea what will pan out of course. Just thoughts

#2354 1 year ago

The only issue/question I see that I think needs addressing for the Upper Spinner Orbit, besides removing the two guide screws, is the "rattle" that Regularly rejects the ball back down to return through the spinner again. For Sweetly placed valid shots.

Way too regularly I'm watching "perfect" shots to the spinner fly past it and rip it good, only to brick on some aspect of the diverter transition, and finally dribble back to the spinner. Perfect shots should not be rejected with such frequency.

It is in the streams. All of them.

#2355 1 year ago
Quoted from dnapac:

The adjustments have definitely helped, but 30-40% of the time I rip the spinner the ball gets to the top of the loop and the slowly trickles back. Diverter seems to work fine. Are others guides bent like this and do others have that triangular plastic (laying flat on the playfield). The plastic seems to be protecting the playfield from the diverter, but it sticks out into the lane...is this normal?
[quoted image]

Lol .... yeah, what he said!

I was looking at the screws in the diverter and or the step from the diverter pivot to the right ball guide that meets with it.

Countersunk screws and a flush surface maybe?

Alignment of diverter with the right ball guide?

It is hard to tell with no physical game present and only pictures, of course.

#2358 1 year ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Why is that crimp at the top of the inner orbit, I'm guessing it's necessary? That seems to me what may be causing the rattle at the top of the upper orbit.

My assumption would be that it may be to do with directing the ball path away from that diverter "rough spot" that I described.

Problem I see there is the way things get very unsmooth when the diverter is closed for the right orbit past spinner.

I can't wait to get my game!! ... partly so I can fiddle (I like tinkering lol)

#2363 1 year ago
Quoted from jhoward1082:

Are anyone else’s post rubbers getting obliterated extremely fast? A couple of mine are already turning black and getting torn up after 2 days...

Switch to urethane. I never looked back, wish I'd discovered the material for pinball rubbers sooner.

#2367 1 year ago
Quoted from dnapac:

Mine lasted around 500 games. Then I replaced them with Cliffy post sleeves...really loving them.

"SuperBands" are another urethane option. Between Cliffys and Superbands there is a huge variety of shapes and colours available.

#2372 1 year ago
Quoted from kklank:

Yelobird made the adjustments he talked about earlier on my game and now it plays with some good flow. I’ve had ir for a couple weeks and just finally pulled it out of the box today. It played like a total pig before the adjustments with left and right orbits rattling and not hitting inner loop or very infrequently due to upper flipper not line up properly with the steel guide.
I rarely believe anything you say anyway because you’re always saying how great Spooky is and trying to get everyone else to drink the kool aid. I like Spooky but they gotta straighten this stuff out for the other people down the line because the geometry was not spot on imo. There’s no doubt about it.
I never seen these kind of adjustments made before on a game once purchased but I’m sure Spooky will make those adjustments. They’re good people.
But this should’ve never happened.....

Not all of the adjustments, particularly the more severe ones, are required to make the game play well. At least that is the way it looks to me.

Seems all issues, including the rattles at the diverter, can be rectified with very minor tweaks, including but not limited to leaving out the superfluous screws.

Some of the adjustments pictured and described are simply way over the top and altering the intention of the game, I think. jmho.

#2375 1 year ago
Quoted from kklank:

Be more specific please. What adjustments are the “severe ones”?

I would say drilling new screw holes ... but it's just from my observation of streams, and knowing what mods had been done to the machine in the given stream.

After removing the surplus screws, adjusting within the boundaries of the guide slotted holes, and maybe some minor tweaking/altering of bends in the guides ... game plays very well.

Only question, the rattling at the diverter maybe. But this looks like it can be made good with a well adjusted ball guide, but might also vary with playfield pitch ....

I'm providing thoughts and feedback. I don't have a game yet so no trials or definitive answers here.

I won't be putting new screw holes in my playfield, that much I know. Just me though.

Removing lights from the playfield because they no longer fit, to me is a distinct sign that things have gone a bit too far .... ?

#2377 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

What lights were removed missed that post? Guess you will see when you get your game and set it up to your preference. All anyone is doing is showing you what you can do if you would like to improve it. As for “just removing a screw”, it’s 18ga stainless steel not rubber. Removing a single or over several screws will not make it suddenly bow as a ball passes. Trust me I tried that lol. All good and loving the game now.

Quoted from Troz:

I had to loosen the wood rail to get the post underneath for the curvature I wanted, plus I had to remove one LED :/

8th & 9th pics.

I think you'll find the removing screws is allowing movement you can't notice, but is there.

Consider a hard steel ball on a hard solid steel block. If you drop the ball on it, the ball will bounce. The energy is sent back. No real "give", but the material is still "springy".

Then the same hard steel ball dropped on a hard steel sheet, overhanging and Not supported from below (the impact zone)..... the impact of the ball, the energy, is absorbed in the movement, or "give". A dead blow, that doesn't "bounce" (or bounces Significantly less, at least).

By screwing the fairly thick ball guides down with many screws makes a "rigid" and less giving wall. It is firm, and energy returns to the ball, "bouncing" it off the guide.

Now take a heap of screws out so that some flex can absorb/store energy as the ball impacts, meaning it would bounce less on the guide (if at all), and follow it. The guide returns gradually after the End of Impact, with some energy gradually being returned to the ball on gradual return to shape. ie. less per rate than the centrifugal force holding it against the guide.

Someone else described it quite adequately a few pages back. Repeated here with different words. The impact is dampened, spread. There is a "time" consideration that varies too, absorption, duration, reflection, stuff, things ... Lol

I'm all on board with some screws being deleted, especially when it is endorsed by the engineer responsible for the game.

I don't think radical ball guide alterations are warranted at all.

#2379 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

..... I don’t think you’ll see the give you are assuming.

Trust me I am not assuming about that. Period.

As I said, you may Not "See" a difference. But the fact is that there is substantial difference. As is evident as well in the streams/videos, with different playfield setups. The shots to the spinner start to work better as the ball gets less bounce (without the screws). Not me saying that, just physics, and the streams. Just because You Cant see momentary degrees of "flex" doesn't mean it isn't happening (more), and affecting the way the orbit behaves, to the point where it then proves to work more often than not.

Modifying the layout so drastically, to make sooooooo Easy?? ... not the path I'll be going. But that's just my preference. People can do as they desire with their games, ultimately.

#2384 1 year ago
Quoted from kklank:

So let me get this straight. Do you actually own a game yet?
Or are you just talking from an engineering perspective?
Because if you don’t own a game yet, give it a rest. Seriously.
Where are you from by the way???it doesn’t say under your Avatar. Just want to make sure you’re not another dude from Wisconsin protecting the Spooky name.

Sorry, I did not realise most people couldn't see my location. Fixed

Game or no game does not change the way stuff and things are, mate.

The game stands up fine from what I have seen, without outrageous modification. That's just my reasoned opinion. Love it! ... Can't Wait!!!

#2393 1 year ago
Quoted from kklank:

Game or no game? Really?
Good lord.
This is simply ridiculous.
Remind me to buy my next game based off your recommendation of what you see in a video. Lmao.
Sorry mate. Not happening.

Having a game or not is irelevant to the question at hand. Take a chill pill there, bud.

I've paid for a game. Pull your head in.

#2396 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

So with your engineer view, can we agree that the #whysnow game Hole is in a Completely Different location to the (3) games we have? Seems pretty obvious to me?

Tbh I haven't followed that aspect of the discussion just yet? .... I was just pointing out that from my observations of stream gameplay, which is no less visibility of flow than real life, just removing the screws alone makes sufficient improvement. That's observation of what happened. The part that is my view, is that it is enough (just removing the screws) to be playable/enjoyable. To me severe alterations, like in the order of half an inch, are "hacks".

If people reason that they want to drill new holes wherever, it is their option to do that. I will just go with the holes provided by Spooky.

I'd have to try to understand what the point is around the image you're talking about ....

#2403 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Totally agree on that rail. No question as its very long and that does help. We are discussing?? the center loop.

Same principle exactly. Just the depth that varies!

#2405 1 year ago

Someone else's game?

I'm confused... have we read all the same responses?

I'm not going to speak for origins of stuff and things that other people post.

Railgate! .. 2020's storm in a teacup! Lol

#2408 1 year ago

Do we know any more about the defraculation grenades in Purge? ... how are they used?

#2429 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Just trying to help others. I tap out. lol Going to watch the Troz gameplay video tonight and see if I can figure out how he gathers so many dam seeds!

Umm ... by making the spinner shot to Charge Portal a Gimme. Next question.

How about if Spooky just make it an option.... one layout for pinballers, and the optional "easy" layout for any seal flippers that want a gimme game....

I trust the Spooky team to analyse the thread and other info, be it sense or nonsense ... make any changes they see fit, and deliver us/me another fantastic game!

#2431 1 year ago
Quoted from dnapac:

Trust me...it’s far from “easy”, and with 17 plus dimensions, I think it’s not suppose to be a rarity to make.

The problem of the shot being made does not appear to be to do with the rail below the spinner (where radical changes have been made), that is improved well enough by removing screws from what I have seen. The rattle at the diverter transition that stops clean shots, is the issue that was remaining in the 14th April stream. That would get frustrating when it happens so often.

I'm confident I will be extremely happy with what I pull out of the Spooky box.

#2445 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Why is it you make this so personal? We are trying to help?? You are free to have your opinion but WE have games so I suspect our facts might be of a bit more value. No? You disagree, thats fine. Really odd how defensive you are about factual help. Not one person said anything bad about the game or company. I sincerely hope Spooky makes minor changes to the build so you don't have to do anything.

It's not personal. It is about Rick and Morty.

I have no problem doing mods. My concern is for any customers that do.

My opinion is the radical rail repositioning is just that... radical. Whom does it? ... I don't care. It's nothing personal.

It could change the difficulty of the gameplay so much that the intention of the coding might be undermined. Scores are no longer comparable. No wonder some people can get dozens of megaseeds and others can not, besides player skill.

I'm guessing, but I suppose the 99 megaseeds is a number that is not intended to be realistically reachable?. Suddenly 99 won't be enough for well practiced players. What would you do to solve this? ... as more often players can collect 495% of their ball score? Lol

Rattling up the top is a different issue, in a different area of the playfield. Radical hacks still not required though.

You are the one making it personal. Unfortunately.

#2448 1 year ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

It’s the inner loop shot. Lit arrow is blue if you have any. Make the shot and it kills the farthest right local with a bit of bonus points added in.

We did get some insight into defraculation grenades at least! Thank you Eric

#2449 1 year ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

Yes, but people are pulling the outside rail away, which changes the arc and path of the ball. I’m just saying you should make sure that as the ball rolls on that outer rail it still activates the switch. Software needs the ball to register there in either direction to work right.

878787051bb188d9328ee804a035eacd89a0c246 (resized).jpg

IF the game in the most recent JD stream was modified like this, it could certainly be a plausible explanation for why so many upper orbit shots were not registering.... frequently happened throughout the Stream.

I guess it could also simply have a defective switch ...

#2452 1 year ago

e6650669ddc2438de511b16236298bc89c85c81c.jpeg (resized).jpg

If this is the pic that everyone is having a cow over for some reason, to me it looks exactly like the original spooky hole is hidden beneath the bracket. This doesn't seem to be showing the original screw hole, or position. You can even see marks on the playfield through the uncovered slot, not white clean wood. Like where the toe of the flange used to be clamped against the playfield, at original assembly. The old screw hole would be just out of visibility.

That's just what I see compared to all the other stock photos. Most all others are in a very consisten position from what I see. I'm just looking at this picture of kinda unknown origins.

#2455 1 year ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

That’s your hypothesis. We don’t actually know that there is an original hole there or if these are two different original placements of the screw.
No one is having a cow, we’re asking questions and trying to just understand more.

I was asked what I thought, that's all. What I think, is that it is a picture of a game that has had a screw moved already. That's it. Maybe I'm wrong. Just the observation that was asked for.

People actually are "having a cow" . Assuming, that spooky can't get consistency of better than half inch?.

Or do some people think they were just trying random layout variations/positions? ... after prototype? ... in production? Really?

... and when there is clear evidence that the upper orbit can already be easy enough made 6 times in a row Without making any new screw holes, hmmmm, this layout "redesign" is completely un-necesary. ie, proves to be basicaly achieving nothing additional than what removing screws and minor bending achieves anyway.... pointless.

I digress ...

More likely, the screw in an unexplained spot is just some confused pinsiders, making poorly informed assumptions, about random pictures... whilst making mountains out of molehills. Lol

#2458 1 year ago
Quoted from docquest:

So many new posts since I was last on. I thought new code came out with new modes or something but it's just more "rail-gate" LOL.
That mystery pic was actually mine from over a month ago that someone else scribbled a bunch if lines on.
It all started when I was trying to see what I could do to make the inner loop shot less clunky. I noticed that the rail had a slotted end so I experimented with moving it all the up vs all the way down. Some were suggesting moving it all the way up to increase the curvature of the rail. I thought that was a very bad idea since it would let the ball hit the exposed metal rail edge and ding up the ball. Based on previous posts it sounds like some pinsiders are experiencing this.
Soon after this, Scott was on Kaneda's show explaining how to provide more flexibility to the rail guide by removing it's two middle tab screws. This helped but in my case it helped even more if I also increased curvature of the rail by moving the bottom mounting tab location just a little bit. Yes I (gasp!), made a new screw hole. I "drastically" and "radically" altered the rail guide position LOL.
[quoted image]
All three of the shots I adjusted (garage, inner loop, upper flipper) seem to follow the same pattern. If the rail follows the artwork on the playfield it shoots much better. Here's an example of my garage shot rail before and after. It shoots way smother when the rail follows the curve of the playfield art.
[quoted image]

Thank you for clearing that up!

A few sceptical pinsiders might now be able to find confidence that Spooky can actually provide consistently positioned screws.

#2461 1 year ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Looks like your hypotheses was correct. Well done.

It was evidence based

I'm inspired to go hack up my Getaway to make that pesky upper loop a bit easier!

#2476 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

just curious, what's your getaway loop record?
mine is 6 loops and I can honestly say I repeat the loop 2/3 times a lot or with no problem. When its more it always amazes me and feels so great/rewarding because of the speed!

About the same for me!. I had 5 loops but that was beaten some time ago by my mate, it's been 7 for ages! ... and, Exactly! . Challenge, satisfaction when you Do get it within the tight window. Especially when it's for a jackpot. However, get the shot a bit too far off and, although it is well within the opening, it rattles and fails.

It's the same with RaM. If you hit that HS2 upper guide rail in the wrong spot it simply fails. Interesting that loose screws makes HS2 shot more makable as well

If you hit Ram in the wrong spot, of course it will fail too. This is the point. It is the style of opening that the shot has. A shot that looks Super Wide, but really is not. Still easily makable, and repeatable in standard form by removing 2 screws.... just, you aren't supposed to be going to nail that sucker as a given. Same as HS2. The target is not clear, and needs to be learned. Watch a new player try to shoot HS2 upper orbit. It only happens by accident in the first instances.

The satisfaction we are speaking of, rewarding feeling of making the TOUGH shot.... for Most pinball players it would no longer exist, because now we can do it with no eyes like tommy! Lol

It isn't "railgate" either is it, it's more appropriately described as "hackgate" .... since there is nothing that much at all wrong with the rail positions, realistically. From observation. Just people going to extremes to make a game suit themselves. Which is fine (for them).

*to clarify, It Was a Sarcastic comment about hacking the crap out of my getaway, I prefer shots that are intended to be a bit tough in a game, to remain a chalkenge, and remain satisfying for me when I complete them. Just in case anyone Assumed I was maybe Complaining about HS2 layout, I'm not, I love its challenges.

#2479 1 year ago
Quoted from kklank:

You certainly have all the answers.

... that sounds a bit like the pot calling the kettle black. I'm not actually hacking up a game to make it "right" or "how it should be". Lol

I'm just pointing out what is in my opinion the complete nonsense of it all.

You don't have to concur. You can still do as you wish, of course, as long as every other buyer does not have to recieve a cakewalk game, just to suit what might seem to be a minority "preference".

Maybe the game hack information/posts would be more appropriate in the general RaM thread?

#2487 1 year ago
Quoted from kklank:

Quoted from TigerLaw:
The first production game has been delivered. Club thread now opened. Abide by club thread rules, keep drama in the hype thread and out of this thread. Stay upbeat and positive. Thanks

That means Not bagging and hacking a game, preaching it's no good out of the box, making radical unnecesary mods and pretending they are going to be essentially needed to make the game "good". That is Rubbish.

#2490 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Just ignor it and Eventually he will find some other crusade. Lol. On that, have you tilted the game Yet?? Funniest tilt in all of pinball!

You say that as if I'm the only person that enjoys a challenge... Lol

You're right... time to -Ignore-

I've said my bit. I'm sure others may have thought about it too, except they're probably smarter than me, and know not to get into debates about academic issues, discussing nonsense, with some whom proclaim to know no better than The Design(er), or science.

Okay then. Carry on

#2494 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Thanks Eric!! Ok I am a bit slow on the good vs bad Meeseeks? I think that is what was tripping me up if anyone knows.

Quoted from epthegeek:

Good meeseeks [multiplier] is total number of active meeseeks +1 (good or bad, as long as the one on the shot is good).

Bad meeseeks [divisor] is total number of bad meeseeks +1.

So it seems that All meeseeks contribute to the Multiplier value, but only Bad meeseeks contribute to the Divisor value.

The multiplier/divisor is for only the shot that the meeseek is on.

Don't let all 3 go bad! .... that jackpot might get divided by 4

#2496 1 year ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Yes, this is smart because it adequately incentivizes the risk vs reward. The good Meeseeks maintain and build their value, as long as you don’t wait too long.
It would be frustrating to get 3 meeseeks, have two go bad and the remaining good one only be worth 2x. Why even bother? With the way it’s been implemented, this remaining good meeseeks will still give you that 4x value.

So it appears the strategy would be, if you have mixed meeseeks, to shoot the good first as the salty meeseeks still builds to the multiplier. Then collect salty meeseeks once happy meeseeks are collected. Collecting salty meeseeks or drain seems to be the only way to get rid of them. Or .... hit another meseeks box and use the salty sod to boost the new good meeseeks?

#2539 1 year ago

Just because an owner is modifying a machine does not automatically mean that whatever "modifications" they may be making are reasonable, or actually required, at all.

To them, they may be "required" so they they can enjoy Their game in their Way, that is their personal choice. Majority of others seem to be having no problem making the shots, at all. Tough games are of course not to the enjoyment of all kinds of players or levels, but at the end of the day this is supposed to be a Tough game. That's all.

Quoted from hawkmoon:

So,as we all can see,many owners are already modifying a brand new pin!It seems other adjustments must also be made! And no,I don't have my pin yet,will be next year before #499 hits the assembly line!

#2593 1 year ago
Quoted from jhoward1082:

I’m curious, considering there will be a minimum of 10 adventures (modes) I’m assuming and hopefully many more than that (fingers crossed) is there any thought to eventually making what adventure you start user selectable instead of always random? It would help a lot with strategy to be able to start total rickall with multiball for example as opposed to roy. It would also allow you to redo adventures and/or avoid other ones. What are other people’s thoughts?

Morty (player) gets to choose every tenth adventure on the Morty Adventure Card. That's how the show goes

I think the number lit on the card at game start has some adjustment?, which setting that to 9 or so may achieve what you desire? ... if when it is supported

#2606 1 year ago

Noticed the font at the end ... is that Judgment Day?

#2639 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Man I need to learn how to play better....

Aint that the truth!

#2694 1 year ago

Heard a roumour Wisconsin supreme court ruled lockdown invalid? .... does this mean Spooky will be able to get the line running again sometime soon?

1 week later
#2827 1 year ago
Quoted from davisjl1979:

Yup. I read every post as well.

#2906 1 year ago

Phases shifting, thanks to a phaser...

It's like when there's a twin engine aircraft aproaching and the engines are running slightly different revolutions ... amplification/attenuation cycle of certain matched/unmatched frequencies, that can affect note/tone also.

1 week later
#3012 1 year ago
Quoted from Blackzarak:

Even better news I just got a called today saying it will arrive this Tuesday between 12-4 Ooh yeah.. now I’m debating on keeping it or just selling it to have money and space for the possibility of new JJP pin ...Damm to many good pins coming out this year

Don't do it Jerry!!!

#3036 1 year ago
Quoted from Edenecho:

Cant read all posts for the last months here, so just asking;
With the physical fixes being done to Rick n Morty after delivery, for example the fixes Karl Deangela has done to make the game play butter smooth, is this fixes that will be now done in production for the games being produced in the factor?

All that is needed, Spooky will be doing.

#3045 1 year ago
Quoted from Krsmith9:

Without spoilers, I liked the season finale, but I hope they use something else for the final wizard mode. They said they were waiting for end of season to decide what to do for the wizard mode.

How about no one specific "adventure" ... but instead you just start Ricks wizard mode "Rule The Multiverse" ? Lol

.... Rick, Morty, Squanchy and Birdperson!? ... take on The Galactic Federation

#3049 1 year ago
Quoted from arzoo:

Do we know this for sure, that Spooky has made more aggressive tweaks?

No the "more agressive tweaks" are extra layout modifications made by one or two owners, but not necesary. Spooky and Scott have said they will delete excessive screws.

Refer to post by dnapac...

Quoted from dnapac:

I tried a lot of the fixes. Moved the upper flipper, various movements and fixes to the spinner lane guide, etc. in the end, all that’s needed is the removal of a couple screws in the guide. This makes it more flexible when the ball goes around the lane. Even Scott admitted he over built the guide. As far as I know, this is the only physical change Spooky is doing, and the only physical change that is needed (in my 700+ game play experience). This is such a fun game to play! My wife and I can’t stop playing it...and our other pins (except ACNC) get very few plays per week now. You all are gonna love this pin!!

#3119 1 year ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

Okay, so I had heard of R&M in the past but never watched it. Then the announcement of the machine by Spooky. That got me into watching the series with my GF’s 16 yo daughter. She loves the show now as do I.
Now I am starting to watch the streams of people playing the machine and wonder if I should have put down a deposit.
I love the lights and sound effects. The call outs are great. And they did a good job including video shots from the show.
For fans of R&M, this is a great game. Now I am wondering if I should buy someone’s spot. I presume they are all sold by now.

Someone selling just a few posts back there too!

#3138 1 year ago
Quoted from Coindork:

Because every Rick has a vat of acid.

Nailed it!

#3172 1 year ago
Quoted from rai:

What is Stern doing with the JP topper??

From the post seems it might be a mode(s) that is only available with the topper installation/purchase?

#3214 1 year ago

Rocky and Bullwinkle

Quoted from epthegeek:

Yes, it's not new. TFTC had it and some other game I can't remember off hand.

#3232 1 year ago
Quoted from luvthatapex2:

I remember it in Last Action Hero too. Very fun Eric! Good job.
Thanks for streaming the latest code Bowen, but also for your excellent rules commentary. It was nice to see the Meeseeks Mania running alone so you could see more of it and hear the rules for the new MB.

Indeed. Great stream, I really like Bowens videos and commentary. Holding the ball too long in Whirly Dirly: "Hurry the [email protected]# UP!" LOL

Also after all this time, just realised that the prototype had Jerry on the middle target..... obviously Jerry was moved to the bottom where he belongs!

#3237 1 year ago
Quoted from Pmaino:

Quick question for the club here. Is anyone having a good amount of air balls off the ramps? As I inspected the screws on my ramps it looks like they might be a bit too big as they don’t sit flush with the ramp. I’m afraid to screw them down any further as the screws are already showing through on the underside of the playfield. If the left most screw on the left ramp were to be screwed down any further it would not allow the ball to Travel through the subway. Here are a few pictures. I had to remove the right screw bc it was really bad on the right ramp.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

The screw head is close to the edge, the screw would have to sit proud a fair way before the ball would be able to touch it. Have you tried putting a ball against the edge of the ramp above the screw to see how much clearance, or if the ball actually can touch it?

#3243 1 year ago
Quoted from Pmaino:

Of course I understand you can turn down the power of the flipper, this wasn’t my issue. I noticed the ball would hit the screw and send it flying. Just trying to find out if the screw installed was accidentally too big. No need for the sarcasm. The game is awesome just trying to fix this problem.

Yea I tried this and the ball actually touches the screw when I run it over the ramp.

Is the side of the screw head catching on the ramp flap and pulling it down with it? .... the screw head should clear the cutout in the ramp flap, and not catch on it. Just another thought

Where you have your finger on the ramp flap, looks like should be a bit straighter curve meybe? ... the flap edge appears to be lifted where it meets the playfield in that pic.

#3245 1 year ago

It might have just needed to be screwed down a little more. The screw would be tight before it comes down tight on the ramp, the plain unthreaded section before the head does that, and helps stop it coming loose.

Hard to say without being there really... but I think it is unlikely that you have different screws there than every other game.

#3287 1 year ago
Quoted from guitarded:

Yep - just asking questions.

You missed the kicker .... ie.

#3291 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Why is that? It’s a skill just like every other pinball skill. It’s not random or pure luck. Is it too easy once you get the hang of it?

According to a large proportion of people it is not in the general spirit of the game. Same as slide saves and bang backs. It's a grey area though, and subjective.

#3314 1 year ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

I wonder if there would be a knocker dimension?

Oh please yes! ... that would be up there with the wilhelm and TNA dimensions!

#3356 1 year ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

Looks like just bending the hood of the scoop down would have taken care of it also. ???
That is the very first thing I do on any scoop I am adjusting.

I agree. On my TNA scoop rejects happened quite a bit if your shot was not well on target. But the scoop still worked 100% if your aim was true. Never woried about it for a long time, just tried to play better instead. Then when fitting the pink protectors I examined the scoop and its wear markings, and tested the ball in the scoop opening whilst noting the angles and geometry that were at play. The scoop was very high and straight, it appeared that the misaligned shot would just bounce against the back of the scoop, and the ball would then roll a lap around the top of the opening in the playfield.

I personally as a tradesman would never want my scoop mech mounted on washers for one thing (especially unevenly or on an angle/skew), nor lowered down below the stock mech height. I did however decide on "tweaking" the curve of the scoop. After bending the scoop down quite a bit, at the strategic zone, even the really off shots that probably shouldn't make it go in there quite easily now. Washers not required at all for mine, and with the bend it is now noob-noob easy to make. Even though I'm not real consistent, and miss totally, alot! Lol

#3399 1 year ago
Quoted from MikeS:

I think it would be a bad idea to have a dimension for an optional accessory. Same goes for a shaker dimension. I think either should be used to give extra feedback or effects as intended.

To many people a knocker is not an optional accesory for pinball. If some people do not like knockers that is fine too. A knocker dimension would not be a bad idea at all. People that don't like real knockers can just have the fake boobs, I mean knockers, when in that dimension. No problem! .... or order a real knocker. Easy

I will definately not be having a shaker in my game. Does that mean there should not be a shaker dimension?? . No. It does not. Shaker dimension can still exist with or without a real shaker connected, shaker go "BRRRRRRR" , just the same as fake knockers. Spooky sub probably would out do a shaker using effects, anyway Lol. You don't want it real, cool ... does not make it a bad idea, or not worth doing, for everyone else. Most people.

#3402 1 year ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

Man, git outta here wit dis trash. R&M ain’t got no fake knocker noise. No knocker - no knock.

That's a good thing!... not many things in pinball more irritating than that horrible fake screeching noise that some mobs substitute for reality. Better off with nothing at all if one doesn't want a physical knocker, than some god awful sfx.

#3403 1 year ago
Quoted from MikeS:

Agree to disagree then. I just don't see what would be cool about a dimension that shakes the hell out of your game. And if you dont have a shaker I guess it would do nothing? It just doesn't seem creative for the ruleset. And knocker dimension is a sure fire way to tick off others in your household. And making loud noises just doesn't seen strategic. The game already has the Wilhelm Scream dimension.

Are you being serious?? ... Pmsl

I agree that shakers just rattle the crap out of your game for no good reason, and are for the most part highly over rated in my opinion. The machine doesn't create enough fatigue and loose fittings on it's own by nature

Knockers though, and noise, are par for Pinball.... well, to Most people anyway.

#3427 1 year ago
Quoted from SpookyLuke:

I believe this playfield as it leaves the factory is the most durable playfield in pinball right now. It has even made huge leaps and bounds since ACNC. I truly do believe that! We don't handle playfield protectors at this time but we have talked about it!

I'd go a playfield protector if it were an option.

#3460 1 year ago
Quoted from MikeS:

I wouldn't put a playfield protector on this game even if it was free. It simply doesn't need one and will play better without it. The amount of dimpling is perfectly acceptable.

Subjective opinion there.

It is Much easier to fit during assembly than requiring a customer that wants one fitted to dismantle their game before playing it.

Charge what it costs, and the upmark, is there a reason why this should not be an option if alot of owners wanted it?

#3465 1 year ago
Quoted from MikeS:

You're not wrong. I just know that I'd never put one in a Spooky game because it would make it less fun to play. Does JJP still offer to do this from the factory or did they stop? If they stopped I wonder what the reason for doing so was?

Doesn't make it less fun at all for me. Maybe all protectors or instalations are not equal.

Subjective, again.

Playfield protectors have been great for me, anyway.

#3507 1 year ago
Quoted from jbigdoggf:

Could spooky Mylar in the factory for a charge ?

Same argument for protectors.

#3579 1 year ago
Quoted from The_Casual:

Honestly, I can't decide between a purple or black door. I'm seeing a lot of unboxings with black doors and then a couple of purples pop up - is there anything I'm missing on deciding on a door color or is everyone having this much trouble?

If you can't decide, go Kalaxian. Later if it isn't to your liking, black door much easier to get than a Kalaxian door, I guess. I'm going Kalaxian for that reason, maybe later on a black door with Kalaxian Purple frame would look good?

I'm not getting the DBV option though, I'd much rather have the "Peace Among Worlds"decal, and I have no use for the DBV slot anyway.

#3582 1 year ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Go purple, aesthetically it will work better. Trust me. I can give a breakdown of why, if necessary, but it’s the clear winner.

Have to agree. To me the black door looks a little out of place. Of course, it is still a subjective thing.

I think part of it is the lack of contrast between the black door, and the black cabinet front. But the bottom of the black door contrasts against the lower coloured part of the cab. The purple frame seems to make things look better to me, outlining the whole door rather than just the bottom half of it, and meshing better with the other purple armor as well.

#3588 1 year ago
Quoted from MikeS:

I like the Kalaxian color but the black plastic coin insert/returns contrast with it and bring too much attention to the coin door IMO. The black is just more subtle and blends in with the rest of my line-up. But it's great to have options for those that prefer the Kalaxian color. I also like the look of the DBV door over the one with the sticker (even if you don't add anything in the DBV slot), but that's just aesthetics.
[quoted image][quoted image]

73e767a894cf0c84b0e6bf3552021cec91b6eebc (resized).jpg

Another possible combination.

#3632 1 year ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

There is a legit market for a cliffy type material in a thinned OD.

Also there is a product already available! .


SuperBandsPost (resized).jpg

Effectively the same material as cliffys, polyurethane. 11mm dia.

PBL actually supply SuperBands, but not the full range it seems?.

I treat cliffys and superbands the same, and take it as a wider variety, broader range of sizes to choose from by browsing through both catalogues.

#3634 1 year ago

I think these are the same, but all dimensions are listed here:


"Green gloss polyurethane Super-Bands™ bumper post sleeve is 1/4 Inner Diameter x 7/16 Outer Diameter x 1-1/16 inches tall (6.35mm ID x 11.113mm x 26.9875mm height)."

SuperBand 11mm OD post green (resized).jpg

SuperBand 11mm OD post (resized).jpg

They also make the Bell Bumper cone shaped rubbers you find on games like sys11 etc. in polyurethane.

These are the kind of post sleves I would like to see, rather than silicone. On the posts at least. It seems like they are available from PBL?

For me it isn't too hard to do the upgrade. Just poking at one of the rare opportunities to make Spooky games even better!.

#3639 1 year ago

Maybe this could make the option list?

Polyurethane Rubbers - $35

They are a little more pricey than silicone generally. Also some may prefer the play of the standard issue silicone over the durable but hard polyurethane. It is certainly an option I would opt in for.

#3665 1 year ago
Quoted from Dantesmark:

.... maybe im just a wierdo.[quoted image]

Don't be so hard on yourself!

#3676 1 year ago

I noticed these are described as being "Not glow-in-the-dark" ... despite being called "Fluorescent pinball Glo-Balls™".

The others look cool though, especially the Pearl White glow in the dark, takes on the surrounding light colour.

#3678 1 year ago
Quoted from Coindork:

Is there not a brand that does actually glow in the dark?
I’ve never put a colored ball in a machine other than putting a white ball as the egg captive ball in my Data East Jurassic Park, so never looked too far into it.
Normally I would think colored balls are tacky, but in this case it seems like it would work really well.

Yes it seems the second link in that post does supply "Glow in the dark" balls.


They state that the white glowing balls take on the colour of surrounding light.

#3683 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

For folks that replaced their posts with better ones, can you provide the link so I can buy the same? Also were any of them tough to replace due to plastics, etc?
Sounds like target stickers are already being resolved by spooky which is great.
I also agree that neither are a big deal.

Quoted from razorsedge:

Also there is a product already available! .
[quoted image]
Effectively the same material as cliffys, polyurethane. 11mm dia.
PBL actually supply SuperBands, but not the full range it seems?.
I treat cliffys and superbands the same, and take it as a wider variety, broader range of sizes to choose from by browsing through both catalogues.

#3687 1 year ago
Quoted from Kevlar:

Are they the same diameter as the original posts?

Does the 1/16" shorter make any difference?

#3690 1 year ago
Quoted from MikeS:

The height doesn't make a difference. They are slightly wider as well but it made no discernable difference in gameplay to me. The game following installation i put up 18 million. If you don't hit your shots cleanly in this game the shots won't complete.

I just went with the SuperBands for TNA because they were the same dimension.

#3714 1 year ago
Quoted from Iwasthebruce:

Not an official owner yet, but patiently waiting on machine number 745!
One of the [apparently very few] non-Blood Sucker Editions :3
Just wanted to post so I can tag along with y'all here, cheers!

Pmsl That's IT! ... that's like totally a THING now!?! .... Gold!, you've coined the "puckered lips" emoji!? Lol




"Good - Job!"

#3760 1 year ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

the contrast has to do with viewing angle.. Seeing how I'm 6'4" I probably have the steepest angle and when I played the one at pinball life I didn't notice any display issue. quite frankly the comparison between those two screenshots are so close I could barely tell which is which.

Quoted from dnapac:

That “before” looks horrible. Mine never looked like that, and after adjusting the settings, my display looks better than the “after”. No screen swap for me.

That before and after image is clearly fabricated nonsense, at least in substantial part. If you are going to take before and after images of displays at least get the view angle within 30 degrees for "before" and "after".

Obviously manipulated photography if you look for a moment, the "before" picture is looking down on the display so severely in comparison so that it can look more "washed out". You'd need to be 8 feet tall to get that "before" perspective from standing behind the lockbar.

Ignore kanada for "tech tips" is my advice. Zak as well by the sounds.

983e4f31a4b170cea99a4d72fabc0e4dfe710d3b (resized).jpg

What you see here is nothing more than a bullshit Cunning Stunt by a self proclaimed Stunning [email protected]+!!

I bet they didn't even change screens at all, just camera angle. They probably were not even smart enough to manipulate the Picture settings on their unchanged display, for a convincing improvment of their fabricated "photo shoot".

There doesn't look to be much difference really anyway, it's his principle of dishonesty and manipulation that truly sux, not the display.

#3763 1 year ago

No, what?

Please explain

#3765 1 year ago
Quoted from TomGWI:

My screen on R & M seems fine. My TNA is a little light and I did adjust it.
What screen did you order Neil if you don’t mind me asking?

The screen IS fine

The issue is psychological.

#3768 1 year ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

I mean it’s not manipulated photography.
But yes, it’s a matter of preference and not a dealbreaker. Subtle difference but definitely there.

It is manipulated photography, the shot angle is Very different for "before" and "after". That is manipulated, Not a credible Comparison for brightness etc. when you do that kind of rubbish. It is clear to see this in their pic, if you look, it is right before our eyes.

#3788 1 year ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

mate, its not fabricated nonsense. honestly. If you don't think you need a screen then fine; for those who want a better picture then what's the big deal. Thats why Sony has 10 different models of TV at different levels of quality and price point.

Yes, the picture is misleading, on purpose too I say. It is inconsistent between the two shots for angle. Wildly different. My post wasn't saying people cant do what they want, just that Kanedas "picture" shoot is rubbish (because that is a fact, you know, the angles mismatch as well as other points).

The image is made as a troll effort plain and simple, mate.

Classic K-man style.

#3791 1 year ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

dood, Kaneda might be doing his usual windup and taking pictures to show the difference in screens is always challenging but he hasn't fabricated those pictures; please stop talking nonsense that there is no difference in the screen; there absolutely_ is fact_ because one is 1080p one isn't. one has better view angles, one doesn't, one has stronger colours, one hasn't, maybe that picture doesn't show it well but the replacement screen is hugely improved, if you are happy then cool, but those who want to improve it, let them make their own call.

You are misunderstanding my particular context of the word "fabrication". The angles are so different it is stupid. Give yourself a rest bud!

#3794 1 year ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

eye of the beholder my friend but hell no I won't.
There is an improved screen; the lord god geniuses of screens at colordmd recommended it. Folks are saying there is no difference when with my own eyeballs I've seen the difference, three of my buddies saw the difference on mine after discounting and went off and bought the screen, loads of people on the TNA thread did it. But here in the R&M pinside thread we are in a dimension when even the fact that the manufacturer of the screen shows the specs are different they are not believed that there is a difference! WTF?! Have you seen the two screens in question?

You've gone well beyond what I was actually posting about, which was Kanedas troll image.

Besides that, you are blowing it out of all reasonable proportion. Where do you want to stop for such minor improvments? ... you can keep going in tiny incriments... then .... $500 screen? . Not everyone buying a pinball is Loaded you know.

I look at the playfield for pinball anyways! Lol

#3837 1 year ago
Quoted from ThePinballCo-op:

I've played a TNA for weeks on end and agreed the screen needed to be upgraded. The owner bought a new one and switched it out, and the difference was amazing. It was like a whole new game.
I purchased ACNC in February. It's flawless. The screen is great. No adjustments needed. Because of this I figured Spooky had upgraded.
R&M comes out and everything was fine for 5 months. And now people are talking about upgrading it? I don't really understand what prompted all this...

It's a vocal handfull of owners choosing to go next level of display quality... ala JJP. Higher end displays, well ... look Better!

For most owners, adjusting the OEM stock display settings to preferece (brightness down some, contrast up some, gamma On), makes everything honky dory.

Fyi The stock display settings are 50, where min is 0 and max is 100.

On my Standard TNA Display I have:
That gives me a dramatic improvment compared to the standard display settings. It looks good to me.

It sounds like my TNA display might still be inferior to the displays going into R&M. ??

#3857 1 year ago
Quoted from MikeS:

Thanks. I know how they're designed to be used but I never use the leveler nuts at home. Its easier to adjust on the fly without them. I always start with my front leveler flat against the leg and level as needed. I haven't had any fail yet and if they do its only about $1 for a new one.

Being locked up firmly, helps prevent damage to the threads over time vs if left loose. Same goes for leg bolts into cabinet, which also protects the cabinet from damage in that case.

If leg leveler locknuts from the top are done tight down onto the crimped nipple type "nut-sert", it will damage the nut thread, the leg insert thread, and the leveler thread. The lack of flange face top side is one problem doing that, with these. No nut ok, but I wouldn't lock from the top in most cases.

#3934 1 year ago
Quoted from TomGWI:

No idea why but I keep getting balls stuck behind the garage when I make a right orbit shoot to the back left hole. It has happened now about 10 times. Anyone else experience this? Ball sits behind the opto. It is impossible to dislodge without a magnet under the house.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Are there any parts look loose or missing?

2020-06-25 13.10.25.png

#3940 1 year ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

I’m not really sure how or why this is happening, but from your photo it looks like the ball is getting stuck behind the metal tab. I illustrated in razorsedge’s photo.
[quoted image]

The pic there is just grabbed from way back in the thread. Just noticing how short that guide is. Why is that ball guide only half usual height? .... looks like the ball gets on top of it? .... I kinda thought it might be higher with a hole for the opto. Also then protecting the opto PCB, and preventing the ball going anywhere behind there ? ...

#3979 1 year ago
Quoted from Kevlar:

....all the inserts are white....

Twilight Zone! :3

#4027 1 year ago
Quoted from Kevlar:

Might just be the photo but is that opto exposed to knocks from the ball?

I thought, why is the ball guide half ball height?

The ball would frequently go bouncing in there where the post is now, it seems, crashing to rest against the opto PCB in the void that existed. The post in there is to stop it lodging in the crevice, but the opto can still get a hit it would appear.

#4029 1 year ago
Quoted from screaminr:

Like the saying goes , never buy a Monday or Friday car .
Not that you had a choice .

You want a Wednesday one my old boy always rekoned.

#4032 1 year ago
Quoted from bemmett:

So I noticed on the drop targets mainly for Beth, Summer, Jerry and Rick they weren't registering very well. Seems on mine the cushion behind the target was just too much and was preventing the switches from making consistent contact. I just shaved off a little of the cushion on each and now they react MUCH better.

No adjusting switches?

#4040 1 year ago


QzGjIo-ZyaJjB-SFllsYDuz4NyAiBvb3C2NE9a7K_G8 (resized).jpg

#4043 1 year ago
Quoted from JustEverett:

I'm starting to wonder how many R&M buyers are first time NIB owners (or even pinball owners in general). I've unboxed a lot of games from every manufacture currently building except American, and there are always issues. I helped unbox a JJP pirates at a local bar and there were all kinds of issues out of the box. I also unboxed another JJP Pirates at a friends and did almost nothing right out of the box. Pinball machines are a complex mess of electronics, mechanisms, and hardware. They are going to have problems. Just calm down and know that Spooky will do more than any other manufacturer out there to help you fix them.

Hey Spooky Pinball .....

#4045 1 year ago

Sorry but I'm somehow missing something in the confusion there, what are you actually annoyed about again?

Everything's working fine isn't it?, things are getting sorted... for Spooky customers at least. Also, you essentially align with the quoted post Lol

Everyone has the right to be offended of course, and anyone can not care. Fine, be offended Lol. Nothing actually happens when someone just gets annoyed or offended by things, except maybe unless they turn all chainsaw masacre or get full psycho!.

Everyone's so sensitive these days!. Soft....

Uncle Razor prescribes a teaspoon of cement ... and says Harden the [email protected]# up!!! Lol

#4056 1 year ago
Quoted from JustEverett:

Literally no one on the forum is saying anyone should be silent about issues. We were all responding to a guy who came on here ranting rather than attempting to have a meaningful discussion.

Here here... and thank you for helping people to get that, some whom maybe didn't seem to have time to read all posts properly.

#4061 1 year ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

Ok, fair enough. That still doesn’t validate an industry standard of incomplete initial build development and using paying customers as guinea pigs to figure out how to finish your product.

Trouble is you're in the wrong thread for that here...

I guess some people just not grasping the bootique principle very well. First quarter of the run are prototypes, really. Raise issues by all means. Try not to be an arse in doing it.


#4063 1 year ago
Quoted from BeeGeeMtl:

Completely disagree! A product is a product is a product. Whether you pay $0.10 for something or $1M, the fact is that any company producing any product has to produce the best product they can for their consumers (and if mistakes are made, listen to feedback, improve and grow from that feedback). Yes, pinball is a "boutique" industry but it also has a bunch of folks basically saying "It's cool if you guys send us products that are faulty, we can fix the smaller problems" HENCE why these companies continue to ship out products with faulty parts in them (because they're cheaper for them). Stop the enabling. We're paying a LOT OF MONEY for these products, you need to stand up and demand that they produce them properly, not make excuses for them. I work VERY HARD for that money. PS: Once again, I stress...this is NOT about SPOOKY! They are the one company that I see in pinball that does what I just stated above. Even if mistakes pop up in their machines, they LISTEN and ADJUST and SHIP out better product. Unlike some others.

Have you bought a Stern lately?? Pmsl

Difference is Spooky don't seem to act like the stereotypical greedy capitalist.

If they were you'd be paying like 10k for a game of RaM quality. For the base model. JJP teritory.

#4078 1 year ago

Not a fan of "pinstadium" at all, myself. That thing is totally killing the look of the game with its over the top couloured washout.

Pickle Rick looks Great though!

#4083 1 year ago
Quoted from Dantesmark:

Which is better?[quoted image][quoted image]

Not a crappy misleading camera shot in the dark maybe. The first one looks alot better! . But, also no point in taking pictures, when they are not indicative of real life. The second one looks drowned and awful to me.

In real life they are totally unnecesary, actually for me they detract and are a pita.

At least in your first camera shot the art colour and inserts can actually be seen clearly. Try fixing the exposure on your camera for more indicative and representative images to compare. That might be an idea.

#4091 1 year ago
Quoted from Dantesmark:

Honest question guys... have you ever played a game with pin stadiums on them?

Yep, I have. I wasted money on One Set, just to try. Never again. They are overpriced fluff that detracts from most Good games.

Customised support lighting is Waaay cheaper to impliment, and works Much better in a variety of aspects, imho.

TNA and RaM definately are two games Specifically, on which pinstadium will destroy completely a major aspect of the game, because of the way that RGB GI is utilised. No question!

Alien is another.

Maybe I can appreciate Atmosphere.

Maybe I have sensitive eyes ...

#4093 1 year ago
Quoted from Dantesmark:

So you spend 8k+ on a pinball machine, but think an extra $250 to have the ability to see the beautiful artwork clearly is overpriced fluff?
I get thats its not everyones cup of tea, but why poo poo it? Hell its won two twipys for best mod if i rickall.

*** Pay $250 to ruin the 8k game you mean?

Those things should really come in a kit that includes a Welding Shield!

Not poo pooing

You posted, people give opinion. Many people don't really like it.... obviously they are all bad people because they don't like a washed out horrible look of their great game the way you obviously do. If you don't want feedback then maybe try not posting?

It's all subjective, no need to take it all personal like.

If you really like it, that is Great, for you! ... just that not everyone likes the same, don't get feisty at people not flocking behind you, no problems!

I can see the game, no problems. Cheers

Also, I think the Pickle Rick is Great!!

#4124 1 year ago
Quoted from KingofGames:

Maybe a stupid question.
Will i have a probleem with the power suply in europe? Since we use 220 volt instead of 110.

No problem, Spooky got you covered

#4129 1 year ago
Quoted from Blackzarak:

I had the same problem as well and notice only when there’s a certain combination with meeseeks multi ball. I’m pretty ire it’s a software/code isssue (Same thing happens to me with Elvira HOH when I hit certain mode combinations but it has been fixed with Lyman


Geez Elvira horrors sounds pretty buggy for highly experienced machine builders...

Thank goodness this is The Rick and Morty thread, and we have Eric! ... "GOOD JOB!"

#4185 1 year ago
Quoted from MikeS:

Ive had this happen a few times. My shooter lane coil strength is perfect for one ball, but in the rare instance that it needs to fire out 2 balls there isn't enough strength. Upping the coil strength introduces new problems. Ive let Eric know. I would think just boosting the stength during the 2nd and third attempts would solve it.

The way the launch ramp ends does create an issue. If it could handle dropping the faster moving ball reliably, it would certainly help things for the two ball stuck scenario. The issue likely wouldn't exist to start with, since all launches will then always make the grade anyway. Some parts of RaM overengineered, this part underengineered imho.

Having multiple tries at launching balls on any repeated basis is not fun to have happening during your multiball game, at all. The wireform may or may not be substantial enough, but it definately Looks flimsy. I should not have to dial back launch power just to make the ball drop consistently, really.

The only aspect of the game I have any concern with. Maybe it is sufficient? ... but it is certainly not ideal. Not hard to remedy when my game gets here if the wireform is still this way, I will certainly create a fix or improvment so that launch power can be elevated and still drop the ball consistently.

If Spooky have thier hands tied and unable to make any changes to the wireform, I can understand in some circumstances changes just aren't possible*. Maybe it could be a Mod opportunity.

I'm not worried about it at all for myself, I have fixes in mind. Point is it would be the icing on the cake to recieve a NIB pin and not have to do any Stranger Things from out of the box. If Spooky could pull that off they would be shipping A++ Grade games, and setting the highest standard bar None!

It is an issue, it is minor, but has potential to make any copy a bit temperamental, inconsistent with launches. Just posting my thoughts about it, trying to be constructive. Regardless, game still R(i)cks! ... looks like The GOAT for me!

#4188 1 year ago
Quoted from Kevlar:

Agree with everything you said, the shooter lane wireform is a very poor design. I've said basically what you said, to Luke, the end is too flimsy and it's too dependent on the perfect ball speed to work, the margin for error is tiny, too slow or too fast and the design just doesn't work. I suggested something could be made, to clip onto the end and attach to the nearby orbit/turn around loop post, to stiffen the whole thing and force the ball down.





It was raised quite some time ago.

#4232 1 year ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Does the UFO have a solenoid?

It is Identified, that is Not a UFO.

That is Ricks flying car,or ship.

RaM thread cred dead lol

#4322 1 year ago
Quoted from ziz:

This happened a little while ago!
[quoted image]

Is that part acrylic or polycarbonate?

#4324 1 year ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

It seems like it snapped like acrylic. I'd think they should be using PET-G on all the plastics in the game for its durability. Learned that lesson making the Shadow Plastic Supersets...

Also learned years ago from the Alien games. That game is Terrible for shattered acrylic plastics.

#4326 1 year ago
Quoted from Kevlar:

Hmm...that's not good, hindsight is 2020 obviously but bending a piece of plastic as a hinge...probably always going to fail eventually whatever you use. Maybe a part re-design is needed here.

If the right plastic is employed it should be fine. Lexan/Polycarbonate/PetG would surely be ok, these allow deformity and tend Not to crack. Tough but not as hard, you can fold Lexan, no crack. Lexan would be used for your Stock Car windscreen, for example. The 3 plastics I listed there really aren't the exact same as each other, either. They are similar.

Polycarb etc. would not snap that way, it would tend to deform or lose shape if bent beyond its yield.

Acrylic however, is naturaly fairly hard, and does not go well with being stressed or copping deformity. It cracks, or snaps, if you try to fold it or it gets stressed.

Acrylic is certainly much more common, easier to work with, and costs significantly less.

Material selection is a component of design.

#4385 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

And what was your number?

If it's the same situation as me, number not known.... whatever is built to go in the Aussie group container I suppose. I have asked a few times, but can't seem to get any info. It's no big deal.

I put my options list in about 3 weeks ago as well, as soon as we recieved it.

#4411 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

I’ve got no idea what my number is.

Lol glad to hear I'm not the only one!

#4443 1 year ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

Sorry for the thesis... it sounded like you'd never done one before. So as for differences I've not had the fortune to own a Spooky yet (but am on the R&M list!) but figure it can't be too different; all my pins and service work on all other vendors / eras have shown minor variations on the same basic theme. So if you can handle the serpentine mess of a Sys11/WPC game, I'd say you're all set!

Good guide. The only thing I noticed that may help that I have done.... instead of just letting the cable loom drop into the cabinet, I lassoo the whole lot together with a loop of string, leaving a long tail to hang out of the backbox hole. This makes it much more straightforward to retrieve on reassembly, and preserves original cable routing.

#4451 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

That's what I was hoping too, but it sounds like a big batch of Aussie games are in front of us.

Remembering Aussie build numbers are Spread Throughout the lot (including at least one standard that I know of), but I guess still 2-3 weeks worth of building for the container. For timing, and what that calculated to from the info at hand, the Aussie production was going to be Equivalent to as if they were all in the hypothetical vicinity of 230-250 (for the timing, not actual build numbers).

It is also possible, therefore, that in getting to build No.160 for example, there could be build numbers Below 160 that are destined for Oz. If there are, then those games would not have been built as yet either, as far as I understand the situation.

Translated, I think Spooky will be well into the 200's before the Aussie lot is run.

#4463 1 year ago

The answer to the question ... What is the meaning of life, the universe, and everything?

#4542 1 year ago
Quoted from Hungryforapples:

Anyone from Australia know the most cost effective way to pay spooky?
the quickbooks link requires a credit card or routing number. If I pay through CBA it seems I'll pay 500 or so more than a service like transferwise...

Spooky chooses Quickbooks, afaik that isn't optional?... not that I'd know for certain (Edit: Thank you for the option posted below RD!). I seem to recall asking something about it for some reason for TNA. I had no issues with Quickbooks, exchange rate was ok for mine, not much different than paypal or any others, it seemed. All within a cent. I use a credit union though too. Maybe CBA are just ripoffs?

Maybe they would take a bank cheque?

+ 3 cents in the dollar or so is a pretty major difference. What's the catch?
There's always a catch. I think maybe sometimes different ways can perhaps cost Spooky more, as well. ?

Au Dollar is being bullish... already saved thousands in the last few months of rate gains (compared to March)... heck by next week it'll probably cost you another 500 pennies less again, anyway!

I found my invoice in the inbox today. Some of my funds are cold hard, have to get back from work in the sticks and get that paid in.... I'll let you know how the exchange rate goes for me after the weekend. I suspect I'll get 70-71 cents in the dollar on Monday.

Meanwhile I finally learn my build number

BSE #500 heading downunder soon bitch!!




#4590 1 year ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

It was a 90's reference.

Or is that "still is" a 90's reference?, which can still be "was" even though it "still is".

"Was" is past tence, regardless of if things have changed or not.

Thus demonstrating to anyone not fully understanding the english language, that many words in the language can be exactly the same word, but still have very Different implied Meanings, depending on an often overlooked little thing c