(Topic ID: 257850)

Official Rick and Morty Club - You are not like other carbon based life forms.

By TheNoTrashCougar

4 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

106 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #256 Rules posted by Eric as of Feb 2020 Posted by epthegeek (4 years ago)

Post #510 R&M Options Posted by Morinack (4 years ago)

Post #589 Useful post for coin door comparison. Posted by NeilMcRae (4 years ago)

Post #637 More code rules - Adventures full lost Posted by epthegeek (4 years ago)

Post #745 Club thread reminder. Posted by TigerLaw (4 years ago)

Post #748 Cards for the game rules and what not. Posted by Coindropper (4 years ago)

Post #751 Darker outline for instruction cards. Posted by Coindropper (4 years ago)

Post #976 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Wireform ball launch and coil adjustment Posted by timmmmyboy (4 years ago)

Post #1006 TECH:Pitch recommendation from Scott. Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (4 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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10
#17104 2 years ago

Joined the club this weekend…. Butter cab and all the options… added VooDoo Glass and an external sub (no more glass rattle):

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#17108 2 years ago
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:

That is an ideal lineup to me. 4 games, 4 eras, 4 designers, 4 manufacturers, Ritchie, Lawlor, Danesi... Rick and Morty is a beaty.

Thanks, that’s just what I was going for, a lineup with great representation for era/designer (Krynski for Paradise, BTW). The other wall will be all pre-war.

#17122 2 years ago
Quoted from Happy81724:

I am running a 2020 code and spookys link doesn’t work. Is this the most recent code?
https://soldmy.org/pin/rm/

Yup, just loaded it on mine last weekend. That site is where the link on Spooky’s site leads.

#17141 2 years ago
Quoted from wackenhut:

Anyone had to change out the topper motor? What is involved?
Also, regarding the glass rattle, I know the recommendation is to put the anti-rattle tape around the glass, but it seems to be tight enough on the sides. Might be a stupid question, but how can you tell what area needs to be tighter besides trial and error with tape. It seems like the culprit would be at the head and bottom lock bar.

I turned off the topper motor in settings…. It still has the lights come on, so it doesn’t feel like spinning adds much.

I put a strip of self adhesive felt in the glass channel at the head and swapped to an external sub, which solved my rattles.

#17145 2 years ago
Quoted from wackenhut:

Does the Polk Sub come with the cables necessary to hook up to the pinball machine? Is it just red and white or something else?

It just requires a piece of speaker wire. None was included with the Polk sub.

3 months later
#17775 1 year ago
Quoted from whoknowsgoi:

Just installed the upgraded ips lcd screen and the screen images looked scrambled. Everything appears hooked up correctly, any insight

Start with pulling and reseating each cable, particularly the flat cable from the screen to the controller.

3 weeks later
#17845 1 year ago
Quoted from richierich85:

Hey guys, can someone post me a link where all the rick and morty pinball tweaks are the help all the bricking. Only thing I have done is replaced flipper bushes from ones I trimmed down originally but would like to make other adjustments on flippers, ball guides etc to help shoot better. Any help is appreciated...

They are listed in the key posts: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/357#key-post-index

#17847 1 year ago
Quoted from DruTheFu:

4th of July weekend code update?
America, F*%# Yeah!!

Where? Not seeing an update on the SoldMy.org site.

#17850 1 year ago
Quoted from DruTheFu:

“?”
(just some wishful thinking, kinda dead around these parts)

Sentence could be read in two ways… I read it in the way that had me getting a code update…

#17851 1 year ago

Finished my MRS install today… Such a great upgrade to RaM, as I no longer miss any orbit switches and the whole machine is just smoother. They are expensive compared to a standard switch, but reasonable when compared to all the mods people add to RaM that add nothing to the gameplay. (No shade… I have about 90% of the available mods in my RaM, too!)

Awesome service from @sonic, buy with confidence!

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#17853 1 year ago
Quoted from RPZ:

Awesome, how much are RaMs and where you get them from? Thanks

$35 per +shipping. Reach out to @sonic.

Here is the catalog thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mampm-creations-mrs-catalog

Very good product, and a great supplier.

#17855 1 year ago
Quoted from Lounge:

Those right hand lanes are going to be problematic with that magna-save …. ask me how I know

Mine was, but Matt reworked the sensitivity for me and it’s good now. Doesn’t miss a ball, but doesn’t trigger on the magnasave or flipper.

#17864 1 year ago
Quoted from rotordave:

Replacing the orbit switches I can understand …
But why the inlane switches?

I like the smooth flow of the ball when it comes from the lifter, so The MRS on the left inlane was the one I needed. I just did the rest of the in/out lanes for a consistent look. You’re correct that the orbits are the bigger improvement, by far.

#17870 1 year ago
Quoted from Noma2017:

How many switches would be everywhere? Thinking about getting this game. Can someone point me to a few must have mods and dialing in needs?

10 for all switches, 8 if you omit the shooter lane and Flooble Crank (captive ball), 4 if you omit the shooter lane, Flooble Crank and in/out lanes.

I opted for 8 for RaM and would do the same if I was doing it again. For UM, I’ve ordered two for the orbit switches, but won’t be doing any others, as I don’t think they’d add value.

If you’re looking for where to start, do the 4 switches in the loop/orbit for RaM.

#17872 1 year ago
Quoted from beltking:

Any instructions to install the rms switches? I have four just didn’t install yet.

I found this works well:
1) pull existing switch.
2) place blue painters tape over mounting area, use a pen to poke holes where the screw holes are.
3) stick the MRS in the slot and trace the edge of the mounting pad on the painters tape.
4) pull the MRS and painters tape, stick the tape to the bottom of the mounting pad, lining up your traced outline.
5) drill one mounting hole, using the holes in the tape as your guide.
6) mount, wire, heat shrink…. Test in switch test.

3 weeks later
#17985 1 year ago

Mine sweeper dimension: where the playfield is dark, but when you hit a target it lights the playfield for a radius around the target and you have to find the megaseed shots that way.

#18008 1 year ago

Terry dimension where all targets play “Bitch”

#18037 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

I have the crystal mod and garage portal protector if you are interested. Never installed them and I have since sold my game.
PM me if you are interested.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Noma2017 I have both those mods that Pinball-Obsessed listed and recommend them both. The portal protector is actually functional, and the crystal mod is a great cover for the ship mech (my machine came loaded with lots of mods).

I also recommend the MRS from @sonic, the speaker acrylics from @sheahan2, and the IPS screen upgrade.

Congrats on joining the club!

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#18040 1 year ago
Quoted from Noma2017:

Thank you so much. I am so excited to be a part of the club. I will take a look at all of those mods and my machine has most of them already. One question. The machine I’m getting has MRS switches in the Orbits only. Do you recommend more in different areas or should I just see how it works for the first few months?

I say play it as is and then decide, you can add them anytime. The orbits are the biggest improvement, but I found the left in lane switch slowed the ball coming up from the lifter. I did 8 MRS for my RaM.

#18132 1 year ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

Justin doesn’t do Jerry.

Cyril does.

1 week later
#18326 1 year ago
Quoted from Noma2017:

Hi, does anyone have a different 3D printing file for the flipper spacers? This one doesn't work as it has structural issues. Just asking because I was going to try to install a bunch of mods tomorrow with a friend.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4869750

I just printed a set in PETG using that Thingverse file with no problem. I’m entry level at 3D printing, but would be glad to help via PM, or the experts in the 3D printing thread would be able to.

#18333 1 year ago
Quoted from DaddyManD:

First I am seeing this and intriguing. Have you noticed any differences in gameplay? Seems like alot of work for this adjustment.Thanks

Very little work to install, you can remove the screws and slip the spacer in, then reinstall with longer screws. I wasn’t aware that Spooky offered a revised bushing, but that would do the same thing. Lowering the flippers makes a marked difference in gameplay.

2 months later
#18859 1 year ago
Quoted from dnapac:

So, my wife thinks that the scoop is supposed to be a guys butthole…the horseshoe is the guy bent over/his legs are the loop. Since it’s R&M…maybe…she insists she’s right…

Very interesting…….

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3 weeks later
#18920 1 year ago
Quoted from Var1AbL3:

I finally had the time to get the precision flippers installed in my game. It was a big job, had to remove full mechanism and fix some of the screw holes. After a few hours I have them all installed and they LOOK great....BUT my lower right flipper wasn't secured properly (shaft was slipping unlike other two). So I got back underneath and went about tightening that clamp. But the bolt, and hex screw just keep turning. I'm guessing the threads are stripped?? Surprised because this is the first time changing these flipper shafts/bats so it hasn't been loosened since the game was manufactured. Has this happened to anyone else?
Anyway, can I remove that bolt/nut and get a replacement (even better if I can get it at ace or something). Or, do I need to buy an entire flipper mechanism? If so, anyone know the part number? Below are some pics with problem part circled.
[quoted image][quoted image]

You can source it at any decent hardware store or home center: #10-32 x 1 1/4 socket head cap screw and a #10-32 nylock nut. You may end up needing to go stainless, if they don’t have a grade 5 or grade 8 screw.

#18937 1 year ago
Quoted from brickbuilder14:

Is there a “trick” to tightening the flippers after you change the bushings? I can’t seem to get them tight enough. After two or three games the flipper “moves” - I tightened it further and now the nut just keeps turning

You’ve stripped the nut, see my prior post for the replacement nut and screw. Make sure everything is oil free before assembly, then mark the shaft and pawl with a marker to see if the shaft is twisting or the flipper is moving, then tighten whichever moved.

#18945 1 year ago
Quoted from Var1AbL3:

Another question regarding that flipper clamp bolt. I got to the Ace and they had the parts, so I bought a handful and an extra ratcheting box wrench to get into that right space under the PF. Unfortunately it didn't take me long to figure out the THREADS on either the bolt or the screw are stripped so they just keep spinning . I did some google searches but everything is about getting rounded off bolts out, not stripped. The bolt is currently at the very end of the screw with less than a half a millimeter sticking out. Just spins and spins now.
What is the best recommendation around here? I can get to the inside of the nut on the bolt, should I try and snip/cut the screw itself on the inside of the nut? If so, that is a tricky spot, what might work best? A bolt cutter, or the grinder attachment on my Demel? The latter makes me nervous under the PF, I've had those discs break while grinding and that could be ugly underneath the game. Does this mean I need to remove the whole mechanism to fix this? Any suggestions or tips are greatly appreciated. I am using the military mantra here, fast is smooth and smooth is fast, I'd MUCH rather take my time than ruin the BEST pinball machine in the world.
EDIT:
Maybe something like this: Metal Nut Splitter Cracker, Metal Nut Splitter Breaker Manual Pressure Nut Cracker Remover Extractor Tool, Heavy Duty Nut Splitter Broken Damaged Nut Removal Splitting Tools by KAKO (4 Pack) https://a.co/d/4LcfgNX
Thanks in advance, John

If the flipper shaft is loose enough to pull the flipper out, I’d pull the whole assembly in order to work on it on a workbench. I’d use the Dremel to cut a vertical (in line with the screw) notch in the nut, then use a chisel to force the nut open.

1 week later
#19005 1 year ago
Quoted from Var1AbL3:

Finally finished the R&M flipper swap to Precisons that I started on Thanksgiving. One of the original clamps on the mech (lower right) got stripped and would not clamp down. I ordered flipper rebuild kits from Pinball Life that arrived yesterday and I swapped the hardware. After a few trial and error attempts I finally got the last flipper clamp tight enough to play a few games with no movement.
I am curious what power settings changes others have done on this game. I can absolutely see I will have to relearn the shots or make some adjustments because they are NOT in the same spot. But does seem a lot more consistent than before.
Attached a few pics for those considering these upgrades for their Spooky pins.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Your flippers look really high compared to what felt “right” on mine. I’ve basically set the rubber directly over the toothpick hole.

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#19013 1 year ago
Quoted from monitorpop:

Didn’t even know those existed until these recent posts. I’m seriously considering getting some for my pins.

Caution: they’re addictive. I thought they were a gimmick, but then I saw posts showing the machining quality and decided to buy a set for RnM…. Just order two more sets on Black Friday. Now thinking about ordering a set for my TNA, which hasn’t even shipped yet.

#19019 1 year ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

I bought precision flippers and they are great, so far I just have them on my Rick and Morty. I recommend the blue ones with Rick and Morty. I'm experimenting with various Titan rubbers, and will report back. I'm planning to try:
Blue on blue
Glow in the Dark on blue
Pink on blue (I suspect this may be the dark horse winner, due to the color motif of the pin)

I tried the Titan rubbers, but went with PerfectPlay in purple. I normally use Titan on every machine, other than woodrails, but I like the “bouncy” PerfectPlays on RnM better than the “grabby” Titans. (Don’t know if those descriptions make sense, but it’s the best I can come up with).

#19026 1 year ago
Quoted from monitorpop:

Do we need the “Flipper Shaft precision bushings” for R&M or just the flipper kit? I assume the bushings are too long for the thinner Spooky playfield.

Yes, you 100% need the bushings. If you have x spacers in your game instead of the revised shorter Spooky bushings you’ll need shorter screws for when you reinstall without the x spacers.

1 week later
#19143 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Did R&M come with a coin box? I imagine it did, but for some reason I can't find mine and I've looked everywhere (my only Spooky game).

The coin box was optional.

1 month later
#19224 1 year ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Is this just when the Precisions are used with Rick and Morty?

My experience was that R&M required me to crank the pawls so tight that I stripped the nut or broke the bolt multiple times. I got two of them clamped, but couldn’t get the final one. I ordered a replacement pawl from Pinball Life, but just broke more bolts and stripped more nuts. I finally had to spread the pawl open and grind the mating surfaces to get enough clearance for the park to bite onto the shaft. A total PITA and made me wish I’d bought the keyed shaft setup (I bought my setup before the keyed ones were available).

On UM, the pawls were different and had more clearance, so not problem installing in just a few minutes.

#19226 1 year ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Why do you think it's just a Rick and Morty opinion? It's weird, as I've rebuilt flippers on other pins, but only really encountered this on R&M.

I’d guess that the precision flippers have a very accurate shaft diameter and the stock flippers were pretty loose on tolerances. I didn’t take any measurements to prove this, but I can say that I had to grind the pawl on R&M to get it tight, but on UM there was still a gap in the pawl when fully tightened. I think it was likely just differences in manufacturing by the suppliers on different years.

It’s worth the few extra $ on R&M to buy the keyed pawls.

#19231 1 year ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

don't forget about Harmon back when he was with Community.

Are you sure we can’t? He sincerely apologized in public and she accepted his apology and even said his apology was “a master class in how to apologize.” He was attracted to someone he had power over, and that was wrong, but isn’t there even a slim chance of forgiveness? He lost his job and the show was canceled as a result, and he comes off as sincere in feeling that he deserved that, is all future accomplishment banned for him, too?

3 weeks later
#19412 1 year ago
Quoted from Octomodz:

Does anyone have a set of legs or side rails (assuming if bought an extra set), that they'd be willing to sell?
Also looking for ramps.

Try this guy, he does all the metal work for Spooky (laser cutting, powder, etc…): https://www.lanezcustomsteel.com/

3 weeks later
#19530 1 year ago
Quoted from northerndude:

Dude, scroll back and read, it was just layed out on a platter for you. Try the search feature also

1 month later
#19699 11 months ago
Quoted from PinPilot:

Just picked up a R&M Bloodsucker. It had the old code on it 2020.02.17, so I download the most recent code 2023.03.22 from https://soldmy.org/pin/rm/
Instructions said to run the update TWICE, which I did. After the update, I get the "Update Successful, Recycle Power" message.
When I recycle power, I get the "Update Required" screen.
Any idea how to fix this? I called Spooky but couldn't get anybody on the phone.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Don’t forget to remove that shipping foam under the ship. Hope you get it up and flipping soon, awesome game!

1 month later
#19777 9 months ago
Quoted from dnapac:

So, I put on precision flippers and the left flipper won’t get tight. It feels tight, but as soon as one flip happens it starts to creep and after 10 flips it’s straight up. I’ve even replaced the plunger/clamp with the one from pinballife…any ideas?

Have you tightened it so much that the two sides of the pawl are touching? If so, I had the same issue and fixed it by pulling the pawl out, spreading the clamp end and grinding some material from each side, then reinstalling with a new nut/bolt.

#19780 9 months ago
Quoted from dnapac:

Actually, I got a new clamp because I thought of this.
I’ve…
1) Tightened and retightened about 100
Times…no exaggeration here.
2) scuffed up the shaft end that interacts with the clamp…with sandpaper.
3) bought new parts for the flipper mech (mainly the clamp and coil shaft).
4) removed the bushing and washed both the flipper shaft and bushing in a solution of water and Dawn detergent to try remove all oil. Thorough rinse and dry. Reassembled….
All, no dice. A keyed clamp and shaft was a thought, but they don’t have any…so I’ve requested a new bushing and flipper shaft and WILL NOT put oil on this one. I really don’t know what else to do…any ideas are welcome. I miss my R&M.

I bought a new pawl first, too, but I still had to tighten it so far that the two sides crushed together. If the two sides are touching, try doing what I suggested. Hope you get it up and running soon!

3 months later
#19905 6 months ago
Quoted from NovaCade:

Hey all, new Morty here. Stupid question, where do the balls go? 4 in the main trough and 1 in the garage when powering on correct?
I just got mine home and setup and it keeps trying to locate the balls

Correct…. Unless you want Rick to tell you: “Hold on, I’m adjusting my balls”

Best callouts in all of pinball. Enjoy (and don’t forget to adjust the obscenity up)!

1 week later
#19922 5 months ago
Quoted from Jigz:

I would probably reach out to Spooky - they seem to use that same lock on most of their games that I've seen. My Rick and Morty and Scooby uses the same F04.

I have R&M, Ultraman, TNA, and Scooby is on the truck. Same pair of locks on all, but I still keep the keys separate just because I like keychains on the rack. Lol

3 weeks later
#19990 5 months ago
Quoted from NovaCade:

Anyone pull the trigger and replace the stock LCD with the upgraded one? Did it make a noticeable difference?

I’ve replaced a couple in RaM, along with Ultraman… About to do Scooby. The improvement in the black is the most noticeable

Here is a DIY option, along with some before/after: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ultraman-kaiju-rumble-owners/page/56#post-7052234

Here is what you can build with your OE screen: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/spike-2-lcd-clock#post-7507356

2 months later
#20120 71 days ago
Quoted from JorgesArcade:

What was the price for one when first released?

Regular $6,995 and the Blood Sucker Edition $7,520. However, that was back when Spooky had tons of options, so you could add up -$3 in additional options (shaker, knocker, coated coin door, DBA door, etc…)

3 weeks later
#20152 44 days ago
Quoted from imagamejunky:

Spooky has new Rick and Morty playfields available on their website right now. If any of you are looking..

Well, those sold out quickly!

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