(Topic ID: 257850)

Official Rick and Morty Club - You are not like other carbon based life forms.

By TheNoTrashCougar

2 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

84 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #256 Rules posted by Eric as of Feb 2020 Posted by epthegeek (1 year ago)

Post #510 R&M Options Posted by Morinack (1 year ago)

Post #589 Useful post for coin door comparison. Posted by NeilMcRae (1 year ago)

Post #637 More code rules - Adventures full lost Posted by epthegeek (1 year ago)

Post #745 Club thread reminder. Posted by TigerLaw (1 year ago)

Post #748 Cards for the game rules and what not. Posted by Coindropper (1 year ago)

Post #751 Darker outline for instruction cards. Posted by Coindropper (1 year ago)

Post #976 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Wireform ball launch and coil adjustment Posted by timmmmyboy (1 year ago)

Post #1006 TECH:Pitch recommendation from Scott. Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (1 year ago)


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#2484 1 year ago

The site is fine; their HTTPS certificate just expired. Click thru the warnings to see the site. I expect the cert will get renewed ASAP once they figure it out.

#2488 1 year ago

Just now catching up here...

The very first shot on the very first R&M stream was a brick to that upper loop. Something was clearly amiss, and I'm glad solutions have been found early. I expect games manufactured from here on out will shoot properly out of the box. If not, I'll adjust it myself. No biggie. Although it wouldn't hurt if Spooky moved that middle loop switch cutout a bit to the left.

3 weeks later
#2850 1 year ago

If you leave a stream run unattended, will it eventually buffer everything so you can watch it properly (as long as you don't close the browser)?

2 weeks later
#3265 1 year ago

Already been done... "Dirty pool old man!"

4 weeks later
#4172 1 year ago
Quoted from ziz:

I am interested in adding a subwoofer to the game. In my other Williams machines I did that with alligator clips to the cabinet speaker. Can I do the same thing with this machine? What if I want to disable the cabinet speaker as well? The sound is great as is but I’d rather leave the bass up to a sub to reduce the rattling. Do I need the pinnovators kit? Thanks!

Should be able to alligator clip to the existing sub and run to the external sub high level inputs.

Use the controls on the game's amp to reduce the cabinet sub volume so it's lower but still there, then turn up the gain on the external sub to where you like. Turning up the cab sub will make the external sub louder; use the external sub gain control to compensate. Fiddle with everything (including backbox volume for balance) til it sounds exactly how you like.

2 months later
#5717 1 year ago

If Eric is testing a fix for slowdown bug he may have pulled the current version off the site. No reason to keep distributing the bug. Keep checking and I bet a new version gets posted soon.

4 weeks later
#6429 1 year ago
Quoted from hawkmoon:

No issues with your game??? It only crashed with the code it had??? Got new code and it was ok??? 50 to 100 games before it crashed??? There coming to take me away, ha,ha,there going to take me away, ha ha ho ho, to the funny farm where life is beautiful all the time, and I'll be happy with broken toys and birds and baskets, and flowers and things, there coming to take we awayyyyyyyyyyyyyy!!!!

dude wtf is wrong with you? maybe they should take you away, out of this thread.

1 week later
#6740 1 year ago
Quoted from hawkmoon:

Well,I don't have to say anything anymore, the last hundred posts say it for me! Don't they!!!!

Make sure this guy's coindoor lock is extra-tight, seems like he's hard to please...

2 weeks later
#7198 1 year ago
Quoted from canea:

Seems like a valid complaint to me though. Yeah, you can turn down the amp so it doesn't rattle anything (just barely turned on with the knob), but you can't really get full, loud bass out of it without a ton of rattle the way it is now.

Quoted from zaphX:

I'm sorry, but I have to disagree. It's great Danesi jams, who doesn't want the bass up?

It's a fucking pinball machine, not a high-end sound system for crying out loud.

People on pinside will complain about *anything* it seems.

I added amps and upgraded speakers in my AiQ and it now rattles like a Yugo on Michigan roads. Just the way things work... tighten your loose bits or turn the bass down.

I do think Spooky ships with the bass a bit too high, but it's like, one knob man. Just turn it down.

#7209 1 year ago
Quoted from aeonblack:

So to me that would suggest those port holes have helped, but definitely haven't totally solved the problem, so it's not just a matter of "put more holes in the cabinet"

The glass channel is just too loose. Even the crappy Stern speaker would get glass vibration if you turned AIQ up enough (that game has lots of low end). Wrapping the edges of the glass in tape takes up the space and stops the rattle.

#7230 1 year ago

Is it a design flaw when Stern uses "woofers" that don't even have a surround for the cone, just paper all the way to the metal frame?

There is nothing wrong with Spooky's hardware. If you don't like the tone settings out of the box, turn the knobs.

3 weeks later
#8171 1 year ago
Quoted from hawkmoon:

Were you happy to finally get your pin, and find out that.yes,its not gonna play new out-of-box? Justeverett can't wait to get his hands on a new pin he has to fix before he can play it, then tell everybody he can actually diagnose and fix all the bugs in his precious purchase!! AND,yes,I have one on order.my build #is 499! #500 already went down under!

If you don't like what you see, you still have plenty of time to sell your spot. Won't lose a dime, probably make a couple bucks.

I had to reinstall the droptarget bank on my AIQ because the targets were pushed into the rubber and wouldn't drop. All games need tweaks. If you want true plug and play, buy a PS5.

Just kindly stfu with your negative nellie crap here plz

#8229 1 year ago

Hey there epthegeek Petition for classification change:

d3d-BMP and d3d-SLi should be considered positive modes, not negative. Anything that lowers the entropy around the flippers is a benefit for the player. Rick said these dimensions suck when we portal in, but I'm like fuck you, I'm staying here as long as I can, cracking a smile every time I hear the buzz of disabled devices. Fuck that bumper!

#8329 1 year ago

Biggest payoff I've seen is gromflomite supers in a 3x dimension (garage for left, right orbit for right). Stack your MB and mode, get meeseeks added in and try to get (and stay) in one of the 3x dimensions collecting supers.

Haven't figured out yet if meeseeks + dimension is multiplicative or additive. 3x right side with a blue 4x meeseeks light = 7x or 12x shot?

#8413 1 year ago

Just additional data for troubleshooting: we've had a couple crashes, but never had issues with lamps stuck on, portal effects stuck, speech cutting out or similar. We also never restart games. If you're getting the above issues, stop restarting and see if that helps.

#8434 1 year ago
Quoted from Rockytop:

#338 didn't quite make it unscathed through the Fed EX dimension.

I chose to personally escort my game through the r04d-+r1p dimension JUST to make sure those Jerrys in f3D-eX didn't poke their nasty little forks in it.

Hope they get it sorted for you quickly!

#8435 1 year ago
Quoted from SlightlySnaked:

Should it have come with 5 balls? Mine only came with 4 loose balls. Then the flubble crank ball... put 1 in the REENTRY HOLE, and 3 down the middle. Says looking for balls.

It appears you have been shorted a ball.

#8438 1 year ago
Quoted from Rockytop:

It's about a 9 hour drive for me, but I did think about it.

"only" 7 from here, but looks like it was worth it. Yours wasn't the only game zapped in f3D-eX

#8443 1 year ago
Quoted from SlightlySnaked:

“Silver Gold” lol. Lemme reach through the screen to get one homie.

I feel your pain.

First machine I ever got was an Earthshaker off ebay in like 1998 or so. Picked it up from the forward air terminal, got it home and setup.. no balls included. Seller assumed we had some, this was when games still mostly changed hands between ops. Can't exactly buy 'em at walmart, but we finally managed to score a set of used balls from a local coin-op dude.

#8524 1 year ago
Quoted from seger10494:

Where are the flippers supposed to be aligned at? I know on stern the middle of flipper should point at the hole in the playfield. Wondering if spooky is different? This is the first spooky I have owned

Spooky prefers them angled up slightly from the lane guide for easier ramp backhanding. I adjusted mine a bit lower, to be in-line with the lane guides; this improves the ramp and orbit shots IMHO.

#8611 1 year ago

I think the ball is hitting the flap rivets and getting enough upward launch off them to clear the ramp walls. I've had a few crazy airballs off the right ramp as well. Eric's ramps don't have the rivets.

#8747 1 year ago
Quoted from bitternerd:

But am embarrassed to say that I can't find the "blue" port to update.

On the motherboard are some USB sockets (rectangular metal holes). Some of them will have blue plastic bits inside instead of black, those are the 3.0 ports. Plug your USB stick into one of those.

#8838 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

My "stock" flipper positions below. The left flipper is "off", which I believe makes my right orbit shot a bit tougher than it should be. Plan on dialing it in soon...adjusting flippers is always a PITA.

Make sure you have a spare pawl for that side. The WMS pawls they use will only tighten so many times, then the clamp area is too stretched to fully clamp on the flipper shaft.

#8873 1 year ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

I was just thinking...if you got to the 10th stamp, why WOULDN'T you choose Rick Potion, since it's exclusive? I wonder if the plan is to have a few longer wizard type modes, and eventually those would be the ones you get to choose on the 10th stamp.

If you're going for points and have completed a number of modes, it might be worth replaying a mode you're really good at scoring in and milking the multiplier. That said, it sounds like Potion is longer and in theory would be worth more points, but experience with older modes might tip in favor of one...

#8891 1 year ago
Quoted from Morinack:

Dang! what did you slap save with a shovel?

A successful slapsave will send the ball back up the playfield, even if you tilt in the process. So satisfying when your slapsave actually makes a critical shot just before the tilt...

#9068 1 year ago

I noticed the flipper height issue on my game back when I first got it. Slapsaves weren't working worth a shit on it because the rubber was only hitting the upper part of the ball. I lowered the whole flipper plate with washers temporarily, until I can get the time to disassemble the flipper and file off the top of the existing bushing.

If you're failing to save SDTM balls that you could normally save on other games... check your contact point between the flipper tip and ball.

1 week later
#9316 1 year ago
Quoted from pinball_ric:

The other issue is for some reason my first game doesn't have the problem with airballs off the right ramp that people have commented on previously in the thread however game two does and it's pretty significant.

Check the positioning of the ramp flap rivets on the two games. See if problem game has rivets more towards the middle of the ramp (and more in the ball path). Can the ball hit the rivets in the good game, does it catch them worse in problem game?

1 week later
#9529 1 year ago
Quoted from djsoup:

however when in a game it will just stop working, or just start flipping randomly or delayed - no longer in tandem with the lower right flipper. Not sure what else to do or check.

See the post right above yours, make sure the wires are actually soldered to the flipper coil lugs and not just wrapped.

Spooky team, might want to slow the pace down a hair.

#9672 1 year ago
Quoted from guitarded:

Someone mentioned that the linkages tend to do that once they have been torqued a good time, once or twice already and will likely need replacing to get that grip again.
So, if you have replacements, swap them.

That someone was me, and yes, they likely need replaced now. Look at the pawl where the tightening bolt is... if the two sides reaching around the flipper shaft start to touch where you're tightening it, it's toast and won't tighten again, have to replace. Keep the plungers if they're still like-new (tap out the rollpin) for spares.

#9697 1 year ago

So if you start Purge while in fl-33p dimension, only use the right flipper button. All flippers flip but the counter doesn't decrement Just avoid the right-orbit shot if another dimension is lit. In theory it should be possible to finish with all 25 flips... wonder what kind of bonus that awards?

#9714 1 year ago

I fixed the leg issue by simply doubling up the metal protectors. Leave the installed ones on the cab, get a 2nd set and place them into position inside the legs.. run bolts through the leg/protector holes to keep them in place, then mount the leg on the cab. Tighten 'em up good and you'll never have a problem. The 2nd set does not need to be fastened to the cabinet to be effective.

1 week later
#9883 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

God, you guys are making is harder and harder to get me to unbox my game....
Still sitting in the box (pissed that I cant route it do to covid...)...

You really should unbox and setup the game. It's going to need tweaks before being location-ready. If you don't lower the flippers (file the bushings or shim the plates), it plays kinda meh, hard to slapsave and the rubber wears fast. Might need switch and other adjustments. Lower the scoop, etc. Consider all the time playing and tweaking (and playing and testing and more playing) as a necessary business expense. Write it off on taxes. Convinced yet?

#9889 1 year ago

Yes you can replace the skirt with any color you like, assuming it's the same style skirt. Note that they're a bit of a PITA to replace...

#9908 1 year ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

Rather than just ghost this

Part of the reason why you're awesome... now where's those shirts??

1 week later
#10240 12 months ago

Pickle Rick sighted in Palestine!
https://i.redd.it/dg7o8qb2dwc61.jpg

Another sighting in Berlin!
https://imgur.com/gallery/1AkYbcx

Thread is on reddit if you want more...

1 week later
#10477 11 months ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Hey Guys,
This is correct. It is also reinforced. It will work at almost any coil power as well.

This is what the new part fixes.

With the old wireform, you cannot dial in the launch power to work 100% of the time. Softer settings will result in the ball sometimes not making it to the end, because the rails closest to the player won't seat firmly in the playfield which sometimes robs power from launch. Harder launch settings will bang off the end and roll back to the shooter lane. It is impossible to get it 100% consistent in factory configuration.

#10479 11 months ago
Quoted from Zablon:

I have not had any issues at all as of yet, and I didn't change any shooter settings.

You're lucky. I've rebent the bottom seating part a bit and fiddled with the launch power... it works probably 95% of the time, but never 100%. Always fun watching your ballsaver timer wind down as the game re-fires the launch...

#10605 11 months ago

1. Newer code should fix this, the sticking used to be an issue if the EOS was fluttered.

2. Seems to be normal for P-Roc games flippers to collapse a bit, and the pop and scoop hit them hard. You can adjust the flipper EOS to close later to help alleviate it a bit.

3. Sounds like a switch issue, haven't seen anything like that on my game. There's a January code update, I'd install that and see if the issue persists.

#10616 11 months ago
Quoted from Soulstoner:

6. Flippers are way too high off the playfield (is this causing issues with all my shots?). Thankfully, Spooky is doing the right thing and sending replacements out to those in need.

7. Switch in upper-right corner registers maybe half the time, meaning half the upper loops you shoot don't count. MRS will fix this (additional cost)
8. Clean shots to right orbit will catch the edge of the wall poking out on the left, or other things, and basically die and fail to make it around
9. Ball gets jammed under shooter wireform
10. Ball launch inconsistent due to launch wireform moving around slightly and dampening launch power
11. Ship plastic breaks prematurely

I'm with you... I love the game when it works, totally addicting gameplay... but man, this is worse than RZ in terms of post-purchase twiddling and fixes needed. TnA seemed pretty solid out of the gate; I had similar hopes for R&M.... It's still a keeper, just a bit frustrating.

#10643 11 months ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Every part in the game is there because chose it! If the Houdini flippers were made to work properly, R&M flippers can be made to work properly. Period. Again, I love this game, but Spooky needs to fix the flipper fallback, just like they are fixing the flipper bushings. I understand one might be trickier technically, but it's unacceptable to not give us some hope they know how to fix the flipper fallback.

I'd like to know what the difference in operation is in comparison to Stern flippers which do not have this collapsing issue.

The power supply is basically the same.. 48v and plenty of amperge. If I were to replace the entire Spooky flipper assembly with a Stern assembly, would the flipper behave the same as a Stern and not fallback unless under extreme duress? If not, is it possible to connect a scope to the flipper coil drive of a Stern and see exactly how they can PWM their flippers without collapse? It's electricity, a coil, a transistor and code. Data East got PWM flippers working in the 80s, why can't P-ROC get them working just as well decades later?

#10659 11 months ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

They were single wound coils, but used Solid State flipper control which allowed a single maximum high power pulse of 40ms or something, before reverting to hold power at that single winding.

How exactly did they "revert to hold power?" You can't increase the resistance of the coil (like the hold circuit of a dual-wound coil), so how did DE reduce the power flowing through the single-wound coil? Is there logic on the board that switches the power to flow through a resistor after the 40ms initial pulse? AFAIK the only realistic way to cut power is to "turn it on and off really fast" AKA PWM. If PWM is not being used on Whitestar and SAM games, why do the coils buzz when held up?

1 week later
#10947 11 months ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Your product seems cool, literally, but wouldn't it be awesome if pinball companies figured out how to design a full fidelity flipper that generates much less heat? If a game is being played for 60-90 minutes, it shouldn't require being fanned to function properly. It's 2021! Lower power consumption, higher performance...maybe we need Apple to solve this problem

WMS had this figured out with Fliptronics and dual-wound coils. They'd warm up and get a little weaker under heavy play, but nothing like we're seeing these days. That system costs more to make, so we're stuck with the current crummy designs

JJP used dual-wound on WOZ but left out the Fliptronics part and JJP flippers were never as good as WPC. Stern flippers are driven better but get hot and weaken too much. Spooky uses WPC assemblies but P-ROC doesn't drive them nearly as well as Fliptronics did.

Spooky: I'll happily pay $100 more per title if you start using Fliptronics boards. No reason to skimp on the most important part of the game.

1 week later
#11289 10 months ago
Quoted from metallik:

With the old wireform, you cannot dial in the launch power to work 100% of the time. Softer settings will result in the ball sometimes not making it to the end, because the rails closest to the player won't seat firmly in the playfield which sometimes robs power from launch. Harder launch settings will bang off the end and roll back to the shooter lane. It is impossible to get it 100% consistent in factory configuration.

In the interest of full disclosure, I am retracting the above statement. After making that post, I f*cked around with the wireform one last time, and since then it hasn't biffed a single launch, over the course of 100+ games. The launch speed still varies a bit, but at one notch above factory power setting, every ball is delivered to the upper flipper properly now.

So, if your launch ramp is acting up, post to Pinside bitching about it, then mess with it again, and it should be good to go

#11458 10 months ago

Left ramp to upper loop to garage should sound something akin to Whirlwind's air-raid siren.. whatever R&M-related sound effect is closest to that

#11490 10 months ago
Quoted from gstellenberg:

Please stop with the libelous comments and untruths. I talk pinball with pretty much everybody who asks, whenever they ask. You could at least contact me and ask before posting comments making assumptions about the hardware.

Hi Gerry,

I made no assumptions and made no untrue statements. This post:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/78#post-5710895

stated there was an issue with the flippers sticking up, and it sure sounded like a problem with the hardware that we'd just have to accept. My post above asked exactly what you answered: why don't P-ROC flippers work as well as other PWM flippers? The repeated complaints in this thread are absolute proof the flippers in R&M don't work as well as Stern or other current games. It appears the answer is because your flipper code runs in software, and not as a hardware implementation?

May I suggest, instead of getting pissed when folks call out badly-working flippers, that you instead acknowledge it and accelerate development on your hardware solution instead? The flippers are the most important part of the game. I'm tired of having to explain to other players and guests why R&M flippers collapse and don't work like every other pinball I've owned over the past 20 years. I've got R&M next to an AIQ and the difference in flipper action is very noticeable between the two games. Please do whatever you can to address this issue. I honestly had no idea PROC flippers were controlled in this manner, but it doesn't work well in my experience.

#11496 10 months ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

The flipper problem isn’t Gerry’s problem, it’s mine. That’s what he was getting at.

Ahh ok gotcha. I do want to apologize for harping on the flippers so much.. I should have known the underpinnings were more complex that I was envisioning.

I will say again that on any game, I have no problem paying extra for the best possible flipper systems. Very happy to hear of PROC's hardware solution and hoping it might be available as an upgrade for R&M down the road. Remember, WMS manufactured hundreds of thousands of Fliptronics boards for their games when they didn't really need to, but they knew they had the best flippers in the business and that mattered.

#11500 10 months ago
Quoted from gstellenberg:

Not at all pissed about that. I'm upset about the comments saying that knockdowns are "part of the P-ROC system" and that P-ROC controlled flippers can't behave as well as Data East flippers from the 80s, both of which are pretty much the definition of libel in that they're incorrect and undeservedly damaging to our reputation/business.

In my experience, PROC flippers get knocked down easily. Houdini and now R&M. If there is a fix, I am glad to hear and eagerly await it, but my opinion of the flippers is not libel. They have not performed as well as ANY other manufacturer; again, in my experience. I understand your desire to defend your product and look forward to improvements in R&M. I have balls slam into the flippers on AIQ with nary a budge, and I hope R&M can perform the same after updates.

Quoted from gstellenberg:

What would you like me to do besides explaining why you have knockdowns, propose the software commands that will close any logic gaps due to timing, and schedule work on the implementation of a complex "switch rule" that eliminates the need for those software commands? That's what I did, and then you attacked again.

I am not attacking you. When I said please do all you can, I was referring to this below. Anything to help flippers should be a priority IMHO:

Quoted from gstellenberg:

We've scoped the change and have scheduled it into our dev roadmap. That will eliminate the need for a few lines of code, and it would also eliminate the timing effect on tickles. As such it'll be nicer for programmers, but not fully necessary, hence the lower priority.

The hardware/software comparison was me misreading your original post regarding your improvements, putting the drive code into the base hardware. I was picturing a separate controller for some reason.

#11503 10 months ago

Yeah, I adjusted the EOSs to trigger as soon as the flipper started to drop, but then had the stuck flipper problem a fair bit and had to back off the EOS. It sounds like they may have sorted that out and we can soon retighten the EOS adjustments

#11533 10 months ago
Quoted from SpookyCharlie:

The EOS adjustment matters a bunch. And there are exactly zero ways to prevent a knock down off the pop bumper that is 3" away. An absolute rocket shot in the ship loop that comes straight at a flipper will more times than not do the same. If a scoop kick out takes down a flipper, then you need to adjust your EOS. We completely fixed it on our test games quickly on this code.

All three of these will collapse the flippers on my game. If I adjust the EOS closer to compensate, the flipper sticks up occasionally. Hold power is set to high. What else can I do to fix the problem?

Note that I have both MET and TWD, and as hard as Sparky, Prison and WW magnets throw the ball at the flippers, I've never had one collapse. BK2K has a U-turn even closer than the ship U-turn on R&M and its flippers don't collapse. I disagree that collapse should be considered "normal" in any condition.

EDIT, just read Arzoo's post that the sticking seemed fixed in this latest release, but the collapsing was worse... I haven't upgraded yet and not sure if I should at this point...

26
#11575 10 months ago

Very happy to say I tested some beta flipper code epthegeek made available last night, and the differences were immediately noticeable.

Trying to trap a ball on the left, had the slam ring fire it right into the upheld flipper and it didn't budge. Scoop shots rarely moved the right flipper, and when a particularly strong eject did push the tip down a bit, it immediately recovered. Everything feels a bit more snappy.

I think they're still working out an issue or two, but very promising so far! Note that testing was with all default settings.

#11711 10 months ago
Quoted from guitarded:

Well, I tried to download the update last night...no luck. 6 hours of downloading and 5-6 Failed attempts...
all I ended up doing was burning all of my bandwith allowance for the month.
I really don't like modern technology.

It doesn't sound like you're USING modern technology.. may I suggest upgrading to 20lb test string between your two cans?

Seriously, get a satellite provider. Not the best for online gaming but you should get decent throughput on a long download. Or do as others suggest and run a laptop to a McDonalds or Starbucks. Unfortunately, release first, update later is the norm for pinball now; people want the games NOW and don't want to wait through the whole development cycle.

#11712 10 months ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Quick thought...I was also thinking about the solution for this "problem" via my 3d printer. Based on the stresses which could be applied to the actual bushing I was thinking that it might be a better approach to build a platform which lowers the whole flipper mech, bushing and switches by 1/8th of an inch or so. If you were to 3d print a "plate" of sorts that everything sits on top of wouldn't Spooky be able to continue using off the shelf parts in tandem with their new and improved playfields?

Such a "plate" already exists in the form of 8 thick washers you can shim the flipper mounting bracket with. Biggest issue is properly resizing replacement screws so the bracket is secure without poking the screws through the top of the playfield.

#11736 10 months ago

Just want to point out for Spooky's sake that, unlike the knockdown problem that's now solved, the fade issue we're discussing here is NOT a Spooky thing... it's been around as long as PWM flippers have been around.

The center ramp on my Avengers becomes difficult to make once the flippers are hot, nearly impossible on a feed. Over half of our SAM games have flipper fans already, and this problem goes back to the LOTR days when the Ring would become totally unmakeable and Keefer had to program a single-ball version of the final DTR shot because flippers couldn't dislodge the ball in the original implementation.

I'm not saying it's not a problem, just not a Spooky problem. That steep left ramp and the flippers being aligned a bit upward at the factory exacerbates it a bit, but not a Spooky problem at the root. Aligning the right flipper to be even with the lane guide helps sweeten the left ramp shot, and I've found the right ramp can still be backhanded with a good shot.

#11767 10 months ago
Quoted from gstellenberg:

Sounds like there might be more going on with your machine causing the coils to have to work much hardware than on other machines. Probably best to discuss with Spooky support and isolate what's different.
- Gerry
https://www.multimorphic.com

Yes, double-check the flipper clearance off the playfield. My R&M shipped with the flippers mounted a bit tight against the playfield and I had to adjust the the clamp poisiton slightly. You want the plunger to go into the coil with no binding whatsoever, it has to go straight in, any angle will cause friction and weaken the flipper. Note that it is possible to clamp the bat too low, which also results in an angle and friction.

Also, if you align the angle of the flippers to the inlane guides (a bit "droopier" than as shipped) it will make the left ramp easier, it will be closer to the power sweet-spot on the flipper. See if that helps.

#11794 10 months ago

Got a question: where do the tibetan fans plug into the Spooky boards for +12vdc?

I haven't had much time at all this week to play/test other than a couple games on the beta code, which seemed fine. Gonna fire it up for a while tonight and see how things go. If I notice fade I do have some computer fans here to try, but was wondering where the power connector was.

I do think certain playstyles can adversely affect the temps, which may explain some variation between games. Things like lots of tap-tap-taps to deaden balls rolling up the flipper, flipper holds plus repeated cradle-separation re-flips til just enough oomph to succeed, holding while paging thu instant info, getting into MB frequently (not too hard to do on this game), etc.. may have something to do with it. A player just flipping on the fly may not generate the same temps.

#11827 10 months ago

Yes.. I really like Spooky as a company; I love this game, and only bring things up here to help get them fixed. We know Spooky isn't Stern, and I assume they don't do "sample runs" or have the ability to test games for months, and that these games are more hand-made. I don't think anyone wants perfection, just to make the games as good as they can be.

If nobody said anything about issues, we'd still be on the old flipper code, and I definitely like the new code better. Spooky is awesome for following this thread and being willing to look at the stuff we bring up.

FWIW, we played a fair bit last night on new release code and the flippers seemed OK after multiple games. Maybe a bit more fade after multiball, but left ramp was still makeable. Still no knockdowns. This was with no fans. I will likely add some, but I do that to many of my modern games.

To the person who's download craps out at 2.8GB, how much free space is left on your drive?

#11831 10 months ago

I think the latest code compensates for the ball missing the far upper-right switch:

"- Changed: The decision was made to move the loopback 'make' detection to the left switch for reliability"

Mine only triggers about half the time the upper loop is shot, so the update is appreciated. I noticed all my loop shots are now working.

#11853 10 months ago
Quoted from hocuslocus:

Had two WPC games where flipper fade was and issue, but found it was more a problem with mains power at the location.

Yeah, this is one nice thing about modern games and their switching power supplies... low mains voltage won't drag down all the secondaries like it does with WPC linear power supplies.

#11868 10 months ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

i can attest the anti rattle tape that pimball life sells elimimates the speaker vibration

FWIW, all the bass-rattle on my game came from the topglass's H-bar at the back, not the rails on the side. I just folded a piece of paper and wedged it between the glass and H-bar as a temporary solution, and all the rattle disappeared. Try taping just the rear of the topglass and see if that cures the rattle before doing the sides.

#11912 10 months ago
Quoted from snaroff:

The only explanation for why ST has more fade than IMDN/JP2/AIQ is the flipper code is somehow unique (not part of the Spike 2 platform)

I don't think ST has worse fade. Instead, it has two shots that absolutely require consistent flipper performance - the TK lock and the demogorgon mouth. TK needs strong shots all the time to work right, once the flippers fade a little it's no good. Demo needs the shot to come in at a certain angle and strength (not too hard, not too soft), and fade messes up those variables over time

All the PWM games fade, but certain playfield features suffer more from it. The steep left ramp is basically R&M's TK lock in this case.

In Elwin's games, Maiden's center ramp seems to be the only feature that suffers from fade, and it generally remains makeable. Maybe AIW BW, but I'm finding I can make it even with hot flippers, just need to be accurate and not attempt at all from a left-inlane feed.

#11927 10 months ago

His 272 posts got us improved flipper code; which is a hell of a lot more than your posts have gotten us

If you don't own an R&M, why are you here complaining about people trying to improve the game?

#11935 10 months ago
Quoted from jguzik420:

How are people's flippers when they start a multiball? Mine kind of freak when I'm in an adventure and start a multiball. More so than before. (And no I'm not in a dimension, I've been to the dimension where the left flipper controls your upper right that's not what's happening)

Flippers here work fine. R&M multiball start is brutal though, releasing the two locked balls to slowly roll to the flippers, then firing the last one down just as they arrive to completely mess up whatever catches or flips you had planned.

#11939 10 months ago
Quoted from jguzik420:

Apparently I explained incorrectly...when multiballs start, and I'm not touching the flipper buttons. The flippers go up and down on their own. They flip by themselves. Hope that makes sense

Quoted from guitarded:

You need a young priest and an old priest...

Haha yea that's definitely not normal; I've never seen the flippers operate on their own on my game. Might have a switch issue going on...

#11957 10 months ago

Yup, need a google account, and then after logging in it said access must be requested.

Thanks for making this!

#11963 10 months ago

I was curious about this and now the manual really has me wondering:

"Stacking an Adventure start on the Multiball start, along with making it quite a bit easier to make progress in the Adventure, will actually combine the two ball saver times"

This never happens for me, always starts at 10s. Is this an outdated rule or a bug? It's pretty easy to stack adv+mb; were 20sec ballsavers considered too generous?

#11973 10 months ago

The timer can theoretically show up to 99. It shows additive time correctly for multiball stacks.

Start gromflomite then bang on the meeseeks target to bring in mania before the first ballsaver expires and you'll see it add 10s on.

#11989 10 months ago

As soon as you enter a dimension the portal gun power starts dropping. If you hit the spinner to charge it back to the top while still in the dimension, it'll stay fully charged for a while, allowing you to jump directly to a new dimension from the old one. However, if you screw around and don't hit the garage or recharge the gun with more spinner, it'll start losing power again. That's probably what you're seeing.

I've never had a charged gun lose power while not in a dimension.

#11995 10 months ago
Quoted from Zablon:

Today I experienced the magnet not coming on for multiple attempts. I will keep an eye on this and see if it is a gap issue, but it hadn't been an issue until today

Oh, regarding this, I don't think the magnet works if the right flipper is up.

#12036 10 months ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Played a JJP GNR SE today at a major pinball retailer (60 games on display). Man, the flippers were lame. Game was just out of the box...hopefully the flippers can be dialed in (my DILE flippers felt way better). The R&M flippers with the latest/greatest code feel waaay better!

When I played a GnR LE on location, the ball barely made it to the back of the UPF on a clean shot.. sometimes clean shot rolled back anyway. Game was only a couple weeks old at the time. I just figured it was JJP and their silly-low default flipper power settings. People who own the game seem to be turning the power up and it works OK. Sucks for location players, and yea, R&M with new code is definitely better.

1 week later
#12205 9 months ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Could be because your switch is not registering. Maybe a fast shot? Haven’t had the issue since installing the mag switch, but try playing around the angle of the switch wire.

Yeah, my right orbit shots will miss the UR switch and go into the garage fairly often. epthegeek added compensation for this switch on upper loop shots, but there's nothing he can do for right orbit shots that miss the UR switch. I'm going to go through my parts playfields to see if I can find a rollunder switch assy, that would fix the problem... although TBH I like the portal feed to L flipper much better than the out of control feed coming out of the upper loop entrance...

#12276 9 months ago
Quoted from spida1a:

New member of the ole’ family!!!

She looks great! Nice smile.. hope she likes your R&M pin

1 week later
#12363 9 months ago

Hey epthegeek, any chance for a option to make mode selection deterministic?

Perhaps set a playfield feature to increment the current "lit" mode, and have the scoop timer briefly show the current lit mode number anytime that playfield feature is hit? You could be nice and make it something simple like a ramp... or slightly evil and make it the slam ring, or really evil and make it the spinner LOL Would add a little strategy, allowing more freedom to setup desirable stacks. Leaving dimensions randomized still mixes things up.

Would also help with troubleshooting, making it easier to setup situations for testing, debugging, etc. I was going to try troubleshooting Schwifty back in the day but the game decided to be a dick and never awarded it when I pulled the glass...

#12366 9 months ago
Quoted from northerndude:

I'll go to the grave arguing for randomized dimensions during normal game play. Maybe the randomization is taken away for tourney rules, where the adventured & dimensions are in order to have less chaos for tourneys. But for my home, I want to never know whats coming, that's the fun part

Yep that's why I said option, doesn't need to be default either. I assume tournament mode already gives players in the same game the same order of modes (if it doesn't, it should), but it'd be nice to have the option to try setting up specific stacks.

Or is it already deterministic and we just don't know? Time to start counting flips?

#12386 9 months ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

Stop...just....stop. This isn't a free app or a $60 video game. It's a pinball machine, that SHOULD come code complete

Yeah, and you know, they could call it code complete *today*, considering it now has everything one would expect in a pinball ruleset. But there's still tons of content from the series that COULD be included.

I don't expect Spooky to continually pump out pinball code for free. Anything beyond a standard ruleset is bonus, and if DLC fees would encourage them to make even more modes, I have no problem with that.

#12388 9 months ago

Stern already slipped down that slope with Munsters and it didn't work out too well. Spooky is well beyond it.

The game has 9 normal modes, a mini-wiz mode (pickle rick), a main wiz mode, a main multiball, a quick multiball with associated multiplier mode, along with a few dozen dimensions to combine with the modes, each with its own sound/light/scoring changes. Also a mystery award and a magnasave to round things out.

The game is basially complete. Would you be happy if Spooky announced the code is done and they're moving on to the next game? Or would you like to see even more modes?

Again, anything beyond a normal ruleset is bonus. If Spooky wants to give us more modes for free, that's awesome of them, but I don't expect it.

#12392 9 months ago
Quoted from Westbury:

i hope as much as everyone else that the contract never expires so we get never ending updates haha

Yeah, everyone would love more updates and content. Just that some of us recognize that at some point, someone has to pay for it. The game budget did not include a neverending development cycle.

-5
#12393 9 months ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

I think as a designed game experience with great rules, you COULD call the game complete today....but, if they want to add more content, cool. Charge me for it? After I've already spent $8000+? I'll sell the f*cking game and never buy another Spooky pinball again.

There's something wrong with your head. Seriously. If you're OK with the game being complete as-is (and you admit it's basically complete), then why on earth would you get all pissy if Spooky makes additional content for THOSE OF US WHO ARE WILLING TO PAY FOR IT? You certainly don't have to buy it.

Or are you trying to force your particular flavor of "morals" on those of us who recognize hard work deserves reward and are willing to pay for more content?

Quoted from Rarehero:

You've already spent $8000. You're covered for any future code updates.

Yep. BTW "code updates" are not DLC. That C stands for Content, not updates.

Quoted from Rarehero:

DLC model makes sense. Pinball, a few hundred people? Does not make sense.

This is the one thing you might be right about, but that is spooky's call.

-2
#12398 9 months ago
Quoted from Westbury:

Yes exactly, and i could never bring myself to pay for DLC pretty much on any game/console/pinball machine i own or play, its just not a model i'm willing to pay to enforce these companies to do more of.

DLC is fine as long as it's new stuff. I bought and finished Fallout 4... then they came out with Far Harbor and I went ahead and got it because it was basically a whole new map, with new NPCs, new guns, new targets, etc. I didn't want a new game, I wanted more of the old game, and that's exactly what good DLC is.

Bad DLC is stuff that was likely cut from the original game, or small updates and tweaks without any actual new content.

Spooky continuing to add modes would fall under the former description. They gave us everything they promised in the game, it is feature complete. New stuff isn't free.

-1
#12399 9 months ago
Quoted from RobT:

Do you understand the concept of a slippery slope,

Yes I do and I disagree with your doom and gloom predictions. That simple.

#12404 9 months ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

False equivalency. $60 digital game vs. $8000 physical machine.
Pinball is not a video game or app. Period.

That 8K is paying for 275lbs worth of wood, metal, glass and plastic. Doesn't change the fact DLC is simply buying more content for it.

Are you going to sell all your older games as Soren is now selling DLC for them?

Y'all are crazy melodramatic over this DLC thing, btw

#12415 9 months ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

Never. I'm not being hyperbolic. I love R&M, but the second it offered a paid DLC subscription model, I would instantly list it for sale. I'd never buy another Spooky. Done.
Thankfully it's never going to happen, because it's a horrible idea & the games aren't set up for it....so, why don't we end this silly bullshit & get back to our awesome game.

Spooly oughta offer a $5 upgrade just to fuck with you and your melodramatic terror of DLC

-1
#12419 9 months ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

I hope the next Spooky game is $15k, has $2000 topper & won’t even work unless you pay $1000 a year for a subscription. Just for you.

That's a pretty lame and uninspired comeback, sounds like it came from a playground. Go watch more R&M and brush up

#12421 9 months ago
Quoted from bkerins:

No. You are Morty, and Morty doesn't get to make those choices.
You can set the machine for tournament play, which standardizes the order of both dimensions and adventures.

Yeah you're right, that wouldn't play into the storyline. Would be nice to setup some stacks but no biggie. Glad to hear tournament mode is setup to equalize things for the players.

#12435 9 months ago

We did have a similar situation once where we got more balls than expected during a grom/meeseeks stack, and draining did not end the mb. Buddy shut the game off before I could grab logs, but I will keep an eye on things and try to determine the cause if it happens again.

#12488 9 months ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

Does anyone else experience a large discrepancy on the ball launch settings? The default (12) works ok if you set the pitch at 6.5, but I'm at 6.9 and I find that is in between the factory setting of 12 and 13. On 12, I get many launches that won't make it to the end of the wireform, but at 13 more often they are too powerful and bounce around at the end of the wireform and come back.

For me, the solution was complaining on pinside; since then it hasn't missed a single launch but seriously, after complaining I did a few more tweaks, and I think the thing that is most important is making sure the end closest to the player is shoved into the playfield as far as it'll go, then jam something underneath at the bends to keep it that way. That makes it consistent, then it's just a matter of finding the best launch value. One notch above default works for me.

#12490 9 months ago
Quoted from wolv3:

I could see them limiting the amount of balls given from the ball saver so players don't just let the ball drain so they can shoot upper loops on the shooter lane feed.

Yeah I've deliberately let 'em drain for upper flipper shots in the past, didn't realize there was a limit, will have to stop that now LOL

When I didn't get some back, I figured the saver timed out while re-launching. The game has to wait longer than normal between multiball ballsave launches because I don't think it has a way to tell if a launch has made it to the playfield, other than waiting to make sure there wasn't a rollback.

We've had the disappearing voices thing happen a few times as well and I'm actively looking for it to happen now to try narrowing the cause.

#12492 9 months ago
Quoted from JohnDeere:

I like how it is setup currently because the super jackpot is on the garage (which is great), if i had unlimited ball saves I could just light super jackpot and start intentionally draining over and over to bang away at the garage from relaunch.

The super is the total of prior jackpots collected til then, and it resets after collect, so you really have to shoot around the playfield first to make it worthwhile.

#12504 9 months ago
Quoted from wolv3:

It was designed to be an ass kicker. If it's too hard for you maybe you can trade it in for 2-3 thunderbirds that you'll be able to hit every shot and play forever.

I've gotten 2.7B on JPPro and over a billion on AIQ and Maiden, but my best R&M score is still in the mid 30M range. That said, I haven't yet done any of the tweaks suggested here... out of the box it's brutal. I want to get a lot of games in it in its shipped state before twiddling. Having a good number of scoop rejects and right orbit shots that just die, so tweaking should help my scores (I hope)

#12505 9 months ago
Quoted from Zablon:

I think something I didn't mention as a qualifier is that you must actually complete (green) all the adventures. Why not make it really difficult to get

Greening all adventures for a perfect card (starting with none lit) is SDMEWM-level accomplishment IMHO. Cannot fuckup ANY mode, and some are pretty hard to finish with winning conditions.

#12508 9 months ago

Sssssoren and the sssssslippery sssssslope of dlssssseee.. but we ssshall not sssssssssspeak of ssssssssuch things anymore...

#12532 9 months ago

What about bad USB port? Steve, have you tried every USB port on the motherboard?

#12541 9 months ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

If it starts the update process, that means the USB was detected, so I wouldn't tend to suspect this; but anything is possible.

Where is the data extracted to? Could that device have kicked it, causing the process to immediately fail?

#12552 9 months ago

Glad to hear it's working! I know the frustration.. I've got a WPT that only works with one ancient 256mb USB stick I had laying around, absolutely refused to work with anything else. At least WPT is pretty much done with updates but it was an adventure back in the day.

#12610 9 months ago
Quoted from RobF:

It seems strange to me that the contacts are having difficulty conducting after such little usage

Pop is next to the flippers, might be getting more black dust that typical on the contacts.

#12678 9 months ago

You can partially behead the pin to get it through the door:

http://www.idsa.net/behead/

Pins with nodeboard setups are easier to completely behead, but IIRC Spooky still has standard harnesses to the playfield.

#12701 9 months ago
Quoted from snaroff:

I found this recent thread really interesting...actually one of the reasons I sold my AFMr. Hard for serious players to love a game with "weird" flippers.

Yeah I could not own a remake either, just too different. I respect those who feel they're the same, but can't agree. Spooky's getting close; I think the flippers are better than before, but then again I'm not getting phantom flips either. Right now my biggest problem is choking and not being able to make shots in Moonmen.. ugg LOL

#12726 9 months ago

Yea I played a GnR LE on location that couldn't get the ball all the way up to the UPF half the time. Not just a Spooky issue.

#12745 9 months ago

Yeah I noticed the stronger return spring when adjusting the flippers back in the day... I'll swap some WMS springs onto my mechs and see if that changes how they play.

#12846 9 months ago

Callouts are the best hands-down. Awesome integration of the theme.

If you're looking for new content, play as far into Pirates as you can get. Every shot has a unique callout.

#12887 8 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Now, just from re-aligning it, the flipper now fades after a couple of minutes of play, and the left ramp is impossible to make.

You clamped the flipper shaft too high or low when you adjusted the droop, and it's pulling in at an angle now, causing friction and weakening after a few minutes.

#12890 8 months ago

I stopped using the tool and instead manually eyeball the plunger. Too much variance in playfield/bushing/bracket size and installs these days to blindly trust the tool.

With the flipper resting on the bushing, the clamp should be placed so the plunger goes into the coil perfectly straight when the flipper is activated. I snug things up, then use my finger to push the plunger into the coil a few times with the flipper on the bushing to make sure it's correct height, then adjust the droop, then confirm the clamp placement didn't change, then tighten up more.

#12892 8 months ago

It's not a box per se, more like wrapping, the bottom is on the pallet. Don't cut the strap holding the head til the game is up on legs. There's instructions in the parts box on top, get those first and you should be fine.

#12948 8 months ago

Y'all are spoiled with Stern debounce code... try slamming a WPC and enjoy your ba-ba-boom DangerDANGER TILT

#12954 8 months ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

It’s got de-bounce, it’s even adjustable in the settings up to more than 6x as long as default if you want. If it didn’t it would be warning-warning-tilt REAL FAST.

hmm, i guess i might have noticed that if I'd actually installed the tilt..

Problem is, Spooky games are built like brick shithouses. I am 145lbs and can't move them with any kind of finesse. Spike games are no problem, I can nudge, move and wiggle and make saves within the limits of the tilt bob. R&M doesn't fucking budge unless I manhandle it. The tilt shall remain on the floor of the cabinet til I can take on some Armothy training.

#12966 8 months ago

At one point there were at least five BBBs in Cincinnati.. not sure any of 'em are left now, maybe one?

1 week later
#13221 8 months ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

I do need to look into handing that ball situation better though.

I gotta say your ball handling is most excellent. The other day I started Meeseeks during some mode and was getting GMB locks, draining into the ballsave, adding a ball, more drains, another GMB lock, added GMB in, more drains, I think another AAB, with a couple portal shots sprinkled in, and the game kept track of everything perfectly.

Rick did have to adjust his balls afterward, it was that good.

IMHO pretty impressive considering all the switches involved with the horseshoe, trough, etc.

#13261 8 months ago

I'd PM or email Spooky and ask directly... PM spookyluke on here.

#13349 8 months ago
Quoted from snaroff:

At this point, sensing your level of frustration, Spooky management needs to take this issue seriously!

People tend to get frustrated when others who are ignorant about the situation (no one outside of Spooky has the code) try telling them what they're doing and why it's wrong. Things were fine til y'all started doing shit like insisting "original" is different, when he's looking at the exact same code on his screen...

Report problems with specifics and don't tell Eric how to code and things will be OK. I am 100% certain Spooky is taking this very seriously.

10
#13376 8 months ago
Quoted from Fytr:

Nobody attacked Eric, they were simply trying to communicate what they are experiencing. Eric took it personally and his frustrations boiled over into unprofessional responses IMHO.

What he wrote is *nothing* compared to all the other bullshit that gets posted here daily.

When someone is telling him "look at the code again" and he's already looked at it 100 times this week, yea a flat-earther comparison is quite appropriate. Get a thicker skin, recognize when people are doing their best and stop giving them shit.

Releasing code that allows users to adjust things to their particular machine was plenty good enough for me. Code can only work around hardware issues up to a point.

#13382 8 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

I sure hope Spooky's going back to a more standard playfield thickness. ANOTHER variable with Spooky machines isn't really great.

Yeah that was a rather unpleasant surprise. It will make future maintenance on the game much more "interesting" in a bad way, now that we have to keep track of exactly which screws go into each hole. With less depth, holes will be more likely to strip out as well.

#13385 8 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Do we know why they're using two different length screws in the flipper plates?

I believe the standard (longer) screws are used where the playfield topside is covered (apron, plastics) and an errant poke-through the top wouldn't be visible. Otherwise the shorter screws are used to prevent such an ocurrence where it'd be visible.

#13387 8 months ago

And now for a change of subject...

I've adjusted the factory LCD and enabled gamma, and honestly the picture is pretty good; but R&M has very colorful content and I'd like to source the absolute best possible display available. Bright with deep colors and wide viewing angle.

There was talk around a few models in the past, but I was wondering if by now there was a known "best" model? I'd love to drop an OLED in this thing but unsure of the game's specific requirements. Is it 30pin or 40pin, etc?

Who all has installed replacement screens so far, which one, and what do you think of it?

#13446 8 months ago

What actor says the line in the show? I'd always assume licensing issues when something has to be left out. Very cool that they were able to re-add the dimension without it.

#13460 8 months ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Just discovered this gem.

Is that the abort/restart screen? I did that once way back when and never again...

#13472 8 months ago

Yep, flippers are good to go now. Just played a bunch, no collapsing at all. Fade was consistent with any other modern game, was still able to make left ramps after a half dozen games and I'm not running any fans right now. I never had the self-flipping thing during MB and didn't notice anything on this version either. Everything felt solid. I reset all flipper settings to default before playing.

Hopefully this is the end of flipper issues

I just noticed the most jerry award, I used 9 ballsaves in one game yea baby!

#13484 8 months ago
Quoted from CashMoney:

Another bug I found is the antigravity meter now shows nothing. Worked fine on the April code earlier today. I did a power cycle and it still didn’t show anything.

Mine was working fine after 5/11 code update, specifically looked for it after reading your post... double-check connectors?

#13508 8 months ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

I agree! Not a Spooky problem, but a problem none the less. It is the worst design in pinball. I’ve always wondered why flippers don’t join together with some kind of lock pin that slides through the flipper shaft or maybe even set screws. The “squeezed metal” approach seems really ineffective. Perhaps the torque is just too high for other approaches…but I doubt it.

Set screws have been used in the past.. they wind up gouging the flipper bat shaft and make future adjustments difficult. I figure they also added to manufacturing costs.

The silver bolt shown is fine when it's made properly. WMS switched to them later in the WPC run to make installation easier and I don't recall any of those ever breaking. Their pawl clamps aren't so hot, you only get a few reinstalls before they close up and stop tightening.

#13512 8 months ago
Quoted from Extraballz:

Two most important parts of a pin IMO are the playfield and the flippers. These should be of the highest quality or you are not making great pins. I have faith Spooky can find the solution to the flipper issues like they did with the playfield. Go Spooky!

Latest code fixed the problems. If you play the game hard you might want to add fans, but that's no different from most games these days.

#13597 8 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

FINALLY played one that was dialed in almost perfectly. This game is great. I was laughing so much and I know nothing about the show. That Swifty mode is great. Same for the Roy one I think is the name.
Loved going for mega seeds and stacking with MB and a mode and dimensions. Very very addicting. Can’t wait to play again.

Just to put this in context, the game he played was mine, and I have done *zero* dialing-in except grinding down a rivet on the right ramp (causing airballs), aligning the flippers to the inlanes and installing the latest code with all defaults for flipper settings. What he noticed are the differences between a build in the 80s vs a build in mid 300s (mine).

We played all night, to the point we went from a clean playfield to visible balltrails even on the trap position. NO flipper collapse except for one point-blank pop slam into left flipper, and it recovered immediately. Left ramp was always makeable from a trap, and I'm not even running fans. Set a new GC (beat my buddy's old GC by 600K)

I still have a few tweaks to do to the upper area (diverter and UR corner switches) but I'm really happy with how it plays now.

#13600 8 months ago

I don't doubt mine can be tweaked to play even more smoothly, just saying the tweaks aren't absolutely necessary to enjoy the game. I've got a list of adjustments I plan on making at some point...

1 week later
#13866 8 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Has anyone had any luck improving that? If so, what worked? Changes to the upper flipper? Ball guide?

Neither. I found if I watch the ball rolling down to the flipper (from the launch), I can time the shot much better than if I watch the flipper as the ball approaches it. Haven't touched the guides yet, although I'm sure they can be improved a bit (the upper guide is 3/16" away from the upper flipper)

If the ball is coming around with some speed (left ramp or from an upper loop shot) it's much easier to hit the garage with normal timing.

Best combo in pinball currently: right ramp to left ramp (lights mode) to upper loop to garage (light and start dimension) to scoop from portal eject (starts mode).

#13923 8 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

I *really hope* this was a one-time dalliance and they are going back to full-thickness playfields on the next game.
Like, really, really.

Yes, for the record I'd rather pay a couple hundred more and have standard thickness, it's worth it to not have to worry about screw lengths and parts fitting when servicing the game down the road.

#13924 8 months ago
Quoted from bkerins:

Each completion (green stamp) gives a +1x multiplier to scores when a Morty Card is completed, which can be very big!

And can invoke much sadness when you make 3 quick 5x potion shots for 6M then drain immediately after the ballsaver ends

#13937 8 months ago
Quoted from riggy469:

Rick and Morty number 719 made it to the Western mass pinball club today! Game seems to be playing great, only odd thing that happened, and I don’t think it’s correct, is during certain modes we ended up getting a second ball plunged into play. Definitely happened during scary terry and pirates of the pancreas. I don’t think that is normal. It was NOT a multiball stacking. I noticed that every time it happened, we had one ball lock for the ship. Is this normal, and if not, has anyone had this happen and figured out a fix?

You probably started Meeseeks Mania, a 2 ball multiball. Did you hear Rick saying something about way too many meeseeks as the second ball was autoplunged? Hit the right target to light blue Meeseeks shots, collect 3(?) to start the multiball.

#13942 8 months ago
Quoted from riggy469:

Can you start that during an adventure mode?

Yes, can bring it in almost anytime. It starts with little fanfare, but all the Meeseeks will light blue.

1 week later
#14188 7 months ago

IS THIS NOT THE FACE OF A MORTY WITH COPIOUS AMOUNTS OF MEGASEEDS NESTLED WITHIN HIS SPHINCTER??!

20210607_233702_resized (resized).jpg20210607_233629_resized (resized).jpg20210607_233609_resized (resized).jpg
#14190 7 months ago

I did that exactly once. The shaming scarred me; never again.

#14244 7 months ago

bottom right of mobo, just drop the speaker panel, no need to remove the backglass

The USB ports face down, it's a metal block coming off the motherboard

#14265 7 months ago

Grind down the center-facing sides of the rivets on the right ramp, those are what causes the airballs. Left side rivet especially.

#14367 7 months ago

Hahaha yea thats a bad stack. Had a d3d-f4m come up during Rickall once, that kinda sucked.

#14391 7 months ago
Quoted from SuperPinball:

I wish there was an easy mode code like there is no countdown or timer to make the shots. I like to take my time and cradle the ball, if I miss then I miss. The game for me is tough enough that I don't need the additional stress of hurrying up or being penalized for cradling or missing.

Not all the modes have a timer. Rickall won't end til everything is dead - take your time and bring in a multiball. I don't think there's timers on Scary Terry or Armothy... OTOH the timer is part of the joke on Pirates, and is important in Moonmen and Schwifty. Pickle Rick has timed and untimed parts. I like the variety.

#14393 7 months ago
Quoted from fnord:

The game definitely plays off getting you stressed. I wasn't trying to bring in Meeseeks for a long while just because they stressed me out.

Meeseeks are critical to good scores. Bring 'em in and USE THEM, that's why they exist

#14530 7 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

My advice remains the same. Turn off the restart.

I think he just likes looking at butts.

#14536 7 months ago

With the way megaseeds work, it's better to have a killer last ball than first ball. More seeds to cash in.

#14538 7 months ago
Quoted from Zablon:

t's not about 1 good ball, it's about 3 good balls, and if the first one is crap, no point continuing

You are training yourself to lose in competition, but as you said, your game, play as you like...

#14612 7 months ago
Quoted from estrader:

For flipper alignment is the photo where the flipper isn’t touching the straight edge incorrect and the photo where the end of the flipper is touching the straight edge correct? Thanks for helping never tried to do this before without the holes.
Is there another way that is better I might be missing?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Neither photo shows it "correct" as I'd put it. Align the flipper so the top side is pefectly in-line with the straightedge on the inlane. Not angled slightly away (upper photo) or towards (lower photo). Flipper top side should be parallel and slightly away from the straightedge the whole length of the flipper.

#14681 6 months ago

the outer walls of the u-turn will get hammered and bend back a bit, exposing the edges of the front posts for those perfect SDTM deflections. Bend the outer walls back to vertical to eliminate the deflection, then disable the ballsaver.

#14743 6 months ago