#386 ... I’ll be here a while.
(Topic ID: 257850)
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Rick and Morty (Blood Sucker Edition)
Spooky Pinball, 2020-
Rick and Morty (Standard)
Spooky Pinball, 2020
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Quoted from kidchrisso:Can Spooky add these hinges to their list of add ons spookycharlie so they can be factory installed during the process?[quoted image]
I’d be in on that as a factory option.
1 week later
Quoted from Skyemont:Why do these post look like they were burned. [quoted image][quoted image]
The silicone post sleeves on my HUO JP2 look the same at ~1000 plays.
1 month later
Quoted from FatPanda:7/16" OD rubber is working well so far. Mine has shifted a little bit to the side but it works.[quoted image][quoted image]
I did the same thing with an AFMr. Worked nicely to slow down the ball and prevent rattling.
1 week later
Quoted from Yelobird:Making these changes I will say Drastically improved our confidence in Cleanly making those shots as designed and fully enjoying the experience.
I’m sad to see that ball guide so misaligned with the upper flipper. That should be a factory fix. I tweak my games all the time - no stranger to making adjustments but to have to drill holes in an $8k NIB just doesn’t seem right.
I hope these become factory fixes before #386 comes off the line.
Quoted from kklank:Be more specific please. What adjustments are the “severe ones”?
Um... drilling holes in a brand new playfield??
1 month later
Quoted from Whysnow:Is the death save Animation triggered by outlane switch followed by any other switch in play?
Curious of the logic you used to trigger it.
Yes, that’s what Bowen said on his stream.
Quoted from delt31:Just confirming this is the Shaker to buy for this game? Or are they beginning to install the Shaker at factory?
https://www.pinballlife.com/spooky-pinball-shaker-motor-kit-for-p-roc-system-machines.html
Factory option - the code for the shaker just got implemented.
Quoted from iepinball:1 minute of slow-mo scoop action, post-adding washers and bending scoop hood.
Sexy 
4 weeks later
Quoted from scorche:#120 has finally come home!
Timeline of events that might help with the "how long until..." questions:
2019-12-16: Ordered (obviously)
2019-12-19: Build number revealed
2020-06-04: Add On List sent and ordered final configuration
2020-06-18: Invoiced and paid
2020-06-24: Date of Birth as marked on the box
2020-06-29: Ready to ship confirmation and tracking information given (using RL Carriers to AZ)
2020-07-07: Arrived with residential delivery
Not accounting for covid.
4 weeks later
Quoted from epthegeek:Damn good point - I will add that in.
Gotta’ love the one liners (of code that is).
1 week later
Quoted from zaphX:Well let's do the math.
We are 8 months into production. 151 is about_ to ship.
(750-151) / (151 /= 31.73 months remaining in production at the current rate.
Now, there are some problems with this. We don't know how many Euro/Aussie games went out. COVID took the factory down for a while, etc.
Fucks sake, not again.
1 week later
Quoted from jonesjb:• Kruzman playfield.
What did the Kruzman option cost, if you don’t mind me asking?
I’m #386 - have a little time on my hands.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Ozzy:Rick and morty arriving Monday. Anyone have any interest. Ordered this before I lost work.
And leave it in the box. Sorry about your situation.
2 weeks later
Quoted from jonesjb:I've fixed it a few times by pushing it in, but am now looking for something that stays fixed.
Dab of hot glue??
1 week later
Quoted from ArcadeBar:... Haven’t worked up the courage to do that to my wife yet tho
She’s the best
{{{{ kidding!!! couldn’t resist }}}
I know you’re busting your ass on this. Seems like you’re solo and a build like this is a tall order for a software guy on his own (I used to be a software guy).
On top of it all, to throw yourself in a public forum where every ‘good idea fairy’ has the next great thing you should include in the next build .... you’re a saint.
Keep on crushing it - beers on me if we ever meet.
1 week later
Quoted from Ty-Arnold:I am glad you are all enjoying your pins. Does anyone have any idea when spooky is going to release a new title?
Late 2021-ish’ ...???
They seem to be about 1/3 of the way through manufacturing R&M.
3 weeks later
1 week later
Quoted from PinMonk:Is Rick and Morty (the show) extreme enough to have pedo dimension with Michael Jackson, Prince Andrew, Roman Polanski, R Kelly, etc alt-versions all roaming around proclaiming their innocence?
wow.....
1 week later
Quoted from harryhoudini:I've had that upper right switch issue going for a while and I've been trying to adjust it but I think the space back there is enough that it will always be possible for the ball to slide by the switch. I sat there recording it for a while the other night trying to figure out the exact replication for it and all I can tell is that it is simply the switch wire being pushed to the side. The video goes on for a bit but you can hear the switch test noises and notice when the switch doesn't trigger.
Tighten the ball guide angle - bend it slightly more towards the switch. I think it might fix your problem. Or build up the end with mylar so it forces ball towards the switch if you don’t want or can’t bend the ball guide. I don’t have my game yet but shouldn’t be a difficult tweak.
77246B99-5D93-49E9-AF84-9C961BC30D82 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:When did you receive your build sheet? Expecting my invoice soon.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/151#post-5960418
2 weeks later
Quoted from PinMonk:So if the bushing didn't change, what did change to push the pushing higher relative to the top of the playfield? Is the playfield wood about 1/8" thinner? There's not a whole lot of options. Either the bushing got longer, or if that didn't the flipper plate got flatter or the playfield got thinner. I'm assuming that making a special bushing is easier than fixing the other issue to just keep using the standard WMS bushings...
The consensus is/was that the playfield is thinner than the old playfields.
#380 arrived yesterday.
Was expecting #386 as that was my place in line. All the options look correct - maybe just a placard mix-up??? Anyhow - if you’re the owner of #380..... enjoy #386.
Adjusted flipper angles and two orbit rails and now just the right flippers and she should be good. Going to try the flipper reed switch fix tomorrow. Having the weird right upper flipper actuation and lower right flipper ‘knock-down’ issue.
1 week later
Quoted from DanQverymuch:Anybody else had the thrill of CLUNK lost ball in the cabinet yet?
The ball fits through there rather easily. Didn't take long to figure out what happened!
[quoted image]
Yup.
1 week later
Quoted from bjsilverballs:Can I throw a 5A fast blow in there or is that a terrible idea?
3 amps compared to 5 amps is a pretty significant difference. What was the original fuse rated at?
Quoted from bjsilverballs:Original fuses are 4A slow-blow.
I don’t think I would risk it but that’s just me. Even a 1 amp difference could be problematic for these controller boards.
Quoted from guitarded:Been waiting to ask if someone had thrown this in and if it fits in both position of that loop. If I am in for one, I think I am in for 2...
I installed 3 last week. The two like you mentioned and the third one in the inner (spinner) loop. I adjusted the ball guide on the to the point where the inner loop switch became questionable.
They’re really fantastic switches. Highly recommended.
Quoted from epthegeek:That’s not a freeze. It’s a logic/timing issue when you end an adventure exactly when the ball drains and it doesn’t proceed to the bonus right away that I haven’t figured out mostly because i haven’t been able to recreate it. This is the first report of it happening on purge...
Happened to me on Get Schwifty.
Multi-ball + Get Schwifty + end of mode, all balls drained at the same time. ‘Perfect storm’ kind of thing.
Quoted from metallik:You really should unbox and setup the game. It's going to need tweaks before being location-ready. If you don't lower the flippers (file the bushings or shim the plates), it plays kinda meh, hard to slapsave and the rubber wears fast. Might need switch and other adjustments. Lower the scoop, etc. Consider all the time playing and tweaking (and playing and testing and more playing) as a necessary business expense. Write it off on taxes. Convinced yet?
This is good advice.
My game required nearly every tweak - granted, I’m pretty anal about how my games shoot and flow.
Quoted from harryhoudini:I did the bushing shave (heyo) and if you haven't I suggest you do before you keep playing. I have one done and the other undone and it's night and day. I was complaining how there was no way I could casually hit shots consistently in this game without trapping the ball. I'm no twitch streamer but I can do ok on a good day and it's easy to tell the difference. My wife also agreed. Flipper now sits nicely just above the playfield and the ball hits the center of the rubber. The flipper is no longer weak at the tip and doesn't get pushed down as much. There isn't as much play in the flipper when the ball strikes it. I'm thinking this is why Spooky was setting the flippers to that weird location from the factory and Scott said to use the dots. Don't know why there isn't consensus there but this seems plausible. I can hit the backhand shots on the flipper I changed even with it aligned at the dots (well, if a toothpick were in the hole kind of alignment) whereas I had to have the flippers canted upward like from the factory to hit those shots. Right flipper to right ramp, no problem.
I replaced the pawl with a single nut type without the hex cap screw, personal preference. I also stuck on some of those captive metal nut things to attach the apron to the hangers. I don't understand the screw and nut setup there, no way I'm undoing that more than once before I figure out a different solution. I think these were laying around from a set of car speakers, finally I kept something that was useful.
Oh yeah, put the trough and backboard lighting in. With RGBW strips it can be ridiculously bright if you want.
Here is my very unhelpful instructional video:
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I get a lot of knock-down currently. I’m going to do this change this week - interested to see how it affects my flippers. Been a little frustrated with it lately.
Quoted from TireFryer426:The second is with the horseshoe. Mine seems to have a little wobble on the left side that will result in a SDTM if I hit the right side hard.
Intended or no?
There is a setting for a ball save time on horseshoe - I set mine to 2 seconds.
Quoted from mariobeans:Also I shaved my bushings down and the game is so much better.
Did my two lower flippers yesterday and was pleasantly surprised how much of a difference it made. I’ll be trimming the top flipper bushing today.
I can’t imagine this being someone’s first NIB. My machine has required nearly every tweak on the list.
3 weeks later
Quoted from mariobeans:I also tried the no fear spacer, hated it and ended up buying a williams switch that would reach the button. That didn't work since the williams switches are meant for high voltage so I was getting issues from that. I then took the long leaf out of the williams switch and added it to spookys. Feels perfect now!
I could have just bought the leaf if I knew the williams switch wouldn't work.[quoted image]
Both leaves are copper - very easy to solder them together. That’s the route I’m going to take.
My switch is all messed up after the zip tie fix. Top flipper flips first which means no staging (yes, I know, it just needs adjusting).
This looks like the correct fix. Thanks for sharing.
Quoted from SPAMP:Got replacement drop target switch in mail from Spooky support.... After about a dozen games the new switch failed too. Wonder if it's the switches or something else causing it. :/
What were the symptoms of your bad drop target switch?
My Morty drop target is getting wonky - cycles like it’s trying to pop up then gives up.
Quoted from SPAMP:Yes that's the issue. Does it prevent you from locking a ball?
How about the switch test?
It does prevent me from locking a ball. I’ll have to run the test when I get back to my machine. I’m away for work for a few weeks.
Quoted from RobT:I previously didn't think I needed these. After playing last night and paying closer attention....I need these.
Where do you order them?
They’re awesome switches - you won’t regret it.
I ended up replacing these 3 (see pic). I adjusted the outside ball guide on left orbit so much that the switch was nearly worthless. And of course the two on the right that most people swap.
759EA050-640D-4F71-A0A4-5A5F07A8CE08 (resized).jpegQuoted from Cheeks:Does the one at the top of the lane next to the right ramp need to be replaced too? The one immediately to the left of the 2 on the right. I thought the first ones people were doing were the ones in that turn-around lane.
I moved my ball guides a LOT to get the flow right. The inside of the U-turn is narrow enough that it doesn’t need it. The exit from the U-turn is typically problematic. I did quite a bit of switch testing and the replaced switches were the problematic ones - YMMV
Quoted from Zablon:Anyone have a surefire way to keep the flippers from sticking? I've been unable to solve this one.
It’s all tied to the EOS ... It’s a battle between ‘knockdown’ and ‘stuck-up’ for me. Still fucking with it. Getting close to selling mine.
Quoted from Zablon:Is this because it's all digital? You would think it's either 0 or 1. Do they need to adjust the polling timings in the code?
No idea.
SpookyCharlie
TheNoTrashCougar
Originally, my garage shot was maybe 1 in 10. I don’t have a problem with an unforgiving game but I do not believe that 10% make-ability was the desired goal. I actually modified the left side wooden play field wall so I could get the guide curved enough to make the garage shot to be more like 65-75%. Still difficult but not unforgiving. There has to be a balance. I moved the ball guides so much that I needed to swap out 3 standard switches for the magnetic switches.
I think a lot of people are having some confusion between what was designed to be difficult and what might be questionable assembly or manufacture. I say that not to be snarky but to emphasize what I have discovered through my adjustments. Some ball guides appear to have some twist relative to the play field (garage shot in particular) that does the player no favors. Then there’s the inner loop, specifically at the diverter, that could easily be rotated 180 degrees to avoid the ball hitting the screw heads and dying up top. I am critical, but I also believe I am fair in my assessment.
The flippers..... well, I’m still trying to figure out what the best way forward is. I trimmed all 3 bushings. Adjusted both EOS switches. Added the cooling fans. Tweaked the right side flipper switch with several different methods posted here, and will finally try soldering another leaf to the existing switch to elongate the blades of the switch so that maybe the right flipper button works as intended.
Don’t get me wrong - this pin is a dream theme for me. The art, theme, theme integration, sound, call-outs, code, modes, play field.... top fucking notch - hands down - the best. No manufacturer has ever come anywhere close to the level of assets used to put you ‘in the game’ like this one has - none. Furthermore, I will always root for the underdog and I will always support small businesses with values similar to my own. I really do love the game overall but it has been a frustrating couple of months.
So, Scott, Spooky - I propose this....
I don’t expect anything for free - I don’t believe in it. So, I will pay to ship my game back to Wisconsin for a complete overhaul and ‘dial-in’ by you guys if you will pay for the return trip when it is finished. I don’t care how long it takes, I just want it to work the way you and Scott intended it to work.
Your thoughts???
Quoted from PinMonk:Sometimes when your dream is realized, it isn't always the way you imagined it. The original Fantasy Island TV show ran very successfully for YEARS on this premise.
Pinball should not be about frustration but fun. There's plenty of buyers out there for R&M HUO for the same or more than you paid. I say let this dream go and get something you can have fun with just by turning it on and playing it. Lucky for all of us, we are spoiled for choice in pinball these days.
I considered this.
But I also really want to keep this game. So I figured I’d make an attempt to meet in the middle and see what happens before I slap the ‘for sale’ sign on it and call it quits.
Quoted from PinMonk:There's been EXTENSIVE documentation of the multitude of tweaks for this game since it started shipping last YEAR. EXTENSIVE. This isn't some surprise and he's the only one in the world that has to tweak a LOT to get it playing the way he feels comfortable.
Because he's not having fun with it and it apparently requires lots of care and tweaking for most owners to get it playing what they consider well. It sounds like he's not cool with that reality now that it's in front of him and he'd just rather play and have fun with his pin. Totally reasonable position, but apparently incongruous with R&M ownership reality.
Shipping back to spooky prepaid, having them tweak it just for him, and them paying to ship it back is not practical because stuff happens in shipping - things wiggle lose, things come out of alignment, stuff happens. It's likely not going to come back perfectly tuned and ready to play anyhow, so it seems like it'd be a big, frustrating waste of time and money for all involved to put them back at square one. We're not talking Stern-level recent concave or convex playfields that are plainly defective. We're talking a machine that just needs a lot of tweaks to make it sing. And it sounds like he's about done with trying to do that. Which I totally get.
Sometimes dreams do not work out and you have to let go. Real talk.
Ball guides shift in shipping?
Flipper knock-down or stuck-up occurs in shipping?
Scoop sinks in shipping?
Flipper switches malfunction due to shipping?
Drop targets misfire from shipping?
I’m not asking for anything for free. I’ll pay the $450 to get it there if they pay the $450 to send it back - pretty simple.
Quoted from PinMonk:My opinion only, I have no dog in this fight, but it seems like you're thinking with your heart and not your head on this one. There's 225 pages of testimony about why this machine may not be for you, covering all the issues you've mentioned above and more. I would say that points to it being time to let the dream go.
I’m going to let Spooky decide the next step.
Thank you.
Quoted from CashMoney:Why does it matter if he owns one or not?
He’s trolling in an owners thread.
Quoted from Zablon:He DOES make mods for the game, so I don't think he's trolling. He's been very active in this thread.
I guess you skipped the previous page.
Quoted from Lounge:I guess you skipped the previous page.
Quoted from CashMoney:Vireland has offered nothing but help and assistance in any thread I've ever been in. He makes excellent, quality mods that actually help and improve pinball machines. If he's trolling, then its most likely deserved. You don't have to own machines to offer advice and help.
Quoted from PinMonk:Hell is hot, and time is running out.
My post was specifically addressed to Spooky and you took it upon yourself to jump in the middle of it and get snarky. Your unsolicited counsel is not required.
Quoted from Cdonnerusmc:#477 showed up today. I have to say the butter cab was worth the extra 1k. I was skeptical but its pretty incredible looking. Out of the box the game seems to play perfectly. This was my first spooky purchase and I'm really impressed. I love the hard satisfying shots, the layout, the callous and of course the theme. Congrats to Spooky Pinball, you guys are killing it,keep it up.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Awesome
1 week later
Quoted from Calfdemon:New issue just started and I am not sure what to adjust to get rid of it. Maybe someone here has seen it and can give some advice.. My drop targets will no longer drop if there is a ball behind them. It started with the right drop target occasionally, but now it is the left drop target and the right usually drops. Basically, when multiball starts, it only released the right and the center scoop, while the left drop target stays up and flickers, but will not drop.
I have tested the drop targets in the service menu and they work fine with no ball behind them. But when I put a ball behind the left, it clicks as it attempts to drop, but will not drop. And occasionally I get 2 balls on one side and then no matter which side that is, there is too much weight to drop that target. If I wait for the ball search to kick in and if I jostle the machine during the ball search, I can usually get it to free up, but then I have found that there is only 1 ball search? After the first ball search, the game just sits and does not activate a second search.
Anyway, I vaguely recall something like this being addressed in the past? But I searched the thread for drop target and did not see anything and there is nothing in the Spooky YouTube videos addressing it either.
Thanks!
My drops went wonky a few weeks ago. Interested in this topic as I haven’t found a solution either.
Quoted from DanQverymuch:....with the magnet sensor already being the playfield thickness away from the ball at minimum.
This is not true. The magnet is only 1-2mm lower than the playfield. The switch is triggered when the magnetic field is disrupted - so the ball only needs to get close to the magnet anyway.
Quoted from DanQverymuch:Oh, ok, so it sticks up into the slot? Makes sense.
So it's probably as good as a normal switch with an appropriate blade shape.
Exactly.
Here is the principle: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diy-repair-20-10293-reed-switch#post-2455859
Here is the actual switch: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/185#post-6026608
Quoted from DanQverymuch:It's not just a reed switch, though, is it? Wouldn’t that require the ball to be magnetized?
(And if it is just a reed switch, why the hell is it $35? I don't think it is, though.)
At any rate, the switch in that video has been decommissioned anyway, but my adjusted switch there will not let a ball push it aside. Registers every time. (I'm still on old code, which works fine for me, I'm waiting for a hot flipper solution.)
No - the disruption in the opposing magnets triggers the lower magnet to pull harder connecting the reeds. The principle is in the first link.
2 weeks later
Quoted from razorsedge:Also the hinge/pivot and screw heads of the diverter were fouling the ball path before I tweaked. This was killing the smooth shot vibe.
What was your fix for this?
Quoted from WizardsCastle:I've checked all switch games, bushings, etc. Everything seems fine. Only weird thing is that the flipper seems high is respect to the ball, but thought I read somewhere that it has to do with Spooky using a thinner pf?!?!
Quoted from rotordave:If you go back a few weeks in the thread, a few have machined down the top of their bushings to lower the flipper height.
I chopped my bushings down and it helped way more than I thought it would - fwiw.
1 week later
Quoted from WizardsCastle:Got my wife to take a quick video. A few of these shots are definitely clean.
I'm only making about 5-10% of these shots, so not able to get anything going with the game. Really sucks, but outside of this, I love this game.
I've adjusted the switches, and tried everything else. Starting to wonder if the problem is deeper.
Thoughts?
Looks like the ball is hanging up or catching on the ramp flap/transition.
Quoted from toyotaboy:this is exactly what pinball life's aftermarket ramp does, but nice fix. I would only worry about the plastic deforming after thousands of ball hits.
If it were me I would do this:
* release this on thingiverse as-is (or you could post it on shapeways and make a small profit for every one sold)
* SELL a better version that adds a metal plate with a screw hole to the angled wall
It would be pretty easy to sell a pack of 3 for $15 and change them out if they get banged up.
Quoted from WizardsCastle:Had the my best game tonight, but it was all from ball one. One there first ball, I got 29M points, and also started Rick Potion 9.
Then it was drain fest and I literally ended the game after the next 3 balls with 31M!!!!
Anyhow, one weird thing I noticed, and I think it happened once before. I went to collect my second extra ball, and I swear I made the loop cleaning, but no EB!?!? Do you have to make two loops for the second EB or something??
If you adjusted the spinner ball guide (upper loop) there’s a good chance the switch is getting hopped. Solution is to change that switch to the MRS. That’s how I fixed mine.
Quoted from WizardsCastle:and every one ght was green.
My Canadian is rusty - what does this mean?
Quoted from Aniraf:Question about the diverter...when the garage/dimension light is flashing green and I hit that right orbit shot is the ball always supposed to go into the garage? I would say 70% of the time mine rattles around and falls down the center loop.
If the diverter is ‘open’ making the garage available and the shot is weak, it is possible to not make the garage. But at a 70% reject rate, it sounds to me like your ball is hitting the screw heads on the diverter and dropping short of the garage.
You’ll have to remove the house and do some testing to find out for sure. My money is on the ball hitting the screws.
2 weeks later
Quoted from snaroff:These photos are from March 24. Centering the ramp is tricky and involved moving the ramp forward a bit (because the inner loop ball guide touches the ramp). To move it forward, I shaved the ramp with a belt sander (before/after photos of the ramp modification).
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I’m actually doing the same exact thing to my machine. I’m also having a shop fab a new diverter - basically welding a guide to the shaft to get rid of the screws.
Quoted from Zablon:So, even after installing the MR's on the right orbit, I'm still getting instances of the diverter not closing. Are others seeing this?
I haven’t noticed any misses yet but I plan on doing a bunch of testing with the new diverter once i get it installed. Figured I may as well do some testing while I have the house off.
Quoted from razorsedge:Giving it a kink (in place) completely concealed the screw heads for me and worked a treat. Circled yellow.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/164#post-5984607
I tried that first. I Rotated the shaft 90* and bent the flap around but then the flap was about 8mm too short to make contact with the inner loop guide. The bolts were pushing the guide out too far also so I just decided to have it completely redone.
Pic of my realigned ramp.
0EC3C731-347E-4406-BB6E-F2A608722A10 (resized).jpeg29B63DB5-1AA1-45B2-8547-CB8C340C2490 (resized).jpegQuoted from WizardsCastle:Question to anyone who centered their left ramp.
I took out the screws, and the ramp is actually as far to the right in the playfield cutout that it will allow.
So even if I wanted to move it, there is no way. But it's clearly not as straight as some of the pics I've seen.
Any thoughts?
Also, I forgot the order I took the screws out, so I don't know if the longer screw goes in the left or right.
Anyone?
You have to reshape the ramp (sander or dremel) to make this adjustment. I used a dremel.
New diverter looks good and functions perfectly. Loops are fast and consistent.
Made a little spacer with a hard post sleeve and a nylon washer. Made another small adjustment to the right orbit. Seems to be working great.
19D9D502-4A9F-409E-A7D9-D7080D676B07 (resized).jpeg76414798-22CA-4EBB-A63F-D6C113A59D99 (resized).jpeg81746B2E-DDD3-4665-BE7C-DE6BB28EFD04 (resized).jpeg8D59343E-E29F-4F3D-A29B-233D3C7DDC76 (resized).jpegAD68E263-5E0C-4F5A-972A-38E63B26C284 (resized).jpeg 1 week later
Has anyone had the entire right side go dead on them?
No right flipper, no sling, no launch, no ball feed.....
I think I’m about done with this game.
Quoted from DNO:Fuse on the p-roc board, when mine does that occasionally.
only blown about 3 times on location, thousands of plays, one of the top earners!
Yep - fuse - thanks everyone.
Quoted from Aniraf:I know that someone (sorry I forget the name) is working on a new diverter that is welded. That would completely fix the issue.
[quoted image]
Me....
and it works great.
Quoted from bemmett:I have seen some posts in past of those rollover switch sensors used, where do you purchase those? have too many instances of my ball hitting/rejecting or getting stuck on rollover switches in some of the orbits.
Sonic sells the magnetic switches.
Quoted from Palmer:Looks great! Are you selling these? If so I will take one.
Sorry, wasn’t planning on selling them. Any metal shop should be able to crank them out though. Maybe Mantis will make some.
Bug in the new code....
Just finished MoonMen. Loaded up both locks. Death save to scoop (multi-ball lit). Then nothing but the searchlight and a few nice words from Rick. Hard reset.
Quoted from WizardsCastle:About to replace the stock right flipper switch with beefier ones, but the lugs are reversed.
Does it matter what order I solder them?
See attached, should I keep the red and grey on the same side, or should the higher lugs be used for red and grey?
VERY interested in doing this. This is the last ‘tweak’ my machine needs.
What replacement switch did you go with?
Quoted from Fytr:Yes, when I got my game the "soft" feel of the right flipper switch drove me nuts. I tried a bunch of things (disc, homemade stiffer plastic extender) but in the end it was the "zip connector" fix that really made the switch feel the same as other flipper buttons.
I tried the zip-tie but it seems more like a bandaid. Then I soldered an additional leaf to lengthen the long throw to the flipper button but it’s still weird and not staging correctly.
Quoted from WizardsCastle:Here you go:
https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-flipper-leaf-switch-double-contact.htmlRight now, I have a plastic washer glued to the clear blade, otherwise, I can't get it to flip both flippers.
I'm hoping that the replacement switch will work better.
Does anyone know what gauge of wire the flipper switches use?
The wires going to my switch have almost no slack, so I figured I'd solder some wires to it on the bench, then just Western Union splice it to the existing wires in the cabinet.
Thanks!
Thanks for the link.
My wires are pretty short too. Since the flipper button wires don’t carry much current, anything close to stock gauge should work fine.
Quoted from Beamer2007:Just installed the May 18 update and my upper flipper is not really working, and when it does go off, very weak. Any idea whats up here?
thx
You need to adjust the gaps in the flipper switch... and maybe find a fix for the plastic ‘actuator’ on the first reed.
Quoted from WizardsCastle:I got my game about 1.5 months ago, and figured Spooky made updates to the ball guides, but it's nearly impossible to hit that garage orbit shot.
Has anyone had any luck improving that? If so, what worked? Changes to the upper flipper? Ball guide?
Thanks!
Ball guide.
I actually scooped out my wooden playfield rail with a belt sander so I could curve the ball guide better. Then recolored the wood with a black sharpie.
9E58B84E-332B-49CD-B766-AA57C984326A (resized).jpegDEFB1A38-84C4-418C-97C3-114647DB002E (resized).jpegQuoted from riggy469:I’m pretty sure that it wasn’t meeseeks mode and it’s probably a loose opto connector on the horseshoe, as I believe the ball got added when the one target not holding a ball was hit.
Do a code update. I had the same problem - (seemingly) random ball added which wreaked havoc on the ball management code. I haven’t noticed any of those problems in the new code.
Quoted from GravitaR:Got a ball stuck on top of the U-Turn target. Let game cycle through multiple ball searches for 5minutes without the ball or target underneath moving. Had to lift game up to free it. I would think the software would at least cycle the targets, but no luck.
[quoted image]
Looks like your target is sticking up a bit too high.
1 week later
Quoted from SuperPinball:Is the diverter supposed to be very loud?
Screws are probably hitting the cabinet.
Quoted from goingincirclez:My issue with the ball bouncing off the upper flipper orbit rail was due to the shooter wireform being just hair low, thus occasionally deflecting the ball - easy to fix once I realized this. The only issue I seem to have now is the left orbit sometimes just dies behind the house somewhere. Wonder where the ball went, then it comes dribbling back out. Which adjustment is supposed to take care of this?
Remove the house and it’s easy to see what’s going on but my bet is that the ball is hitting the diverter behind the house.
Quoted from Zablon:Also...completely unnecessary. The only thing you need to do is loosen the rail and a few screws at the end of the lane to adjust it down closer to the flipper. One of the tabs will sit under the railing. Do not overthink it and risk making it worse.
I’m with Flynn on this one.
I damn near had to rebuild my playfield to get mine to play well. To include removing and modifying both side rails, recurving ball guides (and new screw holes in the PF), cutting flipper bushings, shimming the scoop, mag switches across the top end, modifying the right flipper switch, replacing the shooter lane habitrail, making a custom diverter…. anyway. It’s finally playing well.
Quoted from Fytr:This list and constructive criticism matches my experience as well, I'm #380.
Hmm…. Then there’s two #380’s because I have a #380 also.
Quoted from Lounge:Hmm…. Then there’s two #380’s because I have a #380 also.
86257A01-A1D1-41CA-A612-77111C91F0EF (resized).jpegQuoted from WizardsCastle:Anyone have the issue of the shot not registering when you hit the inner orbit? It used to register every shot, and now about 50% of them go right around the loop without registering.
It especially hurts when you have an Extra Ball lit, and you finally make that shot and get nothing!
Anyone have this issue and find a fix?
MRS #Sonic
Quoted from CashMoney:My machine wont boot now for some reason... I updated to the new 5.18.21 code and it says it updated successfully. After I power cycle the game, its now saying an update is required. I'm using the right USB stick format and I pulled the code directly from Spooky's website. I even re-downloaded the code and tried updating again and it yielded the same results.
Any ideas?
[quoted image][quoted image]
Put the stick back in and do it one more time.
Quoted from Idengager:I also have #380, does that make 3 of them?
The other was a mistake
Quoted from Fytr:…my memory sucks. My number is actually # 309. Sorry for the confusion.
But interesting that you have a #380 too. Wonder how many other duplicates are floating around.
Quoted from Idengager:Just got the game two weeks ago after a delay so I could move. Haven’t put the number on it yet.
[quoted image]
That’s crazy. Anyone else have a duplicate??
Quoted from Zablon:strange...mine had the number 'on' it...
Mine too …. the ‘other’ #380.
1618B2A1-9F81-4C8E-B7F5-2F35A673C931 (resized).jpegQuoted from cartman5579:Only looking for new, I have terrible OCD…
This is one game that you might want to buy gently “used.” Meaning, someone else did all the tweaking and dialing in.
Quoted from cooked71:Wonder if that’s intentional or a limitation of the system.
Mag circuit is tied to the flipper coil and will blow the fuse if both coils are fired is what I remember of the conversation. Limited via software iirc.
Quoted from Llabnip1972:I over tightened the flipper bolt and grooved the post. Can anyone tell me which flipper fits rick and morty. Pinball life doesnt describe any of the flipper/bat assemblies as fitting spooky or rick and morty specifically. Thanks
Iirc - they are B/W flipper assemblies.
Quoted from WizardsCastle:Anyone else finding that you have like one good ball a game, then it's super fast drains?
I will have like a 20M ball, then it's 2- balls that barely put up any points.
Never reset a game anywhere as much as I find myself doing with this thing.[quoted image]
Damn!
Quoted from djsoup:I got my flipper bushings from Spooky (they just sent them to me btw), and swapped them this weekend. All 3 of my flippers are all wonky now. They dont return back to normal, they sometimes go straight up or down, or stop in different directions during gameplay. I have no idea what I did wrong putting them back together. I've emailed Spooky but I'm hoping someone here might know and this is an easy fix.
[quoted image]
You need a 1-2mm gap between the bat and the bushing. Slide a credit card under there before tightening or use the fancy plastic spacer tool.
Quoted from Propsnsports:I wanted to thank you guys in the owners thread. You have been a great help.
I am having 1 more issue. The ball gets hung up in the right orbit, at the switch and rolls back down. It also doesn’t register when you hit the shot in an adventure.
Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
Dana
Magnetic Reed Switch from Sonic fixed that issue for me.
Quoted from goingincirclez:Does anyone have a rule summary for Moonmen? This is one of two modes I've yet to complete for some reason and even then I'm not entirely sure what the objective is. I know you're supposed to get all the colored crystal shots, presumably in 30 seconds... what happens after that?
Take off the glass.
Quoted from JohnDeere:Does anyone have a link to a guide on how to rebuild flippers to put in these new bushings? Also im guessing when rebuilding them the best alignmennt is using a straight edge to have them directly in line with the ball guides not the holes?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers
Quoted from rotordave:If they were too high, the ball would hang up on them.
On my machine the ball has got stuck on the left inlane switch several times. Been meaning to fiddle with it but will probably just go magnetic (like I did the upper playfield) and never think about it again.
Quoted from razorsedge:I also used a block of sticky back high density foam, stuck it to the ceiling of the "garage cellar". This stopped the portal "skipovers" (right orbit then comes out of left garage lane), and also stopped Garage shot rejects, where the ball would bounce off the back and come back down the left garage lane.
I did the same thing.
A fast shot to the right orbit would bounce out of the garage. Foam on the opposite edge of the garage eliminates that problem.
Quoted from ThunderLips:Ok, speaking of flippers, I could use some advice.
I replaced all 3 bushings with the new shorter one''s I just got from Spooky and now I cannot make the left ramp. The lower right flipper only has enough power to make it 2/3 of the way up. I've checked it twice and fiddled with it and don't see anything obviously wrong. I can still backhand the right ramp and it seems zippy enough for every shot other than the left ramp.
I'm no pro at dicking with flippers, but the other two flippers seem to be working fine and I can make all shots with no problem.
I've tried messing with the flipper power settings from 25 up to 40 and I'm not seeing any difference.
Game is still level and I'm at 6.9 degrees. It was always a tough shot, but never had any problems with the left ramp on the old bushings.
This is seriously the best game I've ever owned, just need it working 100% again.
Any advice?
Adjust the gap between the flipper bat and the bushing.
Quoted from Zablon:This has also boggled my mind. The lead programmer was testing on a non prod game which we already know...
Are the people who made this game so good at pinball that it doesn't matter how bad the shots are working, they seem fine to them? No rattling? etc? No one noticed the flipper difference?
Or is what they are testing on just that drastically different from what was being made on the line?
All sorts of questions like this. It's not a knock on Spooky specifically, I really don't have enough personal experience with NiB from other companies. I could see where it somehow got missed regarding the difference in height, or maybe someone said it won't matter....but you would think after making the first one, and testing it...someone would have said something feels off rather than just chalk everything up to 'oh it's a hard game'.It would be interesting to just have this discussion, without anyone getting offended as a lessons learned thing. At least to me.
This is what really (initially) chapped me about the game and the responses I got from the thread here. I’ve been around pinball long enough to know when a game shoots well and when it doesn’t. I also know good design vs poor design (looking at you diverter and ball launch wire form).
And when I got my game it was a clunk-fest of rattlers and rejects. After further inspection it became difficult to distinguish between manufacturing defects (twisted ball guides, ungracious ball guide radii, poorly aligned ramp, switches being missed, etc.) and intentionally ‘difficult’ shots. I questioned this early on and was flamed pretty good for it.
So I tore my PF apart and just began posting my modifications. I can now say the game shoots amazingly well and is what I was expecting out of the box.
I appreciate Spooky for being receptive to the constructive criticism and making changes to their manufacturing techniques. Mistakes should be painful, and I think they learned a lot of good lessons with R&M. I’m really looking forward to seeing how Halloween and ??? turned out with the new processes in place.
Quoted from WizardsCastle:What the fix for this?
Quoted from Aniraf:Someone else on here made a welded diverted that looked excellent, but it was a one off and not for sale.
That would be mine.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/269#post-6272701
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/269#post-6275136
Quoted from Shapeshifter:Just watched Bowen tutorial again as it's so good.
Just wondering did the slut dragons ever make it into the game?
No - not yet anyway. Fingers crossed.
Quoted from monkfe:Is there a location for the complete game rules?...I found the early one in the key post index, but its not complete...Thanks..
Quoted from monkfe:got it ty sir....
edit...but it is missing the moonmen rules....
You’re welcome.
Quoted from Soulstoner:Getting weird lighting issues since the last update. The timers at both ends stop displaying correctly, sometimes every light turns plain while while flipping, then reverts back when a switch is hit, and now my pop colour is a sea foam green rather than plain white (all the time even during attract mode).
Anyone else encounter this?
[quoted image]
Did you reseat the cable connectors?
Quoted from snaroff:I believe this is it. My target started flaking out after 600 plays back in May.
Bending the target mech up (i.e. toward the front of the PF) fixed my left target. Attached is a before/after photo. Since the targets take a beating, it makes sense that the metal bracket might bend over time and need adjustment.
btw...there is a diagnostic to help identify if the targets are working correctly (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/275#post-6294425).
[quoted image][quoted image]
Quoted from Iwasthebruce:Hey y'all! I was wondering if this is happening to anyone else running the public release code from May...very often, I get the "death save" animation on drain...but on switch test nothing is stuck high (also I have no fails when switches are pressed), thoughts?
Thanks!
Give it a couple hard shakes during the switch test.
Quoted from venom112:How difficult is it to I talk these switches? What tools are needed?
Soldering iron, a small drill-bit on a dremel (I like to pre-drill the plastic flange), and a nut-driver/screwdriver. Oh, and a lighter for the heat shrink tubing. Takes about 10 min a switch.
Quoted from guitarded:I would start by adjusting the cabinet flipper switchstack and setting the EOS to close closer to the end of the stroke.
My right side cabinet flipper switch had shifted a bit during shipping. Got it aligned, tightened and adjusted and haven't had much for issues since.
No EOS on the upper flipper but yes, the leaf-switch stack on the right side can be wonky. Replacing mine with a different one soon.
Quoted from WizardsCastle:How do you beat "Look Who's Purging Now".
I think it's the only one I haven't beat yet.
Thanks!
Look Who’s Purging Now: On the purge planet, purges happen… well, a lot - and Rick unknowingly traps his grandson there on an adventure. Buy time for Rick to build the communicator and save both of their lives by fending off the planet’s fierce locals, represented by purple arrows moving from left to right across the playfield towards Morty. Locals are killed by hitting the shot they are currently on. You can also kill the right most local by lobbing a defraculation grenade if you have one, this is done by shooting the inner loop. The longer the mode lasts, the closer together the locals spawn, and the farther to the right they are when you kill them their value increases. Morty is located at the right garage entrance, and if a local reaches him, you’ll only have a few seconds to make the shot and save him before the mode ends. Holding off the locals for a long enough time (killing 5 locals) will light the Summer target on the left target bank; hit it with a precise shot to summon the armored suits, and then stay alive for 20 seconds. Shoot the scoop afterwards for hot purging action and successful completion of the mode. Good luck!
Quoted from guitarded:Having Horseshoe Opto Issues, here.
My R - side Optos are not working. Every Game starts with it thinking a ball is locked and the Orange Light on.
Traced wiring back to Opto-Boards to make sure connections are secured and they are. Optos are clean and secure on the PF, no shifting or loose screws.
Anyone got an idea of what else I can check?
Wipe them off with a Q-tip - make sure there’s nothing on them.
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:Assuming the bottom rubber from the flipper should sit barely above the alignment hole?
Yep.
The right flipper will need to be slightly higher if you want to backhand the right ramp.
Quoted from epthegeek:Because people who hold the fippers up a lot for no good reason would get knockdown and complain on some forum.
You might be surprised at how many people here are on your side. But to say there wasn’t a problem with the flippers on this game is disingenuous.
I’ve owned many machines and played hundreds more. R&M, hands down, had the worst flipper problems I have ever come across. Thank you for working with the hardware manufacturer in finding a solution. Moving on…..
Edit - I’m also a software engineer …. I get it.
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:How many megaseeds did shove up your butt?
Always last the last 2 digits of the score.
1 week later
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:I had issues with the flipper button parts previously. I will post what Spooky sends. Supposedly a new design. Will be better than my lego and electrical tape repair.
[quoted image]
I bought one of these…
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/SW-1010A-13
… to replace the questionable stock one. Should be my last tweak. Very interested in Spooky’s replacement part.
Quoted from sheahan2:Just joined the club! My first NIB!!!
[quoted image]
Quoted from ripple:What's the story of where it came from. I was wondering if there would be any outside the 750 numbered edition # TEAM !
+1
Quoted from monitorpop:My left rail seems to only be adjustable further out over the playfield graphic. This is image shows it pushed back as far back as it goes. Am I missing something? Any ideas? I’m not a great player but this shot is currently brutal for me on this machine compared to the other R&M machines I have played.[quoted image]
Quoted from Zablon:1. You will most likely need to drill a new pilot hole
2. The amount you can move it is limited if you don't undo the rail to about the middle.
3. This will vary by machine, but I believe to get the best curve, you need to remove the left wood rail, and one tab will be slightly under it (also probably need a new pilot)
4. By the time you are done, the end of the rail will fall short of the actual post (again something that will vary).
This is just my take on it, others may have a different opinion.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/278#post-6301779
Quoted from harryhoudini:Here are the details for the IPS LCD upgrade.
This is the screen and controller I purchased. You can use a similar 15.6" IPS LCD screen as long as it has a 30 pin connector and does not have the border along the bottom that most do. The plug must be within the borders of the screen and not sit below it or it will not fit. The similar part number is NV156FHM-N4H. They are available from AliExpress but the end cost isn't much less and shipping time made (as well as return policy) Amazon a no brainer for me. As far as the controller board, again a similar board will work as long as it supports HDMI input, 15.6" 1920x1080 IPS with a 30 pin connector and 12v power. I ordered several different options from Amazon and this was one of the few which met all those needs.
15.6" IPS LCD Screen Replacement: https://amzn.to/3itT4dS
HDMI LCD Controller Board: https://amzn.to/3jCR2rv
I created the mounting brackets and PCB support for the screen and controller linked above if you want to make it a plug and play install. It makes it a pretty easy swap. The original mounting frame can't be used to mount the new panel and controller. I'll make an install video which uses these brackets but will show you how to do the swap even if you're making your own or just taping the screen in place
https://pinballmods.co/rick-and-morty-pinball-mods/rick-morty-lcd-upgrade-ips-bracket
I tried to give a comparison shot. It's really worth the upgrade IMHO. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Can you publish the maker files for 3D printing the brackets, please?
Quoted from northerndude:He sells them. May not be ideal for him to give away his work.
I’ll gladly pay for design work. Didn’t realize he made a living this way. Not looking for handouts.
I’d even buy it as a complete kit if it was offered ~ harryhoudini
Quoted from metallik:The 'kit' is available:
- Buy the screen and controller from Amazon that he linked to in his post
- Buy the mounting kit he also linked to on his site (it's 28 bucks)
That should be everything you need.
Done and done.
Was not aware the brackets were on his site.
Quoted from macethetemplar:I fully 100% support DLC it and I don't understand why anyone wouldn't. I would spend $1000 a year for more content.
So you own a $10K machine for 10 years that you have $20K into. An asset that gets more expensive the longer you own it. Makes owning a boat sound cheap.
Quoted from WizardsCastle:Had the weirdest thing happen... Got an airball off the flipper that hit something over on the left side of the pf, then rocketed back and ended going through the gap at the side of the apron, then rolling down and into the coinbox.
After looking at it, there is a huge gap between the apron and wall of the cabinet. All other games (Stern, B/W, etc) have that space closed up, so not sure what Spooky was thinking here.
Quoted from Var1AbL3:I had this happen twice, once when I first got the game and another time more recently. The second time when it hit the apron it shorted out my BlackLight strip and immediately my machine started smoking ... literally. I turned it off (obviously) removed the light strip and the game worked fine. But, after I got a replacement light strip I also ordered a basic post with a wood screw base from Pinball Life (like the ones on the PF) and installed it on the rail right in front of the gap. This seems to have fixed the issue.
Same - put a post there - solved.
Quoted from Sonic:This customer, not only put MRS' in the problematic upper quadrant of the playfield - but also at the in/out-lanes and the shooter lane! Looks good - probably plays ridiculously fast.
Matt
M&M Creations
[quoted image][quoted image]
Doing my inlanes this week 
good stuff Matt.
Quoted from orlandu81:You won't be sorry, my machine is the one in Matt's post but note I swapped two of the uppers for the two inlane switches since that photo was posted. You will want the inlane switches to face down towards the player to avoid interference with the antigravity magnet on the right side.
Uugh - I literally just added the switches magnets up and ran a switch test. Did NOT test the magna-save. Lesson learned.
I’ll be switching them tomorrow.
Quoted from Sonic:Sorry about that Tom - orlandu81 was the first to discover this - so going forward we'll be sure to let folks know that on inlanes - you won't notice it by doing the magna save test either - it's only when the ball is actually held on the magna-save - it sort of acts like an antenna.....to the inlane MRS....just roll it and it'll be fine..
Matt
No worries, Matt. I’ve had this game apart so much I can pretty much do it in my sleep.
Finished up my final 'fix' for R&M. Using fake quotes as it's more of an optional fix.
Originally I had a problem staging the right flippers. I modified the original switch by soldering an additional leaf to the leaf that contacts the flipper button to make it longer and have better contact. It was okay but still wasn't quite long enough - it only reached half way up the button plunger and I figured the edge of the leaf would eventually wear and cause problems.
So I bought a BW dual flipper switch with a really long leaf and a Stern double flipper switch because Scott mentioned that the BW switch has too much resistance and would not work out well.
Pic 1 - The Stern and BW switches side by side.
Pic 2 - The dissection in progress.
Pic 3 - The reassembled/modified Stern switch.
Pic 4 - I used a screw to extend the flipper button plunger to get better contact with the extended leaf and make easy adjustments for sensitivity.
Got it all soldered up and reassembled and a few tweaks later was staging with ease.
IMG_6357 (resized).jpegIMG_6359 (resized).jpegIMG_6360 (resized).jpegIMG_6367 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from orlandu81:You won't be sorry, my machine is the one in Matt's post but note I swapped two of the uppers for the two inlane switches since that photo was posted. You will want the inlane switches to face down towards the player to avoid interference with the antigravity magnet on the right side.
I'm super happy with the switches...even the lower ones which I understand are mostly cosmetic.
I have noticed that the inlane MRS gets triggered when the magna-save is pressed. I'll leave the MRS switch in and play for a few weeks but I may end up going back to the old switch on that inlane.
Quoted from WizardsCastle:I'm confused why you modified the switch.
Scott said to just get a Stern double blade switch like this:
https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-flipper-leaf-switch-double-contact.html
The length of the blade on the Stern switch is too short to connect to the button plunger.
Quoted from orlandu81:If the magnet on the switch is facing down towards the player, you shouldn't have any MRS triggering when using the magna save.
I trimmed the mount and flipped the switch (magnet down) and it still triggers.
It doesn’t really change the game much. I just get more slam saves now 
Quoted from orlandu81:Really? That's a bummer and a surprise. Could your magnet output from the magna-save be casting a wider net than mine? Not a big deal either way like you said, but this does peak my curiosity on the matter.
I think I can turn it down in the settings. Have to check.
Quoted from WizardsCastle:Really???
Shitty! Scott told me that was the part I needed, even said he was installing them in his own personal game.
I bought a set, but didn't get around to installing.
I wanted to use the existing screw holes. I’m sure it would work fine if you don’t mind moving the switch up.
Quoted from avanwinkle:When I got the MRS switches I loved them so much, I put one in my homebrew machine where I was having issues with the ball hopping a rollover switch. The MRS was too close to a pop bumper and I was getting all kinds of false hits on the MRS (which triggered a release on the locked balls, oh no!).
My solution was to use magnetic shielding! I put some around the bottom of the bumper, and covered the underside of the MRS. Probably overkill to do both, but it works perfectly and no false positives!
amazon.com link »
amazon.com link »
Fantastic - thanks for that. I’ll give it a try.
Quoted from Sonic:In Lounge application - he merely needs to have the magnet sit on the other side of the slot by rotating the MRS 180deg, or swap with a rollover in the upper section of the playfield that has the magnet 'in' towards the mounting tab. There are several varieties of rollovers for this reason - tab left, tab right or mag in or mag out (as well as sensitivity AND circuitry differences for the different switch matrices pins employ)....for the R&M anti-gravity lane - we'll make sure a mag-in rollover is applied - something we didn't know prior to orlandu81 experience.
I trimmed the mounting tab and flipped the switch to mag on the bottom. Emailed you a video of the actuation. It’s really not a big deal. I’ll try the tape solution or if you want me to test a new design I’d be willing to be the guinea pig. Either way - no sweat.
1 week later
Quoted from KenPin:I’m wanting to play a Rick and Morty pin before I buy one. I’ve looked on the Pinside location map and the closest arcade with one is Kansas City which is over 3 hours away (I’m in Southeast Kansas—an hour west of Joplin, Mo and an hour North of Tulsa, OK). Does anyone know of a closer location that has one?
Have you tried searching pinsiders near you with one in their collection?
1 week later
Quoted from wayinla:There is something that sometimes prevents the ball from getting to the garage.
Take the house off and watch a few loop shots.
I’m going to bet that the ball hits the bolts on your diverter. There are a few fixes listed here.
1 month later
1 week later
Quoted from orlandu81:Thanks for the note. I ended up following the wires from the dead solenoids to the one or two connections on the affected board and when I pulled the fuse to test it, it failed. Of course I'm out of this fuse, so I'll get it this weekend and try again. Hopefully it is an isolated incident and won't continue to blow repeatedly.
It was noted somewhere that under certain circumstances the fuse blows on that board. I have not nailed down all the conditions but it has to do with the magnet and the flipper coils drawing too much current when used in combination.
There was a software fix implemented for this problem. Something about disabling the magnet when the flipper was pressed???
Quoted from wackenhut:When you make the right orbit shot and it comes down the spinner lane instead of the garage, where is it supposed to end up hitting on the game?
All bets are off if you short stroke the right orbit. On the other hand, make sure the ball isn’t bouncing off the bolts of the diverter hidden behind the house.
Quoted from orlandu81:I just saw the "Death Save" cut scene for the first time today! I didn't death save though, I am not that skilled. Cool to know that the cut scene exists.
No issue honestly, just through a random glitch based on the angle of my shot, I believe the optos in the horseshoe thought my shot made it into the ball lock when it didn't, or it bounced out when the drop targets came up. Either way, the machine thought the ball was locked and launched another ball into play, then upon losing one in the outlane I noticed the graphic come across the screen. Pretty neat that I'm still seeing stuff that is new and I've had thousands of games played on the machine.
Most likely a switch that trips when the game is nudged. Open switch test and shake your machine.
Quoted from Hench4Life:Can any help me with the locations of the short flipper mech mounting screws for the lower flipper brackets? I put in some x spacers a while ago, and am putting in the bushing now, but I unfortunately can’t remember where the short screws go. I had a picture for the upper flipper, but don’t have one for the lowers
Shorter screws go in the holes towards the center of the playfield.
1 week later
Quoted from MightyGrave:Hey guys so I made today a bunch of games and noticed following behavoir with my R&M:
1. Ball save during multiball
In the 3 Ball Multiball I lost one ball after a few seconds. During the ballsave period of 10 seconds it came back. All fine... But while the new ball was in shooterlane a second ball was lost during the Multiball in the ball save period (2 seconds before it was over)... These ball wasn't not served again. I only had a two ball Multiball, but the balls were lost during the ballsave timer period... Is this normal ?
2. Ball launch
During the gameplay the ball launch is not consist. In the Multiball (see point one) it needs 2-3 trys to get the second ball up to the launch rail... No idea how I can fix it.
3. Scoop STDM
Sometime my scoop fires the ball not on the right flipper or the tip of the right flipper - the ball goes STDM.
Is there a known fix for?
1. There is a game/software limit to the number of saves with this game. Can’t remember where this was stated but it was Scott D or Bowen that went over it. Basically, even though the ball save may last 12-15 seconds there are a limited number of balls the game will return - can’t remember the specifics.
2. New launch habitrail from Pinball Life (I think) fixed that for me.
3. Loosen the scoop and give it a little force towards the left flipper and tighten it back up. If that doesn’t work, put washers between the playfield and the mech but only on the left side so that the entire mech is slightly canted.
Good luck - it’s a difficult game to get dialed in.
Quoted from Deadlander:Lost my anti gravity magnet. Switches work shaker motor reacts when pressed but no magnet. Checked magnet in self test and nothing. What next to check?
Thanks,
Al
If it’s just the magnet (and not the right flipper, etc.) it isn’t the fuse. Check for broken wires or bad solder joints first.
1 week later
Quoted from Morgoth00:Working on my upper flipper alignment since I am swapping shooter ramp. Even with rubber post ring removed, I can't get it perfect. Middle screw can no longer be installed and middle tab is hitting black rail. End tab screw is maxed out and will need to be re-drilled to go farther. Will going that last little bit be worth drilling new holes or will I notice a difference?
Factory before:
[quoted image]
As close as I can go:
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
I sanded the corner off the black rail down to a 45* and slid the tab under the rail and drilled new holes for the ball guide.
The amount of ‘tweaking’ I had to do on this game was beyond what anyone should have to do.
4 weeks later
Quoted from Aniraf:Hell, can we just uncompile the code and add our own non-licensed stuff?
It’s kind of like unscrambling an egg…. doesn’t exactly work like that. PinBrowser will allow you to swap assets but I don’t know if it works on Spooky machines.
Quoted from Aniraf:Oh, it works like that. If something can be engineered, it can be reverse engineered. The trick is time and money. With only 750 owners, the reward isn’t great enough for someone to spend time hacking it.
Once compiled and then uncompiled, it does not literally translate back into the line of code you typed to create the processing command. Yes, you can see what’s happening at the processor level but you don’t get the structure that was used to create the ML. You won’t ‘see’ my code. Hence my comment, “it doesn’t exactly work like that.”
You can unscramble the egg but you don’t get the egg you started with is my point.
Quoted from Aniraf:Yes, but imagine instead of scrambling an egg, I just locked it in a car. I think that is a better analogy for how I see this going in the future.
If there was only one programming language I would agree.
Quoted from RedbirdGT:Ooooooweeeee! #TEAM reporting in.
I've been lurking on the forum for the last day to troubleshoot some minor issues and see what everyone has done to make improvements.
First observations since delivery a couple days ago:
1. This is awesome. I can't believe I won this thing! A huge thanks to the Adult Swim team for the opportunity and the win.
2. The box arrived safe and sound, but while orienting the machine upright, there were a few nice clunks from something loose in the cabinet. The tilt bob ( in baggie) and two pinballs were all loose in the machine after further inspection. Fortunately, I don't believe they caused any damage. A total of 7 pinballs came with the machine (not including the captive one). +1 for spare parts?
3. My legs all have good angle bends and the machine came with felt spacers so thankfully no concern for damage to the decal artwork.
4. Holy rattle trap Batman! Initially pretty much unplayable with the rattling from the glass, power supplies, and misc cabinet items. I went on a hunt to track down the sources and remounted both power supplies on rubber isolation tape. That helped a lot. I'm considering a few options for the speaker itself to improve performance (including building a proper subwoofer enclosure), but everything else is great for now as long as the glass is out. The glass fit is already pretty tight, but there's one area along the left rail that still causes some nice rattling. After finding this community and the troubleshooting pages yesterday, I was really surprised to find this is such a common issue. I don't mind an initial project or two considering my cost basis is taxes, but I could imagine being a bit disappointed if I had paid full price.
5. That power supply fan is loud! Definitely going to replace it. The head spinner motor was set to off within the first 24 hrs too.
6. The garage shot from the upper flipper feels a little off. The upper flipper arrived offset from the right wall and in line with the guide rail, so nothing obvious to adjust there.
7. I think adding active cooling on the flippers is a good call in the near future.
8. I noticed I don't have the backlit speakers or the portal grilles on this machine. Was that typically standard on the blood sucker edition?
Overall, absolutely thrilled with the machine and looking forward to making some tweaks and improvements![quoted image]
Congrats and hopefully you’re not shy with a drill and a hammer. Getting this one dialed in is an exercise in patience.
Quoted from 27dnast:Mine required a ton of tweaking to get it to flow. Really glad I took the time to do it, tho. The difference is night and day. As the game was when I got it, I would have dumped it if not for being able to tweak!
Same - I still own it and enjoy it.
Quoted from delt31:hey guys - two questions.
1) Magnet doesn't appear to be working right now. I checked the zconnector (blue wires) and they seem fine and plugged in. Switch on the flipper is being recognized as well yet when I do a test, the ball doesn't seem to be moving by the
magnet at all. Any thoughts on what this could be?
The ‘battery’ insert has to be charged for the magnet to work. Rather - the magnet will only work when the battery indicates that it is charged.
Quoted from pinballM:does anyone know the price for a 5 set decals and new playfield ? I am interested
New playfield?? Seems to me R&M has one of the most durable playfields out there - mine shows like new.
1 week later
Quoted from henning:Yepp, Xianeks work is great! Got an awesome Demolition Man translite from him.
He’d probably get a lot more business if he put a little more effort into his website 
1 week later
Quoted from KingHebes:Couple questions:
1. Is anyone else experiencing a crazy amount of wires breaking off of coils? I've had it happen to both flippers and a sling so far, maybe the pop bumper. I've resoldered so many wires now I forget which ones. Different wires Everytime though. Not sure if it's just bad solder work/bad quality solder from the factory or if the wire isn't able to handle the heat or what. Maybe this is a fault of not using an eos switch in the design? Or maybe it's just my game so curious if others are experiencing this.
2. I heard a rumour that they stopped working on code for rick and Morty? I hope this is false and just a rumour as we don't have a wizard mode yet, and the design was made to leave room for future seasons to introduce new modes which is a unique awesome idea to add many years of longevity to this game if it were to happen. Hoping someone official from spooky can chime in on this answer.
All in all it is a fun hilarious game with a unique flow that unfortunately some people haven't taken the time to find and recognize. I think the bounciness of spooky games, possibly due to the rubbers used, throw people off because they do not feel like other manufacturers games. Spooky pinball has a feel all their own and it's not bad. I've always thought gotlieb machines had a feel all their own as well. Stern and Williams feel very similar to me. Anyway, I'm rambling, so fuck yeah pinball!
Iirc - Rick and Morty - the show - was sold and the new ownership is being difficult to work with regarding more content for the game. Aside from bug fixes I believe the code mode wise, is where it will remain.
1 week later
Quoted from mrbillishere:Re code expansion... Consider how much time Eric and Co wasted fucking around with flipper pulse shit. They even got (Gerry) the maker of PROC involved at times. And in the end, a change to the physical geometry of the flipper mech provided more material improvements than any of that other shit and if I'm not mistaken Eric ultimately went back to his earlier flipper-pulse logic anyway after spending months upon months trying to appease us Pinsiders.
The flipper issues were very real - even after the bushings were trimmed and the EOS adjusted. It’s 90% of the user interaction and pretty important to get right. It wasn’t right and it did get fixed. I wouldn’t characterize that time as ‘wasted.’
Code expansion…. not going to happen via Eric or anyone else.
Quoted from RickAHG:Well I'm at the end of my rope with my R&M, unboxed it for the kids at Christmas and it has been a pain in the ass from day one. The machine ends the ball during play and gives extra ball during play, optic board, connector, switch I haven't found it yet. Zero help from Spooky, new machine that is POS out of the box. Anyone find the magic fix for this?
Go to switch test and smack the game around. See if the trough’s switch or the shooter lane switches (or both) fire. Outside of that it’s a bit of a crapshoot. My R&M was super frustrating but I finally got it sorted and like it a lot now. Good luck.
Quoted from May:After 8 months, I finally open the box.[quoted image]
This should be interesting.
F17B5755-03A2-4B54-BC11-3E6D56A348A7.gif 1 week later
Quoted from henning:Can we please go to boob world instead?
We’re not going to Boob World, Morty - you fucked it up.
1 month later
Quoted from bjsilverballs:One old Bally flipper switch to the rescue!
[quoted image]
IIRC…. Somewhere in this thread, Scott D mentioned being careful about the Bally switches for the flippers because of the increased resistance of the Bally switch. Just be aware, if your right flipper starts acting up again.
I ended up building a leaf stack from the Bally switch using the longer leaves.
1 month later
Quoted from delt31:I would love to try these out and it’s not a money thing but I just don’t want to drill into a basically new pinball machine. Just seems crazy to me.
Well, then I won’t go into what it took to get my game to play well other than letting you know I drilled at least 3 new holes on the top of the playfield. And on my game, the MRSs were the only answer to getting the game scoring as it should.
Gongrats on having a better experience with the game than I did.
Quoted from Calfdemon:Thanks... I am going to do the same just to avoid any future problems, speed up the game, and to give those guys some additional business for such an awesome product.
Can’t say enough good things about those switches. Literally saved my R&M since I had to move the ball guides so much.
1 week later
Quoted from arzoo:Unfortunately I believe the team who coded R&M are no longer under contract with Spooky. That's not to say someone else couldn't pick up and continue work on the code, but that's considerably more difficult.
Quoted from 27dnast:Bro. It’s done. It’s over. They’ve moved on
3 weeks later
Quoted from PlanetExpress:Finished my MRS install today… Such a great upgrade to RaM, as I no longer miss any orbit switches and the whole machine is just smoother. They are expensive compared to a standard switch, but reasonable when compared to all the mods people add to RaM that add nothing to the gameplay. (No shade… I have about 90% of the available mods in my RaM, too!)
Awesome service from Sonic, buy with confidence![quoted image][quoted image]
Those right hand lanes are going to be problematic with that magna-save …. ask me how I know 
Quoted from PlanetExpress:Mine was, but Matt reworked the sensitivity for me and it’s good now.
Nice - I’ll have to ask him about that.
Quoted from Sonic:Yep...resolved...it was hit or miss on some R&Ms...since it's a captive lane we simply de-sensed the inlane from 6mm to 4 and that was the solution going forward...
Matt
Put me down for one of those “de-sensitized” switches, please.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Shapeshifter:Possible bug/adjustment?
After Swifty adventure finishes and it says something like 'there's one every season'....
Volume of the speech is quite a bit lower than rest of game.
Thanks if this can be tweaked - minor I know.
I’m thinking we’re stuck with the code as is.
Quoted from epthegeek:The current to-do list:
Feature:
fr0-0p - Froopyland rainbow GI something - maybe unlimited ball save because you can't die in froopyland
nc-17 - Swearing dimension all switches throw swear words
KL4-ck - Knocker dimension
Points:
st4-mpz - Multiply scoring by green stamps
t3h-dub - 2x megaseeds for each collected
f0n-du1 - Jackpot dimension - all switches increase jackpot value
cRk-d4t - Crank awards seeds for the duration
Negative:
b4-llz - Ball search dimension
bl4-nkz - Barren - only lights 1 seed
Any or none of that may happen and I'm not going to commit to any knd of timeline.
Oh, hell yes!!
1 week later
Quoted from epthegeek:There’s a feature setting for “Skillshot Emphasis via Lighting” - turn that off, then all the normal playfield lights should be on before the plunge.
I've been looking for this for 3 years
Quoted from richierich85:Has anyone had this issue with the flippers that when you have either or even both flippers up on hold and a ball rolls down fast towards them it like does a quick shutter or flick movement and sends the ball flying back up the playfield?? not a weak flipper in hold that flops but kinda the opposite like there sensitive in hold position?? only started happening from last update last year... flipper hold strength is medium.... Any thoughts?? thanks
Adjust your EoS - the ball is disengaging the EoS as it presses against the flipper and since you have the flipper button pressed, it is trying to re-engage the coil which makes the flipper twitch.
I dickered with this for weeks during “flipper-gate.”
Quoted from epthegeek:People helping test the new thing: EDIT - Nevermind, there’s a mean crash bug in 8.14
To everybody else:
Q: What the heck is going on?
A: I’m adding a “Single Adventure Challenge” mode
Q: WTF is that?
A: In attract mode, you can hold the right flipper and anti-gravity buttons to trigger a selector to pick an adventure and a dimension and then you get one ball to do your best. Supports multiplayer. Tracks the best score per combo of adventure/dimension. Has some new pages in the attract mode with high scores.
Q: OMG WHEN?!
A: Hopefully before the end of this week - It’s essentially ready, as long as no new issues turn up.
Oh hell yes. This is awesome.
2 weeks later
Quoted from DanQverymuch:I had to tweak my right orbit switch again, so I'm posting a better pic showing how I bent it. Note how the blade is always depressed almost to where it clicks, the slightest further press will activate it. I am considering the acquisition of one MRS, however, for the next time it decides to stick closed...
[quoted image]
It’s $30 to save a $9K machine …. worth every penny.
Quoted from jonesjb:You’re not misremembering. I believe was indeed part of the pitch when the game was being released and discussed after being sold, for example here: https://www.thisweekinpinball.com/this-week-in-pinball-january-13th-2019/
The way it was written ‘we’ll be able to’ sounds like they had permission to. They specifically point out that they don’t want it to be like South Park, where it’s only including the season(s) available when the pin was released.
[quoted image]
While I can’t speak on behalf of Spooky (and I don’t know if Spooky has officially addressed these set expectations), it sounds like this is no longer the case. I don’t know if the terms were actually changed or if they were optimistically overstated from the beginning, but I don’t think Spooky had any ill intentions or tried to mislead anyone.
For some reason this seems to be a sensitive topic in this thread, and people try to silence others for inquiring about this issue or still hoping (it’s not like a topic or question has never been raised multiple times on Pinside before).
Were any timebound terms of the license ever discussed? I wonder if Spooky still has license rights (for example to rerelease Rick and Morty as is, or create a new pin). Has this information been made publicly available (as of 2022)?
Yes, it really would have been nice to have had at least one Adventure from Season 4 or later. I mean didn’t ‘Vat of Acid’ win an Emmy? Who in this thread wouldn’t have hoped this made it into the pin? That’s right - no one.
What was also mentioned was something to the effect of R&M - the show or the network - being bought by another company thus voiding any previous informal agreement to access future content. An entirely new license would need to be purchased and as was mentioned a few posts ago … who would buy a license for a game that has already been paid for? No one.
Aside from what Eric decides to add in code or unlicensed dimensions (thank you Eric), the current content is all the content this game will have. This is it.
Are we all caught up??
Quoted from WizardsCastle:You wouldn't need to purchase a new license if the contract was still active. WB would receive all active accounts and take over.
However, if there was no money left to be made, or the contract was nearing its end, they may not be motivated.
Most contracts of this sort, in my experience, run two years.
Spooky would be wise to make nice with WB since they sort of have a foot in the door, as their list of IPs is basically a geeks wet dream.
I just don’t see them spending more money on this game.
RM2…. not yet but maybe.
Quoted from dnapac:Any pinball company “redoing”…or doing “#2” of another pinball company’s pin…takes a big risk IMO. If they don’t nail it, they will forever and always be known as the company that screwed up that pin. Even with Sterns big head, I doubt they’d risk it. Too many other titles to make great pins.
Certainly another company could buy a new license for R&M2 but everyone knows #2 has to be a Spooky with Scott D on design and Eric (and hopefully Bowen too) on rules. Anything less would just be a bad sequel.
Quoted from TigerLaw:Stern doing R&M2 would be a major let down and a step backwards in many ways. I personally don’t want to see R&M2 not have full RGB lighting, a $9 speaker system, and PG rated call outs.
As others have said, when the sequel game is eventually made (my guess is we see it in 2025), it needs the same core development team to be a true sequel game, at least Scott and Eric to be sure.
My point exactly.
1 week later
Quoted from Deez:Anyone know which flipper switch to order for the right flipper? Mine busted and I'm not sure what the part # is. I forgot to measure the thing when I was there. Appreciate any help.
[quoted image]
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/319#post-6466306
Quoted from jonesjb:It's possible that Spooky is still planning additional Adventures, and is just waiting until they are all in the game before preparing the manual (this way they don't have to keep updating the manual every time a new adventure comes out).
Speaking of beating dead horses:
1) there will be no more adventures.
2) the rules or changing rules have nothing to do with a manual
3) read the thread
Quoted from HEAD_boss_HOG:he apologized for saying "My Man"? I don't get it. lots of people say it. Why can't he?
JD is very ‘woke’ - I’m sure it has something to do with the assumed improper use of the pronoun ‘man’ or ‘cultural appropriation’ or some other dumb shit that someone chose to be offended by.
Welcome to 2022.
Quoted from Reznnate:Was expecting a hateful tirade and thankfully it wasn't. Cheers. That said, was a wall of text necessary? Why does the anti-woke have to be equally fragile? I long for the day when people grow tired of watching whining/complaining 'foxnews entertainment' and getting emotional about non-sensical crap that doesn't actually impact the mass majority of our lives.
Irony
2 weeks later
Quoted from HEAD_boss_HOG:I'm shocked that Robin didn't censor your response here. You've accomplished the impossible: Question the motives and ideologies of the "mainstream" industry powers. well done. I have alot to learn obviously; although I'm not entirely aware of why my post was deleted in the first place. It was a general complaint, not some propaganda piece.
I get lucky every now and then.
2A7E3BF7-612B-41FD-84B3-E854B50376F9 (resized).jpegQuoted from jonesjb:And remember, you’re allowed to discuss Rick and Morty pinball here, as long as you don’t bring up wanting more adventures added to the game from seasons 4 and beyond.
Wait a second….. is this…….
Dry humor????
I think I get.
My left ramp drops fairly unpredictably in the right orbit and sometimes hits hard enough to return through the U-turn entrance. It is literally the only thing I didn’t adjust on the PF.
I guess I’ll be bending that flap soon.
Quoted from jonesjb:But how, given the right ramp to orbit return is a key shot, it'd be good to have it reliably less clunky.
For sure - it wasn’t bad enough to bring me to mess with it after all the screwing around with the diverter, ball guides, etc. Now that everything else is dialed in it’s probably worth revisiting.
Quoted from Zablon:Here's a few shots through the left ramp.
In the pic you can see it looks like it is tilted to one side, but the bottom is flat across pretty level where it comes out.
I definitely need to mod mine.
Quoted from Kenz:Remake next year?
Quoted from jonesjb:I thought they Spooky lost the license, no?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/359#post-7046752
Quoted from TigerLaw:Zero. Spooky has been crystal clear, no remakes on R&M ever. Only the 750, they have confirmed this dozens of times.
Our only hope is a true sequel game made by the exact same team with a new layout, new art package, rules, etc. Make it happen Spooky!
^^^
Quoted from jonesjb:I wonder if they'd still be able to add more adventures from the first 3 seasons?
T
They would still have to renew the license.
Quoted from Filimurz:Being the third owner of R&M #706 I should not have been surprised by the fractured ball guard rail (the break point on the rail is shown by the blue arrow in the attached image). I believe this was caused by the diverter slapping against the guard enough times to finally force it into a jammed open/closed state (circled in red). I was not even aware of the stuck diverter until running some coil tests and was not hearing any movement when activating the diverter coil. Upon lifting the PF and seeing the flipper rod tucked fully up inside the coil I figured my next move was to remove both ramps and the house. Here’s where I saw what is shown in the image - a stuck diverter arm wedged against a bent/fractured guard rail.
Freed up the stuck diverter, bent the guard rail back to its intended position and dialed the coil setting to as low as allowed (10).
Even at the lowest setting the weakened rail is still moved a bit at each diverter activation.
Have requested a replacement for the compromised ball rail from Spooky and hope to be able to post a “before and after” upon receipt and installation of the needed part.
Kudos to those in this thread who provided their experiences with
Appreciate the help from AJ at Spooky[quoted image]
I did extensive work on my diverter and cant imagine that the force of the diverter’s impact would cause that kind of damage. It’s a really weak diverter. I think the short crappy wood screws would pull out of the PF before that guide would crack.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/269#post-6275136
My guess would be that someone tried to recurve the guide and creased it. Bent it up so it worked enough to make the sale and never looked back.
Quoted from Morgoth00:Someone just posted the same thing 3 months ago
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/357#post-6989643
Also a local one had the same issue. He epoxied it until the new one could be obtained.
I can only tell you about my experience and understanding of the diverter.
But again, I can’t imagine the diverter having enough force to bend the fixed (screwed down) ball guide. If anything, I would expect the diverter itself to bend before the playfield affixed ball guide bending. I could be wrong.
Quoted from sthippie:My diverter was reaching similar levels of beating after no adjustments (but lots of games). Was getting loops rejected because of it.
Quoted from Lounge:I can only tell you about my experience and understanding of the diverter.
But again, I can’t imagine the diverter having enough force to bend the fixed (screwed down) ball guide. If anything, I would expect the diverter itself to bend before the playfield affixed ball guide bending. I could be wrong.
I’m not doubting you - just surprised. My knowledge of physics and mechanics is obviously not on par.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Var1AbL3:I have seen these and they are tempting, but I have a few questions. First, did you just order the "three flipper kit with shafts" that their store page recommends? They also have an option with new bushings, do you think that is required? I do have the "x-spacers" installed in my game, not the replacement bushings from Spooky.
In your, or anyone here, opinion, do you think I'd need to remove the spacers and put in the new bushings? Or, will I be able to install the new shafts and flippers without having to take out the spacers and replace bushings. Either way, it wouldn't hurt for me to pull the game apart and give it a good cleaning, but I'd rather have the right set on hand when I do it, I don't think I could go more than one day without playing R&M.
Thanks, John
Get the bushings with the flipper kit and ditch the spacers. The full kit works together so nicely - you won’t regret it.
Quoted from Alaskanzen:Can you detail the difference you've seen? I have dialed in game and feel more could be done to smooth out the shots.
I currently have these on my JP and have a full set waiting for GZ And RnM installation. The feel of these is quite impressive and the power transfer via removal of slop in the linkage is a game changer. Full RnM review on the link below (not mine) as are several other machine reviews in the thread. I can follow up next week after my install but after adding them to my JP I have decided to replace all flippers in my ‘keeper ‘ machines with these.
1 week later
Quoted from jonesjb:Has anyone put the Precision Flipper System on Rick and Morty? I'm thinking of buying some, but wondering if I should go with ghost or standard for this specific pin? My inclination is to go with standard, but Rick and Morty is kinda sci-fi so the ghost ones might look better.
What did you go with (and colors)?
I’m throwing a set on next week. I have them on a few games and I really like the feel.
2B168A3F-F66B-40B1-99D2-A438F7B28ABE (resized).jpeg 1 month later
Quoted from snaroff:Question: Did the EOS switches need to be adjusted to accommodate the Stern style link arm?
I haven’t installed my keyed link arms on my R&M yet but it makes sense that after any flipper rebuild you would want to adjust the eos for good measure. Takes about a minute.
3 weeks later
Quoted from jk2171:I was looking at silver as well just to save the $20. Thought about blue for a second, and wish I could see the pics of purple. But purple is out of stock so think I'm going to go with silver as well. Did you get the clamps too?
If any machine needs the keyed shafts it’s R&M. I have a set I haven’t installed yet but when I replaced the bushings to the Spooky (shorter) bushings, the clamps were garbage and I had to monkey with the clamp gaps to get them to bite again. The Spooky clamps are total crap.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:The metal diverter on the main orbit (fuck knows why) has protruding screws on it. So every time you hit the orbit at above reasonable pace, the ball clips the screws and rattles around, slowing the ball, fucking timing, adding extra clunkiness and generally fucking things up!!
I followed a fellow Morty members thread today regarding the tweaking of the diverter. Took a few hours, was a pain in the ass, but it seems to have worked.
Quoted from monkfe:I wish someone would re-make those divertors ...maybe I'll reach out to Mantis and see if its something he's interested in...
Quoted from damadczar:I too hate this clunkiness of my diverter. Not sure why I haven't thought of it before, but I might try to take it out this weekend and re-install the diverter to the shaft using press rivets. That should take care of the issue. Be much more in line with how other diverters are done. Not sure why they didn't do this in the first place tbh. It's fine for prototyping, but there's a reason other diverters are either riveted or welded.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/269#post-6272701
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/269#post-6275136
Quoted from Maverick222:Genuinely wondering your take on this as you consider him a friend.
Are those weird and creepy texts he supposedly sent to that 15 year old girl legitimate? If they’re actually him he’s a downright creepy bstrd and I wouldn’t want to know him and or be around him in any circumstance. If they’re in fact fake I truly feel bad for him. It’s so easy for these sorts of things to be fake just as they are real.
You can find everything you’re looking for here —-> https://www.facebook.com
Quoted from northerndude:I guess I have to figure something else out?
Battery not “on board”
It’s heat shrunk inside with leads
[quoted image]
I would bet that it’s not soldered and simply uses the heat shrink to maintain contact between the wires and battery. The ball of exposed wire and heat shrink are a giveaway.
New battery and new heat shrink will get you back in business.
1 week later
Quoted from InteractivePinball:Hi everyone, I originally designed this mod for myself and wasn't planning to release it. I designed it because the metal guide to the garage wasn't consistent enough so I set out to create a fix. I also didn't like the way the meeseeks multiball ended with a shot to the Jerry target and thought a ramp shot would be so much more satisfying and boy was I right. I have made so many versions of this ramp tweaking the geometry for a smooth satisfying shot. The area was very tight to have everything fit and I was able to make the mod fully reversible with a simple install. The ramp shot triggers the jerry target just as in regular gameplay. Because of all the interest, I've decided to produce this ramp if I get enough confirmed requests. I still need to finalize the metal ramp entrance and switch bracket. I would produce up to 30 ramp kits, including all hardware and electrical if I have enough confirmed interested people. The kits would be about $160usd. I will start making a list so send me a message and I will add your name to the list.
F@*k those Jerrys.
Put me down for one, please.
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Melbourne, FL
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