(Topic ID: 257850)

Official Rick and Morty Club - You are not like other carbon based life forms.

By TheNoTrashCougar

2 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

84 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #256 Rules posted by Eric as of Feb 2020 Posted by epthegeek (1 year ago)

Post #510 R&M Options Posted by Morinack (1 year ago)

Post #589 Useful post for coin door comparison. Posted by NeilMcRae (1 year ago)

Post #637 More code rules - Adventures full lost Posted by epthegeek (1 year ago)

Post #745 Club thread reminder. Posted by TigerLaw (1 year ago)

Post #748 Cards for the game rules and what not. Posted by Coindropper (1 year ago)

Post #751 Darker outline for instruction cards. Posted by Coindropper (1 year ago)

Post #976 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Wireform ball launch and coil adjustment Posted by timmmmyboy (1 year ago)

Post #1006 TECH:Pitch recommendation from Scott. Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (1 year ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#218 1 year ago

#386 ... I’ll be here a while.

#475 1 year ago
Quoted from kidchrisso:

Can Spooky add these hinges to their list of add ons spookycharlie so they can be factory installed during the process?[quoted image]

I’d be in on that as a factory option.

1 week later
#1128 1 year ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

Why do these post look like they were burned. [quoted image][quoted image]

The silicone post sleeves on my HUO JP2 look the same at ~1000 plays.

1 month later
#2183 1 year ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

7/16" OD rubber is working well so far. Mine has shifted a little bit to the side but it works.[quoted image][quoted image]

I did the same thing with an AFMr. Worked nicely to slow down the ball and prevent rattling.

1 week later
#2295 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Making these changes I will say Drastically improved our confidence in Cleanly making those shots as designed and fully enjoying the experience.

I’m sad to see that ball guide so misaligned with the upper flipper. That should be a factory fix. I tweak my games all the time - no stranger to making adjustments but to have to drill holes in an $8k NIB just doesn’t seem right.

I hope these become factory fixes before #386 comes off the line.

#2374 1 year ago
Quoted from kklank:

Be more specific please. What adjustments are the “severe ones”?

Um... drilling holes in a brand new playfield??

1 month later
#3258 1 year ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

Is the death save Animation triggered by outlane switch followed by any other switch in play?
Curious of the logic you used to trigger it.

Yes, that’s what Bowen said on his stream.

#3298 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

Just confirming this is the Shaker to buy for this game? Or are they beginning to install the Shaker at factory?
https://www.pinballlife.com/spooky-pinball-shaker-motor-kit-for-p-roc-system-machines.html

Factory option - the code for the shaker just got implemented.

#3367 1 year ago
Quoted from Troz:

1 minute of slow-mo scoop action, post-adding washers and bending scoop hood.

Sexy

4 weeks later
#4225 1 year ago
Quoted from scorche:

#120 has finally come home!
Timeline of events that might help with the "how long until..." questions:
2019-12-16: Ordered (obviously)
2019-12-19: Build number revealed
2020-06-04: Add On List sent and ordered final configuration
2020-06-18: Invoiced and paid
2020-06-24: Date of Birth as marked on the box
2020-06-29: Ready to ship confirmation and tracking information given (using RL Carriers to AZ)
2020-07-07: Arrived with residential delivery

Not accounting for covid.

4 weeks later
#4879 1 year ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

Damn good point - I will add that in.

Gotta’ love the one liners (of code that is).

1 week later
#5021 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Well let's do the math.
We are 8 months into production. 151 is about_ to ship.
(750-151) / (151 /= 31.73 months remaining in production at the current rate.
Now, there are some problems with this. We don't know how many Euro/Aussie games went out. COVID took the factory down for a while, etc.

Fucks sake, not again.

#5063 1 year ago

Keep your garbage in your own can.

1 week later
#5349 1 year ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

• Kruzman playfield.

What did the Kruzman option cost, if you don’t mind me asking?

I’m #386 - have a little time on my hands.

2 weeks later
#5739 1 year ago
Quoted from Ozzy:

Rick and morty arriving Monday. Anyone have any interest. Ordered this before I lost work.

And leave it in the box. Sorry about your situation.

2 weeks later
#6013 1 year ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

I've fixed it a few times by pushing it in, but am now looking for something that stays fixed.

Dab of hot glue??

1 week later
#6256 1 year ago
Quoted from ArcadeBar:

... Haven’t worked up the courage to do that to my wife yet tho

She’s the best

{{{{ kidding!!! couldn’t resist }}}

16
#6397 1 year ago

epthegeek -

I know you’re busting your ass on this. Seems like you’re solo and a build like this is a tall order for a software guy on his own (I used to be a software guy).

On top of it all, to throw yourself in a public forum where every ‘good idea fairy’ has the next great thing you should include in the next build .... you’re a saint.

Keep on crushing it - beers on me if we ever meet.

1 week later
#6829 1 year ago
Quoted from Ty-Arnold:

I am glad you are all enjoying your pins. Does anyone have any idea when spooky is going to release a new title?

Late 2021-ish’ ...???

They seem to be about 1/3 of the way through manufacturing R&M.

3 weeks later
#7547 1 year ago

For those who wish to keep track - #386 options sheet received today.

1 week later
#7902 1 year ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Is Rick and Morty (the show) extreme enough to have pedo dimension with Michael Jackson, Prince Andrew, Roman Polanski, R Kelly, etc alt-versions all roaming around proclaiming their innocence?

wow.....

1 week later
#8245 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I've had that upper right switch issue going for a while and I've been trying to adjust it but I think the space back there is enough that it will always be possible for the ball to slide by the switch. I sat there recording it for a while the other night trying to figure out the exact replication for it and all I can tell is that it is simply the switch wire being pushed to the side. The video goes on for a bit but you can hear the switch test noises and notice when the switch doesn't trigger.

Tighten the ball guide angle - bend it slightly more towards the switch. I think it might fix your problem. Or build up the end with mylar so it forces ball towards the switch if you don’t want or can’t bend the ball guide. I don’t have my game yet but shouldn’t be a difficult tweak.
77246B99-5D93-49E9-AF84-9C961BC30D82 (resized).jpeg

#8382 1 year ago

Invoice for BSE #386 paid in full

2 weeks later
#9073 1 year ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

So if the bushing didn't change, what did change to push the pushing higher relative to the top of the playfield? Is the playfield wood about 1/8" thinner? There's not a whole lot of options. Either the bushing got longer, or if that didn't the flipper plate got flatter or the playfield got thinner. I'm assuming that making a special bushing is easier than fixing the other issue to just keep using the standard WMS bushings...

The consensus is/was that the playfield is thinner than the old playfields.

#9074 1 year ago

And - for those keeping track - #386 will be delivered Friday.

Merry Christmas to me

#9299 1 year ago

#380 arrived yesterday.

Was expecting #386 as that was my place in line. All the options look correct - maybe just a placard mix-up??? Anyhow - if you’re the owner of #380..... enjoy #386.

Adjusted flipper angles and two orbit rails and now just the right flippers and she should be good. Going to try the flipper reed switch fix tomorrow. Having the weird right upper flipper actuation and lower right flipper ‘knock-down’ issue.

1 week later
#9555 1 year ago
Quoted from DanQverymuch:

Anybody else had the thrill of CLUNK lost ball in the cabinet yet?
The ball fits through there rather easily. Didn't take long to figure out what happened!
[quoted image]

Yup.

1 week later
#9758 1 year ago
Quoted from bjsilverballs:

Can I throw a 5A fast blow in there or is that a terrible idea?

3 amps compared to 5 amps is a pretty significant difference. What was the original fuse rated at?

#9760 1 year ago
Quoted from bjsilverballs:

Original fuses are 4A slow-blow.

I don’t think I would risk it but that’s just me. Even a 1 amp difference could be problematic for these controller boards.

#9843 1 year ago
Quoted from guitarded:

Been waiting to ask if someone had thrown this in and if it fits in both position of that loop. If I am in for one, I think I am in for 2...

I installed 3 last week. The two like you mentioned and the third one in the inner (spinner) loop. I adjusted the ball guide on the to the point where the inner loop switch became questionable.

They’re really fantastic switches. Highly recommended.

#9844 1 year ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

That’s not a freeze. It’s a logic/timing issue when you end an adventure exactly when the ball drains and it doesn’t proceed to the bonus right away that I haven’t figured out mostly because i haven’t been able to recreate it. This is the first report of it happening on purge...

Happened to me on Get Schwifty.

Multi-ball + Get Schwifty + end of mode, all balls drained at the same time. ‘Perfect storm’ kind of thing.

#9884 1 year ago
Quoted from metallik:

You really should unbox and setup the game. It's going to need tweaks before being location-ready. If you don't lower the flippers (file the bushings or shim the plates), it plays kinda meh, hard to slapsave and the rubber wears fast. Might need switch and other adjustments. Lower the scoop, etc. Consider all the time playing and tweaking (and playing and testing and more playing) as a necessary business expense. Write it off on taxes. Convinced yet?

This is good advice.

My game required nearly every tweak - granted, I’m pretty anal about how my games shoot and flow.

#10055 12 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I did the bushing shave (heyo) and if you haven't I suggest you do before you keep playing. I have one done and the other undone and it's night and day. I was complaining how there was no way I could casually hit shots consistently in this game without trapping the ball. I'm no twitch streamer but I can do ok on a good day and it's easy to tell the difference. My wife also agreed. Flipper now sits nicely just above the playfield and the ball hits the center of the rubber. The flipper is no longer weak at the tip and doesn't get pushed down as much. There isn't as much play in the flipper when the ball strikes it. I'm thinking this is why Spooky was setting the flippers to that weird location from the factory and Scott said to use the dots. Don't know why there isn't consensus there but this seems plausible. I can hit the backhand shots on the flipper I changed even with it aligned at the dots (well, if a toothpick were in the hole kind of alignment) whereas I had to have the flippers canted upward like from the factory to hit those shots. Right flipper to right ramp, no problem.
I replaced the pawl with a single nut type without the hex cap screw, personal preference. I also stuck on some of those captive metal nut things to attach the apron to the hangers. I don't understand the screw and nut setup there, no way I'm undoing that more than once before I figure out a different solution. I think these were laying around from a set of car speakers, finally I kept something that was useful.
Oh yeah, put the trough and backboard lighting in. With RGBW strips it can be ridiculously bright if you want.
Here is my very unhelpful instructional video:
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I get a lot of knock-down currently. I’m going to do this change this week - interested to see how it affects my flippers. Been a little frustrated with it lately.

#10116 12 months ago
Quoted from TireFryer426:

The second is with the horseshoe. Mine seems to have a little wobble on the left side that will result in a SDTM if I hit the right side hard.
Intended or no?

There is a setting for a ball save time on horseshoe - I set mine to 2 seconds.

#10287 11 months ago
Quoted from mariobeans:

Also I shaved my bushings down and the game is so much better.

Did my two lower flippers yesterday and was pleasantly surprised how much of a difference it made. I’ll be trimming the top flipper bushing today.

I can’t imagine this being someone’s first NIB. My machine has required nearly every tweak on the list.

3 weeks later
#10910 11 months ago
Quoted from mariobeans:

I also tried the no fear spacer, hated it and ended up buying a williams switch that would reach the button. That didn't work since the williams switches are meant for high voltage so I was getting issues from that. I then took the long leaf out of the williams switch and added it to spookys. Feels perfect now!
I could have just bought the leaf if I knew the williams switch wouldn't work.[quoted image]

Both leaves are copper - very easy to solder them together. That’s the route I’m going to take.

My switch is all messed up after the zip tie fix. Top flipper flips first which means no staging (yes, I know, it just needs adjusting).

This looks like the correct fix. Thanks for sharing.

#11014 11 months ago
Quoted from SPAMP:

Got replacement drop target switch in mail from Spooky support.... After about a dozen games the new switch failed too. Wonder if it's the switches or something else causing it. :/

What were the symptoms of your bad drop target switch?

My Morty drop target is getting wonky - cycles like it’s trying to pop up then gives up.

#11017 11 months ago
Quoted from SPAMP:

Yes that's the issue. Does it prevent you from locking a ball?
How about the switch test?

It does prevent me from locking a ball. I’ll have to run the test when I get back to my machine. I’m away for work for a few weeks.

#11056 10 months ago

[ deleted ]

#11203 10 months ago
Quoted from RobT:

I previously didn't think I needed these. After playing last night and paying closer attention....I need these.
Where do you order them?

They’re awesome switches - you won’t regret it.

I ended up replacing these 3 (see pic). I adjusted the outside ball guide on left orbit so much that the switch was nearly worthless. And of course the two on the right that most people swap.

759EA050-640D-4F71-A0A4-5A5F07A8CE08 (resized).jpeg
#11206 10 months ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

Does the one at the top of the lane next to the right ramp need to be replaced too? The one immediately to the left of the 2 on the right. I thought the first ones people were doing were the ones in that turn-around lane.

I moved my ball guides a LOT to get the flow right. The inside of the U-turn is narrow enough that it doesn’t need it. The exit from the U-turn is typically problematic. I did quite a bit of switch testing and the replaced switches were the problematic ones - YMMV

#11211 10 months ago
Quoted from Zablon:

Anyone have a surefire way to keep the flippers from sticking? I've been unable to solve this one.

It’s all tied to the EOS ... It’s a battle between ‘knockdown’ and ‘stuck-up’ for me. Still fucking with it. Getting close to selling mine.

#11217 10 months ago
Quoted from Zablon:

Is this because it's all digital? You would think it's either 0 or 1. Do they need to adjust the polling timings in the code?

No idea.

#11240 10 months ago

SpookyCharlie TheNoTrashCougar

Originally, my garage shot was maybe 1 in 10. I don’t have a problem with an unforgiving game but I do not believe that 10% make-ability was the desired goal. I actually modified the left side wooden play field wall so I could get the guide curved enough to make the garage shot to be more like 65-75%. Still difficult but not unforgiving. There has to be a balance. I moved the ball guides so much that I needed to swap out 3 standard switches for the magnetic switches.

I think a lot of people are having some confusion between what was designed to be difficult and what might be questionable assembly or manufacture. I say that not to be snarky but to emphasize what I have discovered through my adjustments. Some ball guides appear to have some twist relative to the play field (garage shot in particular) that does the player no favors. Then there’s the inner loop, specifically at the diverter, that could easily be rotated 180 degrees to avoid the ball hitting the screw heads and dying up top. I am critical, but I also believe I am fair in my assessment.

The flippers..... well, I’m still trying to figure out what the best way forward is. I trimmed all 3 bushings. Adjusted both EOS switches. Added the cooling fans. Tweaked the right side flipper switch with several different methods posted here, and will finally try soldering another leaf to the existing switch to elongate the blades of the switch so that maybe the right flipper button works as intended.

Don’t get me wrong - this pin is a dream theme for me. The art, theme, theme integration, sound, call-outs, code, modes, play field.... top fucking notch - hands down - the best. No manufacturer has ever come anywhere close to the level of assets used to put you ‘in the game’ like this one has - none. Furthermore, I will always root for the underdog and I will always support small businesses with values similar to my own. I really do love the game overall but it has been a frustrating couple of months.

So, Scott, Spooky - I propose this....

I don’t expect anything for free - I don’t believe in it. So, I will pay to ship my game back to Wisconsin for a complete overhaul and ‘dial-in’ by you guys if you will pay for the return trip when it is finished. I don’t care how long it takes, I just want it to work the way you and Scott intended it to work.

Your thoughts???

#11242 10 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Sometimes when your dream is realized, it isn't always the way you imagined it. The original Fantasy Island TV show ran very successfully for YEARS on this premise.
Pinball should not be about frustration but fun. There's plenty of buyers out there for R&M HUO for the same or more than you paid. I say let this dream go and get something you can have fun with just by turning it on and playing it. Lucky for all of us, we are spoiled for choice in pinball these days.

I considered this.

But I also really want to keep this game. So I figured I’d make an attempt to meet in the middle and see what happens before I slap the ‘for sale’ sign on it and call it quits.

#11246 10 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

There's been EXTENSIVE documentation of the multitude of tweaks for this game since it started shipping last YEAR. EXTENSIVE. This isn't some surprise and he's the only one in the world that has to tweak a LOT to get it playing the way he feels comfortable.

Because he's not having fun with it and it apparently requires lots of care and tweaking for most owners to get it playing what they consider well. It sounds like he's not cool with that reality now that it's in front of him and he'd just rather play and have fun with his pin. Totally reasonable position, but apparently incongruous with R&M ownership reality.
Shipping back to spooky prepaid, having them tweak it just for him, and them paying to ship it back is not practical because stuff happens in shipping - things wiggle lose, things come out of alignment, stuff happens. It's likely not going to come back perfectly tuned and ready to play anyhow, so it seems like it'd be a big, frustrating waste of time and money for all involved to put them back at square one. We're not talking Stern-level recent concave or convex playfields that are plainly defective. We're talking a machine that just needs a lot of tweaks to make it sing. And it sounds like he's about done with trying to do that. Which I totally get.
Sometimes dreams do not work out and you have to let go. Real talk.

Ball guides shift in shipping?

Flipper knock-down or stuck-up occurs in shipping?

Scoop sinks in shipping?

Flipper switches malfunction due to shipping?

Drop targets misfire from shipping?

I’m not asking for anything for free. I’ll pay the $450 to get it there if they pay the $450 to send it back - pretty simple.

#11248 10 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

My opinion only, I have no dog in this fight, but it seems like you're thinking with your heart and not your head on this one. There's 225 pages of testimony about why this machine may not be for you, covering all the issues you've mentioned above and more. I would say that points to it being time to let the dream go.

I’m going to let Spooky decide the next step.

Thank you.

#11270 10 months ago

PinMonk - Do you own a Rick & Morty?

-5
#11283 10 months ago
Quoted from CashMoney:

Why does it matter if he owns one or not?

He’s trolling in an owners thread.

#11286 10 months ago
Quoted from Zablon:

He DOES make mods for the game, so I don't think he's trolling. He's been very active in this thread.

I guess you skipped the previous page.

#11290 10 months ago
Quoted from Lounge:

I guess you skipped the previous page.

Quoted from CashMoney:

Vireland has offered nothing but help and assistance in any thread I've ever been in. He makes excellent, quality mods that actually help and improve pinball machines. If he's trolling, then its most likely deserved. You don't have to own machines to offer advice and help.

#11312 10 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Hell is hot, and time is running out.

My post was specifically addressed to Spooky and you took it upon yourself to jump in the middle of it and get snarky. Your unsolicited counsel is not required.

#11358 10 months ago
Quoted from Cdonnerusmc:

#477 showed up today. I have to say the butter cab was worth the extra 1k. I was skeptical but its pretty incredible looking. Out of the box the game seems to play perfectly. This was my first spooky purchase and I'm really impressed. I love the hard satisfying shots, the layout, the callous and of course the theme. Congrats to Spooky Pinball, you guys are killing it,keep it up.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Awesome

1 week later
#11625 10 months ago
Quoted from Calfdemon:

New issue just started and I am not sure what to adjust to get rid of it. Maybe someone here has seen it and can give some advice.. My drop targets will no longer drop if there is a ball behind them. It started with the right drop target occasionally, but now it is the left drop target and the right usually drops. Basically, when multiball starts, it only released the right and the center scoop, while the left drop target stays up and flickers, but will not drop.
I have tested the drop targets in the service menu and they work fine with no ball behind them. But when I put a ball behind the left, it clicks as it attempts to drop, but will not drop. And occasionally I get 2 balls on one side and then no matter which side that is, there is too much weight to drop that target. If I wait for the ball search to kick in and if I jostle the machine during the ball search, I can usually get it to free up, but then I have found that there is only 1 ball search? After the first ball search, the game just sits and does not activate a second search.
Anyway, I vaguely recall something like this being addressed in the past? But I searched the thread for drop target and did not see anything and there is nothing in the Spooky YouTube videos addressing it either.
Thanks!

My drops went wonky a few weeks ago. Interested in this topic as I haven’t found a solution either.

#11891 10 months ago
Quoted from DanQverymuch:

....with the magnet sensor already being the playfield thickness away from the ball at minimum.

This is not true. The magnet is only 1-2mm lower than the playfield. The switch is triggered when the magnetic field is disrupted - so the ball only needs to get close to the magnet anyway.

#11893 10 months ago
Quoted from DanQverymuch:

Oh, ok, so it sticks up into the slot? Makes sense.
So it's probably as good as a normal switch with an appropriate blade shape.

Exactly.

Here is the principle: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diy-repair-20-10293-reed-switch#post-2455859

Here is the actual switch: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/185#post-6026608

#11896 10 months ago
Quoted from DanQverymuch:

It's not just a reed switch, though, is it? Wouldn’t that require the ball to be magnetized?
(And if it is just a reed switch, why the hell is it $35? I don't think it is, though.)
At any rate, the switch in that video has been decommissioned anyway, but my adjusted switch there will not let a ball push it aside. Registers every time. (I'm still on old code, which works fine for me, I'm waiting for a hot flipper solution.)

No - the disruption in the opposing magnets triggers the lower magnet to pull harder connecting the reeds. The principle is in the first link.

2 weeks later
#12218 9 months ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

Also the hinge/pivot and screw heads of the diverter were fouling the ball path before I tweaked. This was killing the smooth shot vibe.

What was your fix for this?

#12225 9 months ago
Quoted from Palmer:

Which ones did you use?

The ONLY ones. Reach out to Sonic .

#12239 9 months ago

^^ this ^^

Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Here's a video of it. Is this normal?

Not normal.

#12268 9 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

I've checked all switch games, bushings, etc. Everything seems fine. Only weird thing is that the flipper seems high is respect to the ball, but thought I read somewhere that it has to do with Spooky using a thinner pf?!?!

Quoted from rotordave:

If you go back a few weeks in the thread, a few have machined down the top of their bushings to lower the flipper height.

I chopped my bushings down and it helped way more than I thought it would - fwiw.

1 week later
#12282 9 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Got my wife to take a quick video. A few of these shots are definitely clean.
I'm only making about 5-10% of these shots, so not able to get anything going with the game. Really sucks, but outside of this, I love this game.
I've adjusted the switches, and tried everything else. Starting to wonder if the problem is deeper.
Thoughts?

Looks like the ball is hanging up or catching on the ramp flap/transition.

#12359 9 months ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

this is exactly what pinball life's aftermarket ramp does, but nice fix. I would only worry about the plastic deforming after thousands of ball hits.
If it were me I would do this:
* release this on thingiverse as-is (or you could post it on shapeways and make a small profit for every one sold)
* SELL a better version that adds a metal plate with a screw hole to the angled wall

It would be pretty easy to sell a pack of 3 for $15 and change them out if they get banged up.

#12371 9 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Had the my best game tonight, but it was all from ball one. One there first ball, I got 29M points, and also started Rick Potion 9.
Then it was drain fest and I literally ended the game after the next 3 balls with 31M!!!!
Anyhow, one weird thing I noticed, and I think it happened once before. I went to collect my second extra ball, and I swear I made the loop cleaning, but no EB!?!? Do you have to make two loops for the second EB or something??

If you adjusted the spinner ball guide (upper loop) there’s a good chance the switch is getting hopped. Solution is to change that switch to the MRS. That’s how I fixed mine.

#12446 9 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

and every one ght was green.

My Canadian is rusty - what does this mean?

#12451 9 months ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Question about the diverter...when the garage/dimension light is flashing green and I hit that right orbit shot is the ball always supposed to go into the garage? I would say 70% of the time mine rattles around and falls down the center loop.

If the diverter is ‘open’ making the garage available and the shot is weak, it is possible to not make the garage. But at a 70% reject rate, it sounds to me like your ball is hitting the screw heads on the diverter and dropping short of the garage.

You’ll have to remove the house and do some testing to find out for sure. My money is on the ball hitting the screws.

2 weeks later
#13104 8 months ago
Quoted from snaroff:

These photos are from March 24. Centering the ramp is tricky and involved moving the ramp forward a bit (because the inner loop ball guide touches the ramp). To move it forward, I shaved the ramp with a belt sander (before/after photos of the ramp modification).
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I’m actually doing the same exact thing to my machine. I’m also having a shop fab a new diverter - basically welding a guide to the shaft to get rid of the screws.

#13106 8 months ago
Quoted from Zablon:

So, even after installing the MR's on the right orbit, I'm still getting instances of the diverter not closing. Are others seeing this?

I haven’t noticed any misses yet but I plan on doing a bunch of testing with the new diverter once i get it installed. Figured I may as well do some testing while I have the house off.

#13135 8 months ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

Giving it a kink (in place) completely concealed the screw heads for me and worked a treat. Circled yellow.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/164#post-5984607

I tried that first. I Rotated the shaft 90* and bent the flap around but then the flap was about 8mm too short to make contact with the inner loop guide. The bolts were pushing the guide out too far also so I just decided to have it completely redone.

Pic of my realigned ramp.

0EC3C731-347E-4406-BB6E-F2A608722A10 (resized).jpeg29B63DB5-1AA1-45B2-8547-CB8C340C2490 (resized).jpeg
#13199 8 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Question to anyone who centered their left ramp.
I took out the screws, and the ramp is actually as far to the right in the playfield cutout that it will allow.
So even if I wanted to move it, there is no way. But it's clearly not as straight as some of the pics I've seen.
Any thoughts?
Also, I forgot the order I took the screws out, so I don't know if the longer screw goes in the left or right.
Anyone?

You have to reshape the ramp (sander or dremel) to make this adjustment. I used a dremel.

#13414 8 months ago

New diverter I made going in today.

2976A59F-026C-423A-888F-49B9DBCE6F91 (resized).jpeg2EC46687-20B3-4C29-A45F-A22AC20DF23B (resized).jpeg58E7F260-4457-4EF4-8202-0C9622DC49D8 (resized).jpeg
#13433 8 months ago

New diverter looks good and functions perfectly. Loops are fast and consistent.

Made a little spacer with a hard post sleeve and a nylon washer. Made another small adjustment to the right orbit. Seems to be working great.

19D9D502-4A9F-409E-A7D9-D7080D676B07 (resized).jpeg76414798-22CA-4EBB-A63F-D6C113A59D99 (resized).jpeg81746B2E-DDD3-4665-BE7C-DE6BB28EFD04 (resized).jpeg8D59343E-E29F-4F3D-A29B-233D3C7DDC76 (resized).jpegAD68E263-5E0C-4F5A-972A-38E63B26C284 (resized).jpeg
1 week later
#13640 8 months ago

Has anyone had the entire right side go dead on them?

No right flipper, no sling, no launch, no ball feed.....

I think I’m about done with this game.

#13651 8 months ago
Quoted from DNO:

Fuse on the p-roc board, when mine does that occasionally.
only blown about 3 times on location, thousands of plays, one of the top earners!

Yep - fuse - thanks everyone.

#13682 8 months ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

I know that someone (sorry I forget the name) is working on a new diverter that is welded. That would completely fix the issue.
[quoted image]

Me....

and it works great.

531AB669-DFED-4BB8-A5AC-4CBCC4358A3E (resized).jpeg

#13690 8 months ago
Quoted from bemmett:

I have seen some posts in past of those rollover switch sensors used, where do you purchase those? have too many instances of my ball hitting/rejecting or getting stuck on rollover switches in some of the orbits.

Sonic sells the magnetic switches.

#13691 8 months ago
Quoted from Palmer:

Looks great! Are you selling these? If so I will take one.

Sorry, wasn’t planning on selling them. Any metal shop should be able to crank them out though. Maybe Mantis will make some.

#13706 8 months ago

Has anyone tried a different switch for the right side double flipper switch?

#13762 8 months ago

Bug in the new code....

Just finished MoonMen. Loaded up both locks. Death save to scoop (multi-ball lit). Then nothing but the searchlight and a few nice words from Rick. Hard reset.

#13814 7 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

About to replace the stock right flipper switch with beefier ones, but the lugs are reversed.
Does it matter what order I solder them?
See attached, should I keep the red and grey on the same side, or should the higher lugs be used for red and grey?

VERY interested in doing this. This is the last ‘tweak’ my machine needs.

What replacement switch did you go with?

#13816 7 months ago
Quoted from Fytr:

Yes, when I got my game the "soft" feel of the right flipper switch drove me nuts. I tried a bunch of things (disc, homemade stiffer plastic extender) but in the end it was the "zip connector" fix that really made the switch feel the same as other flipper buttons.

I tried the zip-tie but it seems more like a bandaid. Then I soldered an additional leaf to lengthen the long throw to the flipper button but it’s still weird and not staging correctly.

#13823 7 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Here you go:
https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-flipper-leaf-switch-double-contact.html

Right now, I have a plastic washer glued to the clear blade, otherwise, I can't get it to flip both flippers.
I'm hoping that the replacement switch will work better.
Does anyone know what gauge of wire the flipper switches use?
The wires going to my switch have almost no slack, so I figured I'd solder some wires to it on the bench, then just Western Union splice it to the existing wires in the cabinet.
Thanks!

Thanks for the link.

My wires are pretty short too. Since the flipper button wires don’t carry much current, anything close to stock gauge should work fine.

#13860 7 months ago
Quoted from Beamer2007:

Just installed the May 18 update and my upper flipper is not really working, and when it does go off, very weak. Any idea whats up here?
thx

You need to adjust the gaps in the flipper switch... and maybe find a fix for the plastic ‘actuator’ on the first reed.

#13865 7 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

I got my game about 1.5 months ago, and figured Spooky made updates to the ball guides, but it's nearly impossible to hit that garage orbit shot.
Has anyone had any luck improving that? If so, what worked? Changes to the upper flipper? Ball guide?
Thanks!

Ball guide.

I actually scooped out my wooden playfield rail with a belt sander so I could curve the ball guide better. Then recolored the wood with a black sharpie.

9E58B84E-332B-49CD-B766-AA57C984326A (resized).jpegDEFB1A38-84C4-418C-97C3-114647DB002E (resized).jpeg
#13941 7 months ago
Quoted from riggy469:

I’m pretty sure that it wasn’t meeseeks mode and it’s probably a loose opto connector on the horseshoe, as I believe the ball got added when the one target not holding a ball was hit.

Do a code update. I had the same problem - (seemingly) random ball added which wreaked havoc on the ball management code. I haven’t noticed any of those problems in the new code.

#14064 7 months ago
Quoted from GravitaR:

Got a ball stuck on top of the U-Turn target. Let game cycle through multiple ball searches for 5minutes without the ball or target underneath moving. Had to lift game up to free it. I would think the software would at least cycle the targets, but no luck.
[quoted image]

Looks like your target is sticking up a bit too high.

1 week later
#14202 7 months ago
Quoted from SuperPinball:

Is the diverter supposed to be very loud?

Screws are probably hitting the cabinet.

#14279 7 months ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

My issue with the ball bouncing off the upper flipper orbit rail was due to the shooter wireform being just hair low, thus occasionally deflecting the ball - easy to fix once I realized this. The only issue I seem to have now is the left orbit sometimes just dies behind the house somewhere. Wonder where the ball went, then it comes dribbling back out. Which adjustment is supposed to take care of this?

Remove the house and it’s easy to see what’s going on but my bet is that the ball is hitting the diverter behind the house.

#14330 7 months ago
Quoted from Zablon:

Also...completely unnecessary. The only thing you need to do is loosen the rail and a few screws at the end of the lane to adjust it down closer to the flipper. One of the tabs will sit under the railing. Do not overthink it and risk making it worse.

I’m with Flynn on this one.

I damn near had to rebuild my playfield to get mine to play well. To include removing and modifying both side rails, recurving ball guides (and new screw holes in the PF), cutting flipper bushings, shimming the scoop, mag switches across the top end, modifying the right flipper switch, replacing the shooter lane habitrail, making a custom diverter…. anyway. It’s finally playing well.

#14346 7 months ago
Quoted from Fytr:

This list and constructive criticism matches my experience as well, I'm #380.

Hmm…. Then there’s two #380’s because I have a #380 also.

#14354 7 months ago
Quoted from Lounge:

Hmm…. Then there’s two #380’s because I have a #380 also.

86257A01-A1D1-41CA-A612-77111C91F0EF (resized).jpeg
#14397 7 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:Anyone have the issue of the shot not registering when you hit the inner orbit? It used to register every shot, and now about 50% of them go right around the loop without registering.
It especially hurts when you have an Extra Ball lit, and you finally make that shot and get nothing!
Anyone have this issue and find a fix?

MRS #Sonic

#14403 7 months ago
Quoted from CashMoney:

My machine wont boot now for some reason... I updated to the new 5.18.21 code and it says it updated successfully. After I power cycle the game, its now saying an update is required. I'm using the right USB stick format and I pulled the code directly from Spooky's website. I even re-downloaded the code and tried updating again and it yielded the same results.
Any ideas?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Put the stick back in and do it one more time.

#14427 7 months ago
Quoted from Idengager:

I also have #380, does that make 3 of them?

The other was a mistake

Quoted from Fytr:

…my memory sucks. My number is actually # 309. Sorry for the confusion.

But interesting that you have a #380 too. Wonder how many other duplicates are floating around.

#14434 7 months ago
Quoted from Idengager:

Just got the game two weeks ago after a delay so I could move. Haven’t put the number on it yet.
[quoted image]

That’s crazy. Anyone else have a duplicate??

#14445 7 months ago
Quoted from Zablon:

strange...mine had the number 'on' it...

Mine too …. the ‘other’ #380.

1618B2A1-9F81-4C8E-B7F5-2F35A673C931 (resized).jpeg
#14449 7 months ago
Quoted from cartman5579:

Only looking for new, I have terrible OCD…

This is one game that you might want to buy gently “used.” Meaning, someone else did all the tweaking and dialing in.

#14478 7 months ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Wonder if that’s intentional or a limitation of the system.

Mag circuit is tied to the flipper coil and will blow the fuse if both coils are fired is what I remember of the conversation. Limited via software iirc.

#14500 6 months ago
Quoted from Llabnip1972:

I over tightened the flipper bolt and grooved the post. Can anyone tell me which flipper fits rick and morty. Pinball life doesnt describe any of the flipper/bat assemblies as fitting spooky or rick and morty specifically. Thanks

Iirc - they are B/W flipper assemblies.

#14504 6 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Anyone else finding that you have like one good ball a game, then it's super fast drains?
I will have like a 20M ball, then it's 2- balls that barely put up any points.
Never reset a game anywhere as much as I find myself doing with this thing.[quoted image]

Damn!

#14515 6 months ago
Quoted from djsoup:

I got my flipper bushings from Spooky (they just sent them to me btw), and swapped them this weekend. All 3 of my flippers are all wonky now. They dont return back to normal, they sometimes go straight up or down, or stop in different directions during gameplay. I have no idea what I did wrong putting them back together. I've emailed Spooky but I'm hoping someone here might know and this is an easy fix.
[quoted image]

You need a 1-2mm gap between the bat and the bushing. Slide a credit card under there before tightening or use the fancy plastic spacer tool.

#14558 6 months ago
Quoted from Propsnsports:

I wanted to thank you guys in the owners thread. You have been a great help.
I am having 1 more issue. The ball gets hung up in the right orbit, at the switch and rolls back down. It also doesn’t register when you hit the shot in an adventure.
Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
Dana

Magnetic Reed Switch from Sonic fixed that issue for me.

#14563 6 months ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

Does anyone have a rule summary for Moonmen? This is one of two modes I've yet to complete for some reason and even then I'm not entirely sure what the objective is. I know you're supposed to get all the colored crystal shots, presumably in 30 seconds... what happens after that?

Take off the glass.

#14617 6 months ago
Quoted from JohnDeere:

Does anyone have a link to a guide on how to rebuild flippers to put in these new bushings? Also im guessing when rebuilding them the best alignmennt is using a straight edge to have them directly in line with the ball guides not the holes?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers

#14688 6 months ago
Quoted from rotordave:

If they were too high, the ball would hang up on them.

On my machine the ball has got stuck on the left inlane switch several times. Been meaning to fiddle with it but will probably just go magnetic (like I did the upper playfield) and never think about it again.

#14744 6 months ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

I also used a block of sticky back high density foam, stuck it to the ceiling of the "garage cellar". This stopped the portal "skipovers" (right orbit then comes out of left garage lane), and also stopped Garage shot rejects, where the ball would bounce off the back and come back down the left garage lane.

I did the same thing.

A fast shot to the right orbit would bounce out of the garage. Foam on the opposite edge of the garage eliminates that problem.

#14777 6 months ago
Quoted from ThunderLips:

Ok, speaking of flippers, I could use some advice.
I replaced all 3 bushings with the new shorter one''s I just got from Spooky and now I cannot make the left ramp. The lower right flipper only has enough power to make it 2/3 of the way up. I've checked it twice and fiddled with it and don't see anything obviously wrong. I can still backhand the right ramp and it seems zippy enough for every shot other than the left ramp.
I'm no pro at dicking with flippers, but the other two flippers seem to be working fine and I can make all shots with no problem.
I've tried messing with the flipper power settings from 25 up to 40 and I'm not seeing any difference.
Game is still level and I'm at 6.9 degrees. It was always a tough shot, but never had any problems with the left ramp on the old bushings.
This is seriously the best game I've ever owned, just need it working 100% again.
Any advice?

Adjust the gap between the flipper bat and the bushing.

#14788 6 months ago
Quoted from Zablon:

This has also boggled my mind. The lead programmer was testing on a non prod game which we already know...
Are the people who made this game so good at pinball that it doesn't matter how bad the shots are working, they seem fine to them? No rattling? etc? No one noticed the flipper difference?
Or is what they are testing on just that drastically different from what was being made on the line?
All sorts of questions like this. It's not a knock on Spooky specifically, I really don't have enough personal experience with NiB from other companies. I could see where it somehow got missed regarding the difference in height, or maybe someone said it won't matter....but you would think after making the first one, and testing it...someone would have said something feels off rather than just chalk everything up to 'oh it's a hard game'.

It would be interesting to just have this discussion, without anyone getting offended as a lessons learned thing. At least to me.

This is what really (initially) chapped me about the game and the responses I got from the thread here. I’ve been around pinball long enough to know when a game shoots well and when it doesn’t. I also know good design vs poor design (looking at you diverter and ball launch wire form).

And when I got my game it was a clunk-fest of rattlers and rejects. After further inspection it became difficult to distinguish between manufacturing defects (twisted ball guides, ungracious ball guide radii, poorly aligned ramp, switches being missed, etc.) and intentionally ‘difficult’ shots. I questioned this early on and was flamed pretty good for it.

So I tore my PF apart and just began posting my modifications. I can now say the game shoots amazingly well and is what I was expecting out of the box.

I appreciate Spooky for being receptive to the constructive criticism and making changes to their manufacturing techniques. Mistakes should be painful, and I think they learned a lot of good lessons with R&M. I’m really looking forward to seeing how Halloween and ??? turned out with the new processes in place.

#14799 6 months ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

Just watched Bowen tutorial again as it's so good.
Just wondering did the slut dragons ever make it into the game?

No - not yet anyway. Fingers crossed.

#14803 6 months ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Is there a location for the complete game rules?...I found the early one in the key post index, but its not complete...Thanks..

http://tiltforums.com/t/rick-morty-rulesheet/6391

#14805 6 months ago
Quoted from monkfe:

got it ty sir....
edit...but it is missing the moonmen rules....

You’re welcome.

#14808 6 months ago
Quoted from Soulstoner:

Getting weird lighting issues since the last update. The timers at both ends stop displaying correctly, sometimes every light turns plain while while flipping, then reverts back when a switch is hit, and now my pop colour is a sea foam green rather than plain white (all the time even during attract mode).
Anyone else encounter this?
[quoted image]

Did you reseat the cable connectors?

#14817 6 months ago
Quoted from wayinla:

Where is this on the playfield?

Behind the house.

#14859 6 months ago
Quoted from snaroff:

I believe this is it. My target started flaking out after 600 plays back in May.
Bending the target mech up (i.e. toward the front of the PF) fixed my left target. Attached is a before/after photo. Since the targets take a beating, it makes sense that the metal bracket might bend over time and need adjustment.
btw...there is a diagnostic to help identify if the targets are working correctly (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/275#post-6294425).
[quoted image][quoted image]

#14872 6 months ago
Quoted from Iwasthebruce:

Hey y'all! I was wondering if this is happening to anyone else running the public release code from May...very often, I get the "death save" animation on drain...but on switch test nothing is stuck high (also I have no fails when switches are pressed), thoughts?
Thanks!

Give it a couple hard shakes during the switch test.

#14914 6 months ago
Quoted from venom112:

How difficult is it to I talk these switches? What tools are needed?

Soldering iron, a small drill-bit on a dremel (I like to pre-drill the plastic flange), and a nut-driver/screwdriver. Oh, and a lighter for the heat shrink tubing. Takes about 10 min a switch.

#14958 6 months ago
Quoted from guitarded:

I would start by adjusting the cabinet flipper switchstack and setting the EOS to close closer to the end of the stroke.
My right side cabinet flipper switch had shifted a bit during shipping. Got it aligned, tightened and adjusted and haven't had much for issues since.

No EOS on the upper flipper but yes, the leaf-switch stack on the right side can be wonky. Replacing mine with a different one soon.

#15024 6 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

How do you beat "Look Who's Purging Now".
I think it's the only one I haven't beat yet.
Thanks!

Look Who’s Purging Now: On the purge planet, purges happen… well, a lot - and Rick unknowingly traps his grandson there on an adventure. Buy time for Rick to build the communicator and save both of their lives by fending off the planet’s fierce locals, represented by purple arrows moving from left to right across the playfield towards Morty. Locals are killed by hitting the shot they are currently on. You can also kill the right most local by lobbing a defraculation grenade if you have one, this is done by shooting the inner loop. The longer the mode lasts, the closer together the locals spawn, and the farther to the right they are when you kill them their value increases. Morty is located at the right garage entrance, and if a local reaches him, you’ll only have a few seconds to make the shot and save him before the mode ends. Holding off the locals for a long enough time (killing 5 locals) will light the Summer target on the left target bank; hit it with a precise shot to summon the armored suits, and then stay alive for 20 seconds. Shoot the scoop afterwards for hot purging action and successful completion of the mode. Good luck!

http://tiltforums.com/t/rick-morty-rulesheet/6391

#15036 6 months ago
Quoted from guitarded:

Having Horseshoe Opto Issues, here.
My R - side Optos are not working. Every Game starts with it thinking a ball is locked and the Orange Light on.
Traced wiring back to Opto-Boards to make sure connections are secured and they are. Optos are clean and secure on the PF, no shifting or loose screws.
Anyone got an idea of what else I can check?

Wipe them off with a Q-tip - make sure there’s nothing on them.

#15058 6 months ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

Assuming the bottom rubber from the flipper should sit barely above the alignment hole?

Yep.

The right flipper will need to be slightly higher if you want to backhand the right ramp.

#15089 6 months ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

Because people who hold the fippers up a lot for no good reason would get knockdown and complain on some forum.

You might be surprised at how many people here are on your side. But to say there wasn’t a problem with the flippers on this game is disingenuous.

I’ve owned many machines and played hundreds more. R&M, hands down, had the worst flipper problems I have ever come across. Thank you for working with the hardware manufacturer in finding a solution. Moving on…..

Edit - I’m also a software engineer …. I get it.

#15175 5 months ago
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

How many megaseeds did shove up your butt?

Always last the last 2 digits of the score.

1 week later
#15347 5 months ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

I had issues with the flipper button parts previously. I will post what Spooky sends. Supposedly a new design. Will be better than my lego and electrical tape repair.
[quoted image]

I bought one of these…

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/SW-1010A-13

… to replace the questionable stock one. Should be my last tweak. Very interested in Spooky’s replacement part.

#15404 5 months ago
Quoted from sheahan2:

Just joined the club! My first NIB!!!
[quoted image]

Quoted from ripple:

What's the story of where it came from. I was wondering if there would be any outside the 750 numbered edition # TEAM !

+1

#15468 5 months ago
Quoted from monitorpop:

My left rail seems to only be adjustable further out over the playfield graphic. This is image shows it pushed back as far back as it goes. Am I missing something? Any ideas? I’m not a great player but this shot is currently brutal for me on this machine compared to the other R&M machines I have played.[quoted image]

Quoted from Zablon:

1. You will most likely need to drill a new pilot hole
2. The amount you can move it is limited if you don't undo the rail to about the middle.
3. This will vary by machine, but I believe to get the best curve, you need to remove the left wood rail, and one tab will be slightly under it (also probably need a new pilot)
4. By the time you are done, the end of the rail will fall short of the actual post (again something that will vary).
This is just my take on it, others may have a different opinion.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/278#post-6301779

#15547 5 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Here are the details for the IPS LCD upgrade.
This is the screen and controller I purchased. You can use a similar 15.6" IPS LCD screen as long as it has a 30 pin connector and does not have the border along the bottom that most do. The plug must be within the borders of the screen and not sit below it or it will not fit. The similar part number is NV156FHM-N4H. They are available from AliExpress but the end cost isn't much less and shipping time made (as well as return policy) Amazon a no brainer for me. As far as the controller board, again a similar board will work as long as it supports HDMI input, 15.6" 1920x1080 IPS with a 30 pin connector and 12v power. I ordered several different options from Amazon and this was one of the few which met all those needs.
15.6" IPS LCD Screen Replacement: https://amzn.to/3itT4dS
HDMI LCD Controller Board: https://amzn.to/3jCR2rv
I created the mounting brackets and PCB support for the screen and controller linked above if you want to make it a plug and play install. It makes it a pretty easy swap. The original mounting frame can't be used to mount the new panel and controller. I'll make an install video which uses these brackets but will show you how to do the swap even if you're making your own or just taping the screen in place
https://pinballmods.co/rick-and-morty-pinball-mods/rick-morty-lcd-upgrade-ips-bracket
I tried to give a comparison shot. It's really worth the upgrade IMHO. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Can you publish the maker files for 3D printing the brackets, please?

#15556 5 months ago
Quoted from northerndude:

He sells them. May not be ideal for him to give away his work.

I’ll gladly pay for design work. Didn’t realize he made a living this way. Not looking for handouts.

I’d even buy it as a complete kit if it was offered ~ harryhoudini

#15559 5 months ago
Quoted from metallik:

The 'kit' is available:
- Buy the screen and controller from Amazon that he linked to in his post
- Buy the mounting kit he also linked to on his site (it's 28 bucks)
That should be everything you need.

Done and done.

Was not aware the brackets were on his site.

#15704 5 months ago
Quoted from macethetemplar:

I fully 100% support DLC it and I don't understand why anyone wouldn't. I would spend $1000 a year for more content.

So you own a $10K machine for 10 years that you have $20K into. An asset that gets more expensive the longer you own it. Makes owning a boat sound cheap.

#15770 5 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Had the weirdest thing happen... Got an airball off the flipper that hit something over on the left side of the pf, then rocketed back and ended going through the gap at the side of the apron, then rolling down and into the coinbox.
After looking at it, there is a huge gap between the apron and wall of the cabinet. All other games (Stern, B/W, etc) have that space closed up, so not sure what Spooky was thinking here.

Quoted from Var1AbL3:

I had this happen twice, once when I first got the game and another time more recently. The second time when it hit the apron it shorted out my BlackLight strip and immediately my machine started smoking ... literally. I turned it off (obviously) removed the light strip and the game worked fine. But, after I got a replacement light strip I also ordered a basic post with a wood screw base from Pinball Life (like the ones on the PF) and installed it on the rail right in front of the gap. This seems to have fixed the issue.

Same - put a post there - solved.

#15858 4 months ago
Quoted from Sonic:

This customer, not only put MRS' in the problematic upper quadrant of the playfield - but also at the in/out-lanes and the shooter lane! Looks good - probably plays ridiculously fast.
Matt
M&M Creations
[quoted image][quoted image]

Doing my inlanes this week good stuff Matt.

#15878 4 months ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

You won't be sorry, my machine is the one in Matt's post but note I swapped two of the uppers for the two inlane switches since that photo was posted. You will want the inlane switches to face down towards the player to avoid interference with the antigravity magnet on the right side.

Uugh - I literally just added the switches magnets up and ran a switch test. Did NOT test the magna-save. Lesson learned.

I’ll be switching them tomorrow.

#15884 4 months ago
Quoted from Sonic:

Sorry about that Tom - orlandu81 was the first to discover this - so going forward we'll be sure to let folks know that on inlanes - you won't notice it by doing the magna save test either - it's only when the ball is actually held on the magna-save - it sort of acts like an antenna.....to the inlane MRS....just roll it and it'll be fine..
Matt

No worries, Matt. I’ve had this game apart so much I can pretty much do it in my sleep.

#15902 4 months ago

Finished up my final 'fix' for R&M. Using fake quotes as it's more of an optional fix.

Originally I had a problem staging the right flippers. I modified the original switch by soldering an additional leaf to the leaf that contacts the flipper button to make it longer and have better contact. It was okay but still wasn't quite long enough - it only reached half way up the button plunger and I figured the edge of the leaf would eventually wear and cause problems.

So I bought a BW dual flipper switch with a really long leaf and a Stern double flipper switch because Scott mentioned that the BW switch has too much resistance and would not work out well.

Pic 1 - The Stern and BW switches side by side.

Pic 2 - The dissection in progress.

Pic 3 - The reassembled/modified Stern switch.

Pic 4 - I used a screw to extend the flipper button plunger to get better contact with the extended leaf and make easy adjustments for sensitivity.

Got it all soldered up and reassembled and a few tweaks later was staging with ease.

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#15903 4 months ago

Installed.

IMG_6372 (resized).JPG
#15904 4 months ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

You won't be sorry, my machine is the one in Matt's post but note I swapped two of the uppers for the two inlane switches since that phot