Hello, has anyone gone without the interior graphics and (if so) were you happy with that decision?
Thanks! 
(Topic ID: 257850)
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3 weeks later
Quick question about coil wrappers: The dead air space (between the coil wrapper and coil) would act as a temperature insulator, correct?
Has anybody just tried tearing off the wrappers to see if that helps with cooling?
2 weeks later
Picked up #570 today at the loading dock. Just got it into the garage and should be opening it up in a few minutes!
Any Canadians who want to convert their US coin mechanisms on the cheap, just remove the rare-earth magnet in the coin mech. You will still get the odd reject (depending on the year of the coin) but it's better than blowing $60 to replace something that mostly works with a small tweak.
In the photos, the grey mech is from R&M (For US quarters), the red mech is for Canadian quarters.
Step one: Open small rectangular door with Phillips screwdriver
Step two: Remove magnet
That's pretty much it.
If you want to adjust the mech further, the screw at the upper left is useful for adjusting the mech to the size of the coin.
IMG_20210328_133648726 (resized).jpgIMG_20210328_143110926 (resized).jpgIMG_20210328_141024768 (resized).jpgQuoted from Westbury:Thats weird because mine came with that screw as well and ours were built beside each other! I assumed it was to keep the house from moving around in shipping. Everytime i need to remove the house i put that screw back in, but i'm not sure why i do... haha someone please tell me what this screw is for!!!
I put the house back in without the screw last night and now for some reason I want to put it back in as well! 
Quoted from razorsedge:Same.
Makes sense though when you think about it. Wedging. Driving the ball at the playfield, downward.
Lots of unnecessary drag, compared to being nicely in line (on plane) so that there's negligible drag.
ie. go too far the opposite way, with flippers too low or bands around bottom step, get air shots like playing golf.
I like your comparison to golf! This issue reminds me a lot of topping a golf ball. Top of ball is hit, ball is forced downwards (with forward spin) and slams / digs into ground (or playfield).
My bushings were so long that I could slide a wooden paint stir stick underneath the flippers without them even making contact!
I was comfortable enough with this job to proceed with doing it myself. So I just used an inverted (and levelled) belt sander and a digital caliper. Shave, measure, shave, measure until I reached my target length (sounds like most folks are removing about 0.125" or 1/8" (3.175mm) from their bushings, I removed just a tiny bit more than that).
I would recommend shortening your bushings (or request shorter bushings from Spooky) for the following reasons:
* Reduce friction or downward force on the playfield
* Reduce tearing of flipper rubber bottoms
* Improve the likelyhood of making that Portal Shot
* Apparently - Reduced air balls on right ramp? - I haven't had one air ball since I made this change - but I also recognize that this could just be anectdotal evidence due to some very good luck!!! I would appreciate to hear from others to see if this issue has actually gone away since they made this change?
I'm occasionally getting two balls stuck behind the right target, it's happened 2x now in about 20 games. It happened during multiball so I didn't see what had caused it, might just be some bad luck or maybe the result of random or very light ball strike? Unfortunately, once two balls are stuck behind the right target, the weight of the balls seems to prevent the drop target from successfully dropping down during a ball search. Adjusting the strength of the drop target coil doesn't help and the glass has to come off. Is there something I should be checking to prevent this condition from recurring? Thanks!
Quoted from epthegeek:Do the targets both go down properly when multiball starts? The targets shouldn't go up at all during multiball; so it's weird that one was up at all.
Also - the "drop" force is just a spring, the pulse for dropping is just how long the 'hold pin' is held out of the way to LET it drop.
I am sure that both targets do drop when multiball starts. l will try to keep a better eye on the machine and hopefully see if I can somehow repeat the conditions. Thanks for the info about the drop force, that's good to know! I will definitely post if this somehow happens again.
Quoted from metallik:For me, the solution was complaining on pinside; since then it hasn't missed a single launch but seriously, after complaining I did a few more tweaks, and I think the thing that is most important is making sure the end closest to the player is shoved into the playfield as far as it'll go, then jam something underneath at the bends to keep it that way. That makes it consistent, then it's just a matter of finding the best launch value. One notch above default works for me.
Good idea, what is the best thing to jam in at those bends?
Quoted from northerndude:Hey all recently my pop bumper (slam ring) isn't wanting to fire when the ball is coming straight down on it with low force. It has been a real slow progression with this happening as it's getting worse and worse. I can't adjust my switch any more closed as it would start to fire with a bump or flipper hit so that's not the culprit.
It almost seems like the skirt bottom isn't pointing dead straight down into the cup to activate the switch. Maybe its not centred in the cup making it more difficult to activate in that one direction. Also maybe there's just a bit too much friction in the cup from the skirt poker end.
Anyone ever put a tiny dot of lithium grease on a Q tip or something and rubbed it in the cup to create less friction? Anyone had this happen? any thoughts?
I know this is more of a pop bumper thing than a R&M thing, but figured i'd try the masses on this first.
Have you tried cleaning the switch by sliding a piece of paper soaked in isopropyl alcohol through it? Otherwise, maybe just try a light application of wax in that cup, that should reduce the friction (at least enough to know if you are on the right track). Also, if you haven't already, you can remove those two washers from each post (assuming there are three on each threaded post) from both sides of the pop bumper as well, that should bring the bumper ring down a bit and could help.
Is it normal for the magnet to get locked on during Groflomite multiball? I've checked the switch, it's gapped just fine. And the magnet does not deplete the meter - but it's definitely locked on (ball hovering over the inlane). Maybe this is a ball save feature? I just wanted to be sure it's not a glitch before I look into it further.
Thanks!
@epthegeek, I was switching between the "Original" and "Default" Flipper Hold settings and come across an interesting (and repeatable) glitch.
When I first power up R&M on "Default" Flipper hold settings, my flippers buzz at a low frequency and are prone to knockdowns. The following is the sound of the left flipper hold, then the right flipper hold:
But if I:
1. Exit to Settings
2. Change to "Original" Flipper Hold setting
3. Start a game
4. Exit to Settings
5. SWITCH BACK TO "DEFAULT" Flipper Hold setting
6. Start a game
Then my flippers buzz at a much higher frequency, they have excellent power and absolutely no knockdowns. I am also able to make the garage shot with no difficulty at all. Listen to this:
I would love to keep this as a default setting, it's fantastic! But once the machine is power cycled, it goes back to the low frequency buzz and spastic flippers on the default setting.
So for those of you who are still on "Default" Flipper Hold settings (particularly those of you claiming to have no issues) which of these two clips sounds more like YOUR machine?
Also, could the frequency of the flipper buzz help as some sort of baseline from which we can compare our machines? Just wondering if all machines behave the same for this variable.
Quoted from Pdxmonkey:Is there a post that shows how the house comes out?
Or is there a trick to getting at the diverter
Both ramps have to come off first to get access to the screws on either side of the house (1 screw on either side). At least, that's the only way I could get to those screws.
Quoted from epthegeek:The “higher” frequency is likely the original pattern; it’s basically doubletime compared to the new “default”. I’m not sure why it would have stuck on “original” even though you changed it. I’ll look into that I guesss.
Hi Eric, this is very helpful, thank you! You were right, that is definitely the audio for the Original flipper hold! What I FINALLY realized during all this troubleshooting was that my machine had to be power cycled before the "Original" flipper hold setting will take effect. Looks to be a similar situation when I need to switch back to "Default" flipper hold.
FYI, my machine had shipped with December code and it flipped great. So I was somewhat bewildered when I was recently switching back to "Original" flipper hold and getting such wonky results (flippers were collapsing non-stop). But after first setting to "Original" FOLLOWED BY A POWER CYCLE, the flipper hold is exactly what I remember from the December code!
Thanks very much for letting me know that this was the "Original" flipper pattern audio, that definitely got me on the right track!
Quoted from marspinball:Anyone have any issues installing the mantis garage protector? It won't slide into place. It's just a hair too large. I don't want to damage the clear and don't want to use any more force than necessary.
Any suggestions?
Off the cuff I would say to use a small cutting wheel (Dremel) to cut a slit in the ring portion to allow the ring to compress slightly? Maybe don't cut all the way through the ring portion unless you absolutely have to and make the cut in a location where it's not going to be visible. I don't have a protector yet but that's most likey where I would start if I really had to make it fit.
Quoted from arzoo:That's correct, Grom+Meeseeks.
5 balls...That's just a bit too much excitment for me! I had a regular multiball yesterday where one ball went airborne and slammed directly into the blue crystal. Just about crapped my pants! I had just switched to the loosey goosey williams springs so things seem a bit more wild now.
1 week later
I took my head completely off. Wasn't fun but it's do-able. Unfortunately, I had to disconnect 3 wires from some IDC connectors. Those wires should have been together in one harness but they were split up in the cabinet and then came up into the head on two seperate harnesses. Oh well, I am now much more familiar with my machine this way!
Thanks to those of you who are recording your sessions to help with this troubleshooting!
Last night during a Multiball the Rick Target didn't drop (Morty target was down and a ball was stuck behind the Rick target). I managed to hit the Rick target with a ball to send the ball out the Morty side, and then the Rick target dropped. When I thought all the balls had drained, I found one ball sitting in the ship scoop (this was my first time witnessing this). Unfortunately, there was waaay too much going on for me to say "this condition was first met, then A, then B and then C happened... So I definitely appreciate those of you folks who have the ability to record your game sessions!! Keep up this good work, we will eventually document the conditions that lead to this!
Quoted from dferg24:Hey guys, looking at buying a new in box from an owner who just received his but wants to sell it. Just wanted to confirm the warranty will transfer and what exactly the warranty period is. Thanks in advance!
Lucky You!
It's a One Year Warranty (described on Spooky website).
Just contact Spooky directly to ensure that the warranty can be transferred over to you.
Wow folks, ever look a gift horse in the mouth much? I was hoping to see some more new modes / dimensions in the future but at this rate we will be lucky if a picture of the programmer's extended middle finger doesn't show up as the first screen of the service menu!
So many of the answers are already in this thread and have been addressed many times over and yet some individuals just keep bringing up the same shit over and over (too lazy to read or they just need to yell into the old echo chamber). Can we just let him work on code improvements please? Start by reading those key posts maybe...
I say we ditch the new flipper code, go back to the flipper code from last year. And for those of you who play long enough to see flipper fade, maybe just buy some Pinmonk fans.
Question: Could a person weld the current diverter components together as well or would it be too weak or maybe the two metals are not the same?? So far haven't had issues with my diverter but I would definitely consider it.
Quoted from manadams:Had some defects on my art blades from the factory so I put tilt graphics ones on, original ones are pretty blah anyway.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Interesting, these blades actually look pretty darn good once they are installed. When I first saw that design I kept thinking "How many times can the artist cut and paste the same damn rocks and planets?" But (now that I see it installed) I would definitely consider this. Thanks for posting some pictures of the installed artwork.
1 week later
Had two issues with my stock ball launch wire form:
1. It was pressing / torquing very hard against a connector (see photo). Every ball launch was jolting that connector and could have (eventually) caused some issues with the connector pins or even a cracked solder joint on that PCB. I quickly zipped off the end of the wireform with a dremel cutting wheel.
2. The wireform ends are not pulled snug enough against the playfield (see wireform bend as it comes out of playfield in the photo). There is a lot of play here and I wonder if this was another unforeseen issue with the thinner playfields. It really looks (to me) like this wireform was bent with a thicker playfield in mind.
FYI, my wireform would start climbing upwards (which caused some issues with ball launches) but it has since settled down. If you can get your wireform to "stay down" you will be rewarded by more consistent ball launches.
Quoted from northerndude:I have a cart loaded up with like $16 in bulb spares, but shipping is $64 usd for fuck sakes. I asked nicely to PBL if there was an alternate shipping option like tossing these in an envelope and the mail and they brushed me off....
PBL did the same to me (totally brushed me off). I also asked nicely (for a cheaper shipping option) and I let them know that we Canadians are patient and would prefer shipping via USPS. I used to love PBL but they are being total wankers with regards to shipping right now.
2 weeks later
The Pinballife website says: "Used on all Spooky pinball machines from 2014 to present. Spooky reference #300-0199-00."
So...no...this is probably not the lowered bushing we have been clamoring for...
Quick Question, since this is my first machine with plastic ramps: Is it safe to use VMP Naptha to strip the wax off of these plastic ramps?
Thanks!
Quoted from Aniraf:Right!? It is insane how much better the game is!
I meant to ask: Have you settled on a final "power level" for your flippers? As per your other posts I have also lowered my power from 30 to 25. Still no problem making the ramps and the scoop (seems) to have less rejects. Have you found an absolute lower threshold yet (where you can't make the ramps?) Have you also experienced less scoop rejects at the lower power settings?
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:The song for the TNA dimension is Alpha Particles. That is the song that plays when Reactor 1 is running on TNA.
--Scott
Posting this here just in case anyone asks which TNA song is already included in R&M...
Love this song, sometimes I will cradle the ball, open the coin door and boost the volume while this song is playing (that and for the fart dimension as well)
2 weeks later
Under the house (right against the backboard). Impossible to see without removing the house. But it can be actuated manually from under the playfield so you should be able to get a "feel" for whether yours is binding or not. I haven't done anything about the screws...yet.
Quoted from goingincirclez:Here's my own diverter smoother, made for free with clear flexible polycarbonate plastic salvaged from throwaway packaging (reduce, re-use, recycle!):
[quoted image]
I simply cut the piece of plastic to fit and laminated it to the diverter flap with clear packing tape (aka mylar) as shown. The plastic covers the screw heads and forms a nice, smooth, even surface for the ball to glide right over them. I installed the flap without removing or adjusting any part of the diverter, and it would be easily removed and replaced if needed. The plastic should be durable and not wear out, but only time will tell.
IMPORTANT NOTE: the overlapping portion on the right side, ends up not being needed! In one of my posts above I described amazement at the difference 1/8" can make... As it turns out, the 1/16 thickness of that plastic flap overlapping the right side wall, was enough to deflect a ball away from the garage entirely, and instead into the spinner lane! It was so smooth I thought my diverter had quit working - but when I removed the house and played the game to investigate, I was shocked to see the ball deflect from that. Yeah: geometry with speed is a cruel bitch So I cut the plastic flap flush with end of the diverter, but still covering the screw heads. There's no binding (my diverter fasteners are not scraping the backboard) and the overlay flap's intended effect is still in place.
The shot is now so smooth and reliable from either direction and path at any speed, it's one of my favorite shots in this or any game.
Good work! I just noticed you also have one of those random screws that were installed to hold the roof of the house down! Here's mine:
IMG_20210327_105141192 (resized).jpgFeature Request: For IMPROVEMENTS TO Jerry Dimension
Replace (or add to) the callouts with various SOUNDS OF COMPUTER GLITCHING? Scott should have some really great glitching effects that could be incorporated here? Maybe even add the "Yes!" callout for more variety?
Other suggestion: Find a more suitable candidate for the "My Man" callout and add that back into the dimension?
Thanks @epthegeek! I really hope you are still working hard on this code, I am having a really great time with this machine!
Quoted from P1nhead:There is a Jerry dimension. Has a "my man" call out that was removed from the game in the latest update.
Yes, I am aware, please try reading my entire post?
I was trying to ask for some extra additions to this dimension so that we can move forward and make it fun again.
Quoted from marspinball:Having an issue with my game and not sure if it's software or hardware related.
When I win recharge meter my led's don't register anything. But I can recharge hitting the wire/lock shot. It used to top off the led's before.
Is this a known issue?
Definitely a loose connector. My meter was recently showing only one green bar but nothing else. Just needed to push connector back onto board and back in business.
Quoted from guitarded:Same thing here. My Right Target will only drop on a well timed nudge.
Same, I previously had to nudge the game at just the right moment to get my right target to drop (usually about 3-4 seconds right after the music starts at the end of a game).
To fix I had to bend the "finger" on the bracket for my Rick (right) target to roughly match up with the angle of the finger on the working Morty (left) target. All good now, just wish I had taken pictures while I had that bracket out.
As per @zablon, I also wonder if this could be another issue with the thinner playfields - but at least it's a fairly easy fix!
Quoted from monkfe:I've had this same issue...and yes it charges when striking the flooble crank wire, but not on the awarded "mystery award"
Are you 100% sure that it wasn't the portal gun charge awarded during the mystery award? I have gotten this confused for the flooble crank charge a few times.
I'm really happy for all the folks who purchased the latest "Ultra Stabby Peekaboo Hedge Man Game."
But I'm selfishly hoping that the R&M party doesn't end too soon! Eric, Scott, et. al. have done an incredible job. Moonman (which was a later addition) is definitely my favorite mode so far! So I'm still hoping there might be a few more cool additions to come? And let's face it, this game is still incomplete...at least until an acceptable "my man" callout returns!
Anyway, keep up the great work Spooky! 
Just wondering if anyone has a solution for balls getting hard-wedged behind the Meeseeks target?
I thought I had this fixed already (by squaring up that metal bracket behind the upper flipper) but repeated ball hits to the bracket have just caused it to re-bend and now the balls are getting wedged behind the Meeseeks target again.
Rather than re-bending (and further weakening) this metal bracket - I thought I should ask: Has anyone tried (and succeeded) in fixing this yet?
Seems like the following are viable options:
1. Use a stronger bracket
2. Use a slightly longer bracket
3. Move the current bracket over slightly (drill two new holes)
3. Insert a post between bracket and Meeseeks target (drill one new hole)
Thoughts or ideas?
1 week later
Here is a picture of mine. Similar to yours, looks like it could break at any moment.
I took mine off the machine and rubbed in some 30 minute epoxy into all the open cracks / spaces.
To any onlooker it probably looked like I was wanking it off. 
I'm hoping the Epoxy will help. If not, I will probably just replace mine with a triangular wooden dowel or something more fit for purpose.
If I ask Spooky for a replacement, I might as well just ask for 5, these are fragile little things!
IMG_20210403_154209043 (resized).jpgGENERAL CURIOSITY (Re: Shooter Lane Wireform):
I was just on the Pinballife site and checking out the new shooter lane wireform. In the description it says:
"Spooky made 2 different versions of the original shooter lane wireform. This upgraded wireform will replace both versions."
Does anybody know how the first two versions differed? Is this why I've had no issues (knock on wood) while others couldn't make that switch fast enough?
Quoted from fnord:My guess is the versions are purple and black, BSE and Standard.
I was wondering about that too!
mrbillishere also suggested setting the color temperature to SRGB, suggesting 50/50/50 along with Contrast 100, Brightness 0, Gamma ON.
I went with 60/60/60, Contrast 100, Brightness 30, Gamma On --> or something very close to that.
Hopefully this link works:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/217#post-6136609
I wonder if Spooky could buy some IPS screens in bulk and then offer it as an upgrade for these machines. I know I would buy one right away.
I upgraded to an IPS screen in my MAME cabinet, really impressive viewing angles, seems to look fantastic no matter where you are standing in the room.
Quoted from fnord:Removing the head was a huge pain. You cannot simply unplug everything, there are at least 2 wires that need to be removed from connectors to detach them.
Take lots of pictures and take your time. In the end I think I made it more stressful than it needed to be but I was very intimidated (this was my newest machine by 40yrs)
I had to remove the head and I also ran into that same ridiculous wire-routing issue. At least two wires had to be removed from one connector because they were travelling into the head through separate holes! WTF! 
It was a very unexpected and frustrating thing to see. But it's all good now, I bought some extra plugs for those wires to make the next move a little easier. Not sure how many folks had to behead their machines, but I'm actually kind of glad that I'm not the only one who ran into this wire-routing issue! Misery loves company!
Quoted from fnord:What plugs did you buy?
Oh just similar plug ends as what was already in the machine. I haven't installed them yet but I will pick a good spot to snip the wires before the next move.
IMG_20210326_163721848~2 (resized).jpgQuoted from Hench4Life:I ended up “shark-fin” the head in order to get it in my house. There was plenty of slack in the harness to swivel the head and shrink wrap it in place. Used some mover straps with a buddy and it was pretty smooth. That will probably be my go-to for my narrow doorway from now on.
I had to go down into a basement with a very narrow 90 degree bend. I will definitely need helpers if I attempt the shark fin method!
Quoted from Zablon:HAHA is this a No. Stop, I can't take anymore and want to move on with my life? Or a No. Stop you are against DLC?
I think it's a "No. Stop, you are just embarrassing yourselves..." 
1 week later
Quoted from Sonic:This customer, not only put MRS' in the problematic upper quadrant of the playfield - but also at the in/out-lanes and the shooter lane! Looks good - probably plays ridiculously fast.
Matt
M&M Creations
[quoted image][quoted image]
Probably easier to wax too! Would be nice to lay down a uniform layer of wax without goobering up all the wire switches!
2 weeks later
Quoted from northerndude:Holy!
Ep 9,10 are like brain blowers. Crazy
I really need to watch these, been saving them for a slow TV night!
1 month later
I'm still very happy with no art blades at all. Especially since I keep accidentally scraping the edge of the playfield along the left edge of the cabinet.
3 months later
Does anyone know when the "Rick-Bot Circuits Activated" callout was added?
That made me so happy, Pinbot was my favourite pinball machine in the late 80's.
@epthegeek, thanks for adding that!
3 months later
Quoted from beltking:On the white plastic or at top by metal? There looks to be a broken off metal by the plus sign on the white area.
Yes, looks to be right where that "+" sign is on the plastic. Really hard to get a photo from back there but here is the best photo I could get.
IMG_20220618_081413894_HDR (resized).jpg 1 month later
Quoted from goingincirclez:A "time warp" dimension where the game sounds like an EM. Total head trip to contrast with everything else! In the true EM spirit scoring might be stingy, or perhaps most lucrative on certain targets only (no loop or ramp scoring, but pop bumper, captive ball, standups worth triple or something).
Yes please! An EM dimension would be fantastic! More ideas like this please!
Maybe even have Gottlieb-style target lighting to go with it - where everything you hit turns a light off instead of on?
Recorder dimension - Same idea as dog and horn dimension but features ghastly off-key ear-splitting notes played on a grade school recorder. If done right, this could be the most hilarious (and relatable) mode in all of pinball! 
1 month later
Quoted from rockrand:Has anyone changed there coin cell battery on there r and m where the battery is wrapped and taped to the unit.
I would like to know if I can remove the battery and replace while the game is running and not mess up anything,I asked spooky a few days ago and I did not get a response.
Thanks
Hi, can you photograph the battery you are referring to?
I swapped my CR2032 battery out yesterday (with game running) and had no issues. But mine was mounted in a regular battery holder with no tape.
3 months later
OK, I just pulled the trigger on some halo precision flippers! Hopefully I ordered all the correct stuff, I'm just copying orlandu81 and
SuperMas77 as I am very happy with how those silver halos look!!!
3 weeks later
I changed out my CR2032 battery in September 2022 and it had 3.1 volts remaining. I then installed that same battery into my vehicle's remote starter controller - but it failed to work for that purpose.
5 months later
Quoted from northerndude:Omg, heard the “AIDS” callout by Rick this morning. Caught me off guard, havent heard it forever!! Awesome
Oh thank goodness, I thought they removed it!!
That one always makes me laugh cause he says it with such enthusiasm!
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