Rick and Morty (Blood Sucker Edition)
Spooky Pinball, 2020
Rick and Morty (Standard)
Spooky Pinball, 2020You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider good-times.
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Quoted from razorsedge:I was speaking with another owner whom had seen his machine from the container, said on his game the playfield hangers came out of the lockdown receiver. Playfield dropped into the cabinet.
Wow what a nightmare the entire consignment has been! Do you know if his was one that was stacked on its side on top?
Quoted from snaroff:Well, the spacer helped solve my vibration issues. At the moment, RAM sounds as good as any of my PinWoofer enhanced games (and I'm a big fan of Dan's PinWoofer product...was an early adopter).
Stock Stern speakers have no spacers since the stock speakers are dirt cheap and the system is awful/underpowered. PinWoofer adds spacers since the better speakers/amp demand it. I believe this is true for RAM as well. The backbox speakers have nice spacers and sound great. It's a shame Spooky doesn't have a spacer for the sub, but it was cheap and straightforward to add. The bigger shame is Spooky did do a great job on the audio setup, but the out-of-box experience is arguably crappy. For audio aware folks, not a big deal. For newbies and folks that don't have time to fiddle, it's a darn shame!
If the spacer is helping there are two reasons for this; either it’s stopping the woofer’s surround from hitting the grill, in which case you could just remove the grill, or it’s decoupling the woofer from the cabinet, in which case a felt or EVA foam gasket will do the same.
Quoted from DeathHimself:Has anyone hooked up an external powered sub like the Polk PSW10 to their R&M yet? If so could you explain how you did it, thanks.
The amplifier in R&M has an auxiliary output, so connect your sub direct to that and you're good to go!
IMG_8520 (resized).jpgHey Scott, strange because I'm getting a full-range signal from this and been using my 18" sub with it for months now.
(Edit to add: I see the specs of the amp say it's a 3.5mm aux input, but trust me, give it a try. It outputs for some weird reason. Maybe it's crosstalk?)
Quoted from PinballwizardMas:couldn't find anything other then the inner loop and shooter lane.
It's basically the same thing. You're trying to remove any flat spots in the arc, and reduce the curvature if you can as well. This equates to re-drilling the first hole, and letting one of the tabs sit under the timber siderail. I did the mod as per instructions but found it wasn't perfect, so did it again by eye and found the sweet spot for my machine. It also should be done at the same time as the rail that feeds the upper flipper (move it so it's a smooth transition to the flipper) and adjusting the end points of the upper flipper too.
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