(Topic ID: 257850)

Official Rick and Morty Club - You are not like other carbon based life forms.

By TheNoTrashCougar

4 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

106 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #256 Rules posted by Eric as of Feb 2020 Posted by epthegeek (4 years ago)

Post #510 R&M Options Posted by Morinack (4 years ago)

Post #589 Useful post for coin door comparison. Posted by NeilMcRae (4 years ago)

Post #637 More code rules - Adventures full lost Posted by epthegeek (4 years ago)

Post #745 Club thread reminder. Posted by TigerLaw (4 years ago)

Post #748 Cards for the game rules and what not. Posted by Coindropper (4 years ago)

Post #751 Darker outline for instruction cards. Posted by Coindropper (4 years ago)

Post #976 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Wireform ball launch and coil adjustment Posted by timmmmyboy (4 years ago)

Post #1006 TECH:Pitch recommendation from Scott. Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (4 years ago)


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#934 4 years ago
Quoted from gliebig:

[quoted image]

That's pretty awesome. Is there a dimension out there where the Orioles are any good? I kid I kid.

#950 4 years ago
Quoted from northerndude:

Whatever happened to asking nicely, being polite, and showing appreciation?

That shit only happens in Canada. You got a problem with that?

#1280 4 years ago
Quoted from SlightlySnaked:

A good deal from Gamestop? Without the pictures, I wouldn't have believed it.

I got a good deal from Gamestop too. Got the USB Ship for $12. No picture of price tag though. You're just going to have to believe me.

1 week later
#1433 4 years ago
Quoted from FYMF:

Honestly wouldnt take 25 Gs for mine but to each their own

You sir are crazy. Anyone that wants to give me $25 Gs for mine (when it arrives) can PM me now.

#1436 4 years ago
Quoted from guitarded:

I'd sell my spot for $24k. I'd even go to Wisonsin, Pick it up and deliver it anywhere in the Lower 48.
$24.5k and I will include Alaska.

Oh so you had to undersell me didn't you. I had somebody on the hook for 25K and you've gone and ruined it.

#1452 4 years ago
Quoted from guitarded:

If they want Butter, it's a $50 upcharge.

I'll go to $40.

#1523 4 years ago
Quoted from FYMF:

Listen guys.
I am by no means in charge however here are the rules and I am going to tell you to follow them.
Lol come on w this.
I need popcorn

No popcorn. Didn't you see the sign?

#1591 4 years ago
Quoted from cmack750:

I 100% agree with this. That said, I find ratings useful, but only if there is some level of detail that explains it. It also helps me to formulate a basic understanding of the strengths and weaknesses of a game before I get a chance to play it. For a game you might be interested in buying but don't have an opportunity to play in depth first, that's pretty important. Since ratings are weighted based on a players individual preferences and priorities, there isn't any way to understand why a rating is what it is without that. If ratings were disallowed without providing reasonable comment detail, that would be helpful.

Maybe don't count the lowest 10 and highest 10 ratings in the overall rating. Maybe 10 isnt the right number but that would eliminate the extremes in the rating process.

1 week later
#1737 3 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

What does this have to do with Germany?

Didn't they bomb Pearl Harbor?

#1738 3 years ago
Quoted from jellikit:

I couldn't see if this was answered, but as of tomorrow Wisconsin has shutdown all non-essential businesses, Spooky included.

Objection. If it pleases the court, I would like to let it be known that Spooky is essential.

#1764 3 years ago
Quoted from docquest:

The tabs missing screws are what people are calling screw #2 and screw #3.
Screw #1 is the one at the end of the rail that has a slot in it that allows you to adjust how big the opening is for that shot.
I opened mine up (pull rail down, towards player) and it shots pretty smooth. Some suggest closing the opening more (move rail up, away from player) to increase curve of the rail.
If you closed it all the way then the rail edge is exposed and ball can hit the sharp edge head on which might chew up the ball over time. If you open it up by moving it down, the edge of the rail is protected by the nearby rubber post.
If you look at the way I have the rail set now it follows the curve of the playfield art much more closely than it did before adjustment.
I wonder if the playfield art was draw such that the rail was intended to follow its curve?[quoted image]

Thanks for the very clear description. Are you just leaving the guide rail as is? ... with the screw #s 2 and 3 removed? Thanks

#1768 3 years ago

Probably a stupid question or it has been addressed before (or both) but did the machine come with the target decals on it or do you have to order them as an add-on? I noticed they are in the add-on list but wasn't sure if they are truly extras or not. Thanks.

2 weeks later
#2056 3 years ago
Quoted from dnapac:

Replaced my post rubbers with some Cliffy’s. Awesome! Any modder want to make me megaseeds and branches to mount on the top of the pink posts [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

The pink posts look cool but I'm thinking Titan's "glow" color might be really cool on this machine.

#2148 3 years ago
Quoted from cyberslunk:

Reposting because shills spammed the last thread to death before people could see my posts.
Did you guys know that Dan Harmon and Justin Roiland creators of Rick and Morty are both pedophiles and sadistic sick fucks?
Dan Harmon even made a comedy skit about him being a baby rapist, in the skit he rapes a plastic baby doll and apparently this kind of thing gets you a major shot at network aimed at children like Cartoon Network. Roiland's earlier works contain other things like a character who kidnaps cuts children's faces off and wears them as masks. Another character that shits in childrens mouths, and a third that stabs a child in the chest then fucks the stab hole.
"A five-minute video, featuring Rick & Morty creator Dan Harmon playing a child molester named Daryl who climbs through a window, pulls down his underwear, and rubs his genitals on a plastic baby doll lying on a couch has gone viral. So much so that Harmon has deleted his Twitter account to avoid any questions about it.
While the video is meant to be a comedy bit, the subject matter and Dan’s nudity in the video seems highly questionable at best. This is coming off the heels of James Gunn being fired by Disney as the writer/director of Guardians of the Galaxy Vol. 3 following thousands of tweets featuring references to sexual acts with children emerged. Comedian Michael Ian Black also is under fire when old tweets about child molestation also went viral after resurfacing on social media."
Link to the "comedy skit" https://www.bitchute.com/video/xnQIwtDhxKQ6/

Well that changed Supertramp's "Goodbye Stranger" for me forever.

#2162 3 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

7/16" OD rubber is working well so far. Mine has shifted a little bit to the side but it works.[quoted image][quoted image]

Maybe put a second one next to it. Oh yeah.. and make them purple!

#2238 3 years ago

Would someone mind posting a list of the rubber rings, post sleeves, etc used? Thanks

1 month later
#3325 3 years ago
Quoted from DanQverymuch:

Seems to me like another tweak they ought to do at the factory.

Oh boy... get your popcorn ready.

1 month later
#4692 3 years ago
Quoted from ripple:

BSE #141 checking in. Shipped 7/22 and arrived 7/29. Great game, so many laughs. Maybe I can stop obsessively checking this thread now .... doubt it .
[quoted image]

Too close to the fireplace! Switch it with that TOM immediately.

4 weeks later
#5367 3 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

I like that they pulse and such, but wouldnt an orbit of lights be ideal? I think zitt made them for ST right? Maybe we can get him to make a couple 100 sets...lol
https://flic.kr/p/7j2okP

This

1 week later
#5507 3 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Well this sucks. Second play broke the game. Shot the scoop, ball did not eject for a long time. Now I can't start a game, start button fires the scoop VUK and does nothing else.
Anyone have suggestions to diagnose?

Never should have said Wubba Lubba Dub Dub. Now you are in great pain. JK Hope you find a quick fix.

3 weeks later
#6028 3 years ago
Quoted from xfassa:

Alright, I am finally satisfied with the design.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Would you be willing to make another and sell it to me?

#6035 3 years ago
Quoted from xfassa:

I am seriously considering it. Still need to figure a few things out. For now, I get the power from clipping onto the coin door lights. This method makes its simple for those wanting an easy/reversible mod. However, it also means the crystal lights are always on (and it is kind of bush league to connect this way). Honestly, even without the lights, it looks much better than the stock base (IMHO). Although, the blue lights really make it.
Anyway, if anyone is interested, just PM me. I will let you know soon if I decide to make a run of them.

Ok great. You know I’m at the top of the list if you do.

1 week later
#6345 3 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Don't get me wrong it's great that you're doing it. I was simply suggesting that putting it one place that gets updated is more effective than repeating it in multiple posts. But it's not my project and not my issue.

...and no longer your machine. Why are you worried at all if you no longer have the machine?

#6382 3 years ago

#226 being delivered Monday, 10/12.

#6403 3 years ago
Quoted from gac:

#226 being delivered Monday, 10/12.

Couldn't wait until Monday. #226 is home.

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#6405 3 years ago
Quoted from guitarded:

Well, then you better move it off your Wish List!
Congrats. Now unpack that puppy.

Forgot about that! The wishlist... not unpacking it.

#6410 3 years ago

Stupid question while I'm unboxing the game. Where do you load the ball for the"2nd trough"? Thanks.

#6412 3 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

You can either put it in the portal by hand, or just dump them all in the main trough like normal and the game will keep the first one that goes in the portal and launch a new one.

Thank you.

#6440 3 years ago

I'm sure it is posted somewhere in here as I'm sure others have experienced it but I can't locate it. I've found in a couple of games that the bottom right flipper will stop working in the middle of a game and yet the upper flipper still works when the flipper button is pressed. After several presses, the lower flipper might flutter a couple times when pressing the button and then it comes back to normal. Anybody have this happen and is there a known fix? BTW I just got the machine and it is running 8/26/20 code. Thanks in advance.

#6446 3 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

That's gotta be a switch issue.

Ok thanks. What is the suggested fix?

#6448 3 years ago
Quoted from Manic:

The right flipper has an elongated physical switch that can be problematic so look through the key posts... maybe look for the one's with O-din in them as he went to a clear disk that is available from Pinball Life as an alternative (and hopefully problem-free) method.
.

Thanks for your help. Going there now.

#6451 3 years ago
Quoted from Manic:

The right flipper has an elongated physical switch that can be problematic so look through the key posts... maybe look for the one's with O-din in them as he went to a clear disk that is available from Pinball Life as an alternative (and hopefully problem-free) method.
.

Just checked out o-din's post about the clear plastic washer fix. He ended up changing it out though and modifying the switch with another leaf blade or something as apparently it wasn't a 100% fix. I would have thought there was a more definitive fix for this by now. I guess I'll try the clear washer and see what happens.

#6457 3 years ago
Quoted from Manic:

Maybe try cleaning and gapping the right flipper leaf switch first and see if that somehow clears up the issue. Another poster mentioned this and sometimes the simple fixes do wonders.
Good luck! I hate intermittent issues myself.
.

Hi Manic - Just so you know, the machine is two days old. I wouldn't think it needs cleaning. It doesn't make sense to me that the upper flipper would activate and the lower wouldn't. When the flipper button is pushed, doesn't the blade for the bottom flipper have to make contact in order for the blade for the upper flipper to be contacted?

#6458 3 years ago
Quoted from ArcadeBar:

I had a similar issue, the leaf switch for the lower right flipper somehow relaxed a little and the gap between contacts was bigger than the left flipper’s leaf switch gap, just took a flathead and gently pushed it closer together (without touching) and it’s hit fine ever since, easy fix

Thanks for reaching out. Did you experience the upper flipper activating with the lower flipper not? I'm thinking that the upper flipper blade couldn't be touched unless the blade for the lower flipper makes contact, no?

#6462 3 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Test to see which switch controls which flipper (on the right side). It is definitely an issue with the switches not making solid contact. Check to make sure that the switch touching the flipper button (outer or "right" side switch) controls the lower flipper, and the switch on the "inside" (closer to the coin door) controls the upper flipper.

Thanks everyone. I'll try to manually adjust the leaf blades and see what happens. However, I've never heard of the "outer" switch blade (first to make contact) controlling the upper flipper on a machine. If they are designed to activate the lower flipper first, how could it somehow be reversed? Sorry for my lack of understanding.

#6475 3 years ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

Yes the longer leaf against the cabinet should be the bottom flipper afaik. Yes it will close first.
It seems we are considering the possibility upper and lower might be swapped somewhere?, explaining how the bottom flipper might be intermittent, being controlled by the shorter inner switch (not making good second step contact).
If this has happened, adjusting the switches may aleviate the intermittent flipper, but they would then always still have to be staging backwards.

I don't believe they are staged backwards and I dont see how that is possible. I'm just having trouble understanding how the first contact (lower flipper) is an issue if the second contact (upper flipper) is not. My thinking is that the second contact can't be made unless the first contact is made. Hope that makes sense.

#6476 3 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Could be how the wiring was soldered on and if the play tester didn't try to stage flip, wouldn't ever see it. It would be worth checking since you'll have the PF up anyways.
If you don't know, stage flipping is pressing the flipper button just enough to activate the lower flipper while keep the upper flipper deactivated. You are pressing one switch out of the two that are stacked.

Understood and will check it out. Thanks

#6486 3 years ago
Quoted from ArcadeBar:

Awweee gees awww man, you you guys are like really over complicating this thing man... guess what, the upper flipper Can fire fine while the lower one doesn’t, the switches aren’t the other way around and the soldering isn’t messed up, just reduce the gap on the long leaf that the flipper button touches first like I noted in earlier post and you could be playing your game fine and enjoying it. If that doesn’t solve it then report back, but it sounds like you havnt even tried it yet

Hard to try when at work and machine is at home

#6502 3 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I only suggested it because in my game, the wiring to switches were in fact reversed. The first switch fired the upper flipper and the second switch fired the lower flipper. When I went to stage flip, the upper flipper was held up while the lower flipper was down, so it is within reason to suggest that the wiring might be soldered incorrectly. OP needs to see what the actual problem is, like you mentioned. He needs to see what's happening first.

I adjusted the switch yesterday and played a few games and it seemed fine. We'll see if it pops up in the future. I was able to to test the "stage flip" and actually could get the upper flipper to activate without activating the lower flipper which confirmed the need to adjust the leaf for the lower flipper. Man it is such a tiny adjustment.

#6505 3 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

A proper stage flip will fire the lower flipper, but not the upper flipper. Like I mentioned earlier, the outside switch should be your lower flipper, and the inside switch should be the upper flipper. If that is not the case, then your switches are reversed.

I'll double check but I believe it is wired correctly. Before I adjusted the "outside" blade, the "inside" blade could make contact without the "outside" making contact due to the tiny difference in the gap space.

#6512 3 years ago

Show me what you got!

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#6729 3 years ago
Quoted from xfassa:

[quoted image]

Looks great. I wanted in on this from the beginning. What's the price? (I don't see it yet on the pinball life site... and, of course, I just placed an order with them yesterday )

#6730 3 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

Shots to the loop back are registered by the switch on the right. Just make sure your switch activates ok with the ball.

I've noticed the same issue on my machine. What is the fix for this? The switch activates in test but not in gameplay unless the ball is moving very slowly. Thanks.

#6732 3 years ago
Quoted from TinyBlackDog:

- Right flipper button has issues. Top flipper engages first, followed by the bottom one, so I’m guessing the wires are backwards on the dual leafs. The bottom one also doesn’t engage reliably.

I had same issue. Was not wired backwards. The space between the contacts had to be adjusted to make sure the lower flipper fired before (or at same time) the upper flipper and on a consistent basis. I adjusted the gap between the contacts and it has been good since (knock on wood).

#6735 3 years ago
Quoted from xfassa:

Well.....after several games with the new mod installed, I can confirm it will not help improve your scores. I am still a terrible player.
[quoted image]

Maybe you installed it incorrectly

#6737 3 years ago
Quoted from schwarz:

And you're missing a ramp screw.

That alone could cost you 10,000,000 points.

#6817 3 years ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

And on some games metal protector will cause decals to ripple.
I know on other games you have to cut the decal around protector so protector just isn't touching decal at all.
Then double up with plastic over metal.
I don't own this title but have had bad decal experiences on many other games!

I’m having same problem. Going to get a second set of metal protectors I guess

#6934 3 years ago
Quoted from DanQverymuch:

... Aaaand they're sold out again.
Hope you're making more! I need one, too! And I originally gave you the idea of detaching them from the ship mount, as I recall. It's cool, I don't even have my game yet, so I can wait, but I definitely want one!

I installed mine today and it really looks great. The blue leds that light it wash out a bit in the pics but it looks fantastic in person. The installation was very easy too. Should sell about... oh... 750 of these.

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#6939 3 years ago

Hi All- I may have missed it but has anyone come up with a fix for the second switch in the loop to the right of the right ramp not registering on many shots? I've found that the curvature of the end of the guide rail is not sharp enough so the ball only grazes the end of the switch when traveling at normal or high speeds and doesn't activate it. If the ball is traveling slowly around the curve, it will come more in contact with the switch and activate it. The problem is the end of the guide rail is not attached to the playfield with a screw like on many of the other rails... it is attached with a pin that runs through the playfield and is screwed on under the playfield and really can't be moved.
If anyone has a fix for this please post. I've thought about putting a piece of foam or something on the end of the rail to make the ball path more narrow and force the ball back towards the switch. Any thoughts?

#6963 3 years ago
Quoted from FuryosJustin:

We were watching slow mo vid of my game and my mates game around that u turn. If u bend the end back towards the inner part of the uturn (marked with red in pic) and that sends the ball over the switch better[quoted image]

That doesn’t impact the pin/support that goes through the playfield holding the end in place?

1 week later
#7180 3 years ago
Quoted from northerndude:

Ok, cool, fair enough. I was wayyy off

And that’s the wayyyy the news goes....

#7314 3 years ago

Hi All - Are there any recommended kits/connections to connect an external subwoofer to R&M? Anyone care to share pics of their hookup of what they used and how they connected it? Thanks

#7316 3 years ago
Quoted from bent98:

How tall is that topper? I can't fit anything more than 9" tall. . Are there any other aftermarket toppers for this?

Topper is roughly 12 inches tall.

#7324 3 years ago
Quoted from Jherre6:

Yep. Easy peasy. You can even crimp a connection for them if you like. Some people just use alligator clips. I would loop the wire around something inside though in case it gets pulled you aren’t yanking in anything.

But can you have both hooked up at the same time? Assuming so, would you just clip to the connectors on the cabinet sub and run them to the external sub? Or would this cause a problem because of the amp?

#7368 3 years ago
Quoted from melumga:

I received my machine yesterday (the first in Australia to do so, I’m told) and it hasn’t been the best experience. I started feeling anxious when I noticed the top of the box was bulging and had a tear in it (image 1)
Here is my list of day 1 woes:
- Chip in butter cabinet (front left) - image 2.
- Cabinet splits in both front sides - image 3, 4.
- Coat pooling under leg area on front left - image 5.
- Left ramp was not aligned with hole in back wall and dug into it. image 6.
- “Hardware Connection Failed” error at boot up. Power cable to board in backbox unplugged. All good now.
- Right speaker not working. Caused by broken clip that holds the end of the wire in the receiver in the cab. Reassembled the clip. All good.
- Ball save timer screen not displaying all sections of the numbers. Loose cable under the screen. Keeps coming loose every few games.
- Phantom ball locks occurring a lot. The game erroneously thinks a ball has been locked in the horse shoe and then launches a second ball into play. Flippers stop after one of the balls has drained. I’m on latest code - 2020.10.12
- Game reboots when another ball is in play due to a phantom ball lock situation and Gromflomite MB is started.
I've emailed Spooky and am awaiting a response.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Man that stinks. I bet if the leg protectors weren't on the machine the front of the cab would have split completely apart. I'd guess the machine was dropped somewhere along the journey. Damn.

#7525 3 years ago
Quoted from rai:

The legs are bowed inward ever so slightly, no amount of metal spacers at the corner of the cabinet will make the legs not point in at the edges. It’s just not possible the legs are defective. I put big plastic spacers on but the legs are digging in to the spacers it’s just a fact a square cabinet will not work with inward bowed legs. I have not checked under my plastic spacers but they are pressing at the edges hopefully not enough to damage the decal. [quoted image]

Be careful... the plastic spacers will damage the decals as well.

#7537 3 years ago

Ugh. So much for the "improved" clear ship bracket. Didn't just crack, snapped off completely. Guess I'll put the original one back on... pain in the neck to access though.

IMG_3120 (resized).jpgIMG_3120 (resized).jpgIMG_3121 (resized).jpgIMG_3121 (resized).jpg

#7604 3 years ago
Quoted from waynetrane:

My original plastic cracked also yesterday night.
Good thing, i have 2 replacement plastics from pinballlife in stock.
But for that issue, we need def a better solution.
[quoted image]

Unfortunately, mine WAS the pinball life version. I tried to stay ahead of the problem and installed it before the factory version broke. Apparently, the modifications made to the pinball life version do not make a difference.

#7663 3 years ago
Quoted from lookyloo:

In addition to removing the speaker grill, I added this MDF spacer to my subwoofer. It helped move the cone suspension away from the cabinet cutout. Much clearer bass now.
amazon.com link »
I had to drill holes in the spacer and use longer machine screws. I also had to remove some staples in the ground wire to get it over the lip of the spacer to reattach it to the subwoofer.
I still have a small amount of rattle to ferret out. Even with three layers of felt tape, the plastic track at the top of the glass is still making noise on really low notes.

What is the speaker grill you are referring to? I don't see one under my woofer. When I look under the cabinet, there only appears to be a soft, mesh screen in the speaker hole, not a (assumed metal) grill that might cause rattle.

1 week later
#7950 3 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Spent this afternoon solving my R&M audio issues. Solution cost $10 I purchased this spacer from Amazon and bought 4 2" screws to accommodate the spacer/cabinet: amazon.com link »
Installation is a little tedious, here are some highlights:
- The speaker grill is stapled with 32 small staples! Removing them was a PITA
- Needed to move the shaker board over to accommodate the spacer. Simple.
- Decided to move the amp and fasten it to the wood divider with velcro (the amp is ultra light). Might come up with a better solution later. Having easy access to the amp controls from the coin door made a HUGE difference, since I could fiddle with the sound while the game was playing. I realize my location interferes with the coin box cover, but it doesn't matter since it's in my home, not an arcade.
- Dealing with the nuts below the cabinet was a PITA. They kept popping out if the screw wasn't spot-on, which is tough since the spacer holes are 3/4". On a couple, I simple used a washer and hex lock nut. It's rock solid which is all that matters...will likely clean it up later.
R&M went from sounding like a huge fart/turd to sounding awesome (and I don't have anti-rattle tape installed!). The components they use are really nice, however it's clear the speaker/amp combination REQUIRE a spacer like this. Again, now my game isn't convulsing/rattling and I don't have anti-rattle tape! I will likely still install anti-rattle tape to better secure the glass, but it's no longer a bandaid to the audio booming. Glass rattling is now rare, as it should be
Hope this helps!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Great post. I'm curious, though, as to why you put lock nuts on a couple of the screws if they were long enough to attach to the t-nuts. Just extra mounting security?

#7978 3 years ago

Help! Some strange behavior started with my machine tonight. Having a new issue where it seems that the sling shot is not always activating (not because of a dimension) and the right side returns lanes aren't registering. Also, when the ball drains, the game doesn't realize it right away. After a period of time it finally does, goes into ball end mode, and kicks out a ball into the shooter lane but the launch button doesn't always light up and activate. It then will kick a second ball into the shooter lane and then it becomes difficult to push the balls out of the shooter lane and up the ramp until after several tries. Anybody else experience this? Any ideas? I looked for loose connectors under the playfield but didn't see anything loose. Thanks in advance for suggestions.

#7985 3 years ago
Quoted from gac:

Help! Some strange behavior started with my machine tonight. Having a new issue where it seems that the sling shot is not always activating (not because of a dimension) and the right side returns lanes aren't registering. Also, when the ball drains, the game doesn't realize it right away. After a period of time it finally does, goes into ball end mode, and kicks out a ball into the shooter lane but the launch button doesn't always light up and activate. It then will kick a second ball into the shooter lane and then it becomes difficult to push the balls out of the shooter lane and up the ramp until after several tries. Anybody else experience this? Any ideas? I looked for loose connectors under the playfield but didn't see anything loose. Thanks in advance for suggestions.

Anyone?

#8017 3 years ago
Quoted from kermit24:

Sound like a switch matrix issue to me. Put the game into switch test and activate the switches in question to confirm. Check for loose connectors under the playfield or in the backbox.

I went into test mode and confirmed that the right two outlane switches ("A" and "M" switches), the shooter lane switch and the slingshot switch do not activate. I traced the wiring to the connector on the board mounted under the playfield closest to the start button (when the playfield is lowered.) I made sure all connections were tight on the board (and everywhere else for that matter, including the back box). So... not sure what the fix is for this. Could the board be the issue? Again, all help/suggestions are appreciated.

#8273 3 years ago
Quoted from ArcadeBar:

Awesome!! On the bass I also already had a Polk external sub and hooked it up day 1 and it’s amazing. I did play around with the internal sub first and experienced everything talked about in the threads. But if you can swing it hook up an ex sub and never look back! Enjoy watching your friends jaws drop to the bass in this audio package - ex sub $100, total enjoyment and look on your friends faces - priceless((;

Did you just connect wires to the sub connectors and run directly to the external sub? I'm wondering if you did anything other than that. I'm looking to hook up an external sub as well and don't want to mess anything up. Thanks

#8369 3 years ago
Quoted from pinball_ric:

I had the same problem and my solution was to put playfield rubbers on the bottom to keep it from rising up. I posted about it a few pages back.

This absolutely works.

#8437 3 years ago
Quoted from SlightlySnaked:

Should it have come with 5 balls? Mine only came with 4 loose balls. Then the flubble crank ball... put 1 in the REENTRY HOLE, and 3 down the middle. Says looking for balls.

Yup... you need one more. Not sure why it only came with 4. Glad to see you finally got the machine.

#8660 3 years ago
Quoted from RobT:

I have the Pinnovators headphone jack on my R&M. The sound quality through quality headphones is nothing short of amazing. They also have a RCA jack for an external subwoofer, which I am using. I'm not sure if there is a way to cut off the internal sub completely using this system? Maybe by just turning the volume knob on the amplifier down completely?

Do you have a pic of your connection for the external subwoofer?

#8686 3 years ago

So much fun to play... and put mods on too.

IMG_3265 (resized).jpgIMG_3265 (resized).jpgIMG_3266 (resized).jpgIMG_3266 (resized).jpgIMG_3262 (resized).jpgIMG_3262 (resized).jpgIMG_3259 (resized).jpgIMG_3259 (resized).jpg
#8688 3 years ago
Quoted from guitarded:

Nice job gac.
Love the Whirly Dirly Rick and the Tiny Rick.

Thanks guitarded. If I only had a Jerry to go on the Whirly Dirly with Rick!

#8691 3 years ago
Quoted from northerndude:

I really like the crystal mod, the tiny family in front of the house-(great touch) and the pack 'O Meeseeks

Thanks northerndude. The hardest part is figuring out where to put them! But fun nonetheless.

#8770 3 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

Oh, dip! This 'last two digits got wrong' thing was mentioned in the beta and I completely failed to look into it. It shouldn't affect anything other than displaying wrong, and we'll get it fixed up in the next release, whenever that is.

Oh take your time... this Friday will be fine.

#8860 3 years ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

I like that we can talk to each other this way in this thread & it's totally cool. Bitch.

You said it mother f'er!

1 week later
10
#9212 3 years ago

The naked basketball rim was driving me crazy. Couple pics of the fix.

IMG_3281 (resized).jpgIMG_3281 (resized).jpgIMG_3284 (resized).jpgIMG_3284 (resized).jpgIMG_3289 (resized).jpgIMG_3289 (resized).jpg
#9214 3 years ago
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:

Which figurines did you use?

They are mini figures made by Jinx. They are sold in a "blind bag" format so you don't know which figure you are getting until you open the package. They are all from "Series 1" but I don't think a Series 2 was ever made. Besides Rick, Morty, and Summer, the spaceship in the garage is one of the figures offered as well.
If you look at post #8686 (right side of the playfield picture) you can see the remaining figures from the set... Tiny Rick, Sad Meeseeks, and Happy Meeseeks.

#9220 3 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Definitely adds some visual interest, but it should be smaller at the bottom than the top.
[quoted image]

It is slightly smaller on the bottom. Hard to tell in the photos.

#9222 3 years ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

Done well given how small the ring is!

Thanks. I actually cut it from the mesh screen I removed from under the subwoofer.

#9225 3 years ago

The picture that Pin Monk provided makes me want to paint the "box" of the backboard orange now. Lol

#9242 3 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Ah, I thought it was 3d printed. With fabric mesh, you'd have to get out your sewing kit to cinch of up the bottom a bit to mimic an actual new basketball net shape.

I'm good with it as is.

#9393 3 years ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

Doesn't that leave plastic now trying to firmly hold the coil stop from moving?

Not sure how durable that will be. Probably should be a metal part that attaches to the coil stop. Metal could then extend up and attach to plastic in a no pressure point location.

3 weeks later
#9975 3 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

I'd make a cliffy if I had my game to take measurements. I assume Scott could make some up since he has the CAD data.
I had some ship mounts fabbed in fatigue resistant 301 stainless. Posted it as a reply to a R&M facebook group because I didn't want to advertise (and I would think Spooky would want to do the same if they are having to keep replacing them).
[quoted image]

Are you making these available?

#9978 3 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

I can.. I have 5 left from the dozen I made (already got 2 PM's since I posted that).

Price?

2 weeks later
#10417 3 years ago
Quoted from marspinball:

Got my tracking number, shows my game shipped on Monday from Memphis TN and weighs 98 pounds. And should be delivered to San Diego CA on Wednesday.
Does this sound right?

Maybe they just sent you the back box

#10577 3 years ago
Quoted from USMCSGT0331:

Starting to fill my machine with a shitload of Meeseeks, lol. Way too many mods to list, pretty much everything including a Kruzman playfield!
[quoted image]
Custom translite a friend gave me as a gift, my name is Ryan and my wife's nickname is Rose. Thought it was hilarious, so it stays on the machine!
[quoted image]
Dickle Rick (yes, you read that correctly) dangling from the underside of the machine, lol
[quoted image]

I like the topper to the megaseed tree. Did you make that or did you buy it somewhere?

#10580 3 years ago

Definitely does not look like the one pictured on their site. Did they change it?

#10590 3 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Interactive Scoop Lighting now available. Plug and play, mimic any light around the scoop (Start Adventure, Multiball, GI, etc). Plug and play with our custom mount.
https://pinballmods.co/rick-and-morty-pinball-mods/interactive-scoop-lighting[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Is the led in the scoop one color depending on which "mode" to you want it linked to or does it change?

#10593 3 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

It will mimic any light. So you can have it light up the same as whatever the Start Adventure playfield insert has, for example. Or Start Multiball. I tested with it having two different LEDs so you could have Adventure and Multiball but the colors just get muddled or one overrides the other in terms of visible light so decided to just keep it to one LED which you can plugin to anything within about 8" of the scoop. With an extension it could plugin to any light in the game but I doubt anyone wants to light it based on anything outside of that 8" radius.

Gotcha. Thanks for the info.

3 weeks later
#11379 3 years ago
Quoted from Calfdemon:

Ok, that looks great! So I gotta ask... Are the 2 crystals on either side of the topper extra crystals from inside the game? And did you activate their lighting to coincide with the portal topper lighting?
Also, I noticed that your backlighting changes and matches the lighting on the speakers. Tell us about what you did there!
Again, great job!

+1. Did you get the extra crystals from Spooky? Thanks

#11420 3 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

It is, and I thought I had it fixed. There's some loophole in bonus processing somewhere that can mess with the last 2 digits; but it doesn't come up often.

All right, that's it. Time to sell this piece of crap!

#11474 3 years ago
Quoted from cooked71:

It looks complicated, but it’s not, particularly if you’re only replacing one switch. A few of the people that PM’d me hadn’t had a lot of experience working on pins, so I thought I’d go into more detail than less. The instructions that come with the switches are definitely aimed at someone with more experience.

It would be nice if you could get them predrilled to eliminate the chance of screwing them up and not being properly aligned. Since they are numbered for the switch location that they are to be specifically used, you would think they could be made to be more plug and play. Just my .02

#11514 3 years ago

Where can you find the 1/5/21 code update if you wanted to go back to it?

#11516 3 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

My 1/5/21 update was still in my "Downloads" folder (on a Mac). Unless you go out of your way to delete it, I would imagine it might still be on your computer.

For the win! Thanks snaroff.

#11647 3 years ago

For anyone interested, I just listed several figurine mods for Rick and Morty in the marketplace. One listing is for four figures (Rick, Morty, Summer, Tiny Rick). Another listing is for two figures (Rick, Morty). Then there are listings for individual figures (one for Rick and one for Tiny Rick). All of these are brand new items in original packaging. Here are a couple pics of these figures on my machine for reference.

IMG_3491 (1) (resized).jpgIMG_3491 (1) (resized).jpgIMG_3286 (1) (resized).jpgIMG_3286 (1) (resized).jpgIMG_3289 (2) (resized).jpgIMG_3289 (2) (resized).jpgIMG_3489 (1) (resized).jpgIMG_3489 (1) (resized).jpgIMG_3487 (1) (resized).jpgIMG_3487 (1) (resized).jpg
#11657 3 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

FYI, for any one looking, summer is $18 at walmart.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Rick-Morty-Summer-Mini-Figure/184586697
I wish they sold a proportional jerry and beth as well. Any one got a line on some good ones?

Good luck finding these at Walmart or anywhere else. These sold out a long time ago.

#11873 3 years ago
Quoted from Calfdemon:

He is a better human than the rest of us.

How about making a donation to the Human Fund in his name?

2 weeks later
#12195 2 years ago
Quoted from canea:

I also started having this problem - it was fine at first, but now the glass hangs out more on the right, and I have to jam the lockdown bar down. As noted, I think it may have to do with leveling as I just releveled mine (my playfield hanger doesn't rest against the front bar on the left side so it's a battle to get it level vs. the cabinet). Pretty weird though.

I have the exact same issue.

#12233 2 years ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Quick question, how do you update?
Just download file, copy to USB, and put USB in this port and turn game on???[quoted image]

Correct

1 week later
#12401 2 years ago
Quoted from TigerLaw:

People could pay $100 per mode...

Dude, you can pay my $100. Make sure you attach a nice note with the payment. I'm all for supporting Spooky but this seems a bit extreme.

-2
#12403 2 years ago
Quoted from macethetemplar:

If every owner (750) kicked the programer $133.33 every few years thats 100k development salary for said programmer. I spend double that in gas every week.

You, my friend, need a vehicle that gets better gas mileage or a job closer to home. Better yet, take a couple sick days and pay my $133.33.

#12407 2 years ago
Quoted from metallik:

Are you going to sell all your older games as Soren is now selling DLC for them?

No. Keeping the older machines as code was basically complete out of the box. Not buying DLC for them. Today's technology allows for DLC to be easily added to new machines. Who the hell is Soren, btw?

#12411 2 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

And I know for a fact that you would cough up the money as well. The anger shouldn't be directed at the addict...blame the drug dealer!

The dealer isn't trying to sell here... you are the pusher.

#12416 2 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

How could I be the pusher? I don't own the IP or rights to anything related to this game. Another model is for Spooky to open source their code, which would enable 3rd party developers to contribute. Not sure it would work well in this context, but it is a model used in many other tech products (like TV's, operating systems, etc.).

You are the one pushing for paying for content. Spooky is not.

-1
#12418 2 years ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

I hope the next Spooky game is $15k, has $2000 topper & won’t even work unless you pay $1000 a year for a subscription. Just for you.

Now that sounds like a good idea. Maybe make the topper $2,500 though. I'm sure he'll gladly pay it. Maybe a Christmas card for the programmer too...

#12422 2 years ago
Quoted from metallik:

Hey epthegeek, any chance for a option to make mode selection deterministic?
Perhaps set a playfield feature to increment the current "lit" mode, and have the scoop timer briefly show the current lit mode number anytime that playfield feature is hit? You could be nice and make it something simple like a ramp... or slightly evil and make it the slam ring, or really evil and make it the spinner LOL Would add a little strategy, allowing more freedom to setup desirable stacks. Leaving dimensions randomized still mixes things up.
Would also help with troubleshooting, making it easier to setup situations for testing, debugging, etc. I was going to try troubleshooting Schwifty back in the day but the game decided to be a dick and never awarded it when I pulled the glass...

What? For free?

#12439 2 years ago

Question about my pop bumper. I noticed that at various times during game play that my pop bumper does not seem to fire (not due to being in a specific dimension) all the time. Sometimes the ball makes contact with the bumper and it will come off with no action and one second later if the ball hits it, it will fire with plenty of strength. I have made sure that the gap on the switch is ok as it takes only the slightest pressure on the pop bumper skirt to initiate contact. I've attached a couple pics showing the gap between the switch blades.
I also noticed that the lug on the side of the switch has no wire on it. It looks like there is solder on the lug so it makes me think that something was soldered there at one point. Does anyone else have a wire there? Again, I've attached pics showing the lug I'm referring to. Thanks for any and all help.

IMG_3557 (resized).jpgIMG_3557 (resized).jpgIMG_3559 (resized).jpgIMG_3559 (resized).jpgIMG_3555 (resized).jpgIMG_3555 (resized).jpgIMG_3558 (resized).jpgIMG_3558 (resized).jpg
#12618 2 years ago
Quoted from northerndude:

Hey all recently my pop bumper (slam ring) isn't wanting to fire when the ball is coming straight down on it with low force. It has been a real slow progression with this happening as it's getting worse and worse. I can't adjust my switch any more closed as it would start to fire with a bump or flipper hit so that's not the culprit.
It almost seems like the skirt bottom isn't pointing dead straight down into the cup to activate the switch. Maybe its not centred in the cup making it more difficult to activate in that one direction. Also maybe there's just a bit too much friction in the cup from the skirt poker end.
Anyone ever put a tiny dot of lithium grease on a Q tip or something and rubbed it in the cup to create less friction? Anyone had this happen? any thoughts?
I know this is more of a pop bumper thing than a R&M thing, but figured i'd try the masses on this first.

I have experienced this as well. I have not yet tried any of the remedies suggested by others here in regards to the switch contacts or sanding the plastic end of the skirt but I did change the number of washers on the pop bumper unit.
First, I went from three washers on each "arm" to one on each and I think the problem got worse. I then went to two on each side and the pop bumper function has returned to basically normal. I've played several games since and have had maybe one or two instances where the bumper didn't fire. These were soft contact instances and may not have been "failures" at all. If I wasn't purposely paying such close attention, I may not have questioned them at all.

#12631 2 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

The millisecond pulse time needs to be boosted back up in the latest code in settings. That should fix most things

To what setting?

#12709 2 years ago

Has anyone bought either of the custom launch buttons advertised here and made by Super Skill Shot Shop? I like the look but would like to see pics of it installed on a machine. It's a bit on the pricey side so I want to be sure. Thanks all.

1 month later
#13851 2 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

OK, here are the details for the 3D printed hole protector. I'm not sure the Thingiverse link shows the pictures yet...but you guys get the idea from this thread: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4866580
If you're interested in tinkering with the design, you can do that here: https://cad.onshape.com/documents/40d82f709df95a983374ad60/w/dbaf121b6e644678ccd4d89e/e/a8652334283867e38030c7f9.
Make sure that you read my instructions in the Thingiverse if you print it. I'm not responsible for anything that could possibly go wrong from installing it or using it . Also, I would love any feedback about how it holds up for others people.
As for the PMs on selling it...I wasn't planning on selling it, but I could work up some numbers around the material cost, time and shipping. I honestly think shipping would be the most expensive part of it...but I might even be able to get away with just a padded envelope. Give me a few days and I can work up some kind of number that is both worth my time and not insane for the buyers.
Last thing I'll mention. I've got another 3D print solution that I'm testing. I have some friends coming over tonight to put it through the paces. If it works out, I'll drop that one tomorrow and maybe then there would be a reason to sell both parts together. I appreciate all the positive comments. I've never designed something for a pinball machine before and this is pretty cool .

Interested if you decide to make and sell.

3 weeks later
#14368 2 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Have you modded your flippers yet? I noticed about 10x the dimples after the mod.

Which mod? Your mod?

1 month later
#15495 2 years ago

Hi all- having an issue where the pop bumper has gradually stopped working after a bunch of games. A really hard shot to it might activate it but most balls just “thud” off of it. I know the nuts have not fallen off and I’m guessing it’s something with the spoon in the bumper mech. Just curious as to what others have done to remedy this. Thanks

3 weeks later
#15896 2 years ago
Quoted from xfassa:

Understood. I'm happy to help you get the mod to where you need it. We can figure it out and share with the rest of the community. I will try and get a prototype working this weekend. Thanks!

I think I was one of the first to buy this awesome mod. I, however, would be interested in it being tied to the other crystals as compared to being on all the time as well.

2 months later
#16302 2 years ago

I would love just one more mode... vat of acid. Please oh please oh please

2 weeks later
#16525 2 years ago
Quoted from wackenhut:

It is tight as heck, I do not want to break the mechanism to unscrew the nut.

This, and the re-tightening issue, is why I ended up lowering the flippers with the "X spacers" rather than the new bushings.

1 month later
#16877 2 years ago

Portal mods for speaker panel

0E14E050-2B14-4341-A434-7769F4073DA6 (resized).jpeg0E14E050-2B14-4341-A434-7769F4073DA6 (resized).jpeg51C18A16-D581-4FC6-A4E2-A30C1792DABE (resized).jpeg51C18A16-D581-4FC6-A4E2-A30C1792DABE (resized).jpeg88F39836-6A92-4B72-A7C2-0C974BA3793E (resized).jpeg88F39836-6A92-4B72-A7C2-0C974BA3793E (resized).jpegAEA7950D-C38E-428F-B4F0-06B82C26876E (resized).jpegAEA7950D-C38E-428F-B4F0-06B82C26876E (resized).jpeg
#16879 2 years ago
Quoted from newovad:

What if one side was actually their butts from the opposite side of the portal? In one and out the other?

That would be pretty cool.

#16930 2 years ago
Quoted from SR230CC:

Where did you get that backglass?
Edit: found it

Can you share?

3 weeks later
#17069 2 years ago

Liking these new speaker panel, apron, and shooter lane covers.

IMG_4077 (resized).jpgIMG_4077 (resized).jpgIMG_4080 (resized).jpgIMG_4080 (resized).jpg
#17071 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Looks good - where did you buy those?

Thanks. Go to wizardmod.com They are located in Portugal I believe. Shipping was pretty quick. Half the time they sat at customs in NYC 60 miles from me.

#17083 2 years ago
Quoted from northerndude:

Your flippers look cockeyed, left one looks much higher than right

? They aren’t and I don’t see it in the picture either.

2 weeks later
#17213 2 years ago
Quoted from DruTheFu:

pinball life
Grabbed some translucent purple and some regular purple.

That purple (non-translucent) looks darker than what is pictured on the website and compared to what I've bought from them in the past. Looks much darker (and better!)

1 month later
#17375 1 year ago

Look nice. I'm interested. Price in mind?

1 month later
#17651 1 year ago
Quoted from Fulltilt:

Excellent product. I agree removing the speaker mesh. Helps it pop!
[quoted image]

I installed the speaker acrylics and removed the mesh too. Easy installation, even with the magnetic speaker panel cover. The photos don't do these justice. The close up pics were taken using a flash which washes out the color a bit. Even with most of the "portals" covered on mine, I think that they look great. Highly recommend these!

IMG_4227 (resized).jpgIMG_4227 (resized).jpgIMG_4228 (resized).jpgIMG_4228 (resized).jpgIMG_4229 (resized).jpgIMG_4229 (resized).jpgIMG_4230 (resized).jpgIMG_4230 (resized).jpg
#17656 1 year ago
Quoted from DaddyManD:

OMG where are these from and also which art blades do you have?! Awesome!

PM sent

1 month later
#17830 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

This person is not buying the banner I posted here for sale.
So this Rick and Morty banner is still available.
The picture of the Godzilla banner is just so everyone can see the size difference.
[quoted image][quoted image]

PM resent

2 months later
#18520 1 year ago
Quoted from TigerLaw:

Sure, but that is never going to happen due to licensing costs. A Rick & Morty 2, on the other hand, is very viable and Scott said previously he would be enthusiastic to work on such a project one day.

If a Rick & Morty 2 is made, you can take my money now.

2 months later
#18960 1 year ago
Quoted from macethetemplar:

There are specific steps to follow here if your battery dies and you replace it.
https://soldmy.org/pin/rm/battery-replacement/

Should the battery be replaced before it actually dies to avoid this altogether? Just replace every couple years?

2 weeks later
#19094 1 year ago

Why are some of the precision flippers “hollow” and some “closed” topped?

1 month later
#19288 1 year ago
Quoted from fumbleflippers:

I would have rather had no scandal and been happy unboxing it myself one day. But sure, fire away.

Scandal doesn't seem to have affected price negatively. Actually, I think it helped!

14
#19289 1 year ago
Quoted from fumbleflippers:

I would have rather had no scandal and been happy unboxing it myself one day. But sure, fire away.

You must be so disgusted... make a statement and sell me the machine for 5K

3 weeks later
#19458 1 year ago
Quoted from InteractivePinball:

I will have the rivet moved when I finalize the metal ramp enterance.

Definitely interested. Do you have an idea of cost at this point?

#19465 1 year ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

For the mod, I'm definitely of mixed thoughts about it, but I will say this:
Not only is it fairly clever in both thought and execution, it's actually pretty on-brand for Jerry that his switch is hiding behind the women

That’s a great observation about the Jerry switch… lol. Just looking at it though, I wonder if there will be problems with the switch registering as it’s on the right side of the ramp and I think the shots will be on the left side. Does it stick out far enough?

#19471 1 year ago
Quoted from insight75:

Indicated about $160 in his original post.

Thanks... didnt see that. Count me in.

1 month later
#19618 12 months ago

Rubba lubba dub dub! And that's the way the news goes.

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