(Topic ID: 257850)

Official Rick and Morty Club - You are not like other carbon based life forms.

By TheNoTrashCougar

4 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

106 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #256 Rules posted by Eric as of Feb 2020 Posted by epthegeek (4 years ago)

Post #510 R&M Options Posted by Morinack (4 years ago)

Post #589 Useful post for coin door comparison. Posted by NeilMcRae (4 years ago)

Post #637 More code rules - Adventures full lost Posted by epthegeek (4 years ago)

Post #745 Club thread reminder. Posted by TigerLaw (4 years ago)

Post #748 Cards for the game rules and what not. Posted by Coindropper (4 years ago)

Post #751 Darker outline for instruction cards. Posted by Coindropper (4 years ago)

Post #976 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Wireform ball launch and coil adjustment Posted by timmmmyboy (4 years ago)

Post #1006 TECH:Pitch recommendation from Scott. Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (4 years ago)


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#2 4 years ago

Looking forward to this game Scott! Regardless of how long it takes, it's gonna be awesome!

1 month later
#239 4 years ago
Quoted from KingPinGames:

Not at this time. Spooky has decided not to offer mirrors, but the interior art is great.

I hope Spooky or Pinball Life decide to make the side mirrors at some point

#255 4 years ago

I got to put in about 6-8 games on Sunday. The shots are not where you think they are (if you're used to playing Sterns for example). You certainly need to get a feel for them. If you're playing on location for the first time, I would expect the first game you're just getting a feel for the shots. By about the 3rd game, I felt that I could hit most shots if I aimed for them. I'm not a great player.

I was able to start 2-3 modes per game. My best score was about 3 million, which again, is not great. There is enough challenge here, but nothing ever felt unfair or too tight. The left ramp is steep, and can be hit from a trap. It has to be a clean shot. Anything that is not 100% clean will probably reject. For me, I would probably compensate slightly by increasing the right flipper power just a tad.

The hardest shot for me was the garage shot from the upper flipper, but granted, I wasn't focusing on it. I hit it probably 2 or 3 times. The inner loop is earlier than what you would think, and again, has to be 100% to make a successful loop. The problem is that when you hit it clean, it goes screaming around and it's hard to hit again. Definitely not a ST warp ramp where it's in the sweet spot of the flipper (or what we've been conditioned to be the "sweet spot").

I suspect many new players will find it difficult the first few times around and might get frustrated. I would say "seasoned" players will tolerate the newness for a few games and get dialed into the shots. You have to be able to adjust your shot making to really enjoy this game. The shots are wide enough, they're just not where you might be used to.

I'll add that in a home environment, I'm confident that shot making in this game will become much easier with player adjustment.

#386 4 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

with the sub, I see zero need for a shaker.
Granted I also personally hate shakers. They cause unneeded shaking of parts (loosening of crap) and add little to the game.
There are a few games which require them (earthshaker) but most it is just a waste. I would rather add special glass for the cost.

I'm gonna have to disgree with you there! A well implemented shaker adds to the experience. TWD and TNA (as examples) both implement the shaker extremely well. There are some games where it isn't implemented well (XMLE) and shakes just to shake, but there are games where it shines. I'm getting one for my game, and with Eric on code, I think the shaker implementation will be good.

#395 4 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Is butter fragile or something? I’ve never seen it.

It's a clear coat on the cabinet, so as fragile as what you can expect. I would think that anything that you can do with a car's clear coat as far as scuffs and such goes, you can do with a butter cab.

#400 4 years ago
Quoted from Zablon:

Please tell me that isn't pickle flavored.

From the article:
If you're wondering what the Pickle Rick Donut actually tastes like, it has been described as coming "From a reality where pickles taste like lemon crème and white choc…!"

#536 4 years ago
Quoted from kettchxxii:

Guys...[quoted image]

GOLD!!! SpookyCharlie SpookyKT @spookyluke

#597 4 years ago
Quoted from kettchxxii:

Which Mirror blades would be compatible with this cabinet? do we know?

I don't think they've been made yet. If anyone, it would probably be Pinball Life making them up. I'd be in for a set if they make some.

How are you liking the game?

#610 4 years ago
Quoted from kettchxxii:

Game is a ton of fun. Need to make some tweaks yet, but super promising. Didn't see your game on the line when I was there, but from what I saw you'll get it real soon!

I was asked for my add-ons about 2 weeks ago. Hoping to get my final invoice this week! We'll have to stop by for a burger soon in the meantime

#634 4 years ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Thanks for all that! Good to hear you're enjoying it.
I keep hearing from people that either the left ramp is too steep, or the upper flipper shots (namely the power one) just brick a lot.
Spooky, is this not something worth adjusting slightly in the factory, seeing that operators/owners are sharing that they're tweaking games?
Doesn't it make sense to have this game more satisfying and respect to shots? Doesn't that put a game like this in top 10 standing as opposed to being in the top 100 because people stepping up to this game find it frustrating?
I have my deposit in on a game so I want nothing more than for you guys to succeed. But from all of the reactions coming out it seems like this is something that maybe should be addressed or at least considered.
I'm a first-time spooky buyer, and I'm really looking forward to getting my game. Thanks for all the great work

I made a post earlier in this thread in regards to the left ramp and upper flipper shots and it's consistent with what everyone else has been saying.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/6#post-5476144

#711 4 years ago

I vote for "In Bird Culture, This Is Considered A Dick Move - Official Rick and Morty Club"

#714 4 years ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

I think this game is easier to own than TWD due to the terrifying imagery on the cabinet, back glass, and pf. My wife whipped together a couple of stupid faces that I stuck on, and when the kids are up, the rest of it is covered with a big towel.
And just like I plan to do with R&M, I'll play it when they're out, or asleep.
Thankfully the art on R&M isn't nightmare inducing, so I can get away with just leaving it uncovered, and I'll just explain to my young ones that this is a "big daddy" game and they'll play it when they're older. I have to explain that for many other things in life, so pretty standard practice.[quoted image]

I know I have a pic of my (then) 3yr old son playing my TWD somewhere, with the profane Cleland sound package. We just tell them about the realities of the "scary" things, violence, swearing. They learn what's real, what's not, what they can/can't say. My kids will def be playing R&M. I'll turn the swearing to 50% at most, since I want the callouts to come from both "buckets." The family setting is an awesome consideration for those that want it off/on at times of the day. When they inevitably ask what a plumbus is, I'll just tell them it's an imaginary thing that some funny guy made up for the show, and leave it as that.

#854 4 years ago

Really great review and I enjoyed reading. One can give constructive criticism without being an ass. You sir, did a great job at that.

Your thoughts are consistent with my first impressions playing the game on location as well. The game that I played (Hilton's #2 BSE) was tuned pretty well. I also experienced the same launch ball and backspin into the turnaround lane (which we saw a lot of on the stream). I wonder if a piece of rubber at the end of that wireform would stop the backspin that was happening and cleanly feed the upper flipper. Hopefully something that can be tuned out somehow without too much work.

#863 4 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

just as a heads up
2 second adjustment is all that is needed.
Bend end of shooter lane wireform down so ball hits it squarely and drops.
On stream, there was 4 cameras mounted and i could not properly reach in to bend it.

I figured it would easy, but I wonder if the ball hitting the wireform repeatedly would cause it to bend out again. For me, not a big deal to have to take the glass off occasionally to adjust (at home), but it was just something that happened when I played yours.

#935 4 years ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

Since you have self-appointed the role of ambassador, I think it's reasonable for you to demonstrate the simple quick fixes if they are indeed that simple. Don't dismiss folks who are new to this. Just take a quick tour at the start, less than 5 minutes and no fancy camerawork, just to point out "here on the pf is the adjustment you can make for the plunge shot. Over here is the other adjustment for X. If your ball gets hung in this spot a lot, adjust this part. If your spinner seems sticky, check this alignment and then play better. Check out the service menu for other settings, we recommend XYZ".
We shouldn't need a "early" game number pass to get this secret info; lots of folks talking about it and Spooky can differentiate themselves further ahead of Stern by acknowledging the concerns and sharing the info, and you would probably earn some personal goodwill too. Win-Win.

Hilton did this in a previous post. No need for video as he does an adequate job describing the things that may or may not need attention.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/16#post-5487562

He had game #2 off the line. There will undoubtedly adjustments that will need to be made. Even with the ball launch wireform that I had brought a few posts ago, it's not really something that I would consider a major flaw. Just something that needs tweaking. It's pinball, it will need tweaking.

#957 4 years ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

My Mini R&M review:
Disclaimer, I’m not good at writing reviews.
I received my game yesterday. I wanted to say that I am a little embarrassed to admit that i post here quite a bit and think about pinball all the time, but have played less than 50 games of pinball in the last 2 years because of my health issues. Having had a brain tumor near my motor cortex in 2018 and surgery to remove it and now dealing with the tumor that has re grown, radiation treatment, seizures ect it has taken a lot of joy out of playing pinball for me. All that said I played more pinball yesterday after I got R&M set up than i have played in the entire year before I got it.
I spent all day setting my game up yesterday as my mental focus is not what it used to be, so I wanted to be extra careful. First off I will say that the game is Stunningly beautiful in person, I was blown away when I opened the box and saw it.
The shots:
I was worried as heard people talking about the difficulty of some of the shots On this game. This is potentially a big problem for me as not being able to hit shots consistently is one of my biggest frustrations when I play pinball.
I start my first game and immediately loop the ball twice as it comes around the upper flipper (I was like wow did I just do that) then I proceeded to hit the left and right ramps easily, the only shot that I fount difficult was the garage shot from the upper flipper, I was able to make it, but it is a tough shot! My understanding is that it was designed that way. There is something about the layout/geometry of the shots on this game that feels very well laid out to me. The shots are challenging but make able and there are tons of different shots to make. A+ on the playfield layout, again you can tell when you play this game how much thought went into the shot layout.
The light show:
What can I say, it is mind blowing! No exaggeration it is the best light show hands down I have ever seen on a game! (I have owned DI & WOZ ect) I was totally blow away by it, so much so that I sat and watched the game in attract mode for a half hour last night.
The artwork:
I love it, so much detail! The cabinet back box and back glass are beautiful and perfectly fit the theme and art for R&M. The playfield art is so cool I kept finding new Details on it. The purple armor
And coin door look amazing, there is a sparkle in the purple, pictures can not do it Justice!
Toys:
The game may look a little sparse compared to a game like dialed in when it comes to toys, but let me tell you, when you are Playing it you don’t think that all all! The game has so many shots and cool features.. like the slam ring (way cooler than I thought it would be!), Danesi lock, immortality field, portal shot to the garage with subway that kicks out to left out lane, Ricks ship etc.
Sound:
This brings the whole game together the sound is amazing it’s like TNA on steroids! The sound and callouts are absolutely incredible. I want to say that the Factory sound system on this game is the best I’ve heard on any game ever, but since I had a powered Polk subwoofer just sitting there I went ahead and hooked it up and it is intense!
The code:
I love the fact that I am playing as Morty! I have to say that for being early code it is already very good with lots to see and do! I can’t imagine how great it will be by the end of the year! Video clips are awesome, custom call outs are great, modes are fun and objectives are well thought out! (profanity set at 95%) I love the direction this code is going in!
Issues with my game.. there were not many:
The left flipper gap was A bit too much so I used my gap gauge and adjusted it. The shooter lane sometimes hits the end of the shooter ramp and bounces back to the auto plunge, this can be an issue if you are in multi ball and the first ball fails to launch and a 2nd ball ejects into the shooter lane as the plunger doesnt have the power to launch both balls at once, I will try Hilton’s fix on this today. One of the legs was making slight contact with the cabinet which could of damaged the decal, the game comes with the good metal cabinet protectors but the way the leg was formed created a slight clearance problem on only one of the legs (I have had this issue on Stern and JJP games as well) I swapped the leg to the back of the game and all was good. On a side note When I set up a game I bolt the legs on and then slide a piece of paper between the cabinet and the leg to make sure there is no contact.
So really very few issues so far.
Updating Code was a breeze!
This game/theme bridges generations! My daughter is 18 and her and her friends know I just got this game, most of them don’t play pinball, but because it’s Rick and Morty they want to know when they can come over and play it. (I guess pinball nerd Dad is cool after all)

This game will never leave my house until the day I die and then my daughter will enjoy it for many years.
Great job team Spooky you guys knocked it out of the park with this game!!!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thank you for your write up. It's really great to see games getting delivered to homes now. Means mine is one more game to being ready!!

Best wishes to your health. You got this!

1 week later
10
#1447 4 years ago
Quoted from SpookyLuke:

60 games have been finished and boxed up at this point with 20 sitting on the line being played and prepared to box as there always is. I believe we are starting week #11 for the year and we have been a full 10 per week speed for many weeks now. The first couple weeks are obviously always a nightmare and we didn't hit numbers for a bit. Also at the beginning we hold back some to get feedback and make sure we dial them in to the absolute best of our abilities. Elephant in the room question answer is yes. The virus is causing issues in supply but it has not affected our production here so far. Holy crap we have a lot of employees out with the flu though! Some of the early numbers we held also due to direct print cabinet supply. Overall best launch we have had assembly wise.

Oh man...waiting for my email....

giphy.gifgiphy.gif
1 week later
#1634 4 years ago

Is there shaker code implemented yet?

34
#1635 4 years ago

Picked up #59 today!

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#1637 4 years ago
Quoted from BowlingJim:

Was there a option for a smaller bracket for the topper. I know that it won’t fit in my low ceiling basement.

I'm asking KT. I thought there was one available but it might have been someone thinking there was. Mine is about an inch too tall.

I'll add that I didnt have to tweak any of the shots or flippers at all. I can hit the inner orbit cleanly. Any misses are on me. The garage shot is hard. Hit it maybe once. The left ramp is fine. Just need to hit it cleanly. I've only put about 5 or 6 games on it. My 4yr old has been hogging it lol.

#1684 3 years ago
Quoted from trilogybeer:

Just topped 20 million !!![quoted image]

This gives me hope. This game makes TWD feel like a walk in the park, and TNA like a picnic after that walk. IT IS BRUTAL.

#1685 3 years ago

Just installed the shaker and knocker in mine. Neither of then work in test mode. Are they programmed in the latest code? Anyone else get theirs to work?

#1687 3 years ago
Quoted from docquest:

Not programmed yet.

Cool. I didnt think the shaker was programmed yet, but i guess just assumed that the knocker was.

#1690 3 years ago
Quoted from schwts:

Knocker fired on winning high score

Does it work in test?

#1700 3 years ago
Quoted from schwts:

Haven’t tried it in test

Could you try the next time you're at your game? Just want to make sure that my knocker isnt defective for some reason.

#1703 3 years ago
Quoted from trilogybeer:

Try to stack a multiballs with your modes . When I broke 20 million I stacked a multiball with every mode I started . If you can have the portal gun charged and go to another dimension right when you start multiball that helps a bunch also .

That's what I've been trying to do...but trying to and actually doing are 2 completely different things

Still finding the shots on this game.

#1715 3 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

What does this have to do with Germany?

It's COVID, it has to do with everyone in any part of the world right now. It was just an example.

#1720 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

yup! Everyone is on edge and it's understandable. I hope it all gets better soon.
Let's just try to enjoy the little things like the RM Threads that have been mostly upbeat since they started. It's a good escape from all the Corona virus crap...
How' are you enjoying your Rick and Morty???
What's your highest score to date?
can I come over to play it?

I'll be honest, when I was playing it over Friday/Saturday, I was getting really frustrated with the shots, even though I had played it several times before on location and knew exactly what to expect. I was thinking to myself, can I really enjoy this? Then I start getting a better feel for the shots without having to think about it as hard. I still miss quite a bit, but I have adjusted and know where to expect the ball to go. I still wish some shots were smoother. The inner orbit I can hit about 50% of the time. I'm getting MUCH better at the garage shot from the upper flipper. The ramps on both sides are fine. So it's definitely growing on me. I'm excited to see where the code goes over time.

My best is only around 6.5M?? Not great, I know. Like trilogybeer said, you need to get your balls locked, qualify a mode, get to another dimension to have Megaseeds lit, then start the craziness at the scoop to start your mode and MB all at the same time.

#1722 3 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

I notice that adventures that occur on earth start from the garage shot (Pickle Rick), whereas ones that draw on the Space Cruiser/UFO (Purge, Pirates, Whirly, etc) are started at the center UFO shot.
Clever. I wonder if this is intentional or coincidence?

If you recall the Pickle Rick episode, it begins with Morty in the kitchen (I believe) and he hears Rick telling him to come to the garage, hence why that mode start is the garage shot. I believe that is the only mode right now that starts that way.

#1724 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

Just curious, did you make the adjustments to the guide rail on that inner loop shot from the upper ramp? I’m talking about the adjustment where you remove some screws to give that rail a more rounded shape.
I know when I played it at I/O barcade the shots were more difficult but I still made them a few of them over the few games I played there.
But, when I played the one at pinball life (the one that Scott Danesi said he had made adjustments to) that one the shots were very smooth and My wife and I were making both those difficult shots frequently.
It is a little discouraging when your not Making any high scoring games but I think I noticed the game time on a relative higher score game for Rick and Morty was similar to what you might have on any other game. RM just doesn’t score like Deadpool or some other Stern games.
Just my opinion.
Either way, it is an ass kicker that’s for sure.
I wish I could play it more though!

i haven't made any major adjustments yet. I can hit the inner loop and my best is 2 consecutive with a shot into the garage on the 3rd (I'll tell you it was intentional but... ) I think it's more my shot making than the game setup itself. I did take a look to see where the screw was and it seemed like it was opened up all the way. I didn't check the garage shot, but I can hit that successfully enough where I know it's my poor playing vs that game itself.

The game scoring is fine. I'm not so easily fooled by inflated numbers For me, I generally play for progress vs points anyway.

Now that I say that, I'll have to pop off that plastic and see if I can adjust further out more, on both the garage and the inner loop.

#1740 3 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

Take the glass off and hit switches until you hit the replay threshold and you will know.

Had a talk with KingPinGames and sent him a couple pictures of the connectors. He saw right away that one of the wires was loose in the connector. I shoved it in so it made contact and both the knocker and shaker work in test mode. So all is good!

#1741 3 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

1. The key change to the inner loop is remove the plastic, and adjust the bottom screw to close the loop as much as possible (unintuitive change, but it gives the smoothest curve to the inner orbit)
2. Remove the two screws to the guide rail, beyond the bottom screw. Keep them out and replace plastic.
3. Enjoy your orbits and dimension hopping.

I'll give this a shot.

19
#1742 3 years ago

Here's a short video of my 4 yr old getting an Add-a-ball, then a super jackpot shortly after

#1745 3 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

that was awesome!
love the dad laugh when the little punk rocks the super jack like it is no big deal....
hahaha

I'm sure it was completely unintentional, but he definitely knows to go for those upper shots. He impresses me every time I watch him.

#1748 3 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Good playing. Is this before or after the inner orbit adjustment?

This was before.

#1750 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

Dad must be teaching him the skills... he was trapping balls!
Love it!

You know it! No double flipping in this house either

#1753 3 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Even better. Please share results of how you go once adjusting.

I adjusted it a bit after talking to Whysnow I'm not sure if i made it better or worse tbh. I didn't play many games on it after adjusting though so I'll see what happens. I tried to close up the metal guide, but that didn't work as well, so I opened it back up again. I also removed the next screw going up the rail and tried to increase that curve a bit more. I might have kinked it too much. Prior to adjusting, if I could get a clean shot, it would loop around very quickly. I could get 2 loops, then a 3rd whatever shot, because at that point it was going too fast.

I could probably hit it 1/3 of the time, but again, I'm attributing that to my playing skill.

Conversely, on my XMLE, I can hit the Storm shot probably 3/4 of the time, the Rogue shot is probably most similar and I can hit that maybe 2/3 of the time.

#1755 3 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

bust out the slow-mo on the camera and see what impact your adjustments are making. That is the best way for me to better understand what my tweaks are doing.

That was my next step if I feel motivated enough

#1758 3 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

Not advisable to bend the rails; they'll never be the same shape again. The 'quick fix' is to pull out screw #2 and screw #3 after the first front screw. Gives the rail a bit more give so the ball doesn't bounce off as much.

I wasn't "bending" them per se, I was trying to introduce more curve to them, and as a result, might have introduced a little kink. I will remove screw #3 as the next step.

23
#1803 3 years ago

My little guy is at it again!

I was in the middle if a TWD game and heard Rick calling, "Get into the garage Morty!" I told him to shoot the purple arrow at the right orbit and boom. Grabbed my phone immediately! You can hear TWD shooter lane grove in the background.

Plus, he dethroned me as Chief Ball Fondler?! I'm done.
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#1818 3 years ago

The rail is pretty sturdy. It takes more effort than you would think to curve the rail. I've only removed screw #2, and I'm not going to do any more because I can still rip two loops. The ball coming around the second time is so fast that it's really difficult to react and make anything of it. It's like JP2's inner orbit, just comes around so fast.

#1819 3 years ago

To add, the game already did shoot well from the box. I didn't make many adjustments at all, the most notable being the inner loop. It is a difficult shot and this game has a steep learning curve to get a good feel for where they are. I upped my flipper power just a tick, and it took me about 20-30 games to get a solid feel for where all of the shots were. Now it's messing up the feel for my Stern games lol. That's how different it is.

It will frustrate people. It frustrated me in the beginning and I honestly felt like I made a mistake buying it, but now, I'm loving it! And code is still immature. It's only going to get better.

#1820 3 years ago

Some notable dimensions that I've seen

Dead pop bumper - You don't realize how your reaction, or lack thereof, reaction to a pop bumper until you expect it, and it limps right off of the pop and drains you on the left side flipper

Any flipper button flips all flippers - Yep, this killed me too while trying to do a slap save and I didn't realize I was in this dimension. Slapped the right side and just got enough of the ball to tip it over to the left side....but it hits the bottom of the flipper instead and drains...

Just two that I remember right now. I'll try to add more as I see them.

One request for Eric is to give just a few seconds of time to look up at the screen when entering a new dimension. Often times, the game is so frenetic that you don't know what dimension you're in. Call outs would be primo, then you wouldn't have to look at the screen at all.

#1827 3 years ago

Spooky, you need to get on this!!!

#1830 3 years ago
Quoted from docquest:

I had the one where you need to use the right flipper button to trigger the upper left flipper.
Love the TNA one, the callout says something like "welcome to the future" and starts playing the TNA music. The variety of the dimension differences is very cool.

I had gotten the TNA dimension but then drained immediately so didn't get to see it. I'm going to have to focus on dimensions more. I see the Willhelm scream dimension a lot too.

And I think you mean the left flipper button to trigger the upper right flipper I've also seen that one!

#1858 3 years ago

Who cares. Don't feed the troll. Move on.

#1884 3 years ago

Cleaned and waxed my pf yesterday after about 250 games. Still looks like day 1.
Pictures dont do it justice at all and I know 250 games is barely breaking it in.

Also made myself an airball deflector with some lexan I had lying around. On really fast shots, the ball was flying off of the right ramp.

Also had a ball get wedge behind Mr Meeseeks!

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#1894 3 years ago

The new shop is quite literally across the street. On Facebook, they said that they were going into self quarantine.

You can see it here.
https://www.facebook.com/196751743719394/posts/2957824540945420/

"So we were exposed to a confirmed case 11 days ago, and we're self isolating for safety during the 30 day safe at home WI order. On day 4 of no shop work... house odd jobs are running out. All but 1 pinball is back to 100% in the basement. Time to do something else Spooky I love and haven't done in a few years. STAY SAFE OUT THERE EVERYONE!!! Stay happy, healthy, and positive. Spooky Pinball will be back soon in a bigger and better shop with lots of renewed energy."

#1904 3 years ago
Quoted from Borygard:

I've had my hands in and on a few Rick and Morty's now, and I have to whole heartedly say that the game is fantastic!
It's very tough, but it's very fun and very addictive. I can't remember a game I've done the "just one more game" move, more than this one. It hands you your ass, and the only reasonable response is "thank you sir, may I have another?"
There are some adjustments that I recommend making to get shots dialed in on the early games. I'm hopeful that Spooky will take these and other suggestions and make improvements on future builds.
These are in addition to the left loop and left garage shot adjustments that Eric, Hilton, and others have made.
First is the right garage shot. For this, both ramps need to be removed, and the house removed as well. Seven screws total is all, so it's not bad.
With the house removed, the two metal guides in this photo should be adjusted down so the upper lane is as large as possible, and the lower, as small as possible. This significantly helps the garage shot.
[quoted image]
Next is the turn-around loop guides on the right. In addition to the right ramp, remove the plastic covering the guides. Bend all the guide ends inward so they do not stick out beyond the rubbers. Also, I recommend removing the bottom rubber as noted in the photo. This will help with the garage shot and the turn-around loop shot.
[quoted image]
After doing these adjustments to the games I've worked on, the shots are much less clunky.
I've made these suggestions and others directly to Spooky, and I'm hopeful they'll implement them in future builds.
--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

Hey Rob. Is the "kink" in the rail where you circled in the diverter area a kink that you introduced or is it there from the factory? How does the adjustment impact the inner loop?

#1909 3 years ago
Quoted from Borygard:

The "kink" was already there. This photo is before any adjustments were made. I suspect the kink is the result of the guide being hit very hard multiple times from the right.

That's what the adjustment to the metal guides is for. It deflects the ball down the loop more so it misses the diverter.
The adjustment corrects issues with all three shots...
The right garage shot is more reliable because the lane to the garage is open more.
The right loop shot still works fine because the diverter when engaged still connects the metal guide.
The left spinner shot works better because the trajectory of ball is guided away from the diverter, and closer to the curve of the loop.
--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

Thanks Rob! I'll have to dig into my game tonight and see what I can do. My shots flow pretty well as of right now, so I'm a bit hesitant to make any adjustments. I occasionally get the rattle when the ball goes under the house, maybe 10-15% of the time, but I suspect that is more from a bad shot vs the guide. I think I might take off the house and play a few games to see how the ball behaves when that happens.

#1922 3 years ago
Quoted from Borygard:

That guide rail is all one piece, kink and all. The kink no longer exists, again these are before photos.
Let me start over.
The "kink" in the guide was present when I removed the house to reveal the area. It's my theory that the high speed ball coming from the right garage shot, continuously slamming against the far right of the guide caused the kink. It's either that, or it came from Spooky that way.
Either way, balls from the right garage shot would hit the guide, stopping the ball from completing the loop into the garage.
Adjusting the guide so that the upper lane is wider, keeps the ball from hitting the guide and allows the right garage shot to complete the loop as intended.
The same adjustment narrows the lower lane, changing the ball's trajectory from a spinner loop shot, allowing it to completely miss the diverter, and complete the loop back to the upper right flipper, as intended.
--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

I looked under the house in my game and the kink is present on mine as well. The game has around 250 plays, so I doubt it's from the right orbit shot hitting that rail. It almost looks like it was bent to get the screw hole lined up? I didnt take a closer look as I didnt take the glass off, but that's just my speculation. In any case, I usually dont have issues with a clean shot making it to the garage from the orbit. I have my flippers turned up by 2 increments, which helps both the left ramp and the right orbit shots.
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#1926 3 years ago

Can't complain at all

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#1968 3 years ago

Got a ball stuck behind the Meeseeks target again last night. It happens as the ball gets caught up underneath the upper right flipper and the flipper returning down wedges the ball behind the target. Upon closer inspection, moving the rail that is behind the upper flipper down a bit more would keep this from happening or putting a little post there with a 3/8 or 7/16" OD rubber.

anyone else have this happen? The pic below was from the first time it happened.

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#1975 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

That definitely needs a mini post there.

Yeah or move the rail down to close the gap. Either way, I'm not too eager to drill more holes into the pf. I think moving the rail down might have a cleaner look than installing a post. It will all be hidden under the plastic then.

#1979 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Or maybe make a slightly longer flat rail out of a piece of old side rail stock,

That's a great idea. I'll have to see if I can figure something out. I dont have rail stock but I'm sure I can find something.

#1982 3 years ago
Quoted from Borygard:

I've not seen this happen yet. Can you post a photo of the target without the ball stuck?
I'd likely remove and reposition the target slightly to change the angle of the left side. Position it closer and farther back, and close the gap a bit.
--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

The gap seems pretty large that needs something there to block it.

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#1983 3 years ago
Quoted from guitarded:

Fix might be as simple as backing that target with foam?
You could also maybe make a plastic deflector and mount it to the tab that rail mounts to?

Good ideas! I have some weather stripping that I use for beer seal that I could probably use.

#1989 3 years ago

Hmm. Can you check the gap between the rail and the target to see how big it is? Probably the best solution for me would be to either extend the rail or move it down.

#2000 3 years ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

Here is mine, no way a ball can get stuck in there.[quoted image]

The gap on mine looks to be about as big. It's happened to me twice now and the ball was wedged in there tight. Took a considerable amount of effort (more than you would think) to get the ball out.

#2011 3 years ago

I think overall everyone looks to be overly aggressive, even though I generally like Brian Allen's work. Mr. Poopy Butthole would never make that face

#2023 3 years ago

Just a quick cut/paste. It's too much for me personally.

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#2058 3 years ago
Quoted from davisjl1979:

Would be nice to see some more streams from those who have the game. Any takers?

Jack Danger recently got access to a game at his place. I'm sure he will stream it soon.

#2100 3 years ago

Had fun watching the stream last night. When he tilted for the first time, holy shit! I had never heard that call out before LOL!!

Jack's game is tuned very well. He was hitting orbits into garage shots very smoothly, which is what I would expect to happen. I only watched up to a bit after he scored 20+ million then went to do other things but a good time was had.

Still pretty early code from what I understand. Hopefully we can get more modes and multiballs in there and more coding done with the horseshoe lock.

One request I have for Eric is that when you're in MB and a mode stacked, there are not Jackpot callouts. Would be nice to still have Rick give us Jackpot callouts so that we know when we've hit shots.

#2103 3 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

Because of the stacking, this is problematic. In the next update there are light shows that go with the jackpots, and the callout will play - IF the shot doesn’t trigger something else for a stacked adventure first.

Sounds good. Also another thought, I'm not sure if Whirly Dirly ever times out. If it doesn't, for those of us that suck and can't complete modes sometimes, do you have plans to open up the shots a bit more like in Anatomy Park, so that we aren't in mode jail?

#2129 3 years ago
Quoted from dnapac:

I’ve tried adjusting that. But the ball does all in my post without me adjusting anything. It’s just very erratic at launch.

I think it would help if there was a barrier other than the loop of the wireform to stop it. I think that's a big part of the problem. If I had more capability, I would make the wireform curve back down towards the upper flipper, as that is the intended launch path. Or if anything, make a piece with a rubber stop at the end so that it absorbs all of the momentum and stops the spin.

#2136 3 years ago
Quoted from arzoo:

This style ball launch format has been done many times in the past (TOM, DW, etc) and in all cases the ball hits a rubber stop before dropping to the playfield. I'm guessing Spooky decided to go with the simple wireform stop to save on BOM or maybe just for less complexity?

That's why I made the suggestion that I made. On those types of launches, the ball comes to a dead stop, then drops onto a wire form or something else. I'm thinking even a small piece of target foam or similar would be enough to take the spin out of the ball, and kill enough momentum for it to drop without going anywhere else but towards the upper flipper.

#2141 3 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

That or a rubber sleeve would have been ideal. The Bend trick seems to work for about 10 games then it either over shoots or returns back down the lane again. Rather thin wire used on the rail.

I'm going to take a spare post sleeve, cut a slit in it, and wrap it around the inside of the ring when I get home today. Or if anyone else has access to their game that could do this and report back. My only worry is that it will make that hole smaller and not allow enough space for the ball to drop. It won't be the cleanest solution, but if it works...

#2153 3 years ago
Quoted from docquest:

You already got kicked out of the othe R&M thread for stating this. Why start it all over again in this thread?

Hopefully the mods will take a look at this one also.

#2159 3 years ago

7/16" OD rubber is working well so far. Mine has shifted a little bit to the side but it works.

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#2166 3 years ago

I will probably add a second one. I like the idea of cutting it at an angle so that it doesn't pop off when the rubber rotates to the slit and the ball hits it. So far so good. Its had a few dozen ball strikes and it does a good job of deadening the ball to help it drop without much spin.

#2169 3 years ago
Quoted from dnapac:

A tiny bit of hot glue at the seam would work too. This looks like a winner.

I think I will try this if cutting the slits at an angle don't work and it pops off, or if it decides to move too far out to the sides that the ball doesn't hit it anymore.

18
#2174 3 years ago

A Spooky Update from FB:
Almost there... games are ready for the Minions in the new shop and can't wait to get back to them. Work will resume when WI gives the go-ahead. Till then, stay safe and hang in there everyone! We'll keep making a better shop in the meantime.

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#2186 3 years ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

Though I appreciate all of the inventive suggestions, though I would really like to see Spooky make a permanent improvement to the launcher setup. It feels absurd to have people who just dropped 8k+ on a new game needing to modify something so basic just to get decent performance. I’m optimistic that they’ll tweak the design based on the performance of these early batches. We’ll see....

Quoted from razorsedge:

Would have been better to use the tried and tested wireform guage of 3/16", rather than the quite flimsy looking lighter stuff there, imho.
I kinda cringe at the sugestion of bending powdercoated metal, willy nilly for "tune up", or from the ball bending it.... it isn't going to prolong the integrity of the coating
Also, after the first time a piece of metal is bent and the grain is broken, every bend or even flex there after is one step weaker that piece of metal becomes. If it is not strong enough to resist bending at the start... that condition is only going to get worse until finally something breaks.

It's not really a big deal. Definitely not a game breaker. It's more about making it as consistent as possible (predictable) but it certainly plays nearly as good without. If the wireform is adjusted correctly 9.5/10 times it will launch correctly. This is truly a minor tweak to make up for that .5 times where it might get some extra topspin and roll up into the return shot. It's pinball. Things should be predictable to a certain extent, but the opposite is also true. I'm not sweating it and anyone waiting for their games shouldnt either. This is just a "fine tune."

#2192 3 years ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

IF the wire(form) is not substantial enough to maintain its shape or "setting" during gameplay .... well then it will not be consistent, will it. Bending wireform ramps shouldn't be done after powdercoating. They should be made the shape they need to be to work properly, then get the coating. The end.
From someones post earlier, seems the wireform bends from gamplay launches and/or from ball activity during gameplay... if this is accurate then how can there be consistency?
I don't mind tinkering either. I'm a fitter and machinist and tech. But I am not everybody. Also if the wireform is not substantial enough... well that is more than just tinkering, it's replacment.

I'm not going to argue with you. Im just explaining why I'm doing the things I'm doing. I am telling you that 95% of the time, the ball will launch correctly. It's pinball. Every new game needs adjustment.

#2199 3 years ago

razorsedge Agreeing with Hilton that your last few posts are much more constructive and less critical in nature. I agree that the wireform could be a little "beefier" and that I'm not thrilled that it is as thin gauge as it is. I don't have the materials or the ability to construct a new wireform, but this is probably something that I would look to improve. Here's to hoping that Spooky can come up with something that is much more sturdy that can be retrofitted in already made games and used in later builds.

#2204 3 years ago

I'm sure it's just coincidence, but I put up decent scores after I added the second rubber to the end of the wireform. I cut them at an angle as suggested before and though they still shift around, they seem to be doing their job. I didn't have a single ball "walk" into the return shot. The wireform didn't fall apart either

#2206 3 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

Every time I treat a game nice, I find it gives me a new great game.
Wiped down Flash Gordon the other night and BOOM 1.5 mil

That's funny, it does the same for me too. Just a quick wipe or turning the flipper rubbers or something. Unless its TWD. That game is an a**hole...but damn it it's never leaving.

I love Flash Gordon...if you get a lead on a CPR, let me know!

#2226 3 years ago

Not too shabby but could do better I'm sure!

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#2227 3 years ago

5% increments in between

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#2233 3 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

pretty sure cards now come with games?

Yes they do.

#2315 3 years ago

First, thanks to iepinball and Yelobird for posting your modifications to make the shots smoother.

My inner loop can certainly benefit from the adjustments and I may do them. On the positive side, the new holes are hidden and underneath ramps/plastics, so if you make the adjustment and decide to bring it back to factory, you can do so and not have screw holes on the visible playfield. As Yelobird said, some of us are the type that has no problems making tweaks and adjustments and giving that feedback to Spooky. Hopefully in future games, they can make the modifications so all the later builds don't have to worry about it. Also, notice how we are not the "sky is falling, and everything is terrible" owners, and if anything, this pause in manufacturing will give them more time to receive feedback and fine tune for the later run games.

Win/Win in my book.

#2418 3 years ago

Just going to say that I spent the last couple hours making the adjustments to the loop (pulling out the rail to make it more round and add more curvature, which does include drilling new holes) and I gotta say, its 100% worth it. Not only does it open up the loop shot a bit, it also makes the loop really smooth.

If Spooky can do this while assembling future games, that would make new owners very happy. Plus, no visible screw holes. This game is no longer as frustrating anymore. Now it's really just me playing better vs the game rejecting loop shots.

I would certainly recommend current owners doing this.

Thanks again iepinball and @yelobird

#2423 3 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

Yes, but people are pulling the outside rail away, which changes the arc and path of the ball. I’m just saying you should make sure that as the ball rolls on that outer rail it still activates the switch. Software needs the ball to register there in either direction to work right.

As far as, I can tell it still does.

10
#2454 3 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

As a future owner, I like the idea of helping others but it's just killing my enjoyment of this thread. Maybe open a technical thread for RM adjustments?
I want to hear about code updates and things to look forward to in this game.
.... And let's get that evil Morty song back in.

It's not the help that's bad, it's the bickering back and forth between who's right, who's wrong, who should make adjustments, and who shouldnt. I've largely skimmed through the last 100 post and why I haven't been participating as much. I WANT other owners to share their adjustments, so that I can pick and choose what I do to my game to make it shoot better, intent or not. And I WANT to be able to share my adjustments and not worry about being chastised for it.

The game is now more enjoyable for me now that the loop is adjusted. Prior to that, the loop had a very low success rate. I chalked it up to, "welp, that's how it was meant to be." But now that I can make successful loops, it took that frustration away, now that I know everything shoots as it should and it is FUN!

With that said, the bickering should be taken to another thread, not the adjustments. Spooky will choose to do what they feel is right. They have the information in this thread. Owner's, once they receive their game, can choose to make whatever adjustments they need to make. The game now plays as it should in my eyes.

10
#2508 3 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

I am sorry you are not happy with your game.

I'm not sure he has a game. That's kind of part why this thread has been derailed and lack of enjoyment overall from this thread. The owners are saying it's not a big deal, the non-owners are saying otherwise.

You made a GREAT game! The loop is the only thing that requires a bit more fine tuning, but the challenge is there. Honestly, that was the only frustrating thing about the layout, but now that I've worked it out, it plays so well.

And just a suggestion, I would have Spooky keep the tabs there, just not screw them in. If the future owner wants to make the loop more arc-like in shape and "plant" it in, they can do that. What I would be afraid of, is that the loop still won't shoot smoothly even without the screws there, and the needed anchor points are missing to keep the roundness.

I took the screws out of my loop and wasn't 100% happy with the shot flow. The curve wouldn't "stay put." I took the plunge to increase the arc in that loop and drill holes further back, and now it's great.

Once people get their games and start flipping and fine tuning to their likes, I'm hopeful this thread will get back on track.

#2519 3 years ago

Found a ball trap! it must have flown there during multiball.

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#2534 3 years ago

I've found the garage shot is highly dependent on the upper flipper alignment. If the flipper is further off of the rail, the garage shot becomes more difficult. If it's lined just right, it becomes a late shot with a decent sized window. It's not possible to hit the garage from the bottom right flipper. Removing the post won't do much other can open up the ramp to damage.

#2535 3 years ago
Quoted from Zablon:

Could you put a post with a rubber on it right there?

If it continues to become a thing, I'll probably do that. It's only happened once thus far, so I'm going to chalk it up as a fluke, but, it did lead me to check my other games, and each of them did not have that space there, so there's that.

#2542 3 years ago
Quoted from TherealDroopy:

Whoa hold on is "rail gate" over?

I hope so. It was becoming a real drag.

Definitely cant wait to see new adventures and dimensions! As much as I love what's already in there, riding the Whirly Dirly over and over again gets a little stale.

#2597 3 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

If you turn on the 'Tournament Mode' setting, it puts the Adventures (and dimensions as of the next update) into a fixed order so that you can plan and play with purpose and a plan ('even though planning is dumb' - Rick) for maximum benefit.
The way the 'Morty card' thing works (again, starting with the next update) is that when you complete 9 adventures, you get to pick the next one. Eventually, there will be at least one (hopefully more) adventure that you can only get via the selector at the 10th stamp, but you can also choose any other adventure. You can set your card to start with up to 8 full, so you would have to play 1, then the next one would be Morty's choice. There's also a setting for if the 10th adventure is 'lit' immediately after completing the 9th. When you hit the scoop for the 10th stamp, you get an interface (think Metallica Crank it up kinda) where you can pick your adventure.

Loving this. Oooooowweeeeee! I cant wait.

#2636 3 years ago
Quoted from Calfdemon:

As someone who is not on Facebook, I am unable to tell if this is wishful thinking or relaying information posted somewhere else... Are there any facts behind this?

Currently in WI, the Stay-At-Home order is in effect until 5/26/2020, the day after Memorial day. That is the only fact at this point.

#2653 3 years ago
Quoted from Coindork:

Yeah, some dudes game arrived where the screw had come loose on the lock and he threw a fit because he couldn’t figure out how to close the coin door.
It was a really bizarre “Veruca Salt” sort of moment where she was screaming she wanted an Umpa Lumpa.
After that pretty much everybody that received a game (myself included) took pictures of the inside of their coin doors to show their locks were ok. It was pretty hilarious.

Besides that, to go WAY above and beyond what anyone would do, myself included, instead of telling them to go pound sand, Spooky took the game back! Over a screw! Tell me that isn't customer service. They definitely cut loose a customer that wasn't going to be happy with anything ever. I wonder if he's been banned from buying Spooky games? For their sake, one can only hope.

#2673 3 years ago

No spoilers please!!

#2675 3 years ago
Quoted from newovad:

Seems this thread had the same problem last week.

I saw the few posts, and they were fine. Just don't go talking about the entire episode in depth

#2686 3 years ago

I don't think the shots are any more difficult than any other pin honestly. The difference is where the shots are located. They are in unconventional places. You will get frustrated with it, because at times, you won't be able to find your stride. But when you do, the shots flow as well as any other game. With the tweaks to the inner loop, it becomes repeatable and feels really good. Finding it might be tricky, but you get a feel for it, as well as the other shots.

With that said, your wife might find an easy shooter more approachable. There's a reason why games like AFM and MM are always ranked high. You can have an "off" day and still feel like a pinball-god because the shots are relatively easy to make. I held on to SM for that reason. I'd have a tough game on TWD, then move to SM so that I could pad my ego a bit. It's good to have an easy game or two, but I personally like games that play on the harder side. It takes a bit of adjustment, even now, if I play a Stern game, then move to R&M.

13
#2702 3 years ago

If you play pinball as an enthusiast, you'll be able to adjust to the shot placement. If you play as a casual, it will be frustrating and geometry "will be bad".

On Stern games, you can literally hit shots without looking (any multiball in a Stern, ever). Can't do that with R&M. Which is why so many people like Stern games...but it's also why some people deep into the hobby appreciate other games. Most Stern games shoot the same, shots are always in the same spots.

#2793 3 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Thanks! So these would be pretty sweet then, eh?
Is the portal held onto the motor by screws or rivets in the center? Wondering if a multi layer 3d printed version could be made to jazz it up to match the figures...

Everything on the topper is held in by screws, nuts, and bolts. It can all be disassembled piece by piece.

#2796 3 years ago

Very cool! It'll be about 3 weeks I would say from this point.

#2804 3 years ago
Quoted from N80G80:

LINK ME PLEASE!!!!

Yes, same!

#2840 3 years ago
Quoted from guitarded:

This sucks. Karl broadcasts in HD and it is impossible for me to watch his stuff live. I was planning on watching the recap this morning.

I'm sure once official code is published, Karl will do many more streams to explore the new additions to code. I wouldn't worry about it too much.

I'll put in my word for MOAR PLZZZZZ

#2844 3 years ago

Eric/Karl, don't let one person ruin for everyone else. I'm sure the people that got to watch it really enjoyed it. I didn't get the chance to, but I'll happily read posts from people that did, and will happily wait until Karl does it again on published (or beta) code. It's always fun to watch a skilled pinball player. Thanks for what you guys do!

#2853 3 years ago

There's at least one TNA dimension in the current released code. It plays a main TNA track (I believe), has one of the new light shows going on while playing (while lights with red going around like a track), and ramps don't count! Pretty Freaking Awesome! It's probably on one of Karl's streams.

#2857 3 years ago

Keep it coming guys! It sounds amazing! Does Whirly Dirly still need to be completed to get out of that mode? I always had trouble with it. If any balls are locked, I was pretty much screwed. I'm pretty sure I've only finished it one time, the rest I've drained out of it (and sometimes get right back into it with the next adventure)

#2864 3 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

It's a theme integration thing. You're on a ride the loops. If the lock/targets are up, it's not a loop. But the new code does add the loopback as a shot, so there's another option (granted, not necessarily an easy one).

I figured it was a theme integration thing and that was why locked balls didn't qualify. I will have to continue with my current strategy. If whirly dirly starts with a locked ball, I'll just have to get into MB that much sooner!

#2865 3 years ago
Quoted from docquest:

Whirly Dirly is a little easier now because the center horseshoe shot can be also be used to progress through the mode (unless you got locked balls in there).

that's why I mentioned if a ball was locked, I was pretty much screwed lol

#2896 3 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

Yup.
[quoted image]

awwww yeahhhhh......

#2963 3 years ago

I can't wait to start to see people unboxing their machines and posting their initial impressions in the next couple weeks. I would assume that the newest code will be published around the same time. Perfect timing for the next wave a machines hitting homes (locations?). And with Luke saying that the latest machines are shooting very well, it just goes to show that Spooky is paying attention and making sure that new owners are happy! Can't ask for any more than that!

Scott definitely treated us with a uniquely shooting machine. Some combos feel outright satisfying. Left ramp, inner loop, garage to jump into a dimension, right ramp, into the horseshoe or scoop. So good!

#2981 3 years ago
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:

Isn’t a headphone / volume kit part of what Spooky offers for add ons?

No, they offer DBV or no DBV, for the coin door, not headphone jack or external volume controller.

#3033 3 years ago
Quoted from DanQverymuch:

Wow, by the time we get to games in my vicinity (around 300) it's gonna be unbelievable!

You're 100% wrong. Its ALREADY unbelievable. Just keeps getting better and better with every build. You'll see

#3041 3 years ago
Quoted from rai:

I have not played R&M yet, just wanted to ask about the Meeseeks and Mega Seeds are on the same inserts, is it hard to determine what they're lit for or is the color indicative?

Active good Meeseeks are blue. Turning bad they are red/purply. Megaseeds are orange. It is easy to know you are in a different dimension, and therefore, you know to look for megaseeds, which are prominently orange. Megaseeds are not only located on the megaseed inserts...

So to answer your question, they are easy enough in the context of the game to tell which is which.

#3048 3 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

For the first dimension they only appear on shots with dedicated inserts, and not the garage or meeseeks box.
Second dimension it adds the garage and meeseeks box to the options, but still all have dedicated inserts.
From 3rd and on, all the targets and the pop bumper are also included.

Didn't know this. Very nice nuance added to this already awesome game!

Quoted from rai:

Thanks!! this is something that I love about R&M, the color change inserts are so dynamic and add so much texture and nuance to the game.
So Meeseeks are not be active at the same time as Megaseeds?

Yes they can be. You can have a blue/orange flashing insert, or a red&purply/orange flashing insert. One shot will collect them both. Meeseeks are only on their dedicated inserts.

#3051 3 years ago

Thanks for not spoiling the episodes. I'm an early riser and my bedtime is earlier than the show starts so I don't get to watch it until the next day Some might call me Sleepy Gary.

#3055 3 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

when/where can I watch season 4?
we have a free 1 month account on hulu and I dont see it on there...

We've been using Youtube TV, but it's a paid subscription. There might be a free trial though. There usually is.

#3066 3 years ago

I'm not sure it's in the works or not, but a "Replay" callout would be nice. As of now, when you achieve it, you get the knocker and not anything else. It's especially apparent when you get a Replay during Bonus countdown, and all you get is a knocker and it's oddly quite for a few seconds. Thanks Eric!

#3070 3 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

We have a replay animation -- it's just not cleared quite yet. Hold tight!

I knew you were on top of it!

#3143 3 years ago

stevevt I'm not sure if this is meant for "mass" public consumption as it's beta code. epthegeek will chime in I'm sure.

#3160 3 years ago

Another fan alternative. I swapped out the fan on my PS almost right away. Did it using the TNA guide:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/49#post-4370299

Used this fan:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000234W04

#3167 3 years ago
Quoted from JustEverett:

Seeing what Stern is pulling with the new JP topper activated mode, I just have to give a shoutout to Spooky. Eric is killing this code, and Spooky secured a massive amount of original content and asset for this game. Spooky is working hard to deliver additional modes for as long as they can under the license at no additional cost to the buyers. I can't say enough how much I love Spooky as a company for what they are bringing to the pinball industry. You guys rock!

I've been playing beta builds and Eric is completely killing it on code and content. If you want R&M as a theme, you are getting your money's worth, because this game just oozes R&M. Everything goes back to the show in one way or another.

#3180 3 years ago
Quoted from MikeS:

It's posts like this that make me excited for my game. Should be any day now!

You're gonna love it Mike. Spend some time to truly dial it in. Spooky does a great job from the factory, but they won't put 10s-100s of plays on it to be able to make tweaks. That's likely something that you'll have to do. Mine plays so good right now. A bit clunky sometimes on the left ramp down to the upper right flipper, but there are also times where it's really smooth. The inner orbit and garage shot are super smooth on my game. I feel like it's 99.9% perfectly set up right now.

#3240 3 years ago

I was getting airballs and made an airball protector out of extra lexan I had. No issues since.

#3301 3 years ago
Quoted from O-from-DO:

Is the shaker already supported properly with the last code? Have to choose my options today and still think about the best setting. Has anyone ordered the plastic protectors btw? Couldn´t find a pic or description so far. I would guess it´s a pair of clear plastics for the slingshots or is there even more protection? At the moment I would go for the plastics, the RGB speakers, the interior sidegraphics and the target decals.

The shaker is properly implemented on the latest official code. If you wanted to DIY the shaker, installation is very easy. The plastic protectors are a set of clear plastics that go underneath each game plastic. Worth it IMO.

#3321 3 years ago
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:

How awesome is the shaker on this game? I’m not a huuuge shaker guy but if it’s really well integrated and adds a lot to the game I may pop for one.

I think the shaker is implemented well. It definitely goes off at the appropriate times and it is a variable shake, not just at 0% or 100%. I tend to add shakers to games that support them, but there are definitely games where I'm ok without them. I think it's a good add imo.

#3425 3 years ago
Quoted from SpookyLuke:

I believe this playfield as it leaves the factory is the most durable playfield in pinball right now. I truly do! We don't handle playfield protectors at this time but we have talked about it!

A metal ball hitting some clear will make a dimple, especially on a game this fast. This is completely different than what we see from other manufacturers.

#3434 3 years ago
Quoted from MikeS:

ooh boy, she's pretty! Now if my wife would just get back with the mini-van!

Go get it and get on the road! What are you waiting for?!

#3470 3 years ago

I would make one suggestion to new owners. If you got the target decals, I would recommend adding mylar over them to protect the images. The decals do not have a cutout that goes around the rivet, they just stick on top of the target and rivet. Over time, they might start to wear away, and you'll be left with a line over the decal where the ball continuously hits.

I have added mylar to scoop exits and ball drop areas for additional protection. Completely optional obviously.

#3477 3 years ago
Quoted from rai:

can you post a picture of the decals? I can't decide if I need them can't seem to find a good picture.

they're basically the faces of the characters on each of their corresponding targets. On the larger rectangle targets, it's an image of the character, like Noob Noob. For the family, it's their heads.

Quoted from epthegeek:

It's a $10 add on and puts art from the show on plain color targets. Easiest decision ever?

$10 - easiest decision ever.

#3481 3 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

What’s a good removable Mylar to put over the decals and drop points?

I use stuff from Pinball life:
https://www.pinballlife.com/3-mil-clear-mylar-by-the-foot.html

#3540 3 years ago
Quoted from MikeS:

I agree that it doesn't really need it but my preference would be to have less bass in the cabinet speaker and more in the external sub because of how much the cab speaker rattles the cabinet and glass. It feels like a shaker when it's turned up.

The sub does rattle everything quite a bit. I've tuned it so that on Volume 3, it only rattles a little. Any louder than that and it rattles the whole game.

I've thought about building a simple drop-in box for the sub to contain all of that rattle. 1/2" MDF would do the trick.

#3543 3 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

Trick for pf glass rattling.
take a small ziptie, cut off and just use the zip part. Push that thin plastic piece between the plastic glass guide and the cab wood along the side of the cab in a few spots. it will hold tight with friction and give that plastic just a few bumps of snugness to hold the glass. Pretty much eliminates any glass rattle from bass.

Nice trick! I'll have to try this.

#3558 3 years ago

I never got cheeseballs! #Cheeseballgate

#3575 3 years ago

I've thought about throwing a strip of LEDs to illuminate the topper. It would be easy to run it off of the backglass strip. Just never got around to it.

I also replaced the green flashers with natural white. I think the green washed out the colors of the topper too much. The white shows the nuances of the portal much better.

13
#3584 3 years ago

It's all personal preference. I went with a black coin door because all of my other games have black or stainless coin doors and I didn't want to spend the money. Plus I think colored coin doors look tacky.

#3633 3 years ago

Are we really complaining about adding a little bit of mylar to the decals and having to change out the post sleeves? That's like $5 in parts. If it was something major like cabinet splitting, or bubbling clear, yeah, I get it. Maybe coil stops literally falling apart. But guys, it's 5 mins worth of work to do this stuff.

#3637 3 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

it shows that pinside likes to complain... and there is so little to complain about that this has been the current focus
lol!

I guess I just have other things to worry about. I'm getting a JP in a few months and Stern's coil stops are still literally falling apart. I could scream at the top of my lungs that their coil stops should be replaced with good quality stops, but in the big picture, it's just not a big deal. I get a fun game, and if it takes another $15 to make it play well, then so be it.

R&M is an insanely fun game, and if I need to replace the sleeves since they're not the best, then it is what it is. Once you get this game into your house, you forget about the small stuff.

We don't need another coin door situation. That was petty as allgetout.

#3643 3 years ago
Quoted from SpookyLuke:

The cheese balls are a kingpin thing! He actually ordered them for all of his customers! If you are a kingpin customer and you did not receive them that means we uh... forgot

Forgot....right....

#3648 3 years ago
Quoted from MikeS:

Mylar applied and post rubbers replaced. Can't honestly think of anything to complain about on this pin. Its awesome!
[quoted image]

Lookin' good! My man!

#3649 3 years ago
Quoted from Kevlar:

What are these yellow flipper rubbers exactly? they're really bouncy. I have superbands on other machines and they aren't like this so I don't think they're superbands. I want to replace them but make sure i don't accidentally buy the same ones.

They are the PerfectPlay flipper bands that PinballLife sells.
https://www.pinballlife.com/perfectplay-silicone-flipper-rubber-standard-size.html

17
#3737 3 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I never got cheeseballs! #Cheeseballgate

So it appears that we've got some wiseguys at Spooky....

Just a bit of background. I had ordered a couple things from Amazon earlier this week and was expecting it today. They were 2 DVD sized items each shipped separately. My wife was at home and I asked her to bring it in when it gets delivered.

She was expecting both items in a smaller package and thought, wth, why is this small item in this large box???

Well here's why:
20200619_152514 (resized).jpg20200619_152514 (resized).jpg20200619_164345 (resized).jpg20200619_164345 (resized).jpg

You guys are f*cking awesome! Completely made our day! We couldn't stop laughing! Love you Spooky!

#3741 3 years ago

Or if it's @PinballStar, you're awesome too!

19
#3742 3 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

The guy who calls himself guitarded is saying someone is a douche? Hilarious.
Kaneda is helping this community tremendously. Let’s see. He single handily FIXED the loop shot. He got the target decals to be much higher quality. Those are two big ones.

Ok let's be real here. The Pinsiders posting their adjustments on this thread fixed the loop shot. Also, Spooky being who they are, opted to make better decals. Let's give credit where credit is due.

Take the Kaneda fanboyism elsewhere please.

#3752 3 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

What, are these mysterious settings you refer to, but don’t actually explain?

Gamma, Contrast and Brightness

TNA owners made the same adjustments.

#3842 3 years ago

Added a couple short LED strips to the topper. The camera makes the LEDs wash out the artwork, but it doesn't in real life. Now you can see it even when the portal isnt active and in a dark room.

20200621_115723 (resized).jpg20200621_115723 (resized).jpg
#3847 3 years ago
Quoted from Kevlar:

Looks great, hard to tell from the photo but is the Led strip in front of or behind the front plastic of the topper?

It's behind.

1 week later
#4034 3 years ago
Quoted from bemmett:

I did that as well a little but the switches were sitting near perfect I think, the cushion behind the targets was just too thick and seemed to be the cause of them not registering as well.

The target foam that Spooky uses is a little stiff when new. It will eventually soften up over time. It helps to manually squish the foam in a few times to help break them in.

1 week later
#4267 3 years ago
Quoted from SpookyLuke:

And i will still do it.

Troller will always troll. He's like this in every spooky thread. Best not to engage.

#4277 3 years ago
Quoted from Waldo:

Anyone put mirror blades in one yet? Did a search but didn’t see any answers to it yet. Kinda wanna show off the light show a little more. Haven’t found game specific ones.
Also best brand for quieting the fan down. Looks like a few companies sell quiet kits. By far the loudest in my arcade.

This fan works very well and is quiet
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000234W04/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

I am also waiting for a set of mirror blades for this game.

#4291 3 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

The Pinmonk fan kit for spooky is 10.7dB, with better airflow compared to that one, plus the right connector. 20dB is *okay*, but if you're trying to reduce the noise, why only go partway?

Not trying to take any business away from you, just letting others know that there are other options, and that it works quite well where you only have to splice 2 wires together. It's a very quiet fan, and hardly noticeable. I have one in my TNA as well (where the how-to originated from) and it works perfectly.

If people want a PnP kit, then I'm sure they will still happily buy your kit. If they dont mind doing a bit of extra work, then they have another option. It's all good.

12
#4356 3 years ago

Son of a bitch! I put up the most amazing ball 1 and started my extra ball. The game got confused getting into a second Meeseeks MB. It spit out a second ball and the Meeseeks MB music was playing but the screen was still the regular screen. Then it reset on me

In Bird Culture, that is considered a dick move.

Thankfully I took the picture before i started playing the extra ball!

20200713_190854 (resized).jpg20200713_190854 (resized).jpg
1 week later
#4598 3 years ago
Quoted from MikeS:

Question for those with some time on the game.
If you fire a fast shot with the left flipper around the right side of the horseshoe when open (exiting left), where does the ball end up? On mine the lightning fast shots seem to go SDTM. Ive played around a bit with pitch and level but can't seem to avoid it. Are there any adjustments I can make to help with this? I try to be smart about avoiding that shot whenever possible just because it is so deadly on my game. Thanks!

Happens on my game. It's probably normal as theres probably tons of spin introduced into the ball with a lightening fast shot and it whips around the horseshoe. That's why Eric put the short ball saver when a ball goes through the horseshoe to keep cheap SDTM drains from happening.

#4622 3 years ago
Quoted from MikeS:

Thanks Eric for the easy solution. I'll get this turned on and see how it goes!

It really keeps you from getting screwed on a fast solid shot. I would vote for putting it on by default.

#4631 3 years ago

Thanks for pointing that out MikeS now I need to see if mine is doing anything as well.

#4633 3 years ago
Quoted from Coindork:

Did Rick and Morty sample Return of the Jedi?
My wife and son were watching Jedi this morning and noticed this.
The scream the guy makes when he falls into the Sarlac pit at 0.57 in the video appears to be the same scream from the scream dimension.
I walked in the room to find my wife and son rewind it and laughing repeatedly.

That's the Wilhelm scream.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wilhelm_scream

#4652 3 years ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

I didn't see it "solved" as yet?, just an interim "tweak" fix. If it has been adressed I missed it, sorry. The shooter wireform still gives trouble afaik, from going through the posts. It is rather flimsy. I believe some form of simple mod (add-on) *could* address it?. Numerous posts critical of the wireform, and describing issues, have not been made key posts. You have to wade through or search to find them. The "tweaks" do not address all issues. The issue you describe does fit the bill though.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/84#post-5732689

I've maybe had to adjust the launch wireform once after I added the rubber stops, since I posted those pictures some time ago. It's been pretty reliable overall. Though I do agree that the wireform is rather flimsy, it is sufficient.

#4712 3 years ago
Quoted from twista22:

I've checked all the cables and can't find a loose cable. I have noticed that all the boards underneath the playfield have blinking LED lights that match the buzzing sound from the power supply

Reach out to KingPinGames

#4750 3 years ago

No other game has multiple match sequences or multiple MB starts for any given MB. Why would this game be any different? (rhetorical question, I really don't want an answer.)

Honestly, we get interdimensional cable...what more can you ask for?

#4772 3 years ago

I guess I was mistaken. Either way, I'm hitting start before the match sequence finishes most games anyway. It never bothered me in the first place since most games have one match sequence, so it's pretty par for the course.

In that regard, it never hurts to ask.

#4812 3 years ago

I'm still going to make a sealed enclosure for the cabinet sub. I have my game connected to an external sub right now and it sounds so good, but it's almost a waste for the cabinet sub because its essentially not being used. A box for that speaker like TNA would do wonders.

1 week later
#4989 3 years ago
Quoted from Jherre6:

they do. They say to mount on the bottom left, but there are cutouts there. Just want to make sure.

Upper left, not bottom left, but you can mount it anywhere honestly.

1 week later
#5319 3 years ago
Quoted from Sixxin:

Anyone try the Tilt Graphics gameblades? Looks much more colorful than the factory ones.... https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/product-page/rick-morty-gameblades .

I'm kinda still holding out hope for mirror blades...but if no one is going to make them, I might have to consider these.

#5371 3 years ago
Quoted from ArcadeBar:

I just got my machine in today and was going to install the green Britebuttons I got to have them pulsing, but ended up playing it too much! Looks great! Scott had emailed back from PBlife and you have to get the additional power board to do it, but was worth it cause I plan to install some other lights.
Has anyone added a playfield spotlight and if so where? It seems a little dark in the middle and just wondering what has worked for others, not pinstadium just one or maybe two spots. Thanks!

I added 2 spot lights to light up the center of the playfield. One over the right sling and one by the family standup targets, by the blue crystal. I also added an LED strip in the back by the right ramp.

#5373 3 years ago
Quoted from Fytr:

Can you post a couple of pictures? How well did it work?

Yeah, I can get some when I get home. It works quite nicely and doesn't take away from the RGBs because it's not so blindingly bright but adds enough to keep the playfield and ball visible.

#5390 3 years ago

Spotlight pics and a short video. On the left side, I used existing hardware. On the right side, I had an extra 1/2" spacer and mounted it to the middle screw on the slingshot. The pic of the game lit up was during boot. I tried to play the second ball one handed in the vid at the end lol.

20200827_170216 (resized).jpg20200827_170216 (resized).jpg20200827_170224 (resized).jpg20200827_170224 (resized).jpg20200827_170231 (resized).jpg20200827_170231 (resized).jpg20200827_170307 (resized).jpg20200827_170307 (resized).jpg
#5448 3 years ago
Quoted from KingPinGames:

funny enough, I do tech support on the weekends, and after hours for all the games I sell (and even some that I don't).
game is up and running now.

Because KingPin is THE best!

1 week later
10
#5584 3 years ago

Eric probably doesn't know how many modes there will be in the "final" finished code. As been stated numerous times, this game is unique in that it purportedly will follow as more and more seasons are made. Will there be a time when Eric will stop working on the code? Yes, likely, but who knows when that will be. It might be on season 25 when R&M is finally done.

I'm sure Eric will have no issues speaking for himself, but relax. People that went in on this game (sold out within 4 hrs) didn't have much info to go on when buying, so the "informed" part has come and gone. Knowing that Spooky was the manufacturer, Scott on design, and Eric on code was more than enough info for me and 750 others to make a decision.

#5593 3 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

Here's something you could discuss: Anybody have ideas for good clips to use for collecting an extra ball (when you collect it, we already have the robot to serve it) or locking balls in the ship?
I've been over the show a few times looking for stuff and haven't really found the right thing. Found the slam save clip on one of those passes, but still don't have anything for those other two things though.

Damnit, I have to watch R&M *again* for research purposes???

#5646 3 years ago
Quoted from sethington:

We've been noticing an issue where our mode intro videos stop playing (no video) and even attract mode videos have stopped playing. A restart seems to get them going again but only for maybe 20 minutes or so. Pretty sure we're on the latest code. Any ideas?

Quoted from zaphX:

I’ve seen this as well, the video player seems to die entirely. I get black screens where there should be videos and even get static on the high score interdimensional cable screens.
Rebooting fixes.
In fact it is happening right now this second.
[quoted image]

Is it still in attract mode when this happens? Can you start a game? I'm thinking a connection to the monitor vs software, if everything else works.

#5720 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

Yeah I watched it before but just don’t remember the part where they said they would be up to 15 a month. I probably just missed it or I’m old and I forgot
But I hope they do get up to 15 a month! That would be awesome for everyone!
Let’s go Spooky!!!

Quoted from northerndude:

Ooooweeee, 15 a month, too slow!!!!!

I think you guys mean 15 a week, not a month.

2 weeks later
#6030 3 years ago
Quoted from Izzy24:

Thanks! I think so, there are two lights in the circuit that are the same style. One under the crystals by the re entry scoop and the other underneath the right ramp to the right of the house. There’s a pink wire and brown with black striped wire going into two locations on the same board in the back box. The only thing I could try to flip are the red 3 pong connectors circled. The pink wire traces back to the lights that are out for me. The other three prong connection goes to speaker lights, and that stuff appears to be work ongoing properly. I’ve taken out both bulbs that aren’t working and reinstalled, nothing. [quoted image][quoted image]

I have had plenty of IDC connectors where the wire insulation wasnt pierced enough by the connector.

Take a thin screwdriver and really get those wires jammed into the connector. Power off of course. Better yet, replace the connector with a trifurcon style connector.

I wouldnt flip any connections around.

#6031 3 years ago
Quoted from ThePinballCo-op:

I'm wondering something here...
In my R&M, the pop bumper light is supposed to be lit purple at the start of every game, right? Mine is not. It's also not lit at the start of pickle rick.
The pop light works fine every other time but those two. Am I alone? That seems odd....

Check the soldering on the LEDs in the pop bumper. You might have to resolder the wiring to it.

#6040 3 years ago
Quoted from Izzy24:

Thank you! That did it! It’s back and flashing again.

Awesome. I've had to deal with one or two of those. For ones where the wire has come out, I've just replaced them with trifurcon connectors. Much more reliable connection.

#6041 3 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

New build available - should be on the spooky site soon, but for now: https://soldmy.org/rm-gamecode-20200928.pkg
NOTE: These change notes cover all the way back to the 8.26 build, since the 9.11 build was never officially posted at spooky.
Build 2020.09.28:
- Added: 2 New match animations (they cycle)
- Added: Ability to award more than 1 bonus credit in the bonus credit action.
- Added: Setting for optional knocker fire on extra ball collect.
- Added: Experimental new sounds settings that let you adjust Music/Voice/SFX
- Fixed: Get Schwifty FACTS page was missing
- Fixed: Extra ball info in the FACTS was still not right.
- Fixed: If Replay EB was the first EB earned, there was a logic problem that
would eat the next EB lit.
- Fixed: Flooble crank light lock LED wasn't coming on correctly at end of MB
- Fixed: System will silence all audio before starting game to kill cable video
audio if playing.
- Fixed: Crash bug in FACTS if you were in Get Schwifty
- Changed: Re-work of the power ramping for clearing the shooter lane - has a new
setting "Shooter Lane Max" that sets the top end power.
- Changed: Complete rewrite of display handling for attract mode

o-din You got your alternate match sequences! Hopefully you still check up on this thread every once in a while and see the updates.

#6043 3 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Glad to see the space battle escape was fit into the pin somewhere - it’s such a great animation sequence.

I haven't seen the new code yet, but will be downloading it when I get home today! I look forward to each and every build.

#6047 3 years ago
Quoted from NimblePin:

Don’t worry,
I’ll be there in about 20 minutes to update his game for him.
Supposedly there’s a “Jeep ride“ in it for me today...
I hope that’s not Spicoli code for something nefarious.

Awesome! knowing odin, I'm sure you can expect something more than just a quick jeep ride

#6132 3 years ago
Quoted from Fytr:

Ditto on this question. I have a spare set of Stern mirror blades will these fit the R&M cabinet?
Not thrilled with the artblades being offered so was thinking maybe just mirror-blades, or sticking a bunch of these on the inside of the cab (https://www.redbubble.com/shop/planet+stickers)...
TiltGraphics offering looks better, at least some color in there and a bit more going on (https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/product-page/rick-morty-gameblades).

Do a dry fit and let us know! I've been waiting for mirror blades for mine as well.

#6275 3 years ago
Quoted from tarzxvf:

What method are people using for external subs for R&M? Just jumping it off of the sub in the cabinet?

alligator clips off of the cabinet speaker to an external sub. The easiest way to get rattle free bass from the game. If the cabinet had a box like TNA, then it would sound better. Without the box, it rattles the glass too much and the bass isn't clean. I toyed with building an enclosure, but I built it too tall, so I would have to trim it to make it shorter. Just haven't gotten around to modifying the box yet.

#6368 3 years ago
Quoted from gliebig:

Bumps. Any ideas. My retinas are burning.

Have you checked with Spooky CS?

#6461 3 years ago
Quoted from gac:

I'm sure it is posted somewhere in here as I'm sure others have experienced it but I can't locate it. I've found in a couple of games that the bottom right flipper will stop working in the middle of a game and yet the upper flipper still works when the flipper button is pressed. After several presses, the lower flipper might flutter a couple times when pressing the button and then it comes back to normal. Anybody have this happen and is there a known fix? BTW I just got the machine and it is running 8/26/20 code. Thanks in advance.

Test to see which switch controls which flipper (on the right side). It is definitely an issue with the switches not making solid contact. Check to make sure that the switch touching the flipper button (outer or "right" side switch) controls the lower flipper, and the switch on the "inside" (closer to the coin door) controls the upper flipper.

#6472 3 years ago
Quoted from gac:

Thanks everyone. I'll try to manually adjust the leaf blades and see what happens. However, I've never heard of the "outer" switch blade (first to make contact) controlling the upper flipper on a machine. If they are designed to activate the lower flipper first, how could it somehow be reversed? Sorry for my lack of understanding.

Could be how the wiring was soldered on and if the play tester didn't try to stage flip, wouldn't ever see it. It would be worth checking since you'll have the PF up anyways.

If you don't know, stage flipping is pressing the flipper button just enough to activate the lower flipper while keep the upper flipper deactivated. You are pressing one switch out of the two that are stacked.

#6484 3 years ago
Quoted from ArcadeBar:

Awweee gees awww man, you you guys are like really over complicating this thing man... guess what, the upper flipper Can fire fine while the lower one doesn’t, the switches aren’t the other way around and the soldering isn’t messed up, just reduce the gap on the long leaf that the flipper button touches first like I noted in earlier post and you could be playing your game fine and enjoying it. If that doesn’t solve it then report back, but it sounds like you havnt even tried it yet

I only suggested it because in my game, the wiring to switches were in fact reversed. The first switch fired the upper flipper and the second switch fired the lower flipper. When I went to stage flip, the upper flipper was held up while the lower flipper was down, so it is within reason to suggest that the wiring might be soldered incorrectly. OP needs to see what the actual problem is, like you mentioned. He needs to see what's happening first.

#6504 3 years ago
Quoted from gac:

I adjusted the switch yesterday and played a few games and it seemed fine. We'll see if it pops up in the future. I was able to to test the "stage flip" and actually could get the upper flipper to activate without activating the lower flipper which confirmed the need to adjust the leaf for the lower flipper. Man it is such a tiny adjustment.

A proper stage flip will fire the lower flipper, but not the upper flipper. Like I mentioned earlier, the outside switch should be your lower flipper, and the inside switch should be the upper flipper. If that is not the case, then your switches are reversed.

#6606 3 years ago

For those waiting, the great thing about pinball is that the resale value of any machine is generally pretty good. So buy a game that you want, while you are "waiting," enjoy it, and when it's time for your R&M delivery, sell said game or other game in your collection. Counting down the days until your game is ready will make it painful. Don't do that. Enjoy your collection, don't think about how many left or how long it's going to be, and before you know it, you're getting an email from your distro or spooky for your build specs.

1 week later
#6850 3 years ago
Quoted from sandersj:

So my stand up targets on the left side were pretty unresponsive and I try to avoid adjusting leaf switches if I can avoid it. (I can never find my damn leaf switch adjustment tool usually) So I just removed the foam pads behind the switches and they are working as I would expect now. I did a little googling on the foam pads and it appears that they are a common thing but I've never seen one before. I'm assuming that they are there to provide a cushion for the target to keep the target from breaking over time. However, those three targets on the left aren't getting a lot of abuse so I'm guessing removing the foam should not be catastrophic for a HUO machine.
I'm the second owner of my machine and I'm assuming the foam pads were in there from the factory.
Anybody have thoughts or experiences on this topic?

Manually pressing the target foam and "breaking them in" is usually enough to get them soft enough to register. The foam provides cushion to the back of the target to the bracket, and also provides a little spring to bounce the ball back into play.

#6851 3 years ago
Quoted from SpookyCharlie:

Spooky Bug to the office please... !

ooh boy. That's gonna look bad on his annual performance review:

Charlie: So remember when you put that hole through that playfield in that machine that was ready to ship?
Bug: Uhhh...that was a different Bug from a different dimension
Charlie: Damn it....

#6912 3 years ago

TNA is awesome! Scott Danesi is Awesome!

That is all.

#6914 3 years ago
Quoted from Jherre6:

Was thinking about running to an external sub. Would I run the cables directly to it, if it’s powered? Or does the amp need to be bypassed for it?

You can run it from the cabinet speaker directly to an external powered sub. The amp in the cabinet would need to be turned down to eliminate rattle. That is how I have mine set up right now.

#6986 3 years ago

The cabinet speaker needs an enclosure. Unless a speaker is designed to operate in open-air (which a pinball cabinet is essentially open air) the speaker will not sound good. It's been a problem with all pinball machines up to TNA, where an actual enclosure was included. The enclosure will keep the speaker from moving the free air inside of the cabinet, which means no glass rattle unless you really crank it up. And you'll get tighter bass notes.

You can bypass this by turning the amp down, building an enclosure, or adding an external sub. IMO, amp adjustment is personal preference, and I would rather Spooky spend time building, testing, and shipping games, and fiddle around with amp settings.

Side note, you can get a Polk PSW10 for $50 on CL. Cheapest and easiest way to "fix" the bass.

#7028 3 years ago
Quoted from wamonkey:

It’s not list price but who knows as people wait and other games come out, someone with a place in line might be happy to get out what they got in it.
I would think people would just get their deposit back on some sales.
It’s a long time to wait for lots of these games.

This game will be like TNA. People will have bought it because of the hype, flippers, etc. but eventually, the game will end up in owners' hands that really actually want the game and keep it. You might not be getting a 10k+ premium for it, but they will be hard to come by and will at least retain their NIB value. It's taken TNA a few years to get there but games that people are selling are over the $6K NIB price. It's also become evident that the butter cab does not really add to the second-hand market value. For those debating whether or not you want butter, you will probably not see that money (or very little of it) if you decide to sell.

#7192 3 years ago

Is the converse a design flaw (applying the same logic) where no bass can be heard, and you have to add an external subwoofer or a $250 aftermarket speaker kit or $400 board (Pinsound) to get any decent sound of the system? People are complaining about "too much bass" when you can turn it down. Spooky can (maybe should) crank all the settings down, then people would complain "not enough bass"?

-1
#7194 3 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Not complaining about too much bass. The sound system in the game is one of the best I've heard. However, not enough effort was given to venting the sub and/or preventing unwanted vibration in the rest of the cabinet.

i agree and what I've been saying for some time, but at the same time too much bass is causing the glass to vibrate, so the complaint is still there. Adjust the amp and move on, or apply one of several other solutions posted if you want more.

#7290 3 years ago
Quoted from johnnyutah:

It is Stuck on this screen now. Fresh out of box. Playfield lights up, every now and then it will boot to “Hardware Connection Failed” screen.
[quoted image]

Quoted from epthegeek:

Hard drive cable is probably disconnected on the cpu

Try this.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/143#post-5940350

1 week later
#7570 3 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Please let us know. The house looks difficult to remove.

It's not. Just 2 screws IIRC, one on either side of the house. The left ramp has to come off, which is also really easy.

1 week later
11
#7838 3 years ago

Dimensions are about mega seeds. Mega seeds are about score. It will benefit you to visit as many dimensions as you can, as that is the single most effective way to boost your score! So my suggestion if you can only get 1-3 dimensions, work on your dimension game.
download.jpgdownload.jpg

#7941 3 years ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Getting balls jump off the right ramp. Anyone made a Perspex cover for the top?

I've seen this a few times in the last 100 or so posts so I'll send you to my post here. It's a few pictures in, but I made one with lexan (hand cut/drilled). Took a little bit of effort, but it's resolved all airball issues on the right ramp.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/38#post-5561129

#7948 3 years ago
Quoted from rai:

any thought of selling this airball deflector?

likely not since it was hand made and there is no way I would be able to ensure consistency if making more than 1.

1 month later
12
#9384 3 years ago

Merry Rickmas m*ther f*ckers!

Stop being Jerrys and have a good f*cking holiday!

20201225_154741 (resized).jpg20201225_154741 (resized).jpg

1 month later
#10458 3 years ago
Quoted from Jigz:

Apologies if this has already been mentioned. Just noticed this showed up since the last time I was browsing Pinball Life's site:
https://www.pinballlife.com/rick-and-morty-upgraded-shooter-lane-wireform-kit.html

This is new. As much as I appreciate Pinball Life making this "mod", I would have to agree that this should be included with the game, if it is not. With that said, I would swap out my current launch wireform with this one.

#10474 3 years ago

If you were following the game from launch (see what I did there) the ball would sometimes shoot into the "R" shot because the prongs from the shooter wireform would sit too low and miss the loop that was meant to stop the ball and have it drop onto the playfield. The fix at the time was to slightly bend the prongs upwards so that the ball would squarely strike the loop and drop down.

The improved shooter wireform was formed to direct the ball downwards towards the playfield, instead of counting on the loop of the original wireform to do this.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/44#post-5597788

2 months later
#12373 2 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

Interesting. You’re not supposed to be able to start an adventure once multiball is active.

Any way to add some sound effects during the "song" modes like Moonman and Get Schwifty? As much as the music is awesome, not getting the sound effects for the spinner or pop bumper makes it seem a little lifeless. It wouldn't have to be full volume. I'm thinking 50% volume of sound effect to song would be enough to get that audible feedback.

1 month later
#13639 2 years ago

Saw this on my way home yesterday. We need a Tiny Rick mode!

269 (resized).jpeg269 (resized).jpeggiphy.gifgiphy.gif
#13743 2 years ago

In regards to the upgraded shooter lane wireform, can anyone that has installed them provide any feedback on them? Worth it?

3 weeks later
12
#14371 2 years ago
Quoted from DanQverymuch:

Beta? This was the latest code.
I think it's charming when it picks a dimension where you can't progress on the current adventure. That's the kind of crazy shit that makes this game so great! But I can't imagine what could cause game events to reset a game besides sloppy programming.

I think using the phrase "sloppy programming" is a huge disservice to Eric and his code.

Shit happens. It's pinball. What you could do is send a bug report to Eric so that he could try to recreate the issue and fix it. Cliche time: be part of the solution, not the problem.

4 weeks later
#15042 2 years ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

Hopefully joining club soon!
Looking ahead, see these are in stock.
https://www.pinballlife.com/rick-and-morty-upgraded-shooter-lane-wireform-kit.html
Presumably worth getting?

yes

#15124 2 years ago

.

2 weeks later
#15414 2 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Hey Everyone,
For you swapping out your right side stacked flipper switch, do not use the Williams high voltage one (SW-1010A-13), it will not work well, if much at all. That is meant for high current and has a bit too much resistance for the low voltage switch logic used in R&M.
Use this instead:
https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-flipper-leaf-switch-double-contact.html
That is the same flipper switch as what is on TNA. Just cut off the capacitors.
--Scott

Can someone make this a key post for future reference?

Scott - I'm assuming that the Stern single contact switch would be for the left side then?

https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-flipper-leaf-switch-single-contact.html

1 week later
#15612 2 years ago

Thanks for adding the option for SFX during music modes!

#15614 2 years ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

Newbie to R&M question. Can someone explain what this feature actually is or does. Thanks

That's your Magnasave on the right side. Up until now, you couldn't trap a ball on your right flipper, and use the magnasave at the same time because the power draw could blow a fuse, now that setting has been changed to allow you to turn that feature on, but do it at your own risk (with a larger fuse).

#15620 2 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

FYI - I added that setting at Scott's request. I don't know what size fuse he'd recommend, or if he's even comfortable telling other people what size he would recommend.

My general guess would be lowest tolerance before blowing? I'm not sure what size fuse is in there now, but if someone had spare fuses, then try by .5A increments until you get one that doesn't blow? Caveat emptor.

#15625 2 years ago
Quoted from luvthatapex2:

When would you want to use the magnasave with a trapped ball on the right flipper? I guess this would be for a multiball situation?

Yes, for a MB situation when you have a ball trapped on the right side, but want to zap a ball playing in the right outlane area. I've run into this situation several times and wished I could have just pulsed a time or two to pop the ball back into play.

#15654 2 years ago
Quoted from CashMoney:

That’s interesting because I can’t make the inner loop spinner shot to save my life, but I can make the garage shot consistently…. Drives me insane.
I’m thinking the upper flipper angle has something to do with it. I may try messing around with it and see what happens.

The upper flipper should be in line with the rail feeding it. That'll give you the best compromise for both the inner loop and the garage shot. There are some pictures early in this thread for reference.

#15688 2 years ago

Has anyone taken the plunge to use both the right flipper and anti-grav?

1 week later
#15832 2 years ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

Has anyone hooked up an external powered sub like the Polk PSW10 to their R&M yet? If so could you explain how you did it, thanks.

Pretty simple. Just connect speaker wire + to +, - to - from the cabinet speaker to the subwoofer, then adjust levels. You can use alligator clips or solder directly on.

#15834 2 years ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

I was thinking about going that route then I wondered can I hook up a powered sub to a source that is already coming off of a powered amp safely lol. Going to do this today thank you.

I do this on all my modern games: B/W, Stern, JJP, Spooky. They all work great.

For Spooky games in particular, you'll have to adjust settings on your game amp, and your sub amp. Just find what sounds best for you.

#15873 2 years ago
Quoted from rai:

I just received the replacement flipper bushings from Spooky but no instructions. How hard are they to replace?

Have you ever done a flipper rebuild? If not, see Vid's guide.

4 months later
#16929 2 years ago
Quoted from SR230CC:Where did you get that backglass?
Edit: found it

I found an alternate translite, not a backglass. Correct?

3 weeks later
#17072 2 years ago
Quoted from northerndude:

I think this is the standard "go-to" of powered subs to go with
amazon.com link »

Holy crap, these are going for $250+ now? I've got about 7-8 of them, one for each of my games. I didn't pay more than $60 for most of them used. I think I paid $100 for one brand new one. Glad I got them when I did!

#17074 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

I guess these are cheaper in the states. I just ordered one for another one of my machines and it was only 150 bucks. And, I’ll have it by the time I get home tonight! Amazon is ridiculous with their shipping! [quoted image]

Doh! Didn't notice it was a Canada Amazon link. You Canadians...

2 months later
#17560 1 year ago
Quoted from darkryder:

I noticed the topper isn't lit on this game, it only flashes when the disc spins. Does anyone make a topper LED enhancement kit for the factory R&M topper? I'd like the front plastic to be lit constant like other toppers on my pins. Any ideas or what have others done?

See my post here
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/77#post-5708134

You can use any 12V LED strip (got mine on Amazon) and some wiring to tap into the backbox LED strip. Cheap and easy.

1 month later
#17719 1 year ago
Quoted from darkryder:

The lighting is difficult to photograph, it looks better in person. Worth every penny and should have come that way from the factory!
https://pinballmods.co/rick-morty-topper-lighting-pinball-mod?search=rick%20

Just my opinion but $65 is insane for a 12v LED strip that you can get on Amazon for cheap.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HSF65MC

Get some wire if you don't have any

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009VCZ4V8

Cut the strip to size. Solder a "+" tab of your new strip the a "+" tab on the strip in the backbox. Same with the "-" and you're done. And you'll have tons of leds left to light up a dozen other games.

Of course, spend your money the way you want but yeah, that's crazy.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/77#post-5708134

2 months later
#18137 1 year ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

https://soldmy.org/pin/rm
Build 2022.08.02:
- Added: 3 new settings menus to enable/disable FEATURE, POSITIVE and NEGATIVE dimensions
- Added: New check/warning to make sure at least 1 of each dimension is enabled before starting.
- Added: Dimension: 't3h-dub' - (Positive) 2x megaseeds when collected
- Added: Dimension: 'f0n-du1' - (Positive) Targets increase Gromflomite jackpot value
- Added: Dimension: 'cRk-d4t' - (Positive) Flooble crank always awards a seed
- Added: Dimension: 'st4-mpz' - (Positive) Multiply scoring by green stamps
- Added: Dimension: 'nc-17' - (Feature) Just a bunch of cursing
- Added: Dimension: 'fr0-0p' - (Feature) Froopyland! Unlimited ball save
- Added: Dimension: 'Kl4-ck' - (Feature) Switches trigger knocker (YIKES) - Off by default. Requires knocker enabled.
- Added: Dimension: 'b4-llz' - (Negative) Ball Search ?!
- Added: Dimension: 'bl4-nkz' - (Negative) Only one megaseed spawns
- Added: Dimension: 'k4rk-Lnd' - (Negative) Meeseeks spawned while in dimension have 1/2 of the usual 'go bad' time
- Added: New mystery award option - Shake Megaseed Tree - adds up to 3 new seeds.
- Added: New setting to auto-light adventure start on each ball ("ALL")
- Changed: Trimmed the Morty "He sure says bitch a lot" line with junk at the end
- Changed: Cromulons "Hooray" will only add "Look" 1/5 times.

SWEET!!! Thanks Eric!!

#18146 1 year ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

A note about how the Dimensions settings menus work - in case it's not obvious enough.
The dimensions always go: FEATURE first, then POSITIVE, then NEGATIVE and they repeat.
So they go:
1st - FEATURE
2nd - POSITIVE
3rd - NEGATIVE
4th - FEATURE
5th - POSITIVE
6th - NEGATIVE
.. etc ..
So on the FEATURE menu, you have options of "1st or later", "4th or later", "7th or later" and "OFF".
If you set it to "1st or later" - it can show up any time
If you set it to "4th or later" - it can be the SECOND FEATURE dimension or any one after
If you set it to "7th or later" - I can be the THIRD FEATURE dimension or any one after
The same kind of thing applies to the POSITIVE and NEGATIVE, they're just shifted a bit on numbering.
NOTE: The restrictions as to 2nd/3rd only work if you have the "Dimension Difficulty Restrictions" setting turned on! (Default setting)
Hopefully that makes enough sense to everybody else and I'm not too crazy.
You have to have at least 1 dimension from each category enabled or the game won't start (and will warn you as to what's missing).
The "nc-17" dimension requires that swearing be set to ALWAYS or it won't actually enable.
the "Kl4-ck" dimension requires that the knocker be enabled in the machine standard settings or it won't actually enable.

kinda makes sense to me but i'm stupid. If you want completely random dimensions, you need to turn OFF "Dimension Difficulty Restrictions"?

#18154 1 year ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

The knocker dimension doesn’t use the spinner, and it has a tenth of a second delay between possible knocks on any other switch so it can’t get hammered.

Instead of a full switch knocker dimension, maybe it could be like TAF where it's 1 knock on the first ramp, 2 knocks on the 2nd ramp, etc. Max of 3 knocks per ramp. You could call it T4F-N0K, and have white/blue lightning effects.

#18243 1 year ago
Quoted from Palmer:

I think I bricked my game trying to update code. Did the standard usb stick upgrade. When I power cycled (thumb drive removed), I got a message that said update required. So I powered down and inserted game code thumbtack back in to try the update again. That time it just gave me the audits backed up message. Checked the thumb drive. Installation pkg file was no longer there but audit log files were. Reformatted drive, copied pkg back and tried updating but on power up, I still get audits backed up message. If I try powering up with thumb drive out I get black screen with a blinking cursor top left.
Is there an install image I can roll back to? What have others had to do when they've bricked their games?

Anytime you "brick" a game, you just have to try to reinstall the code, whether it's on a new USB drive, or trying a different USB slot, reformatting the drive, etc. The game shouldn't go absolutely dead on you. GL.

#18274 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballM:

Some questions to improve the "dimensions"
We have : FEATURE, POSITIVE and NEGATIVE dimensions.
I feel like I launch dimensions more often in FEATURE (settings are by default)
if i play a negative dimension for example it's because I did something wrong in the game? or just random?
Why did you make 3 categories of dimensions and not just 2?
it's too bad that it's so random dimensions
if i was a developer i would have created an extra menu after an award (not in the setting) allowing you to select your dimension like we did with the last adventure only.
i think something is missing.

In almost all instances in the show, when Rick and Morty head to a different dimension, Morty has no idea which dimension he's going to. Only Rick does, and sometimes even Rick doesn't know.

I think fully randomized dimensions integrates the theme where you (as a Morty) gets pulled into an unknown dimension, is perfect.

#18356 1 year ago
Quoted from northerndude:

#BEATTHIS[quoted image]

How does this even happen? Launch and drain, autosave, then launch and drain again?

3 months later
#18974 1 year ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

I know the code is done regarding new content.
Still maybe small tweaks if they add to fun?
I kind of feel that Meeseeks Mania needs a 'boom' if it can be completed or a way of getting a huge super jackpot?
If this in already in the code, I wasn't aware of it.

It's the Jerry target after you drain to your last ball. If you miss, you get the "Loser" whisper and the associated clip. If you hit it, you see the Jerry clip.

2 months later
#19344 1 year ago
Quoted from ShinyballsOz:

Hey, has anyone else had crazy scores coming off the spinner loop? My RnM is doing really stupid 10xskillshot and crazy 300 combo multiple bonuses on the spinner loop on the first shot etc, and handing out 20million like it's candy.
I've replaced the roll over switch, hardwired the spinner wires, they had a connector, and checked all switches to be fine.
I'm perplexed mMorty... Can anyone help?

Check the spinner in switch test. Sounds like you're getting many extra spinner switches when you shouldn't be. Pound the playfield with your fist in switch test to see if other switches are closing with vibrations.

1 week later
#19414 1 year ago

I'm not exactly 100% sure how to post rule cards, but I'll set these here and you can use them as you please.

R&M cards.pdfR&M cards.pdf
#19417 1 year ago
Quoted from sthippie:

don't forget the megaseeds! most important bit!

Crap! I had megaseeds in the initial mockup but I had to type it over when I switched fonts. Maybe I'll add it in lol. It's more for the visuals for me anyways.

#19468 1 year ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

I’m not a fan of this Jerry ramp mod.

The saving grace is that it's reversible at least. Otherwise, very fitting that it's for the Jerry shot.

2 weeks later
#19534 1 year ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

It's just a common CR2032 "coin" style lithium battery. Pops right out of the holder, new one pops right in. Easy peasy. I had a bunch of spares that I use in my Sega Saturn.

Sounds like there is this style, and one that plugs in like MikeS posted about. Mine is an early run game, and I'm sure i have the plug in style, but need to check before I order them.

3 weeks later
13
#19630 11 months ago

Should I go see a doctor? I should go see a doctor...

20230327_192447 (resized).jpg20230327_192447 (resized).jpg
3 weeks later
#19677 11 months ago
Quoted from LouMatt:

You should download again and try a different USB drive. Looking at old posts, it seems that fixed the issue for some people.

Exactly this. Are you using a PC or a Mac? I thought I recall Mac users having trouble somehow or another. That might be another possible reason.

Reformate your USB to FAT 32 and re-download the software.

#19687 11 months ago
Quoted from gambit3113:

Did the translite get sucked into the portal?

It's a backglass. I wonder if it broke or someone is using it as a wall hanger.

3 weeks later
#19732 10 months ago

Left the club today guys. It was a fun ride for sure, but it was time to pass it on to another collector.
Had a lot of great memories with this game and am going to miss it down the road for sure. Have fun you m*therf*ckers.

#19737 10 months ago
Quoted from wdbthree:

Thanks for passing her on to me FatPanda. Made it back to KC in fantastic shape; already put a dozen+ games on her.
Begrudgingly had to pass on my pre-order slot years ago as I was out of space. Glad to finally remedy the judgement lapse.
Raising a glass towards Madison.
[quoted image]

Love to see it! Glad you were able to make it back safely and that it is all set up. Looks great in your game room!

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