(Topic ID: 257850)

Official Rick and Morty Club - You are not like other carbon based life forms.

By TheNoTrashCougar

4 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

106 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #256 Rules posted by Eric as of Feb 2020 Posted by epthegeek (4 years ago)

Post #510 R&M Options Posted by Morinack (4 years ago)

Post #589 Useful post for coin door comparison. Posted by NeilMcRae (4 years ago)

Post #637 More code rules - Adventures full lost Posted by epthegeek (4 years ago)

Post #745 Club thread reminder. Posted by TigerLaw (4 years ago)

Post #748 Cards for the game rules and what not. Posted by Coindropper (4 years ago)

Post #751 Darker outline for instruction cards. Posted by Coindropper (4 years ago)

Post #976 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Wireform ball launch and coil adjustment Posted by timmmmyboy (4 years ago)

Post #1006 TECH:Pitch recommendation from Scott. Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (4 years ago)


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#585 4 years ago
Quoted from Wheel_Jack:

What location is this?

Lyman's Tavern in DC.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

#586 4 years ago
Quoted from guitarded:

Oh, yeah. But I am in Montana. Not a lot of venues for pinball.

What part of Montana? If you're near Billings, you're welcome to come play mine.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

#799 4 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

honestly, this game is the whole package.
What I like broken down a bit >>
Intergation: Best theme integration since TAF. Lights, sounds, callouts, annimations, music. All combining to bring your IN TO the game. World under glass gets over used, but this game really makes you like you are part of the experience. Very few games capture this.
Geometry and Risk v Reward: The game is on par IMHO with TWD for unique geometry that is challenging but very doable. The game has both flow and control needed and the software compliments it perfectly. The game is exactly what I would expect from Scott D, Eric P, and Bowen combination and we are just seeing the foundation at this stage. I know some of the things that are coming in code and I can hardly wait. I think TWD is the best comparative for 'feel' of this game and TWD is one of my favorite Sterns ever made. TWD you must be able to hit all three drop targets (top 2 are easy but bottom can be challenging). R&M you need to find the ramps (right is easy, but you have to find the left). When you make shots in each game, you need to be ready for both offense with a quick return that requires you to shoot on the fly (flow) or the possibility of a need to gain control. This game keeps you on your toes. It is for sure a players game. TLDR of this point> the game fucking rocks to play and is challenging but rewarding. This is exactly what I look for in modern pinball.
Light show: WOW o WoW! Seriously the best lightshow in all of pinball
Animations: David is by far the best animator in the business. He just gets 'it' for pinball. He has great assests to use with R&M but his layering and understanding of theme integration in a way that the player readily understands what to do is amazing. Most modern games have so much shit going on with the screen that it takes me months to even know where to look and what it is telling me. R&M (and ACNC) are good because David has it figured out. Appealing to the eye and easy on the brain. He seems to understand that the screen is entertainment for onlookers, information gathering for the player, and should also keep you engaged when you have down time (waiting on mode start) in the game.
Callouts: are fucking hilarious! Tons of them. From the show and unique. I can not stress how important real voice actors with actual pinball call outs are for theme integration. This game is not simply a R&M pinball. It is part of the R&M storyline and if anyone has not realized, it has continuations or extensions of the storylines in cool ways. It is like the "what may have been" if the episodes were longer or they revisted a storyline. I dont think any pinball has done that yet?
Sounds: Fantastic. Scott D is great here obviously and his real passion. It shows. This game is a mini dance party and light show combined. I can hardly wait to have my personal one and late night jam out sessions with the wife while sipping on good boubon and in a dimly lit pinball room. Going to be a blast.
Comedy: Pinball has sorely been missing comedy. It died with MM and AFM for some reason. DP had a poor attempt at some 1 liners but they all feel forced. R&M is just plain funny shit and the callouts and timing of those callouts are enough to pull you out of your own head while playing. What good comedy in pinball is supposed to do. Serious , "what did it just say?" moments and LOL times where I am giggling to myself as I walk away and the game just kicked my ass.
Build quality: Best built spooky ever and they keep making improvements. Better mechs. PF is best ever. While some companies are using thinner gauge metal to save a nickel on each build, spooky is going the opposite direction and asking themselves what can they make better. They are even making brand new mechs (in pf trough for staged ball).
1 con: This really only applies to the first batch as I think all aspects will come out of the factory much improved with each successive batch. There are some fine tunings that need to be done for the game to shine. Sadly, many pinheads are not comfortable with this and will be disjointed. They walk in to a bar and that example is not exactly how they think it should ( it may not shoot exactly as intended if not leveled and pitched accurately) be and then think every single game "has a spinner that rejects shots" (Granted, many of these guys are pissed they missed out and also ragging on the game because they want one; they also suck at pinball and like games where they can close their eyes and hit a shot on the first time because it is always in the sweet spot of the flipper). To be clear, these fine tunings are 1/64' to 1/8' adjustments for how a ball guides sits. This game has so much in it, that the physical placements are important. Factory workers are not pinheads and don't think about these things until they are laid out.
Fine tunings I suggest for each owner of the first 40 that were built if you are interested in fine tuning the game:
To be 100% clear, these are all MINOR adjustments. These are normal things I do for every game I touch. These are things that have been fed back to factory and they use this feedback for future games. Spooky is always improving.
I am hesitant to even write these as a few douchebags will fixate on them. Dont be a fucking Jerry. I am sharing these to help those operators that complained till they got and early game, but then need the help to learn how to make adjustments.
-Ensure the right orbit feeds the ball smoothly so it rides down the upper right flipper in direct parallel to the flipper.
-Adjust your upper right flipper angle to ensure it feeds cleanly to the upper spinner orbit and the left garage portal shot (too low and spinner shot is wrong; too high and portal is wrong)
-Ensure the inner spinner orbit guide rails have a little curvature (not a flat spot at entry) that extends the length of the entry for the shot. This will make this shot easier for noobs/complainers as increased curve will change that later movement into vertical and push the ball through the inner orbit. Go ahead and balance and juice your spinner if you think it is slowing your ball. On my route game, the shot is correctly balance and when you hit it clean, then it will come around so quick you have likely missed it. When you hit is somewhat sloppy, it will still make it around. When you bonk it, then you suck and it is not the game.
Another good indicator you have this shot tuned is a right orbit with diverter to spinner should hit the tip of the UR flipper.
-Check the height of your center scoop. This is designed to sit high to protect the pf wood. Basically a built in cliffy. If this is sitting too high then it will increase rejects. Lower it or bend your scoop hood to tune yours as you see fit.
To be 100% clear, these are all MINOR adjustments. These are normal things I do for every game I touch. My list for TWD was 2x as long and that is my favorite Stern. Again, don't be a Jerry.
This game fucking rocks!

Absolutely perfectly stated.. Theme integration is huge for me, and already this game knocks it so far out of the park that the ball is now a Martian.

I would add to fine tuning games out of box...

-Adjust spinner so it rests as close to perpendicular to the playfield as possible.

-Adjust flipper EOS switches so that they open at the absolute extreme End of Stroke.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

#1199 4 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

First time Scott is ever dropping a quarter in this game. Wanted to capture the moment.[quoted image]

You forgot to tell him it's more than a quarter to play.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

11
#1252 4 years ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

Does anyone in the greater SF Bay Area or greater Sacramento region have R&M incoming soon?

Ready for play at Alamo Drafthouse SF...

87964134_10216345939381917_375770876320153600_o.jpg87964134_10216345939381917_375770876320153600_o.jpg

Alamo Drafthouse Cinema New Mission
2550 Mission St, San Francisco, CA 94110
(415) 549-5959
https://maps.app.goo.gl/CLAaNjZtrtnmHKaP6

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

16
#1326 4 years ago
Quoted from bangerjay:

So much work to even type all that, let alone the action required behind each

My thought exactly! I can't imagine the number of hours Eric has put into this in the past couple of months!

The entire Spooky team is kicking ass on this game!

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

16
#1386 4 years ago
Quoted from Coolpinballdino:

Got to play some Rick And Morty tonight on location was pretty excited to play it.[quoted image]

Dooood! Tell them to take the shipping foam off of the bottom of the UFO.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

3 weeks later
24
#1895 4 years ago

I've had my hands in and on a few Rick and Morty's now, and I have to whole heartedly say that the game is fantastic!

It's very tough, but it's very fun and very addictive. I can't remember a game I've done the "just one more game" move, more than this one. It hands you your ass, and the only reasonable response is "thank you sir, may I have another?"

There are some adjustments that I recommend making to get shots dialed in on the early games. I'm hopeful that Spooky will take these and other suggestions and make improvements on future builds.

These are in addition to the left loop and left garage shot adjustments that Eric, Hilton, and others have made.

First is the right garage shot. For this, both ramps need to be removed, and the house removed as well. Seven screws total is all, so it's not bad.

With the house removed, the two metal guides in this photo should be adjusted down so the upper lane is as large as possible, and the lower, as small as possible. This significantly helps the garage shot.

20200329_123936.jpg20200329_123936.jpg

Next is the turn-around loop guides on the right. In addition to the right ramp, remove the plastic covering the guides. Bend all the guide ends inward so they do not stick out beyond the rubbers. Also, I recommend removing the bottom rubber as noted in the photo. This will help with the garage shot and the turn-around loop shot.

20200329_124254.jpg20200329_124254.jpg

After doing these adjustments to the games I've worked on, the shots are much less clunky.

I've made these suggestions and others directly to Spooky, and I'm hopeful they'll implement them in future builds.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

#1900 4 years ago
Quoted from dnapac:

I can rip the spinner shot regularly, but there are still times (30%) that it rattles at the top and trickles down back to the entrance. Then I hear the diverter activate. I have the most recent code. Is this the diverter blocking it, or is the guide blocking it?

I have definitely seen what I believe is, a very fast spinner shot getting hit by the diverter, and sending it back down. You can hear the diverter engage, the ball come back, and the diverter disengage. I have not investigated with the house removed to actually see what's happening though. I also have not yet changed the setting to not engage the diverter for that shot. Which would take care of this issue if my theory is correct.

I meant to add to my previous post, leveling this game properly is extremely important. The way the U-turn can whip the balls back at you instantly, can cause an immediate drain right down the middle if the game is not perfectly level.

It would be great if there was a ball save option for an immediate (instant) drain. After the U-turn optos see the ball, and then milliseconds later the game sees the ball drain without seeing any other switches.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

#1901 4 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

The diverted closing is intended to help smooth the shot, it’s a setting if you want to try turning it off.

I think the guide adjustment I mention above will help smooth the shot.

With it open more at the bottom like I've seen with most games, I think the ball hits the back rail on certain shots and makes it not so smooth. Making the adjustment, guides the ball around the curve a bit tighter, and doesn't allow it to hit the back wall so soon.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

#1908 4 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Hey Rob. Is the "kink" in the rail where you circled in the diverter area a kink that you introduced or is it there from the factory? How does the adjustment impact the inner loop?

The "kink" was already there. This photo is before any adjustments were made. I suspect the kink is the result of the guide being hit very hard multiple times from the right.

Quoted from pinheadpierre:

Is it possible for the ball to hit those diverter fasteners??

That's what the adjustment to the metal guides is for. It deflects the ball down the loop more so it misses the diverter.

The adjustment corrects issues with all three shots...

The right garage shot is more reliable because the lane to the garage is open more.

The right loop shot still works fine because the diverter when engaged still connects the metal guide.

The left spinner shot works better because the trajectory of ball is guided away from the diverter, and closer to the curve of the loop.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

#1913 4 years ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

It must vary from game to game, my orbit and spinner shot are smooth and I have never made any adjustments to them.

Like most everything in pinball, each game is different. All of the games I've worked on have benefitted from these adjustments. If your game is not experiencing issues, there's certainly no need to make any adjustments.

Quoted from jonesjb:

I wonder if there is a way to prevent this? I'm guessing it may affect the inner orbit shot smoothness after time.

I'm confused by this. That is the purpose of these adjustments. Bending those guides, making the upper lane wider, prevents the ball from hitting the guide, interfering with the shot, and makes the shots much smoother.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

#1921 4 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Perhaps I misunderstood. I read your recommendation to lower the lower guiderail, which makes sense. I was referring to the kink (in the blue rectangle), my interpretation was that this was already there/bent like that from shots to the right orbit. My guess is that the kink can't be good for inner orbits, irrespective of how the guiderail is orientated.
Or are you recommending that having the guiderail set like that would avoid the kink?[quoted image]

That guide rail is all one piece, kink and all. The kink no longer exists, again these are before photos.

Let me start over.

The "kink" in the guide was present when I removed the house to reveal the area. It's my theory that the high speed ball coming from the right garage shot, continuously slamming against the far right of the guide caused the kink. It's either that, or it came from Spooky that way.

Either way, balls from the right garage shot would hit the guide, stopping the ball from completing the loop into the garage.

Adjusting the guide so that the upper lane is wider, keeps the ball from hitting the guide and allows the right garage shot to complete the loop as intended.

The same adjustment narrows the lower lane, changing the ball's trajectory from a spinner loop shot, allowing it to completely miss the diverter, and complete the loop back to the upper right flipper, as intended.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

#1969 4 years ago
Quoted from tbutler6:

I send an email to the Spooky team asking if they had a Alice Topper available for sale.
Also asked if these tweaks were being made on the line...Will update as well if i hear anything.

I have an ACNC topper available if Spooky does not. Email me if needed. [email protected]

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

#1980 4 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Got a ball stuck behind the Meeseeks target again last night. It happens as the ball gets caught up underneath the upper right flipper and the flipper returning down wedges the ball behind the target. Upon closer inspection, moving the rail that is behind the upper flipper down a bit more would keep this from happening or putting a little post there with a 3/8 or 7/16" OD rubber.
anyone else have this happen? The pic below was from the first time it happened.[quoted image][quoted image]

I've not seen this happen yet. Can you post a photo of the target without the ball stuck?

I'd likely remove and reposition the target slightly to change the angle of the left side. Position it closer and farther back, and close the gap a bit.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

#1985 4 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

The gap seems pretty large that needs something there to block it.[quoted image]

Plenty of room there to move the target to the left slightly. Won't take much, no need to reengineer things when a solution is two screws away.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

2 months later
#3165 3 years ago
Quoted from andrewket:

#72 in the house...
I had to adjust the bottom flippers a bit; they were both a bit high. That's a PITA. Very busy under the playfield.
So far the game is brutal, but hilarious. The garage shot is possible, but very difficult.
[quoted image]

I think there's a reason the flippers are a bit higher than you might expect on R&M from the factory. From the factory you can backhand the right ramp from the right flipper.

If you adjust the flippers to where you'd expect, you won't be able to do that, and it will make backhanding the Flooble Crank harder as well.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

#3186 3 years ago

I've got pairs of Mr. Meeseeks, to mount near the Mr. Meeseeks Box available on my site now...

http://LockWhenLit.com/Products.htm

They're $20 for a pair. They are ornaments, mounted to a thin plastic washer, that easily mount to existing posts near the Meeseeks Box. Easily installed and removed with no modifications needed to the game.

For those that would like to make their own, the box of 12 Meeseeks are available from Amazon...

https://www.amazon.com/Rick-Morty-Christmas-Decorations-Meeseeks/dp/B07JN5KSQX

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

Meeseeks.jpgMeeseeks.jpg
#3352 3 years ago

Adding washers to lower the scoop isn't necessary in most cases. Simply bending the scoop hood down slightly will resolve most rejects.

That's essentially what you're doing by adding washers. You're bringing the scoop hood down.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

#3357 3 years ago
Quoted from adamross:

Silly question, but are there any instructions on how to update code on this game? Can't seem to find it on the website.

Simply download the update from Spooky's Support page. Place the .pkg update on a freshly formatted USB drive, and stick it in an open USB port on the R&M CPU (right bottom of head). You don't even need to turn the game off before plugging the USB drive in. The game while on, will see the update on the USB drive and start the update. Turn the game off when the game tells you to, and remove the USB drive.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

1 week later
35
#3627 3 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Any update on the target stickers or post rubbers being enhanced? I’ve read others having issues and it appears Kaneda too. Just curious if those will be enhanced like the loop shot was adjusted in factory.
Thanks and looking forward to getting mine

Spooky will be laminating target decals going forward for Rick and Morty.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

#3629 3 years ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

This is probably a masochistic challenge, but would it be possible to design plastic protectors that are clear, with a bonded / colored edge akin to a separate border piece that would glue on? I'm not sure how durable that would be (notwithstanding using design tricks to strengthen the joints). But it could preserve the stock color balance in the OEM plastic art, while still giving that awesome edge-glow effect.
It would likely be easier to apply dye or paint to the edges of clear protectors toward the same effect. There are some good UV paints out there (but again, durability vs ball strikes could be a concern).
I mean, those green protector edges look *awesome*... but I also agree on the whole that otherwise shifting the hue of the plastic artwork is akin to color-puking with LEDs.

Pinball Bulbs has been doing these for years...

https://truecolorprotectors.com/

truecolorbeforeanafter.jpgtruecolorbeforeanafter.jpg

They don't have R&M currently, but I'm sure they can be talked into it.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

#3720 3 years ago
Quoted from Pdxmonkey:

Look at me!
Figures curtesy of Rob Anthony[quoted image]

Ooooo...
Nice!!!

Those really are perfect for your game Monkey!

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

14
#3758 3 years ago

Just to give credit where credit is due for what's perceived as the inner loop shot fix.

epthegeek is the one that discovered that removing the two middle screws made the shot more reliable.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

#3800 3 years ago
Quoted from Kevlar:

Mine aren't as bad as you describe but my right flipper gets knocked down by the scoop eject every time. I received my machine on Monday, updated to latest code available then, hold strength to hard but still knocked down. Charlie said don't worry about it, it's being worked on. I'm not quite sure why it should be in an issue in the first place though, it's far from their first machine, or machines built with PROC. Makes catching the ball with a drop catch impossible, something I did all the time on TNA.

Quoted from Yelobird:

Same here. Only issue I still have especially when it shoots out of the center VUK. Pretty much levels the right flipper. Tried moving the settings but nothing changed. Hope someone comes up with some advise on this.

Quoted from Kevlar:

Getting back to the weak flipper hold power, is it the same for everyone? ( right flipper gets knocked down by the scoop eject )

Quoted from TomGWI:

We noticed this yesterday on our game. I let the ball dead bounce from scoop.
My son holds the flipper up to try and catch it. He was complaining the flipper was dropping. I took the glass off and checked the EOS switches which seemed fine. I then went held in the flipper button and gave the flipper a push with my other hand and it dropped back to rest. So I agree the hold power seems weak.
I also had a weird problem where the upper flipper randomly does not respond. Only happened maybe 3 times. I was going to check out flipper button today and see if it needs adjusting.

As I suggested in this thread, and directly to Spooky several times, adjust the flipper EOS switches so that they open at the absolute extreme End of Stroke...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/16#post-5487660

As for flippers not responding with flipper button presses, you need to adjust the flipper cabinet buttons so that they swipe the contacts. When the contacts of the leaf switch engage, they should push the two contacts together, and make the two contacts rub each other a bit. If you're getting no flipper engagement sometimes, the contacts are barely touching, there needs to be that swiping action/follow through when the contacts touch. This is especially important with proc games for some reason.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

12
#3828 3 years ago

This is the ideal EoS position for R&M....

With the current software and the EoS adjusted like this, flipper recovery is about as good as it gets.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

#3914 3 years ago
Quoted from Kevlar:

Is there any significance to the 3 different shot colours in Look Who's Purging mode?

Of course. The roaming purple shot is the thug trying to purge Morty. The blue spinner loop shot is the grenade that kills the thug closest to Morty. And the pink right outer loop shot is Morty.

The roaming purple shot starts at the far left, and incrementally moves closer to Morty at the right if you don't make the purple shot killing the thug.

From epthegeek's Key Post on rules...
ADVENTURE: Purge
- On the purge planet, the locals move left to right and are indicated by purple inserts.
- To start, you have to keep them from getting to Morty on the right orbit. You have to buy enough time for Rick to build the communicator.
- If a local makes it to where Morty is, the insert will flash red and you have a few seconds to save him.
- If Morty dies, the adventure is over.
- If you hold off the locals long enough, the Summer target will light to call her and have her send the armored suits.
- Once the suits are summoned you have to stay alive long enough to receive them. If you can do that; party time.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

#3957 3 years ago
Quoted from brerspidur:

another quick question. At first the game played great, but after about 20 games or so, I started noticing intermittent issues with the right flipper(s). Most often with the lower. But occasionally with the upper as well. Some times they will not respond to button presses. Or if you will be holding the flipper it will drop and hit again. Or sometimes only half hit. It has gotten to where it happens on nearly every ball. If you hit the button a few times it goes back to normal. I checked the leaf switched to see if there was any dust or anything blocking the connection, but after that I figured I should consult the experts.

Second paragraph...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/76#post-5706474

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

2 months later
#5466 3 years ago
Quoted from Jherre6:

My board looks like a different model. Does anyone know if they changed motherboards or the model of this one? The CMOS battery looks to be attached through that connector.
[quoted image]

That's the computer used in the first builds. The Asrock computer used from about game #80 on, is the one in the image from KingPinGames.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

#5470 3 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Is there a difference in performance from these two builds?

I'm not sure. The reason for the change was supply issues on the first one.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

4 weeks later
#6076 3 years ago
Quoted from wcbrandes:

Can someone please post pic at what to exactly check pleeeeease. Take a guess whats ready to be set up today!
[quoted image]

Congrats Bill!!!

No different than setting up any other game. Make sure all cables are seated well, and nothing is loose.

Enjoy! It's so much fun!!

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

#6077 3 years ago
Quoted from xfassa:

Alright, I am finally satisfied with the design.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Want!!!!

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
LockWhenLit at gmail dot com

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