(Topic ID: 257850)

Official Rick and Morty Club - You are not like other carbon based life forms.

By TheNoTrashCougar

4 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

rm-bcm (resized).jpg
20240213_184156 (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
422528975_3643555955960477_8769668710301573887_n (resized).jpg
422519275_1138850447145237_3594400768947504157_n (resized).jpg
Pinside_shopitem_7206_0 (resized).jpg
Pinside_shopitem_7206_4 (resized).jpg
IMG_9528 (resized).jpeg
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
20240107_005841 (resized).jpg
IMG_9084 (resized).jpeg
IMG_5194 (resized).jpeg
pasted_image (resized).png
7D6D3928-CBAA-4B77-9399-16C3A351E2F8 (resized).jpeg
20231227_100828 (resized).jpg

Topic index (key posts)

106 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #256 Rules posted by Eric as of Feb 2020 Posted by epthegeek (4 years ago)

Post #510 R&M Options Posted by Morinack (4 years ago)

Post #589 Useful post for coin door comparison. Posted by NeilMcRae (4 years ago)

Post #637 More code rules - Adventures full lost Posted by epthegeek (4 years ago)

Post #745 Club thread reminder. Posted by TigerLaw (4 years ago)

Post #748 Cards for the game rules and what not. Posted by Coindropper (4 years ago)

Post #751 Darker outline for instruction cards. Posted by Coindropper (4 years ago)

Post #976 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Wireform ball launch and coil adjustment Posted by timmmmyboy (4 years ago)

Post #1006 TECH:Pitch recommendation from Scott. Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (4 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider arzoo.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

270 posts in this topic match your search for posts by arzoo. You are on page 1 of 2.
#25 4 years ago

#234 checking in!

#41 4 years ago
Quoted from JustEverett:

#235 here...wanna swap spots? lol

I kinda like the 2-3-4 sequence!

Hoping for an August delivery but based on a recent post talking about containers and butter builds, I don't think there's anyway to accurately predict, but no worries, anytime is a good time for R&M!

#321 4 years ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

I get the math but not the specific application. Especially when "2x" could be purple (divisor) but "3x" is lit (multiplier) at the same time. Does that apply as "some shots are now divide (what?) by 2 while others multiply (what?) by 3"... or is it like an algebraic equation (multiply all by 3 then divide that by 2)... or something else?
Also, if you can only have no more than 3 meeseeks at a time, and the oldest ones age out to divisor-mode first before disappearing, is it even possible to get a 4x divisor?

I was told there would be no math involved

#446 4 years ago
Quoted from rai:

Too bad meseaks can’t give you negative points instead of just little points?
Has there ever been a mode or shot in pinball that subtracts points?

POTC has a random plunder which can steal points from the other players. During league play I've seen a player start ball two with zero points lol.

#706 4 years ago
Quoted from FYMF:

I'm curious as to how different/more effective thisnmagnasave is versus Black Knight SOR.. that magnasave does nothing bit frustrate me as it slows the ball but never saves it from outlane drain...

The magnasave in BKSOR is a completely different skill. It's more like a risk mitigation feature rather than an absolute save. At first I was rarely successful, but having played a fair share of SOR games in our league, I've gotten to the point where I can use the magnasave successfully at least once in every game. That being said, I much prefer the way it's implemented in R&M. I remember playing the original BK and thinking how much better the magnasave would be if I could control it, then came Jungle Lord, and now R&M!

#725 4 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

Final design
Would people want this on a shirt?
I honestly did this just cause i thought it was a cool idea for me and to surprise Scott when he said I could.
But if people like it, then I would be happy to do a small run of shirts; IF there is interest.

I'd take one for sure!

#809 4 years ago
Quoted from CKrueger:

Many games have crap blinking all over the place that makes it difficult to know what's going on.

I've owned my POTC for over a year and I still don't know why some of the inserts blink the way they do!

#838 4 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Maybe a summer gets bigger mode!

I'd love to see a Summer mode, Summer Get's Bigger or Keep Summer Safe, would be awesome! But given Spooky doesn't have the rights to the voice assets, I don't see it happening

#849 4 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

And Data East Jurassic Park.

And CV (wizard mode).

#958 4 years ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

My Mini R&M review:
Disclaimer, I’m not good at writing reviews.
I received my game yesterday. I wanted to say that I am a little embarrassed to admit that i post here quite a bit and think about pinball all the time, but have played less than 50 games of pinball in the last 2 years because of my health issues. Having had a brain tumor near my motor cortex in 2018 and surgery to remove it and now dealing with the tumor that has re grown, radiation treatment, seizures ect it has taken a lot of joy out of playing pinball for me. All that said I played more pinball yesterday after I got R&M set up than i have played in the entire year before I got it.
I spent all day setting my game up yesterday as my mental focus is not what it used to be, so I wanted to be extra careful. First off I will say that the game is Stunningly beautiful in person, I was blown away when I opened the box and saw it.
The shots:
I was worried as heard people talking about the difficulty of some of the shots On this game. This is potentially a big problem for me as not being able to hit shots consistently is one of my biggest frustrations when I play pinball.
I start my first game and immediately loop the ball twice as it comes around the upper flipper (I was like wow did I just do that) then I proceeded to hit the left and right ramps easily, the only shot that I fount difficult was the garage shot from the upper flipper, I was able to make it, but it is a tough shot! My understanding is that it was designed that way. There is something about the layout/geometry of the shots on this game that feels very well laid out to me. The shots are challenging but make able and there are tons of different shots to make. A+ on the playfield layout, again you can tell when you play this game how much thought went into the shot layout.
The light show:
What can I say, it is mind blowing! No exaggeration it is the best light show hands down I have ever seen on a game! (I have owned DI & WOZ ect) I was totally blow away by it, so much so that I sat and watched the game in attract mode for a half hour last night.
The artwork:
I love it, so much detail! The cabinet back box and back glass are beautiful and perfectly fit the theme and art for R&M. The playfield art is so cool I kept finding new Details on it. The purple armor
And coin door look amazing, there is a sparkle in the purple, pictures can not do it Justice!
Toys:
The game may look a little sparse compared to a game like dialed in when it comes to toys, but let me tell you, when you are Playing it you don’t think that all all! The game has so many shots and cool features.. like the slam ring (way cooler than I thought it would be!), Danesi lock, immortality field, portal shot to the garage with subway that kicks out to left out lane, Ricks ship etc.
Sound:
This brings the whole game together the sound is amazing it’s like TNA on steroids! The sound and callouts are absolutely incredible. I want to say that the Factory sound system on this game is the best I’ve heard on any game ever, but since I had a powered Polk subwoofer just sitting there I went ahead and hooked it up and it is intense!
The code:
I love the fact that I am playing as Morty! I have to say that for being early code it is already very good with lots to see and do! I can’t imagine how great it will be by the end of the year! Video clips are awesome, custom call outs are great, modes are fun and objectives are well thought out! (profanity set at 95%) I love the direction this code is going in!
Issues with my game.. there were not many:
The left flipper gap was A bit too much so I used my gap gauge and adjusted it. The shooter lane sometimes hits the end of the shooter ramp and bounces back to the auto plunge, this can be an issue if you are in multi ball and the first ball fails to launch and a 2nd ball ejects into the shooter lane as the plunger doesnt have the power to launch both balls at once, I will try Hilton’s fix on this today. One of the legs was making slight contact with the cabinet which could of damaged the decal, the game comes with the good metal cabinet protectors but the way the leg was formed created a slight clearance problem on only one of the legs (I have had this issue on Stern and JJP games as well) I swapped the leg to the back of the game and all was good. On a side note When I set up a game I bolt the legs on and then slide a piece of paper between the cabinet and the leg to make sure there is no contact.
So really very few issues so far.
Updating Code was a breeze!
This game/theme bridges generations! My daughter is 18 and her and her friends know I just got this game, most of them don’t play pinball, but because it’s Rick and Morty they want to know when they can come over and play it. (I guess pinball nerd Dad is cool after all)

This game will never leave my house until the day I die and then my daughter will enjoy it for many years.
Great job team Spooky you guys knocked it out of the park with this game!!!

Congrats and best wishes with your recovery!

#1272 4 years ago
Quoted from wesman:

Has anyone seen a location spot to play this in PA or Ohio yet? I know DC, and JackBar have a game currently, just can't find anything closer at this point...

Nothing in SE PA yet.

3 weeks later
#1772 3 years ago
Quoted from docquest:

So far yes.
It seems pretty solid even though 2 screws are out. Some argue that the lack of those screws allow the rail to have some "give" to it. Not sure if that makes much if a difference or not.
If I put the screws back in it would require new holes since the adjusted position moves it far enough that the old screw holes cant be used.

I'd be concerned with the rail unsecured at two points. Over time the ball impact will cause screw #1 (at the post) to loosen in the wood. If this is a better geometry, then Spooky should really make the change on future units, or maybe change the rail tab on screw #2 and #3 to be adjustable like on #1?

#1822 3 years ago

What's interesting is I had a similar problem with the orbit on POTC where the geometry caused the ball to ricochet between the two rails, and the solution there was to add an extra support to reduce the flex. Just goes to show that no two pins are the same!

#1940 3 years ago
Quoted from FuryosJustin:

The latest episode of super awesome pinball show is worth a listen. Charlie Emery is the guest presenter with some good information including that games are still in production during the lock down, maybe up to #120 and details on licensing with adult swim, among other titbits, and hints about the Ben heck cgc game

Unfortunately that podcast was recorded the day before Spooky announced they had been exposed to a confirmed case (11 days prior) and they were self isolating. That could add some delay, but more importantly, hopefully they're all ok.

#1986 3 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

The gap seems pretty large that needs something there to block it.

Moving the stand-up back might help but imo the proper solution would be for Spooky to extend that rail.

Has anyone else experienced this problem?

#1991 3 years ago
Quoted from dnapac:

Looks like about 1.3 cm[quoted image]

In that pic the stand-up looks twisted to the left which would increase the gap. Maybe just adjust/twist it the other way and reduce the gap. I would guess it should be aligned (parallel) with the playfield opening and graphic.

#2009 3 years ago

Has anyone heard news that Brian Allen was doing an alternate backglass for R&M? His stuff is really amazing and usually officially licensed. I found this teaser image (pw protected) while I was looking over his latest work for MM.

https://www.flylanddesigns.com/product-category/pinball-and-arcade-artwork/

Capture (resized).PNGCapture (resized).PNG
#2016 3 years ago

Everyone looks so angry. I agree, doesn't fit the theme.

1 week later
#2135 3 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Or if anything, make a piece with a rubber stop at the end so that it absorbs all of the momentum and stops the spin.

This style ball launch format has been done many times in the past (TOM, DW, etc) and in all cases the ball hits a rubber stop before dropping to the playfield. I'm guessing Spooky decided to go with the simple wireform stop to save on BOM or maybe just for less complexity?

#2179 3 years ago

Looks like the purple coin door upgrade is very popular!

#2218 3 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

That's funny, it does the same for me too. Just a quick wipe or turning the flipper rubbers or something. Unless its TWD. That game is an a**hole...but damn it it's never leaving.
I love Flash Gordon...if you get a lead on a CPR, let me know!

Flash Gordon is such a great pin! I just picked up a Hardtop for mine. I think Keith may still have a couple left if you email him.

#2247 3 years ago
Quoted from trilogybeer:

This is what I am doing for a pingulp.[quoted image]

Are these for sale yet? Need!

10
#2309 3 years ago

With all the detailed information on tweaks here, I am 100% sure that spooky will do their best to improve future builds!

#2527 3 years ago
Quoted from Krsmith9:

I agree. I hope all Spooky is doing isn't just removing the screws from the inner loop and removing the tabs that go along with it. The game plays so much better with Karl's adjustments. I hope Spooky takes a really close look at it and responds accordingly.

I had similar hopes, that spooky would keep an eye on this thread (which they do) and maybe try to improve the shape of the rails and the mounting points. But then I feel things got crazy with little consensus. Although it seems the majority fell on the side of hoping future builds would be improved, there were some very vocal and persistent posts to leave the game as designed. So I wonder if Spooky will make the decision to stay out of the fray in this case? I hope I'm wrong, but regardless, the pin is amazing, and those of us who want to make any changes (as documented by others) can do so. Flip on!

3 weeks later
#2883 3 years ago

Just wondering if there's been any recent discussion on the possibility of adding a third ball to the horseshoe lock? As I recall the hardware could handle it, just needed to be added to the code?

1 week later
#3047 3 years ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

The facts are that the progression thus far has been: Spooky released the game in the original state, then said "just removing the screws" was all that was needed to resolve reported issues, and now has seemingly made more aggressive tweaks.

Do we know this for sure, that Spooky has made more aggressive tweaks?

#3107 3 years ago
Quoted from TheGunnett:

#76 is home and is being bolted to the floor.
[quoted image]

No slide-saves with that setup lol!

#3285 3 years ago
Quoted from metallik:

Already been done... "Dirty pool old man!"

Also, "Sneaky Lock!"

#3350 3 years ago
Quoted from iepinball:

I took slow-mo video from the game here before I dropped it with washers AND bent the scoop hood down ever so slightly. I tried to just bend the hood down first but it wasn't until I dropped the scoop also that the rejects stopped. I was not willing to file down the inside edges of the scoop but understand how that could help. Not worried about wear as the hard edge of the wood is still covered by the scoop edges. YMMV

Very interesting, looks like the shots that hit the left or right side (of the metal protector) bounced out, and the shots that were direct went down, but still not smoothly. Can you do a slow-mo video after the adjustments?

#3414 3 years ago

The fan on R&M may be a bit loud, but it's nothing compared to the spinning disk on POTC!

#3533 3 years ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

Sand an INCH off the door frame?

That was my thought also, sanding an inch off a door frame would be like a person in prison using a file to cut the bars lol! I'd recommend using a hand-held power planer (although they can mess up wood easily). Better solution would be to remove the head of the pin I'm thinking.

#3570 3 years ago
Quoted from Charliew65:

well the first 100 took 3 months so guesstimate 3x4=12 months something! If it comes sooner....BONUS!!!

Actually 9 months something from now using that formula
Another formula would be 10/week which was Spooky's original estimate.

#3658 3 years ago
Quoted from SpookyLuke:

The cheese balls are a kingpin thing! He actually ordered them for all of his customers! If you are a kingpin customer and you did not receive them that means we uh... forgot

I love cheese balls! This makes me sad. Joe, are you listening?

#3706 3 years ago
Quoted from jbigdoggf:

Anyone willing to cut Mylar for all the drop targets and any other non protected surfaces that are getting wear ?
Would be awesome to get a ‘kit’ vs cutting them myself with scissors ...
Thoughts ?

From what I understand there's no need for mylar on the stickers, Spooky has fixed this.

1 week later
#4059 3 years ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

I think the car analogy is a good one. Nobody expects things that cost 7k+ to chronically require end users to complete the design and manufacturing process to have a product that functions well.

I've been thinking about this and I don't think a new car is a valid analogy. Cars are manufactured by companies with thousands of employees, on assembly lines with hundreds of robots (which by the way WILL kill us some day), and sold to tens of thousands of customers. So yes, they are near perfect. Pinball, on the other hand is basically a boutique industry that hand manufactures a few thousand (or less) very complex and very expensive toys. To equate pinball with cars, I think you'd need to go back to the 1930s, or maybe the Yugo

#4065 3 years ago
Quoted from greenhornet:

given those parameters, it sounds as though pinball craftsmanship should be on par with that of the worlds finest artisans. i dont understand how you can use that statement as an excuse for a lack of proficiency in manufacturing.

I wasn't making a statement about lack of proficiency in pinball manufacturing, just that the way a car is manufactured is not the same as the way a pinball machine is manufactured, so it's not a good comparison imo.

2 weeks later
#4475 3 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

This 4/5 step is where the problem is. When a ball moves in the ship, I have to have a large delay before I can verify where the balls are in case they roll across the top of the arc slowly (just ask Karl). So, when you hit it from Rick to Morty and then back quickly before that time has expired, the game hasn't decided for sure where the ball is yet because switches keep changing.
After pouring a fair amount of brain juice on it, I've altered the secondary logic that tracks single ball states inside the lock so now it both detects a transfer sooner (time cut in half) has an even longer delay for balls slowly rolling over the top, and will immediately re-raise any drop knocked down when it hasn't solidly located the ball yet. So in the outlined test steps (now) when you hit the non-green target after rapidly re-transferring the ball, it will immediately snap back up preventing the leak.

This^^^! This is what set's Spooky apart from every other pin manufacturer.

1 week later
#4695 3 years ago
Quoted from JustEverett:

Man 235 can't come quick enough. I'm so ready to play this game some more!

Same, and I'm one ahead of you!

2 weeks later
#5008 3 years ago

Sounds like (per Bowen 22:50) there may be some call-outs from other cast members in a future release!

#5040 3 years ago

His initial ask was 13k, but that quickly dropped to 11.5k. I'm guessing he's raising cash for JJP GNR which is all he can talk about these days.

#5050 3 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

Other way around.. he asked for $11.5k around 1pm today, then about 7 hours later posted a new ad in the rick and morty group for $13k saying he put the wrong price in but the pinball marketplace takes forever to update changes. Good luck to him getting $13k for a used game, especially with a butter cabinet that will probably get messed up during shipping.

Coming from Kaneda, that does make more sense. Funny you should mention messing up the butter, I had the exact same thought.

1 week later
#5378 3 years ago
Quoted from Deadlander:

Thanks but I see 3 versions of the inside decals. It it the planets in the universe one? or the alien world with yellow background?
Regards,
Al

Yes, it's the one with the planets and space background. The other two are photo-shopped ideas.

1 week later
#5603 3 years ago

Slow Ramp for the Extra Ball would be my pick!

#5642 3 years ago
Quoted from Jkush18:

171 delivered today PA USA

Hey, where are you in PA if you don't mind me asking?

#5751 3 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I started to fit glow tonight but I’ve decided to reorder a new kit with clear everything and either black or yellow flippers. The reason? The colored lightshow looks best displayed through clear rings, to me.
I’m trying to nail down the correct rubbers, as the Kalaxian Purple kit on Titan has some deviations from stock, and I discovered the fork I made is incomplete.
I’ve got an email in to KT to inquire what the official sizes are.

What type of rubbers are included from Spooky? I'm assuming not Titans?

2 weeks later
#6170 3 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

The acrylic mounting plate cracked.

No worries, I believe Spooky has modified the design so this should be less likely to happen.

#6172 3 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

I simply answered his question.

Yup, I was responding to his "concerned" emoji, but I quoted your post accidentally.

#6243 3 years ago
Quoted from schwarz:

Well I definitely don’t want it to stop making shots for me.
But I don’t want to keep dropping nuts in the cab either.

Might be able to keep the three washers (or at least two) and add a lock washer under the nut?

#6333 3 years ago
Quoted from Deadlander:

Just got a note yesterday that 243 shipped and I’m eagerly awaiting it unfortunately will be leaving for a week and half long road trip on Thursday evening will have a buddy meet the delivery guys in my absence. Just my dumb luck after waiting all this time. I guess I will have something to look forward to once I get home.... Any guesses on when it gets to central Florida from Wisconsin?

Hmmm, 234 (PinballSTAR) and I have not heard any shipping news. Hoping soon!

#6336 3 years ago
Quoted from mettle64:

I've got Standard #587

Yep, all the Standards are last regardless of the reservation number.

Unless shipped overseas.

#6340 3 years ago
Quoted from TinyBlackDog:

I'm 237 and also haven't heard. They make them in batches and I doubt they push them out the door in numerical order. We should be within the next day or so I bet. Trying to be patient and not bugging Joe too much with the GnR CE mess he is likely dealing with.

I'll hold off bugging Joe for a few more days, no rush really. Wonder if he has to tell some of his customers they're not getting the GnR CE they put a deposit on? What a cluster f*ck! I love my POTC, but JJP as a company, not so much.

1 week later
#6529 3 years ago

Can anyone confirm if recently received R&Ms have leg protection of any kind? Hoping for shipping notice for #234 soon and want to be prepared

#6535 3 years ago
Quoted from JustEverett:

I was just about to say that the game has these protectors on it. Not sure how the scenario played out with gonzo73 that led to a decal tear. I typically lift my machines with a modded harbor freight lift. I learned early on lifting with your back to adjust level is no fun. Best $130 I've spent in this hobby. Escalara is the next best buy, but not nearly as cheap.

My friend and I picked up a used Escalara and split the cost. Still not cheap but worth every penny!

#6557 3 years ago
Quoted from rai:

I’m waiting for 236 to ship

234 same.

#6560 3 years ago

Just got word from Spooky that #234 was loaded on truck yesterday!

#6562 3 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Well, drinking IS kind of on-point for the theme, so...expected.

Took me a sec, but LOL!

#6594 3 years ago
Quoted from lookyloo:

Side note... I wouldn't recommend using a late model Honda Pilot for transporting pins. I had to strip it down to the plastic wrap and still had to give it a less than gentle push to get it to fit for the last few inches

I'm surprised since the Pilot seems like a mid-size SUV. We were considering a 2020. What was the size issue, length?

#6598 3 years ago
Quoted from lookyloo:

I was surprised too. Mine is a 2017. The extreme corners of the backbox scrapped by the arched opening of the trunk. I suspect the problem was that the middle seats are at a slight incline when folded down, which starts to lift the pin ever so slightly once it's almost all the way in. I don't know if I had flipped the seats forward if it would have made the incline a non-issue, but it would have likely created a problem for the length given the pre-mounted topper (and my lack of tools in the car to remove it).

My wife and I have been test driving new SUVs and the first thing I check is if the seats fold flat! Our current SUV ('03 MDX with 220k miles) has been a great pinball hauler! Hoping #234 will be delivered tomorrow!

#6679 3 years ago

I went with clear pinguards from PinballLife. https://www.pinballlife.com/pinguard-cabinet-protectors-set-of-4.html

#6793 3 years ago

#234 was delivered yesterday. I'm starting to get it dialed in and it's playing really well, such a fun pin! Absolute first thing everyone needs to do is dial down the sub! Even so I've ordered anti-rattle tape. You may notice the special edition Jerry legs - I pulled them out of storage because the perty purple legs would have damaged the side-art. Waiting for Spooky to come up with a solution or maybe I'll just try felt protectors. Other than that, no real issues out of the box

20201020_233611 (resized).jpg20201020_233611 (resized).jpg
#6800 3 years ago
Quoted from MrCliftron:

There have been some issues with the legs from spooky having a fighters angle than they are supposed to and as a result, digging into the machine a bit. For those without leg protectors on hand, best to use different legs for now. That's why the different legs here.

I also tried using PinGuards, but as MikeS mentioned a few pages back, the purple legs just pressed into the plastic which pressed against the side-art. I'm sure if I had tightened down the bolts it would have started to press in and eventually cause damage. I see a couple solutions here, new legs which are stamped correctly, thicker metal protectors, or double-up on the current metal protectors. Metal washers might also work but that seems like a hack. I'm sure Spooky will come up with a fix.

#6852 3 years ago
Quoted from canea:

Shots are smooth when you hit them, clunk when you don't, like any game. They're difficult, narrow shots; no amount of messing with them is going to make them wider or easier. Imo.

I would agree. I find the inner orbit is at the very top of the flipper and the portal shot is at the very end (tip) of the flipper. I spent considerable time tweaking all the rails including and upper flipper angle, and I'm not sure it made much difference (from the factory positions) - when you make the shot it's mostly smooth, otherwise brick or miss.

#6853 3 years ago

Can anyone confirm if it should be possible to back-flip the right ramp? I'm at 6.8 degrees and even with the flipper at max power (50), the ball can't make it over the top curve of the ramp.

One other silly question, any idea why there's a screw in the backboard behind the center of the house, just where the roof meets the backboard? The screw seems to be at a very odd angle and doesn't seem to hold anything? The top (of the screw) is painted black and the backboard decal touched up with black paint around the screw. Very strange. Can't really see it, so no big deal, just wondering?

#6854 3 years ago

.

#6856 3 years ago
Quoted from schwarz:

I’m at 6.9 and 35 power and I back flip it all the time.
When’s the last time you waxed?

Waxed yesterday. At 35 the ball makes it halfway up the ramp. Hmmmm maybe I need to adjust the flipper angle up a bit?

#6862 3 years ago
Quoted from schwarz:

I have NOT adjusted the flippers at all.
Wish I had a toothpick to take a better picture with the hole gap, they are angled upward slightly.
[quoted image]

That looks the same as mine. Not sure why the flipper would seem so weak?

#6869 3 years ago
Quoted from schwarz:

What’s your hold strength set at?

The default, which I think is Medium.

#6892 3 years ago

I raised the flipper position by a couple degrees and now I can backflip the right ramp no problem (flipper strength at 35, hold Medium). Thanks everyone for the tips!

14
#6899 3 years ago

Had one really great multi-ball with lot's of Meeseeks and a few dimension jumps when I looked up...

20201022_203937 (resized).jpg20201022_203937 (resized).jpg
#6900 3 years ago

Does anyone know if there's a setting to award a game (fire the knocker) when setting the high score? My POTC awards three games which is so satisfying!

#6937 3 years ago

Had a mini launch party tonight with four of my close friends. R&M played flawlessly and was a total blast! Thanks Spooky!

#6944 3 years ago

the PinballPro Anti-Rattle Tape AR-1 is expensive, but works as advertised.

#6947 3 years ago

Is it normal for the right flipper to barely have the strength to make the left ramp? I have the setting maxed at 49 and if I trap on the right and shoot the ramp, the ball will make it to the top maybe one out of three times, very annoying. I actually don't think the flipper strength setting has any effect, like I would expect a noticeable difference between 30 and 49, but too me it's feels the same?

#6956 3 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Definitely not normal. What is your hold strength at? Keep it at medium or lower otherwise they may overhead and weaken.

I tried the hold strength at medium and high. I can switch it back to medium. I'll also check for any binding, but I'm pretty sure the mech is fine. I've also tried adjusting the flipper position - I moved it up a few degrees to make the back-flip into the right ramp easier, but maybe that's making the left ramp harder?

#6957 3 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Check your gap between the bottom of the flipper and the top of the white nylon flipper bushing poking through the playfield. If it's too tight that will rob power. There should be about the thickness of a credit card of vertical play.
If that has a gap so there's some play, REMOVE the flipper coil stop and inspect. Nothing should be loose on it. You sometimes can't tell if the flipper coil stop has broken without removing it, but it will cause what you describe, and sometimes the flipper will stick briefly in the up position, too.

Thanks for the tips, I'll check the gap and coil stop (although I have no issues the the flipper sticking in the upper position).

#6960 3 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

A broken coil doesn't always cause occasional flipper stick but it will rob power, so you can still have a broken coil even if you're not seeing the occasional sticking.

When I checked the flipper mech I noticed that the EOS leaf was engaging way before the end of the flipper stroke and that was adding an additional pressure and (I'm assuming) robbing power. I adjusted the EOS so it engaged at the end of the stroke and the flipper seems to make the left ramp shot more consistently, even with the power lowered to 40. The only issue is now occasionally the flipper will stick in the up position?

I haven't checked the coil stop yet.

#7025 3 years ago

We love our R&M and I don't see it ever leaving my collection. The pin can be brutal and you just want to give it another try. It's crazy how one second I can hit horseshoe, ramp, inner orbit, inner orbit, garage, right orbit, right orbit! And the next second it's post brick, post brick, orbit rattle, half ramp, garage rattle, ramp rattle, post brick, drain, ugh!

#7036 3 years ago
Quoted from Soulstoner:

Did you buy it second hand or from Spooky? I thought this game was around $7500USD, which is around $10k CAD?

Adding all options except the coin door bill acceptor and butter, plus tax and shipping was just over $9kUSD for me.

#7132 3 years ago

I'm curious if anyone has measured their flipper coil voltage (in the up position)? I'm getting 12v which I've been told by Spooky is wrong. I've posted a few times before about the strength of my lower flippers being very weak. Making the left ramp to the top is almost impossible and a backflip to the right ramp is doable, but just barely. Each time I've made an adjustment (EOS switch, flipper angle, etc) it seems to be slightly better but I think it's just a placebo effect lol. I've also confirmed the coil stop and sleeve are fine, and the flipper shaft is not binding. Changing the coil settings makes little difference; I have the right flipper set to max (49). Anyway, Chris at Spooky is working with me (via email) to resolve the issue and has told me 12v is not right, but he didn't mention what the correct voltage should be?

#7223 3 years ago
Quoted from ArcadeBar:

I'd be interested to find out what you hear back from Chris. I've had issues with my lower right flipper being weak, adjusting the leaf switch stopped some intermittent half flips and fixed a little bit of strength, but its still never been strong enough to trap the ball and be able to hit the right ramp. Anything over 40 on my coil strength doesn't seem to change anything and my hold is set to medium with 6.5 pitch.

I've been working with Luke now. I was wrong about the hold voltage measured at the coil (had the meter set to VAC doh!), so that's not the issue. Voltage at the PSU was 49.6v and he suggested bumping that to 50.5v. I also lowered my pitch to 6.6 (from 6.8), and adjusted the flipper position a bit lower (I can still just barely make the right ramp with a back-flip). With all those changes I was able to make the left ramp for the first few games, but then the flipper weakens and the left ramp shot becomes impossible. I'll continue to work with Luke today, he's thinking maybe a defective flipper bushing or possibly the flipper has to much or to little vertical slop. I'll report back later.

#7244 3 years ago

I made what I though was the impossible shot - upper flipper to the left ramp. The ball must have deflected just perfectly off the pin on the left side of the ramp entrance and had enough power to make it to the top. Total luck, and I was totally surprised!

#7284 3 years ago

I definitely notice flipper fade on the lower right.

I've been working with Spooky to figure out why I could not make the left ramp shot, and based on a suggestion by AJ, I increased the flipper shaft gap to about 1/8" vertical play. Mine was much tighter than that, and although it did not feel like it was binding, it must have been rubbing enough to decrease the flipper strength. With the larger gap and the coil set to 40, there's more than enough strength to make the left ramp even after prolonged game play. So problem solved! Thanks to Luke and AJ - great tech support!

#7385 3 years ago

I'm wondering if Eric could chime in here how much variation the coil strength settings provide? I continue to have flipper fade issues (after 30 minutes of play the left ramp is not possible) and from my experience the coil settings do not make any difference. Maybe the range of power between 30 and 50 is just very small? Or maybe increasing the value causes more heat generation and faster fade?

#7390 3 years ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

I like how DP uses the Tip & Tell and the Drop Tell.

JJP uses the same system.

#7394 3 years ago
Quoted from pinball_ric:

Yes a higher power will result in higher temps and reaching high temps faster. Eric commented the other day on it. Might be a few pages back by now. He said you shouldn't really go above 40. He seemed to say there were diminishing returns on strength the higher you went and there wouldn't be much difference between 40-50 except for the amount of heat generated.

Good to know, thanks. I'm at 40 now, so I'll back down a bit. Hoping for a coil cooling kit soon.

#7397 3 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

I’m probably stating the obvious, but has it been a while since the ramps have been cleaned of grime and wax? And are the flaps on tight? These can slow the ball on the ramp.

Ramps are cleaned and waxed and flaps are flush with the pf. I've been working this problem pretty much from my first game, and Spooky has been helping. Originally I could barely ever make the left ramp. With pinside and Spooky's help, I can now make the ramp until the flipper strength fades from heat.

#7398 3 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

It's pretty close. Waiting on the Spooky-specific wiring harnesses and still getting final beta test temp numbers. Should be good to go in maybe 10 days?

Great news, count me in immediately!

#7404 3 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Friction from a flipper too tight to the bushing and/or a coil stop are a good bet to check. The testing I have so far has the right coil between 131 and 140F after 30-40 minutes of play. That's definitely enough to notice fade, but usually not enough for ramp rollbacks, unless the ramp is steep.

Believe me, I've gone over everything with the flipper mech, coil stops, EOS switch, pf slope, flipper angle, and flipper shaft gaping (there's no binding), etc. 30 minutes was a guess on my part - all I can say is when first playing (cold) the ball clears the top of the ramp with power to spare (not a lot, but some). After playing for a while, the ball makes it to the top of the ramp but not over the threshold - which is SO annoying. I've never had a problem like this before with a new pin, and if it were an older pin, I'd just do a rebuild on the flipper.

#7407 3 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Have you tried rebuilding the flippers?

LOL, no. But if Spooky sends me a new set of parts then sure
I've actually asked them to send me a new coil.

#7435 3 years ago
Quoted from luvthatapex2:

Can you try this? Play for 20-30 min and when you notice the left ramp is unmakeable feel the coil. Is it too hot to touch? I bet so, but it would be good info to get a handle on the issue. then check the right one. Is it too hot to touch?

I'll check that and report back.

#7477 3 years ago
Quoted from luvthatapex2:

Can you try this? Play for 20-30 min and when you notice the left ramp is unmakeable feel the coil. Is it too hot to touch? I bet so, but it would be good info to get a handle on the issue. then check the right one. Is it too hot to touch?

Just played for about 30 minutes and then turned off the pin and tested how hot the coils felt. I could touch either one for about 10 seconds before it became uncomfortable. So yes, they get hot.

#7480 3 years ago

Wow this pin is brutal on the tips of the flippers! These are Titans I put on from day one (about a month ago). I've switched back to the black bands from Spooky for now. I guess it makes sense given that the garage, left ramp, and right orbit all require shots at the very end of the flipper.

Screenshot 2020-11-11 145226 (resized).pngScreenshot 2020-11-11 145226 (resized).png
#7693 3 years ago
Quoted from canea:

I have the same heart, same place.

Mine was drawn with a silver pen.

#7738 3 years ago
Quoted from FuryosJustin:

I really like Rick's multiball call outs, some of my favorites. Like "are you ready for this intense multiball shit morty" or "dirty dirty multiballs!"

My favorite call-out is after the game is over and Rick says something about "rocking Jessica's world" because you can actually hear Justin start to break as he recorded it!

1 week later
#8235 3 years ago
Quoted from The_Casual:

I've experienced this when I force a restart on Ball 2, if you do it enough times the LED colors will get out of whack - sometimes the portal green/yellow spin of the entire playfield will stay on constantly; only fix I've found is rebooting.

I've had the same happen on a forced restart. Going into test mode and back out is a fast fix (helps if you have a keyless lock or leave the key in).

#8236 3 years ago
Quoted from arzoo:

I've had the same happen on a forced restart. Going into test mode and back out is a fast fix.

#8237 3 years ago
Quoted from The_Casual:

I've experienced this when I force a restart on Ball 2, if you do it enough times the LED colors will get out of whack - sometimes the portal green/yellow spin of the entire playfield will stay on constantly; only fix I've found is rebooting.

I've had the same thing happen on a forced restart. Going into test mode and back out is a fast fix.

#8248 3 years ago
Quoted from kermit24:

vireland it’s been well established by Spooky that the EOS doesn’t cut high power on the flipper coil, so not sure what you are trying to achieve here.

That's totally true, but (at least in my case) the EOS switch was engaging way early and just the physical flex of the leaf was robbing a small bit of strength from the flipper. Normally that would never make any difference, but as a few of us have had issues with the left ramp, ever little bit of power gain helps.

#8252 3 years ago
Quoted from BeeGeeMtl:

I appreciate you trying to help but I don't know what an EOS switch is, or where to find or whether to know if it's "engaging too soon" or what a leaf switch is. I'm basically a guy who just bought a new car but has no idea how it works or how to fix it, which is probably the difference between some owners in this thread being somewhat miffed at all the stuff they need to fix and those who understand how pins work and how to fix them. It's kinda frustrating for us newbies. Usually you're not asked to work on your engine after you purchase a $10k car, but alas, I love Spooky and wanna support them but this can get frustrating. I think some people in this thread need to be a little more patient with newbies like myself. We're not all techies. I just bought the game because I love playing pinball and loooooove Rick & Morty.

I guess the first question is are you comfortable safely lifting the playfield into the upright position? If not, then I would suggest finding a friend with pinball experience who can show you the basics.

17
#8268 3 years ago

I was so happy with my 72mil score. But alas, it did not hold. My son crushed it!

Screenshot 2020-11-29 213358 (resized).pngScreenshot 2020-11-29 213358 (resized).png
#8286 3 years ago

I know, right!

#8294 3 years ago
Quoted from kermit24:

Was this score achieved with stock settings and a tilt bob installed? How many extra balls?

The pin is set stock with the exception of starting with 0 adventures (stock is 2). Tilt bob is installed, but the pin is on hard floor so slide saves are possible and I'm sure my son used the two tilt warnings on each ball. One extra ball (can you even get more than one?). PF is set to 6.7 degrees. He finished with 33 seeds and had 20 early on. Completed 9 adventures, 5 or 6 successfully.

Also, as the game progressed the left ramp was more difficult due to flipper fade. I've ordered the cooling kits, although I'm concerned that would allow my son to put up an even higher score LOL

#8300 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

Please tell me your son is at least an adult and not some snot nose 12/13 year old kid
My best game so far is around 32 million!
Are we just all Jerry’s???

LOL, yes he's an adult. The thing is, he has his own place, which means over the past 6 weeks since our R&M was delivered, he's only played for maybe 4 hours total. Whereas I've been playing an hour or more almost every day, and well... like you say, most of us are just Jerry's!

#8305 3 years ago
Quoted from JustEverett:

Are we sure the game was functioning properly? Did he get through 10 adventures and play the 3x one really well? I've had the game for a 1.5 months and only get around 30 mill on the best games.

I can say for sure the pin was playing properly. He drained the last ball (#4) during the 9th adventure.

Quoted from northerndude:

If you get a really good stack going with an adventure/good dimension/multi ball you can BLOW up a score if you're getting seeds while doing it

This ^^^

#8307 3 years ago

Megaseeds are the key, and the faster the better since they remain for each ball. A 10 mil ball (which is not hard to achieve with an adventure stacked on a good multi-ball)... add 10 megaseeds and you now have a 20 mil ball, 20 megaseeds becomes a 30 mil ball, etc. Start stacking some meeseeks in the mix and the jackpots really kick in.

#8394 3 years ago

Anyone have a suggestion on how to reduce the center scoop rejects? I'd say one out of three direct shots will reject. I've tried bending the scoop lower and higher. Higher made it worse. Lower maybe helped a bit. I've also tried adding a small felt pad but that made it much worse. I feel like the problem is the ball hitting the back of the scoop and then then leading metal edge. Adding washers to lower the metal below the wood would probably solve the problem, but then the wood would take a beating. Maybe a cliffy instead? This is the last thing I need to resolve to get the pin really dialed-in nicely.

#8400 3 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

I lowered it with washers and it totally solved the problem...didn't bend anything. The metal is totally level with the wood, which means the wood WILL NOT take a beating. It's really pretty straightforward. Before leveling the scoop, I had 6 of 10 rejects. Now it's 1 of 10.

So you're saying the metal is even with the inner sloped edge of the playfield, no lip at all? If the pf edge is not taking a hit then I'll give this a try. Thanks.

#8549 3 years ago
Quoted from ThePinballCo-op:

#114 here.
Just found out that my right ramp opto connections were reversed. Whenever I made it halfway up the ramp, it would qualify for a scoop shot to start a mode. I thought the game was built that way, but after watching some R&M streams, I realized that is not the case. I opened it up and swapped the entrance/exit opto cables and all is well now.

I thought it was odd that the left ramp required a complete shot over the top while the right ramp registered with only a half shot. Great catch! I'll have to check my cables.

#8556 3 years ago

Spooky sent me a new set of legs to replace the ones that would have pinched the corners. I've got no use for the old ones. I'm guessing they could still be used with washers or a double bracket. Technically they're brand new (I put on old legs from day one). PM me if anyone is interested in them. Just pay for shipping. If not I guess it's into the trash.

Thanks Spooky for the new legs!

Update: The legs have been claimed. Glad I didn't have to trash them!

20201205_164421 (resized).jpg20201205_164421 (resized).jpg

#8670 3 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Here's a 3-piece impact modified acrylic CNC cut set that we are producing for the ramps. Both designed to prevent airballs from flying off the ramps as well as stiffen up the ramp entrances which seems to help with making the ramp shots, especially the left ramp.

Any chance you'll offer just the left ramp cover as an option? Anything that might help with the left ramp shot I'm willing to give a try.

#8709 3 years ago

Update looks awesome!

Anyone else think it would be useful if the Card Stamp animation could be double-flip interrupted?

#8761 3 years ago
Quoted from BeeGeeMtl:

Can someone show me where the USB ports are, to place the USB key to update the code? I've been looking for 10 mins, I must be blind!! :0[quoted image]

Screenshot 2020-12-09 163228 (resized).pngScreenshot 2020-12-09 163228 (resized).png
#8814 3 years ago
Quoted from Braindance:

I'm wondering a couple things about the flippers.. Can people post pass from both sides? Also, can most people hit the left ramp from trapping the ball on the right flipper? I can pull it off maybe in the first two minutes of play (it will just barely squeak by that last bit of ramp), then the flipper fade seems to take that away. After that, the left ramp is only doable with momentum based shots.
I originally thought the garage shot would be the toughest, but i can nail that shot regularly. My flipper power is stock, with the only adjustment made to them being the eos switches. I very slightly moved the leaf on them to solve the severe knockdown issue, and it did help that. The flippers are both sitting above the alignment holes like people have mentioned, but the right one is significantly higher. My game is set to the recommended 6.5 degree angle.
I don't have any issues with other shots in the game, just the left ramp. I should also mention I removed the right screw from the left ramp, as i noticed it wasn't doing anything but get in the way of the ball since the wood hole was stripped and something under the playfield seems to have prevented the installer from screwing it in all the way. The left screw is tight and the ramp is entrance is sitting fairly flush to the playfield, so I don't think the ramp itself is the problem.
Perhaps anyone having zero trouble with the left ramp could post a shot of how their flippers sit near the alignment holes? I would appreciate it. I've never adjusted flipper positions before, but I'll try it if I have to since this is the only complaint i have on this awesome game.

I can make the left ramp from a cradled shot for about the first 15 - 30 minutes of play, then the flipper fade kicks in. I just received the cooling kit but have yet to install it. But even from a cradle the shot is very difficult. If the ball hits the left side of the ramp it will almost always defect and rattle or make it half way. Only way it makes the ramp is entering cleanly from the right side, which is super tight. As for changing the angle of the flippers, if you lower the right flipper (closer to the alignment hole), the left ramp shot will be easier, but you won't be able to back flip the right ramp. Raising the angle of the flipper and the opposite will be true. I tweaked the flipper angle quit a lot before I found a good balance. It's crazy how finicky this pin is, I find the slightest changes (flipper angle, rail position, etc) can totally change how well a shot works. Never had this on any other pin. It's like the pin it totally binary.

#8816 3 years ago

I'll play a game and it's miss, miss, brick, rattle, brick, rattle, miss. Than I'll start hitting the shots and it's like wow, this is so much fun!

#8876 3 years ago
Quoted from jaybeedee:

When I removed my left ramp I found one much shorter woodscrew floating around in a stripped hole (and neither screw in the pre drilled holes on the playfield) . I wonder if there is a conscious reason for this at the factory
I packec the hole and tightened it up thinking that making it stiffer would help with the ramp shot. I don't think it has. After the discussion above now worried that it might be making the ramp flap the wrong shape.

The left ramp left screw is shorter by necessity; a longer screw would protrude into the subway and prevent the ball from moving past. I learned this the hard way when I replaced the screw with a larger one to match the right and then I'm like why is the pin searching for a ball, wtf? As for the pre-drilled holes at the bottom of the ramp, neither of my ramps use those holes and they seem too large anyway.

#8914 3 years ago

A couple times I've been playing and all voice call-outs stop working. The music and background noises continue, but nothing from Rick or Morty. Only fix is a reboot. I'll have to throw in a USB stick next time it happens. Anyone else notice this?

#8970 3 years ago

Here's the thing about adjusting the rails and altering the mounting points and removing screws and whatever; what one person does or suggests may not work for others because there are many other factors such playfield angle and flipper angle. The entrance to both the garage and inner orbit is wide and takes a quick sharp turn. If the ball enters towards the left and parallel, it will most likely follow the guide around and up. But when the ball enters at any other point or angle, it deflects off the rail, and this is where the most minor adjustment can make a difference; depending on the shape of the rail, the ball will either deflect/bounce upward (and the shot is successful) or it will bounce across the lane and essentially rattle and fail. I feel like Spooky has done a pretty good job of setting a good default position for the rails.

#9032 3 years ago

This would also explain why the flipper rubbers get destroyed so easily - the ball is only hitting the lower edge of the rubber.

Screenshot 2020-11-11 145226 (resized).pngScreenshot 2020-11-11 145226 (resized).png

#9035 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

Can washers be installed below the playfield in-between the entire flipper and coil metal bracket they are attached to? To pull the entire assembly away or down? To bring the flippers closer to the playfield?

The flipper bushing is screwed directly to the bottom of the pf (it's not part of the flipper mech). Maybe could add washers, but that seems janky.

#9038 3 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

????
Flipper bushing is part of the flipper mech... Never seen one ever screwed to pf. It is integral to the whole mech.
Just loose the flipper bat, drop the whole mech, and rebuld the flipper with a new (shorter) height bushing.
This is like a 20 min job for a novice IME

My bad, you are correct. Maybe I'm thinking of older EMs?

#9043 3 years ago
Quoted from Fytr:

In any case, this "flipper-bushing gate" issue isn't the reason the original poster can't make his left ramp consistently. I have no issues on my game and i have the same bushings as everybody else.

Not sure I totally agree, I would think the combination of a difficult shot off the flipper tip and only using the lower edge of the rubber could in some cases make the shot much harder imo.

#9051 3 years ago

I'm thinking these are the bushings used by Spooky; https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-nylon-flipper-bushing.html
Might order a couple to try and reduce the length.

#9092 3 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Has anyone else experienced the flipper coil settings not affecting the power of the flipper at all?
Specifically I'm talking about lower right flipper. I've been messing with this since I got the game, trying to get the ball up the left ramp. EOS adjusted, flipper gapped properly, no binding, etc. A setting of 30 versus 50 provides pretty much no difference in strength of shot. There is obviously an art to the timing of left ramp shot but from a cradled ball it is almost impossible to make at either power. I found it really odd as I kept turning the power up during my investigating (playing 20-30 games between changes) that when I just went from 50 to 30 there is no difference I can tell at all. I would have expected something drastic. At 50 I could still barely roll the ball over the top of that ramp, same as I can do at 30. I'm not looking to tune out the skill needed but I want to know why the flipper shows no difference.

Luke and Chris were both helping me out with the same issue you're having (right flipper not strong enough to make the left ramp), and I asked about the flipper coil setting because as you've noticed, it seems to make no difference. As I recall one of them told me the software coil setting would have little effect, go figure?

For me what helped the most at getting a bit more strength from the flipper was to increase the gap between the bushing and the bat to about 1/8". This was suggested by Luke, and it did help.

Lowering the flipper angle closer to the marker holes will also make the left ramp easier, but make a back-flip into the right ramp more difficult or impossible. It's a fine balance.

#9217 3 years ago
Quoted from Fytr:

Looks great! I just ordered a set of those random selection figures off ebay, thanks for the tip.

Looks like only Funko's on eBay. You must have picked up the last set of Jinx!

#9258 3 years ago

I know others have posted similar pics, but thought I also concur, lowering the flipper and changing the flipper angle so it's just above the calibration hole (using a toothpick) absolutely makes the left ramp shot more consistent. In my case I removed 3/32" from each bushings. I could probably have gone to 1/8" safely.

I'll also mention for anyone who's planning to swap out their bushings when Spooky provides the new ones; be aware that the three screws holding the bushing to the mounting plate have small 8mm lock nuts on the back side. I wasn't expecting this and when I removed the first screw the tiny nut fell into the rats nest (which somehow I found). The screws are threaded into the plate, so I guess the lock nuts are for extra security. Bottom line, you have to remove the plate from the playfield (8 wood screws, not all the same size) to remove the bushing.

Bonus question, guess the two pins barely visible from the two slits under the apron.

20201221_180940 (resized).jpg20201221_180940 (resized).jpg20201221_183930 (resized).jpg20201221_183930 (resized).jpg

#9262 3 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Is your left flipper in that photo "stock"?

That's correct.

#9263 3 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

One on right is 9 ball
Left is nip it

That is also correct.

#9275 3 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Thanks for the response, but I have the B/W gap tool and my flippers are gapped perfectly (yet they are uneven). I'll have to take this to Spooky directly at this point...doesn't make sense to me. I thought that after fixing this problem (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/180#post-6015874), the flippers would be in alignment. It helped, but no cigar.

Looking at your pic again, I can see a bit of the flipper shaft (metal) above the right flipper (left in the pic). The bottom of the flipper plate should sit flush on the bushing, so maybe razorsedge is correct in that the plunger mech is somehow pushing the flipper shaft up? Goingincirclez had some good suggestions. I would also check that the metal plate on the bottom of both flippers is screwed tightly to the plastic. I guess it's even possible both the flippers are not manufactured identically?

Also, those digital levels can be flaky, I know with mine just tapping it and it will change a tenth of a degree or more.

#9313 3 years ago
Quoted from DanQverymuch:

The anti-gravity device seems weak. Using up the whole energy bank isn't enough to get the ball to sit still over the magnet? Is everyone's this anemic?

That's correct, the magna-save on R&M does not work like on other pins where it can freeze the ball. Its use requires more nuance and timing to sling the ball back out from the outlanes. Basically as the ball passes over the magnet, tap the button to cause it to reverse direction, then quickly let go. It's surprisingly effective, and first thing I do on a new game is trap up on the right flipper and back-flip into the floogle crank to charge it up (and light lock).

#9333 3 years ago

Now that we've had some time playing with all three of the flipper bushings adjusted (lowered 3/32") and the lower flippers set just above the alignment holes, it's crazy how much different the pin plays. It seems way faster (and it was already fast)! The orbit shots fly around super fast, and the ramp shots hit the top so fast that now I'm getting some rejects. I may actually lower the flipper coil settings (even though I don't think they do anything). I'm not sure why having the ball hit more of the "meat" of the flipper rubber would make the game faster, but it definitely seems to have done that!

#9335 3 years ago
Quoted from kbrink43:

I do have a question for other owners. The left orbit seems very slow (when i can even hit it) and doesn't feel smooth at all. Almost like it's not bent properly. I took a closer look at the metal guide and I noticed a few holes where it looks like screws would go to attach it to the playfield. Are these purposefully left out? Or did they miss them on the install? I'm wondering if they would help stiffen up the metal guide and help the shot feel more smooth. I've attached a picture showing where these empty holes are on the metal guide. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks and happy holidays.
[quoted image]

Yes, Spooky is leaving those screws out intentionally to improve the orbit shot. Yours may require additional tweaks. It's really a trial and error thing. Bit of a pain but the shot can definitely be improved.

#9337 3 years ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

Same all here.
I'm on 27 and no problems making anything, with gusto! . Didn't have a problem before, but made the bush alterations to stop the ball chewing at the lower edges of the flipper rubber, and now the spinner orbit and everything just go like absolute lightning!! ... Probably could go even lower.

The only reason I can think of is maybe when the ball was hitting the lower edge of the rubber it was causing the flipper shaft to torque in the bushing or lift up? Regardless, really glad Spooky jumped on this and is working on the new bushings.

#9339 3 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Awesome! Seems like getting more of the flipper rubber to make contact with the ball might partially explain the dramatic improvement. Can you take photos of your bottom flippers? I'd like to see your PF/flipper gap @ 3/32". Thanks.

Sure, I'll take the pic and post in a bit.

#9342 3 years ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

I rekon it's because being struck at the lower corner of the rubber it is "wedging" the ball downward at the playfield, hard, and sucking all the energy out of the flipper stroke.
At correct height it is contacting more evenly top/bottom of rubber, and scooting the ball direct horizontal and Not sapping energy, free stroke without the extra friction! (so more of the energy goes directly into the ball).
I think this is kinda similar to your description, except applying to what the ball is doing, in concert with the bat.

This makes sense.

#9343 3 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Awesome! Seems like getting more of the flipper rubber to make contact with the ball might partially explain the dramatic improvement. Can you take photos of your bottom flippers? I'd like to see your PF/flipper gap @ 3/32". Thanks.

Looking at the pic, it seems like my left flipper (right in picture) is not exactly parallel to the pf. Hmmm, this would have to be something with the mounting plate below. Or maybe it's just a shadow in the pic? Not gonna worry about it
20201224_120606 (resized).jpg20201224_120606 (resized).jpg20201224_120629 (resized).jpg20201224_120629 (resized).jpg

#9390 3 years ago

In installed Pinball Monks Tibetan Breeze flipper cooling kits. Simple to install, and they run very quite. Only thing I'll suggest is rather than removing both bolts holding each coil stop and then replacing them with the included standoff bolts, it's easier to swap the bolts one at a time. That way the coil stop remains in position and there's less risk dropping the bolt or small lock washer into the rats nest! I also added a second set of lock washers so that all eight bolts had the locks.

Played for about an hour after the install and as expected, no flipper fade

20201226_162308 (resized).jpg20201226_162308 (resized).jpg20201226_162532 (resized).jpg20201226_162532 (resized).jpg

#9399 3 years ago

Sorry about the confusion with my pics not showing the coil stop stand-off bolts clearly. The design seems solid. Not sure about the metal used for the stand-offs, but I'm guessing aluminum because it's not magnetically affected.

#9402 3 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

thx arzoo!
Did it seem like you could torque them down tightly?
Do the fans run constantly when the game is powered on? I was thinking of adding these for route game, but non-stop running I am not a fan (pun intended) of
Would be cool if they only started when a game was started.

Yes, no issue tightening the stand-off bolts, and the kit also provides a small tube of lock-tight. I'm also pretty sure the design has already been extensively tested on other pins. Fan runs constantly when power is on.

#9403 3 years ago
Quoted from RebelGuitars:

How difficult is the loctite to break loose if you need to change a coil stop? Those aluminum stand-offs sheer off pretty easily.

That seems like a problem for future me

The color provided is blue.

Screenshot 2020-12-27 101436 (resized).pngScreenshot 2020-12-27 101436 (resized).png
#9407 3 years ago
Quoted from RebelGuitars:

Thanks. Did you just hand tightened the stand offs or use a nut driver? I have a kit here I need to install.

I used a nut driver, but it's a tight fit between the nut and coil stop bracket. The kit also provides a small wrench, but that's a bit tricky to use on the right flipper given how it's surrounded by wires and what-not. Regardless, you definitely need to tighten with a tool (not hand tight).

#9467 3 years ago
Quoted from bitternerd:

Yo fellow Mortys! (Morties?)
Flippers sticking up occasionally- requiring a double tap.
Thought maybe was the bushing but shaved it down and checked play carefully and no resolution.
Thought maybe an issue with the flipper switches but can't seem to see any issue or get them stuck watching button taps with pf up.
Happens left and right lower about equally.
Anyone else? Did I miss a fix earlier in the thread?
Thx
Mike

If the EOS switch is engaging at the very end of the flipper stroke the flipper may stick in the up position (this is a software thing). Try adjusting the leaf switch so it engages a bit sooner.

#9479 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyohtay:

Okay, after about 15 hours of play my ship hinge broke.

Seems like there have been enough reported cases of this part breaking that Spooky needs to address the issue. I believe there has even been reported cases of the the modified part available from PinballLife (https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-300-0185-00) breaking. And loosening the retaining screws is not a proper solution.

#9481 3 years ago
Quoted from Zablon:

I'm trying to remain positive, but things like that really bug me. Why are these still being shipped out like that? It wasn't a good design to begin with, relying on bending plastic. As soon as people started reporting them breaking so fast, something should have been changed. Sure it may be a 'cheap' fix overall, but that is kind of the point. It screams 'cheap'.

I'm guessing that this issue never came up during testing, so Spooky assumed the engineering was fine. Most R&Ms have yet to have the part break (mine included), but I think by now there's enough evidence that the design or part needs to be changed. But if not, I've already ordered the backup from PinballLife, because with pinball, shit happens

#9483 3 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Seems like the PITA isn't the replacement cost, but the time to install it. Mine hasn't busted yet. I imagine the mech that pokes it might contribute to games where the plastics are breaking (if it's not adjusted properly). So if someone replaces the plastic, they should make sure the mech isn't poking it too aggressively.

I agree, and that may be why Spooky never had an issue during dev and testing - their test rigs had the mech adjusted correctly.

#9570 3 years ago
Quoted from DNO:

Heads up! My game has been routed and seen a fair amount of play, and is beginning to wear. It’s a non-butter. I will be removing the side rails and putting Mylar to stop it as-is, but some might wish to prevent wear at all.
[quoted image]

I haven't noticed any wear around my flipper buttons (yet) but rather than mylar I decided to give this mod a try. And anyone who already has some wear in the flipper area, this would mod would cover it up! https://www.hookedonpinball.com/store/p161/Rick_and_Morty_pinball_mod.html

1 week later
#9778 3 years ago
Quoted from rockrand:

I also see a code date 1/3/21 I would think that is brand new but don’t see any talk about it?
Thanks

Bug fixes and tweaks, no new content.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/194#post-6057583

#9856 3 years ago
Quoted from Alamo_Pin:

Do you just apply one strip to the top of the glass or is there some other way to install it?

It is applied to the top and bottom, wrapping over the upper edge. This way, sliding the glass into the track does not catch the edge of the tape and pull it up.

#9911 3 years ago

I have a love/hate relationship with my R&M. I absolutely love the theme and theme integration, no other pin has ever harassed the player like Rick does! I hate how often shots are rejected, so often I find myself counting how many in a row, cursing each and ever one (and I've spent like 50+ hours adjusting this pin). I love the way the Dimensions alter the game play, the way bonus works with Megaseeds, and the way Meeseeks increase and then decrease shot values, just brilliant simple rules! I hate how often I walk away angry after a bunch of shitty games in a row. I love how it pulls you in and you just have to try again. Did I mention I hate the shot rejects? And then I love when it all just comes together and I have an absolutely great game!

1 week later
#10251 3 years ago
Quoted from PinBalt:

Has Spooky said that they will announce when games start being manufactured with the revised flipper bushings?

Other than Charlie's original post, there's been no further update. He said it could take "a couple months best guess". That was about five weeks ago.

#10326 3 years ago

Not sure I'd call R&M a "clunkfest" but when a shot cleanly enters an intended pathway and then deflects between the two sides and rolls back out, I can see how some players would be annoyed with that type of rejection. This happens on the left orbit and garage shots due to the geometry; relatively wide entrance followed immediately by a very tight turn. It just depends on the angle and position the ball enters these two pathways, it either makes the curve or it rejects. Sure, there are tweaks to improve how well these shots flow, but none (imo) will prevent all the rejects, you just need to learn how to make those shots, basically play better. That's what I love about R&M, it forces you to play better or it kicks your ass!

#10406 3 years ago
Quoted from Soulstoner:

This is the max it’ll go. Used PinGuy app to make sure it was level at 6.5 pitch.[quoted image][quoted image]

Here's what mine looks like. Yours doesn't look much different except the glass on the right side doesn't seem aligned or pushed up far enough to clear the lock bar.

20210201_215039 (resized).jpg20210201_215039 (resized).jpg20210201_215100 (resized).jpg20210201_215100 (resized).jpg20210201_215153 (resized).jpg20210201_215153 (resized).jpg

#10409 3 years ago
Quoted from Soulstoner:

Some other issues that I'm sure have been addressed somewhere earlier in the thread:
- I can't seem to flip a ball on the fly as the flipper gets pushed down upon impact? Is this an issue because of the bushings or is there an adjustment I should make?
- Left flipper button activates the flipper with a light breeze. I know I probably need to adjust the leaf switch, but do I need a leaf switch tool for this, or I can I just bend it manually?

The flipper mech has an end-of-stroke (EOS) leaf switch, if it engages too early (before the end of the stroke) that will cause the knock downs. And if it engages too late, the flipper may stick in the up position occasionally. See this post; https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/77#post-5706913 Definitely get yourself a set of leaf switch adjustment tools, but you can use a needle-nose pliers until you do.

#10422 3 years ago
Quoted from Soulstoner:

Yes it is. Is this something to be concerned over? Every other aspect of the cabinet seems fine so far.

Just looks like the top edge of the ply wasn't totally painted. It's all hidden by the lockbar and siderails, nothing for concern imo.

#10480 3 years ago

For me the current shooter rails are mostly consistent, but not always. Sometimes the ball will trigger the loop-back lane switch, sometimes it will continue all the way around the loop-back, and occasionally during multiple, the auto-plunge won't make it all the way to the top. I'd say it works as intended 9 our of 10 times. I'll probably order the upgrade.

22
#10491 3 years ago

My son succeeded in smashing his prior high score of 138m. I think it's safe to say the pin is dialed in now!

20210203_212622 (resized).jpg20210203_212622 (resized).jpg
#10494 3 years ago
Quoted from Soulstoner:

What pitch is yours set at?
I saw 6.9 key posted, but that seemed like a meme response, so I’m at 6.5 currently.

We're at 6.8.

#10496 3 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

That is simply Incredible. Wish my son played more but even if he did our combined score time 5 would not be as good as your son. Wow.

Thanks. I honestly don't know how he does it, he doesn't even live here - he comes over for dinner once or twice a week and plays for an hour or so. All I know is all my pins have high scores that I can't come close to breaking LOL!

#10499 3 years ago
Quoted from jbigdoggf:

No.. are you sure you cannot slide glass up farte

I think If I took the glass off and just pushed the ball around the playfield by hand I couldn't score 328M.
That's amazing
Do you have the Tibetan breeze mod ? How is flipper fade ?

LOL!

Yes the Tibetan fans on the flippers are one of the key reasons the pin is playing so well. I would say the following five tweaks were the most effective for us;

1) Adjusting the rails on the garage, inner orbit, and feed to the upper flipper. This was mostly trial and error and I'm guessing it's unique to each pin.
2) Setting the flipper angle; lowering the bottom flippers to align with the marker holes was critical. Also setting the upper flipper so the ball transitions smoothly from the rail to the flipper.
3) Modifying the flipper bushings so the flippers are closer to the pf.
4) Tibetan Breeze fans on the lower flipper coils.
5) Fixing the metal ramp protectors so they lay flat against the plastic ramp wall. This reduced the spring/ricochet effect causing the ball to reject when the shot was not clean (mostly on the left ramp).

The pin was perfectly playable from day one, but these changes definitely help get our scores up!

#10505 3 years ago
Quoted from fnord:

Waiting on shipping notification has me buying mods.
Is flipper fade much of an issue on the upper flipper?
Trying to decide if the 3 fan kit is worth the money

For me it was really only the lower right flipper that could not make the left ramp shot to the top (after some time). You might want to hold off on the order until you know for sure that you have an issue making the shots. On the other hand, keeping the flipper strength consistent is always a good thing.

#10518 3 years ago
Quoted from Calfdemon:

I had a similar situation I want to complain about! One of my ACNC wireforms broke recently after having the game over a year. I emailed them a photo and asked them if they had anymore in stock so I could buy one. If not, I was going to weld it myself (but would have to remove powdercoating with no way to replicate it exactly). Instead of selling me a new one, they want me to send it back to them and they will make the repair and powdercoat it for free! What is this world coming to when you can't even spend money anymore?!?!

Same with me, I contacted Spooky and asked to pay for a set of standup target stickers (I have one slightly damaged sticker) and instead they sent me two sets at no cost, the nerve!

#10635 3 years ago
Quoted from P1nhead:

Yeah, I had it in my cart and went to check out... removed from cart. I have no complaints about it not being included from factory, I saw the machine as proposed and purchased - this is a modification I thought was a fair price and value added. Oh well.

I agree, thought the price was fair. These days buying ANYTHING for a pin for $50 (or less) is rare!

#10640 3 years ago
Quoted from Calfdemon:

Luckily I bought mine last week when they were available. I don't have my game yet, but know this is something I wanted to fix out the gate.

You may have the only one, worth 10k by Christmas!

#10669 3 years ago

For those having issues with the flippers sticking, Eric posted about a month ago on the subject; https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/198#post-6074621.

#10688 3 years ago

After adjusting my EOS switches, I've never really had any issue with the flippers getting knocked down. Occasionally I'll get a slight knock down when the ball returns from the horse-shoe at a crazy speed, but it's rare.

#10792 3 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

I still get lots of rejects from the center scoop, I've bent it up and down, and it also has the washers. I really don't know what else to do, but would appreciate any guidance. I get like 60-80% rejects.

Same for me. Not sure I'd say 80% but definitely two out of three shots reject, more from the right flipper than left. The ball seems to ricochet between the left and right walls and then bounce out. I can see a definite deformation of the metal edges. I've just accepted that the shot is hard and is what it is.

1 week later
#11028 3 years ago
Quoted from Propsnsports:

Do we know how many standards there are?

If I recall, less than 50.

#11094 3 years ago
Quoted from gliebig:

^Don't forget to have fun. ^

I love that call-out because Rick seems to say it after I've had a couple really shitty games, so I'm like "FU Rick!"

#11118 3 years ago
Quoted from fnord:

Is coil buzz normal when holding up the flippers? I thought it might be something that would go away when I got the EOS dialed in but it persists.

My flippers buzz a bit when holding, but not enough that I really notice during game play.

#11271 3 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

It was a joke, but I don't think it would even be that complicated to implement, really. A little time-consuming to test and some new menu options required, but the hardware is pretty straightforward and already exists.
But really, if you're going to go to the trouble, just put biometric fingerprint sensors in the flipper buttons. Then you could have handicapped games where the machine keeps track of player ongoing handicaps and adjusts the game automatically per player so in a multiplayer game, everyone is playing at their ability level and the field is transparently evened automatically.

Or, how about this; some sort of touch screen on the lock bar with a finger print sensor! Spooky could call it a Pinbar, no wait, SpookyBar!

#11275 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

The length of screws might be on purpose because mine were the same.

The shorter screw is necessary because it will protrude through the wood into the top of the subway and stop the ball! This happened to me after I put in a longer screw and I'm like what the hell, why won't the ball eject? Took me a while to figure out what was going on.

#11305 3 years ago

I was also ready to purchase the improved wireform when it was pulled from the store. Happened so fast, and honestly, I didn't see all that much whining about it here, but maybe there was more going on behind the scenes? Anyway, wish it was available again.

#11310 3 years ago
Quoted from canea:

Guess I'm one of the whiners then. In a perfect world it would be included on games coming off the line now. It's very much superior to the original - like others have said, no more dialing the launch down to slow speeds to make sure it dribbles off the end of the original, just solid launches. Glad I was able to buy one and hope PBL makes it available again for the rest of you soon.

So wait, because of you I can't buy one but you did! Oh the irony
Wonder how many there are in the wild. You should sell it for.... $1500 (2k by Christmas).

#11316 3 years ago
Quoted from canea:

I guess, man. I don't have facebook, so did no whining there. Just said "Would be cool if this was put into new games." here because it would be cool if it was put into new games since the original is poor design. But don't expect Spooky to ship them out to people. Seemed like a decently priced add-on for PBL to sell if people wanted them. Worked for me.

No worries, I was just joking around.

#11410 3 years ago
Quoted from Calfdemon:

Thanks for the birthday wishes... Quick update. #544 works great upon delivery. A few small tweaks will be needed here and there probably but 100% playable as is. Will probably be absent until bedtime tonight, because.... well, you know.

Congrats! Btw, I didn't think "Peace Among Worlds" sticker was included on the coin door with the bill accepter panel?

#11525 3 years ago

I just re-adjusted my EOS switches to engage at the extreme end of the flipper stroke (the way I have them on all my other pins). Before the latest update this would have caused the flippers to stick up, but I played for about 45 minutes and didn't have a single stuck flipper. So Eric got that fixed! I was still getting occasional knock-downs, so I raised the flipper hold to High. Unfortunately the extra heat caused enough flipper fade that the left ramp required an absolutely perfect shot to make it over the top (and this is with the fans), so I had to lower the hold back to Medium.

#11664 3 years ago
Quoted from gac:For anyone interested, I just listed several figurine mods for Rick and Morty in the marketplace. One listing is for four figures (Rick, Morty, Summer, Tiny Rick). Another listing is for two figures (Rick, Morty). Then there are listings for individual figures (one for Rick and one for Tiny Rick). All of these are brand new items in original packaging. Here are a couple pics of these figures on my machine for reference.

I've been looking for these figures for months now and this is the second time I missed out, bummer.

#11702 3 years ago
Quoted from hustle:

Newest code with default coil settings has definitely improved the flippers for me. I can actually hit the left ramp now.

Same for me, set both my lower flippers from 35 back down to the defaults (30) and was able to make the left ramp no problem and no knock-downs. Only played for about 10 minutes so I can't yet confirm if heat/flipper fade has been improved, but based on how strong the shot up the left ramp was, I don't anticipate any issues. Great job Spooky!

Added over 3 years ago:

Update: after extended play (20+ minutes) the flippers fade to the point that the left ramp is impossible. And this is with vireland's fans. Hate to say this but I have to rescind my "Great job Spooky".

#11718 3 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Here is the flipper temp data I collected for my machine (running the latest release with default flipper settings for coil strength).
Played for ~90 minutes straight.

Just to confirm, you're not using vireland's fans, correct?

#11721 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyohtay:

We have been using vireland's fans on ours while streaming. I didn't usually see over 130F on the right flipper and quickly drops to 115ish on the January code. Last night, I put the new code in and played, the right flipper settled at 130F. Initially the were very snappy and no sign of konck-downs. as it got up to 130, I could tell they weren't quite as snappy, but I was still able to hit my shots and still didn't exhibit knock downs or sticking.

Interesting, so based on snaroff's testing, the fans knock about 50 degrees off. I'm also running with the fans but haven't had time to test the latest code for an extended play time. I don't have any sensors, so flipper fade for me would be subjective.

#11724 3 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

The standard fans I use in the SPIKE and Spooky kits tend to keep the temps around 110-120 with peaks maybe in the 130s, so about 50F off. The JJP kit will have 50% more CFM fans because the coils generate a LOT more heat. Those fans can knock up to 100F off temps.

I won't have my GnR until the summer if I'm lucky lol! But I see another fan kit purchase in my future.

#11725 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyohtay:

I recommend (carefully) peeling the paper off your coils to expose them to the airflow directly

I can't see the paper acting as much of an insulator, but it is blocking the direct airflow. I guess without the paper the coil wires on the outer layer would benefit from the direct airflow. Interesting theory. Wonder how much it helps?

My problem is my OCD would kick in seeing bare coils lol!

#11753 3 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

More expensive. I'm trying to keep the cost down, and the standard fan keeps the temps in check on SPIKE and Spooky well enough that they're below the threshold of fade except for maybe occasional spikes just over the line. For most people that's ok.
But, the standard fans are just completely overwhelmed with the crazy temps JJP throws at it, so I had to step it up until I could find a quiet fan with more CFM that also kept JJP coils below the fade threshold. First 20% more CFM (not enough), and finally 50% more CFM (which gives similar performance to the standard on SPIKE and Spooky - maybe an occasional spike over the threshold, but the vast majority of time well below the threshold of fade).
Here's the cooled/uncooled comparison graph from jjPoTC - as you can see, the temps uncooled are much more severe than R&M, and the 50% higher CFM fans took a whopping 109F off the temps, peak to peak. jjGnR is similar...
[quoted image]

The thing with POTC (at least in my case), even with some flipper fade every shot remains makable.

#11754 3 years ago

Well I had hoped this wasn't the case but with the new flipper code and extra heat, my left ramp is no longer makable after 20 minutes of play. This is super disappointing. I don't know if I should try bumping up the right flipper strength (currently at 30), or go back to the original pulse cycle and bring back the knock-downs?

vireland, any chance the stronger fan you're using for JJP will fit the Spooky purple mounting bracket?

#11758 3 years ago
Quoted from jsa2145:

the original pulse cycle should not bring back the knockdown. It wont affect the fact EOS are now hardware controlled

I tried the original pulse cycle and the flippers started to fail, like the ball would hit the flipper and it would totally collapse.

Quoted from gstellenberg:

Bumping up flip strength to try to overcome power degradation due to single-wound coils heating up and/or installing fans to keep the coils cooler in the hopes of minimizing degradation are both not addressing the root cause. I mean, do them if they help, but I'd be looking for ways to keep the coil from heating up in the first place. The code suggestions I gave address knockdowns and any corner cases resulting from them. So now the programming/settings tradeoff is how strongly to hold the flipper up (which creates more heat ) vs how often to re-energize the coil to overcome knockdowns (which also generates heat, but not nearly as much as constantly pulsing the coil). It sounds like Eric implemented the fast re-energize code such that it can react almost instantaneously. So if it were me, I'd leverage that more and lower the hold power to reduce heat.
Heat is obviously one big downside to using single-wound coils. Step 1) optimize the drive parameters of the flipper to minimize heat buildup. (I don't know what settings are provided in R&M to allow you to tune these things.) Step 2) use other means to reduce the heat.
- Gerry
https://www.multimorphic.com

Thanks for the info. I have my hold set to the lowest setting. I tried bumping the flipper strength to 35 and the left ramp was still an impossible shot. I give up. So pissed right now. Never has a pin evoked so much emotion from me. And right now that emotion is hatred and helplessness.

#11762 3 years ago
Quoted from guitarded:

I assume you have adjusted your EOS...
What are you set at for PF angle?
I run into ramp issues at 7.2+...but down around 6.7 or so, they are both butter.
I am on the 12/20 code and typically play for about 3-5 hours a night.
A little fade post multiball (when I can keep them on the field long enough), knockdown or two when the flippers are loaded and get hit with a kickout or pop fire...but nothing that makes me feel like things aren't working the vast majority of the time.

I'm at 6.7. Tried every combination of strength and hold settings. Adjusted the EOS. This has been an issue with my R&M from day one and Spooky has tried to help. In the end only the addition of vireland's fans reduced the flipper fade so the left ramp was consistent. But with the new code that's no longer enough. Since many others don't seem to have any issue, there must be something specific with my pin. Maybe a complete flipper rebuild? But right now I just need to cool down, me, not the coils.

#11764 3 years ago

Yes, but I've shaved them down.

#11766 3 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Well, as long as the bushings are absolutely level, then you should be fine. If the bushing isn't level, the flipper bat could be at a slight angle, which *could* create some mechanical binding that would weaken the flipper (and possibly generate more heat). That's the problem with having the community hack the bushings, precision is kind of important when it comes to flippers. As I've posted recently, my left flipper is binding ever so slightly, but doesn't really effect gameplay. You might want to move your right flipper bat and check carefully for any friction...sometimes it can be subtle.
Another thing you might invest in is this...it will tell you if the outlet the game is plugged into is on the weak side. Unlikely, but a good $10 investment when you own pinball machines...
amazon.com link »

Thanks for the suggestions. I'd say my bushings are perfect (used a dental lathe). And the flipper fade / left ramp was a problem before I shaved down the bushings. Also checked the voltage at the PS and confirmed it's correct.

#11773 3 years ago
Quoted from rotordave:

Does the flipper bat have 1-2mm of up-down movement?
Not doubting your skills - but I’ve just recently seen two dudes rebuild their flippers and they were too tight, created big coil heat and fade. Always worth a mention ...
rd

Not sure the exact gap but I use a spacer tool and there's definitely some up/down play. But thanks for the suggestion.

#11776 3 years ago

I've calmed down a bit now and Luke already responded to my email (on the weekend!). Going to try an entire new flipper mech. Since most others don't have this issue, maybe there's something going on with my current mech (binding or some burr in the joints)? It's worth a try, and I appreciate Spooky doing everything to make their customers good.

#11777 3 years ago
Quoted from PinBalt:

So ... new code is better for flipper response but flipper fade is worse even with Tibetan Fans?

That has been my experience.

#11897 3 years ago

For anyone who thinks that R&M has had its share of issues (perceived or otherwise), go over and read the recent posts on the GnR thread. The grass is not greener on any side of the pinball glass lol!

#11986 2 years ago

Blue is USB 3.0. Others are USB 2.0 (slower). As mentioned above, use the blue port.

#12046 2 years ago
Quoted from Soulstoner:

My scoop is shooting straight down the middle roughly 1/4 times. How can I counter this if it's not consistent?

At least you're able to make the center scoop! I'd say I get about 3 out of 4 shots on the scoop rejected. I've lowered it down, but I'm concerned if I go any lower the ball will start hitting the PF. I've also tried bending the scoop arch both up and down. Even tried adding some foam to the back. Nothing seems to help.

#12074 2 years ago

Anyone here watch Solar Opposites (another Justin Roland animated series)? The plots are not as complex as R&M but it's still so funny! Season two just dropped and the first ep has a funny reference to a Congo pin.

#12090 2 years ago

TWIPY for best theme! Considering GnR is basically taking everything (best toys, really?), I'm surprised R&M won anything.
then...
TWIPY for best callouts - they got that one right!
then...
Free topper for the win!

#12144 2 years ago
Quoted from klr650:

Anybody else have this wood screw installed between the house and the artwork? Is it a shipping screw to keep house from bouncing around?

I asked about that screw also and didn't get any response. Mine is actually painted black.

#12162 2 years ago
Quoted from Fytr:

For some reason I still can't skip the Adventure Card sequence, which I'd *really really* like to be able to.

Yes, totally agree, the adventure card sequence needs a skip feature!

1 week later
#12286 2 years ago
Quoted from klr650:And we are back!!!!
New code dropped on April 5!
[quoted image]

Prior to the latest update my flippers were rock solid with default settings. After the update I'm getting knock-downs again. Guess I need to change the settings.

#12316 2 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

The only thing that changed with the flipper control between the March release and the April release is that the 'default' hold power was turned down to make them heat up slower. Nothing about what controls how the flippers recover was touched between those two releases.
DEFAULT/MEDIUM is significantly lower duty cycle than it was in March.
AGRESSIVE/HIGH is almost exactly what DEFAULT/MEDIUM used to be - just VERY SLIGHTLY less (16ms pauses versus 14ms).
If you're still somehow getting a full knockdown, either your EOS didn't properly work (to trigger the recovery) or the "recovery pulse" time isn't high enough.

I readjusted my EOS switches so they engage and disengage as close to the end of the flipper stop as possible (confirmed with switch test). I tried different combinations of flipper settings but settled on Medium Hold, Default Recovery, and 30 (max) for the Recovery Pulse. With this configuration I don't get any knock-downs, but on high impact (like from the horseshoe) I will get some bounce-back. I still feel like the flippers responded better with the prior code (Recovery Pulse at 25 and slightly wider EOS gap), but with these new settings the flipper response is pretty good also. So, back to playing!

#12457 2 years ago
Quoted from kidchrisso:

Can we get the ball saver adjusted. I had 2 seconds left and all 3 of those fuckers went down the shitter, only to give me one back into play...seriously, that needs some adjusting. I had the same issue with TNA.......
...........................rant over (for now)

Seems like with R&M when more than one ball drains (during multi-ball), the code waits until after each ball is re-launched to check if there's time left on the ball-saver timer for the next ball. Hopefully this can be fixed!

#12458 2 years ago

Anyone else still having the bug where the number of mega-seeds displayed (last two digits) is reversed? So for example, 15 becomes 51 seeds. We're running latest code and still seeing this.

#12461 2 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

Nope. There's a limit to the number of saves you get in multiball. If you drain 3 with only 1 save left you only get one back. And no, there isn't any good visual indication of how many are left, before you ask.

Thanks for the clarification!

#12473 2 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

Nope. There's a limit to the number of saves you get in multiball. If you drain 3 with only 1 save left you only get one back. And no, there isn't any good visual indication of how many are left, before you ask.

Been thinking about this a bit more. This would mean that after the (unknown) number of ball saves have been used, the count-down timer is meaningless. Also, when multi-ball starts I often let two of the balls drain - guess that's a bad idea

#12476 2 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

The countdown timer cuts off when the ball save number limit is reached. If you start a multiball and let all three drain immediately, you'll see the timer go away.

Good to know, thanks!

#12495 2 years ago
Quoted from wolv3:

I could see them limiting the amount of balls given from the ball saver so players don't just let the ball drain so they can shoot upper loops on the shooter lane feed.

Taking advantage of the ball-saver to intentionally drain balls is a very common strategy. Nothing wrong with how Spooky implemented the ball-saver, but afaik the logic is different than every other (non-Spooky) pin out there.

#12582 2 years ago

I've been playing with the latest update for a while now and there's absolutely no doubt that (at least on my R&M) the flipper behavior is worse than with the past code version. With the prior code I felt like the flippers were finally working like other pins, but now it's back to occasionally knock-backs and bounce-backs. It is what it is.

#12595 2 years ago
Quoted from fnord:

Have you tried aggressive/high setting? That got my flippers back to where they were in the last release.

Yes, that improved the knock-backs but made the bounce-backs worse. Running with default settings seems to be the best compromise (for me), but it's still not close to normal, and by normal I mean like every other pin I own.

#12627 2 years ago

This is just crazy, some people report the flippers are worse, others report the flippers are better, so what gives? The multitude of flipper settings doesn't help imo. But assuming we're all running the same code version, my guess is it's the EOS that's causing all the knock-down and bounce-back variations. This is an analog adjustment. Even if Spooky said for example, the EOS should close at exactly 1mm before hitting the stop, there's no way we could all get it adjusted perfectly. And we shouldn't have to get it adjusted perfectly. Pinball flippers have been working fine in SS, DMD, and modern day pins for better than 40 years. Just say'n.

#12660 2 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Is there an official update for the flipper bushings? Does it even matter? I am wondering if the game would shoot more smoothly with lower flippers but perhaps it really doesn’t make a difference. Does anyone have details on the before/after experience?

It definitely matters, you'll have better control (particularly on the tip shots) and the rubbers won't get chewed up as much.

#12671 2 years ago

.

#12673 2 years ago
Quoted from Beamer2007:

What is the smallest entry way/door this machine will fit through when folded up?

Head is just under 29" wide.

#12675 2 years ago
Quoted from Beamer2007:

What if the machine is flipped so the head is on the side, then how wide is it?

With the head folded I believe the unit is wider on the side (> 29"). I think the exact width has been posted somewhere else in this thread.

10
#12692 2 years ago

I know there's been a lot of chatter about the flipper performance, but the more I play the more I've come to hate the flippers. Simple things like tip passes and live catches never work the way I expect. And lately when multiball starts, I'm getting phantom flips? Yes, yes, I know, adjust EOS, change the settings, bla bla bla. I just hope Spooky is listening.

#12696 2 years ago
Quoted from Zablon:

I really did have mine dialed in perfect prior to this latest update. But you are right, the ball does not react to the flippers like it does in other games. I thought it was due to the rubbers as they just don't seem to have much bounce to them.

I use super-bands which are very bouncy, but that's not the issue, with the latest code these flippers have a mind of their own!

#12698 2 years ago

.

#12727 2 years ago
Quoted from metallik:

Yea I played a GnR LE on location that couldn't get the ball all the way up to the UPF half the time. Not just a Spooky issue.

Flipper strength and fade is definitely an issue not unique to Spooky. But none of the other manufacturers have the wonky flipper behavior that R&M suffers from.

#12879 2 years ago
Quoted from klr650:

FYI, my machine had shipped with December code and it flipped great. So I was somewhat bewildered when I was recently switching back to "Original" flipper hold and getting such wonky results (flippers were collapsing non-stop). But after first setting to "Original" FOLLOWED BY A POWER CYCLE, the flipper hold is exactly what I remember from the December code!

Quoted from epthegeek:

It must not be reloading that coil setting when you exit the menu. I’ll get that fixed for the next release.

This is explains a lot. After the most recent code update and my flippers went from normal to wacky, I messed with the settings for an hour but could not find a good balance. Thankfully, klr650 solved the mystery! Tonight I set the flippers to "Original" with all other params at default, POWER CYCLED, and what do you know, the flippers are back to normal, which is so great!

Eric has expressed in recent posts his level of frustration. I get that, software dev is not easy, I know this to be true from experience. He says "try this to fix the problem" and we say "we tried that and it did not help" (paraphrasing). Thankfully this forum provides a sounding board so we can eventually get to the root cause. And then we can get back to playing pinball.

#12915 2 years ago
Quoted from Zablon:

Hmm, okay but how do you get 5 balls? Is it Grom+Meseeks and you can get an add-a-ball? Like I said, as far as I know I've never seen 5 come up before. Is there another MB mode?

That's correct, Grom+Meeseeks.

#12922 2 years ago
Quoted from northerndude:

Im struggling now with my flippers. My flippers have been great, I've had my pin for a long time, now they are getting funky with the new code. I went to the original setting and I hit multiball and they just started flipping themselves. dang. this kinda blows as my flippers have always been great until now

Quoted from BMore-Pinball:

same, flippers were fine until new code

After switching to the "Original" setting you need to power cycle the pin for it to take effect. This is a bug that Eric is aware of (and I'm sure will fix).

#12943 2 years ago
Quoted from fnord:

A couple people including I have had this. Widen the gap on your flipper SWITCH leafs. They can be close enough that the plunger firing causes them to touch and you get ghost flips.

This makes sense, but what's strange is I never had any phantom flips until the most recent code update and they stopped when I switched from "Default" to "Original" in the flipper setting.

#12995 2 years ago
Quoted from Exgametrader:

Maintaining a Rick and Morty that is on route (it’s absolutely killing it on quarter drop)
And it never seems to match looked all through the service menu’s and don’t see an adjustment to turn it on/off or adjust the match%. Is there something I’m missing?

There's definitely a setting to turn on/off the match feature because I just turned mine off the other day. I'm guessing there's also a match% setting, but I didn't look for that.

#13013 2 years ago
Quoted from Helixthree:

At this point the game is now updated to 4.5.2021 ========Now the flippers SUCK! ===Not equal, not even resetting properly, mostly the right flipper. Weird its sounds like it would have not been affected by a code update if it was just 'wonky' EOS springs etc but frankly, I expected more than half a photocopied page as my holy tome of understanding...

Go into settings and change the "Flipper Hold Pulse Pattern" to "Original", reboot (new setting won't take effect until after reboot), and see if that helps.

#13057 2 years ago
Quoted from Chisox:

So I’d like to ask all the Mortys who have scored 100 mil plus , where are you raking all these points? Is it megaseeds? I can’t break the 40-50 mil plateau and since I’m playing alone and the second I look up at the screen while playing I drain, I can’t figure out how to break the 100 mil mark. And please don’t start talking about your flippers because I’m not sure I can handle any more.

For crazy high scores, you need to rack up a lot of seeds (20+), then stack Grof MB with Meeseeks MB, and then hit the jackpot shots with the 2x/3x/4x Meeseeks (blue, not purple). Personally I've never succeeded in doing this lol, but I've watched my son do it multiple times with scores over 200mil and 300mil.

#13073 2 years ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Huh??? I see everyone backhanding it.

Depending on the right flipper alignment (higher from the marker hole), you may be able to backhand flip the right ramp, but as northerndude mentioned above, Scott did not expect that would be possible. No way the left flipper could ever backhand flip the left ramp.

As for your issue with the left ramp, I had the same problem early on. My right flipper was not binding in any way and there was good vertical gap on the shaft in the bushing (Spooky support recommended 1/8", but that seems like a lot to me). I could barely make the left ramp with a cool coil (less than 15 minutes play time), and it required a perfect shot. After the coil heated up, the left ramp became impossible. So for me the solution ended up being an entire new flipper mech (provided by Spooky). I have no idea what was wrong with the original mech, maybe it was just a bad coil? But with the new mech the left ramp is trivial to make, even after flipper fade. There's just so much more power in the flipper. I still think the power fade makes the game harder the longer you play, so I decided to add fans to the flippers for consistency throughout the longer games.

#13137 2 years ago
Quoted from Dreadreaper:

I think it's fantastic that Spooky is adding more modes to the game. Has there been any word on if more modes are coming and potentially a wizard mode? I know there is love potion mode when you collect all the stamps, but that just seems like a regular mode to me. Maybe one that also starts a multiball?

Charlie mentioned in a recent Final Round Pinball podcast that Spooky was intending to include a wizard mode (and is sounds like they had it planned out) but Adult Swim did not want it.

#13206 2 years ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Also, I forgot the order I took the screws out, so I don't know if the longer screw goes in the left or right.
Anyone?

I think the short screw goes on the left, but I'm not 100% sure. Basically the short screw needs to go on the side with the subway underneath. If you put the long screw there it will protrude into the top of the subway and stop the ball.

#13247 2 years ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

So I accidentally stumbled upon a neat USB light that I bought for fun, and I just realized it is identical to the ship in this machine. I put them right next to each other and they really look identical...has to be the same manufacturer.[quoted image][quoted image]

As far as I recall, that product is exactly what Spooky used (modified) for the pin. I purchased one also!

#13353 2 years ago

Coding to build a software end-product is hard. Coding to drive a well-defined hardware system can be even harder. Now make that hardware system totally random (metal ball(s) and dozens of switches) and I can't even imagine the complexity. As others have said, and I totally agree, Eric is doing an amazing job. That being said, he's still a Spooky employee and we are Spooky customers, and he should consider that relationship when venting his frustrations imo.

#13522 2 years ago
Quoted from RobT:

I'd love to know the story behind Spooky putting the black flipper bats and rubber on your game.

"Who ordered the black flipper bats?"
"Not me."
"What should we do?"
"Eh, put them on, nobody will notice."

#13635 2 years ago
Quoted from nogoodnames222:

Idk why some of the BSEs seemed to wear so bad but if yours looks that mint still, I'm not gonna bother with mylar unless I notice an issue developing.

Probably depends on the player(s), some are tappers, some are slappers, and some just press the flipper buttons. I decided to go with this solution because it looks cool! https://www.hookedonpinball.com/store/p161/Rick_and_Morty_pinball_mod.html

1 week later
#13967 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

All that said, I STILL have no idea why they thought going with a thinner playfield was a good idea.

I recently listened to a pod cast with George Gomez who was talking about playfields leaving the factory perfectly flat but then warping during transit or storage. This would be even more likely with a thinner pf. I'm sure Spooky was aware of all this and maybe the decision was financial or they felt it was a better quality? At least the ink isn't delaminating (cough, cough... GnR... cough).

1 month later
#15154 2 years ago
Quoted from Jigz:

Email Spooky, I am sure they would toss you a better looking one in the mail.

Agreed, Spooky will replace that no problem!

#15225 2 years ago

I know this has been discussed in the past but I still can't seem to dial in the scoop. I've lowered the mech with washers, added rubber tubbing along the entry rails, and tried bending the hood forward and backward, but we still get rejects on average 3 out of 4 shots? Any other suggestions?

#15238 2 years ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

Mine is basically as shipped. Washers under front from factory. Has a playfield protector, which I guess might change things somehow (but it is not even 1/32" thick). Works a treat, rarely get rejects.
What is your flipper power at?
Have you played with the main flipper power set to like 26?

I'm pretty sure my lower flipper strength is set to the defaults, I'll have to check.

#15287 2 years ago
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:

As promised. On freeplay at pinfest this weekend. Set a high score to drive me nuts for years!
[quoted image]

I'm assuming the adult language has been set to zero

#15313 2 years ago
Quoted from angus:

Is this screw supposed to be here? It looks like it was holding down the house, but is just screwed into the backboard graphic, not really even into the wood. I took the house off to get access behind it and see this. You can see the indentation in the house up and to the right where the screw hits.

On mine (#234) the screw is painted black to better blend in. Still looks like a hack, but you don't see it normally so no big deal.

#15314 2 years ago

Played R&M at Pinfest (Allentown PA) today. This was the first time I played one other than our own. It was dialed in pretty nicely, but unfortunately the right horseshoe target was not working so Glomflomite multi-ball was not possible. Regardless, everyone who lined up to play seemed to like the pin.

#15474 2 years ago
Quoted from monitorpop:

Bummer. I really hate the idea of drilling into my playfield.

If you drill a new hole, just make sure it's not too close to the original hole. The other option would be to remove the rail and use a file to extend the hole in the bracket so there's some additional adjustment. Problem is the screw head will eventually hit the rail so you'll only gain maybe 1/8". This is what I did and it was enough to improve the shot.

2 weeks later
#15808 2 years ago

Running the latest code I had the Start Multiball and Start Adventure insert LEDs, plus all the LEDs under the horseshoe go out. Opened up the pin and went into test mode and checked the LED board connectors, but all seemed fine. Finally just decided to reboot and the LEDs were back on, strange. Never happened before latest code update but could also be a coincidence.

1 week later
#15925 2 years ago
Quoted from toddsolus:

Hey all...I lost power on my right side solenoids. Flipper ,sling,eject,etc..
where are the fuses located? so I found the fuse....tiny little thing...I just can't read what size fuse it is...because I am old and blind..
someone can help me?
Thanks

T4 250v

I've had the fuse blow twice now, once on the left side and once on the right. Both times as I removed the fuse it slipped out of the puller and fell through the hole into the cabinet. First time I spent and extra 45 minutes searching and eventually found it under the high-voltage circuit board (which I had to remove). second time I searched again for like 45 minutes until I realized the pf was in the down position and the fuse probably fell into the house somewhere. Still haven't found it grrrr! Needless to say, I recommend covering the holes before pulling the fuse. Otherwise, if you're like me, it could drive you nuts knowing there's a dead fuse rolling about somewhere, waiting to short out some random circuit

#15954 2 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Gizmos:

Question: Why did Spooky change the lockdown bar/receiver hardware? Reaching around inside the cabinet for the two clip levers is a bit of a PITA. I looked through the key posts but didn't see any discussion of the change.
Anyone know?
Steve

I'm guessing it's just a cheaper and less complex mechanism.

2 months later
#16450 2 years ago

My R&M is perfectly dialed in except for the f'n scoop which rejects probably 50% of the shots. I've posted on this in the past and tried everything; bending the hood up or down, lowering the entire mech, adding hard foam in the back, adding rubber tubes to the left and right guide rails, but none of it helps. I've even taken slow motion video to see what's happening - the ball ricochets between the left and right scoop walls, and then back out. Any other suggestions?

#16482 2 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

post the video

I can't seem to find my video but here's basically the same thing I'm seeing;
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/67#post-5689714

1 week later
#16542 2 years ago
Quoted from Zablon:

The higher the battery level, the stronger the magnet action will be on the ball.

I'm not sure this is correct. The battery level drains as you hold down the magnet button, but the magnet power is always the same. A very low meter may seem like a weaker magnet, but that's just because you have a very short burst.

#16544 2 years ago
Quoted from Zablon:

I may be incorrect about that detail, but Scott upvoted my post so I would have thought if it was incorrect he would have called it out. I thought it was mentioned here before that was how it worked.

Can't argue with Scott I stand corrected!

4 weeks later
#16677 2 years ago

More callouts alone makes it worth while! Plus the flipper/antigrav fix. Push that baby out please!!!

1 month later
#17052 2 years ago
Quoted from The_Casual:

Sounds like a switch isn't getting depressed in your launch ball holder (what's this actual name?) - did you check those? It's not registering 1 of the 4 waiting to feed into the launcher.

Sounds like a bad or obstructed opto in the ball trough. From the switch test you should be able to see which opto is not registering.

Edit: I was wrong, Spooky uses micro switches with roll-overs in the ball trough.

#17054 2 years ago
Quoted from Zablon:

They are optos aren't they? Sounds like maybe one is out?

My thought also but Spooky uses switches with roll-overs in the ball troughs. Regardless, the problem is still mostly likely caused by a bad switch or maybe broken wire?

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 35.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
The MOD Couple
Toys/Add-ons
$ 300.00
Trade
$ 75.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Pinball Mod Co.
Toys/Add-ons
10,000 (Firm)
Machine - For Sale
Aurora, OH
$ 238.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Pinball Mod Co.
Toys/Add-ons
270 posts in this topic match your search for posts by arzoo. You are on page 1 of 2.

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider arzoo.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club?tu=arzoo and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.