(Topic ID: 257850)

Official Rick and Morty Club - You are not like other carbon based life forms.

By TheNoTrashCougar

4 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

106 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #256 Rules posted by Eric as of Feb 2020 Posted by epthegeek (4 years ago)

Post #510 R&M Options Posted by Morinack (4 years ago)

Post #589 Useful post for coin door comparison. Posted by NeilMcRae (4 years ago)

Post #637 More code rules - Adventures full lost Posted by epthegeek (4 years ago)

Post #745 Club thread reminder. Posted by TigerLaw (4 years ago)

Post #748 Cards for the game rules and what not. Posted by Coindropper (4 years ago)

Post #751 Darker outline for instruction cards. Posted by Coindropper (4 years ago)

Post #976 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Wireform ball launch and coil adjustment Posted by timmmmyboy (4 years ago)

Post #1006 TECH:Pitch recommendation from Scott. Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (4 years ago)


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#5155 3 years ago

#64 Just Shipped!
For the 2nd time that is(; - Super Stoked to join the club and start jumping through portals soon!! (& yes that dude on the right has a sweet mullet)

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1 week later
#5359 3 years ago
Quoted from gliebig:

[quoted image][quoted image]

I just got my machine in today and was going to install the green Britebuttons I got to have them pulsing, but ended up playing it too much! Looks great! Scott had emailed back from PBlife and you have to get the additional power board to do it, but was worth it cause I plan to install some other lights.

Has anyone added a playfield spotlight and if so where? It seems a little dark in the middle and just wondering what has worked for others, not pinstadium just one or maybe two spots. Thanks!

#5368 3 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

I like that they pulse and such, but wouldnt an orbit of lights be ideal? I think zitt made them for ST right? Maybe we can get him to make a couple 100 sets...lol
https://flic.kr/p/7j2okP

And you get that inspirational music every time you look at the flipper button nice!

#5395 3 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

I would use the little LED spotlights Stern has been using lately. Almost no bulk and very bright. You could easily hide them in some 3D printed crap to keep the visual continuity.

What are these lil Leds you speak of, haven’t seen them in any ‘19 games? And I can’t wait to goto the 3D crap shop!

#5412 3 years ago

When you hit the right orbit and the diverter sends the ball around the spinner loop is the ball supposed to send to the upper right flipper? Mine always bounces off the metal guide a few inches above the right flipper and doesn’t feel right... Just wondering if anyone/everyone else’s does this or do I need to adjust the guide on that left loop? Thx

#5415 3 years ago

Here's the britebuttons and a crappy short video, of course there's several other modes and speed/brightness settings to play with.
Also I very scarily broke off the tall middle Whirly Dirly yellow piece from the track rails on this cool Mod Couple mod and then re-glued it 'backwards' and installed it opposite of the instructions. I thought it turned out cool being able to see Rick and it flows nice with the ball coming down the same direction as the roller coaster.

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#5417 3 years ago
Quoted from j_m_:

I feel like a noob, but where is an image and proper documentation on how to update my game?
I'm assuming that I just copy the latest .pkg file and put it on a usb flash drive but which port does the flash drive go into? (an image on the spookypinball website would have been nice).
is there anything else that I need to do? (just cycle the power with the usb flash drive plugged in and the update will automatically occur? again, this information should be listed on their support page.

Just google spooky pinball software update and you’ll get a youtube

But basically dload it onto usb with nothing else on it, put usb into any of the open usb inputs in the backbox on the right while the game is on, it will auto detect & update on its own super quick, turn game off pull stick out turn game on done.

#5438 3 years ago

I know there was one or two pics of the topper lit up, but I did it last night and thought a side by side would show how much difference one 4in strip makes! The camera makes it look like there’s a white circle but in person it looks perfect.

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#5492 3 years ago

Got the scoop lit blue feels cool but I’ve got a slow color changer in the mail can’t wait to swap it in. Did a blue on the magna save button & might try a few different colors on it, but I think it looks cool having the two flippers pulsing green and the mag sav a different solid color. A soft purple chip led in the trough worked out just had to put one of those matrix in-line dimmers on it from Comet to dial down the brightness so no flipper shadows. Added two spotlights in about the same spots FatPanda did and he’s right it adds just the right little extra light to the pf. Also a color changer led strip all the way around the bottom edge of the cabinet, it was a good RaM lunch break from life’s bs!
Still going to add a slow color changer to the portal scoop feed to the left flipper and tap a green led strip off the topper flasher and put it under the cab to flash on the floor/my feet when the portals open, cause it seems my eyes never make it up to the topper when it’s happening!

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#5502 3 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Wubba lubba dub dub!!! 162 is in the house!
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B11GDZLe8GTB5yF
I took a few live photos and a 4k walkaround video to try and show off the butter - it really is stunning in person. ZERO regrets on that.
The sound system in this game is the best I've heard in a pin - awesome bass. Unfortunately this translates into massive, and I mean MASSIVE glass rattle.
I'm about to try padding it with some fuzzy velcro - anyone else run into this and have words of wisdom?

If you have the option I highly recommend the 10in external Polk sub route, jump the external off the internal sub then you have to turn the sub dial on the amp almost all the way down, but now you have as much bass as you could ever want from the external without the cab/glass rattle. That amp pushes so hard even with the bass dial almost at zero my external still hits harder than any other pin I’ve put on it. You can’t wipe the grin off your friends faces when you crank it up and drop that plunge!

#5672 3 years ago

Here's a final round of lighting fun, pics of purple frosted strips on left and right undersides of the backbox- lights up the cool hinges and adds some nice purple light to part of the artwork in a dark room. 8in green strip on the back facing the wall to compliment the green speaker lights during attract mode & puts off a nice green backbox glow.
Put a color changer in both scoops, short vid of that below, I think it looks great in the main scoop, but the lower left one doesn't make as dramatic of an effect because of the closer proximity and angle you have to put the bulb. I ended up putting a blue in there for now to have a nice blue glow from the hole, pic of that below, & put the color changer on the magna save button it looks cool.
Tapped a 1ft green 12v strip off of one of the topper green flashers and put it on the bottom of the cab between the speaker and the front. It adds a nice flashing effect whenever portal is lit and you can see vid of it during attract mode below. Its a helpful notification around your feet that the portal is lit if you're busy looking down, however until everyone gets better at hitting the portal it might cause too much epilepsy and fall into the category of one of those bad good ideas!?(: Anyway its been fun adding some extras to an already amazing game, but its going to be even more fun now just playing!!

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#5685 3 years ago
Quoted from Jherre6:

What kind of color changing LED/Socket does one use to light up the scoop? Do you have a photo of it mounted? It looks super neat!

Here’s the two scoops with the 555 sockets mounted, used a 555 flex slow color changer bulb from Comet, the main scoop up top I used an arm extension I had from Mezelmods to be able to get the socket with flex bulb in the right spot to shine up the scoop. On both I just used an existing screw on the scoop hardware.

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#5738 3 years ago

What flipper power are people using for the lower right flipper?
Also when I get GromMb and the targets drop down they bounce the balls back up into the loop before they fall down, but the video of other machines I’ve seen shows the balls both fall strait down at the same time, just wondering if mine came with the drop target coil settings high or something... Thx

#5748 3 years ago

I guess everyone’s lower right flipper setting is top secret, maybe I should’ve posted a puppy picture along with the question!?
As for rubbers I agree the translucent ones that came with it are perfect for the light shows & just opted to accent my flips. I think the bottom two could change every few months just to keep it fresh and fun...

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#5799 3 years ago

Lower right flipper going limp, sometimes taking two presses to flip, sometimes just flickering and sometimes nothing. I didn’t get any replies when I asked what coil power settings ppl are using but I sure would like any help with this cause changing the coil settings for it or the hold power aren’t doing the trick. Thanks for any help!

#5814 3 years ago
Quoted from Manic:

Might be a physical issue with the long reed switch that contacts the right flipper button in the cab. Been a lot of discussion about it already including cutting it down and adding a NF-style clear disk to reliably work with the flipper button. Scott made sure they were available at PL if people wanted to go that route.

Thanks for your reply, I was looking for some more explanation so that was helpful. I recently have seen some talk about eos issues but that’s not my problem, now I remember seeing some posts a while back about a clear disc. It's not an issue of the flipper getting hit and going weak, its just not firing until the second button press or only half firing etc...I’ve got machine #64 and everything seemed to have been dialed in by the previous owner, but this issue just came out of nowhere yesterday so any/all help is great, THX

#5838 3 years ago

Ok lighting mods round 3, another satisfying lunch break! Added some green fromunda lighting to the portal gun, stuck a pcb chip light to the underside of the gun and it lights up the plunge lane nicely and gives a cool effect of green glow around the gun. Added a few lights to that really dark back area of the table by putting blue lights behind the left ramp exit and right side return, some people may like it all dark back there but I like seeing the ball leave and the speed on it when it comes back in. Also put a 4in warm white led strip across the underside of the backbox centered over the house, put a dimmer on it and dialed it down real low, it brings out all the definition in the roof and the house, and I think it adds nice depth to the table.

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#5944 3 years ago

Mini Wizard Mode idea:

There’s been a lot of Adventure and Dimension ideas so I figured this could be a different mini-mode idea that’s always available. Just thought I’d float it out there to see if any interest.

Jest: A loop mode that qualifies after you hit 4 consecutive loops from the upper right flipper and starts on your 5th consecutive loop. Basically upon hitting the 4th loop in a row the spinner could trigger a different sound that lets you know you’ve crossed over into the mini-wizard mode, then each time you hit one more consecutive loop than before the spinner makes a more dramatic amped up sound and a hurry-up shot is lit somewhere on the table. A ‘high score’ award could be added at the end of the game to enter your name for the most consecutive loops to date.

More Details: The hurry-up shot could be a rover target that is somewhere different each time, noticeable by that insert strobing white for X amount of seconds to collect. It could be points, or light Mystery or Portal, or something different each time leading up to an extra ball hurry-up on the 8th consecutive loop and again at 12 etc… The hurry-ups for each consecutive loop after 5 could all stay lit for X amount of time from when they were qualified, so for example: if you got to 7 loops and fell out you could have 3 hurry-ups lit to try and get one/some before they disappear… you would weigh out risk/reward deciding which one to go for by the ease of the shot and if it was lit first or last if you think you have time to get it before it goes out (the insert light could get faster as time is up). The spinner sound would be noticeably different and something that revs up & pumps the player as they’re holding on for life trying to get one more consecutive loop. A quick light pulse and shaker vibration could go along with each consecutive spinner rip like a wave/explosion of light from the spinner outward.

Theme: This is just a fast paced & very short mini-wizard mode idea that won’t last seconds until you can master the pin-zen needed to get past 5 consecutive loops, and even then you will fall out any second after that and try for the hurry-up(s), so not really much theme integration needed.
That said it wouldn’t want to interfere with an Adventure theme (or future ones), and I’m sure the Spooky team could come up with a way to incorporate anything needed in a cool way.
One idea I had was the spinner sound could be Slow Mobius S1e11 ~15:04 when Rick says “Hit me with the clock beam!” and he does a fast turntable spin sound, and each consecutive loop/spinner rip could be Scott doing a crazier super sonic turntable spin sound that gets more intense with each loop.
So maybe it could be “The Rick Dance Turnaround”? or The Rick Dance Wizard Mode.. There’s 7 steps in the Rick Dance song so after you qualify the mode on the 4th loop then starting on 5 there could be 7 hurry-ups to possibly get one/some depending on how far you get each time, that means it would take getting all the way up to 12 consecutive loops to master the Rick Dance, which at that point your hand would most likely spaz out!!
I’m sure there are better integration ideas than what I just tossed out there but I was just trying to get the acid juices flowing!..

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#5963 3 years ago

Flash Gordon Dimension:

Red hue lighting, audio changes to an 80's synth sound and every switch hit on the table continuously takes the sound up in pitch, get ready to rip the spinner and hear the 1980 version of a Queen guitar solo in a pin!

#5964 3 years ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

I hope “holding over” stamps makes it in...I think the nature of it really lends itself to something like that.

I thought the TNA style co-op mode someone suggested was a great idea too, so a group of friends could all try and complete the card together.

#6032 3 years ago
Quoted from xfassa:

I am seriously considering it. Still need to figure a few things out. For now, I get the power from clipping onto the coin door lights. This method makes its simple for those wanting an easy/reversible mod. However, it also means the crystal lights are always on (and it is kind of bush league to connect this way). Honestly, even without the lights, it looks much better than the stock base (IMHO). Although, the blue lights really make it.
Anyway, if anyone is interested, just PM me. I will let you know soon if I decide to make a run of them.

Looks great man, if you decide to make more available you may want to look into just putting one of these 2in led strips along the bottom of it if the base is wide enough, maybe the ice blue, or blue, and it should light it all up without having to make the custom dual light strands https://www.cometpinball.com/products/lighting-strips

Also when I'm at my machine tomorrow I'll look but if the blue flasher that's on the stock death crystal is just a flasher bulb (and might be because its not rgb) then if its a 12v flasher you might be able to get those 2in led strips in 12v and tap onto it, so that your crystal only comes on when the factory crystal does. Of course you would want to look into this in detail and maybe check with Scott, but that probably wouldn't put any kind of voltage strain on the game if its just flashing whenever the factory crystal flashes, and might look stock all the way around.

#6119 3 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Two more tips for dialing in your pin:
1) Spooky really has the game loops sorted for their recent builds, but today I discovered a way to dial in the inner orbit even more and it's so smooth. My pin is flowing so smooth now, it's like the love child of Iron Maiden and Attack from Mars. Check this out...

Yes after a month of settling in on the code I realized that upper loop shot gave me that BK2K feeling and started going for consecutive loops and loving it! I'm at 5 currently so now I've got to beat 6 Mine was already looping pretty good but now I want to check that switch out just to make sure, THX.

I'm hoping we can get a high score initials award for most consecutive loops added at some point to add some fun/competition for who can get the most loops!

#6251 3 years ago

Yes it’s already in there, it’s the best one to put somebody else’s name in if you get it and want to mess with them((;

#6255 3 years ago
Quoted from guitarded:

URMOM
on the location machines

Hah yes nice one, several times I’ve put a different buddy’s name in there then text a pic to them of their new award(;
Haven’t worked up the courage to do that to my wife yet tho

1 week later
#6450 3 years ago
Quoted from gac:

I'm sure it is posted somewhere in here as I'm sure others have experienced it but I can't locate it. I've found in a couple of games that the bottom right flipper will stop working in the middle of a game and yet the upper flipper still works when the flipper button is pressed. After several presses, the lower flipper might flutter a couple times when pressing the button and then it comes back to normal. Anybody have this happen and is there a known fix? BTW I just got the machine and it is running 8/26/20 code. Thanks in advance.

I had a similar issue, the leaf switch for the lower right flipper somehow relaxed a little and the gap between contacts was bigger than the left flipper’s leaf switch gap, just took a flathead and gently pushed it closer together (without touching) and it’s hit fine ever since, easy fix

#6460 3 years ago
Quoted from gac:

Thanks for reaching out. Did you experience the upper flipper activating with the lower flipper not? I'm thinking that the upper flipper blade couldn't be touched unless the blade for the lower flipper makes contact, no?

Yes the upper flipper was working great but the lower right one was intermittent and got weak and sometimes would only half flip or not flip at all etc... just close the gap a little on the long leaf that the flipper button touches, but make sure it’s not touching when at rest, and then test it out, easy fix and you should be good to go

#6477 3 years ago
Quoted from gac:

Understood and will check it out. Thanks

Awweee gees awww man, you you guys are like really over complicating this thing man... guess what, the upper flipper Can fire fine while the lower one doesn’t, the switches aren’t the other way around and the soldering isn’t messed up, just reduce the gap on the long leaf that the flipper button touches first like I noted in earlier post and you could be playing your game fine and enjoying it. If that doesn’t solve it then report back, but it sounds like you havnt even tried it yet

#6508 3 years ago
Quoted from gac:

I adjusted the switch yesterday and played a few games and it seemed fine. We'll see if it pops up in the future. I was able to to test the "stage flip" and actually could get the upper flipper to activate without activating the lower flipper which confirmed the need to adjust the leaf for the lower flipper. Man it is such a tiny adjustment.

Awesome man, I know it’s a great feeling to have that ship back online and jumping through portals proper!

2 weeks later
#7152 3 years ago
Quoted from arzoo:

I'm curious if anyone has measured their flipper coil voltage (in the up position)? I'm getting 12v which I've been told by Spooky is wrong. I've posted a few times before about the strength of my lower flippers being very weak. Making the left ramp to the top is almost impossible and a backflip to the right ramp is doable, but just barely. Each time I've made an adjustment (EOS switch, flipper angle, etc) it seems to be slightly better but I think it's just a placebo effect lol. I've also confirmed the coil stop and sleeve are fine, and the flipper shaft is not binding. Changing the coil settings makes little difference; I have the right flipper set to max (49). Anyway, Chris at Spooky is working with me (via email) to resolve the issue and has told me 12v is not right, but he didn't mention what the correct voltage should be?

I'd be interested to find out what you hear back from Chris. I've had issues with my lower right flipper being weak, adjusting the leaf switch stopped some intermittent half flips and fixed a little bit of strength, but its still never been strong enough to trap the ball and be able to hit the right ramp. Anything over 40 on my coil strength doesn't seem to change anything and my hold is set to medium with 6.5 pitch.

#7172 3 years ago

Season 4 has finally dropped on Hulu! I can’t wait to start watching it and I wonder if this means any new S4 content for the code is approved/released this week!?!???

#7174 3 years ago
Quoted from northerndude:

Season 4 has long been aired, this should be nothing new for content

There’s been discussion about how Adult Swim wouldn’t allow Spooky to release S4 content until the S4 DVD’s came out, so finally dropping the whole season on Nov 1 on Hulu (and HBO I think) is potentially reason for content to be approved for release. Charlie also said something in that podcast to the effect of some cool stuff possibly already done but waiting to be unlocked/turned on, so again maybe they’re just waiting for Adult Swim to say OK...

#7176 3 years ago

Yes I was just using that as an example. Charlie noted how particular AS is with the the approval process and for materials to be released etc... So if AS wouldn’t let Hulu or HBO release the whole season until a certain date then it’s reasonable that they could be holding back Spooky in certain materials until a certain date. He also mentioned something big for the R&M camp to come soon while he was discussing the content approval process. Listen to the podcast and see what you think it’s somewhere before the halfway point.

2 weeks later
#7794 3 years ago

Speaking of dimensions, Eric or Scott could we please normalize that one scream that’s louder than all the other screams in the scream dimension?
We run our game at a fun/loud volume and that one scream’s extra decibels hit harsh at the louder levels. THX!

#7797 3 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

There is literally only one scream in the scream dimension. "The Wilhelm Scream". Any additional SFX must be coming from the player.

Groups of us playing our machine have all heard the louder one, not just me drinking by myself lol. I was wondering how one could be louder if it was just programmed to sub 1 audio file for all switches, because it doesn’t occur from one particular switch, but it’s like every X amount of screams we get one that’s way louder. I don’t understand it we just hear it, maybe our game is ‘special’

23
#8026 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Im comitted to routing my game in the spring.
I reading about some sporadic odd behaviors and taking notes.
Is this game robust enough to go on route?
Any advice from operators is much appreciated.
Since its P3-roc Im thinking of supplying a variac for stability.

Two weeks ago I started a temporary pinball parlor in the band room at one of my bars since we're not having bands and nobody had been hanging out in that room this year. R&M is pulling more quarters than the other 6 machines, eyeballing/lifting the coin box I'd say its got $150-200 in it, I just haven't run the audits or counted because I plan to do that first of the month. It's among Tron, Guardians, Star Wars, Aerosmith, Deadpool & Monster Bash SE, so its in good company and still pulling the most.
It's locked up once over these two weeks and its on 10-12 hours a day 7 days a week. So thats once more than any of the other pins, but not bad when you compare it to two other games in which balls got stuck and stopped play for X amount of time. It was a simple recycle of power and it was fine again, thats actually easier than pulling glass to get a stuck ball and any mgr can handle that without knowing their way around pulling glass.
The coin mechs that came with it have worked great.
The clear rubbers get beaten up especially on the posts so just be sure to have another set on hand.
Monday night I went down planning to finally just play it for a couple hours with two of my managers who were off duty and the first game my buddy was on a 13mil run and the car/ship plastic broke. My other mgr's jaw dropped and he looked at me and said Holy $hit why are you not freaking out right now!? I told him I had already picked up a replacement plastic from Pinball Life sitting inside the coin door cause I had kept up with the threads and knew this was probably inevitable! Luckily I was only on beer two - under my 3 beer limit to pulling the glass off(: so I changed out the part and we got back to playing and having a blast!

Note that even though it looks like 4 screws that should take 4-5 mins it took me more like 45 mins. I slowly realized I had to take the whole plastic section off under the car/ship to be able to undo the lock nuts for the broken part, then that required pulling the right ramp to get to a nut, then realized there was one more nut hidden under the house, then unscrewed the right side of the house...as this went on my buddy commented on how Spooky must've known it would take more work to get to this part and thats why they printed all the tools on that plastic piece under the car/ship hahaha(: Also I didn't have to pull the left ramp or left side of the house, if you have a 90 degree needle nose you can just unscrew the right side of the house and hold it up an inch while you slowly work that hidden nut off. I read at some point in the threads to not completely tighten the two locknuts on the "hinge" side of the new piece, so I left those two a little loose to create less pressure on the side thats prone to break. I'm sure it can be changed out quicker but when you're just figuring it out for the first time and sipping on a beer better to go slow.

Everyone is talking about R&M and bartenders at other bars have seen it on our social media and are also coming to check it out and its definitely a hit! We're 21 and up so profanity is 100%, I extend ball saves as long as I can and increase muiltiball times & charge .50c/game, so everyone has the best chance to have fun. But really Rick does the greatest job keeping people coming back cause the worse somebody plays the harsher he is and the more they laugh and put more quarters in!
Anyway thats my experience so far of having it out in public the last two wks if that helps any.

#8083 3 years ago
Quoted from Our_Man_in_Oz:

So number 354 in the house, picked up from Mark's warehouse yesterday. Everything was in great condition, I wasn't exactly stoked but it sounds like this is par for the course for us O.S. Spooky owners who don't have a real distributor to do the Q.C. on the way through.
[quoted image]

Mine had this message when I first received it from being shipped. Ended up being a cable pulled in the back right bottom corner of the cabinet, I guess from the harness stretching a tad tight to the head after backbox was lowered for shipping. I had looked over the entire pin and couldn’t find anything loose/wrong but upon looking again I found this one little guy unplugged and hiding from me down in there. Hope you locate it!

#8270 3 years ago
Quoted from Our_Man_in_Oz:

Spot on there, I finally got back to it just now. As soon as I had a decent look around in the back of the cabinet I soon discovered the culprit, one single connector disconnected on the power distribution board next to the power supply. Game fired straight up. I levelled it and played a first game. Was really happy with the how everything played, interesting shots a and some nice flow around the top of the playfield. Look forward to many more games soon as I load the latest code.

Man that's literally the first thing that stood out to me the big rattle. I am going to have look at mine today as well.

Awesome!! On the bass I also already had a Polk external sub and hooked it up day 1 and it’s amazing. I did play around with the internal sub first and experienced everything talked about in the threads. But if you can swing it hook up an ex sub and never look back! Enjoy watching your friends jaws drop to the bass in this audio package - ex sub $100, total enjoyment and look on your friends faces - priceless((;

#8377 3 years ago
Quoted from gac:

Did you just connect wires to the sub connectors and run directly to the external sub? I'm wondering if you did anything other than that. I'm looking to hook up an external sub as well and don't want to mess anything up. Thanks

Yes just alligator clips to the internal sub and wire directly to the external, this leaves you a little of the bass feel in the cabinet but all the sonic boom going on from the external. No damage/issues to amp or powered sub. You can of course bypass the internal sub completely if you want to hook the external directly to the amp in place of the internal, but not necessary.

1 week later
#8945 3 years ago
Quoted from LouMatt:

Yeah they all seem pretty tight. The new plastic definitely has some reliefs cut into it, so hopefully it does better. Swapping this thing out seems way more painful then I was expecting so I think I need to step away from it for the night and play some other games.

It happened to me a couple weeks ago here’s a few notes about it midway through this post...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/161#post-5981107

4 weeks later
#9799 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

This was the repair I did to my RM when I first got it. I’ve never had anymore flipper issues with the lower right flipper after making this repair. I’m over 600 games in on my machine.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/153#post-5962051
This is also one of the key posts on this thread.

I can back up Pinball-Obsessed 100%, I did a variation of his solution and took 2 mins and hit more left garage shots in the first test game than in the previous 10 games probably, not to mention lower right flipper strength consistency.
My mgrs told me "the right flippers died", so I went down planning to install the no fear disc because I had already tried to adjust the leaf and power numerous times. The no fear disc wouldn't work cause I had installed a light on my magnasave button that was going to be in the way. So instead of moving the light I cut two zip ties and got some gorilla ductape and without taking anything out applied them to the leaf upside down from the key note suggestion, I turned the game on and still nothing on my right flippers. Looked at the lower right flipper coil and one of the wires soldering had broken, soldered it back on and played a test game and holy crap it was pure power to both right flippers! Its had a few hundred games since then and still works like a charm.
Just snip 2 zips tape them without getting in the way of the flipper button hitting the factory plastic leaf, and re-adjust your leafs to make proper contact.

IMG_3409 (resized).PNGIMG_3409 (resized).PNGScreen Shot 2021-01-11 at 10.43.47 AM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2021-01-11 at 10.43.47 AM (resized).png
3 months later
#13108 2 years ago

For those having issues hitting the left ramp and left garage shots, among all the other flippin things to check -don’t forget to try making sure your right flipper leaf switch is making strong contact.
We did a variation of the ‘zip tie solution’ and it’s been pure power upgrade ever since and instantly made both those shots 100% better

1 year later
#18080 1 year ago

What about a Flash Gordon dimension where every switch hit shifts the tone pitch up one interval, start with a super low bass synth tone… when that starts on FG and you rip the spinner it’s awesome, was supposed to be like a ‘Queen guitar solo’ when they did it(;

#18130 1 year ago

What about a Jerryboree! dimension where you're in the Jerry daycare, hitting the Jerry target X amount of times does something, and any/all Jerry lines that Justin did could replace any/all switch audio

#18134 1 year ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

Justin doesn’t do Jerry.

Aw gees that’s right, my bad, just seemed like a negative place to be stuck in

11 months later
#19835 9 months ago

Hey sorry to be a fu#%ing Jerry but is there any way the Family mode setting could be revisited one more time to catch all the potty words?(;
Been wanting to bring R&M home from the office but my kiddos are 2 and 4 now and I missed the window of them being oblivious to repeating stuff I laugh at. Even set to Never it still lets a lot slip through the curse cracks so just thought I’d see if the bleepologist could make one more mix. Thanks for any consideration!

#19837 9 months ago

Hey that’s great. Honestly I’m not trying to have a parental approach discussion, I’m just asking the dev team what I’m asking. The time was taken to make a swear/bleep meter that goes from 0-100 and it’s f#%ing cool, I’m just asking that the 0/Never be closer to 0/never for all those who would want that. I’m sure it’s a long shot but just wanted to ask.

#19849 9 months ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

Did you find someplace where the harsher stuff gets through? or are you one of those guys that wants "Damn" and "Hell" censored?

I didn't know we were getting put into curse camps lol. I was coming from the viewpoint that the swear frequency feature wasn't mission critical at launch so maybe some of the swearing, including 'soft swear words', was overlooked with regards to the Never setting. But maybe it's exactly how you want it.
I'm just one of those guys who loves your game and bought it in 2020, and now I have a 2yr old that's like a parrot and a 4yr old thats figuring stuff out. There's moms and other peoples kids that I have to consider when everyone wants to play pins, so the Never setting just seemed like it might've been for guys like me that now have to navigate this situation.

#19852 9 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

So you're concerned that someone might hear the word "shit", but not all that concerned about the limb severing, bludgeoning, close range laser shot kills, grotesque alien transformation, explosive headshots, portal skin evaporation, etc...
Yeah, in that list of things, "shit" is really abhorrent!

And here you are riding my post again why doesn’t that surprise me. I could explain to you that 2 and 4 year olds don’t get all that context in a pinball machine but do get the swear words, but you’d probably be happier if I liked your post for quoting all the call outs. I don’t care what goes on in the walls of the wizard castle and wouldn’t try to tell you how to run your show. I asked a fair and harmless question about a Swear Frequency setting that’s called Never. If you want to take anymore jabs at me send me a pm because nobody wants to turn an R&M thread into a Pinside parenting preferences discussion.

#19857 9 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

My post wasn't meant as a jab, so if it was taken as such, apologies.
It's more a humoured curiosity, considering the nature of this machine, and the nature of your question.

Ok fair enough, its Pinside so its my bad for thinking I could post a simple question about a setting and not have to get into a discussion with someone lol. I agree with what you're saying and know the machine isn't for kids or people that can't handle it.
The cartoon heads on TWD is hilarious and a great idea that got you through a little while it seems. The swear setting to 'Never' imo is similar to the cartoon heads, it's something that works in a brief window, maybe for a year or two depending on the age of kids, and maybe for an evening here or there with some guests. Trust me I'm not expecting it to make R&M a pg game and don't want that(:
I'm not trying to get into a hard vs soft swear word debate either, my thought was that as you got closer to Never it still let some of the 'soft swear' words through plus more bleeps, and then Never was total bleeps. So I was only asking about this and was willing to help identify outliers to add to the bleeps for Never.
At a certain point it may get into your 'towel phase' where the machine just isn't on around certain people and/or at a certain point it will just need to go back to my office etc.. because Yes the context is hilariously Adult and Not for the young or weary! But this feature offers an option to help navigate a few situations until that next phase.
Theres 750 of us Mortys out there and at some point X amount of us will be in this situation temporarily, and it seemed that's what the Never setting was for, complete bleeps. I normally keep it at 80% because I like hearing both the language and some bleeps, and I love that Eric put this feature in - its such a cool detail.
It seems that I'm not the only owner thats asked about this, so I don't see what the harm is in offering it since the framework is there. But again I was approaching this from a helpful perspective, not trying to create a life lesson perspective discussion, or piss anyone off.
I think you should start a new thread where people can list the things they've done to get a pin in their house starting with your cartoon heads, that would be a fun read. My first modern pin I got for my pad was a Tron while my wife was in New Zealand with some friends - before she came home I made a 'grid' looking decal and applied it over the left backbox side so that every time she walked through the room she wouldn't see Olivia Wilde's hot ass staring at her(:

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