(Topic ID: 257850)

Official Rick and Morty Club - You are not like other carbon based life forms.

By TheNoTrashCougar

4 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 20,225 posts
  • 743 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 minutes ago by N80G80
  • Topic is favorited by 333 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

106 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #256 Rules posted by Eric as of Feb 2020 Posted by epthegeek (4 years ago)

Post #510 R&M Options Posted by Morinack (4 years ago)

Post #589 Useful post for coin door comparison. Posted by NeilMcRae (4 years ago)

Post #637 More code rules - Adventures full lost Posted by epthegeek (4 years ago)

Post #745 Club thread reminder. Posted by TigerLaw (4 years ago)

Post #748 Cards for the game rules and what not. Posted by Coindropper (4 years ago)

Post #751 Darker outline for instruction cards. Posted by Coindropper (4 years ago)

Post #976 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Wireform ball launch and coil adjustment Posted by timmmmyboy (4 years ago)

Post #1006 TECH:Pitch recommendation from Scott. Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (4 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#13852 2 years ago

I am poking around pinside looking for a RM in Canada.

Anybody selling?

Screen Shot 2021-05-24 at 10.13.14 PM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2021-05-24 at 10.13.14 PM (resized).png
-1
#13882 2 years ago

great workaround, and I found this very interesting because this topic (flipper adjustment) came up when I was chatting with Stern support in regards to another issue I was having with a ball guide... Long story short if the flippers are too high it will cause the ball to roll glide differently and it affects gameplay...

So there is that, sorry for the unrelated comment ..sort of, but I want to congratulate the maker of this for taking the initiative and trying... and it paid off.

With that said, why are spooky PF thinner than the rest? sorry if that is not the issue, I did not read the rest of the thread.

#13908 2 years ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

I have a spare bracket, so replacing it isn't an issue.
But the two bottom screws look like they have pulled out on an angle and left a larger hole.
Would I need to do the toothpick trick to fix these?
Is there any concerns like splitting the corner of the cabinet if I leave it like this? The bolts are screwing in more (deeper) than the other legs, so I'm worried it's putting stress on that corner.[quoted image]

you will need to drill and fill those holes otherwise you will be wasting your time.
That bracket is bent and so are the screws unfortunately.

I have done this in the past so if you do not know how to do it, please let me know and I will try to help (can provide tips instructions).

Cheers

#13915 2 years ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

I'm going to take the bracket out tonight and hope the screw holes aren't compromised. If they are, I'll try to do the toothpick trick.
For the garage shot ball guide, it looks like you guys are removing the second and third screws (from the bottom), bending it a bit by hand, and then just screwing back the first screw?
Does that sound right?

The screws were screwed diagonally, and when you place a proper bracket there the hole will not line up and the screw will not have enough grab.

The tooth pick trick is really a hack and I think it might be a waste of your time in this scenario, the hole is just too big ..might as well leave it as is if that is your plan.

#13919 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

It's bent because there's no corner block support. Are all the legs missing that corner wood piece? I assumed it was a mistake...

Yup, they got ripped off as you screwed the leg on.
The torque created by the leg bolt bent it as you are tightening the leg down.

It is hard to fix the holes in the cab, these being the back legs I would screw a screw in all the way out to the back, and then redrill the hole and fill with a dowel. Cut the dowel flush and use a paint pen(black) on the outside, you will never see it.

You can try drilling from inside and fillibg the hole but it is super awkward, benefit is that the dowel will not be seen on the outside this way.

Either way first order of things is getting proper bracket support.

This is horrible workmanship by the way. I would get in touch with spooky

#13929 2 years ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

What can I put behind the bracket to reinforce it? Piece of Jenga???
I don't have any wood or tool for that K Nd of stuff, and with the machine up on a stool right now, I have to make a decision soon.
I'm so terribly disappointed with the quality of this game.
This will be the very last Spooky for me, but I still would like to get this fixed so I can actually enjoy it a little.

any shop that works with wood can create this piece.
with the measurements somebody with a bandsaw can make this in 5 minutes really.

#13936 2 years ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

No idea, probably scrap.
After nearly 2 months, I have almost all issues and modification done to the game so I can actually play it!
At least I know when I sell it, the next person won't have any issues at all to deal with.
On a side note, if anyone local to Toronto needs the X Spacer to lower their bushings, I'd be happy to 3D orint a set for you at no cost, and you can come pick it up.
Really good just b by the way with the 3D orint design. Love to see people stepping up and trying to help people in this community, rather than discounting their issues and telling them to suck it up.

what issues did you have?

#13972 2 years ago

If I had the ability to choose or both at hand, I would certainly choose a shorter bushing. I am all for a factory look.

#14070 2 years ago
Quoted from wayinla: 3. Anyone have these odd playfield marks? I didn’t notice these when I unboxed and checked the game. They’re only visible from certain angles, not from the player’s view. They aren’t raised or sunken and appears to be beneath the clear. They don’t distort when pressed. Hoping it isn’t some kind of separation of the clear and playfield and that it doesn’t get worse. Doesn’t affect gameplay.
[quoted image]

I have seen that before in automotive paint. In the shop it was fixed by blowing how air to the paint and also polishing.
You can try using a blow dryer and carefully blow how air the area while making sure you do not burn or melt anything?

Mind you, typically when we saw this type of paint defect it was typically moisture trapped under the paint, I am not sure how that would happen on a piece of wood as it is in this case... So the issue you have here might be totally unrelated.

I also thought it could be separating but not sure that is possible... Maybe contact Spooky and see what they say? maybe it is just a paint defect that reflects light in an particular way.

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