(Topic ID: 257850)

Official Rick and Morty Club - You are not like other carbon based life forms.

By TheNoTrashCougar

1 year ago

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Topic index (key posts)

83 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #256 Rules posted by Eric as of Feb 2020 Posted by epthegeek (1 year ago)

Post #510 R&M Options Posted by Morinack (1 year ago)

Post #589 Useful post for coin door comparison. Posted by NeilMcRae (1 year ago)

Post #637 More code rules - Adventures full lost Posted by epthegeek (1 year ago)

Post #745 Club thread reminder. Posted by TigerLaw (1 year ago)

Post #748 Cards for the game rules and what not. Posted by Coindropper (1 year ago)

Post #751 Darker outline for instruction cards. Posted by Coindropper (1 year ago)

Post #976 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Wireform ball launch and coil adjustment Posted by timmmmyboy (1 year ago)

Post #1006 TECH:Pitch recommendation from Scott. Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (1 year ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#12465 7 months ago

Maybe a stupid question -- I picked up a "No Fear" disc to help with the pressing on the right flipper switches. How are you attaching it to the flipper? Just screwing it in to the flipper button?

#12535 7 months ago

I'm not sure if Windows has a dedicated MD5 command, but CertUtil does work.

CertUtil -hashfile rm-gamecode-20210405.pkg MD5

Should be good enough to validate the hash Eric posted above.

#12553 7 months ago

Glad to hear it's working!!!!

#12571 7 months ago

Run in to a weird issue when doing some drop target/flipper troubleshooting. The game always seems to restart if I go in to the menus with a ball in the upper scoop.

- Start Game
- Lock ball in upper scoop (Start Adventure)
- Enter operator menus
- Scroll through a list of options (Say Settings for coils)
- Game restarts

Not a huge issue (don't enter menus with a ball in the scoop) but I can reproduce it every time on my game.

1 week later
#12693 7 months ago
Quoted from arzoo:

And lately when multiball starts, I'm getting phantom flips? Yes, yes, I know, adjust EOS, change the settings, bla bla bla. I just hope Spooky is listening.

This is the only thing I have left to troubleshoot. I can't figure it out. I have no phantom flips at any other time, but almost always at the start of multiball. I've checked all switches (EOS, flipper buttons, etc) but something is causing them. And I'm not talking about about intermittent flip. Last game I played it flipped the left flipper and held it up for a second or so without my hand near the button. I've kind of come to accept I won't have control of my flippers until 2-3 sec after multiball starts. I kinda wish there was a way to debug/write the switch history to the USB drive or logs so I could go back and see what switches are being triggered.

2 months later
#14762 5 months ago

Bought the spacers, have the updated bushings. Personally, the spacers were an easier install and I hate taking out the flipper bat/pawl/bushings -- as mentioned above, it's practically impossible to get it back even the first time through, and the pawls tend to have a limited life of on again/off again. I am very happy with the spacers as I'm getting the desired result with minimal effort.

When it comes time to rebuild the flipper mechs on the game, I'll take the bushings out and replace them with the shorter ones. I personally don't feel the need to do a rebuild-level of effort right now. I fully appreciate the bushings being the correct height is the "correct" fix and feels better, but I'm getting what I need now and I have what I need later.

Your mileage -- clearly, based on the variety of opinions already shared -- will vary. But I'm happy with my spacers.

1 week later
#14899 4 months ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Hey everyone, I wanted to give an early preview of my new "Ship Dangler". I came up with this idea because I've been through two "plastic springs" now. I firmly believe it is not a question of "if it will break" rather "when will it break".
What I'm trying to do is to create something that is simple to assemble, reliable and visually better than the stock version. I feel pretty confident that I have cracked the code, but I'll leave you all to decide.
Essentially what I've done is to "pinch" the existing plastic hole with a TPU flange I call the "wiggler". On top of that I have a part which copies the spooky clear plastic PETG design allowing for me to maintain the stock spooky aesthetic. Lastly, instead of using hot glue to hold the spring into the "funnel" I've created a lock which mates with the spring and allows for you to use one of the stock screws and lock nuts to hold the thing together. I am a big believer in being able to disassemble things without damage .
I'm going to post some pictures of the design and prototypes. I expect to print the final "wiggler" in transparent TPU in order to do my best to hide it and show off the artwork currently blocked by the plastic spring. If there is interest in this thing, I would be happy to record a couple of videos which try to detail how it works.
Overall the final product leaves you with a cleaner looking plastic minus the fact that you now have four unused holes cut into the plastic. Personally, I'd rather have the small holes in the plastic than the huge spring, but to each his own. Plus I figured if I opened up four holes in the middle of the playfield, other creative mod makers could come up with some cool stuff .
Let me know what you think.


But seriously, I'd likely pick one up for replacement when the next plastic breaks. I like the look of it. Any changes needed to the shaft length given that the wiggler sits lower?

#15021 4 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

How do you beat "Look Who's Purging Now".
I think it's the only one I haven't beat yet.

Off the top of my head: Purple shots will spawn on the far left and move to the right. Shoot shots before they get to the right orbit and purge Morty. The center loop is lit initially for grenade to destroy rightmost purple shot. Shoot enough purple shots and Summer target goes purple. Hit Summer to call Summer. After a period the scoop will light. Hit scoop to start a kind of victory lap mode and get green stamp.

3 weeks later
#15441 3 months ago
Quoted from MightyGrave:

i would like to report an strange behavoir with my R&M.
We played yesterday a two play game and the first 5 games all worked fine. During the last game the sound output was delayed and a little later the music was missing, but SFX continued to be played. After restarting the machine everything worked again.
Have any of you observed such behavior? Or does someone know what it could be related to?

I have seen this twice, once recently (yes most recent code).
I was in the coin door both times and wasn't quite sure if I caused it or, if not, the series of events to lead up to it. Either way, a quick power cycle fixed it both times.

#15477 3 months ago
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1 month later
#16049 71 days ago

My cabinet also had pilot holes were a normal switch would go. I just used those.

Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Also on the left hand flipper, the factory switches that you guys used only has two lugs, whereas the Stern replacement has four. How would I approach that?

Use a single contact instead of a double. Cut the diode off. https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-flipper-leaf-switch-single-contact.html

Edited to add if you already have a double contact switch just use one of the contact pairs.

#16052 71 days ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

So you switched to Stern switches?
If so, would you say there is a significant difference in the way the game feels? I would assume with the extra blades for tension, it will feel much better than the cheapo factory switches.

I did! I don't think the left flipper feels all that different, mine had a pretty decent feel to it before replacing. But I'm much, much happier with the feel and stage-ability (if that's a thing) of the right flipper after the mod. I didn't care for how it felt prior, and it did feel a little better after putting zipties in place but an adjusted stern switch felt much better (to me).

#16058 70 days ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Could you share a photo of it in the cabinet, and a close up of how you soldered the wires to the lugs.
Thanks so much!

Quick and dirty hand thru the coindoor, sure. I just matched wires to the existing lugs on the old switch one wire at a time. I won’t have a ton of time this week to lift the playfield (and I’m not unscrewing it to get a better view lol. I never want to touch this again)

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#16068 69 days ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Thanks for the photos brother!
Did you use the 3D printed base that the original switch was sitting on?
Also, what screws did you use?
It doesn't look like you had a lot of slack on those wires, which is sort of how my game is. I might just solder some wires to switch outside of the machine, and then connect the wire ends in the cabinet and put tubing on it.

Ended up using the same screws -- the stern switch thickness was roughly the same as the old switch with the 3d printed base on it. I didn't use the base and went right against the cabinet, adjusted for leaf height to the flipper (which lined up with those pilot holes for me). Good luck with your changeover!

1 month later
#16447 19 days ago

I'd be in for a Terry on the right side as well. Great work!

2 weeks later

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