Newport
Machine looks super fun.
(Topic ID: 257850)
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Rick and Morty (Blood Sucker Edition)
Spooky Pinball, 2020-
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1 week later
1 month later
About an hour into the stream and really enjoying it. Question for the programmer or Scott, is the lock fully programmed/taken advantage of yet? I'm sure when Scott talked about the number of things it could do ( on one of the podcasts ) with clever programming it sounded like it could do a lot more than it seems to be doing right now.
1 week later
Quoted from jonesjb:epthegeek are you exploring ways to use the horseshoe toy to manipulate a ball in different ways for modes? Or is it pretty much reserved for locks? I’m not sure how you could already be holding balls for multiball for the current or another player.
I asked basically this question a few pages back but it went unanswered.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/42#post-5594832
Did everyone watch IE Pinball's latest RAM stream? Karl's got his inner spinner loop flying, but he made more of a change to the rail than just removing screws, completely re-positioning it. He explains the changes he's made in the first few minutes of the stream.
1 month later
Quoted from Rarehero:It tints all the plastics colors yellowish-green. I don’t like that at all. For a game that has such crazy colorful light shows, the game doesn’t need its neutral art tinted. Hard pass, I’m going with clear protectors.
That's how I feel about protectors, clear for me in almost all cases. I bought a yellow set for IMDN but sent them back and got clear. It is nice seeing the glowing edges though, just depends what art is on the plastics.
What are these yellow flipper rubbers exactly? they're really bouncy. I have superbands on other machines and they aren't like this so I don't think they're superbands. I want to replace them but make sure i don't accidentally buy the same ones.
Quoted from Whysnow:https://www.passionforpinball.com/colorsleeves.htm
super easy. took like 3 min to swap out.
I bought like 100 of each color and keep them stocked for use
Are they the same diameter as the original posts?
Quoted from VALIS666:Is anyone still having a weak flipper hold problem? I'm not on the newest code but I believe I'm 06.01, which is after this was posted, and my flipper holds are weak. Hold any flipper up, roll a ball into them yourself at any decent speed, watch them sink halfway down.
Mine aren't as bad as you describe but my right flipper gets knocked down by the scoop eject every time. I received my machine on Monday, updated to latest code available then, hold strength to hard but still knocked down. Charlie said don't worry about it, it's being worked on. I'm not quite sure why it should be in an issue in the first place though, it's far from their first machine, or machines built with PROC. Makes catching the ball with a drop catch impossible, something I did all the time on TNA.
Quoted from TomGWI:We noticed this yesterday on our game. I let the ball dead bounce from scoop.
My son holds the flipper up to try and catch it. He was complaining the flipper was dropping. I took the glass off and checked the EOS switches which seemed fine. I then went held in the flipper button and gave the flipper a push with my other hand and it dropped back to rest. So I agree the hold power seems weak.
I also had a weird problem where the upper flipper randomly does not respond. Only happened maybe 3 times. I was going to check out flipper button today and see if it needs adjusting.
Are you sure your upper flipper issue isn't just one of the dimensions? There's one where the upper flipper is activated by the left flipper button.
Quoted from epthegeek:Part of the problem is (apparently) that my whitewood doesn't hit the flipper on a scoop eject - it hits the in-lane wall, so I don't have the same situation you guys do to compare it to. Obviously the short term fix would be to turn down your scoop eject power so it's not such a hard hit to the flipper.
I was originally controlling the flippers in the same way TNA did, but TNA uses different coils (which I had on my whitewood). When I got the right coils, I adjusted how the flippers were controlled and based on testing on my machine, the hold strength increased a decent amount, and the heat buildup was somewhat reduced.
I experimented with some other changes in the more recent beta builds (after 06.05) but ended up reverting those after feedback from testers said they weren't better.
If everything is working the way it's intended the game should increase the power to the flipper a bit when the EOS opens if the flipper button is still closed, for a short period of time, to get the flipper back into position. I will do some more experimenting on my end, and possibly make things more user adjustable.
One thing to check is make sure your EOS switches aren't opening too late in the down-stroke; I'm not sure how they're adjusted from the shop. They don't need to be super hair-trigger close to the end of the movement, but if they're not opening until the flipper is pretty far down the game probably isn't reacting fast enough. It may be that if the flipper is too far down by the time it tries to recover the power increase isn't enough (which would be where the user adjustable bit might help).
Thanks for that detailed reply, I'll check my EOS... But... That will only improve the flippers reaction when it's been knocked down, shouldn't they resist a knockdown in the first place?
Quoted from FatPanda:Added a couple short LED strips to the topper. The camera makes the LEDs wash out the artwork, but it doesn't in real life. Now you can see it even when the portal isnt active and in a dark room.
[quoted image]
Looks great, hard to tell from the photo but is the Led strip in front of or behind the front plastic of the topper?
Quoted from adamross:.. and I also had a bonus spare one also rusted floating loose around the cabinet.
It was probably mine, my machine came with 4, caused about 20 minutes of head scratching trying to work out why the machine wouldn't start 
Anyone else get the occasional random reboot? It's happened 3 times in the week I've had my machine. I understand you can dump log files to a USB stick? How do you do that?
It rebooted just now, first time on 06.19 code, other 2 times was on the previous code.
I'm also having a few infrequent flipper issues, sometimes either of my lower flippers can stick up, and I just had a definite no flip on lower right. I had originally thought the sticking up flippers was just the buttons sticking but I've changed those and it's still happening. Mechs move freely and are not catching on the eos blades or binding on the playfield bushing. I need to think faster when it happens to try to diagnose but I'm usually mashing buttons and they drop again.
Quoted from epthegeek:Put a blank usb stick into the game while it’s on and it will dump logs and settings to the usb drive. Then send the logs via email to either to me or spooky directly.
The sticking can happen if your EOS switches are adjusted to close too near to the end. You want them to close/open near the end of the stroke, but if you set them at the very extreme end where they just barely close you may end up with a flipper held randomly due to certain latency things we just have to deal with.
Thanks Eric, I'll get the log file to you shortly.
Bit gutted with the EOS answer, I only just adjusted them to deal with the knockdown issue, I hope it's not a case of having to deal with a little knockdown to not get the sticking flippers 
Quoted from Borygard:Of course. The roaming purple shot is the thug trying to purge Morty. The blue spinner loop shot is the grenade that kills the thug closest to Morty. And the pink right outer loop shot is Morty.
The roaming purple shot starts at the far left, and incrementally moves closer to Morty at the right if you don't make the purple shot killing the thug.
From epthegeek's Key Post on rules...
ADVENTURE: Purge
- On the purge planet, the locals move left to right and are indicated by purple inserts.
- To start, you have to keep them from getting to Morty on the right orbit. You have to buy enough time for Rick to build the communicator.
- If a local makes it to where Morty is, the insert will flash red and you have a few seconds to save him.
- If Morty dies, the adventure is over.
- If you hold off the locals long enough, the Summer target will light to call her and have her send the armored suits.
- Once the suits are summoned you have to stay alive long enough to receive them. If you can do that; party time.
--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com
Wow, I had no idea! maybe I should look up at the monitor now and then! Thanks for the explanation.
I've been hard on the shooter lane design, mine has plagued me since I got it. I've spent hours tweaking it but today I think I finally found the issue. The left hand wooden side rail, between the shooter lane and the right outlane was positioned too far to the right, so the ball could just about touch it as it was shot up the shooter lane. I repositioned it today just a mm or 2 to the left and now have a consistent ball speed. I still think its a bit of a weak design, particularly the last few inches of the wire form but at least now with a consistent ball speed I can get the ball on the playfield properly.
Quoted from Russell:A couple of things I've noticed and appreciated. I love that if you hold Start and do a restart, it talks trash to you and sends you to Butt Land. I love that they included apron cards. Spooky previously took the approach that you had to make your own, and it was a pain.
Yours came with Apron cards? How about spare leds? Mine had neither. Just saying.
Quoted from TomGWI:So had some time to finally fix this and this was my solution. I might be the only one who had this problem but it was annoying enough that I had to do something And it was happening every game. I ended up just placing a narrow post in the spot. It fixed the issue. No more ball hang ups. I just wanted to post about it if anyone else has an issue.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Might just be the photo but is that opto exposed to knocks from the ball?
Is anyone else getting the odd machine reboot? if it's just me then it's definitely a problem with my machine ( obviously ) although I haven't been able to find a cause so far ( with Luke and Eric's help ). It's not a regular occurrence, 5 times in 2 weeks and about 200 plays but once is too many as the machine can't be replied upon for a comp.
Quoted from PinMonk:If no one else is having issues to indicate it may be a software problem, I'd check the output from your power supply in the bottom of the cabinet to make sure it's outputting at least 48v, if it's low, that can cause reboots when the machine has a lot going on. There's a pot where you can turn the output up if it's low.
Thanks, I'll check that.
Quoted from KingofGames:Maybe a stupid question.
Will i have a probleem with the power suply in europe? Since we use 220 volt instead of 110.
I'm in the UK so on 220v but don't let that frighten you 
Quoted from Coindork:We have put several 100s of plays on our machine since we got it.
We have basically played every day, multiple time a day since we got it.
Twice the machine has reset and gone into a full power cycle mid game (similar to what you described).
On both occasions it was during Meeseeks multiball.
Funny you should say that, I was in Meeseeks mania on my last reset, maybe just a co-incidence. Log has been sent to Eric.
Question, is the multiball ball save grace period more strict in spooky machines than other manufacturers machines? Say you're in multiball and the ball save is coming to an end but still active, all active balls head for the trough at the same time. The ball save times out before all the balls can be relaunched ( it was still active when they went into the trough ). To me I've felt duped a few times in this situation when I've only got one ball back and multiball has been ended, situations I'm sure I'd still be in multiball on other machines. I've experienced this on R&M and TNA. Am I imagining it?
I wouldn't be able to sleep!
Quoted from razorsedge:The way the launch ramp ends does create an issue. If it could handle dropping the faster moving ball reliably, it would certainly help things for the two ball stuck scenario. The issue likely wouldn't exist to start with, since all launches will then always make the grade anyway. Some parts of RaM overengineered, this part underengineered imho.
Having multiple tries at launching balls on any repeated basis is not fun to have happening during your multiball game, at all. The wireform may or may not be substantial enough, but it definately Looks flimsy. I should not have to dial back launch power just to make the ball drop consistently, really.
The only aspect of the game I have any concern with. Maybe it is sufficient? ... but it is certainly not ideal. Not hard to remedy when my game gets here if the wireform is still this way, I will certainly create a fix or improvment so that launch power can be elevated and still drop the ball consistently.
If Spooky have thier hands tied and unable to make any changes to the wireform, maybe it could be a Mod opportunity.
I'm not worried about it at all for myself, I have fixes in mind. Point is it would be the icing on the cake to recieve a NIB pin and not have to do any Stranger Things from out of the box. If Spooky could pull that off they would be shipping A++ Grade games, and setting the highest standard bar None!
It is an issue, it is minor, but has potential to make any copy a bit temperamental, inconsistent with launches. Just posting my thoughts about it, trying to be constructive. Regardless, game still R(i)cks! ... looks like The GOAT for me!
Agree with everything you said, the shooter lane wireform is a very poor design. I've said basically what you said, to Luke, the end is too flimsy and it's too dependent on the perfect ball speed to work, the margin for error is tiny, too slow or too fast and the design just doesn't work. I suggested something could be made, to clip onto the end and attach to the nearby orbit/turn around loop post, to stiffen the whole thing and force the ball down.
Quoted from razorsedge:https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/43#post-5596394
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/43#post-5596817
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/44#post-5600492
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/45#post-5601894
It was raised quite some time ago.
Let's hope they're listening then.
I realised yesterday that the diverter beneath the house wasn't working on my machine, and never has. It wasn't disabled in the menu. I guess I'd never really thought about when it's supposed to operate, if I hit the right orbit when the portal wasn't lit I'd just get the ball back and I hadn't twigged that that's not what's supposed to happen. Anyway, the reason it wasn't working is the pawl clamp onto the diverter shaft ( it's basically a flipper mech ) had been over tightened and sheared. Luckily I had some flipper spares here to replace the sheared clamp bolt. The Mech itself seems overkill for the job, the coil plunger only gets to travel about 1/4 of it's available stroke, they could have used a much smaller coil. Actually it makes a nice change to have something overbuilt rather than under or only just powerful enough for the job.
Has anyone else managed to knock a ball out of the lock somehow? It's happened to me twice now and neither time I saw how it happened, I just noticed another ball in play. Happened to me just now, I think I lost one of the 2 balls that were now in play but re-locked the other. Then when locking a 2nd ball I ended up with 2 balls in one side...sounds like it got confused when the ball escaped ( somehow ).
Quoted from ziz:This happened a little while ago!
[quoted image]
Hmm...that's not good, hindsight is 2020 obviously but bending a piece of plastic as a hinge...probably always going to fail eventually whatever you use. Maybe a part re-design is needed here.
Quoted from Groo:Extra Ball light seems to be on quite often but never awards if you hit it. I do see the 2 skill shots, but the spinner is a slightly different color and if I hit it on launch it doesn't register a skill shot. Is that a skill shot and why is it a different color?
Strange, I've never had an extra ball shot not award. Are you sure all of the switches in your loop are registering? I don't think the spinner loop is a skill shot? it's a multiplier for the noob noob and garage shots I believe.
Is there a post somewhere about setting up the machine sound? Scott posted a little guide for TNA somewhere that I used before, but I can't find it. For those unfamiliar there's slightly more to it than most machines, there's the volume on the rear of the screen, the amp volume as well as crossover and sub level, as well as the coin door volume level.
I just installed PinMonk 's replacement fan, made a huge difference. Now you can barely tell the machine is on. It was simple enough, the hardest part was working in the back of the cab, I'm sure it was easy to put it there with no playfield in!
Quoted from mbasnight:epthegeek bug report for the horseshoe with locking for multiball.
Steps to repro (I have a video as well if you like)
1) Hit the captive ball to light lock
2) Lock the ball on ricks side, letting it fall into ricks side (does not go to mortys side). Ball one is locked.
3) With auto plunged ball, hit captive ball to light lock, morty drop target falls. Rick is lit green.
4) Hit rick drop target, moving ball to morty, and morty glows green.
5) Hit morty drop target, moving the ball to rick. Rick does not light.
6) Hit rick drop target again, where the ball is placed, but unlit. Drops the second ball.
Well done recreating it, ball escape has happened to me twice but I had no idea how it happened at the time.
Quoted from northerndude:Has anyone else had the same problem as much as me?!! I probably have the ball coming down the right ramp, sucking back like I hit a wedge into the green, and ripping right and down the outline? I’m probably getting it 30%+ of the time, and it’s really fucking up some nice balls.
I’d like a simple tune up. Do I just need to slow it down a bit? Remove some spin?
Signed - frustration
I can honestly say this hasn't happened once on my machine in over 300 plays.
Quoted from davisjl1979:I've noticed the pop bumper knocking the left flipper down. I read there is a solution to that, but can't find it.
[quoted image]
Main fix for flipper knockdown is to set hold power to high and adjust the EOS switch, however someone else posted ( regarding the right flipper ) about the flipper button actuator, replacing the long piece of plastic with a plastic disc to give a firmer, better connection and therefore better hold power ( not sure how that works though on a modern machine, someone please explain! )
Quoted from epthegeek:Fixing the EOS is the most important bit - and the plastic bit on the right won’t do anything for the left flipper.
Of course, but how does the plastic disc improve the right flipper hold anyway? if the switch is made, and input to the board, how does holding the switch tighter improve things?
Quoted from epthegeek:It’s not a memory leak. We’re watching that A LOT given the history. There were very significant changes made to the video handling for R&M that have the memory under control.
There’s an issue with the ending of Meeseeks Mania that spikes the CPU and triggers the watchdog to shut things down. The latest beta has a fix for it - waiting for feedback from the testers.
I haven't found anything major in the latest Beta yet Eric in about 20 games. Only minor things like callouts ending other callouts and volume levels, nothing game breaking. I've never seen the kind of performance described above.
Quoted from MikeS:Question for those with some time on the game.
If you fire a fast shot with the left flipper around the right side of the horseshoe when open (exiting left), where does the ball end up? On mine the lightning fast shots seem to go SDTM. Ive played around a bit with pitch and level but can't seem to avoid it. Are there any adjustments I can make to help with this? I try to be smart about avoiding that shot whenever possible just because it is so deadly on my game. Thanks!
I think it's always going to be variable depending on ball speed, sometimes balls exiting left on my machine cut all the way across to the right flipper.
Quoted from The_Casual:Does anyone else have weak shots in the spinner lane always drain to the out right lane? If it gets slowed behind the right orbit and diverts down through the spinner it’s an impossible drain even with magna-save. Or a weak shot that doesn't make it all the way through will come back and drain.
Is it just my 6.8 degree angle or is it by design?
Mine doesn't do that, weak inner loop shots run back somewhere near the upper flipper, but I've moved the ball guide from its original position.. The shots that fall to the right outlane on my machine are failed left orbit garage shots. I'll have to remedy that by again moving the ball guide as that's becoming very annoying lol.
Anyone with a machine check the bars alongside the scoop aren't lifting. I just had the right one on mine lift right out of the hole and move across slightly, luckily I noticed immediately and switched the machine off. Hitting it with a ball could possibly have scratched the playfield.
IMG_20200803_203301 (resized).jpg 2 weeks later
Quoted from TomGWI:No idea why but I keep getting balls stuck behind the garage when I make a right orbit shoot to the back left hole. It has happened now about 10 times. Anyone else experience this? Ball sits behind the opto. It is impossible to dislodge without a magnet under the house.
[quoted image][quoted image]
I just had a ball get stuck in a similar spot, just further along, after the opto. I've mocked up an image as it was hard to take a photo of and I didn't want to remove the left ramp and house just to do it. The ball was actually a left garage lane shot that bounced to where it finished up. Not sure if Spooky have addressed stuck balls in this area on newer machines ( mine is no.20 ) but it's obviously an area that could do with some improvement. Has anyone else had stuck balls here or put anything in place to try to prevent it? I'm thinking of screwing in a post just right of the large garage hole ( left of the hole the cable comes through ). This is actually the first time it's happened to me although I've had the ball bounce about a bit in that area before and come back down the inner loop when it should have gone in the garage hole. Not a frequent problem but would be an issue if it happened in the middle of a league meet as it wouldn't shake loose and was hard to reach ( I managed to reach it with a magnet ).
Stuck Ball (resized).jpgQuoted from gliebig:Put quite a few games on mine this weekend with latest code.
Had a couple glitchy/audio clipping instances and a couple game resets.
Also, I seem to only see the same 5 or so dimensions. Have yet to see any of the weird flipper dimensions. Are those just seen less frequently?
The odd flipper behaviour dimensions are definitely less frequent than some of the more common dimensions ( TNA, fart, wildeim etc). I've only got to them a few times. How many dimensions are you getting through in a game? The more you get through the larger chance of seeing the less common ones. There's a night vision dimension I've only seen once, and the twilight zone one I've only seen about 3 times.
Sorry to hear about your resets, I do find that odd. I'm on beta software ( which currently matches the latest public release) and haven't had a reset in probably a month.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Can a cable be run to the coindoor for easier access?
My houdini is P3-ROC and the front cable works really well.
Im running a USB3 cable for my pinsound on my Doctor Who and its working pretty good.
I was thinking a low loss USB3 rated 10 ft cable should be ok?
I've done this on my R&M, being a beta tester with the almost daily releases, removing the backglass got old fast
. Still a pain, hard to reach. 1 week later
Quoted from zaphX:Has anyone noticed the left flipper sticking up, then recovering once you flip it again?
Things I’ve checked:
- Button is not binding
- Leaf switch is properly gapped
- Flipper travel does not bind when manually manipulated
I don’t know what else to check at this point, that seems to cover all of the physical aspects of the flipper.
I'm sure Eric will join in when he sees this as he went through it with me, it's a qwerk of proc. If the eos isn't made long enough flippers can stay activated. Fix is to adjust eos so it's made slightly earlier. It's a fine balance, you want it making early enough to fix this issue but not too early or it will leave you with an easily knocked down flipper. It's posted in this thread somewhere, pages back.
Edit... Found the post for you... https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/78#post-5710895
Quoted from LoneStarPinball:Love this game, but I done broke mine. I was rearranging my game room, to put R&M in a better spot. I used a lift, so , no dragging. Turned it on, no video but game was working so I thought, maybe,it will fix itself, and played 1 game that seemed to have no issues, other than no video. Turned it off, then back on. Now all LED's are on (white), but it does not come up, and the LCD, turns itself off because no video. I kept messing with it, hoping what I was seeing wasn't right, but the CPU board was not turning on. I have a ATX power supply tester, so I was able to confirm proper power at the board, but nothing. Spooky agrees, that it is the CPU board. I don't know if it was support telling me this, or I read it somewhere so if incorrect i apologize. But at some point before my #156 was made The CPU boards they were using got discontinued and a new part was found. But now there has been a few people with cpu boards that just die. There are none in stock at right now at Spooky. Hopefully by next week but I'm not sure they have an exact ETA, who knows, they may be looking for another option. I know they may have great big box full of them in production, but they do not belong to support.
So what to do in the mean time? Well, I'd like to improve the sound of the Sub. I've seen a couple of posts that say it might be improved by adding an enclosure, but I have not seen where anybody actually has tried it to report if it helped. I'm not an audiophile, but I can google and this is what I'm gonna do. I don't know if everyone will get the same part, but mine came with GRS 10sw-4 you may need to look up the specs for whatever you do have. A GRS 10SW4 Is designed to be in an "Acoustic Suspension" enclosure A pin cab is an "Infinite Baffle" enclosure and will have poor sound, and will likely have a short life span, because there is no box to give your Sub it's spring. It should be in a box of a bit more than 2 cubic feet. That works out to a cube of 15.2 inches on each side. You can alter the shape as long as the volume stays the same. Sealed boxes can have issues of standing waves, which can degrade the sound so you should buy some acoustic batting to line the inside of the box. I think I shall make it look as if it were a microverse battery. Nobody will see it, I'll know it's there.
I was wondering why R&M has no sub box, when TNA did. To be my own devils advocate, they may have to switch to a different Sub for supply chain issues, and would need the box tweaked for best results.
I bought an enclosure for a 10" sub ( really cheap on ebay) , put an old pioneer 10" sub in it that I've had for years from my car stereo days, and connected it to the amp. Works great, and none of the rattles that are a problem if you drive the cabinet speaker too hard.
1 week later
. Replacent on the way, thanks Charlie/Morgan.Quoted from MarkA:Could anyone share a picture of how these wires are connected??
I'm assuming they belong together!
Thanks in advance.
Mark
[quoted image][quoted image]
I don't think they go together, the white connector looks like the ship/ufo connector. Also 7 pins vs 8.
Quoted from tarzxvf:What method are people using for external subs for R&M? Just jumping it off of the sub in the cabinet?
I disconnected the cabinet speaker and ran wires to an old 10" pioneer sub from my car stereo days, in a 10" sealed enclosure off ebay. Cost me about £20 for the enclosure and the cables. Sounds great with none of the rattle you get from driving the cab speaker too hard.
Quoted from tarzxvf:Is your pioneer sub a powered sub? Was thinking about buying a Polk PSW10 off amazon.
No, I have powered subs on all my other machines but in this case the amp is plenty powerful enough to drive a passive sub. An active sub will work well too, it's just that I already had a suitable speaker, just needed an enclosure for it.
Quoted from MrCliftron:Has anyone had the garage shot from the right loop brick out and back down the left loop entrance? It's not happening consistently for me, but every so often the ball won't fall into the portal. I don't see that issue in the list of adjustments yet, but maybe I missed something.
It has happened to me but only once I think. I've had it jump out the other way too from a left garage shot and get stuck near the opto. I fitted a post there to prevent that. I guess we could fit some kind of deadener to prevent bounce outs. Some foam, rubber or velcro maybe.
Quoted from Jherre6:Download the update again, format the usb stick as fat32 and try again. Happened to me once before.
Happened to me too.
I used to have a little trouble updating, often having to do it twice before it worked, but have discovered if I quick format the USB stick every time before putting the update on the stick it works fine every time. Touch wood.
Quoted from jonesjb:Is there any reason not to put the hold strength to high?
It does seem counter intuitive to not set hold strength to high, but, after watching Karl's stream and seeing how easily he makes the left ramp and having a conversation with him about it I set mine to medium on his recommendation. The reason being keeping the coil temperature down keeps it's power up. Worked for me, I can definitely make more left ramps with hold strength set to medium.
I've just noticed the 2 flashers in the topper light dimly whenever the shaker motor operates? anyone else noticed this or can test their machine? Easy to test in coil test, just pulse the shaker and look up 
. Not a huge problem, obviously, unless it's indicating a possible fault with my machine.
Quoted from northerndude:Hell no, I even somehow hit the effin thing on other pins and even the left outlane!! whats wrong with me
Definitely done that after playing a lot of any machine with magna save. Same if you own a Shadow, it becomes routine to swap the ramp diverters after every successful ramp made, moving to another machine has you reaching for buttons that aren't there.
Quoted from arzoo:I made what I though was the impossible shot - upper flipper to the left ramp. The ball must have deflected just perfectly off the pin on the left side of the ramp entrance and had enough power to make it to the top. Total luck, and I was totally surprised!
I've made that ( deflection ) shot too and actually messaged Eric saying he should code something in for when that happens, a sort of ' NO FUCKING WAY! ' callout or similar. I guess it would be impossible to know if it came off the upper flipper or the lower flipper though so that rules that out
Quoted from WindRaidor:Just curious if this look right...I recall there being a portal effect in the garage when I played this a long time ago. I just got my machine and it looks off to be able to see the LED bulbs in the garage and no portal effect swirling in the garage. If this is how it’s supposed to be, is there a mod to cover those bulbs out of direct view?
[quoted image][quoted image]
I've always thought this should have worked better, from my viewpoint the reflection of the led's isn't lined up well, it's sort of half on/half off the plastic over the hole. I think if you were 8 foot tall it might work 
Quoted from melumga:Mark sent me some photos of the games as he received them. He states that "They put 8 of the games on top of other games. Yours was one of the ones underneath hence the damage on the top. Travelling 40 days on a ship with 130kg games on top. I think there also must have been some rough weather as it looks like those games on top might have moved around a lot. That’s a lot of weight on the games underneath".
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Wow! I'm not sure any pinball box is strong enough for that ( pinpod? )
The first batch of Dialed In's came to the UK with at least one machine on top like that and it was clearly dropped getting it in or out, the machine was found to be destroyed when it arrived at the unlucky owners house.
Quoted from razorsedge:Two things, first the most straightforward simple way to solve is to just cut a piece from Lexan or other material that is actually appropriate for the application, secondly this doesn't happen to most other games does it. There is some other condition that causes these to break on a small proportion of machines. It has been stated before that the post coil adjustment can be too high which causes excessive or more violent deflection of the ship. So it probably just requires that the up post coil be adjusted so that it does not push the ship up so far.
Just highlighting stuff that has been covered and bounced around earlier in the thread.
I've been saying all along that this part needs re-designing. Mine snapped, spooky sent me a few replacements and a shorter rod and I'm grateful for that but now the ship hardly moves. I'm pretty sure it'll last forever but it has completely nerfed the mech. Needs a re-design.
1 week later
Quoted from jbigdoggf:What causes s drop target to fire repeatedly.... in my case the rick drop under the car..
If I hit near it it will fire while the target itself is already up. Sometimes it will fire over and over again I counted it fire 11 times in a row.
Anything to check to fix it would be great.
I had a problem where a drop target would not drop, it was catching on the switch actuator that says the target is down and jamming so it couldn't drop, this would result in it firing multiple times trying to drop but not achieving it. I had to bend the end of the switch actuator slightly to fix it. Strangely my machine had probably >1000 plays before this suddenly started happening.
Quoted from northerndude:Seriously folks, how deep is the appreciation for how great playing and addicting this game is for you guys?
I find it after 5 months owning it as fantastic as the first day still and I’m as still as addicted to pressing Start.
*Even though I can’t seem to get my shooter lane perfected, even as I’ll have 30 perfect shooter lane games, the power seems to be a little volatile from press to press of launch (or Squanch in my case)
Check the ball isn't catching the wooden rail on the left side of the shooter lane. I spent a few weeks trying to get my shooter lane working properly, I was convinced it was the worst design ever ( it probably still is! ). Ultimately the problem with my machine was this rail was only a hair away from the ball as it passes by, so the ball could just touch it and that would affect the ball speed so it was impossible to get working reliably like that. I had to move the wooden rail slightly towards the right outlane which was more work than it could have been because 1 or 2 of the screws ( below the playfield ) have boards mounted on top of them. You need to remove the portal gun to get a good look as it's directly on top of it.
IMG_20200626_153819 (resized).jpgNot sure if my machine is any different to anyone else's but the ramp flap rivets on the right ramp are too far from the ramp side walls, and they're quite pronounced. If I run a ball over them there's quite a lump so easy to understand how an airball can be generated. I don't get many but every now and then I get one. The left ramp on my Jurassic park is exactly the same, and I get the same random airballs. I'm probably going to take a dremel to the rivets on both machines and smooth them out a bit.
Quoted from snaroff:I agree. Even when mine is fully charged and I activate it at what should be a reasonable point in time, the ball drains. It does impact the ball path (so I know it's working). As you say, it's more subtle. Wonder if there is a setting to make it more aggressive (so the ball is actually saved
Think of it more like a magna flip, it behaves much like the magna flippers on twilight zone, just flicking the ball away rather than grabbing it like other magna saves.
1 week later
Quoted from arzoo:Looking at the pic, it seems like my left flipper (right in picture) is not exactly parallel to the pf. Hmmm, this would have to be something with the mounting plate below. Or maybe it's just a shadow in the pic? Not gonna worry about it
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Mine is even worse than that, the tip of the left flipper is about 5mm higher than the base of the flipper. It's always bugged me, but I never got around to fixing it. Now the new bushings are coming I'll sort it out when fitting them.
2 weeks later
Quoted from mariobeans:So does anyone know why the flippers get stuck UP after they are hit pretty hard from a pop slam or scoop return?
If your flipper is sticking up on R&M it's usually the EOS needs adjusting, adjust it so its made very slightly earlier than it is now. Too early and you'll suffer a lot of flipper knockdowns, too late and you'll get sticking flippers. This is of course assuming you don't have any mechanical binding going on.
Quoted from harryhoudini:I also don't get why the flipper adjustment screws aren't like JJP. Only needing one tool to tighten with the captive washer/nut that has one side trimmed down..
I don't like that type of clamping screw, I've had quite a few of those break before they're anywhere near tight enough to stop the flipper moving. Give me an Allen bolt with nut anytime.
Quoted from RobT:Happens to me quite a bit. When the ball goes flying around the right orbit, the speed is so fast that it just goes right over the hole.
I've had it happen too, only a few times though and was probably after waxing.
Quoted from razorsedge:So I removed the subway yesterday, what I found in the subway was half dozen or so decent sized slivers of clear that seem to have flaked off from the bevel of the portal hole, from where the ball bashes hard at it.
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So I came up with a "mantis" style hole protector to help things.
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It's just some 2-1/2" milk tube, with 1mm SS sheet fabricated so that there are four mounting holes. 2 surplus screws that used to be in ball guides along with 2 that already held the subway, keeping it firmly in place.
Very well done!. Does it affect ball entry at all? sometimes the ball can be really moving when it hits that hole, just wondering if the ball bounces off more than it did with just the wood.
4 weeks later
Quoted from Rarehero:Cool. Maybe it’s just a normal thing then.
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Yes mine is the same, easy to test, run the shaker in test and look up . I posted about this ages ago but the post just went by un-noticed. Looks just like LED ghosting, I haven't seen that for a while.
4 weeks later
Quoted from bent98:Just got my machine and had a couple of more questions.
-The top right floor of my house is crooked, can that be adjusted? (see pic)
-Is my left ramp installed in the correct holes? (see pic)
Hitting the left & right ramp shots, the spinner shot and the garage shot have to be perfect otherwise you have no chance. Are there any adjustments to make it smoother or is this by design?[quoted image][quoted image]
I also repositioned my left ramp as far right as I could get it ( as post above ). My House was also really crooked, built by Stevie Wonder I think. I removed it, took it apart and put it back together so it was far more in line with building regulations. It's just a folded piece of plastic screwed to some 3d printed roof parts, I just repositioned a few screws, it's much better now.
Quoted from bent98:What screws to remove? I assume it’s not as difficult as removing the right castle in MMR?
There's only 2 screws holding the house on but you'll have to remove the left ramp and unplug the ship connector below the playfield as it feeds through the house. You'll possibly have to remove the right ramp too if you can't get at that screw on the right side of the house. I had it all apart anyway doing other stuff.
4 weeks later
Quoted from Zablon:1. Please add the sound for the magnet, with it missing it's hard to know if it is even working
JMO
Agree with that, I've let balls go because I thought the magnet wasn't working ( Yes I know, the meter is still lit, but the lack of feedback overcomes the visual that it is charged )
1 week later
Quoted from Fytr:These ones: https://www.pinballlife.com/segastern-flipper-extension-spring.html
The flipper power and punch is much improved with these vs the stock ones, never going back.
Not sure if they really affect the flipper hold power enough to notice, still playing around with that.
Those are what I bought and fitted ( not form PBL, I'm in the UK ). Even before fitting one just stretching it alongside the R&M spring I could tell they were just as strong as the longer, fatter R&M spring. My search for a weaker spring continues...
Quoted from Zablon:It does? I've not seen this....
I think most people never will. Change the default lit stamps to a higher number. 8 is the highest you can set, then you only have to play one mode to get to morty's choice where you can select Rick potion no.9. Cheating? maybe but I know I'd never get there without upping the stamps, and it's a necessity if you're testing beta releases.
Great video, makes my play look appalling .
Machine has a few faults, the diverter isn't working, sending all right orbit shots to the garage, and the right ramp arrow colour is screwy, lighting red instead of purple for example.
Quoted from Coyohtay:Flippers: I have been trying everything mechanical (inc the Stern springs) + adjusting settings in the latest code and I couldn't get the flippers back to where they were (game was frustrating and not fun on the latest code). For an experiment, while we were streaming last night, I back dated to the March code and immediately my buddy posted a new GC of 145 mil. We definitely like the behavior on the March code. Will be leaving that on until new code drops.
I'm going to say something about the flippers that's hard to put into words. On my machine it feels like the flippers have speed but no power or torque. I'll try to explain. From a cradled ball or a ball running through the inlane there's plenty of ball speed generated to get a ball up the ramps. However, they feel weak when hitting a ball on the fly that isn't on the flipper ( if that makes sense! ). If I flip at a ball that's away from the flipper, through flailing or just poor timing, there's very little ball speed generated. You may say this sounds normal but no, I've owned over 40 machines and I've never noticed this behaviour before. It's like there's enough speed generated in the flipper from a standing start, but interrupt that flipper speed/travel partially through it's travel and all power is lost. Does anyone else notice this?
Quoted from guitarded:Have you ground/shaved down your bushings?
A big problem is the height of the flippers relative to the center of the ball. Lots of energy is being lost there.
Would love an update on how much longer until the new bushings are available.
Yes, I've shortened the bushings.
Quoted from KingHebes:Also what color bolt did you guys get on your upper flipper assembly? The bolt that's used to tighten and hold the flipper bat? Mine was broken but chrome. I noticed both lower flippers have the standard black Allen head screw. Super poor QC on my game. [quoted image][quoted image]
I hate that type of flipper mech bolt, yeah they're easier to do up but I've broken quite a few with less torque than is needed to secure the flipper.
1 month later
Regarding the magna save, also bare in mind that the music based adventures i.e Moonmen, Swifty, maybe another have few sound effects so the magna save doesn't make a noise when you operate it. This has caught me out a few times because I've thought the magna save isn't working when it actually is. I wish they would allow this particular sound effect during those adventures.
Quoted from orlandu81:Two part post...first I wanted to thank AJ and Morgan for helping me through the issues I was having a couple of my posts. All was remedied quickly and I couldn't be happier with the result.
Second, I wanted to give a shout out to Cliffy for his protectors that can and should be used on Rick and Morty. Fantastic service as usual and quality products. Below are some pics...I have drop target protectors, drain hole protector, shooter lane full kit, and carbon fiber post bases on a number of my posts. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Should be used? Out of all modern machines I'd say R&M is the one that needs protectors less than any other! Have you had problems with any of these areas?
2 weeks later
Quoted from Aniraf:Hey everyone, I wanted to give an early preview of my new "Ship Dangler". I came up with this idea because I've been through two "plastic springs" now. I firmly believe it is not a question of "if it will break" rather "when will it break".
What I'm trying to do is to create something that is simple to assemble, reliable and visually better than the stock version. I feel pretty confident that I have cracked the code, but I'll leave you all to decide.
Essentially what I've done is to "pinch" the existing plastic hole with a TPU flange I call the "wiggler". On top of that I have a part which copies the spooky clear plastic PETG design allowing for me to maintain the stock spooky aesthetic. Lastly, instead of using hot glue to hold the spring into the "funnel" I've created a lock which mates with the spring and allows for you to use one of the stock screws and lock nuts to hold the thing together. I am a big believer in being able to disassemble things without damage .
I'm going to post some pictures of the design and prototypes. I expect to print the final "wiggler" in transparent TPU in order to do my best to hide it and show off the artwork currently blocked by the plastic spring. If there is interest in this thing, I would be happy to record a couple of videos which try to detail how it works.
Overall the final product leaves you with a cleaner looking plastic minus the fact that you now have four unused holes cut into the plastic. Personally, I'd rather have the small holes in the plastic than the huge spring, but to each his own. Plus I figured if I opened up four holes in the middle of the playfield, other creative mod makers could come up with some cool stuff .
Let me know what you think.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I like where you're going with this, I've never been a fan of the original design.
1 week later
Quoted from harryhoudini:Portal Start Button and Rick/Summer/Beth characters now available at PMC
https://pinballmods.co/rick-and-morty-pinball-mods/portal-start-button
https://pinballmods.co/rick-and-morty-pinball-mods/jerry-summer-beth-playfield-characters[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Careful you aren't creating a ball trap there. I threw a few meeseeks on that plastic randomly at first until an airball got stuck there, had to move them around a little to allow a route for the ball to get out.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Var1AbL3:This was exactly my thoughts during the episode, the battle, finding the right memories, the great music; all amazing and would translate VERY well into a a mode.
Also, the GoTron Ferret episode would make an ideal mode, great and hilarious music, several to-be-classic call outs and above all a clear mission, assemble as MANY GoTron Ferrets as possible.
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Lets be honest, R&M is the perfect theme for pinball and virtually every episode could be made into an adventure. Fingers crossed they do make more.
4 months later
2 weeks later
Quoted from bjsilverballs:You know how the lockdown bar can get kinda sticky? Mine has been sticky the entire time I've owned it so I've always just beat the one corner down. Yep. One beat too many. Sigh. Freakin glass everywhere! Good news is I'll dismantle the upper part of the playfield to remove glass and start making all the necessary tweaks.[quoted image]
Shit! I hope the portal wasn't open when this happened, it'll take even longer to track down all the pieces.
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