Athens, OH
#736 standard checking in!
(Topic ID: 257850)
Linked Games
Rick and Morty (Blood Sucker Edition)
Spooky Pinball, 2020-
Rick and Morty (Standard)
Spooky Pinball, 2020
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I see PinballLife has posted their Rick and Morty hinges! https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-200-0101-00
I hope they can/or will consider offering these in the standard powder coat color for us lonely standard buyers!
4 months later
Quoted from Iwasthebruce:Not an official owner yet, but patiently waiting on machine number 745!
One of the [apparently very few] non-Blood Sucker Editions :3
Just wanted to post so I can tag along with y'all here, cheers!
736 standard checking in!
6 months later
1 week later
Quoted from Rum-Z:I hope you keep making them Matt. I'll need some for my R&M when I get it.
I'll second that!
Apologies if this has already been mentioned. Just noticed this showed up since the last time I was browsing Pinball Life's site:
https://www.pinballlife.com/rick-and-morty-upgraded-shooter-lane-wireform-kit.html
1 week later
Quoted from Oneangrymo:Is Rick and morty A wide body ? I hope it’s not jjp 350 lb heavy
The flyer says 250lb.
1 week later
Quoted from Penguindeity:Does anyone know how many standard machines actually sold? I'm #586 but went with a standard, so I know I'm on the tail end of production. Just trying to gauge what things look like.
According to ipdb.org:
Of the 750 sold, 36 of the Standard Edition and 714 of the Blood Sucker Edition are being made.
1 week later
Quoted from Colywobbles:Made a Simple and cheap Mod by extending one of my own protectors to accommodate a funky mystery mini noob noob.
Apology’s if this has already been done. [quoted image]
That looks really great!
1 week later
Quoted from KingPinGames:okay, updated. please try again.
thank you
Wow, this contains a lot of good information. Thanks for putting it together!
Quoted from CashMoney:Anyone know how many standard editions are going to be made?
According to ipdb.org:
"Of the 750 sold, 36 of the Standard Edition and 714 of the Blood Sucker Edition are being made."
3 weeks later
Quoted from johnnyutah:Anyone know if the blue Crystal mod for the top scoop is still being produced and where to get one? Cool mod-
Here you go!
https://www.pinballlife.com/rick-and-morty-pinball-blue-crystal-scoop-mod.html
2 weeks later
Quoted from damadczar:Some of you guys getting standard editions, please post some pics. I've seen nothing but BSE for a year, be neat to see the differences again.
Some standard edition pictures
SE (resized).jpgStandard Front (resized).jpgStandard Full (resized).jpgStandard Side (resized).jpgstandard front1 (resized).jpg 1 week later
1 week later
Quoted from orlandu81:Hello everyone! I received my PBL wireform upgrade today but just wanted to confirm what the hardware pieces are used for before I install the new one from anyone who has installed theirs already. The original came out easy…the one screw on top. I imagine the washers and nuts will go on the ends of the new wire form but what of the extra two different sized screws and this plastic piece?
[quoted image]
I believe the plastic "top hat" and screw are used to put something in the original hole that is no longer needed with this.
Quoted from orlandu81:Ok that looks right...wonder why they sent two though...one is longer and has a flat head and the other is shorter with a round head. I am guessing that I am to use the round head one to cover the hole, OR use the flat head one with the spacer to cover the hole? Just want to make sure before I install.
I wish I could find the picture I saw of this before they took it down from the website. The only thing I recall is that is was just a silly thing they did to put something where that hole was. Mr. Poopy Butthole reference or something I am fairly sure.
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from Iwasthebruce:Rick and Morty Standard Edition #745 invoice received and paid in full as of yesterday!
Perhaps the last one off the line?
Should be shipping out today, wubba lubba dub dub!
Now, to plan an unboxing party...
I'm still waiting for 736 to ship and I paid on 5/17 - don't be cutting the line! 
Quoted from toyotaboy:Is your spring under your ship red too? I'm pretty sure everyone's is silver
Almost seems like that other piece is clear vs white perhaps?
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from toyotaboy:well lookyloo was kind enough to pay it forward and pay for the next 3 sets of spacers/screws to adjust the flipper mech heights. I'll have to order more screws, but the next 3 that PM me will get a free set.
Pm'd! 736 standard ships tomorrow!
Also, thanks lookyloo - sounds like you are a true gentleman!
1 week later
Quoted from SR230CC:I don’t see the magnetic switches in the marketplace.
Just PM him with what you want, he responds quickly!
Quoted from Beamer2007:Where is the s/n located?
On my standard it is to the right inside the coin door.
Quoted from P1nhead:Best upgrade for this machine or any with troublesome switches - like exit switches or ramps or the problematic MRS (3) on rfm.
Cannot recommend them enough.
I just got done installing all four and they are fantastic!
Quoted from venom112:I have not received any bushings from spooky. Are these being sent out or do I need to call?
You need to shoot them an email requesting the new bushings and they'll send them right out. I emailed [email protected] and had them in a couple of days.
WizardsCastle - Here you go. My ramp does not touch the side of the cabinet or the house.
20210623_184328 (resized).jpg20210623_184346 (resized).jpg20210623_184401 (resized).jpgQuoted from Calfdemon:Just upon visual inspection, how so? Looks like I would have to remove the subway in order to install from the bottom and screw in the 2 support screws that there are no holes for, then install the other 2 screws in the 2 holes that currently hold the subway on. Am I mistaken?
This is the method I went with since shifting the subway was not very feasible on my game due to some tight wiring around it. In any case, it was pretty darn simple and may have taken about 10 minutes.
Quoted from mbasnight:Like a pinball noob I got my topper yanked while moving my machine and the C4/C5 2 pin connector popped out the p3-roc board in the back box and now I have an empty pass through connector and a red and black wire dangling.
Can someone please eyeball this connection and tell me what color wire goes on C4 and C5 so I can fix it back up?
This what you are looking for?
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from mbasnight:The P3-ROC is the one smack dab in the middle. And it’s actually the J2 as per the below image. That c4 c5 are right above the 2 pin.
https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/p3-roc/
Edit: thank you for the help.
Let's try this again
pasted_image (resized).png 1 week later
Quoted from Sonic:Today marks an interesting day as we ship out our 1st - the whole shebang R&M MRS package - a Pinsider chose to replace all 9 rollovers in his R&M (plus purchasing 2 spares)....I'll be curious how the pin plays as, to date, we've only sold 4 MRS' max for a R&M.....I'll let the Pinsider choose to provide further commentary if they so choose....
Thanks everyone for your recent deluge - after today - I'm caught up again...for now...
Now, onto a Rob Zombie order!
Matt & Dan
M&M Creations
Wow! I went with the 4 and could not be happier with their performance - I'd be lying if the thought of replacing the lowers didn't cross my mind a time or two already.
I'll add to the MRS switches for what I did in order to make it easy to re-use one of the existing holes vs guessing where I need to drill through the MRS tab. I took a piece of painters tape and put it where the MRS tab would be going on the bottom of the playfield, poked the existing holes through the tape and then dry fit the MRS in the slot so I could trace around the tab with a pen. After that, remove the tape and put that over the top of the MRS tab lined up with your tracing so you know exactly where you can drill your hole in the tab.
1 week later
Quoted from riggy469:Can anyone with the Pinball Life updated shooter wireform tell me why it came with two different size black screws? What are they for? Also, what is the small black plastic spacer for? The shooter wireform looks like it would just use the existing screw (and the provided nuts to tighten underneath, unless I’m wrong.[quoted image]
Look at the various photos on the pinballlife site for this item. It explains on the photos themselves.
I ordered the new wire form shooter in purple for my standard. I didn't need it necessarily, but I have noticed my stock wire form works pretty darn well, aside from I have to bend it back up from time to time since the ball keeps catching on the underside and causing the ball to get a spin on it after launch or hitting up through the outer loop. I have had to bend it back up a bit about 4 times now in almost 500 games.
Quoted from MightyGrave:So my RM BSE 598 landed.
But I have a question about the 3D print quality from the megaseed tree. Here is how mine look - not really happy with it .
What's your thoughts and how does your megaseed tree look like?
Is there any way to make it look better?
[quoted image][quoted image]
Email Spooky, I am sure they would toss you a better looking one in the mail.
Quoted from Var1AbL3:Does anyone know if Spooky ever built any of the Rick and Morty machines with the "fixed" flipper bushings? If so what number did they start fixing that issue? I have the x-spacers discussed on here, but want to be 100% sure my machine doesn't have the shorter flipper bushings before I install them. Is there a way to tell? My understanding is if a more than a credit card can fit between bats and PF then it is too high. I know with the previous software update (not the latest) I had a LOT of problems with flipper hold, they seem less now with the new code but would like to make them even better if the spacers will help.
Thanks in advance.
I don't believe so. I was #736 standard and I had to get the bushings from Spooky.
Quoted from klr650:GENERAL CURIOSITY (Re: Shooter Lane Wireform):
I was just on the Pinballife site and checking out the new shooter lane wireform. In the description it says:
"Spooky made 2 different versions of the original shooter lane wireform. This upgraded wireform will replace both versions."
Does anybody know how the first two versions differed? Is this why I've had no issues (knock on wood) while others couldn't make that switch fast enough?
I believe the two versions were more or less the same but one used two screws and the later one just used one. When I replaced my #736 standard with the new wire form my old only used one screw. I had to drill a new hole in the side rail for the new and put the Mr. Poopy Butthole "hat" in my old hole.
Quoted from DNO:I think there’s a key post with settings that worked for me.
Agreed. This made the screen look way better.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/151#post-5958744
Quoted from Var1AbL3:I wondered the same, I was thinking I was so smart and would just flip up the PF and install the protector from the bottom....not gonna happen. You would have to remove the subway and that would be WAY more difficult than the house and a couple of ramps. In fact, the house and each ramp only require 2 screws to be removed (the right ramp has a third screw at the megaseed tree). I didn't mind removing the topside stuff because it gave me the opportunity to clean the hell out of the PF back there. You can remove the subway but I think it would be a pain, lots more screws and wire harnesses in the way.
Gotcha - I was just going off the thinking that when I went with the metal protector and removed the subway it was pretty darn easy and I think just 3 screws. From the post above I was assuming getting to it from the top sounded like a bigger pain.
2 weeks later
Quoted from ericpruitt:Did you make this yourself or purchase it from somewhere? The only replacements I've seen so far are plastic.
toyotaboy If memory serves me. I have one but have not needed it as of yet after 680 games.
1 week later
Quoted from WizardsCastle:Can anyone confirm if these are the switches used on our game?
https://www.pinballlife.com/rollover-switch-with-mounting-bracket.html
Looks like it to me. The only difference I see is that mine were Cherry brand.
pasted_image (resized).png
Edit: Nevermind, they are also Cherry on pinballlife. I just had to take it out of the mount to see the other side like the photo on there.
1 week later
3 weeks later
Quoted from Var1AbL3:I have a question since there is no schematics for my R&M machine. The RGB light that sits in the pop bumper (opposite the sling) has given up the ghost and either gives off NO light or will flicker sometimes at best. I checked all the connections and they seem fine. As far as I can tell (without taking it apart since I don't have the replacement part) the bulb itself is part of the little board. If I am correct and it is a new RGB board I need does anyone here know the part number? Or a link to it on one of the parts resellers? If I am wrong please educate me, the game is still playable but you can't tell when megaseeds are available at the pop bumper. Not a game stopper but not the best situation either.
Thanks in advance,
John
Someone can correct me if I am wrong, but I thought it was this: https://www.pinballlife.com/p-roc-rgb-pop-bumper-board-assembly.html
1 week later
Quoted from wackenhut:Were there issues with the earlier R&M machines? Just curious if the later machines incorporated any changes by Spooky?
I'm not sure but I have had absolutely zero issues with #736 with almost 800 games.
Quoted from Palmer:Model number is 7 because R&M is Spooky's 7th game. RAM stands for Rick and Morty in serial number. Last three digits in the serial number is your game number so yours is #546. Not sure what the significance of the other numbers in the serial number.
Maybe 010520 stands for January 5th, 2020 - Perhaps when they started production? (Of course it looks like that was a Sunday so who knows!)
2 weeks later
Quoted from 27dnast:Anyone?
Taken from here: http://tiltforums.com/t/rick-morty-rulesheet/6391
pasted_image (resized).png 1 week later
Quoted from PinBalt:Scary Terry "I Got Your Balls Bitch!" and Squanchy "I'm Tying One On!" Magno-Mods.
Hi. This is a follow-up from awhile ago when I posted a prototype for a Scary Terry in Portal Mod. I had to change it up a bit - smaller portal and no lettering. But I also added a Squanchy version. Scary Terry is exiting a Portal with your "PinBalls". BTW - Terry's head does swivel so he will be looking at you. Squanchy is exiting a Portal with a cold brew of your choice in one hand and some asphyxiation action in the other! The figures are attached to the portal sculpt through a VERY STRONG Magnet with a countersunk screw. The Mod will then attach to the right side of the cabinet where the hinge bolt is exposed above the plastic ramp. This will place the characters perpendicular to the cabinet and hovering over the right Ramp (I will update with install photo).
I am assessing interest in these. This will be a very limited run as I have stock for 10 Scary Terrys and 16 Squanchys. There are a few folks that previously PMed me and that have a slot until they say yes/no. Please PM me if you are interested in Terry and/or Squanchy. These will be made to order as I have to dissect the Funkos and I do not want to do it unless it's sold. What's involved: 1 Funko dissection, Hand Sculpted Portal and silicone mold, Plastic resin for mold and Funko body in-filling, Painting, Magnets, Hollow Pinballs, Bottles & Rope, Glue, Vinyl Decals, Sealant for Portal.
I am looking to price these guys at $75.00 each.
This is my first Mod effort and I hope that you find them to your liking
Jim
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Also interested, would love to see the installed photo!
Quoted from Gorgar123:My standard actually came with the speaker covers, but I think that might be because I ordered the speaker lights?
The only real difference as far as I know is the purple colored armor vs the hammered space gray armor and the portal protectors around the flipper buttons.
And I think the difference in price between the Standard and BSE was around $550 if I remember correctly.
[quoted image]
Yep, the speaker covers came on the standard if you bought the Interactive RGB Speaker Kit upgrade.
1 month later
Pickle Rick: This mode is unique among the implemented modes so far because unlike the other Adventures, it can only be started at the garage; both shots that lead to the garage will begin flashing purple when this mode is qualified instead of the center scoop and Rick will begin telling you to come to the Garage. Landing the shot in the Garage to start the mode will actually hold the ball (instead of the usual instant left inlane scoop eject) so you can relax and watch the intro, where out of pure incompetence and a desire to brag, Rick turned himself into a pickle, Morty! He’s Pickle Rick! Advance through the life cycle of this scientific monstrosity by first hitting the bumper or slingshot enough times to get off the ground, then shoot the scoop. You’ll then be tasked to shoot targets to kill rats with your upgraded weapons and armor. Killing enough rats will then light the scoop to start the final timed phase, where shooting ramps and loops will kill goons at the consulate. Killing enough of the goons will light the scoop for one last shot to finish the mode. This is very difficult to accomplish, good luck!
1 week later
Quoted from delt31:Maybe I'm overlooking but the link provided says 08/21 build. Where can I get this 22 build?
Shift + Refresh or open in a new private window perhaps.
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from VALIS666:Just looked through my logfile after updating the code to 2022.01.02 a few days ago, any problems in here or just standard business? Thx.
Fairly certain I saw that in my file too after every update since I've had the machine.
Quoted from snaroff:Was playing a game today on the most recent code drop and the game froze on Ball 3 (flippers were dead, no audio, video was frozen). When I rebooted everything went back to normal.
Not suggesting it's a new bug. Anyone else have this happen?
[quoted image]
Now that you mention it I did have that happen. At the time I was just like "Uh, that was strange.." and power cycled the machine.
2 weeks later
Quoted from guitarded:I just got around to putting in my Pin Monk Quiet Fan...
Holy shitballs. What a huge difference.
Holy crap, I know right? While it was a bit tedious as far as getting the PS out of the machine to do it, it was well worth it!
2 weeks later
Quoted from zebpin61:Had to respond ... can't believe you're not using the anti gravity, I find it adds just one more fleeting chance to keep that damn ball alive! Thx for your outline on what's powered through that fuse.
I believe they just meant not simultaneously. There is an added setting that allows both the right flipper and anti-gravity to be activated at the same time, but requires a larger fuse.
Quoted from orlandu81:Hello - just following up. After less than 2 weeks (and not that many plays) the perfectplay rubber post sleeves are even LESS durable than the titan skinny ones. I will be going back to the titans and I guess I'll just plan to change them every month at least...kind of a bummer.
I have not tried them yet myself, but I've heard of folks using these and saying they hold up really well.
Quoted from guitarded:Set the Adventure Card to 0 and nobody will have the occasion to complain.
Hahah! Truth.
Quoted from klr650:Does anyone know when the "Rick-Bot Circuits Activated" callout was added?
That made me so happy, Pinbot was my favourite pinball machine in the late 80's.
epthegeek, thanks for adding that!
I believe that was added in the update prior to the most recent January update.
4 weeks later
Quoted from modsbox:New R&M (2nd) owner here. Such a fantastic game. This one will be in my collection forever.
That said, I just performed two mods to my machine and had a few questions for the club.
First, I replaced the power supply fan with the quieter one via the PinMonk kit. A massive, massive difference. I couldn't *stand* the loud high-pitched whine of the original. Good news is that the mod went just fine (though not really a pleasant project given how hard it is to access the PSU), and I've confirmed that the new fan is in fact blowing air. The game plays great and is now nearly silent. A huge improvement.
However, now when I first turn on the machine I get a nice long sustained beep that remains for a good maybe 10 seconds or so before stopping. I'm concerned that it was triggered by the mod, and that perhaps the system or PSU thinks the fan isn't working. But as I mentioned I've confirmed that the fan is in fact blowing air properly, and have played the game just fine for 30-45 minutes at a time without any issues. I'm guessing that perhaps I just couldn't hear the beep before because the fan was so loud. Anyone care to comment on whether this is expected behavior? Does the game normally just beep for 10 seconds or so every time after first being turned on? Doesn't seem right but as I said everything is working properly and the beep stops eventually.
Second, I replaced the screen with the IPS screen mod kit from Pinball Mod Co. Here again the mod went great. The new screen (with the new acrylic screen protector I bought with it) looks fantastic... way deeper blacks and massively improved contrast. However, the color saturation is extreme. I need to tone it down quite a bit for the characters and graphics to look... correct. But via the display controller I only get a very limited adjustment menu. I can do brightness and (uselessly) volume, but the typical menu is not available. Instead I get an advanced/factory menu where I can only adjust R G B values for each of the various color temperature settings and switch between them. No contrast adjustment available at all, and the RGB changes I made don't seem to stick between power cycles. Any thoughts?
The beeping is not normal. Have you determined where the beep is coming from? Motherboard, the power supply you just put the quieter fan in or elsewhere?
3 weeks later
Quoted from darkryder:Those green acrylics look fantastic, I’ll take a set. Shoot me a PM when available. BTW, where did you get the figurines on top of your backbox?
Same here!
1 month later
Quoted from darkryder:I just ordered this plastic from Spooky, $36. Will leave the cracked one in the game and keep the spare.
[quoted image]
Holy moly! Was that for the clear ship hinge? Or are you talking about the cone that attaches to that under the ship? If just the hinge then those are only $1.95 at PinballLife!
Quoted from darkryder:Not the clear hinge plastic, the large plastic with artwork that covers the entire u-turn area under the ship. The crack bothers me and I wanted a spare in case these are hard to come by in the future.[quoted image][quoted image]
Ahh, that makes much more sense given the price. Thanks for clarifying!
3 weeks later
1 month later
1 week later
Quoted from epthegeek:Nope, it's a high score entry thing.
That might explain why I have not seen anything. I probably am not going to beat any high scores until I reset them since I have been sucking lately!
1 week later
Quoted from TigerLaw:Photos with the Stern mirror blades installed. They fit perfect. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Just so I can save this for future consideration, are these the mirror blades that you used?
https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/product-page/stern-mirror-blades
2 weeks later
Wanted to post this before I forget what the combination was on the 9.01 code:
Chose Random adventure/random any dimension.
It was the fart dimension and Pickle Rick. Rick said shoot the garage and I shot the scoop and the entire game rebooted.
Quoted from epthegeek:If you have a log with the crash dump that would be helpful.
Let me know if this helps. I chose Pickle Rick and d3d-SLi and it reboots the game if you shoot the scoop.
Quoted from epthegeek:New build posted - sorry for the rapid fire; but hopefully this will be it for now. https://soldmy.org/pin/rm/
Build 2022.09.02:
- Fixed: Crash error if you hit the scoop without mystery lit at the start of a pickle rick challenge mode
Awesome, glad you could find it because I was having trouble trying to recreate it after seeing the couple of times.
1 week later
Quoted from gliebig:Played fine a week ago. Just turned it on and stuck on this.
[quoted image]
Your CMOS battery appears to have died on the motherboard.
Quoted from DaddyManD:anyone know where to tap into 12v? Got the pinballmod co light kit but he says to plug into the PC power supply box which in his game (late build BSE) has two open 12v connectors. My build #65 does not have the same PC power supply box nor the 12v connectors. He is researching too but any thoughts would be welcome. Also interesting if the pins were built slightly differently over time as they came off the line? Any Spooky folks who can assist?
If you wanted a cleaner option that would allow for future expansion you could consider this:
https://www.pinballlife.com/accessory-power-supply-for-spooky-pinball-p-roc-system-machines.html
Quoted from Sprout:My perspective - the Multimorphic hardware is sufficiently documented. My paranoia surrounds an SSD that craps the bed for starters. I've yet to read how/where to restore to a fresh SSD. I've seen mention to just put in a fresh drive, and use the same image used for updating, but zero confirmation that this does indeed work - just "go talk to Spooky". Should I be pulling and imaging my existing drive? Does Spooky just hand out/sell replacement SSD's, or is there a "special restoration image" available that they hand out as needed? Shouldn't something like that be downloadable as needed if it's different from the normal update images? If the existing image works, that's awesome - but I've yet to see that confirmed.
I've also seen no details on requirements for a replacement PC motherboard, should the original fail. Is the software dependent upon a specific chipset in order to run? Will any old generic PC motherboard of the right form factor "just work"? Games fail at some point, and as noted, relying solely upon email support without having some common source of knowledge is (in my eyes) a real concern. I fix my own stuff, and would like to be prepared if I need to do this for my R&M at some point years down the road - well after any "official" support is long dead and unavailable.
The manual posted is better than nothing, and does have useful information - but contains nothing at all regarding the PC part of the system. If there is a resource out there with the above, I'm happy to be educated!
My understanding is that the answer to that is a big "NO" on putting a fresh drive in and then thinking you can flash the image with a USB and the image, unfortunately. What sounds like can work is taking a complete image of the current drive with something like dd from your current working drive in the game. I think Spooky mentioned looking into offering some sort of customer-facing restore utility but I am not sure that will come to fruition for Rick & Morty.
2 months later
Quoted from Var1AbL3:There are options for creating an "extra" better SSD for your game. First, the second drive needs to be at least the same size or larger than the original installed in the game. I believe the one in my game was 128GB but I got a 256 for the replacement.
Then for setting up the disk you can use Eric's rebuild image but you will lose all your high scores (unless you load those separately with a USB drive from a backup like you get when you update the game). The way I recommend and went myself is to use a Linux Utility that is on (or can be easily added to) MOST computers (Windows, Linux, and Mac) called DD (link below to instructions). Finally, there are other ways to CLONE or duplicate a drive that might be simpler (less command line) on your computer that is just a simple google search away. There is even a SATA drive cloning devices you can get if you want: amazon.com link »
To use DD check out this link: https://linuxhint.com/clone-disk-using-dd-linux/
Where can you get Eric's rebuild image at?
Quoted from luvthatapex2:Its in the instructions here:
https://soldmy.org/pin/rm/battery-replacement/
Ah thanks, I wonder if that applies to the Asrock board as well. I never saw this since the image isn't mentioned in those instructions. Guess I could just try it at some point with a new drive.
1 week later
4 weeks later
Quoted from Lounge:If any machine needs the keyed shafts it’s R&M. I have a set I haven’t installed yet but when I replaced the bushings to the Spooky (shorter) bushings, the clamps were garbage and I had to monkey with the clamp gaps to get them to bite again. The Spooky clamps are total crap.
I agree, I had to crank those down so tight I thought for sure I was going to shear the bolt right off of those.
3 weeks later
Quoted from snaroff:Any idea what could cause this ominous message (which results in the game not starting)? I emailed Spooky support but haven't heard back yet. Thx for any pointers.
[quoted image]
Is your motherboard even powering up? Assuming you have the Asrock board in there I wonder if your battery died, messed up the settings and now you need to check that and then power the board up by shorting the two pins shown in my screenshot and then getting into BIOS and setting the boot drive, Restore on AC/Power Loss, etc. I know there were PDF's on soldmy.org somewhere but I cannot locate them.
pasted_image (resized).png
Quoted from snaroff:Good move, human. Naive question: is the battery swap done with the machine on or off? IIRC, this made a difference for B/W games...
Ideally, do it while on, so you don't need to potentially redo settings again.
I'm guessing that battery is probably just one of these:
https://www.xump.com/science/cr2032-cmos-molex-51021-0200-b.cfm
2 weeks later
Quoted from johnnytruant:I've had the flippers and keyed shafts in my cart for 3 days now and haven't pulled the trigger because I can't settle on a freaking color choice.
I put far less thought into buying the actual machine than I have with this decision.
Same here lol. I have RaM standard so I am really having a tough choice as to whether to go with this new purple halographic or not.
1 week later
Quoted from WizardsCastle:Sorry, so does that mean we do have to replace batteries?
In Rick and Morty, yes.
Quoted from orlandu81:Hey R&M owners - I'm having an issue I've never seen before. The lights are all changing colors incorrectly. It's not just one bank of lights, it's literally all of them (including GI). The lights are all randomizing colors, including the counters and their digits during attract mode. During the game they are also screwy but not as wildly bad. I checked the backbox for a loose connection, anything else I can check?
The game did crash earlier today as well but then was working fine for 10 games or so. Not sure if this is related. I'm on the latest code, should I just reinstall it?[quoted image]
I believe there are 3 or 4 RGB boards on the underside of the playfield. Check those as they probably have hot glue on the ribbon cables that has given up holding and they have gotten loose enough to cause strange issues with colors.
Quoted from guitarded:Just installed Precision Flippers (Green Halos) on my Rick and Morty on Friday night. Flippers, Keyed Shafts and PF Bushings.
Marked improvement from the original Flippers / Mechs / X-Spacers setup I have been running since new.
I was able to drop my power settings and still have better performance, repeatability of shots and little to no fade on the longer games.
Ex. The Left Ramp shot no longer has to be immaculate to make it up there with the machine set up steep.
Install was quick and pretty painless. (Just remember to install the short, factory screws on all spots that are directly underneath the Play Surface.)
I can certainly endorse these based on a couple days of flipping on them. All of the benefits I was hoping for in addition to the amazing Candy factor.
Would love to see pictures. I struggled for days trying to decide on silver, purple, or green halos and ended up with silver.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Var1AbL3:Hey fellow Spooky fans. I bought my R&M second hand and the original buyer didn't get the portal speaker lights. So, I ordered a kit from Spooky. I was able to use my UM as a template to install the metal covers and light rings inside...but, I have absolutely no idea where to hook them up. UM has a little board with an arduino plugged onto the PC Rm does not. I did get a couple of little power splitters that say TNA on them.
So, could someone get a picture or tell me the location the speaker lights plug in?
I emailed Spooky but am working on it today when they are OOO.
I guess I don't know how this looks without the lights but here you go. Hope this might help make sense out of it.
20230401_145300 (resized).jpgspeaker lights (resized).pngQuoted from Var1AbL3:That was exactly what I needed and they are all hooked up now. Thanks!
Awesome, glad to hear!
2 weeks later
Quoted from PinPilot:Update (Thanks for all the suggestions)
Spoke with AJ at Spooky. He had me check the voltage on the CPU battery. It was 3.0, so he suggested I change it. I put a new one in reading 3.32 volts.
AJ said to install a USB dongle keyboard so I could hit F12 and Delete to get into the BIOS. He wanted me to see if the main drive was showing up. Honestly I don't know if it is, as Spooky was closed by the time I did it. The BOOT tab did not refer to any drive, at least not that I saw.
When I booted the game back up, it booted directly into BIOS. I didn't have to press F12 & Delete. Maybe because I temporarily removed the CPU battery when I changed it? The date and time were not correct, so I set them and selected "Save and Exit". It kept returning to the Bios page after selecting that (no power cycle).
I power cycled it, and now I have a blank screen. No BIOS or anything.
AJ had me send a photo of all the boards. He said they would ship me out a new CPU if we couldn't figure it out.
We're gonna reconvene tomorrow and see what we can figure out. I must say I'm VERY impressed with Spooky's support. When I got the machine, the plastic portal (green circle) for the topper was missing, and the backglass was missing. Spooky sent me both GRATIS! I'm quickly becoming a fan of Spooky Pinball. This was my first machine from them.
I will update as to what happens.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
If you suspect the low battery caused your settings to get messed up, you could refer to this to check things: https://soldmy.org/pin/rm/battery-replacement/odroid.html
Quoted from PinPilot:MINOR UPDATE:
I'm able to get the BIOS to come up by pushing button on the top right corner of the CPU. There are two blue lights and one red light on the CPU.
However under the boot menu, the Spooky option is not shown, as it is the guide linked to above.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Why don't I see a drive plugged into any of your SATA ports? Does this version of the CPU have on-board storage or something? I'm used to seeing the Asrock board with an SSD hanging off it.
Edit: Nevermind, I see there is likely an M.2 drive that is on the backside of that board. Might be worth a try to take that off so you can re-seat that M.2 drive just in case.
3 weeks later
Quoted from durgee7:I got a few plays in. I had no idea how fast amd flowy this pin would play.
I found a couple of loose pieces in the cabinet. Does anyone know if these are important? I'm hoping they're scrap pieces.
Thanks
[quoted image]
The rod looks like the post that makes the ship bobble
Quoted from durgee7:Got a quick response from Spooky and they confirmed the installation for the rod. I didn't get a response on my need to purchase a new gray plastic/spacer/guide. I'll need to do more digging and see if it's offered through PBL or Marco. Thanks everyone!
Knowing Spooky, they will just send you the part for free. It's just a 3d printed part I believe.
1 week later
Quoted from pinheadpierre:These seem to be the plugs that control the malfunctioning optos. Unplugging them stops the misfire. These in turn feed here (none of which correspond to my error readout or the manual unless I’m totally missing something).
Ideas?
[quoted image][quoted image]
Keep in mind, Spooky didn't make that wiring spreadsheet, perhaps it has errors.
Quoted from pinheadpierre:Good to know. It’s the only one I could find. Did Spooky make schematics for R&M??
I wish! People were pleading for that for ages. Finally got some schematics for the Warden board in Scooby-Doo, so they are making progress, but do not seem to want to put any effort into documentation for previous games. I'll see if I can snap a pic of that opto board in by game in a bit so you can at least compare.
1 week later
2 months later
Quoted from jonesjb:I turned on my Rick and Morty and see this error. Can someone please point me in the right direction how to rectify?
[quoted image]
Here you go! Looks like it's time for a new CR2032 battery.
Quoted from jonesjb:Thanks for that, I assume before resetting the bios, I'll need to actually buy and replace the battery... Which ones are good to buy, is there a more long term solution, thanks.
Yep, you will want a new battery first. Panasonic is a great brand for CR2032's. I don't know of another solution, this should get you another 3+ years. If you can time it right next time, you can change it before it dies while the game is on and you won't have to redo any of the BIOS settings.
Quoted from northerndude:I got this bunch on Amazon[quoted image]
From his screenshot, it appears he has the AsRock board, that just has a regular CR2032, without the leads.
Quoted from jonesjb:I have this board… does this not require the leads?[quoted image]
No, it does not. Just a regular CR2032.
2 weeks later
Quoted from nogoodnames222:My megaseed-tree ramp support cracked; is the PMC upgrade the way to go or is there an option that doesn't cost a hundred bucks? I'm not a big mod guy, just worried about function.
I'd email Spooky, they would probably send you out a replacement!
1 month later
Quoted from jonesjb:Edit: For what it's worth, when I take the battery out and turn on the pin, I get the F1/F2 screen. When I put a new battery I get the blank screen.
I'm using a Macbook magic keyboard plugged in via usb. Does this make a difference?
That seems extremely strange. If you have a PC keyboard then that is worth a try. Another thought is, if you can get into bios with the battery out, go ahead and set all the settings then stick your new battery in. You are only going to lose them when you power off without a battery in there.
Quoted from monkfe:hmmm...I'm 9-1-22 code...is that the latest...may have missed it...
Yeah! Go grab the latest, it shows the fix.
Build 2023.03.22:
- Fixed: Crash if Adventure ball save time is set to "OFF" and adventure starts with multiball.
- Fixed: If you A) were in a dimension, and B) charged the meter, and then C) Drained - the topper would keep running.
- Fixed: Blood Dome adventure high score when not in challenge wouldn't award/prompt.
Quoted from modsbox:Can anyone here by chance tell me where I can purchase a matching replacement coin door lock for this machine?
I managed to misplace the keys to my Rick & Morty, and was pleasantly surprised to discover that the backbox lock I purchased from Pinball Life (which said H95 on it, just like the one my machine came with) included a key that just worked in the existing lock.
Ideally I'd like to buy a coin door lock with a key that also just works with the existing lock, and my lock says F04 on the front of it. My guess is if I can just purchase the same lock (with the same numbering on the front) that the key it comes with will work. So far the two replacement locks I purchased don't match the existing and not surprisingly the keys don't work.
So that's the question, anyone know where to purchase the same F04 coin door lock that Spooky uses on these machines so I've got a good shot at the key it comes with just working on my existing lock?
I ordered a lockpick kit so I can hopefully just get it open and simply replace the lock, but it'd be easier to just find a lock that comes with a key that works on it.
I would probably reach out to Spooky - they seem to use that same lock on most of their games that I've seen. My Rick and Morty and Scooby uses the same F04.
2 weeks later
Quoted from epthegeek:It’s just code related, it’s nothing to do with the PROC. I added functionality to “mute” the callouts during Get Schwifty and Goodby Moonmen because *HATE* games with lyrics that have callouts talking over them. Even though it’s got checks and re-checks and resets and .. and .. and — There’s still some loophole situation that can get the mute flag stuck. I can’t figure out why, or I would have fixed it by now.
To be fair, I think I remember this happening maybe 4 or 5 times in 1000 games on my machine. I'm just thinking to myself how difficult to reproduce and find what is causing it has got to be.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Ceemunkey:So I'm now having this same problem - if i switch on the machine I get nothing but a blank screen and the playfield lights come on but remain static.
If I remove the CMOS battery I will get the bios screen which I can get past using the keyboard, and the game will start successfully. If I put the battery back in, we go back to the blank screen.
Not sure what the problem is - I suppose it's some setting in the bios? So do I need to remove the battery to get to the bios, then re-do all the settings and put the battery back in?
Such a strange problem, and i've literally just replaced the CPU a few days ago.
Sounds like your battery might need replaced (and your settings), have you checked this out?
2 months later
Quoted from northerndude:Anyone have spare sling plastics replacements for sale? I chipped a piece out of my right sling plastic. (and I have plastic protectors, like they did any good)
Pinball Life sells an entire set, but I bet if you were to contact Spooky you could just get the piece you need and save money.
https://www.pinballlife.com/rick-morty-playfield-plastic-set.html
2 months later
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:Anyone had similar flipper issues before with R&M? My upper right flipper for some time has semi regularly failed to flip, or sometimes flipped late. Today, my son who's been playing it a fair bit recently believes the lower right flipper is exhibiting similar issues. I'm yet to open her up to take a look yet, thought I'd yell out first incase the problem has been previously discussed and solved.
I'd take a look at your flipper button since the right side is a staged flipper.
Quoted from pinballM:on your link there is no spring, only the spaceship, not the same:
[quoted image]
It is the same, Spooky modified the item to work with the game.
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