(Topic ID: 257850)

Official Rick and Morty Club - You are not like other carbon based life forms.

By TheNoTrashCougar

4 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

106 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #256 Rules posted by Eric as of Feb 2020 Posted by epthegeek (4 years ago)

Post #510 R&M Options Posted by Morinack (4 years ago)

Post #589 Useful post for coin door comparison. Posted by NeilMcRae (4 years ago)

Post #637 More code rules - Adventures full lost Posted by epthegeek (4 years ago)

Post #745 Club thread reminder. Posted by TigerLaw (4 years ago)

Post #748 Cards for the game rules and what not. Posted by Coindropper (4 years ago)

Post #751 Darker outline for instruction cards. Posted by Coindropper (4 years ago)

Post #976 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Wireform ball launch and coil adjustment Posted by timmmmyboy (4 years ago)

Post #1006 TECH:Pitch recommendation from Scott. Posted by TheNoTrashCougar (4 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#4976 3 years ago

Super update. FYI the video got a little choppy during multi ball and the ball on the right dropped 3 seconds before the one on the left (instead of dropping together) Next multi ball was fine. Not complaining or anything, just letting you know.

Keep up the SUPER work and thanks again for a great game!!!

#4984 3 years ago

Can anyone please post a photo of the knocker installed? I got one after the fact and want to make sure I’m putting it in the correct place and not interfering with the speaker magnets or anything

Thanks!

#4986 3 years ago

they do. They say to mount on the bottom left, but there are cutouts there. Just want to make sure.

#4991 3 years ago

my man

0d68eac4f9347ccd8fd60591a1aa3fdc (resized).jpg0d68eac4f9347ccd8fd60591a1aa3fdc (resized).jpg
#5125 3 years ago

Now I wish someone made a Rick and Morty barstool.

Stool Morty

Screen Shot 2020-08-18 at 2.28.39 PM (resized).jpgScreen Shot 2020-08-18 at 2.28.39 PM (resized).jpg
#5182 3 years ago
Quoted from ripple:

I think the flexing piece of plastic is going to need an upgrade or redesign to work long term.
[quoted image]

Looks like this was the second one reported doing that. Add another 2-3 for people who didn’t post, and say 200 machines are out there. (Rounding for simplicity)

That’s a 3% failure rate this soon on the part. I see pinlife sells replacements. I guess stock up!

#5183 3 years ago

Does anyone else’s video get super laggy after about an hour of play? It started dropping frames all over the place. I had to reboot the machine a few times to fix it. Maybe a memory leak somewhere? Hopefully fixed in a code update, just wondering if anyone else has seen this?

The upper right flipper even started to half fire a few times.

#5185 3 years ago
Quoted from TomGWI:

Was it right after Meekseeks MB? If it was it is a bug and be worked on.

Yep around or after multi ball. That’s what I thought. I’m sure it’ll get fixed, just always happy not to be the only one. Thanks!

#5192 3 years ago

As always. Thanks for the diligence on the updates!!! I’ll load it up ASAP!

#5225 3 years ago

I was playing the other day and mid game I saw something slide down the play field. A plastic protector cracked in half on the left side.

Maybe there is something wrong with the plastic?

#5227 3 years ago

Under noob noob. Not that you need to see a broken piece of plastic, but behold...

1C8F3BA4-92AA-4087-905A-CEF3E70DD1C4 (resized).jpeg1C8F3BA4-92AA-4087-905A-CEF3E70DD1C4 (resized).jpeg
#5263 3 years ago

Quick question for you guys.

My top right flipper stopped working. The other day it was a half firing about 10 times but it worked itself out. Going into the test menu, the flipper fires just fine. I checked all the connections and they look ok, even reset the game to factory default. I’m a bit at a loss because if it was a connection, why would it fire in the test menu? I’m sure it’s something simple. Thanks a million.

#5273 3 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

Spooky games have that already.

Semi false alarm. That right flipper button with the plastic extender piece. It needs so much adjusting.

#5283 3 years ago

Is that 30 dollars for the one piece? I guess that would depend on how it looks and if they'll proactively do anything to fix these. I'd hate for you to spin your wheels and they send everyone out a free hinged replacement. Your efforts are definitely appreciated. Every time I look at a different part of this game, i cross myself because I see a new piece of plastic that will probably break.

Quoted from JustEverett:

Follow-up on this as I decide whether to move forward with design and production. I'm looking about ~$500 at least up front costs into this fix plus variable cost of material and time going forward. I figure my breakeven will be selling about 100 units at $30. I see pinball life has the replacement plastic available for $2. The fix I'm coming up with would be a 1 time fix and it would never break again.
So would all the owners rather just keep replacing the plastic with the Pinball life replacement? Or would everyone be willing to spend $30 for a lifetime fix?

#5284 3 years ago

Same place roughly as in all of them. Is there some stress point on these? Why is it breaking right there?

Quoted from Kevlar:

Another noobnoob "protector" bites the dust...[quoted image]

#5297 3 years ago

epthgeek,

You know what be just the tits? I do love the cutscenes during attract mode. After all, the cable episodes were some of the best.. It would be super nice if we could specify a custom volume for those. It's a bit of an issue having those at the same awesome volume as when you are actually playing the game. I'd like to turn them down to 1, to have them play in the background without everyone turning their heads or wondering where the sound is coming from in a different room.

#5299 3 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

This is a reasonable request (personally, I hate audio in attract modes, but I get it for locations). I will see what I can do.

As rick says about noob noob.. "This guy gets it"

I am not a fan of audio in attract mode either, but damn those cutscenes are the best.

#5312 3 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

I think we have a fairly nice selection of custom mods for this awesome game. All are available and in stock from our store.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rick-and-morty-custom-mod-collection-new-themodcouple
www.TheModCouplePinball.com

Looking for a custom micro verse battery like you made the hot wheels one in the dollar Bill acceptor. Wink wink. Btw. Blades are in and fantastic!

#5353 3 years ago

Quick test with a comment

1. When starting a game during an attract mode cable clip, the game starts but the clip audio still plays in the background.

Keep on keepin on. Appreciate the work as always.

Quoted from epthegeek:

Early reports from testers say the slowdown issue is improved, so ...
New public build available, you can grab it here until the Spooky page is updated: https://soldmy.org/rm-gamecode-20200826.pkg
Build 2020.08 26:
- Added: Independent volume control setting for attract mode cable clips.
- Fixed: Adventure Selector didn't pause ball search, could eject the ball if you didn't hit the flippers at all while the timer counted down.
- Fixed: Corrected Morty position on initials of less width than the score string on the new 'champ' pages.
- Changed: New Logic to allow repeat inner loop shots to charge the spinner more than the base of 3x regular shot.
- Changed: Tweak made to the attract mode video handling based on reports of slowdown issues with the display.
Full Changelog can be found at https://soldmy.org/rm_changelog.txt

#5356 3 years ago

Another audio issue.

1. The portal noise when counting mega seeds sometimes carries over if it’s the last ball when Rick is using the screwdriver and counting.

Just reporting. Take your time!

Quoted from epthegeek:

Derp. That will be fixed in the next build - not something important enough to do in a hurry (like the slowdown issue) - but thanks!

#5369 3 years ago

Curious for those who just got theirs. Pinball life has a disc replacement for the right flipper button as is in the photo below. My game has a long thin piece of plastic that flexes to contact the switch. Are newer games coming with the disc instead? I can just see that being another piece that cracks when it flexes.

6b58ee5dac36572f0f93d877c12723e3eb4ef35b_2_300x300 (resized).jpg6b58ee5dac36572f0f93d877c12723e3eb4ef35b_2_300x300 (resized).jpg
#5429 3 years ago

Did you just try to update it? Format the USB disk as fat32. I've actually had it bonk out on me if I don't format first for some reason. Download the file again from a different browser. I also had an issue on chrome once. Copy the file and boot with the disk inserted. Even if the OS is totally hosed doing that will rewrite the entire image to the disk. If all that doesn't work, try a different USB disk.

#5431 3 years ago

give that a try, they are going to have you do it anyway to troubleshoot plus there is the 0826 version out.

#5434 3 years ago

Yeah I think you should get something. At least you can skip a step talking to them. Sorry. Do report back what the problem was, genuinely interested!

#5452 3 years ago
Quoted from BillyPilgrim:

Yes, replaced the little battery and my game is up and running again. Thanks Christopher!

Super Super!! Was there any talk of a USB short or anything that would have drained that battery?

#5464 3 years ago

My board looks like a different model. Does anyone know if they changed motherboards or the model of this one? The CMOS battery looks to be attached through that connector.

IMG_3465 (resized).jpegIMG_3465 (resized).jpeg
#5467 3 years ago
Quoted from Borygard:

That's the computer used in the first builds. The Asrock computer used from about game #80 on, is the one in the image from KingPinGames.
--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

Neat to know! Thanks. Would anyone happen to know the model of the board? I’d love to look it up.

#5504 3 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Wubba lubba dub dub!!! 162 is in the house!
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B11GDZLe8GTB5yF
I took a few live photos and a 4k walkaround video to try and show off the butter - it really is stunning in person. ZERO regrets on that.
The sound system in this game is the best I've heard in a pin - awesome bass. Unfortunately this translates into massive, and I mean MASSIVE glass rattle.
I'm about to try padding it with some fuzzy velcro - anyone else run into this and have words of wisdom?

Zip tie worked ok for me. I put one on each side. You can adjust the amp a lot, bass, treble, volume, sub power. I turned my volume down and increased it on the game. That way I put the attract videos on volume 1 and they aren't too loud but the game blasts. If you really wanted to, you could turn down the bass to help with the rattle.

Take the foam off from around the ship! The butter cab looks fantastic though. Thanks for the great photos!

#5506 3 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Well this sucks. Second play broke the game. Shot the scoop, ball did not eject for a long time. Now I can't start a game, start button fires the scoop VUK and does nothing else.
Anyone have suggestions to diagnose?

Are you updated? All the balls are in? Maybe eject the balls and put them back? Just guesses.

Also maybe try a factory reset.

I found I had to tweak the settings for some of the coils. It would be nice to not only have the optimum flipper positions in a photo, like mentioned before, but also what people are setting their coils at.

#5509 3 years ago
Quoted from gliebig:

Are you on most recent code? I had some issues with the code it was shipped with. Updated and all good.

Just out of curiosity, what code did it ship with?

#5512 3 years ago

thats nice they update the code before shipping. I am glad they just didn't flash 700 boards at once and leave it up to you to update it. What nice guys!

maybe two contacts touching? For some reason my left flippers bottom part of the switch was bent bridged, causing the flipper to stay up. Happened randomly one time and just had to bend the bottom parts (with the solder) apart.

#5677 3 years ago
Quoted from ArcadeBar:

Put a color changer in both scoops,
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

What kind of color changing LED/Socket does one use to light up the scoop? Do you have a photo of it mounted? It looks super neat!

#5726 3 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

Oooooh, I didn’t actually look at that. It’s less surprising that it got updated so fast then. I always take it down after a while because they had been putting up the file locally.

Have a beer, enjoy your friday

#5728 3 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

I don't still have 8.26, but here's a hot fresh 9.11 build - I linked the 8.26 URL to the new file so the spooky page will work, too.
https://soldmy.org/rm-gamecode-20200911.pkg
Build 2020.09.11:
- Added: Ability to award more than 1 bonus credit in the bonus credit action.
- Added: Setting for optional knocker fire on extra ball collect.
- Added: New sounds settings that let you adjust Music/Voice/SFX
- Fixed: Get Schwifty FACTS page was missing
- Fixed: If Replay EB was the first EB earned, there was a logic problem that
would eat the next EB lit.
- Fixed: Flooble crank light lock LED wasn't coming on correctly at end of MB
- Fixed: FACTS page extra ball info was using the wrong variable
- Fixed: System will silence all audio before starting game to kill cable video
audio if playing.
- Changed: Complete rewrite of display handling for attract mode

this guy... this is the guy right here

2 weeks later
#6050 3 years ago

Did the start button ALWAYS flash during the entire game? Mine is doing that after today’s update. Maybe it’s something I didn’t notice.

Edit
After a few more games it flashes randomly per ball. IE.. ball one this game flashes and ball three. Ball two and three the start button flashes next.

#6052 3 years ago

Let me take a video of it and I’ll post. It’s not hurting anything. Just thought it was off. Thanks for all the hard work as always

#6057 3 years ago
Quoted from Rarehero:If you put some ants in your eyes, you'll never even notice!

also, I can't feel anything either, did I mention that? But that's not as catchy, as having ants in your eyes, so... that always goes... y'know, off by the wayside!

#6151 3 years ago

Three question if anyone can answer.

1. Between balls, if you hit the flippers, the slam lights change letters, does that mean anything?

2. Dimpling. See photo. Those that had the playfield redone, how is yours holding up? I have put a ton of plus on mine. No complaints, no more than everyday life.

3. Shooter strength. I cannot find a good value. I put it one down, it makes it half way, one up, it hits the top and bounces back. Can we have a 50% value at f the settings?

BB37E2A4-E13C-47B8-97BB-DB4E3F1C9C3A (resized).jpegBB37E2A4-E13C-47B8-97BB-DB4E3F1C9C3A (resized).jpeg

1 week later
#6479 3 years ago

Download the update again, format the usb stick as fat32 and try again. Happened to me once before.

Quoted from ThePinballCo-op:

Uhh... what? This happened after the last posted update. epthegeek
[quoted image]

#6491 3 years ago

Would it be possible to change the ball eject? Them popping into the shooting lane and having to stick a finger in there to pop it up is a little weird. I would hate to accidentally hit the gun and break it.

Would be nice if they popped out, then shot up to catch rolling down.

#6496 3 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

Are you talking about the service menu "empty the balls" thing? Maybe you should all have a janky whitewood like me. There's no gun in the way on mine.

Yeah. The lit portal gun makes it so you have to pop them up quickly as they come out with one finger.

You mean a collectors edition.

#6693 3 years ago
Quoted from jeffspinballpalace:

MeeThinks it is your usb stick. Buy a new one and I suggest getting one that is 16 Gigs. It will be already be formatted for FAT32 so DO NOT reformat. Your problem and the last thing to mention .... make sure it is USB 3.0 and not USB 2.0. The former works, the latter doesn’t. Good luck and report back.

????? No idea where this is coming from. ALWAYS format your stick before using it for anything, not just a pinball update. A USB 2 stick works just fine, it just takes an extra 12 seconds. Brands of sticks could sometimes be flaky. Never had too many problems with Sandisks, but kingstons have always been hit or miss.

#6814 3 years ago

Anyone else having issues with the pop bumper? I keep adjusting the switch, but after a few dozen games the gap is wider again and I need to close it a little or else the ball will just hit the bumper and roll to the flipper.

#6906 3 years ago

Possible bug:

I was letting the time run out for the mission select from the 30 count (I was opening another beer). At about 12 seconds left, the ball spit out and I quickly caught it and played for a few seconds. The mission select was still on and the flippers, as I was hitting the ball, were still changing missions. I hit launch and the mission started, all while the ball was in play.

Latest 10.12 code. Would have grabbed logs, but I believe logging is turned off on the prod releases?

#6908 3 years ago
Quoted from JustEverett:

Spooky love fest over here.
[quoted image]

I’ve always wanted to try TNA.

#6913 3 years ago

Was thinking about running to an external sub. Would I run the cables directly to it, if it’s powered? Or does the amp need to be bypassed for it?

#6945 3 years ago

Silly question. Why doesn’t the game cut power like others when the coin door is open? Speaking from someone with only 2 pinball games.

#7138 3 years ago

If you’re going to spend 1k I would rather have the play field redone.

#7184 3 years ago

How loose should the bottom flubble crank screw be? Took mine off to replace the post rubbers. Man those get beat up to all hell.

8B55EA43-22CC-4983-87C6-5620F2C8F702 (resized).jpeg8B55EA43-22CC-4983-87C6-5620F2C8F702 (resized).jpeg
#7323 3 years ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

I’m interested in this also. Is it merely removing the cabinet subwoofer wires and running them out the speaker hole to a passive boxed sub?

Yep. Easy peasy. You can even crimp a connection for them if you like. Some people just use alligator clips. I would loop the wire around something inside though in case it gets pulled you aren’t yanking on anything.

#7327 3 years ago
Quoted from gac:

But can you have both hooked up at the same time? Assuming so, would you just clip to the connectors on the cabinet sub and run them to the external sub? Or would this cause a problem because of the amp?

Most decent subs take both active and passive signals, so no it should be fine.

#7344 3 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Unless something changed I simple unplugged the provided plug and done. No cutting wires.
[quoted image]

Whoa. That looks so familiar.

1 week later
#7713 3 years ago

I mean these are on location as well. Think of the guys paying 2 dollars a game. They’ll never see anything beyond 2 dimensions.

#7802 3 years ago

I’d love to turn off the magna save of the ball isn’t on play. My 2 year old loves it!

#7913 3 years ago

Why didn’t you staple or screw through the screen to put it back on?

#7914 3 years ago

Anyone who tests the betas see any lately? Wondering when a new code update will be? No rush, just curious.

#7916 3 years ago
Quoted from Kevlar:

Last Beta was 10 days ago, when there's a gap it usually means they're waiting for something to be approved.

Well then I definitely can wait!

#7920 3 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Because I wanted the MDF ring to be tight against the cabinet. The screen doesn't provide much protection (cloth, not metal) and it removes a variable that *could* contribute to rattling.

True. Just curious. I’d always be paranoid my 2 year old would poke it, just because it’s exactly what he shouldn’t be doing.

#7923 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

I remember reading a previous post from you where you mentioned he loves pressing the magna-save for the same reason... on that one you could put a really stiff spring behind the button

You would actually be surprised. I sit him at the game and not saying he is good or anything, but I’ll be damned if he can’t hit the ball at least 5 times.

If I reply to a text for two seconds and look up, the magna save is drained. Good for him, wouldn’t have it any other way. I love my kids.

#8054 3 years ago

Titan pinball has has a sale today. As everyone else, I would suggest changing everything! But..... does anyone have the divinities rubber guide? The one on titan pinball is missing about 4.

I still can’t get the pop number to pop correctly. I’ve adjusted the switch so many times, but the gap always widens. Yes all the nuts are there and right.

Lastly, how loose is the fluble crank lock nut? I had to remove mine to change the post sleeves and I forgot to check before taking it off. It seems to tight won’t let the metal pole jump.

Happy Thanksgiving all!

#8059 3 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Clean the contacts of your pop switch with a clean piece of printer paper.

Answered two of my questions. I feel so special. Happy Thanksgiving. Your game is amazing. One day I hope to come across a TNA.

#8117 3 years ago

Sorry!! Still looking for a rubber list before the titan sale end. I ordered a set and it was short 5.

Btw. The glow in the dark one are just the best.

#8423 3 years ago

Oh no! Was it damaged?

#8516 3 years ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

The turning off bit isn’t necessary. You can leave the game on and plug in the USB. When the system detects the stick, it will stop the game and dump the files. You just want to make sure there’s no game update file on the USB stick.

So is debug mode always enabled now then?

3 weeks later
#9492 3 years ago

Having an issue with some of the coils not firing. Neither the top or bottom flippers fire, the ball shoot coil, and the knocker. The left flipper does fire. Those are all i found so far, i'll start testing the rest.

Any ideas?

#9495 3 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Sounds like you blew one of the fuses.
Check the fuses on the boards in the backbox on the left where all the transistors are.

Looking at the switch test these are open for some reason although looking at the switches they don’t look closed.

1B6D3C69-8FF7-48ED-8D81-2284EBD69622 (resized).jpeg1B6D3C69-8FF7-48ED-8D81-2284EBD69622 (resized).jpeg
#9499 3 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Two targets up, 4 balls in the trough, one captive ball. Seems right.
Did you pull the fuses on the boards with the transistors and check them with a multimeter. Losing a section of coils/flashers is usually a blown fuse.

You are just on top of things! Yeah blown fuse. Oh well. But I think I might know why the cooler was making noise. I’ll pm you. Thanks as always.

#9665 3 years ago

I feel so silly for even asking this. I’ve done this a zillion times on other games. I’m working on things, so I decided to lower the flippers per Scott’s recommendation. However I can’t get the damn things tight enough. They keep jumping up a little higher after a few games. The Alan screw/bolt is on pretty tight but they just won’t stay. Any ideas? Am I just that weak? Ha!

#9667 3 years ago

Oh no no. I don’t mean the nut, my fault. The flippers themselves at rest I mean.

#9671 3 years ago

Thanks both of you!

Quoted from guitarded:

Someone mentioned that the linkages tend to do that once they have been torqued a good time, once or twice already and will likely need replacing to get that grip again.
So, if you have replacements, swap them.
I don't have my R&M yet...But if these are the type I am thinking they are, it might be possible to add a washer or two and get a hint more bite (at some fresher threads)? I have had that work on the clamping style mechs I am guessing these are.

#9686 3 years ago

After swapping flippers and trying my hardest, I just can't get the flipper to stop creeping up after a game or two. i am just going to replace the crank. Before I go getting the wrong one, this is the part (the new one) correct?

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-right-flipper-plunger-and-crank-assembly.html

1 week later
#9992 3 years ago

Please add me to the list as well!

#10174 3 years ago

I have an odd issue with fuses blowing randomly after about 60 games. What usually happens is the right flippers become unresponsive. I usually check all the fuses just in case, but that one is always blown and the other fuse that is on the right side usually has a bubble on the strand. I've lifted the playfield a bunch of times and checked and rechecked nothing is touching anything else when any flippers are fired or buttons pushed. Any ideas? Spooky support suggested i check to make sure the flipper button switch wasn't touching the ball launch coil, but everything looks good. It's just odd it happens so many games in between. I would think if there was an issue, I would see it every couple of games the minimum. My flipper power settings are only 2 above the default.

Thanks all!

1 week later
#10335 3 years ago

Arg... still trying to narrow down my right flipper fuse blowing problem. I’ve ran the coil test a couple dozen times and nothing blew. 12 games in, flippers on the right dead again. I made sure no switches were touching anything, even putting a small strip of electrical tape on the back of some. Waiting on a reply from spooky support with any ideas, but.....

1. Do you guys know what else is on the fuse the right flipper is? (I know the shooter is). I’d like to narrow it down just to things that fuse powers, and more importantly, not miss anything.

2. Any other ideas what it might be? I’m sure I checked nothing was touching, even when switches or coils were active. I am sure it’s something simple.

Thanks!!!!

2 weeks later
#10821 3 years ago

I reallllllllly wish there was a way to backup your save and settings to restore. Every update I have to redo everything.

Quoted from jguzik420:

Yay! It worked! Thanks everybody. High scores got deleted, but that's OK. Scores were meant to be broken
[quoted image]

#10823 3 years ago

Every time? Yeah I would say so. The high scores erasing one hurts sometimes. Nice to see family scores that visit once or twice a year. Just good memories is all.

Quoted from Edenecho:

Is it much to do? Free play, ball save off, tournament settings on?

#10912 3 years ago

count me in for one!!! My ship broke a week ago, and am SO TIRED of taking this game apart more than playing it.

Thanks!

Quoted from toyotaboy:

So metal ship brackets came in today.. this is how they come (raw metal printing, burn marks from the laser)
[quoted image]
After a few minutes of rubbing with a green scrubby, it shines up well
[quoted image]
I'm considering painting them black, or white (to match the 3d printed ship mount) so it blends in more.. Or is that cardinal sin like painting a stainless delorean? Either way, even though I have parts in hand it's going to take me a little bit to clean the surface of at least 40 parts.

1 week later
#11176 3 years ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

Went with the bill door in case someone comes up with a mod, did anyone come up with a mod for it? Modcouple usually does shadowboxes.

There were talks a long time ago about a microverse mod from a few. But I haven't heard anything about that in like 6? months.

#11195 3 years ago

Agreed. Just did the same and I’m happy. Just wish they at least had markers on them for where to drill the holes. But that’s a small complaint for how great they are.

Quoted from cooked71:

Just installed the 2 magnetic switches on the upper right loops. Like night and day - had no idea how many shots were being “missed”.
Why aren’t these used more regularly? Cost?
Included installation instructions were a little confusing but worked my way through it. If anyone else wants some more detailed instructions with photos let me know.
[quoted image]

#11390 3 years ago

Pin that post!!!

1 week later
#11676 3 years ago

Ugggggghhh

So another update, another time the scores and settings got wiped. Usually when it fails it goes to completed right away, but this time it hung on updating for 45 minutes. I finally power cycled and tried again and things successfully took.

I really wish there was a way to back these up and restore.

Complaining aside, great update and thanks as always for all the work put into this!

#11697 3 years ago

It matters to some people. Don’t be an ass

Quoted from rotordave:

Seriously - who cares?
Now you get the chance to set all the high scores again.

rd

1 week later
#11968 3 years ago

Really great and I am sure everyone appreciates all the work you put into this, especially since you are doing it for the benefit of the community.

One small comment. The landscape page formatting is driving me nuts. Is that just me, or does everyone see it like that?

I’d love to actually print this out and put it in a binder.

Quoted from KingPinGames:

Alright, as most of you know, I (attempt) to make the manuals for the spooky games. They are extremely basic since I don't do this for a living. I have tried to make them full of the information that is needed.
If there are any suggestions please shoot me an email as to not clog up this thread
[email protected]
Thank you
Seems it is too large to attache, but this is the link
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qLahfsbGeZUE7l4lo5Sl3jJaMcClAqag/view?usp=sharing

#11976 3 years ago

I’ve never had a jjp pinball and you made it. So let me stop complaining and just say thanks again. It’s always great to have a manual.

Quoted from KingPinGames:

Yeah. It was done to mimic the jjp printed manuals since they are the very best of manuals. Also, I find myself using landscape on my phone, tablet, etc to get more on the page.

3 weeks later
#12520 3 years ago

Try a usb 2.0 stick. Also did you try a full format as opposed to quick? Also are you sure it’s fat32 and not exfat

Quoted from Steve44:

I’ve lost my R+M...
I can’t get it to accept the latest update. Have tried 15 different USB sticks, 3.0’s, and all formatted.
Even tried downloading the update via different browsers. The CMOS battery is fine.
The March updated worked first time. Spooky are at a loss.. any clues/help gratefully received!
I need my R+M fix.. (even if it is cruel to me!)
Thanks!

1 week later
#12952 2 years ago

Ive tried reseating these a few times. Can anyone confirm just one side of each lights up?

69F139C5-0604-49E5-AFB9-12C8DBEA2B99 (resized).jpeg69F139C5-0604-49E5-AFB9-12C8DBEA2B99 (resized).jpeg
#13151 2 years ago

i haven't yet, but really think it's a super idea! Would love to hear others thoughts. I've just been a little lazy lately.

Quoted from jonesjb:

Has anyone tried my fix for the scoop rejects? I’ve been running it for a week and it now accepts all legit shots reliably.

#13275 2 years ago

The noob noob plastic on mine broke last October and I wasn't the first owner. While I inquired about the same beforehand, when the plastic broke, I was told since I wasn't the first owner, they would have to charge the part + shipping. Oh well.

Quoted from dferg24:

Thanks everyone for the responses regarding the warranty. Spookyluke responded very quickly and advised that while the warranty doesn’t technically transfer they would do all they could to help if any issues arise.

#13346 2 years ago

I lost a screw that that go into the standoffs for the pinmonks fans. Does anyone know the size of the screws?

#13351 2 years ago

The black one, but if you could give me both sizes that would be super. My 2 year old flipped over my screw plate when I was messing with the flippers. All this flipper talk got me going again.

Thanks as always!!!!

Quoted from PinMonk:

Which one? The stainless hex standoff or the black hex cap one?

#13366 2 years ago

It’s one thing to say the problem will be fixed, it’s another to follow through. I feel bad for Erik, he seems the only one to care. Sad to see him go if that’s true. He really put his sweat into all this.

How long does it honestly take to make new bushings, or just hire someone to shorten 1400 of them? I feel a lot of the promised fixes from Spooky are empty. I don’t mean to shit on anything, but I mean.. they got your money, it’s not like any of the complaints are going to change their bottom line. Yes, I know they sent out new legs to some people, but I am sure buying legs at 1000+ a time makes them dirt cheap (and they probably got money back because of the defect).

I honestly think it’s shitty they leave Erik out to be hung by the masses. Sure they could hire 3 more programmers to help, but again, that hurts their profit.

In the end we are just people complaining on the internet, but I’m kinda second guessing TNA 2.0. Too many posts about why couldn’t they just spend the nickel and put a better xxxx in. It’s way easy to pick off emails sent personally about complaints, then to address everyone.

Erik, if we even meet, I would love to buy you a beer or three.

I know how it goes, same for me at work. Yeah they could hire another programmer to help, but why??? I’ll get it done eventually, and the company is too cheap.

Time to nut up or shut up.

1 month later
#14296 2 years ago

You can put the quieter fan in the power supply and it won’t void your warranty, but oh nooooo, that button is the line.

Quoted from Vimtoman:

Just finished a prototype animated launch ball button with built in lcd.
You can keep up to date in the thread below.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/animated-launch-ball-button
FYI Christopher at Spooky was pretty clear to me that anyone attaching this mod or any mod would in fact void their Spooky warranty.

#14299 2 years ago

I don’t see how this is any different than the crystal mod over the scoop eject. There could even be something nice to connect it, like the scoop eject mod. This isn’t the first time someone is taxing a pinball power supply with an extra watt or two.

But I do understand your point. Voiding the warranty as a whole is questionable though. What if you do this, it blows your power supply, then the play field starts chipping like the guy a few posts above?

Quoted from rotordave:

I think the problem with a lot of mods is they try and draw the power from the pinball power boards/supplies.
This taxing the machines power supplies. This is a big no-no .. especially on 20+ year old pins where the power boards are usually marginal anyway.
The other issue is people put stupid alligator clips on their mods - which are just a recipe for disaster. I fixed a Scared Stiff recently where the owner had fitted a “scoop lite mod” ... the alligator clips moved (as they will, next to a scoop), shorted out against the coil leads, and major carnage ensued!
And when people break their new machines, it’s “hello Spooky/Stern/JJP! My machine doesn’t work any more! Dunno why? Send me parts to fix it!!”
Sterns warranty says “any modifications void your warranty” ... and I don’t blame them.
rd

#14300 2 years ago

Can anyone post a photo of their dialed in flippers? I'm trying to find the perfect angle and I'd like to compare where the flipper vs hole is for the bottom and how the top right is lined up.

Thanks!

#14302 2 years ago

Thanks!!!!!

Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Spooky actually says that the holes on the pf were placed in error. This is directly from Spooky.
Seems most people here use the ball guide to line things up. Get a straight edge rules, or even a piece of Jenga, and then just make sure your flipper rest on it lightly.

#14310 2 years ago

When you say lineup to the ball guide, do you mean the to the top or bottom?

Just want to make sure before I tighten them.

Thanks!!

7275C7DF-34D9-4321-99AA-6F29D53B1725 (resized).jpeg7275C7DF-34D9-4321-99AA-6F29D53B1725 (resized).jpeg
#14313 2 years ago

Yeah but a few posts above say the holes aren’t the way to do this one.

Quoted from jsa2145:

Another way is to put toothpick in the small hole and let the flipper (with rubber) rest on it before tightening. Worked great for me.

#14315 2 years ago

I’m going to stick with this flipper talk. How are your top right ones lined up? Post a photo of you have it dialed in.

#14429 2 years ago
Quoted from Idengager:

I also have #380, does that make 3 of them?

Let's all see pictures of the 380s!

Reporters (resized).jpgReporters (resized).jpg
#14440 2 years ago

It would be interesting for everyone to check their serial number with the plaque they got. #63!

#14487 2 years ago

Many moons ago there was talk of a microverse mod for the coin door dollar bill slot.

has anyone heard anything about that?

1 week later
#14725 2 years ago

Honest question.

Did Erik quit?

Wouldn’t blame him if he did.

3 weeks later
#15235 2 years ago

Does anyone think there will be another update? We’re on almost 2.5 months. I know they are onto new games, and I understand development needs to stop, but there is so much material. And one more time, thank you Erik for coding this all yourself!!

Also. Please tell me there is a Mr. Nimbus figure somewhere??

4 weeks later
#15870 2 years ago

In the latest update, are the cable clip sounds in attract mode not respecting the setting? Sometimes I have the game on, and the clips set at volume 1, but they are way louder than the game which is set at 4 (gotta be quiet when the baby sleeps!) Grateful for all the hard work on the latest update, so no worries.

3 weeks later
#16026 2 years ago

I got the brackets and the new lcd a month or so ago. Question for anyone that installed it…those brackets need to be super lose. Any pressure on the back of the screen causes a pressure mark on the front. I guess that’s why the original was in that shell. What have people been doing?

Quoted from harryhoudini:

Just got them listed on the site. Screens are being shipped so once they arrive we'll fill any orders that are placed in the meantime. This is the full kit with screen, controller and brackets: https://pinballmods.co/upgraded-ips-lcd-spooky-pinball

#16029 2 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Send me a PM and let's see what is up. Haven't heard that from anyone else but happy to look into it.

Will do thanks.

1 week later
#16105 2 years ago

Mine did the same. I just used some mounting tape and it’s holding up.

Quoted from DruTheFu:

After being installed since I received Jerry Edition 231 last November, my death crystal mod met its demise as a result from a fatal blow of an über-rare air ball. Snapped right off at the connection point.
Pinball Life looks to no longer carry.
xfassa , fingers crossed [quoted image]

1 month later
#16280 2 years ago

Turn down the flipper power to the low 20s. High power blows the fuse a lot. I think that’s one of the other reasons Scott said it was ok to put one higher in.

Quoted from Lounge:

It was noted somewhere that under certain circumstances the fuse blows on that board. I have not nailed down all the conditions but it has to do with the magnet and the flipper coils drawing too much current when used in combination.
There was a software fix implemented for this problem. Something about disabling the magnet when the flipper was pressed???

4 months later
#17285 2 years ago

For an alternate translite, would anyone know what side, top, and lift trim would be the correct size? I think stern is too big?

#17287 2 years ago
Quoted from zebpin61:

See post #17157 in this thread for translite/backglass dimensions.

Yes but there are lift channels for stern. Lift channels for Bally and Williams. Side channels too.

I don’t have anything to physically compare it to. What is most like the one on the current? I don’t want to remove those.

#17289 2 years ago
Quoted from zebpin61:

I didn't hesitate to remove the factory supplied edging from the original backglass but understand your concern. I believe replacement trim can be purchased from Pinballlife. Make sure it's 3/16" track, the sides come in 20" lengths, the top rail 24 3/4" length and lift channel 28 1/2" lengths. I'm going to buy them when I've got enough to order to justify the shipping. Hope that helps.

thank you sir!

5 months later
#18405 1 year ago

Just was about to post this. Glad it's not just me. Thanks for all the hard work!!!!

Quoted from epthegeek:

pinballM stumbled across an unfortunate bug in the public build -- If you try to start a challenge, and the game can't start for some reason (misisng balls, credits) it exits the challenge menu, but doesn't re-generate the attract mode 'pages', and will then crash if you touch a flipper button.
Some missed regression testing on my part. I made a change AFTER I had the "it didn't start right" bit in there and didn't re-test it. I will get that fixed, but not right away - in case anything else turns up. In the meantime, just be aware it's going to likely crash on you if the challenge fails to start correctly after you pick your adventure/dimension.

2 weeks later
#18538 1 year ago

How would you backup? Would be just creating an image with etcher?

Might not be a bad idea just in case

Quoted from fnord:

You'll either need to get a new drive from spooky w/ it loaded or find a backup image of the drive (from a R&M w/ the same mobo). The machine's giving an error mounting the /home partition which is probably going to mean the drive is corrupted and since it never fully boots the update won't run. There's some technical stuff you could attempt if you knew linux but even then it might not be recoverable

#18555 1 year ago
Quoted from dnapac:

My ship interior leds have stopped working. The head lights work. I checked the connectors and ran the wires and all is good. Can these be serviced?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07MFWP9NT

2 weeks later
#18743 1 year ago

I think he is referring to the older board. I’d like to know where to get that battery too.

Quoted from klr650:

Hi, can you photograph the battery you are referring to?
I swapped my CR2032 battery out yesterday (with game running) and had no issues. But mine was mounted in a regular battery holder with no tape.

2 months later
#19038 1 year ago

Would anyone be so kind to post a photo of their presion flipper install so I can see the height from the playfield?

#19041 1 year ago

Basically how high the flipper is off the playfield. I did state Rick and morty and they play great, just a little taller than a credit card gap between the playfield and flipper. Want to make sure before I put everything back and move the game back in line. Thanks so much!

Quoted from Ollulanus:

Not sure why you're asking, but I can verify that as long as you state it's for Rick and Morty you'll get shortened bushings just like the "fixed" ones for the thin playfield issue. I have halos on mine, and the bushings were appropriate.
[quoted image]

#19049 1 year ago

Here is mine. You can see it’s about 1 cm from the playfield to the bottom flipper. (Just got done waxing… still need to clean up a little)

Quoted from orlandu81:

I had the same question as I just finished my install. I used the metal bushings and while they are shorter than the original stock ones, they are only slightly shorter. The flippers were a little lower with the X spacers than with these, but they seem to shoot fine. If you look at your bushings apparently the shorter ones have a small “2” pressed into them.

556BAD5B-4FAF-40E1-A298-FB4E9B79DEDF (resized).jpeg556BAD5B-4FAF-40E1-A298-FB4E9B79DEDF (resized).jpegDC0F02F5-8D4F-48C3-9EEE-6B51468F8D85 (resized).jpegDC0F02F5-8D4F-48C3-9EEE-6B51468F8D85 (resized).jpeg

#19052 1 year ago

Thanks so much! I am really impressed with these.

Quoted from Var1AbL3:

Mine looks like this too, except I have the green flipper and purple rubber. The bottom of these flippers, unlike traditional ones, tapers from the post and leaves a nice gap between the flipper and PF. As for height over the bushing the Spooky bushings from Precision were EXACTLY the same size as the "updated" plastic ones that came out after R&M.

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