Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:I just changed the name of the thread to something more fun.
--Scott
Aw geez!
(Topic ID: 257850)
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Rick and Morty (Blood Sucker Edition)
Spooky Pinball, 2020-
Rick and Morty (Standard)
Spooky Pinball, 2020
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Quoted from WizardsCastle:I personally like to keep everything factory. I'm just hoping they polish this so that people can see a bit of the game. When a theme is this strong, it would really be a downer to not progress through it.
I have full faith in Scott and team
Well aren't the modes random? So let's say the game ends up with 20 different modes, even if you suck you'll still get to see at least most of them due to random selection, it just might take you 100 games to do so. 
Quoted from Palmer:I like black way better than the purple. I don't like the coin door standing out. Plus the black works well with the artwork.
So I'm thinking a purple coin door frame with a black door is the sweet spot on this game. Ties in the purple to the trim, but keeps the black door to anchor the black on the speaker covers and backglass vs a giant wall of purple on the front.
Maybe someone talented mockup a photoshop pic of the full game with the three options (Black frame and door, Purple frame and door, Purple frame w/ black door) ?
Here's the best I could find of the existing pics in this thread:
Screen Shot 2020-02-20 at 9.48.55 AM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2020-02-20 at 9.49.50 AM (resized).png
Quoted from epthegeek:More rules dumping ... Just basics, no fine scoring details or what not.
ADVENTURE: Roy - A Life Well Lived
- Roy is a 5 decision deep branching narrative, if you make it through all 5, Roy's life ends. If you drain early; well, that's a tragedy.
- Shots lit Green make 'positive' choices, shots lit Red make 'negative choices'
- Roy's age is shown on the digit display in front of the scoop.
- Positive choices advance the age a bit more than negative choices do, and there's a bonus for your age at the end.
- Consecutive similar decisions (positive/negative) are multiplied based on the string (2x, 3x, etc)
ADVENTURE: Total Rickall
- Rick, Morty (they're the drops/ship), Beth and Summer (targets) are lit to kill parasites.
- Each hit kills at least one parasite, some shots kill more
- Every time you make a shot, the parasite value goes up a bit, then slowly falls - so keep firing!
- Kill all the parasites to decontaminate the house and end the adventure.
ADVENTURE: Whirly Dirly
- Shoot the right orbit, inner loop, or ship u-turn (if open) to advance the ride toward the edge of the Immortality Field
- The right ramp lights for a kill shot hurry-up when you're near the edge
- If you make the kill, or the hurry up times out, you go back to looping
- You get 3 attempts at the kill shot before the ride ends, and you need to make 2 of them to take out both Risotto and his henchman.
ADVENTURE: Purge
- On the purge planet, the locals move left to right and are indicated by purple inserts.
- To start, you have to keep them from getting to Morty on the right orbit. You have to buy enough time for Rick to build the communicator.
- If a local makes it to where Morty is, the insert will flash red and you have a few seconds to save him.
- If Morty dies, the adventure is over.
- If you hold off the locals long enough, the Summer target will light to call her and have her send the armored suits.
- Once the suits are summoned you have to stay alive long enough to receive them. If you can do that; party time.
ADVENTURE: Pirates of the Pancreas
- Shoot the ramps to spell out Pirates of the Pancreas to get the ride turned on!
- Each shot to the ramps adds 3 seconds to the timer.
- If you take too long, Rick may have to come rescue you from inside Ruben.
ADVENTURE: Pickle Rick
- Phase 1: shoot the pop or sling to kill roaches to work towards the first evolution of Pickle Rick
- Phase 2: shoot the targets to kill rats with your upgraded pickle-self
- Phase 3: shoot the ramps and loops to take out the goons at the consulate (phase 3 is timed).
More adventures still to come!
Awesome! Thanks for keeping us informed.
Any idea of how many adventures we should ultimately expect?
A) 10
B) 10-15
C) 15-20
D) 42
Quoted from SpookyLuke:On this game it seems to shoot really nice at 6.5 degrees at the playfield. ACNC was better up around 7.1 degrees.
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:6.9 degrees.
FIGHT! 
6 months later
Quoted from FatPanda:I added 2 spot lights to light up the center of the playfield. One over the right sling and one by the family standup targets, by the blue crystal. I also added an LED strip in the back by the right ramp.
Can you post a couple of pictures? How well did it work?
Quoted from arzoo:Yes, it's the one with the planets and space background. The other two are photo-shopped ideas.
I have to say, the Spooky inside artblades are disappointing, mostly empty black and not nearly enough going on to justify the expense. I won't be purchasing them and will source something else 3rd party.
Quoted from epthegeek:Appreciate it, but the lighting is all Scott.
...who's "Scott"?? 
Quoted from epthegeek:You get what you get and you don't throw a fit.
/more than there are now
//less than the Hobbit, I'd wager.
So 16 then, right?!
3 weeks later
Quoted from kermit24:Has anyone found a place to buy mirror blades for R&M? Is it the standard WPC size?
Ditto on this question. I have a spare set of Stern mirror blades will these fit the R&M cabinet?
Not thrilled with the artblades being offered so was thinking maybe just mirror-blades, or sticking a bunch of these on the inside of the cab (https://www.redbubble.com/shop/planet+stickers)...
TiltGraphics offering looks better, at least some color in there and a bit more going on (https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/product-page/rick-morty-gameblades).
2 weeks later
Quoted from lookyloo:For those in the 230's .... don't give up hope. I got the call yesterday for delivery of #238. I decided to not wait and picked it up at the loading dock last night.
Side note... I wouldn't recommend using a late model Honda Pilot for transporting pins. I had to strip it down to the plastic wrap and still had to give it a less than gentle push to get it to fit for the last few inches
That sucks. My 2005 RAV4 can fit a fully boxed game (just). Have to remove the pallet first, of course.
Quoted from MikeS:I wouldn't use that style. They are known to cause decal damage.
Well they should be fine in this case so long as the metal guard under them prevents the plastic guard from hitting the decal at all.
Quoted from SpookyLuke:Remember to email us if you have an issue guys! We don't know unless you tell us!
Spooky needs to work on their Psychic Support Hotline(tm)! 
Quoted from kermit24:What about the Ben Heck / Spooky / CGC partnership game? That may come soonish.
Wrong thread.
1 week later
Quoted from Shapeshifter:Often wondered if running an exacto knife around leg protector would stop this?
That's my plan when my game arrives. My TNA front cab decal bubbled a bit around the shooter plate too because the decal wasn't cut around it. Seems like an area of easy improvement for Spooky to cut the decals around areas that would otherwise make contact with them.
1 week later
Quoted from PinMonk:Just an update on Spooky pin flipper coil temp testing with some temps and fade results. I only have a few more beta tests to finish and these will be ready to go. I had to make a custom bracket for Spooky pins since the Spike configuration wouldn't work, and that took extra testing to make sure it was effective. The cooling kit solves the Spooky pin fade problems in all cases.
(These are all at least 60 minutes of continuous play)
Moderate fade with temps in the low-mid 140s:
TNA, Alice Cooper Nightmare Castle
Severe fade with temps in the low-mid 150s (on the right flipper):
Rick and Morty
Still to be tested: Rob Zombie, America's Most Haunted
How long until we have the "silent fan" mod for the "Spooky flipper coil cooler" mod?? 
1 week later
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:*The loud topper; it's still loud and annoying and I'm not sure what I can do for that. I did turn the topper function off while the machine is idle because it was coming on for attraction mode and that was really very annoying.I'm almost tempted to turn the motor off and I would be happy with just the lights maybe. if anyone has a suggestion, LMK please.
Well the problem is the motor is noisy and totally exposed. I would imagine you could come up with some kind of a cover for it that would dampen the sound a lot, but not completely. Maybe craft a small box our of styrofoam or something that is open on a couple sides to slide over it?
I haven't got my game yet but sounds like a fun project to look at.
My sense from waiting for my game (also from the Halloween video they made), which I paid in full for Oct. 17th and hasn't left the factory yet, is that Spooky had a large number of mostly complete games sitting on the line. Hopefully the delay in shipping these is to get corrected legs for them.
2 weeks later
Quoted from PinMonk:That's the kind of cool thing about this coil temp testing project that turned into these kits. It turned up and is still turning up all sorts of interesting questions. I don't have the answers to most of them yet, but I hope that as I add more data, patterns will start to emerge that help solve them. I also want to start testing coil resistance cold and then after 60 minutes of play to see what the heat does to resistance as well.
Even if Spooky went back to the FL-22-9900 which are pretty consistently 143F after 60 minutes - that's enough to cause play issues, and it likely would be in the severe category after another hour of straight play on top of that as well. So going back to the FL-11629 may help somewhat, it's not an actual solution to long-play fade.
It's the ramps! FL-11629's are the big kahunas, aren't they? More power!! 
Quoted from BeeGeeMtl:Can anyone help me with the right bottom flipper? I got the game 2 weeks ago but almost NEVER hit the left ramp all the way up. I tried to adjust the "milliseconds" in the SETTINGS (whatever that means) but not much difference. It literally doesn't feel like the ball will ever make it up, any advice? (ps: I'm NOT a techie, so you'd have to walk me through any things to "fix" since I don't understand any of that stuff) Feels like the game isn't complete until I can set up that shot properly and the right-top-flipper garage shot (but I have a friend coming by to adjust that flipper a little).
Check your playfield angle on the playfield, you can use the free PinGuy app on your phone. Mine is 6.7d and shoots nicely.
If your PF is too steep that ramp will be difficult.
Check your right flipper, try pulling it straight up with your hand, is that a bit of slack/play in it? Or does it feel like it doesn't move at all? Try your other flippers to, do they all feel about the same?
There should be a bit of play in the flipper when you pull on it vertically, otherwise the flipper will have too much friction against the bushing which will rob it of power.
Quoted from harryhoudini:I'm just sucking it up and moving past this. I don't think the fixes are going to be coming for this kind of thing so I'm just going to fix it if I am going to keep the game. Next up, redesigning the shooter coil mounting situation so I don't keep screwing up the switch when I lower the playfield, don't feel the coil through the flipper button and don't get pissed off each time I look at it.
I just got my game and set it up yesterday and had the same issue. Could feel the plunger hitting the flipper switch. 
My solution was to lower the entire switch assembly one "hole". My right switch had 4 holes in the cabinet, and was mounted in the bottom two. But it was still too high and could hit the shooter lane plunger. So by lowering it so the top hole in the switch mounts in the very bottom/last hole, it is at the correct height to clear the plunger. I did have to very carefully drill a small pilot hole in the cabinet for the second lower screw hole and then screwed it in there. Seems to be working well there, though the overall level of resistance provided by the switches is less now because of the lever-action the longer plastic piece is given. Might need to adopt spring-loaded flipper buttons.
62836708736__D815DFDC-6416-430E-AE93-545E79ACE6BE (resized).JPG
I also replaced the plastic blade with a thicker variant that has less flex than the original.
I plan to do a larger write-up / review after I have a bit more time on the game (which is a blast!). There are certainly a couple of things I've found that are really questionable, this switch setup being one of them.
Quoted from Manic:The leg clearance and angle now look good. Is that how it came out of the box or did you double up the leg mounts or something?
.
Yes, my legs were fine out of the box. I do have a set of felt mounts on just because I had them but they wouldn't be necessary.
Quoted from brerspidur:The key to me nailing down my shooter lane was that the wire form was not securely seated into the playfully (see picture) it would sometimes move up and down. So no amount of adjustment at the other end would get it consistent . I pushed it down into the playfield and glued it from the bottom. It is way more consistent now, and rejects are less than 1%[quoted image]
In the spirit of constructive feedback for @spookycharlie...
The ball launch wire-form on this thing is the cheeziest POS I've ever seen on a pinball machine. The wires are bent under the playfield to secure them? Not screwed down?
The open end where the ball drops should have additional braces to give it a chance of not just flexing out of the way over time as the ball slams into it.
I have no idea who signed off on this design, but they surely didn't play more than a few games in a row to not see how inconsistent it is. $$$ on the table to the first person to offer a solid replacement.
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:The game is designed to make you panic flip and it will punish you for it. You need to trap up as much as you can and take a deep breath, then make your shot. Its the same way I did TNA. These are the types of games that I think are the most fun. If you want to play it crazy, definitely just try and make shots on the fly, it will be insane.
--Scott
What's awesome is on both of these games I prefer to play on the fly, for the most part. It's fantastic! I love going right at those centre targets on TNA! Makes you a much better player if you can do it, which sometimes I do, sometimes not so much.
R&M is a lightning speed flow monster when your making your shots. Feels like more attention/reward could be given for combos though, I haven't noticed anything in the way of callouts, sound effects, etc. Love the way IMDN rewards combos and the Death Blows.
My attention span is apparently too short to trap up every shot. 
YMMV. 
Quoted from epthegeek:Get Schwifty mutes the call outs on purpose, so you can hear the song without all the rambling. There are like three layers of checks to make sure they’re back on after the adventure or drain, but there must be some loophole I missed.
I've noticed a few spots where the apparent volume of the callouts will suddenly jump up to a somewhat ear blistering level (I like the game fairly loud to begin with). I'll make some notes and post them back here with more details later today.
Quoted from kermit24:So you need to do this every time the glass is removed?
That's what I was thinking originally, but it seems if you insert the zip plastic under the u-channel that holds the glass (between the u-channel and the cabinet), it should stay in place. This is a much more reasonable solution.
Quoted from mariobeans:I need those plastic covers asap. My airballs are INSANE!
Balls are hitting my roof!
I too have this problem. There is a reason Stern uses covers over the tops of their ramps I guess.
I increased my PF angle to 6.9 and it happens less often, but man when it does the ball just goes sailing.
Quoted from epthegeek:People who complain about airballs on the right ramp just aren't man enough to admit too much is too much and turn down the left flipper power. Damn it.
Mine's on factory settings, what is yours set to?
Real men use protection...
Quoted from epthegeek:I still only have the white wood, but I turned both left and right down to 28.
Mine was set at 29, so dropped them to 28, feel that same to me.
I see your ramps are prototypes and that you don't have the sprung steel flaps at the bottom between them and the plastic ramp. Perhaps that is why yours don't exhibit the ball launching behavior?
Quoted from Kevlar:Not sure if my machine is any different to anyone else's but the ramp flap rivets on the right ramp are too far from the ramp side walls, and they're quite pronounced. If I run a ball over them there's quite a lump so easy to understand how an airball can be generated. I don't get many but every now and then I get one. The left ramp on my Jurassic park is exactly the same, and I get the same random airballs. I'm probably going to take a dremel to the rivets on both machines and smooth them out a bit.
So most of the time my right ramp shoots like butter, but I had one wild ball launch incident this afternoon. I tend to play on the fly and so the ball velocity can be very high. I shot off the left flipper after the ball shot out of the portal and I think the ball was airborne all the way to the ramp (almost felt like a hockey wrist shot for the fellow Canadians), when it hit the ramp it launched straight into the air and landed behind the spaceship and got stuck there. No ball search or nudging could free it. Had to pull the glass after tilting trying to set it free.
Looking at my right ramp the sprung steel flap is convex-shaped instead of concave, which every other ramp flap on my other games and the left ramp on R&M also are (concave). So instead of following the contour of the PF and the ramp, it bubbles up away from the contour. I can even see the PF lights behind / under it when looking at it along the PF.
I wonder if the ball is hitting the flap with enough force to compact it and then it springs back and launches it into orbit? I'd say the flap might have been installed backwards to look like that... 
IMG_9269 (resized).JPGIMG_9272 (resized).JPGScreen Shot 2020-12-06 at 6.49.23 PM (resized).pngQuoted from metallik:I think the ball is hitting the flap rivets and getting enough upward launch off them to clear the ramp walls. I've had a few crazy airballs off the right ramp as well. Eric's ramps don't have the rivets.
Possible. Nothing a piece of acrylic over the entrance and then again over the turn at the top wouldn't fix.
Quoted from Yelobird:Don't recall you posting but what flipper rubber are you using? Stock or other?
Stock until yesterday pm, then some purple PerfectPlay silicon. Was seeing launches with both though off the right ramp.
Had another one last night, this time the ball launched off the middle of the ramp near the top, about 20% of the distance away from the corner at the top.
I think the ramp is flexing.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Anyone else think the ramp shots might be tough because they flex so much?
Ramp stiffeners or character mounts? How about both! [quoted image][quoted image]
Well count me as a customer.
Quoted from metallik:I think the ball is hitting the flap rivets and getting enough upward launch off them to clear the ramp walls. I've had a few crazy airballs off the right ramp as well. Eric's ramps don't have the rivets.
I just had one this morning hop off the ramp and over to the lane to the right of it right at the bottom of the ramp, basically where the opto switch is at the bottom, wasn't even moving that fast. Very odd.
Quoted from razorsedge:There must be something going on with your flaps ...
**Looking back at your pics and description, your flaps not curving up to the ramp, straight in that up direction?.... they will be acting like a trampoline.
My comment would be, from how mine were as well, if I had not have fitted the playfield protector then I would definitely have had to trim down the bottom faces of both of the ramps so that they could sit lower and then the flaps could have a bit of curve so that they could provide a smooth transition.
[quoted image]
Trimming the bottom face of the ramp would have the same effect as adding a playfield protector, flex the flap more.
Flap being flexed Too Much, so it buckles and sticks up, will cause other problems and still mean airballs... probably.
The bottom setup in the diagram is also Much more friendly for your clear playfield coating.
Yes, my right ramp flap resembles your diagram, it is not "sprung" properly to hug the ramp+playfield, acting more like a ramp itself (or trampoline). I'll have to remove the ramp to see what if I can do anything about it.
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:After testing a bunch of different scenarios, we came up with a cover for the right ramp on Rick and Morty. Here it is if you need one!
https://www.pinballlife.com/rick-and-morty-right-ramp-airball-protector.html
Thanks,
--Scott
Awesome Scott!
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:Just to clarify, this is not a Spooky product, this is just a mod. This will not be necessary for most people. I also made something similar for TNA to avoid ball traps. It is not necessary either, but available if needed.
--Scott
...I'll forward the bill on to Charlie!
Quoted from epthegeek:Everybody I've seen talking about it sets the volume on like 1-3 because it's "too loud" and the volume adjustment can go up to 20 -- so I took the values used for "how loud is this asset supposed to play" and cut them in half, so you have more dynamic control of up/down from the coin door.
Thanks for this! I've been taking notes of the clips that seemed louder than the the rest, I guess I'll review once again with the new code and see how it goes.
Just for reference what I noted on the Oct 12, 2020 code was:
- Intro to whirly dirly was a lot louder than the rest, easy to test when you start both the mode and multiball at the scoop at the same time.
- At the end of Get Swifty mode, there is one short blurb "Hmmm" that is *really* loud.
- Screw turn match sequence seems louder.
Anyway, I'll play the new code and report back!
Quoted from ThePinballCo-op:omg I love Scary Terry. Anybody play it yet? Do they use Terry's voice? Does he say "bitch" a lot?
I need to know! This could be the most fun adventure yet.
epthegeek Is there a plan for a wizard mode down the road? I love the game but I want a wizard mode so there's the feeling of a huge accomplishment.
Just played it. NO idea what to do yet but he does say "bitch" a lot!
Quoted from epthegeek:Some of the "do you have problems with heat or not" has to do with playing habits. Because of a certain specific way R&M has to work, if you rapidly flip the same flipper a lot, you will have more trouble than someone who does not do that. Every time you press the flipper button, you get the full power pulse as defined by the settings, even if that full pulse isn't really needed to get the flipper to the end of the stroke, and those full power pulses are where the heat really comes from. The duty-cycle that holds the flipper is not much of a problem. So if you're the type that flips a lot, either for very specific ball control reasons, or just nervous twitchy reasons, or even just habits, you'll get more heat faster.
This approach to controlling the flippers is a sore point for me. I assume it is how the PROC boards operate?
It means that there is no chance to quickly flutter the flipper button to get a lite tap on the flipper, it always fires full strength/duration. I am able to do this all the time on my new Stern's (and classic Sterns, obviously). It's like playing with digital vs analog buttons and I feel that it's actually pretty detrimental to refined/advanced play.
I'd love to hear more about this topic though.
Quoted from epthegeek:Stern flippers fire full power for ‘up to’ 40ms, but get cut off by the EOS. That’s the big difference.
Edit: I should clarify that if you press the button and hold it on R&M you get the full power you set the setting for even if it hits the end — if you let the button go, it disables as quickly as it can.
So when you press the flipper button on R&M, does the flip last for the full 30ms or can it be aborted if you unpress the button quickly?
Was playing around last night trying some flipper skills and it does seem possible to flutter the flippers on R&M, but timing and feel is much different than Stern (which is fine). So more practice is needed on my part! I do find that drop catching the scoop is relatively easy on this game for some reason.
Quoted from arzoo:The left ramp left screw is shorter by necessity; a longer screw would protrude into the subway and prevent the ball from moving past. I learned this the hard way when I replaced the screw with a larger one to match the right and then I'm like why is the pin searching for a ball, wtf? As for the pre-drilled holes at the bottom of the ramp, neither of my ramps use those holes and they seem too large anyway.
On my game the Meeseeks target came loose almost immediately and I noticed it was being held by one normal screw (stripped) and one tiny screw like you'd use to mount a plastic or something. I replaced it with another normal screw and used glue and toothpicks to fix the stripped one. Stuff you have to do on your NiB pinball...
Quoted from mslow:I had something similar. It was my right Outlane switch getting stuck in the down position. You can bend the wire arch that sticks up through the play field and is connected to the switch. Hope this helps.
My game had this exact problem, right inlane switch kept getting stuck under the PF. I simply loosed the screw under the pf holding it and re-tightened it while holding it in the middle of the pf slot.
Quoted from snaroff:Looks like a damaged crimp point on the black wire might be the culprit. Odd that it worked for a couple hundred games or so and then decided to misbehave.
[quoted image]
I also have a faulty crimp job, the innermost opto on the left side of the Danesi lock 2.0 wasn't working. Could only get it to work by angling the wire 90d from the crimp. I expect it to fail again shortly. Will be contacting Spooky for a replacement plug.
Quoted from bitternerd:Love this game.
THINK I found a rare glitch. (Last night with new code bitch)
Two balls locked, on two tilt warnings. Slap save caused tilt (Rick was not impressed) Ball momentum struck left dropdown target (after tilt). This released locked ball and both that ball and the ball i was playing drained. Game could not figure out where locked ball went and went into endless loop of launching a ball from shooter, letting it drain and repeating.
Anyhow, maybe that is rare but helpful info?
Again- so happy with game. Not really playing anything else!
Well done! Let's see you that again...
Quoted from rai:I was just thinking about Stern BKSOR how the magna save is on the lockdown bar, this is so much better.
It sure is. I grew up on the original BK, owned it for decades, and so am wired for the traditional magna-save button location. I freakin' love the implementation on R&M! So fun and analog, far from a sure thing when you use it, takes the midas touch.
I also have a BKSoR and using the Magna-save via the top button is my biggest disappointment with that game. Even when you are successful, it's not as fun or satisfying.
Between the DP, BKSoR, and R&M you just have to get flexible in remembering what button to press, where.
Quoted from Whysnow:swap the bushings is my honest opinion.
Ball should hit square on the sweet spot. Too high or too low is less than optimal.
I also find that too high causes more torsional friction capability.
Well you should be able to loosen the flipper bats under the PF and adjust the height by lowering or raising them. They should fully down and then with a credit card's width of gap left between the bottom of the flipper and the top of the bushing.
I would start there, they might just be set a little high currently.
Quoted from snaroff:You are misunderstanding the issue. Do you have experience rebuilding (or working on) flippers. If not, then it's not surprising you are misunderstanding.
The gap can certainly be adjusted, however the flipper rests on the bushing, which is the absolute low point for the flipper.
No need to be testy. *If* the flippers are already resting on the top of the bushing, then yes, obviously they can't be lowered further. That is an assumption at this point.
On my game, I adjusted the flippers as soon as I saw the odd flipper angle they had set them at at the factory and made sure they had plenty of "slack" vertically when I tightened them down. I have no problem with the left ramp shot.
In any case, this "flipper-bushing gate" issue isn't the reason the original poster can't make his left ramp consistently. I have no issues on my game and i have the same bushings as everybody else.
Quoted from Morinack:Santa is watching!
...and Jesus, The Government, Google, definitely Facebook, and possibly some aliens too.
Quoted from o-din:I have always loved the "pinside consensus" crew. lol.
I love those guys!
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:Hi everyone!
So I wanted to chime in on this as it has been asked to me many times now. The little adjustment holes are there to help get both flipper resting positions in the proper place. To adjust them, with flipper rubber on the bats, put a tooth pick in both of the adjustment holes and let the flippers rest against them and tighten them up that way. This is the way that I had it configured in all my Whitewood testing and the way I prefer it to be set. By doing this, you may not be able to backhand the right ramp from the right flipper, but I never meant for that to be possible originally. This may help out with the ease of being able to hit the left ramp more smoothly. Thanks everyone!
--Scott
Thanks Scott. So an obvious question then is why don't they use this procedure at the factory? My game out of box had the flippers 1/2 inch or more higher than normal. Never seen a game setup that way before and I quickly "fixed" them. BTW my flippers are setup as you described, maybe a hair higher, and I can backhand the *RIGHT* ramp with the right flipper no problem. 
Quoted from SgtStryker:I have a question about the Rick and Morty Pin. I haven't watched the show, my brother has told me it's fantastic and I have to watch it. I'm sure I'll get around to it some day but unfortunately I don't have the time right now. My brother did tell me that the show is very adult and I've read that the Rick and Morty pin has a family friendly mode. I don't know if what I've read about the Rick and Morty Pin having a family friendly mode is true and if it does have a family friendly mode, Is it truly a family friendly? I have young kids and my wife would lose her mind if I bought a pin that was too adult. I'm considering buying the Rick and Morty Pin, even though I haven't seen the show. The lay out looks really cool and the lighting looks great too and the kids, I'm sure would think the space theme is cool. Thanks in advance for the help.
Honestly, the material here is *very* adult. Even with the swear words disabled the game is filled with abusive call-outs from the show that I would not subject pre-teens to. The cartoons are extremely violent with animated gore as well. The actual game play is difficult and not beginner friendly either.
Basically, this is not a great choice for someone not familiar with the theme, esp. with small kids, IMHO. If your wife is at all sensitive to these types of concerns I would avoid at all costs.
Quoted from gac:The naked basketball rim was driving me crazy. Couple pics of the fix.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Looks great! I just ordered a set of those random selection figures off ebay, thanks for the tip.
1 week later
Quoted from DanQverymuch:Anybody else had the thrill of CLUNK lost ball in the cabinet yet?
The ball fits through there rather easily. Didn't take long to figure out what happened!
[quoted image]
Yes, happened to me once so far. For a minute I thought the ball trough must have fallen off. lol.
Quoted from PinMonk:I think is is *good enough* for most people. Maybe they could have a premium tier with an ips/pva 1920x1080 screen (are their graphics already in the code at 720p, or is it 1080p and scaled down?) and less janky 3D printed playfield items (.20 nozzles or something so they don't look so rough). They really do give alot of pin for the money, and I think for the people that aren't crazy like me or a few others, it's enough.
Problem is it is noticeably poor quality vs the Sterns parked right beside it. So A) constant reminder to the owner and B) embarrassing to answer guests on why this one looks different, etc.
Spooky really should figure out a way to buy better screens in bulk to make that happen. These cruddy screens have been an issue since at least TNA.
Quoted from guitarded:Think there might be a solution for that in the TNA Thread, iirc.
I modded my TNA to tilt the monitor back into the head to improve the viewing angle. It was extremely successful in terms of improving the contrast and saturation of the monitor from the players position.
Spooky took a step in the right direction by slanting the monitor on R&M, but it's no where near enough to fix the monitor PQ issues.
Might still be possible to tilt it further not sure if there is enough room behind it though.
Here is my post on that mod to TNA, note the overly optimistic outlook for R&M at the bottom. lol.
Quoted from PinMonk:But all that's crazy town workarounds for the root problem which is a poor TN panel that has bad off-angle viewing. An IPS or PVA panel that looks great from even extreme off-angle viewing solves that issue for like $20 at manufacture or about triple that if you do it later aftermarket.
Totally agree.
4 weeks later
Quoted from monkfe:agree, we need to go back to the knocker debate....that lasted weeks ...
...now that you mentioned it. I friggin' LOVE my knocker! Everytime I score an extraball it's "CRAACK!". So worth it.
It would be nice if one of the modes could use the knocker to some effect as well.
KNOCKER = 1 / No knocker = 0.
1 month later
BUG REPORT (using latest rm-gamecode-20210311.pkg)
I was in the "horn sounds" dimension (didn't look at the screen to read the name, sorry) when I started "Show me what you got!" mode. That mode kills the game sound effects, intentionally, I assume, so my horn sounds went away. But once the mode ended the game sounds stayed off, and there was only call-outs and music, no sounds from hitting targets, etc.
EDIT> This issue remained into the next game, had to power-cycle the game to fix it.
Quoted from Soulstoner:My scoop is shooting straight down the middle roughly 1/4 times. How can I counter this if it's not consistent?
Try changing the coil power setting for it in the Settings. I think the default is 16, try either increasing it slightly (20) or lowering it a bit and see which way you prefer (14).
Quoted from Soulstoner:Unfortunately, adjusting in either direction doesn't fix it. Thanks for the suggestion!
Well, there is also a setting to enable a short ballsaver after the scoop fires, that might help until you can figure it out.
Quoted from BMore-Pinball:I was able to cancel all animations by tapping flippers except for the bonus add up screen after each ball
For some reason I still can't skip the Adventure Card sequence, which I'd *really really* like to be able to.
3 weeks later
Quoted from snaroff:Hey Eric,
In an ideal world, flippers shouldn't need so many "knobs" (power, hold, pulse, recovery). Their existence complicates life and reflects the challenges you've been dealing with as more games are getting played. On my other games, dialing in flippers at most involves adjusting the bushing gap and EOS. That's it. I've been in this hobby for 20 years and don't recall ever having to play with software settings to get the flippers to function properly (my collection has been dominated by B/W and Stern games from 1990 to today).
Since this is my first Spooky game, I don't really mind if dialing in the flippers is a bit more involved, but the "trial and error" is the frustrating part. If the EOS switches are so critical to R&M lower flipper behavior, why doesn't the upper flipper have an EOS switch? Based on your comments in other posts, I imagine that isn't your domain and wasn't your decision. Nevertheless, it effects the code. My upper flipper gets knocked down VERY easily...I posted a slo-mo video 9 days ago that you responded to. The upper flipper shots are freaking amazing on this game and it's a bummer when the flipper is so prone to knockdown.
Thanks for continuing to engage with us in this thread. You know how much we all love the game and work you've done...
Well said.
The thing with flippers is, it should be a "solved problem" that for some reason everybody but Stern still seems to be struggling with to one degree or another. I have no insight into why Stern's flippers work so well, but they do. And the reality is they are the market leader and set the expectation for all others to meet, at least in terms of flipper feel.
This goes beyond Spooky, I've never played a JJP game where I thought the flippers felt strong, and many people aren't thrilled with the Chicago Gaming remake flipper feel either. Seems like these games flipper systems got too clever for their own good. Saving a dollar by removing EOS switches? Clever, or foolish?
I did some testing of my own and even on Aggressive / High settings the resistance offered by the R&M flippers feels like a fraction of my Stern games. I just wish people would match Stern's flipper strength and feel. That is all.
Quoted from WizardsCastle:Quick update.
After changing springs (left using Stern, and both rights using WMS) and getting some games in, I'm still seeing the issue where a ball high up on the playfield comes down, hit the flipper, and it slightly dips down, and then flicks up causing the ball to essentially shoot on its own. I would say that the power fade issue has reduced, but not the "dip & flip" and the upper flipper still does a bit of fluttering (better than before though).
Also, one thing I'm trying to figure out is the right flipper shot to the left ramp. When I first got the game few weeks ago, I could hit the shits regularly, but the issue was power, so it couldn't make it up the ramp. Now that I have the power (He-Man!!!!!) I can't find the ramp shot. It's very inconsistent, and doesn't feel like skill, but luck when you hit it.
I tried filming a quick gameplay video to see what was going wrong. One observation I've made is that on the left side, the ball transitions from the ball guide to the flipper smoothly. It's like a perfectly straight line. On the right side however, it has a tiny little drop from the guide to the flipper bat that actually create a small bounce, making an accurate shot almost impossible.
I have lined both flippers up with the ball guide, so not sure what else to do. I might try to raise it a little more, but already as the flippers are set, I can't hit the lowest target on the left side.
I'm wondering how you guys who set flippers to the toothpick hole are getting accurate shots? Is there not a drop from the guide to the flipper since the flipper is aligned lower?
Thanks for all the help
I have zero issues making my ramp shots. Here is a reference pic of where my flippers are set relative to the guide holes. Basically "thick-toothpick in the holes, with flipper rubbers resting on toothpick".
IMG_0022 (resized).JPGQuoted from rotordave:If I remember correctly, they changed to the beefier springs after the WMS style ones on the early TNAs would shit themselves prematurely.
Of course, it stands to reason that the less resistance the spring has, the less force required to move the flipper up.
And, if the spring was too strong, while the flipper is held up under power, it could pull back the flipper pawl a tiny bit at the end of stroke and engage the EOS switch.
Certainly trying a little spring would be worth a shot.
BTW - the majority of R&Ms that I know of have no flipper issues. Mine never has.
rd
Here's a reference pic of some flipper return springs:
64105885141__2D322119-92AF-4FCC-AF29-D24166B7F749 (resized).JPG
From the top to bottom:
R&M
Classic Bally
Williams? (not sure, sorry)
Modern Stern
You can see how much larger and beefier the stock R&M springs are, they also have noticeably more resistance when stretched than the modern Stern ones. Though the R&M ones are a bit longer so wouldn't need to stretch as far I guess.
I installed the Stern ones on my game yesterday and worked my way up the Flipper Hold Strength settings, starting with DEFAULT, Low, and going up. My EOS switches are set to close at the very end of the flipper stroke.
For me, the new springs didn't seem to change much with regard to the flipper knock-down issue. I still prefer the AGGRESSIVE / High setting and see the least issues with that. I didn't test ORIGINAL as my overall feeling is that the general flipper feel is more responsive with the newer approach in DEFAULT and AGGRESSIVE.
It did feel like the flippers were overall snappier with the smaller springs installed though - I'm keeping them on.
Quoted from epthegeek:I'm not sure what this means exactly, but the difference between 'default' and 'original' is just the timings for holding the flipper up after the flip - nothing else is different. The 'original' option uses 1ms power on/Xms power off cycles, and the other 2 use 2ms power on/2 x (Xms power off). Should be no difference in 'responsiveness' The flip action and recovery actions are the same no matter what.
Ah, okay. Somewhere along the way I must have gotten confused and thought "Original" was the old approach to the flipper code, before you adopted the more hardware-based approach. I've been ignoring it for that reason, because when I tested the last code release the new code was so much more responsive to me.
I'll give it a try too.
Quoted from northerndude:Im struggling now with my flippers. My flippers have been great, I've had my pin for a long time, now they are getting funky with the new code. I went to the original setting and I hit multiball and they just started flipping themselves. dang. this kinda blows as my flippers have always been great until now
Make sure you've power cycled, as suggested above, then check those switches; flipper eos, flipper button switches.
I've been playing with Original + High settings, Stern return springs and the flipper power when shooting is fantastic.
Hold power is not as good as Aggressive + High, but nearly. I realized I had my scoop eject cranked higher for faster/meaner eject speeds, so I returned that to default (16?) and the auto-fires off the right flipper on scoops ejects are rare now. Pop bumper still folds the left flipper like wet cardboard but probably unavoidable.
Quoted from epthegeek:Interesting. Original/High is actually a higher percentage duty cycle, just distributed differently. But with any of them, timing is a factor. If you get ball impact during an 'off' part of the cycle it reacts differently.
There are a lot of variables, for sure. And the differences can be subtle.
I do wonder why this more complex duty-cycled approach is considered worthwhile when a basic Williams 2-circuit coil setup seemed to be fine + simple? Is it that those types of coils don't work well with the solid-state power supplies of modern games?
Quoted from bitternerd:I have this as well. The debounce seemed to stop working correctly at some point around 4 months ago. ? software. I plan to try the earplug trick to settle the bob faster but it is (mildly) annoying.
EDIT-- mostly annoying because the death save animation is great. But do an actual death save and you will get a delayed "ghost" tilt 5 seconds later. But even a good non-death save nudge often gets delayed tilt as you describe.
My tilt is working great. One warning per useful nudge, just like it should be.
Quoted from Fytr:My tilt is working great. One warning per useful nudge, just like it should be.
Actually, I find the tilt call-outs a bit too much, really. I can see unloading on the player if you actually tilt (and boy does it ever), but the doubled-up lines on every warning is a bit much, IMHO. Nudging to a tilt warning is just good playing, not always game abuse. You can even earn an extra tilt warning via Mystery award.
On the other hand, they are pretty entertaining.
Quoted from Kevlar:Which exact flipper return springs are you guys fitting? I just fitted some sega/stern 265-5035-00 and find them just as strong, if not stronger than the springs fitted to my R&M.
These ones: https://www.pinballlife.com/segastern-flipper-extension-spring.html
The flipper power and punch is much improved with these vs the stock ones, never going back.
Not sure if they really affect the flipper hold power enough to notice, still playing around with that.
Quoted from Kevlar:Those are what I bought and fitted ( not form PBL, I'm in the UK ). Even before fitting one just stretching it alongside the R&M spring I could tell they were just as strong as the longer, fatter R&M spring. My search for a weaker spring continues...
Interesting. I tried the same "stretch" experiment and found the R&M springs to be much more difficult to stretch compared to the smaller Stern ones.
Quoted from WizardsCastle:6.5 confirmed by 3 digital levels (I'm OCD).
Flippers are set slightly above the toothpick hole on both sides, as I was unable to backhand the left ramp when I had it resting on the toothpick.
What I find aside from the power fade is that I can't get any accuracy on shots from the right flipper.
Taking a slow motion video, when I release the ball from a cradle, it bounces as it makes its way down to the tip of the flipper. The left side does not behave like this, and I can make shots very accurately.
Because the ball is bouncing on the right flipper, it's really difficult to aim at the ramp. Combine that with the fade, and it makes playing both frustrating and futile.
For what it's worth, my flippers are feather touch light with the Stern return springs on, there is almost zero resistance to pushing the plunger in. Nothing binding at all. Also my flipper has a lot of vertical slack, if I pull the flipper straight up from the playfield I have 1/8" inch of slack easily.
Here's my alignment with the toothpicks inserted. Rubbers just rest on the toothpicks. I can backhand the right ramp cleanly, and make the left ramp consistently, with power. The Rick target is a definite challenge, right at the end of the flipper.
IMG_0047 (resized).JPGQuoted from manadams:Doesn't make sense why Adult Swim would care if there's a wizard mode in a game unless there was content that Spooky wanted to use for it that got squashed. Pretty strange they would want control on how deep a game is code wise.
Yes, it was the content idea Spooky brought them that they nixed, not the idea of a wizard mode. Charlie said it was something in the vein of Pickle Rick, but that Adult Swim said it was too much of a stretch for the theme, or something along those lines.
I'm hoping for a Save Summer mode as well.
This game is already so amazing, it's my favorite modes based game. Really vibin' on it now that I've got it dialed in more to my liking. 
Quoted from Zablon:To those asking about the left ramp. It should not be touching the left wall. I have almost 1/4" gap and as you see it is almost centered on the meseeks insert. Mine came this way and have never had problems making the ramp.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Now...my flippers are another story. Still can't get them to not drop at the worst possible moment. It is so strange since March code they were working perfectly.
My ramp looks exactly like yours, and shoots fine also.
My flippers have been working well lately, using Stern return springs (lighter), Original flipper hold mode, and High flipper hold settings. I also have my EOS switches set to close at the absolute last moment of flipper travel - they are a hair-width apart when open.
So far I haven't noticed any issues with fade either, but haven't played for more than maybe an hour continuously.
Quoted from Zablon:Okay i did some testing....on agressive...high power...default timings
Right flipper is solid no drops. Left flipper does this. Note that while it took 5-6 taps in the video...sometimes it happens first or 2nd try
https://vimeo.com/546608391
Thoughts? Only thing i notice is the coils sound different from left to right. EoS seems pretty much the same on both.
Almost seems like the EOS on the left flipper isn't engaged. Have you verified it fires when the flipper flips at the end of the flipper stroke (and remains on while the flipper is held)?
Quoted from PinMonk:Depending on where they're doing it, it can take a while. The mold is the time-killer, they have to test the first samples, and if there are revisions, that's more time. If they're doing it in China, there are lots of factory and shipping backlogs that can cause not-insignificant delays, too.
I understand the frustration, but I really do think Spooky is working in good faith to resolve the issues as they arise. It's just a fact that some of them are not easy or fast solutions. It's the risk you take when you go with a relatively new pinball company as they build their technology base. None of this should be a surprise to anyone who has read Spooky pin threads.
They are probably tooling up to use these in their new game, and once they are available will be able to provide them to R&M customers also, assuming they are keeping their "skinny" playfield thickness as well.
Quoted from dnapac:Well, now that Erik has been attacked for flipper-gate...you all can kiss any updates goodbye. I love the game. Yah, the flippers have some weirdness, but for me...minor. It’s pinball. There’s always something that isn’t quite right. Heck, my NGG does something similar. I want to apologize to Erik and Spooky. They actively engage to learn and make it better...but individuals can only take so much before they say f-it and check out of the situation. I hope I am wrong and we keep getting updates, but wouldn’t be surprised if this is it. Looking for a fix...which many have done...is different than throwing shit...which others have done. To those that are having big problems, reach out directly to Spooky. They have incredible customer service and will bend over backwards to help you. If you figure out something that helps you..post it. Help others. Don’t throw shit.
Nobody attacked Eric, they were simply trying to communicate what they are experiencing. Eric took it personally and his frustrations boiled over into unprofessional responses IMHO. We are all only human, it's clear he's burned out and needs a break. We all love what Eric's done for this game, let there be no doubt about that.
However, I've worked in software for over 20 years, and where there's smoke - there's usually fire. You disregard multiple reports of issues at your peril. It might not have anything to do with the code for the flippers itself, I don't know, but there is something going on here and I agree that Spooky as an organization should get in front of it.
Quoted from Ramrod215:I noticed a code update on https://soldmy.org/pin/rm/
Build 2021.05.11: - This build is available to test if you would like but is not considered and official public update just yet
- Fixed: The 50 point bug that would mess up the megaseed digits
- Fixed: Crash in changing dimensions in tournament mode
- Fixed: Crash if you entered the service menu when an adventure intro was happening.
- Fixed: bad high score image replaced with blank circle instead of magenta grid of trash.
- Fixed: Roving shots in Scary Terry could stop roving after the timer ended.
- Fixed: Grenade light in purge wouldn't re-light if you had none and got another.
- Fixed: The speaker light colors and PF flash colors in bonus weren't matching properly.
- Fixed: Flipper settings are all properly re-read after adjustment, without a restart.
- Changed: Put Jerry's Simulation dimension back in without the 'my man' call out.
- Changed: Options for what hold pattern to use have been removed. After much testing and discussions
with an electrical engineer friend, the ORIGINAL pattern is now the only one.
- Changed: An "EXTREME" option added for even stronger hold at the expense of more heat.
- Changed: Recovery rules were moved back to the software side (instead of hardware rules) to reduce
complexity and simplify race conditions with rapid flipping.
Quoted from RobF:Is the flippergate page new (link at the bottom of the code page)? https://soldmy.org/pin/rm/rm_flippers.html
There are a lot of good technical details documented.
This is very nice to see. Takes a lot of the mystery out of it. Thanks epthegeek !
Quoted from RobF:Sure, but that doesn't mean you are getting the right info. I think it will be important to see the waveforms. We are sliding back into alt.flipper.nerd. We really need a dedicated technical thread for this topic, or feel free to continue via PM.
Someone start a thread then, I want to read it.
Quoted from PinMonk:Yeah, they'll definitely still cool the coils well enough to avoid fade. The extra CFM in the new version is basically to drop average cooled temps even lower, and by standardizing on the higher CFM fans, all the kits will have the same amount of airflow instead of it being different in different kits.
Are they as noisy as the stock Spooky / Stern power-supply fan? *irony*
Black bats means they are using parts for their upcoming game - Zombieland!
(I'm just making this up).
Quoted from orlandu81:So am I the only sucker waiting for the "official" update then? I figured it would be a day or two before it was available on Spooky's site but I'm losing patience. If not official by EOD, I'm thinking about biting the bullet and installing the unofficial 5/11 code. I just figured that the issues with the 5/11 test code would maybe be fixed before it goes official...but this is my first Spooky pin and I got it just a month or so ago so I don't know anything.
Wait or not to wait?
You do realize that it takes "soak time" to A) discover and report issues, and B) Fix time to debug the issues and develop fixes.
Could be weeks before an official release is ready, and that is fine.
Quoted from Soulstoner:Yup you were right. Wire snapped off the solder point. I guess I'll need to go buy a soldering iron. It was inevitable, really.
Thank you!
All part of the pinball lifestyle.
Quoted from WizardsCastle:Checked my audit today, and average ball time is 17 seconds hahahahaha!
Curious to know what you guys are getting.
Ouch! I'll have to check mine.
I'd recommend you increase the ball saver times in the settings (start by doubling them).
Stern's default ball save timers are much more generous than the ones on R&M. Also, the ones on R&M get "used" once your ball has been saved once, which is not how any other company's ball savers work (that I am aware of). I know Scott D. added this to TNA where it made sense to prevent players from exploiting the ball save to launch balls into the reactor over and over, but I do NOT think it's a good general approach to how ball savers should work on other games.
To put this game on location without the ability to guarantee players get min 20s -30s per ball seems unfriendly.
Quoted from JohnDeere:Is anyone selling bushing that's are already shaved down correctly? I know I could probably try and measure and do by hand but scared it would not be flush</blockquo
Funny, my factory wireform works practically every time... certainly well enough to not waste a Benjamin replacing it.
But if you're one who would rather spend $35 upgrading a switch instead of bending the blade on it... go for it!
Meanwhile, it's getting to where I'll be able to buy another game with the money I've saved not replacing things on R&M!
My factory wireform was a total PoS, as i clearly indicated in a ranty post awhile back. There was nothing I could do to keep it working for long. So HAPPY to have the improved wireform from PBL! Best $50 I ever spent.
I have a friend with a R&M that claims his factory works perfectly, so I dunno.
Quoted from riggy469:As someone who is getting his R&M delivered Wednesday, can someone link to or explain the wireform issue?
The stock wireform is basically an under-built, poorly designed piece-of-junk. It's supposed to stop the ball after it leaves the shooter lane and drop it in front of the upper right flipper. My experience is that the ball with either shoot past the end of it and around the right loop, or bounce off the end of it and back down into the shooter lane more often than not. It requires finicky manual adjustment, and never stays working 100% for very long.
The new wireform solves this 100% by resembling an actual part engineered for a pinball machine.
However, others have not reported any issues, so you might as well wait and see how your game plays in this regard.
Quoted from Aniraf:So, I'm about 750 balls into the game and I've noticed just a little bit of a rough spot on the portal hole. I'm not a huge fan of the metal protector so I decided to design my own that more or less follows the same pattern I've had on my Cirqus Voltaire for many years. Via some 3D print magic and what I'm now realizing is a great filament I came up with this (pictures). It is a simple snap fit that is designed to lock into the hole with a very tiny "foot" which grips the bottom of the playfield. It takes about 20 minutes to install because you have to remove the house. In testing so far (5 games) it seems to work pretty great. I did get one "lip out" from a fast moving ball in the right orbit but I've also seen that without a protector so I have no way of knowing.
I'm curious to know the thoughts of the community. If this is something people are excited about I could print and ship them as well. I don't think they would be very expensive. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Nice! I’d be interested in sending you a fee bucks for one if you’re willing to pop it in the USPS to Canada for me.
Quoted from Lounge:VERY interested in doing this. This is the last ‘tweak’ my machine needs.
What replacement switch did you go with?
Yes, when I got my game the "soft" feel of the right flipper switch drove me nuts. I tried a bunch of things (disc, homemade stiffer plastic extender) but in the end it was the "zip tie" fix that really made the switch feel the same as other flipper buttons.
See https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/153#post-5962051
Quoted from Lounge:I tried the zip-tie but it seems more like a bandaid. Then I soldered an additional leaf to lengthen the long throw to the flipper button but it’s still weird and not staging correctly.
Well it's a hack I suppose, but it gives me the flipper button feel I'm looking for. I have no issues with my flipper staging either, but I've have my switch stack apart like 3 times trying different things over time, so not really too sure how close to "stock" it is anymore.
Spooky should really hire me to play one of their early production games for awhile and give them notes on the "details" that matter that they seem to miss for some reason.
1 week later
Quoted from nettek:Mini pipe cutter on mine. Gives a nice square flat surface and is very quick.
[quoted image]
This is what I was considering doing, but I thought you could probably even do it with the bushing mounted on the PF still, that would be far less work.
Quoted from Baboon:Nope , don t try that !!
too many chance to ruin the playfield
Yeah, I guess the bushing probably doesn't extend far enough above the PF to fit the pipe cutter...
But how about my cordless grinder?!?
Quoted from wayinla:I’ve had my Rick and Morty for a little over a week and it has been a great game. A few issues have come up.
1. In some adventures the background music turns into the chordal drone, and happens randomly. Doesn’t affect gameplay.
2. After a game sometimes the background music sounds distorted, almost as if underwater. Doesn’t affect gameplay.
3. Anyone have these odd playfield marks? I didn’t notice these when I unboxed and checked the game. They’re only visible from certain angles, not from the player’s view. They aren’t raised or sunken and appears to be beneath the clear. They don’t distort when pressed. Hoping it isn’t some kind of separation of the clear and playfield and that it doesn’t get worse. Doesn’t affect gameplay.
[quoted image]
Yeah, looks like the clearcoat is delaminating. Contact Spooky.
Quoted from WizardsCastle:Any strategies on getting big points?
I know the Megaseeds multiply something at the end of each ball, but what the trick to getting scores up to really make use of those Megaseeds?
Also, what does the multiplier down near the flippers represent and do?
Thanks!
Here you go! http://tiltforums.com/t/rick-morty-rulesheet/6391
1 week later
Quoted from jwilson:Someone left a present in my driveway.
[quoted image]
Yeah, that's a shiny 'vette behind that big dumb box...
Quoted from Pinzap:With regards to the magna save, I would generally agree with you probably 95% of the time. I did however, just a couple days ago, have a ball going out the outlane and I was late to the button. My mind did a quick calculation that a quick nudge and tap would do nothing, so I MASHED THE BUTTON for all it was worth. It somehow pulled the ball from deeper in the outlane than I had ever saved (still just barely in the outlane, but hopefully you get my point). I had about 3-4 bars of power on the magnet and it used all of them just as the ball was speeding past the magnet and flung the ball into the middle of the playfield. Hard to describe, but it was definitely the most powerful save I've ever pulled off and all due to some bad timing on my part and lucky timing on running out of power.
Yeah, there's a time for both for sure. The magna-save play on R&M is the best I've ever used, so fun and dynamic. Easy to kill yourself with it too. My favorite thing on the PF for sure. Have a BKSoR Pro right next to my R&M at the moment and it's just depressing how bad the magna save implementation on BKSoR is in comparison.
Well done Scott! 
Quoted from jwilson:Anyone making a ramp cover for the right ramp? I'm getting airballs like crazy.
And who was it that made that crystal mod for the scoop?
harryhoudini made a nice set, I have his prototype on my right ramp, includes lower and upper cover, completely eliminates the problem: https://pinballmods.co/rick-and-morty-pinball-mods/ramp-covers-protectors-rick-morty
Scott D. also made a cover for the top corner of the right ramp as well, you can get that at PBL: https://www.pinballlife.com/rick-and-morty-right-ramp-airball-protector.html
Quoted from jwilson:Feature wall.
[quoted image]
So, I’ve had a week with game #740 now and here’s a list of all the things I’ve had to do to the game to get it to play properly:
Update code (code it came with wouldn’t play background music)
Adjust EOS
Adjust flipper strength up
Cut down flipper bushings
Move left ramp
Adjust left ball guide
Adjust right ball guide
Replace right flipper leaf switch (kept flipping the upper flipper on ball launch -$10)
Reattach antigravity cable
Pull and reseat upper display cables
Add right ramp cover (due to huge air balls -$10)
Shim glass guides to reduce rattling
Adjust monitor settings due to washout
This is all from out of the box, and every single one of them could have been done at the factory. And this is on nearly the last machine to be built - imagine the horror show on the first ones off the line!
While looking around at the guts I also notice some other future issues - the wiring is undersized and also has almost zero slack, to the point where it’s under strain. For example, the launch button wiring is being physically pulled off the button. Would an extra 6” really have broken the bank?
The ramp cover and leaf switch ones particularly piss me off because I’m out of pocket on those. Maybe I’m also a bit extra salty because no one at Spooky will answer my emails asking about the replacement bushings or my tech questions.
That all said, the game itself is a triumph. The design is original and fresh, the mechs are cool and the code is both easy to understand while providing good strategy opportunities. Also it’s hilarious which is not something we see a lot of anymore. It’s an excellent game that Stern or JJP would never have done justice. I don’t regret my purchase at all.
But please, spend a little more time and money on the details.
This list and constructive criticism matches my experience as well, I'm #380. I only removed a couple of the screws in the garage ball guide, didn't touch any others and it's good, but everything else on your list matches mine. Except my ball launch wireform was junk and couldn't stay working for more than a few games. Replaced with the awesome PBL one.
I have to say that I truly think with all the separate wiring for each LED in R&M and everything else going on it was a stretch for their ability to manufacturer it. After seeing the amazingly clean build on my AfMR I am hoping that part of the move to a new boardset for spooky includes custom lightboards for the insert lighting. That would go a long way to cleaning up the underside of the PF.
But most of these issues should have been caught in QA, and processes improved to avoid them on future builds. I guess Spooky was balls out trying to get these games built on time with C19 delays, etc. but small town charm and goodwill will only last so far if customers face these types of issues on their NiB Spooky games.
Here's a picture of my upper flipper alignment for WizardsCastle .
IMG_0221 (resized).jpgQuoted from Zablon:Thing is, most of this stuff was already called out a year ago. It does seem interesting that it is STILL an issue on the later games. It is more surprising they didn't start cutting the bushing shorter after it was confirmed an issue.
For instance, it is KNOWN that the EoS needs adjusted a ton from default. Why is this not being done at the factory? Why are the ball guides not being properly installed?
Well we know from many designer interviews that Stern designers regularly visit the line when their games are being produced to check on the assembly and instruct the assemblers where necessary on how things need to be. That step seems to be missing from the Spooky setup. There is no experienced pinball person shooting the games before they leave, or providing instruction / refinements on an ongoing basis. My game even came with the right inlane insert LED missing completely, and that wasn't caught.
Fortunately I like tweaking my games, but as I said, total disaster for someone who just wants to unbox and play, like many NiB buyers. Even Bruce from the Slam Tilt! podcast can't stop whining about it. He isn't wrong about the out of box issues, but for a knowledgeable pinball guy he can't seem to get the game dialed in. My game plays great, shots feel good, etc.
From an overall product perspective (not counting manufacturing issues) I also see plenty of simple things that could be improved with limited cost to add that extra polish layer. I'd love to have Spooky send me their next game for a week and I'll get back to them with my notes on this matter, free of charge!
Quoted from Lounge:Hmm…. Then there’s two #380’s because I have a #380 also.
Quoted from Soulstoner:I really hope this is true.
OMG! Spooky has secretly made 1500 R&Ms! Those Bastards!
...or my memory sucks. My number is actually # 309. Sorry for the confusion.
1 week later
Quoted from snaroff:There is a setting for saving u-turn drains, which I've enabled. Check it out.
That is just wrong, the fun of the u-turn shot is the fast return. If there is no risk, why bother? You're game, do what you want.
Quoted from Calfdemon:I finally got around to installing the X-spacers yesterday and like everyone else said, game changer. The difference in how it shoots (for the better) is remarkable. I dialed my lower flipper power down from the stock 25 to 20 and it still has plenty of power. I left the upper at the stock setting of 20 though. I am not getting any airballs off of that flipper, so no need to dial it down.
Now I just need to find the time to finally put in my Mantis garage hole protector...
Ditto me exactly.
My flipper power felt okay before but yeah, with the spacers installed it's a whole new game. I've now got all 3 flippers set to "24" power and it shoots amazing. I also noticed that my ability to "micro-flip" and use other high-fidelity flipper techniques has improved. Overall, I'd say the feel of the flippers is more natural now and closer to what I'm used to.
I tried to be lazy and fit the protector via the small access under the left ramp, almost worked too, but couldn't get the right edge to lay flat enough so I pulled it back out for now.
Quoted from Aniraf:I measured the thickness of the playfield and I am 99% confident nobody is going to get a “micro hump” on plywood. If this were hardwood or something not engineered, I would not have advised 24 of the same screw.
I hand installed mine until the were tight. You don’t have to go wild on the torque when you have all 8 properly cutting into the wood. On my friends machine (second test machine I used) some of this 1/2 inch screws were hanging on by a few threads.
I used your screws on mine everywhere and had no issues at all. The PF wood seems to disintegrate rather easily out of the screw holes via removing the original screws so having larger replacements is a good idea.
Quoted from cooked71:The reed switches are brilliant - never ever fail.
Why are you guys using the x spacers instead of new bushings or cutting the busing down?
Just because it’s easier to install?
I went with the X spacers due to easier install + not wanting to need special "Spooky" flipper bushings forever more for this game. I'd rather have the spacers installed and use regular widely available bushings.
But really, either way solves the problem. Highly recommended.
Quoted from Gorgar123:[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Just got done putting some Pinstadiums on my R&M and wanted to show the results for anyone that might interested as I have not seen many photos of R&M with them installed. Not a must have on this title but I thought the upper portion of the playfield was kind of dark, especially when I am playing at night.
I still need to dial in the brightness and colors a little, but I think the photos are a pretty accurate before and after. Also, since I tied them into the white GI, they go off when the white GI goes off, so no diminishing of the fantastic light shows.
Not bad on this title since no metal ramps to cause pin-striping effect. I do like how it lights up the lightning bolts on the PF. But I would be concerned about "flattening" the impact of the light shows since the insert LEDs are not the brightest.
Quoted from Aniraf:Hey everyone, I wanted to give an early preview of my new "Ship Dangler". I came up with this idea because I've been through two "plastic springs" now. I firmly believe it is not a question of "if it will break" rather "when will it break".
What I'm trying to do is to create something that is simple to assemble, reliable and visually better than the stock version. I feel pretty confident that I have cracked the code, but I'll leave you all to decide.
Essentially what I've done is to "pinch" the existing plastic hole with a TPU flange I call the "wiggler". On top of that I have a part which copies the spooky clear plastic PETG design allowing for me to maintain the stock spooky aesthetic. Lastly, instead of using hot glue to hold the spring into the "funnel" I've created a lock which mates with the spring and allows for you to use one of the stock screws and lock nuts to hold the thing together. I am a big believer in being able to disassemble things without damage .
I'm going to post some pictures of the design and prototypes. I expect to print the final "wiggler" in transparent TPU in order to do my best to hide it and show off the artwork currently blocked by the plastic spring. If there is interest in this thing, I would be happy to record a couple of videos which try to detail how it works.
Overall the final product leaves you with a cleaner looking plastic minus the fact that you now have four unused holes cut into the plastic. Personally, I'd rather have the small holes in the plastic than the huge spring, but to each his own. Plus I figured if I opened up four holes in the middle of the playfield, other creative mod makers could come up with some cool stuff .
Let me know what you think.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Looking forward to the video demonstrating the improved wiggler action!
Quoted from Aniraf:Does anyone feel like Spooky has kind of gone dark on this game? I am super happy for them with the Halloween/Ultraman pin, but they seem to be spending so much time on those threads whereas they never mention anything in this one.
To me, the game is new. I guess to them it is old news?. I am wondering if we’re stuck with that final beta code since this thread pissed off the developer?
Am I alone on this one, or do others see it as well?
Let's face it. We are dead to them now. They have shiny new customers to worry about, and they are the best kind, deposits down for a new game they haven't even seen real gameplay footage of yet. The game can literally be everything they imagine in their heads right now, without harsh reality crashing down on them. It's a happy, exciting place! At least until the games actually start shipping and real problems start to show up...
I'm sure they'll get around to releasing another code update for R&M someday. Other than that, what were you expecting?
1 week later
Quoted from WizardsCastle:I had an airball launch all the way from the flipper to the house in the back of the game!
Recently put in the X-Spacers, and I've been noticing airballs where before I had none.
What settings do you all with lowered flippers have them at?
Thanks!
After installing the X-spacers I reduced my flipper power to 24. I'm still getting a fair amount of airballs though, so will try going lower.
Quoted from WizardsCastle:Whoa!!! I turned the power down to 27 and the shots to the left ramp felt significantly better.
Not sure how turning down the power makes the shot feel faster, bit it does!
Any ideas?!?!
Possible that the ball rides the flipper more consistently with less force of impact?
FYI. I lowered my bottom flippers to 24 last night and they feel great and zero airballs so far. Kept the upper at 26 (which I believe is default) for more juice around the loop to the garage.
1 month later
Quoted from orlandu81:Really? That's a bummer and a surprise. Could your magnet output from the magna-save be casting a wider net than mine? Not a big deal either way like you said, but this does peak my curiosity on the matter.
Seems like a lot of fussing around and expense to replace what was a perfectly working factory inlane switch.
1 month later
Quoted from Morgoth00:My upper flipper stays flipped out sometimes by itself. Click of the button reseats it though. Also have seen it flinch when bass goes off. Anyone seen this? Everything on the underside seems OK.
Check that your right flipper switches aren't getting caught on the plunger mech. I had this problem with mine and spent a lot of time engineering a cleaner switch setup.
1 week later
Quoted from wackenhut:They are on their way. What do they do that the originals do not?
Also, would anyone know why my side flipper kicks out a little when the ball ejects out into the shooter lane, or up the shooter lane?
The R&M playfield is slightly thinner than the Williams ones but the game uses all Williams style hardware. This results in the flipper bats resting slightly higher above the playfield than they should, and the ball is always hitting the bottom edge of the flipper rubber instead of the middle of teh rubber. This results in loss of power on shots and often puts a lot of spin on the ball when shooting, which affects the trajectory and really the entire feel of the game. The new flipper bushings allow the flipper bats to be set to the correct height above the playfield, and as a result the flippers feel much more powerful and the shots are easier/cleaner. By far the best upgrade you can make to the game.
The reason your flipper jumps when the ball ejects is the flipper switch is getting caught on the ball shooter. I had to adjust mine so that the switch stack didn't contact the ball shooter plunger.
2 months later
So I finally got around to re-routing the opto wires on the ramps. The factory approach of running the black wire over thin-air above the inner loop on the right ramp always bugged the sh*t out of me.
Took about 2 hours and 6 inches of extra wire to extend the harness on the right to make it work. The left one I just dropped the wire down beside the spinner, being careful to not impede the spinner action.
Before:
IMG_1112 (resized).JPGIMG_1113 (resized).JPG
After:
IMG_1115 (resized).JPGIMG_1117 (resized).JPG
Wish I had done it sooner.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Concretehardt:Is it possible to get some of the bonuses like “get Jessica’s phone number”
Oh course! And boy, is it awesome! 
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