My understanding was that Spooky really doesn't profit from the butter cabs, they just pass along their added expenses for producing a butter cab. Regardless, Spooky is always looking out for their customer's best interests.

I'm in at 394. If anyone with a wants to have more time and swap positions, I'm open to moving up to a sooner production number. Not really looking to pay to move up as I'm OK being patient until my number comes up, but I figured I throw this out there in case someone wants more time to get funds in order.

I got a chance to play Rick and Morty for a couple hours yesterday. What a great game. It kicks you in the nuts but you keep coming back for more. I'm really looking forward to getting mine.

I kept having my ball drain just after the immortality field ball saver timed out. I thought it would be funny to have the game play this clip (at the 0:11) mark if you drain your ball within 10 seconds after the immortality field timed out. It would seem to tie in nicely.

R&M 394 was picked up yesterday. Enjoying it quite a bit, but it is brutal.

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I have the same issue with both of my lower flippers. I haven't had a chance to look into it yet though.

If you're having trouble with coils, check to make sure the wires are soldered to the coil lugs. I had two coil lugs that weren't soldered.

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Does anyone else have issues with the autoshooter not firing strong enough to get the ball over the rail during multiball? It works fine during 1 ball play, but during multiball, 50% of the time the ball won't make it up the rail to the playfield.

I was playing last night and noticed the last two digits of my score was 68. I thought the last two digits were a count of megaseeds collected (I had collected 18 megaseeds). Might be a bug in how scores are calculated?

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I never noticed behind Jerry is the outline of the graves of Rick and Morty.

The LED in my pop-bumper failed and Spooky Luke got a replacement sent out right away. I got around to installing it tonight and found that there are different revisions of the pop bumper LED and the solder pad wiring changed. I think my original was a Rev E board and the replacement was Rev B. Not a big deal to move around the wiring, but just an FYI to check where each color wire goes when replacing the LED board in the pop bumper.

Below are the steps I took to replace the pop bumper LED board:

Remove the pop bumper cap by removing two screws.
Remove two screens that secure the LED board to the pop bumper body.
Clip zip tie underneath playfield for LED pop bumper wiring (the zip tie was behind the switch stack for the pop bumper). This will allow slack in the LED wiring.
Gently pull up on LED pop bumper board and pull wires up through the pop bumper body.
De-solder the four wires and remove old LED board.
Solder wires to new LED board; make sure colored wires go to right pad (R=red, B=blue, G=green, +=gray).
Gently push LED board back into the pop bumper board, feeding wires back under the playfield.
Install two screws to secure LED board to the pop bumper body.
Install the pop bumper cap with two screws.
Install zip tie on wires under the pop bumper to keep the wiring away from the moving parts of the pop bumper.

Noticed an odd bug on a location game last night. It is set up for 2 tokens per game, so I put in four tokens and had two credits. I hit the start button and player one started. I pressed the start button again to add the second player and it showed zero credits. I ended up adding two additional tokens for the second player. Not sure what happened to the original two credits. We played multiple two player games and didn't have that issue again.

Where are you moving to? I've gotten to be quite the expert at moving over the past year.

I was playing tonight and may have found a bug with starting the Pickle Rick adventure. I had the portal shots lit purple to start Pickle Rick. I had collected two Meeseeks and the had a Meeseeks lit on the right orbit portal shot. I made the shot, expecting to have Pickle Rick and Meeseeks Multiball concurrently, but only Meeseeks Multiball started. After I drained one of the balls, Meeseeks mullitball ended and Pickle Rick shots re-lit. I'm not sure if that is a bug or not, but I figured since both were lit, making the shot would start both Pickle Rick and Meeseeks multiball.

That make sense. I have to imagine that it is a relatively uncommon situation to come up in the game.

I had a similar issue with my pop bumper LED and ended up replacing it.

I want this to be played, uninterrupted and in totality, when you complete 20 adventures:

I never knew that. I thought the number of megaseeds lit in each dimension was random.

I have this issue and since I installed the new Pinball Life metal ramp, it only occurs during multiball modes.

I'd go back to the old style lock down bars if I had the option. I've been playing on location where someone inserted the lockdown bar but forgot to latch it, allowing the lock down bar to be removed (along with the playfield glass and coinbox). With the old style lockdown bar, the coin door couldn't be closed unless the latch bar was in the locked position.

Does anyone have an issue when starting the Total Rickard parasites adventure with no balls locked that the left drop target drops and the ball will get stuck behind the right drop target? It will try to drop the right drop target but it pops up right away?

I have no other issues with the game, just that particular mode with no balls locked.

Check the mechanical connections under the playfield. I thought I heard of someone having a pop bumper ring that was missing the nuts on the end of the rods. Also, make sure the mechanism isn't binding up and moves freely. In the software, I think the coil power for the pop bumper can be adjusted, so maybe bump up the power level.

Did you get the new flipper bushings from Spooky? That made a big difference for me.

I've owned both and R&M is a far superior game, not even close.

My upper flipper was weak and then intermittent, so I checked and found a cold solder joint on the coil lug. At first glance, it looked ok but when I tugged on the wire, it was obviously no longer making good contact. See before and after pictures.

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Dumb question - how do I turn off extra balls? I enabled tournament settings, but it still awards extra balls.

I tried putting the extra ball limit to off, but doesn't that just turn off the extra ball limit (essentially unlimited extra balls?). I have league night coming up so we turn off extra balls to keep game times reasonable.

My understanding is there are different programmers for Spooky. Eric Priepke coded most of Rick and Morty. It was very playable at launch with more modes and dimensions, as well as bug fixes, added during production. I believe Fawzma and Bug are coding Halloween, but I'm not 100% sure. When I had Alice Cooper, which was a Fawzma game, the updates were less frequent and included fewer features added compared to what my experience has been with Rick and Morty.

That did the trick, extra balls are off. Don't feel bad about the wording, my grasp of the English language is tenuous as well.

I agree, Rick and Morty code feels very much of a professional production level software release. I was disappointed with the ACNC software updates. There were still bugs and glitchy behavior in the game, especially during multi-ball modes. I thought that additional code for features could really improve ACNC, but that doesn't seem to be the case. I sold mine about a year ago and don't miss it. I really enjoy my Rick and Morty and I don't see it leaving my collection.

Why would they lock themselves in a position of stating the code is done. It has been mentioned before that new content needs to be approved by the license holder, so there may be the potential of more to come.

Hey, I get it. As an owner of R&M, I'd love to see more code updates with content added, or just know that code updates are done except for minor bug fixes.

However, from Spooky's perspective, this a no win scenario. If they say more code updates are coming and then don't happen, people are pissed because they expected more. If they state no more code/ content but end up releasing some new code, inevitably someone will have sold their game and will be pissed off.

In this situation, silence is the best solution for Spooky. For your situation, you will need to decide if current code is good enough and if not, sell it with the understanding that you may miss out on a potential future code release.

Go into test mode to test individual lamps and when it turns on, the display should tell you what LED it is and it should be strait forward to see where it belongs. Good luck.

I had an odd bug happen. I was playing ball 2 and literally just started Gromflomite multiball and a mode and tilted out. When ball 3 started, the screen just kept playing the Gromflomite multiball animation of Morty and the bug guys shooting lasers at each other. There were no audio callouts related to the multiball. I even started a mode during ball 3 and there was a mix of mode animations and mulitball animations (I didn't restart the mulitball). Anyway, maybe a bug with how the mulitball animations react in combination with a tilt out.

Might be cool to add a high score for the skillshot. I've been trying to build up the multiplier to see how high I can get a skill shot award.

Last night I was playing and the right flippers and ball kickout stopped working. It was late and didn't look into this yet. I assume a fuse blew. Anyone else have this issue? Hopefully I will have time to look at this tonight.

I ended up finding a broken coil power wire on the upper flipper, so power wasn't getting to downstream coils via the daisy-chained wire. Soldered it back on and good to go.

I've had the loss of speech as well; rebooting takes care of it and not sure what is the cause of it. I was having issues with the drop targets and found the right drop target microswitch was getting flakey and replacing it addressed issues.

Can you provide the detailed instructions and file format to obtain a log dump? Does it need to be done right after reboot?

My understanding is that the motor is quieter on routed games where it is on more often, so hopefully it will get quieter with use.

Did you blow it on balls 2 and 3?

How about a swearing dimension where every callout that has a swear is played?

What size replacement battery is needed?

If any changes are being made, I'd suggest adding a step to add to kick out the ball in the portal kicker by the left flipper inlane. I've had times were two balls get stuck there and the game won't kick it out.

I don't recall it kicking out, but will pay closer attention when if happens next and post an update.

Unfortunately, corporate America doesn't believe in the presumption of innocence until proven guilty. Companies are run by a bunch of spineless executives and woefully unqualified board of directors. They're only concerned with their "brand image" in case he is guilty, they don't want anything to splatter on the company. I could understand Adult Swim suspending their relationship with Justin Roiland until his legal issues are resolved, but firing him before he even has a chance to defend himself at trial is just a ham-fisted reaction that I hope spectacularly blows up in Adult Swim's face.

Measuring "good" voltage on a battery isn't necessarily a valid test to confirm the battery is operating properly. Most voltmeters are high impedance, meaning they draw very little current. A proper battery test is one that measures the batter voltage with and without a load (current draw). The voltage difference in this type of test is more indicative of a batteries condition. If you ever get your car's battery tested, the battery tester has a bunch of resistive coils to apply a load.

Using a voltmeter to test the the DC voltage level of a battery can confirm if the battery has failed as it will read less than the nominal voltage rating, but a measured voltage at or slightly above the nominal rating does NOT necessarily confirm that a battery is good.

My understanding is that Charlie works on acquiring licenses for machines, but has stepped back from daily operations with Luke, Bug and Squirrel leading production and support.

Tech support is free, but replacement parts may have a cost. I believe Spooky games have a 1 year warranty and I've heard from others that Spooky has sent replacement parts for free after the year has elapsed, generally for parts that are relatively low cost.

I put in the Jerry ramp mod and like it. What was surprising was that it made the upper flipper shot to the garage much more repeatable. I think the 3-D formed plastic ramp doesn't flex like the steel ball guide. The flexing in the steel ball guide seems to absorb the balls energy. Now, I generally shoot the left ramp and then upper flipper to the garage rather than use the Jerry ramp from the lower flipper.

You know it!