I just unboxed and setup #516. So far, the flipper drop is pretty noticeable. I can’t catch a ball fired from the scoop and in a multiball scenario the right flipper is really flaky if it has more than one ball on it.

The upper flipper fails to fire a lot of the time. I am not yet sure why, but it is pretty inconsistent.

The flipper power seems good as I can make both ramps. In fact, on some shots on the right ramp the ball will launch off because the power is so high!

I put the flipper hold power on high, but that didn’t seem to make any difference.

I’ll dig into the EOS adjustments and tweaks ASAP.

I have American Pinball's Hot Wheels which, to my knowledge, has the same P-ROC hardware as Rick and Morty (Blood Sucker Edition) and Total Nuclear Annihilation. All three games have completely different flipper "feels". To me, the Hot Wheels implementation feels the best and most balanced. (My preference...no knock on Spooky games)

There is one interesting detail in the Hot Wheels implementation which neither of the Spooky games have. It has a large inline capacitor for the flippers. I had some initial issues with my Hot Wheels and ended up talking with Dave B. at American who had said that he was able to get a better flipper experience when running the power through that large cap.

On Total Nuclear Annihilation (which also has a fairly nice flipper implementation) I don't even see EOS switches. I think TheNoTrashCougar wrote some kind of code to remove the requirement of a physical switch. (Don't quote me on this ).

I am not an electrical engineer, nor am I implying that there is anything wrong with the existing set-up of any of these games. I am a computer programmer and I really appreciate @epthegeek's comments as I believe these situations are a bit of a nightmare in terms of writing the "right" code. If you really look at the entire "problem" you quickly realize that there is technically no solution. We have no defined flipper standard. Although I agree that Stern's implementation typically feels good for 60-90 minutes of continuous play, I can also tell you that I have a Firepower, Cirqus Voltaire, Scorpion and Pinbot which all play perfectly and feel completely different than my Stern machines.

Considering the solution is probably a hybrid of user feedback, hardware type and game layout I feel like you would have to deploy multiple code packages and have end users cycle through them and report on their experience. I would be happy to help test if Spooky feels that would assist in solving the current problems.

NBAFan mentioned a hardware solution whereas the flippers were not seated on the bushings correctly? I'm not sure what exactly to look for there but I can attest that my flippers seem really high off the playfield compared to every other game I own. Perhaps there is something to that as well?

Quick thought...I was also thinking about the solution for this "problem" via my 3d printer. Based on the stresses which could be applied to the actual bushing I was thinking that it might be a better approach to build a platform which lowers the whole flipper mech, bushing and switches by 1/8th of an inch or so. If you were to 3d print a "plate" of sorts that everything sits on top of wouldn't Spooky be able to continue using off the shelf parts in tandem with their new and improved playfields?

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I had thought about the washers but was concerned that leaving gaps in the surface of the flipper mech to playfield could produce unexpected results or introduce more stress on the screws and bolts.

On the replacement screws, I had assumed it would be easier to source the correct length of standard thread screws than to redesign a flipper bushing that the industry has used for 30+ years.

I could be way off, but I feel like reducing scope to screw length would solve the problem faster than developing new and possibly one-off flipper hardware.

This is so perfectly disgusting! How hard was it to install? Sounds like you need to drill some things?

Question about the diverter...when the garage/dimension light is flashing green and I hit that right orbit shot is the ball always supposed to go into the garage? I would say 70% of the time mine rattles around and falls down the center loop.

Is there an official update for the flipper bushings? Does it even matter? I am wondering if the game would shoot more smoothly with lower flippers but perhaps it really doesn’t make a difference. Does anyone have details on the before/after experience?

I purchased and installed the Magnetic Read Switches from @sonic. I have to say, they are an excellent product. I think these should replace rollover switches almost everywhere they can! I highly recommend them.

My right coin door slot isn’t working. I’m not entirely sure how to test it honestly. It has three prongs which seem to handle some assortment of 12v. Does anyone know how to test/fix these?

Okay, check my last post…the switch seems to be working fine. I was able to research how it is supposed to function and with power off I confirmed that the “active state/level down” seems to open the always closed gate and tell the machine to coin up…problem is, it isn’t doing that.

It runs into a Multimorphic SW16 which clearly does something fancy to combine the switch messages and send them to the main board.

I validated that I have each coin slot set to one credit in the system settings. Is it possible the SW16 is failing? Is there a way to debug that?

If anyone cares, my right coin slot issue is failing because of the Multimorphic SW-16 board. I swapped it with another board and it works just fine. I am not sure how it failed, nor have I ever seen one of those fail...but I guess it happens. I contacted Spooky and we'll see if they can hook me up with a swap.

I agree! Not a Spooky problem, but a problem none the less. It is the worst design in pinball. I’ve always wondered why flippers don’t join together with some kind of lock pin that slides through the flipper shaft or maybe even set screws. The “squeezed metal” approach seems really ineffective. Perhaps the torque is just too high for other approaches…but I doubt it.

My stupid plastic “spring” that holds the ship broke. I’m not sure how since it is such a brilliant design. :/ is there a recommended fix for this that isn’t a large piece of metal?

I fixed my diverter yesterday. I didn't realize what the problem was before I took it apart. I'm going to try to explain here in case it helps other owners. I know that someone (sorry I forget the name) is working on a new diverter that is welded. That would completely fix the issue.

How is it supposed to work: In an "off" state the diverter should be open to the portal/garage. When the ball rolls over the right orbit switch the diverter should rapidly turn "on" effectively closing the lane to the garage and forcing the ball down the inner loop. Only when the green flashing "portal ready!" arrow is lit should you expect the diverter to remain open or "off" allowing entrance to the portal/garage.

What causes the issue: Spooky designed the diverter such that it is held onto the shaft using nylock nuts. These nuts rub against the decal applied to the backboard which in my case produced too much friction for the diverter to naturally open ("off" state).

The Fix: In my case, I just finished the work that Spooky started. As you can see in the picture, Spooky knows this is an issue because they already ground down the nuts and bolts. I pulled out my Dremel and did more of the same. I also had to take a tiny bit off of the C ring that they have on the shaft.

I'm not sure how stable the solution is as you end up removing more of the nylon and metal needed to hold the bolts in place. It seems sufficient, but only time will tell. The best solution would be to weld the two pieces together such that there is no extended metal surface to catch on the backboard.

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I'm not sure if I would consider it easier considering then you would have to clean up the wood shavings inside of the machine...but I fully agree that it would work just fine. I guess it simply depends on if you like grinding metal or wood .

Ahh, I should say mine is #516. It is entirely possible this is a thing of the past.

In my case it would stick in the "closed" state. The coil would fire, which closed the diverter for the inner loop but it would never open again since the nuts were getting stuck on the artwork. Every once in a while the vibration would open it up but I knew something was wrong since that green arrow would flash yet I couldn't reach the portal.

I fixed my plastic spring for the ship using the extra spooky sent me. I installed the new one keeping the nuts loose as recommended and I lowered the coil pulse. I’ve played 20 games and it is cracking again. This is fucking ridiculous. Someone must have a better idea for this thing.

I'm wondering if we could accomplish the exact same behavior with a flap made out of thin and flexible Vivak or something. If I think about the material used for blister packaging or playfield protectors. That stuff is way more flexible than the plastic being used.

I kept looking at the design of this and wondering if we could just make a pyramid shape that has a lip on the outside. The idea being that the pyramid edge would rest on the playfield until the post pushes it up. Once it gets pushed up the lip would catch the underside of the plastic and make sure that the ship didn't go flying out.

Based on the behavior, I don't really see the need for a "spring" like design. All it needs to do is hold the thing in place until that post knocks it around.

I attached a picture of what I have in my head...not sure if this makes sense to anyone else or not.

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So, I'm about 750 balls into the game and I've noticed just a little bit of a rough spot on the portal hole. I'm not a huge fan of the metal protector so I decided to design my own that more or less follows the same pattern I've had on my Cirqus Voltaire for many years. Via some 3D print magic and what I'm now realizing is a great filament I came up with this (pictures). It is a simple snap fit that is designed to lock into the hole with a very tiny "foot" which grips the bottom of the playfield. It takes about 20 minutes to install because you have to remove the house. In testing so far (5 games) it seems to work pretty great. I did get one "lip out" from a fast moving ball in the right orbit but I've also seen that without a protector so I have no way of knowing.

I'm curious to know the thoughts of the community. If this is something people are excited about I could print and ship them as well. I don't think they would be very expensive.

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Yeah, my theory is that it is certainly stronger than the clear coated wood. Also I hit a few with a hammer on cement just to validate they could handle some impact. Basically the wall portion will not break whereas the lip portion will chip away. I cannot imagine a ball hitting it at the speed of a hammer. I honestly don’t think a ball could even impact the ridge in such a way that it would chip, but I need many more hours of testing to validate that. I suspect the only way it would be fully tested would be to put a bunch of them out there in the wild.

Yeah, I have no issue providing the file. I’m not looking to make money on it…just help people out. I just need time to upload everything to public spaces.

Yep, I'm not knocking the Mantis protector at all. Based on my experience with Cirqus Voltaire the part of the hole that got smashed was the very edge (hence my design). That said, there is no competition as I'm not trying to sell these. If you like the Mantis version, buy that one!

OK, here are the details for the 3D printed hole protector. I'm not sure the Thingiverse link shows the pictures yet...but you guys get the idea from this thread: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4866580

If you're interested in tinkering with the design, you can do that here: https://cad.onshape.com/documents/40d82f709df95a983374ad60/w/dbaf121b6e644678ccd4d89e/e/a8652334283867e38030c7f9.

Make sure that you read my instructions in the Thingiverse if you print it. I'm not responsible for anything that could possibly go wrong from installing it or using it . Also, I would love any feedback about how it holds up for others people.

As for the PMs on selling it...I wasn't planning on selling it, but I could work up some numbers around the material cost, time and shipping. I honestly think shipping would be the most expensive part of it...but I might even be able to get away with just a padded envelope. Give me a few days and I can work up some kind of number that is both worth my time and not insane for the buyers.

Last thing I'll mention. I've got another 3D print solution that I'm testing. I have some friends coming over tonight to put it through the paces. If it works out, I'll drop that one tomorrow and maybe then there would be a reason to sell both parts together. I appreciate all the positive comments. I've never designed something for a pinball machine before and this is pretty cool .

I was able to get about 100 balls played with the 3D printed protector tonight. It got a crack on the left side. Same spot razorsedge just talked about. I'm modifying the design to try and take a little bit of extra impact.

Based on the testing tonight, I'm pretty confident that it will work. I might need to lower the print resolution to .1 in order to make something that is really strong around that edge but overall I'm still pretty happy with it. Even the crack has failed to spider out and I drilled that shot 20-30 times. My guess is that the challenge will come from what is behind the plastic. In order for this thing to work, it needs the wood/clear behind it to be pretty uniform. I won't be able to map to the dimensions of every game.

Even with the crack it does the job, it just doesn't look as cool. I'll test my second version tomorrow and report back. I just wanted to post in case anyone has tried to make one.

Yeah, I’m going to kick up Multiball Monday maybe as soon as next week. I need to get my Oktoberfest working and it is being a bit of an ass at the moment.

As for the hole protector, I’m testing a new design and I’ll hook everyone up ASAP. I think it just needs a little more or a little less plastic to withstand the harder shots. I think I am pretty close to a good solution.

Yeah, I am using PETG because I didn’t want to pass the impact to the wood. TPU would probably work if it is thick enough. The negative would be that it might slip out of the hole since I am relying on the pressure fit to keep it in place. If anyone else prints it with a different material let me know.

I have another update on the 3D print portal protector. I've modified the design and added what I shall refer to as the "love hump". After making the modification I manually threw 100 balls at it from each direction. I'm pretty confident that this will prevent any sort of cracking in the plastic but I can't guarantee anything as I only have one game to test on. That said, I really slammed it. I cannot imagine a ball traveling faster then I was throwing it with my hands.

So...that brings me to my next item...expanded testing. I have had a lot of people message me asking if they could buy one of these. As I've said, I didn't expect to sell it (hence my posting of the files) but I understand that not everyone has a 3D printer or even if they do, they might not want to hassle with the material and post production process. As such, I've decided I could go ahead and try to sell it.

Since I would like more testing before I start cranking them out, I'm going to sell 10 then collect feedback. In the event that you buy one and it breaks, I will work with you to understand what happened then possibly revise the design. I'll send you another one for the cost of shipping only.

As for price, the first 10 will be $40 each. That includes cost of materials, cost of manufacture (time and maintenance), finishing work (sanding smoothing), packing & shipping (roughly $8), and my time. Assuming everything goes well, I'll set a final price and perhaps list them on a Pinside shop. Excuse me while I wade into the world of mod creation.

Lastly, because this is the internet I have to say if you don't like the price, prefer the less expensive Mantis hole protector, or have any other complaints...don't buy one! I've given away the design for free and explained exactly how to make them. I simply want to help people and I'm not looking to get into some kind of debate about how my design or material choice is shit or how I should loose money on each ring because that helps everyone .

For now: if you are interested, hit me up with a Pinside PM. I already have the first 10 but I may be able to expand that fairly rapidly depending on people's schedules and their ability to test.

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You guys are going to get really sick of me...but I think I fixed another issue with 3D printing. So, as I mentioned a while back...my theory on the flipper bushings is that the entire platform should be dropped roughly an 1/8th. I don't think it makes sense to change standard pinball parts (like bushings) when all that is really needed is a slightly thicker playfield.

So, I developed something I'll call the "X spacer". My goal with this project was to get the flippers into the correct position without forcing people to remove the flippers or deal with any complex disassembly. In testing I have to say it makes a world of difference. I really did not believe that 1/8th of an inch was enough to impact the way that the game plays but holy shit if it isn't a huge improvement.

To install these, you basically need three X spacers (two if you don't care about the upper flipper...but you should ) and 24 #8 5/8 screws. You take all of the screws out of the flipper plate allowing it to lightly hang by the flipper only, then thread the 3D printed part underneath. It is slightly annoying to flex the part around all of the wires and things, but it takes less than five minutes per flipper.

Like my portal protector, I'm planning on dropping the designs for these as soon as I get everything posted. If you're interested in buying them from me, once again I'll work up some kind of price and start shipping them to people in need. I'm currently working on my packing and shipping skills to figure out a way to get stuff to people for as reasonable as possible. Give me a few days on both sharing the file and dropping a price.

If you are interested, go ahead and message me here and I'll tally everything up.

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I am printing these with PETG. It seemed like a pretty good fit for the application where I don't really want any possibility of "squeeze".

I thought about the exact same thing. I opted to do this for three reasons: 1) Easier to install vs. dicking around with a stack of washers while trying to tighten the screws. 2) Full coverage of the contact surface, hence maximum stability. 3) The screw holes are close together and I couldn't find an ideal sized washer to either wrap both or cover each screw separately.

As promised...here is the spacer if you wish to print one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4869750.

If you wish to buy them from me I'm going to offer two options:

1) $45 gets you all three spacers and 24 of the 5/8th inch screws
2) $40 gets you all three spacers

Why the difference you ask? Well...the screws are stupid expensive! I bought a box of 100 for $15 and they are sold out everywhere I can find them. Also, they add a lot of weight which will make the mailing slightly more expensive.

Why isn't there a two spacer option? Seriously...don't do it...I cannot believe how much better the game is! Just get three because I'm going to charge the same regardless.

Lastly, for anyone who feels so inclined to tell me I'm "ripping people off" with my prices let me remind you I absolutely don't give a fuck. I did this because I love pinball and enjoy most of the players (except for you). It may cost $0.37 to print something but don't forget the hours of print time, electricity, maintenance, packing, shipping, and at least this many experiments (example picture) plus designing and testing. On top of all of that...I'm giving my designs away for non-commercial use! So let's just agree to disagree on the numbers I came up with...cool?

Awesome...now I'll ping everyone who PM'ed me. I should be able to start shipping these next week...I just need some envelopes and time to print them.

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OMG I know! I swear there is a screw hiding in my R&M right now! I dropped it and I have no f'ing idea where it went.

I know this seems like some kind of marketing post right after I spammed out the details on my bracket, but absolutely lower your flippers. I cannot guarantee it will solve it but that shot is so much better for me now!

As for the cabinet issue…ughh. I am confident it can be repaired and Spooky will help you. They are really good with this stuff.

I would sure be willing to work out some kind of deal on their next game . I certainly don’t want to tell them how to do business or even how their machine should “feel”.

Personally I think the game feels insanely better with the flippers lowered. Like I said earlier, I was shocked by this. In fact, I am debating turning down my flipper power because it actually hits the ball so much harder that I see more air balls and ramp launches. Even the upper flipper feels different for me. I am actually able to hit the left side of the horseshoe lock reliably from the upper flipper now.

The slight change in height also has the effect of slightly adjusting the timing on the shots. The left ramp and right orbit feel more like “sweet spot” shots to me vs. the factory design.

Lastly I am actually debating if dropping the flippers has an impact on the coil heat generation. I don’t want to make any false claims here, but I swear my flippers felt strong for a longer session than prior.

Please take my comments with a grain of salt…for all I know this is a placebo effect and nothing has changed . I’ll get them in the hands of a few other people and hopefully they can report back on their experience.

I wanted to post a quick update on the 3D printed portal protector. I've been testing designs of this for about 2.5 weeks now. I thought I had it...then I installed the flipper spacers I created..

As the story goes, I started with the upper flipper just to ensure that the idea would work after many flips. Everything worked great! Then three days ago I installed the X spacer on my main flippers. Although the spacer performed fantastically, the portal protector did not. The ball seems to come off the flipper with more force than before which has the chance to crack the portal protector. While experimenting I would say it takes approximately 30 direct hits before the portal protector will crack.

The cracks themselves aren't the issue for me (pictured), it is the aesthetic around the top of the portal. After installing this thing I've become enamored with the look as well as the function. So I went to work to try and solve this. I stayed up way too late over the last two nights, but I can tell you as of this morning I am really happy with the performance of my latest design. I call this design the "ugly duckling" because you actually have to print it with no perimeters. I'm not a physicist but my theory is that this allows the "fibers" of the plastic to disperse the impact exactly how I want rather than trying to take the added stress and push it around the ring.

The test units should be going out tomorrow. Assuming I get positive feedback on both the performance and the shipping I am going to drop the price (refund the testers) and create a bundle with the X spacer set. I am super excited that I might be able to keep costs down and increase quality at the same time!

Please be a little patient as portal protecting and flipper gapping is not my full-time job . I will be cranking on these things during nights and weekends to ensure that I can help everyone who is interested.

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I'm totally cool with this...but please don't accept money for them. It would feel a little shitty to know that someone else is profiting off of my work.

Also, if you printed them for yourself I would love to know how they are working out. In testing today I'm almost certain I need to turn the flipper power down. I'm getting air balls galore! I had two balls go on top of the horseshoe plastic and quite a few aggressive ramp shots. The difference is insane! I am sure everyone's experience will vary but holy crap if 1/8th of an inch isn't like topping a golfball in pinball!

No issue at all! I love that you're doing this. Shipping to Canada is super expensive. I just want to make sure my design isn't being sold to people behind my back. Like I said...it just feels shitty. There is nothing I can do other than bitch on the forums about fair use of licenses . It helps me feel like a real designer .

Ohh! You will have to take a picture of that for me!

This is a big post...sorry in advance :/.

I've run the numbers on portal protectors, X spacers, print time, labor, shipping, etc. and I think I have a fair bundle price along with an updated portal protector price. Hopefully everyone will like this.

Design changes:
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First, let me talk about changes to the portal protector. As mentioned in a prior post my increased impact testing lead me to a different print technique. After testing this method for four days, hundreds of balls and many hammer blows I am 95% confident this will be the final design. I only know what I don't know...which is the size and shape of every other portal hole. Chances are they are very similar, but as I've read with the Mantis protector...people have had a few struggles. This could be the result of uneven clear or slight variations in the cut or routing. Fortunately I think I have a way of dealing with that situation as well.

Let me get into the attached pictures. The first one shows the newest protector printed with the "perimeterless" design. It is less smooth than prior versions in exchange for 10x the strength. The second picture shows it installed (not the best picture but my lighting sucks). When installed it gains a slightly enhanced vibrancy which allows it to catch blue light even better than before. Lastly the new design doesn't need any finish work. Based on the way I'm printing these I end up with a sufficient edge where the ball rolls allowing me to skip the manual sanding part and ultimately save time/money. It is slighly more grainy, but it doesn't matter at all as it should be about .1mm under any area the ball could impact. All around this is a better product. It is different than what I initially showed thus it is important for me to be transparent.

Pricing updates:
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I keep getting questions about pricing and bundling so I'm going to list my new SKUs below along with instructions for payment. If you follow the instructions as written you don't need to PM me on Pinside, but I'm totally cool chatting if you don't mind a little wait. Hopefully these updates will suit everyone. All prices are including shipping to the US. I can work with people on international prices.

- Portal Protector ---------- $30 shipped
- X Spacer (screws) ---------- $45 shipped
- Portal+Spacer ---------- $65 shipped

If you do not need the screws, you can take $5 off the price of the X spacers.

Purchasing:
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PayPal the amount of your options to [email protected]. Include your address, Pinside ID and your option selection. Please include all three items such that I can ensure you get proper communication.

Shipping/Timeline:
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I am estimating about one week from time of payment to shipping. This could flex based on a few different factors. Rest assured, I'm going as fast as possible.

Warranty:
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If for any reason your portal protector or spacer breaks I will send you a replacement for the cost of shipping. Ideally (if my shipping methods work) this should be less than $5 US. I will ask for pictures of the broken part and inquire why/how it broke. I don't anticipate any issues with this crowd, but I've not done this before so I want to protect myself from someone who is trying to take advantage of the situation.

Final notes:
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I will be donating 5% of profits to Pinside. I will respond to every PM/email as soon as possible. I really appreciate the outpouring of support and excitement around my ideas. It is really fun to know that my printer is doing something productive while I'm working my day job .

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Personally I hate removing the flippers from the flipper arms. I feel like the bent metal is never the same after the first time you've loosened it. I am a "Playfield Protector guy" so I've removed a lot of flippers on brand new machines and I've also replaced a lot of flipper arms. You wouldn't believe how many times the f'ing bolt pops causing me to replace the stupid flipper arm.

I would be really happy to talk to Spooky about using my design or shipping it to R&M owners. Obviously they need to test it and make sure the game plays like they intended. As I said before, this might actually make the flippers slightly too strong. They might want a software change in conjunction with the brackets.

Are you thinking they will break roughly at the same time as all of Spooky’s PETG printed parts on this machine? .

I’m pretty confident 100% infill PETG is going to be just fine for longer than most of us are alive. I think the bushings would be the penultimate solution, but I don’t think that Spooky should create a custom bushings for a single game. That just seems like a bad move for a small business.

Looking at the basic physics of this...moving four small contact points down 1/8th of an inch while retaining the same surface area of the contact to the playfield should not increase the stress to the contact points. For context, I installed these on a friend's machine (as well as mine) and his machine only had 3/8th's screws! In fact, a few of them were already loose. If Spooky was really worried about the stresses on the flipper mech contact points, I think they would have used some 1/2 inch screws.

There is no way I would sell something I'm giving away for free for $45 each to Spooky. If they were to contact me, I'm pretty sure we could work out some kind of arrangement. I "invented" a 3D printed washer...it isn't exactly a patentable idea . I'm only charging for my time. I'm not slacking on these, I'll have instructions for everyone, support and a warranty. toyotaboy created a different solution for the cost of shipping only. If you don't like my prices, get his. If he has the time to print, send and support his solution that's awesome! I unfortunately do not have that time unless I charge $1000 a set .

No, I am saying that bushings would probably be the "final" solution. I just don't view it as a pragmatic direction for a small company.

I completely agree that 3D printing can break. I break 3D parts all the time to test them. I am saying that Spooky used 3D printed parts on this game (top and bottom side). Frankly, they aren't the best 3D prints I've seen. Despite their print quality, they didn't have seem to have concerns with durability. Also, you sell a lot of 3D printed parts. They are exceptional and don't seem to have any issues with durability.

Good callout...that was an incorrect usage of the word in the way I was trying to use it. I use "penultimate" a lot for software stuff.

Oh boy do I have a lot of portal protector stuff to talk about tonight...

First, to print it...I recommend printing it with the "lip" side down. (example picture attached) I can't tell if you are doing that based on the picture. Also, as I said in one of my earlier posts, it needs printed with 0 perimeters (unless you are using TPU).

Second, if you are grabbing my designs directly from the OnShape file...you're good. If not, stop what you're doing . I've iterated a ton today and the file on thingiverse is not up to date.

Third...I thought I had it...hammer blows, bending, hundreds of balls...PETG still cannot handle the force of my flippers on the May "beta" code with the spacers installed. Today I noticed a small crack on the inside of the protector and I wouldn't be surprised if it started to spider out.

Since I refuse to give up I decided to test TPU like was talked about early on in this adventure. I did not think that TPU would give me the protection needed but boy was I wrong! Tonight I did about four hours of different TPU tests and I am now 99% confident this solution will work the best! I won't bore you with the tests, or the story of how I changed the design and printing method, but trust me it works so much better.

Everyone who has purchased one of my protectors will receive a PM tomorrow (sorry I'm exhausted tonight) explaining the new options. Basically, you can call me a fool and I'll return your money immediately or you can accept the TPU version. For the people I've already shipped to, I will recommend waiting to receive the TPU version before you install. I think the TPU product is so much better that I will not be shipping it going forward. If you choose to install the PETG version, chances are it will be fine for days, maybe even months...but I cannot fully trust it.

I'm happy to report NOTHING changes with the visual! It looks exactly as amazing as the PETG version did (maybe even more??). Also the installation is MUCH easier with the added advantage of being able to remove it without damaging it. I am blown away by this material!

Last but not least I wanted to show everyone a quick video of a final protector

As you can see, this stuff is really flexible yet very firm on the edge.

I know my posts are becoming stupid long...sorry for that. I probably should start another thread all about R&M 3D printed parts or something. Let me know if everyone is getting annoyed with this shit.

Thanks again for keeping up with my prints and thank you to everyone willing to fund this experiment!!

protectorBlueLight (resized).jpeg

protectorPrinting (resized).jpg

Is that a glow in the dark spacer??? Nice!!

Realizing that people are printing this...I figured I'll attach my draft instruction sheet. Everyone who buys one will receive it of course, but if you want to attempt on your own this guide might help you.

The key callout is to remind everyone that the X shape is simply to help align the "washer" pads. You can bend that thing around all you want until you get it into position.

Xspacer_Installation.pdf

Yep. I ordered TPU the same day we were discussing it. I never had a reason to use it before, but now that I understand it I am going to make reasons!

I am still impressed that I was able to get the PETG to work so well! I just do not want to ship something that ends up failing. It needs to be pretty damn perfect if I am putting my name behind it.

Oh, and @pinmonk, if you are so inclined I would love to see coil temps before and after flipper adjustment. You could use shaved bushings or spacers. I just dropped my flippers coils down again because of airballs! I can’t help but wonder if the “cleaner” impact translates to the coil temp.

Right. I absolutely don’t want to create work for you but your tests have been awesome.

I don’t have a glow in the dark firmament, only transparent green which “glows” when it picks up the blue light. It looks like this when the light is white.

04E06099-E325-4034-84A9-32B347C05DF0 (resized).jpeg

I ended up using a MatterHackers TPU that looked almost exactly the same as the Prusament I was using. I'm very pleased with the material thus far. It took me almost no time to get it printing and the results are awesome! https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/translucent-green-mh-build-series-tpu-flexible-filament-175mm-1kg/sk/MHKHHWUR

I posted all of the instructions for purchase here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/280#post-6305739. Or you can PM me and I’ll get you the details and start printing .

What is the difference with the new wire form? It looks like it doesn’t have a catch at the end?

Omg! That is way better! That is a paid upgrade?

I can’t figure out what is up with PinballLife, is it owned by Scott Danesi or does he work there or something? Even this game is weird, he posts all the time on the Total Nuclear Annihilation thread but never on this thread. Was there some kind of falling out with this game where he is off creating better parts but not talking about them? Maybe they are completely unrelated and I don’t know what I’m talking about.

I have to say, with the flippers lowered and everything dialed in, the game is fantastic. There are some pretty nasty design flaws but the core of the game is really great. Maybe without COVID we could have seen a little more iteration in the functional pars. The code/rule design is excellent! It has to be one of the best theme integrations ever done. The fact that I am still getting new dimensions and random call outs is great.

Shaved bushings or spacers is my vote. I've seen such a difference that it feels like a whole new game to me!

Typically I see that happen when the spring either breaks or slips off.

I am super happy that these are working for others!

I’ll add my own PSA: lower the flipper strength after installing! I would bet good money that Spooky’s solution comes along with adjusted coil power. I am now down to “25” on both flippers using all stock hardware and the May “beta” code. The default is 30 and it is way too much after correcting the flipper spacing. I plan to keep testing but I might go even lower. Ultimately this will be great for the coil heat generation.

Thank you Scott! Very nice of you to answer my questions! I am always interested in how the world of pinball works.

R&M is a fantastic layout. The game balance, objectives and shots are fantastic. I'll be honest, I thought it was a bit of a "clunker" before adjusting the flipper gap but ever since then I'm loving the shots. I imagine the white wood felt different than the production model.

I think I'm speaking for everyone here when I say we appreciate your involvement and really love when Spooky, Eric and yourself comment in the forums. It improves the ownership experience for any game.

I added this.

I love your delivery! It reminds me of how it’s made. Very cool.

This is the one I designed: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4869750. I think there might be another out there somewhere.

I am still printing and selling them but the screws have been hard to source. I literally just got off the phone with JMAC and they are now contacting HillmanGroup directly. Apparently these are manufactured in Ohio and should ship out tomorrow which means 3-5 more days. They offer no expedited shipping on orders less than 1000 boxes. I've also placed another order with a company called Fastenal which is supposed to be 2-4 days to my door.

PM me if you would like to make an order without the 5/8ths screws and I can get that in the mail tomorrow, otherwise I have to wait .

On the flip side, I am going to have a lot of f'ing screws if they all show up!

No apologies needed! Different people are going to have different designs...that is what is fun about this .

For the record, the "X" portion on my design is simply there to make lining up all of the little "pads" easier. I wanted a solution that I could install with one hand. Also there is no need to remove the X portion. It will just sit under the flipper mech. It was specifically designed as an X so that it was both strong and unable to interfere with other components. My initial designs were rectangles.

If people like your solution I say they should totally go for it. It saves filament and as you've shown you can make them and ship them for way less than I could ever dream of doing . This "mod business" isn't exactly my first priority on the job front. Also...people like PinMonk run circles around my abilities. I just happened to have a few ideas that might improve the game we all love.

Oh, and on the screws you linked...I have been trying really hard to persist the slotted hex screws that come standard on the game. If you want to switch to pan head, that is certainly an option. Maybe I'm being too anal on that...I just like my pinballs to use hex .

toyotaboy it looks like that site you recommended might have the screws I'm using too...they are more expensive than the places I've mentioned. https://www.mcmaster.com/92470A196/drive-style~slotted/screw-size~no-8/length~5-8/tip-type~pointed/.

TY for the other reference for future fastener needs. I've never done this so ideas are really appreciated!

I did just get notice that one of my orders shipped today though...so I'm really hopeful now!

I am a sucker for that glass too. There are a few things in pinball I would have never thought made a difference but I was wrong.

Oh yeah, my link goes to the totally wrong place. Your link is correct.

Yes! I believe the 1/2 inch screws would work with the spacers as some of the screws spooky is using are 3/8ths. My logic was simple, add 1/8th of an inch in plastic...add 1/8th of an inch in screw. The theory is that if Spooky used a 1/2 inch screw and you put the 1/8th inch spacer in then went to 3/8ths inch screw you are technically filling the exact same void that was there in the first place.

If you want to use my spacers with 1/2 inch screws, go for it. I have not personally tested this but the logic is pretty straight forward. I would not use them with 3/8ths inch screws. So when you unscrew your flipper mech and end up with a random grab bag of 3/8ths and 1/2, make sure you put the 3/8ths aside and get more 1/2 .

Also, like loneranger said...absolutely do not remove the spacer and install 5/8ths screws. If you get or make a shorter bushing and don't like the spacer then remove it and go back to 1/2 inch screws. Effectively they will be at the exact same factory depth just like the 5/8ths were with the spacer.

That is a lot of fraction speak...hopefully this makes sense .

I've noticed an improvement in this as well. Lowering the flippers seems to improve the knockdown and the ability to dead bounce. I do not have a scientific measurement of this but as I've stated before...I'm shocked that it made that big of a difference.

Right!? It is insane how much better the game is!

I think 25 is feeling like the sweet spot for me. I still get some aggressive shots, but the game feels really solid.

On a different not, I wanted to update everyone who has purchased from me. I had a miracle happen today where I was able to find some more screws at an Ace hardware on the other side of Phoenix, AZ. Every order prior to 6/8/2021 will be shipping out Monday! I really appreciate everyone's kindness and willingness to wait. I should have more screws coming from three different vendors this week. If they don't show I'm going to crawl in a hole .

What the hell is a flipper gauge!?? I need this in my life!

I’m more focused on that wallpaper in the background…is that an acid trip or what?

Yep! I had to change my timing completely...also flipper strength is down to 25 on both for me.

Have you modded your flippers yet? I noticed about 10x the dimples after the mod.

Well yes, I am using my mod...but I think any of the forms of flipper dropping on this thread are viable. You can use my mod, shave the bushings @toyotaboy's mod, or the PinballLife bushings. I'm not trying to promote my stuff...just saying that dropping the flippers gave me a lot more dimples.

Yeah, I don't know...I still feel like bushings are more of a pain in the ass to install, but they are probably the "best" solution. From my point of view I say drop your flippers however you want...the game is a dream come true once you do that .

I absolutely do not want to screw over anyone! PM me and we can work something out. I know it seems self centered, but I still believe the spacers are the easier install and more scalable solution for Spooky. Maybe I am crazy, but I feel like designing a custom nylon bushing must be expensive. I also think it is weird that the flipper shaft would connect higher with the flipper arm. I have no scientific evidence that any of that means something, but my gut says 40 years of one configuration shouldn’t be changed for one playfield.

Again, I want to stress, these are my opinions and I do not want to peddle this shit. If you are unhappy with the spacer solution hit me up and we can talk.

This is why I hate removing the stupid flippers! I think this game uses standard Williams style flipper bats. I don’t think you would have an issue with anything designed for Stern, Spooky, American or JJP. If anyone else knows for fact, please chime in.

First, the game looks awesome, Second, it made my day to see the portal protector on a game outside of my own! Hopefully it was an easy install.

It sounds like Spooky will send them to you if you a) email them and b) enjoy rebuilding flippers .

You totally can do that. I decided I would just do 5/8th all the way around because I am never changing it back. I don’t see any particular logic for the mixed sizes.

Haha. I can take a look when I get home.

This is such an excellent call out that I didn’t even realize. R&M is the only game I’ve ever played where the ball can pinch between the rollover switch and wire guide in my inlane. I didn’t think about the playfield width at all. The magnetic switches are amazing, but I bet we just needed to drop the standard switches the whole time!

I measured the thickness of the playfield and I am 99% confident nobody is going to get a “micro hump” on plywood. If this were hardwood or something not engineered, I would not have advised 24 of the same screw.

I hand installed mine until the were tight. You don’t have to go wild on the torque when you have all 8 properly cutting into the wood. On my friends machine (second test machine I used) some of this 1/2 inch screws were hanging on by a few threads.

I cannot vouch for the life of the spacers any more than I can vouch for the life of a bushing. With my purely anecdotal evidence I will say that I have seen cracked bushings, but to date I have never seen a cracked spacer (granted I don’t know of a game with a spaced flipper mech ). With the data we have, I think it is slightly premature to think that spacers are a temp fix.

As for resale machines, I could say that if I went to replace bushings on a machine then realized my existing stock of bushings do not work, I would be pretty pissed.

I designed and used the spacers because I cannot bear to see a small company customize an irrelevant part of a machine like this. Even if the design, casting, testing, etc. cost them less than $1000 (which I doubt) it is a waste.

I installed the spacers because rebuilding flippers is a pain. Yes, it is technically “easy” and I have done it at least 100 times, but it is annoying to me. I tried to think of ultra convenience with my design. I even printed them in high contrast colors so you could easily see them through the existing mech holes.

As for the cost, I am the first to tell you that I am charging too much. As I said early on, I priced these based on my time and materials. I am confident someone could make them for way less but screws, envelopes, shipping and time add up. I shared the design so that anyone who has or knows anyone with a 3D printer could create them.

For the record, I messaged Spooky KT on these forums and offered my solution to them for free. I did not get a message back, so I went ahead and kept selling them.

I am sure nobody was looking for the opinion from the guy who is selling the damn things, but there it is .

Oh no, sorry! Not at you. I was just dumping my thoughts and i quoted that one thing you said on the strength.

Everyone is being totally cool in this forum. I don’t feel threatened or anything. Sorry it is hard to write stuff without it taking on emotional tones.

I struggle to believe that the spacer would shift or break, but full disclosure I didn’t believe 1/8th of an inch on the flippers would change the game.

This is probably a smart idea. I would be heart broken if someone removed the spacers and then screwed through the playfield. Maybe that is why Spooky went with bushings? I don’t think the 5/8th screws will break the surface, but they could dimple it.

I had exactly one on a Firepower I bought. The game was pretty beat before I restored it, but the whole top of the bushing was cracked and tore off when I removed the flipper.

Another note, like I said…everyone is great in this thread. However you do it, lower those flippers! I’ll work on something for the switches when I get home per WizardsCastle request. Important hind sight, my outline wires can actually stop a ball. It is rare, so I didn’t really think about it. They might be nice to lower or bend the wire.

I used a Dremel on mine and took more of the lock nut off. My friends game is perfect and makes no contact with the back board. Someone else on here made a welded diverted that looked excellent, but it was a one off and not for sale.

Now this I would gladly buy. I completely agree this shot is amazing and could be smoother. Your solution looks really good. I wonder if we could somehow combine it with Lounge solution and create the ultimate diverter for this game?

I noticed that dropping the flippers changed the angle of every shot. Once I got used to it, it felt really good. I wish I could sell higher scores, but that I cannot do .

I am having an issue where one of the right drop target in the horseshoe won’t drop to release a ball when multiball is triggered. It tries really hard, then just gives up and holds the ball there. Oddly, there seems to be no way to free it other than removing the glass or restarting the game. You can wait for at least five minutes and it will not fire a chase ball or cycle the solenoids hard enough to free it.

Thank you all for the tips on the drops! That makes a ton of sense.