(Topic ID: 257850)
Linked Games
Rick and Morty (Blood Sucker Edition)
Spooky Pinball, 2020-
Rick and Morty (Standard)
Spooky Pinball, 2020
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Midlothian, VA
Quoted from xfassa:Just received the options email...#139.
Anyone know if butter cab requires additional build time?
I believe earlier in thread spooky said it would not take longer.
another quick question. At first the game played great, but after about 20 games or so, I started noticing intermittent issues with the right flipper(s). Most often with the lower. But occasionally with the upper as well. Some times they will not respond to button presses. Or if you will be holding the flipper it will drop and hit again. Or sometimes only half hit. It has gotten to where it happens on nearly every ball. If you hit the button a few times it goes back to normal. I checked the leaf switched to see if there was any dust or anything blocking the connection, but after that I figured I should consult the experts.
Quoted from brerspidur:another quick question. At first the game played great, but after about 20 games or so, I started noticing intermittent issues with the right flipper(s). Most often with the lower. But occasionally with the upper as well. Some times they will not respond to button presses. Or if you will be holding the flipper it will drop and hit again. Or sometimes only half hit. It has gotten to where it happens on nearly every ball. If you hit the button a few times it goes back to normal. I checked the leaf switched to see if there was any dust or anything blocking the connection, but after that I figured I should consult the experts.
Second paragraph...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/76#post-5706474
--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com
BSE 640 checking in. I was disappointed that I could not pull the trigger back in December, but am happy that I was able to snag a spot recently. Sure it'll be probably next summer before I get mine, but sounds like I'll be in good company waiting with everyone else near the end of the run. Happy to see that Spooky is taking feedback to heart and makes me feel good knowing that they keep striving to make each and every machine they build better than the one beforehand. My TNA has been rock solid ever since it came home from the factory and I am eager to see how Rick & Morty improves on that. Keep up the great work!
One day I hope to pick one of these up as it looks like an awesome game with phenomenal theme integration, coding and rules.
I really hope issues like dodgy flippers and shooter lane mech gets improved though.
Game is shaping up to be a classic, that is for sure.
Newport
I've been hard on the shooter lane design, mine has plagued me since I got it. I've spent hours tweaking it but today I think I finally found the issue. The left hand wooden side rail, between the shooter lane and the right outlane was positioned too far to the right, so the ball could just about touch it as it was shot up the shooter lane. I repositioned it today just a mm or 2 to the left and now have a consistent ball speed. I still think its a bit of a weak design, particularly the last few inches of the wire form but at least now with a consistent ball speed I can get the ball on the playfield properly.
Quoted from xfassa:Just received the options email...#139.
Anyone know if butter cab requires additional build time?
Luke recently said butter cabs are in stock and do not cause delay. My #81 was butter cab.
Some early impressions on the latest builds -- I received mine Tuesday:
Build quality is really nice. The decals are the by far the nicest I've seen from any manufacturer.
I have had no issues with the spinner shot not hitting cleanly. They seem to have adjusted the angle/position of the rail, drilling new spots for the screws, rather than just removing the screws as they said they were doing earlier. I can't see whether they made any adjustments at the top of the spinner shot at the diverter, but I have also had no balls rattling up there.
The garage shot was still pretty clunky. Didn't look like they made any adjustments to it from earlier builds. I spent about an hour making @troz's suggested modifications to the ball guide along the garage shot and now it shoots like butter. I highly recommend making the modification (see post #2300 of this thread). The most difficult part was getting the plastics off. It seems like Spooky drilled the holes for the plastics one size too small - they are stuck on there so tightly, at first I thought they must have been glued down. Took a lot of force to remove them, but luckily I didn't crack the plastic. I hope Spooky starts making the holes in the plastics a bit bigger, so we don't have to worry about cracking plastics when servicing the machine.
It's a beautiful machine. I'm glad Spooky is listening to customers and making adjustments. Well done!
**EDIT: Not sure what I was looking at the first time. There are actually two tabs on the spinner rail that aren't screwed in. The rail has no flex to it though. The arc of the rail has been changed. The holes in the empty tabs don't line up at all with the original screw holes. Sorry for the confusion in my post originally.
Quoted from Krsmith9:They seem to have adjusted the angle/position of the rail, drilling new spots for the screws, rather than just removing the screws as they said they were doing earlier.
Where are the new screws now, do you have photos?
Quoted from Krsmith9:I tried to just do exactly what troz did. Check out the photos in post 2300.
I think he means the position of the screws in the spinner loop lane. If they are indeed screwed down. Glad to hear the loop shoots well.
Quoted from Manic:I think he means the position of the screws in the spinner loop lane. If they are indeed screwed down. Glad to hear the loop shoots well.
Oh wow. I looked again and there are two screws that aren’t in. Not sure what I was looking at before... I’ll edit my original post. There is no flex to it though. The rail is bent to different angle. The tabs aren’t close to where the original holes are.
Quoted from Krsmith9:Some early impressions on the latest builds -- I received mine Tuesday:
Build quality is really nice. The decals are the by far the nicest I've seen from any manufacturer.
I have had no issues with the spinner shot not hitting cleanly. They seem to have adjusted the angle/position of the rail, drilling new spots for the screws, rather than just removing the screws as they said they were doing earlier. I can't see whether they made any adjustments at the top of the spinner shot at the diverter, but I have also had no balls rattling up there.
The garage shot was still pretty clunky. Didn't look like they made any adjustments to it from earlier builds. I spent about an hour making troz's suggested modifications to the ball guide along the garage shot and now it shoots like butter. I highly recommend making the modification (see post #2300 of this thread). The most difficult part was getting the plastics off. It seems like Spooky drilled the holes for the plastics one size too small - they are stuck on there so tightly, at first I thought they must have been glued down. Took a lot of force to remove them, but luckily I didn't crack the plastic. I hope Spooky starts making the holes in the plastics a bit bigger, so we don't have to worry about cracking plastics when servicing the machine.
It's a beautiful machine. I'm glad Spooky is listening to customers and making adjustments. Well done!**edit I don’t know what I was looking at the first time. There are two tabs that aren’t screwed down. The rail has no flex to it though. It’s been bent at a different arc. The original holes don’t line up with the empty tabs at all.
Quoted from Manic:I think he means the position of the screws in the spinner loop lane. If they are indeed screwed down. Glad to hear the loop shoots well.
Here’s the current angle of shot. Can’t get a good pic of where the empty tabs line up without taking stuff apart. The rail is pushed back further from where it used to be.
8D8C21BF-7227-4EA2-8433-53A572C36FF8 (resized).jpegQuoted from Krsmith9:Here’s the current angle of shot. Can’t get a good pic of where the empty tabs line up without taking stuff apart. The rail is pushed back further from where it used to be.
[quoted image]
Ah, so the inner orbit has the same holes, they just aren’t screwed in. This was the original change they mentioned of removing the two screws. I had thought you were saying the inner orbit is screwed into a completely different spot.
Quoted from jonesjb:Ah, so the inner orbit has the same holes, they just aren’t screwed in. This was the original change they mentioned of removing the two screws. I had thought you were saying the inner orbit is screwed into a completely different spot.
That’s what I thought when I first looked at it, but I was wrong. That said, the screw removal doesn’t appear to just be to “add some flex to the rail” as I had heard it before. The arc of the rail has definitely changed. It’s now pushed back beyond the artwork and if you look where the original holes are, the are well in front of where the empty tabs line up. They just didn’t drill new holes to fasten down the new arc. The rail is solid without those two tabs screwed down.
Quoted from Krsmith9:That’s what I thought when I first looked at it, but I was wrong. That said, the screw removal doesn’t appear to just be to “add some flex to the rail” as I had heard it before. The arc of the rail has definitely changed. It’s now pushed back beyond the artwork and if you look where the original holes are, the are well in front of where the empty tabs line up. They just didn’t drill new holes to fasten down the new arc. The rail is solid without those two tabs screwed down.
Yep that will work. Pushed back just behind the art Definitely changes and drastically improves that loop shot. Way cool company to take feedback and fine tune assembly. These games are great
Quoted from Krsmith9:That’s what I thought when I first looked at it, but I was wrong. That said, the screw removal doesn’t appear to just be to “add some flex to the rail” as I had heard it before. The arc of the rail has definitely changed. It’s now pushed back beyond the artwork and if you look where the original holes are, the are well in front of where the empty tabs line up. They just didn’t drill new holes to fasten down the new arc. The rail is solid without those two tabs screwed down.
Yes this is what had been described to me by Spooky so your comment threw me off. Glad they did it this way and kept the tabs on the rail "just in case" someone wants to tinker.
Awesome company with awesome people. The only company that seems to be able to easily navigate the minefield that is a pinball forum 
Congrats on the machine you lucky SOB. I've got some painful waiting until the low 300's.
.
Quoted from Kevlar:mine was a cigarette paper away[quoted image]
I like your unit of measurement.
When the game actually ships do they send you a tracking number? Number 115 here and just want to make sure it’s not going to materialize while I’m out of town or something. 
Quoted from TigerLaw:When the game actually ships do they send you a tracking number? Number 115 here and just want to make sure it’s not going to materialize while I’m out of town or something.
Yes you will receive a tracking number!
First impression of the game on location (at Pinball Lounge in Oviedo Florida).
Very nice looking and well put together, great lights, sound was not turned up loud but I could hear it ok. The LCD looked fine to me.
I was able to make the shots ok except the direct shot to the portal (left orbit) was only able to make 2-3 times and seemed as if it wasn't going to make it to the top as if the flipper power was too low? A very tight window for that shot almost as if the shot is harder than all other shots in any pinball machine I have ever played. I almost want to say the machine had to be set up incorrectly because the shot was that difficult I did not look to check where the flipper was aligned which may have been the issue. Also could have been a learning curve because I didn't make the shot at all the first 2 games and made it maybe 3 times on the last 3 games.
The right ramp was wobbly/flimsy and the exit of that ramp was not smooth with a bounce back up before exit. I am not sure if this is typical but hopefully there is a solution that people will detail what can be adjusted.
I didn't get too far in the game but had a lot of fun started a few dimensions and a few adventures only 4-5 games. Didn't get the magnetic save to work but that was due to my slow reactions.
Quoted from rai:The right ramp was wobbly/flimsy and the exit of that ramp was not smooth with a bounce back up before exit. I am not sure if this is typical but hopefully there is a solution that people will detail what can be adjusted.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
I added a couple of pieces of beer seal foam to my right ramp which makes it flow much smoother but I'd be welcome to a more elegant solution if any molders have any ideas?
20200627_120626 (resized).jpgQuoted from MikeS:I added a couple of pieces of beer seal foam to my right ramp which makes it flow much smoother but I'd be welcome to a more elegant solution if any molders have any ideas?[quoted image]
Hot Wheels has added crash pads at the end of their ramps however, spookys ramps are more rounded than square.
hotW (resized).JPGhotW2 (resized).JPGQuoted from MikeS:I added a couple of pieces of beer seal foam to my right ramp which makes it flow much smoother but I'd be welcome to a more elegant solution if any molders have any ideas?[quoted image]
I plan on trying something like this, a clear desk blotter cut into a 1 inch x 8 inch strip that I bend a as a ‘U’ around the base. What do others think?
https://www.amazon.com/Leffora-Protector-Waterproof-Protective-Transparent/dp/B07WFM68YD
5956ECDF-8989-4B45-BA63-73E35D17133D (resized).jpegJust got my game, #104. What a great game! Very impressed thus far. Looks great, amazingly creative layout, top notch theme integration. I am looking forward to more modes being added.
Thus far, I've adjusted the Hold strength of the lower flippers, as they were getting easily knocked down by the ball. I've adjusted the monitor setting to darken the black. And I increased the flipper strength of all flippers (+5 from their defaults). I leveled the game at 6.9 degrees, shooting for a bit steeper than the default, which is the way all of my games are set up. Has anyone made any other adjustments that they recommend?
I have heard that there are some recommended changes that make the left orbit (garage) shot easier? That would be nice. It's such a cool shot in theory, but almost impossible to hit.
Apparently, I posted this in the wrong thread initially. Now, it looks like I need to start reading through this thread. 80 pages! Appreciate any head start as far as which changes are the most important to focus on right away.
So I hadn't opened this thread in a month... 1000 frickin posts! (oh no!? 1000 seems high)
I slowly read through while downing coffee and french toast, sausage and eggs...
What a happy thread!!!
-mof
A couple of things I've noticed and appreciated. I love that if you hold Start and do a restart, it talks trash to you and sends you to Butt Land. I love that they included apron cards. Spooky previously took the approach that you had to make your own, and it was a pain.
Quoted from Russell:A couple of things I've noticed and appreciated. I love that if you hold Start and do a restart, it talks trash to you and sends you to Butt Land. I love that they included apron cards. Spooky previously took the approach that you had to make your own, and it was a pain.
Yours came with Apron cards? How about spare leds? Mine had neither. Just saying.
Quoted from MikeS:I added a couple of pieces of beer seal foam
What is beer seal foam? Google just gives me pics of foamy beer.
Quoted from BillySastard:What is beer seal foam? Google just gives me pics of foamy beer.
Pretty sure we can come up with a more elegant approach granted I have not observed an issue myself.
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsballygottlieb-beer-seal.html
Quoted from Yelobird:Pretty sure we can come up with a more elegant approach granted I have not observed an issue myself.
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsballygottlieb-beer-seal.html
I took a quick video that shows the right ramp return with the beer seal in place and then i removed it to show the difference. Its pretty drastic.
Quoted from MikeS:I took a quick video that shows the right ramp return with the beer seal in place and then i removed it to show the difference. Its pretty drastic.
Yep that’s a good bounce. Mine does nothing like that! Don’t recall, how steep is your playfield set to?? Seems like a single foam pad at the end would be enough to absorb the bounce.
Quoted from MikeS:I took a quick video that shows the right ramp return with the beer seal in place and then i removed it to show the difference. Its pretty drastic.
I agree, mine doesn’t have that bounce. What pitch is yours set at?
Quoted from dnapac:I agree, mine doesn’t have that bounce. What pitch is yours set at?
I'm at 6.9. I wonder what's different then?
Quoted from MikeS:I took a quick video that shows the right ramp return with the beer seal in place and then i removed it to show the difference. Its pretty drastic.
I agree you did fix it however must be something wrong as the machine I played also had too much bounce back.
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