I wish! People were pleading for that for ages. Finally got some schematics for the Warden board in Scooby-Doo, so they are making progress, but do not seem to want to put any effort into documentation for previous games. I'll see if I can snap a pic of that opto board in by game in a bit so you can at least compare.

Yeah, who needs schematics or a manual? Call me old school but I hate not having them for my Spooky games.

In my case, I didnt trace the wires but did rely on the RICK OPTO BOARD sticker.. All 4 of my malfunctioning sensors were the white connectors on the same board.
I have my new opto board from PinballLife arriving tomorrow. My bet is that the board is bad.

What really gets me is that I also had to replace the Counter Board near the scoop, as when one of the ribbon cables was plugged in, it shorted out the LED board from Multimorphic (and took out lots of LEDs). Unfortunately, I first tried to replace the multimorphic board.. but at least I have a spare of those now.

Anyway, on my machine with the Counter LED and potentially this Opto board going bad.. Both boards made by Anarchy. Im not sure if they have good Quality control, or if its just bad luck for me.

I'll replace my opto board tomorrow, hopefully problem solved and I'll let you know the results.

New opto board did not fix the issue for me. Next I'll try swapping the Multimorphic board with another one on the game, and see if the randomness moves to another input set.

I reached out to Spooky via email on Tuesday asking for some help diagnosing my opto issue and haven’t heard back. How long do they usually take to respond? Does emailing their support work or is calling better?

From what i've been reading they're fairly busy with scooby problems and tech with that. May get told they're looking at it for you, but just don't

I was figuring that it would be an easy, quick answer for one of their techs. Seems unlikely that this would be the first R&M with this issue or similar.

It's almost like companies shouldn't release games until they're finished....

I may feel that way but I think that ship has sailed. The model of having a fully vetted product (with a 200 page manual) went the way of the EM dodo. Ah, the Silicon Valley approach... launch a product with a solid idea/concept and 20% of the software/code. Yup, I'm "old".

What are the current Scooby problems?

Just from a bit of other people that there's been a pile of QC issues and problems,

Oh geez.

Hi, Is this the dead battery error? Regards

0084AD7F-1571-49A9-BCD8-4364435C9750 (resized).jpeg

that sure looks like it. Hopefully you'll get it back up and running quick with a new battery.

After reaching out to Spooky and getting no response after a week, I decided to try to track down the source of my misfiring optos myself. Since there are multiple copies of the little Multimorphic boards under the playfield, I started by swapping my suspect opto board with a good one.

After swapping the opto boards, the problem persisted (in the same location), so next I swapped the Multimorphic SW-16 board controlling the misbehaving optos with another one (being sure to change the dip switch settings). This made the problem move to a different set of optos. This gives me confidence that I found the culprit. I ordered a new board from pinballlife today. Hopefully that takes care of it. Pretty disappointed in the utter lack of response from Spooky (not to mention total lack of technical documentation).

Also not really a fan of these boards with tiny surface mounted components. Whatever fried on that board would’ve probably been an easy in house fix on an older game with through pinned boards (assuming there were decent schematics to help trace down the failed component).

Yeah, I got a SW-16 with a bad input (pop bumper) and had to get a new one, not setup for surface mount work right now. At least the SMT stuff keeps costs down and the board was only $40.

Yea I swapped my SW 16s around as well after replacing the opto board. So far the problem has not come up on the new switch locations for me. Not sure why it would be so prevalent in one location but not at all in another.

Out of the box my R&M has not worked properly, I called Spooky several times with no help! The pin ends play, reboots, or continues to put extra balls into play. This pin has been a total pain in the ass. If anyone has any info for me please share.

Thank you Rick

Spooky pins can be glitchy. Start by carefully checking for loose connectors under the playfield and in the backbox. Also make sure you have the correct number of balls in the game. When it’s working, it’s a fantastic pin!

Out of the box? How long have you had it?

As mentioned, the first thing to do is check and hand 'tighten' every connector in the backbox and under the PF. Theirs do not seem to stay put, or the hot glue comes loose and eventually the connectors.

You've updated to the latest (or close to the latest)?

Also make sure that all the microswitches do not have their mounting hardware tightened too hard, especially at the ball trough. Making sure all the switches work using the switch test is also a good idea.

So, I put on precision flippers and the left flipper won’t get tight. It feels tight, but as soon as one flip happens it starts to creep and after 10 flips it’s straight up. I’ve even replaced the plunger/clamp with the one from pinballife…any ideas?

When I put mine in my right flipper was slipping after a few games. I finally just completely replaced all the parts but the coil and its been good since. But, I think it was cleaning and sanding (very lightly) the flipper shaft at the end before I set it into the new clamp. Basically I think the BW clamps used in these games are garbage and will sometimes not work out of the box.

For my next Precision flipper replacement I will definitely use his new keyed shaft and clamp.

Ya, I did all the above. Unless someone has a better idea…a keyed shaft is in my future. Unfortunately, they are not available right now.

I'm pretty sure that I have 3 or 4 keyed shafts extra, bought too many accidentally. Don't have the clamps though.

Bummer. I’d be interested, but I’d need the clamp too. Anybody out there with an extra clamp? My poor R&M has been down over a month.

Have you tightened it so much that the two sides of the pawl are touching? If so, I had the same issue and fixed it by pulling the pawl out, spreading the clamp end and grinding some material from each side, then reinstalling with a new nut/bolt.

The clamps are one time use from my experience. I had to get the keyed clamps for mine. Perfect now.

Actually, I got a new clamp because I thought of this.

I’ve…

1) Tightened and retightened about 100
Times…no exaggeration here.
2) scuffed up the shaft end that interacts with the clamp…with sandpaper.
3) bought new parts for the flipper mech (mainly the clamp and coil shaft).
4) removed the bushing and washed both the flipper shaft and bushing in a solution of water and Dawn detergent to try remove all oil. Thorough rinse and dry. Reassembled….

All, no dice. A keyed clamp and shaft was a thought, but they don’t have any…so I’ve requested a new bushing and flipper shaft and WILL NOT put oil on this one. I really don’t know what else to do…any ideas are welcome. I miss my R&M.

I bought a new pawl first, too, but I still had to tighten it so far that the two sides crushed together. If the two sides are touching, try doing what I suggested. Hope you get it up and running soon!

Thanks…I’ll take a look and make sure that adjustment doesn’t need to be done…I’d be so happy if that’s all that’s needed.

Instead of sandpaper, maybe try a metal file? I used those cheap harbor freight metal files after cleaning the shafts with rubbing alcohol. Works every time for me.

Have a set of calipers? Wondering if by chance your precision shaft is slighter smaller/out of spec and it just isn't possible to get it tight.

And awaaaay we go! One bad sw-16-v2 heading to another dimension. Toggle one dip switch. Swap good for bad. All fixed.

IMG_2929 (resized).jpeg

Got my replacement part(s) for the underside of ship. A.J. rules. Thanks Spooky!

20230609_162629 (resized).jpg

Hey All,
Been a RnM owner for a few months now. Bought game 373 BSE used around 1,400 plays. Game plays great as of now but it kicks my ass. I’m a die hard fan so this one is bolted.
Cheers

Welcome Aboard!

Congratulations on getting a fantastic, well integrated game with the IP but is a tough game. I'm still a mediocre player after 2 years but it's my favorite game still.

Is it possible to have a spare part from Pinball Life if available ?
or the print file is welcome !

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4611728
Would need some measurements of the original but I'm willing to bet someone could make the necessary adjustments.

Is there a software option to disable the coil that moves the ship? It seems so unnecessary to me most of the time.

I think you can lower the power.

I was thinking about just disconnecting the coil.

The same solenoid raises the post in the middle of the Danesi lock, so you don't want to disable it.

Do not disable the coil!

Hilarious.

You can also shorten that shaft pretty quickly. Keeping the actual movement to a min.

I've recently noticed that when either side of the ship loop is lit for mode shots or megaseeds and the drop targets are down, the shots through the loop don't award whatever they're lit for. I'm pretty sure that *wasn't* the case previously, but I can't say for sure.

I checked in switch test and all four of the loop optos register correctly. Anybody have any idea what's going on here?

Troubleshooting my right orbit switch. It never registered, so I installed an MRS switch. It now registers in switch test mode with my magnetic tool, but not the ball when shot via right. 1/10 times in switch test mode it registers via spinner loop, but never in game. I thought it was the rail, but I loosened it and it made no difference. Thoughts?

Video here -

While I installed a MRS switch in the inner loop but not the outer one, my switch has worked flawlessly like yours. Have you tried reversing the outer loop switch to see if a little more distance from the metal rail or post might help? I found the orientation of the switch made a difference in other instances.

Message sent

I often have this issue. I suspect it’s because the switch isn’t high enough and gravity pulls it below from the playfield surface that the ball rolls on.