I don't think there is a PDF, but there are a few rules explanations and walkthroughs on YouTube. To get higher scores multipliers are key, at least in my experience, and the Megaseeds are the best way to do this. However, if you can activate enough Meeseeks to set off that multiball you get points for each blue lit shot, as well as you get the "Jerry bonus" at the end of the MB is you can hit the JERRY target toward the bottom of the family targets. Other things you can do to increase your score dramatically: complete adventures with GREEN stamps, when you fill the card each GREEN stamp is a multiplier on the chosen adventure (rick potion seems to get me the MOST points). Also, you should try for as many dimensions as possible (using the UR flipper if possible for most megaseeds). When you are in a dimension you can hit the family targets to enable mystery award and if you hit it during the dimension you can get "shake megaseed tree" and get even more.

There are endless ways to increase your score, but these are some of the techniques I use.

Thanks, that is helpful.

Seems like megaseeds are main way to high scores.

Does the multiplier interact with the megaseeds when both lit?

Think I've posted this before, but it's worth reminding people of. Great tutorial from one of the rule designers and pinball extraordinaire.

It is a great video and reminded me where I had seen those rule cards.

Is there anywhere they can be printed off?

Right when you get Multiball, smash that meeseeks target a bunch quick.

FOr me - main scoring is.

Hit floobecrank early, lock the balls.
Try to get into a dimension, either path left or right.

THEN - Start the adventure. & MB together
Smash Meeseeks

Repeat.

I just activated *upper right flipper is controlled by left* dimension during the second phase of Scary Terry... It was a frustrating combination!

The ALL Flippers / Any Button Dimension can straight up wreck some modes if you don't change dimensions fast enough.

So, my wife thinks that the scoop is supposed to be a guys butthole…the horseshoe is the guy bent over/his legs are the loop. Since it’s R&M…maybe…she insists she’s right…

Very interesting…….

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After installing the most recent code, does anyone else have a rogue topper that is running when it shouldn't be after its lit for the first time? Running when portal is unlit, during bonus count, but shuts off at the end of the game. Next game it starts when the portal is lit, but continues to run again.

Yes! Finally confirmation it’s the code…I love the new code and how Eric revisited it…but yes, my topper has a mind of its own.

I also experienced the topper running when it shouldn't. It stopped running when I started Mr Meeseek's multiball but then started running again for no reason.

I'm also had a bug where the pin seems to lose track of one ball which never happened prior to the update.

Disconnected mine, didn't realise there was a bug.

Okay, I would HIGHLY recommend precision-flip halos to anyone with R&M. Huge difference - zero issues getting up the left ramp now. And in a game with tight shots like this, a small increase in precision makes a big dif. Plus, being able to quickly try different angles is great here...

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I have seen these and they are tempting, but I have a few questions. First, did you just order the "three flipper kit with shafts" that their store page recommends? They also have an option with new bushings, do you think that is required? I do have the "x-spacers" installed in my game, not the replacement bushings from Spooky.

In your, or anyone here, opinion, do you think I'd need to remove the spacers and put in the new bushings? Or, will I be able to install the new shafts and flippers without having to take out the spacers and replace bushings. Either way, it wouldn't hurt for me to pull the game apart and give it a good cleaning, but I'd rather have the right set on hand when I do it, I don't think I could go more than one day without playing R&M.

Thanks, John

I think I'd definitely get the bushings and ditch the spacers. Based on others feedback in the precision flips thread, the bigger part of improvement in play comes from the metal bushings than the flippers.

I will say this game was the biggest PITA to install of the three I've done, primarily because the spooky/Williams style linkages are a pain to get tightened.

I've installed them in mine and other than having to use a new flipper rebuild kit to finish one of the flippers it was easy and the results are amazing. The game plays night and day better after this mod. Highly recommended.
Regards,
Al

Get the bushings with the flipper kit and ditch the spacers. The full kit works together so nicely - you won’t regret it.

This was brought up in beta testing as it would go on and not shut off at all, and I believe Eric put in a way to ensure that the topper power is killed at the end of the game. I too notice my topper still sometimes stays on when it shouldn't on the newest code, thankfully it does shut off at the end of the game now.

Hey Guys! Just wanted to close the loop with this. Turns out as many predicted my CPU/hard drive was corrupted. Big shout out to AJ over at Spooky for sending me a replacement from one of their own machines. Sadly the replacement was glitchy (game would pause often/restart randomly), so Spooky then sent me a brand new CPU and hard drive and I'm back in business. No glitches, no restarts and no strange messages upon bootup.

Great customer service and technical support! Thanks again AJ and Spooky!

Can you detail the difference you've seen? I have dialed in game and feel more could be done to smooth out the shots.

could someone kindly remind me where the topper gets plugged in? its been off the machine for overhead space issues. appreciate a photo! thanks!

edit: found it hiding behind the backbox inside speaker hole! thanks for nothing guys…lol

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I currently have these on my JP and have a full set waiting for GZ And RnM installation. The feel of these is quite impressive and the power transfer via removal of slop in the linkage is a game changer. Full RnM review on the link below (not mine) as are several other machine reviews in the thread. I can follow up next week after my install but after adding them to my JP I have decided to replace all flippers in my ‘keeper ‘ machines with these.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/review-precision-pinball-products-cnc-flipper-system/page/23#post-7215738

I have a few left over figures , pm me if interested

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Mr Poopy Butthole? I just wanted to type that

Has anyone put the Precision Flipper System on Rick and Morty? I'm thinking of buying some, but wondering if I should go with ghost or standard for this specific pin? My inclination is to go with standard, but Rick and Morty is kinda sci-fi so the ghost ones might look better.

What did you go with (and colors)?

Had some posts about this a few pages back. One person at least tried and highly recommended them. I am out of town, but plan to order the full set when I get home next week.

I'm planning on the ghost type in green. Make sure you tell them it's a R&M because you need the shortened bushings. I'll be removing my x-spacers and stock bushings (apparently the biggest impact) as well.

I’m throwing a set on next week. I have them on a few games and I really like the feel.

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I'm thinking silver ghosts might match the wires on the artwork at the bottom. Although, I don't think ghost would look good on the upper flipper since the flipper is supposed to have Pickle Rick hidden.

Otherwise, I might go with Blue solids.

I am going to make another batch of the R&M Blue Crystal mod next weekend. If anyone is interested, just send me a PM to get on the list. Thanks!

Note: Despite inflation, I am still selling the mod for $55 shipped.
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Has anyone replaced the led in the pop bumper?

Yes, mine went out quite a while ago and it's a pretty common part to break. That LED takes a beating. Pretty sure there is a pinned post in the thread about this. But, basically order the replacement part and an extra tiny rubber to help avoid the issue going forward.

The replacement isn't hard, but is a PITA. You'll need to clip some zip ties on the underside and pull the light up through the top of bumper. Then de-solder the broken light, put the rubber inside under where the light goes, and solder the new one on. Use some microfiber towels around the working area to protect the precious playfield. Once reinstalled put in new zip ties under the PF and you should be good.

Thanks! That’s what I was afraid of. Getting better at my soldering (but it sometimes looks kinda rough. I was hoping it was just a connector under the playfield.

If anyone wants to know, I had to figure out what they did to the ship to get colored light (mine stopped working). I didn’t have to replace the ship, but you can get one on Amazon. Unscrew the 3 tiny screws under the ship to get inside (top clam shells off the bottom). There is a led board that has a connector…like all the other leds. Easy to replace…mine was just a bad connection. Most irritating part was that you need to take the ship off the main plastic…leave it on the plastic hinge.

Halos make a huge improvement for this game. Left ramp outta a catch is no prob now. Look killer with GITD titans, too.

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Ordered mine this morning and can't wait to try them out!

Are these precision flippers having any effect on flipper fade?

Or maybe people have turned up the power or used fans to counter fade?

I had to turn my power down quite a bit after installing them, so it has to help. Less power going to the coils=less heat.

I usually play about a half hour at a time, haven't gotten around to putting fans on yet but haven't appreciated any fade with the halos set at 28 on both sides. Fans will never make flippers better though; they just keep them from getting worse. These actively improve power and accuracy.

To piggyback on some earlier posts I'm too lazy to go back and find to quote, I've got my topper motor disabled (noise, I usually just play alone), but i have noticed the lights firing off at inappropriate times. Is this a universal bug??

I realised last night that I have not seen Pickle Rick mode for what seems like about 100 games. I know it doesn't come up often but I'm sure I would have gotten it by now even by accident, because I have no trouble hitting the garage shot. Are people on the latest code still seeing this mode?

Come to think of it, I have not seen the Pickle Rick mode since I upgraded, but could just be a coincidence?

I've seen pickle rick in regular game play and I'm on the latest code update. It doesn't come up for at least the first two adventures you go on (3rd or later). I think there might also be a stamps requirement. So, if you set your game up to start with fewer than 4 stamps (default) you'll possibly need to complete a few modes and earn stamps before Pickle Rick will show up.

Yes, I definitely played it yesterday and am up to date.

Pickle Rick is in there and pops up as normal.

Have noticed quite a bit of Random Topper Activity during gameplay.

Really want to get my hands on some of those Halos for my R&M and Ultraman Machines.

The excess topper activity occurs if you lose your ball during certain adventures while the garage shot is lit up. The topper won't kick off and then stays on until the game ends or until you charge your portal gun again and change dimensions.

I got a set of the precision flippers, along with the bushings, but I have a question before I proceed. I installed the X-Spacer mod before the new bushings were made available, and they are in the game now. Precision said the new bushings are the proper height and I can ditch the spacers.

But, I got the PF up and was all set to do the job when luckily it dawned on me that the spacers required longer screws into the PF. I clearly remember being very paranoid I'd break through the PF doing that. Anyway, I saved the original wood screws, but the bag I had them in has two distinct sizes.

Can anyone confirm or verify which of these screws I should use when I rip out the spacers and put the mechanism back directly on the PF. Attached are some pictures with my (dead battery) calipers as well as a side by side. Is it possible some are supposed to be longer than others? If so do we know which ones?

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You are going to want to return to the original shorter screws.

Have a pack of flat toothpicks handy to use them as crutches in the holes and they should snug up nice and firm.

been forever, but weren't half the screws in the mounts longer, and half shorter? I recall having to mark them when putting spacers in.

I was thinking the shorter ones too, and am most definitely concerned about the condition of those screw holes. I have toothpicks and wood glue if their messed up. Which I realize will make this an even bigger job. I was hoping to just unscrew them and slide the spacers out then put in the old screws. Doing wood surgery isn't gonna make it easier.

This is what I thought too, I could have sworn in the instructions for the spacers it was adamant about which were longer. I don't have those instructions on paper so I don't know. Hopefully someone remembers, or worst case maybe I'll call spooky tomorrow.