Even better. Please share results of how you go once adjusting.

Dude, your 4 year old kid is playing better than guys in half the other R&M videos we’ve seen recently!

Nice one!

rd

I adjusted it a bit after talking to Whysnow I'm not sure if i made it better or worse tbh. I didn't play many games on it after adjusting though so I'll see what happens. I tried to close up the metal guide, but that didn't work as well, so I opened it back up again. I also removed the next screw going up the rail and tried to increase that curve a bit more. I might have kinked it too much. Prior to adjusting, if I could get a clean shot, it would loop around very quickly. I could get 2 loops, then a 3rd whatever shot, because at that point it was going too fast.

I could probably hit it 1/3 of the time, but again, I'm attributing that to my playing skill.

Conversely, on my XMLE, I can hit the Storm shot probably 3/4 of the time, the Rogue shot is probably most similar and I can hit that maybe 2/3 of the time.

bust out the slow-mo on the camera and see what impact your adjustments are making. That is the best way for me to better understand what my tweaks are doing.

That was my next step if I feel motivated enough

Not advisable to bend the rails; they'll never be the same shape again. The 'quick fix' is to pull out screw #2 and screw #3 after the first front screw. Gives the rail a bit more give so the ball doesn't bounce off as much.

does somebody have the ring sizes? i thought posted them but cant seem to find it.

I wasn't "bending" them per se, I was trying to introduce more curve to them, and as a result, might have introduced a little kink. I will remove screw #3 as the next step.

Will there be a more long term solution for playfields yet to be built such as adjusting the orientation and placement of how the metal bits (tabs and screws) are put into the playfield?

It would be great if Spooky explored this possibility. What do others think?

I’m pretty sure they already said the new builds would already have this addressed.

I think it was on a post or i heard it on a podcast?

Spooky Luke or Scott i think

Sorry if it is already been shown somewhere. Can someone show a pic of screw #2 and screw #3 that should be removed for a smoother shot?
Thanks in advance.

Seems like with the break in production right now it might be a good time to take a look at factory solutions.

The tabs missing screws are what people are calling screw #2 and screw #3.

Screw #1 is the one at the end of the rail that has a slot in it that allows you to adjust how big the opening is for that shot.

I opened mine up (pull rail down, towards player) and it shots pretty smooth. Some suggest closing the opening more (move rail up, away from player) to increase curve of the rail.

If you closed it all the way then the rail edge is exposed and ball can hit the sharp edge head on which might chew up the ball over time. If you open it up by moving it down, the edge of the rail is protected by the nearby rubber post.

If you look at the way I have the rail set now it follows the curve of the playfield art much more closely than it did before adjustment.

I wonder if the playfield art was draw such that the rail was intended to follow its curve?

20200322_110159 (resized).jpg

Thanks for the very clear description. Are you just leaving the guide rail as is? ... with the screw #s 2 and 3 removed? Thanks

This is more of the (slightly over accentuated) bend I would move to.

The basic idea is a desire to provide more curve in the area of the rail where a ball will hit with a 'sloppy shot'
This basically helps you translate that horizontal movement into vertical movement to carry the momentum of the ball around the inner loop.
again, over done in that red line, but you get the idea I think.

I personally would make the front of the rail line up with that side of the post on entrance. The ball guide is intended to... well... guide the ball
Morty Rail bend 1 (resized).jpg

So far yes.

It seems pretty solid even though 2 screws are out. Some argue that the lack of those screws allow the rail to have some "give" to it. Not sure if that makes much if a difference or not.

If I put the screws back in it would require new holes since the adjusted position moves it far enough that the old screw holes cant be used.

Wouldn't moving the rail that much require some rail bending which Eric said to not do ?

Probably a stupid question or it has been addressed before (or both) but did the machine come with the target decals on it or do you have to order them as an add-on? I noticed they are in the add-on list but wasn't sure if they are truly extras or not. Thanks.

following up.

The green lines show the initial sweet spot width on my route game.
The blue lines show the sweet spot width post adjustment.

Again, this is all just stylized... but hopefully helps anyone making and adjustment think about the geometry, physics, and maintained inertia of the ball dynamics. Small tweaks can make a big difference. This goes for every pinball machine!

Morty Rail bend 1 (resized).jpg

Aren’t there tabs that stick vertically into the playfield too, under the rail guide? I haven’t looked up close, but thought I saw them from the images. Whysnow can you please confirm?

Or is this something from a prototype?

Rick-and-Morty_tabs_small (resized).jpg

bending = bad. you dont want to kink your rail

changing the curvature = good (assuming this is the sort of tweak you like to make)

I also dont prescribe to everything Eric says

I'd be concerned with the rail unsecured at two points. Over time the ball impact will cause screw #1 (at the post) to loosen in the wood. If this is a better geometry, then Spooky should really make the change on future units, or maybe change the rail tab on screw #2 and #3 to be adjustable like on #1?

If it (the hole from the rail) gets to a new location that doesn’t interfere with old hole in wood, drill a small pilot hole in PF, and put a screw in, whoop Dee doo

Just want to take a moment and say good luck to Spooky and everyone else during these trying times.

Is yours moved far enough away from the post that that the edge of the metal rail can be hit by the ball? If so, is that something you'd be concerned about?

I known balls are easily replaced but I'd be worried about the balls getting nicked over time and scratching up the playfield before you replaced them. Or is the ball tougher than the rail so it won't get dinged up?

no

ball will hit post, not the end of guide rail

Yeah that's what I did on the rail just above the third flipper. Since it's totally buried under the plastics theres no risk and easily reversible.

I wanted to play the game a while with the inner loop rail in this position to make sure I liked it before putting screws back in a new position.

If i moved mine all the way up using the full adjustment of the existing slot it could hit the rail edge. That's why I backed it down a bit.

I joined the club late last night! Haven’t even played it yet! Can’t wait to get home from work today!

6ADBF814-33DB-4D99-8160-83B93BD66BAE (resized).jpeg

Congrats! What number are you out of curiosity?

It’s a two week old out of the box game. Second hand lol, but it’s #55

ohhh...so you're the one

Enjoy!!

(Edited)

Why is everything you ever post always have a snide, underlying tone to it? Can't you ever ask a question or look for an answer without putting in some sort of BS suggesting how you shouldn't have to be bothered to ask it? Your crap about it being a 8 or 9 grand and what you should or shouldn't have to do really does not need to be in there to get what you are looking for. I guess it is just how you are... Always need to add your crappy inflection into everything. It's no wonder that you have almost as many downvotes as you have upvotes.. Hell of a percentage you have earned yourself there. I know you could probably care less about that factor, but maybe just having a different outlook or approach to things might work wonders in regards to how people respond to you.

I didn’t think his comment was snide.

It's not directly, but the underlying tone is. Especially when it has been ongoing for quite some time. By itself it's not much (there has been way worse), but when looking at his overall work, it's hard not to read it. That exact same thing could have been asked or stated without the extra added commentary.

That could have simply said:

"Funny how 2 people on here are doing the opposite of one another. One is bending toward the payer and the other away. Can someone from Spooky put something on their website to explain what people need to do?"

That was all that was needed. Same thing accomplished. All of the rest that was added was just passive aggressive....

You are insufferable

I totally did

Thanks. I was trying to figure out what the highest number shipped is. Maybe 62?

All he does is Bitch.

I did not take the screws out yet(not near my game) but I did do what Hilton suggested by pushing it all the way up and it would have hit the metal and not the post so I put a regular (thicker) post rubber on so it does not make contact with metal. Im guessing im taking a little of the width away from the shot.
Thanks for all your good ideas guys. My game plays great! Just want it to be as good as it can be when we reopen our arcade. It really is a great game.

That's a great idea! I'll look through my spare parts bin and see if I have any if thicker post sleeves to try.

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Very Lionman

Engineer - over engineerin’

I understand your complaints, but you are leaving out a HUGE difference. Stern has been doing this for decades and is quite a bit bigger and expectations are higher for a company that has been around so long and continues to raise their prices and put less into their games. Spooky is newer at this. No need to be a dick about it, they are way more interactive than Stern.

Do you own and/or have one on order?