You almost need a key posts for key posts at this point, haha

Set to 8 card stamps, get a stab at Potion#9 with max of 2x multiplier instead of up to 9x .... the real challenge is to get to rick potion #9 second time with 9x adventure multiplier

Best of both worlds

Also, on the topper is a GearMotor, a gearbox mounted directly to the front of the motor. My gearbox there makes a little noise. Very quiet though compared to The Getaway. I don't have a problem with the topper making some noise. Also got Quieter with time/use.

Cheers

So I’ve been able to be reserved that my right flipper was weaker and I’ve been dealing with it for a while. Whatever. I can make the left ramp with a perfect shot which is basically been the way for years here.

I got replacement coil coolers from PinMonk, btw, thank you very much.
I went to install and noticed I was missing a coil stop Allen bolt holding it in. I got the install complete and played a game and I was just snapping that ball up the left ramp, lol. Fuckin missing bolt……. Saweeeet now!

Hello Everyone - first issue in quite a long time and I can't figure it out. All of a sudden the left drop target fails the pop up in test mode most of the time. If I run the test while the PF is lifted, it passes the test every time. I took it off and changed the drop target, the issue is still persisting. Everything looks identical to the right drop target, I can't figure out why it is not sticking in the up position after the solenoid fires. Note I have no problem with having it stay up if I push it with my finger.

The only way I was able to fix it was to turn the power up on the drop target coil from 20 to 25. It seems to be working after this fix but I don't consider this a permanent fix...or should I? Anyone else experience this issue? I didn't see anything in the key posts.

EDIT: Problem solved. Not sure why these are related but I noticed a wire was broken off of the left horseshoe entry opto. Could this have actually affected the drop target right next to it? After resoldering the wire to the opto I tested the drop target again and it was working perfectly. I even turned it back down to 20. What gives?

I ran into this, but intermittent as the opto solder joint was cracked.

Not sure if this is the same issue, but my drop target gets stuck, and looks like it's firing to drop it, but ends up jammed half way.

Any thoughts on how to fix?

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After owning this game for 21 months I hadn't been playing it as much as I used to but I managed to put up a new GC score this morning and was reminded of how awesome the game is! The only disappointing thing is that I tilted an 80 million ball (while in the last stage of Rick potion) while having 46 megaseeds so I lost out on a giant bonus. Still ended up with close to 200 million and made it to Rick Potion with only having the first two stamps spotted. Thanks again to Spooky and Eric for making one of my all time favorite games!

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That's pretty awesome! I'm still pleased with myself making Rick Potion after spotting six stamps! Lame on my part but was afraid I'd die long before ever seeing Potion #9. Planning to gradually cut back on my stamp spotting as my game play improved. Yeah, that'll be a while... Doubt I'll ever get to Potion #9 with only 2 stamps spotted at this rate.

4 is stock stamps right? I may knock mine down to 2 - I can get to Rick #9 very infrequently at 4.

4 is stock. If you knock it down to 2 you have the potential to bring in a 9x multiplier into Rick Potion vs. Being limited to 7x.

Still set at 0.

Still haven't seen #9.

I have mine set to stock and was having the most average game ever but for some reason every mystery award was spotting me a card stamp, so amazingly I got to RP 9. Hilariously, I had the worst RP9 score of all time (my 5 yr old niece chimp flipping would have done better) and the game was over. I think my final score was like 7.5 mil haha.

Lol! Sounds like me the few times I get there. CHOKE....

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I had a couple requests for pics of my flipper alignment. When I got my new bushings I lowered my flippers slightly which made the shots really open up. Although I am no longer able to backhand the right ramp.

For alignment take off the flipper rubbers on the lower flippers and put toothpicks in the holes to rest the flipper against and that's right where you want to be.

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Like Scott D had said, there was no intent at design to backhand the right ramp, but it came from factory able to.

Yeah even Rick didn’t bust my balls after the game was over because he heard me bashing myself at how god awful that was

Saw this today, for the modder who has everything

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I'm a bit of a flipper noob...I would like to adjust my flipper bat position. Which bolt do I loosen on the flipper to adjust the position? Anyone have a pic with a reference by chance?

I would warn...if you don't NEED to move your flippers, don't. Once you loosen those nuts, good luck keeping them tight.

I see. So you only recommend doing this if I'm doing a full rebuild. I'm shooting just fine today and have learned the shots with the existing position and don't have a problem. The shots are challenging but after 3K plays in this position I know them well. All are makeable. Sounds like I shouldn't be adjusting...do others agree with this?

Seems like they come from the factory in all different positions though.

Just depends on how off yours are and how precise you want them. You are going to hear people on both sides of the fence.

Mine are fine, they are in the same spot from the factory and look to be at a resting position higher than the last photo which is only slightly less than the thickness of the flipper rubber. I'll wait until I have to rebuild and at that time remove the X Spacers and adjust the bat position to be consistent with Scott's recommendation.

Just so I know, do you happen to know which bolt on the flipper mech to loosen to adjust the position?

Finally got around to replacing my second set of rubbers (Titan glow in the dark) with a new third set (Super-bands purple and translucent purple). I’m hoping these last a little longer. The post rubbers at the car scoop were absolutely shredded, barely hanging together on the backside of the post.

My R&M shows dirt like it’s a fashion statement!

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I'll tell you about my weird relationship with R&M. I've hated it (because it's a drainy clunky fucker, and I've had so many build issues, it was almost a full time job).

And I've loved it (because it's unique, it's addictive, it's perfectly simple in code, and it's the best theme integration ever).

So about a month ago, unsold it. But as I was waiting for the buyer to arrange funds and pick it up, I got cold feet, and I bought another one haha!

Now I have two in my game room, side by side, and I'll probably be holding onto mine for a while.

Play better

So are you able to tell the difference in build qualities between the two? Do they play a little different?

Impressive destruction. Have you done the flipper bushing replacement or flipper mech offset kit install? Just asking because of how far off centerline the dirt marks on the flipper rubbers are.

Very different. First thing I noticed was the left ramps were aligned differently on the pf, wireforms were different, and a bunch of other things. The feel of the flipper (strength, bounce, etc) is totally different two.

I have had other games in here side by side (Medieval Madness, LOTR, etc.) and although there is a slight difference between all pinball machine since they're essentially hand built, the difference between these two R&Ms is beyond that.

Feels like there is very little in the way of QC on these games.

The owner of the game I picked up said he spent endless hours fixing problems from the factory. Same was the story of my original game too.

I have installed the replacement bushings from Spooky. Once I installed the new bushings, the GITD rubbers were cleaned, and I rotated them since the flipper tips were shredding. So these dirt tracks are all from use with the lower bushings.

OK, I'm not alone then. Having only played mine, I was always curious if other machines played differently. Now with experience playing 3 other R&Ms, my thoughts are not any different than what you've encountered.

Just to add another data point... on mine (#325) I had to do virtually *nothing*. I had a loose cable for the LED readout by the scoop to push down. I felt the flippers were a little wonky but after lowering them they feel great.

That's it. I had a whole list ready to go from the forum of potential fixes so I had mixed feelings about having nothing to tinker with. All I got to do was replace the jet engine power supply fan. lol

Now my left shot to the portal would probably benefit with a little reshaping but that would be it. Inner loop is multi-hittable and all shots feel good. No airballs and I don't even use a fan setup on the flippers as I still seem to be able to hit the left ramp after maybe 45 mins of playing. I rarely play it longer than that in one sitting though.
I have the original shooter wireform and it has served the ball perfectly every time from day one. Go figure.

I'm posting this not to belittle other's experiences but I suspect we don't hear as much about the ones with few issues. Just the ones that caused some owners to experience premature hair loss.

Funny how you went from selling to now owning two. Not a bad outcome as if you have the space I figure they may keep ticking up in value.

And I HAVE played another I realize... pre-covid I played one at a bar in DC and it felt pretty similar to the way mine did when it was finally delivered. So decent ones are out there.

I initially sucked at both of them but after a lot of swearing and re-learning some fundamentals I've been hooked.

Honestly the first few weeks I had my doubts if I would ever come to terms with it as it seemed on a different level of difficulty from every other machine I have. Even TWD which usually was the target of most of my swearing up until R&M.

Now it's the one I turn on first. Sometimes the only one. Who would figure?

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I'm glad to hear yours was good out of the box. Excluding myself, I know 4-5 people who have owned R&M, and every single one of them have had significant issues. One guy said he was afraid to turn it on because every time he did, something broke, and he wasn't technical enough to fix it himself.

I also think that it's hard to gauge how well a game is made, and how it plays, as every player has different skills and expectations. I consider myself an above average player, and feel like I can get deep into most games, so I'm aware of how the game should shoot. I think a lot of people play more casually, and for them, whether a game shoots great or not, they really wouldn't know.

All I know, is having two games side-by-side, these things are being put together consistently.

As for having two of them, it's pretty neat comparing them, and just seeing their differences. I enjoy both of them for their own quirks.

When the buyer picks one up, I'll be left with one, and I plan to keep it for a while.

The game sort of reminds me of Walking Dead (one of my favs) but instead of stacking zombie kills, you're going for megaseeds. I have young kids, so although neither game is appropriate, at least one doesn't have blood splatter and horrifying graphics on it. I can always turn down the swearing, so for me, this one is a keeper.

For an alternate translite, would anyone know what side, top, and lift trim would be the correct size? I think stern is too big?

See post #17157 in this thread for translite/backglass dimensions.

Yes but there are lift channels for stern. Lift channels for Bally and Williams. Side channels too.

I don’t have anything to physically compare it to. What is most like the one on the current? I don’t want to remove those.

I didn't hesitate to remove the factory supplied edging from the original backglass but understand your concern. I believe replacement trim can be purchased from Pinballlife. Make sure it's 3/16" track, the sides come in 20" lengths, the top rail 24 3/4" length and lift channel 28 1/2" lengths. I'm going to buy them when I've got enough to order to justify the shipping. Hope that helps.

thank you sir!

Pics please, thx

Anyone know if spooky was out of office yesterday? They were helping me work on an update issue Thursday and I have not got a reply back since then. Assuming it was a great st patty’s day!

They never work fridays. It’s a monday-Thursday 10 hour days deal.

Gotcha. Thanks!

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As requested, pics of the alternate translite. Figured I'd alternate between the original and this one as mood warrants.

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So the ground wire on the bottom right flipper keeps breaking/melting off. Has anyone else experienced this? Or know what the issue is? I've resoldered it many times now and it keeps happening. Bad chip on the board regulating the ground? Too thin of a wire? Maybe I should repin the clip? I've never had a repeat wire issue like this on any other pin that I've had to resolder. Makes me think something else is going on.

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Anytime I've had this problem (stuff re-breaking) it's been my bad soldering. The joint may be contaminated with crud from the wire jacket, maybe clean all the solder off the lug, cut the wire back a bit and start over fresh.

Anyone have any pointers for updating while I wait till Monday? I’m on the older Odroid H2 board

To add, make cure the coil itself is mounted nice and tight, and you don't have too much conductor exposed. The object here is to reduce a vibration-induced mechanical (stress) failure of the conductor/joint due to flexing.

If it is an electrical (heat) induced failure, you should see telltales such as flared or discolored insulation. To avoid that, make sure you're using all the strands in the conductor and didn't somehow cut a few off short when you trimmed the insulator. That mistake is easy to make. Using too few strands increases the current (and thus heat) passing through them. That's not always a big deal on certain applications, but for a flipper it could be a very big deal indeed.

I have seen telltale signs on the insulation of heat issues. The insulation has appeared melted/black a few times. This has happened probably 5 times now. I replaced the coil recently due to the actual lug cracking once. So the most recent break definitely had no insulation contamination in it. This most recent time I definitely made sure all the stands were attached.

Edit: added photo of most recent solder

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Just curious, have you changed the 3.0 amp fuse to 5.0 amp on the circuit feeding the flippers?