Exton, PA
Hello,
Anyone know where I can get a new Peace Among Worlds Sticker, Mine pealing away. Thanks.
(Topic ID: 257850)
Linked Games
Rick and Morty (Blood Sucker Edition)
Spooky Pinball, 2020-
Rick and Morty (Standard)
Spooky Pinball, 2020
Topic Gallery
Quoted from manadams:My plastic protector broke under the noob noob plastic. All they have on Pinball Life for replacements is the neon green protector for under the slings. Don't want to bother Spooky with asking for a replacement
I got replacements for the Noob Noob and the protector directly from Spooky.
Quoted from guitarded:I got replacements for the Noob Noob and the protector directly from Spooky.
Yeah looks like it's my only option, just would be less bugging of them when their busy if they put everything on Pinball Life.
Quoted from PlanetExpress:Joined the club this weekend…. Butter cab and all the options… added VooDoo Glass and an external sub (no more glass rattle):[quoted image]
Nice, another R&M in Ohio! Flip that cup holder before you bash your leg.
Quoted from northerndude:Put ad ad on FB marketplace this morning, getting flooded with powered sub offers....nice.
Told ya!
Quoted from PlanetExpress:Joined the club this weekend…. Butter cab and all the options… added VooDoo Glass and an external sub (no more glass rattle):[quoted image]
That is an ideal lineup to me. 4 games, 4 eras, 4 designers, 4 manufacturers, Ritchie, Lawlor, Danesi... Rick and Morty is a beaty.
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:That is an ideal lineup to me. 4 games, 4 eras, 4 designers, 4 manufacturers, Ritchie, Lawlor, Danesi... Rick and Morty is a beaty.
Thanks, that’s just what I was going for, a lineup with great representation for era/designer (Krynski for Paradise, BTW). The other wall will be all pre-war.
Kortrijk
Quoted from May:to be sure, are these the better ones?
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-300-0199-00
Yes. 
Last night I was playing and the right flippers and ball kickout stopped working. It was late and didn't look into this yet. I assume a fuse blew. Anyone else have this issue? Hopefully I will have time to look at this tonight.
Quoted from Eric_S:Last night I was playing and the right flippers and ball kickout stopped working. It was late and didn't look into this yet. I assume a fuse blew. Anyone else have this issue? Hopefully I will have time to look at this tonight.
All of these are on the same fuse:
- Right Flipper lower
- right flipper upper
- anti gravity
- cabinet knocker
- Shaker motor
- Shooter lane launch
- topper motor
- trough eject (main)
Mine has blown just once in 3K plays, and I do not have the setting enabled to use anti gravity simultaneously with the right flipper which requires a larger fuse.
Quoted from orlandu81:All of these are on the same fuse:
- Right Flipper lower
- right flipper upper
- anti gravity
- cabinet knocker
- Shaker motor
- Shooter lane launch
- topper motor
- trough eject (main)
Mine has blown just once in 3K plays, and I do not have the setting enabled to use anti gravity with the right flipper.
Had to respond ... can't believe you're not using the anti gravity, I find it adds just one more fleeting chance to keep that damn ball alive! Thx for your outline on what's powered through that fuse.
Quoted from zebpin61:Had to respond ... can't believe you're not using the anti gravity, I find it adds just one more fleeting chance to keep that damn ball alive! Thx for your outline on what's powered through that fuse.
I believe they just meant not simultaneously. There is an added setting that allows both the right flipper and anti-gravity to be activated at the same time, but requires a larger fuse.
Quoted from wackenhut:When you hook up an external sub, this solves the glass issue?
You have to turn the bass down on the amplifier in the bottom of the cabinet to do that or install anti-rattle tape.
Thanks. It is interesting that some machines have the glass rattle issue and others do not...I guess most do.
Quoted from Eric_S:Last night I was playing and the right flippers and ball kickout stopped working. It was late and didn't look into this yet. I assume a fuse blew. Anyone else have this issue? Hopefully I will have time to look at this tonight.
I ended up finding a broken coil power wire on the upper flipper, so power wasn't getting to downstream coils via the daisy-chained wire. Soldered it back on and good to go.
Quoted from PlanetExpress:Thanks, that’s just what I was going for, a lineup with great representation for era/designer (Krynski for Paradise, BTW). The other wall will be all pre-war.
I’m just excited somebody besides me owns a Paradise. Lol.
Quoted from Happy81724:I am running a 2020 code and spookys link doesn’t work. Is this the most recent code?
https://soldmy.org/pin/rm/
Yup, just loaded it on mine last weekend. That site is where the link on Spooky’s site leads.
Quoted from PlanetExpress:Yup, just loaded it on mine last weekend. That site is where the link on Spooky’s site leads.
Cool, this is what I keep getting on the spooky site but I started downloading from the link I found in this forum
07BE828A-BE2C-454D-86D3-1BE6743449DD (resized).pngI haven’t got a lot of games on the pin but we are really enjoying it. I have never used the third flipper button. Is that for a mode?
Quoted from Happy81724:I haven’t got a lot of games on the pin but we are really enjoying it. I have never used the third flipper button. Is that for a mode?
That's your magnasave button, to try to keep balls from going out the right outlane.
Quoted from Rum-Z:That's your magnasave button, to try to keep balls from going out the right outlane.
Ah, ok, so like black knight. Thanks!
Quoted from Happy81724:Ah, ok, so like black knight. Thanks!
Right, but it works a little different though, in that the magnasave on R&M is designed to be "pulsed" and not just continuously held down. When you get a ball that looks like it's going out the right outlane, just try pushing the magnasave button just enough to fling the ball back into play. You'll see what I mean and you'll get the hang of it.
Another interesting note: You can't use both the right flipper and magnasave at the same time by default. It's either or. If you want to be able to use the right flipper and magnasave at the same time, you have to turn on that option in the game menu, and you should upgrade the fuse on that circuit, as you're likely to blow the stock fuse by using these at the same time.
Happy81724 plays my Rick and Morty one time. Two weeks later....owns one. It must be a good game. lol
Quoted from Jakers:Happy81724 plays my Rick and Morty one time. Two weeks later....owns one. It must be a good game. lol
I did something similar. Great game.
Quoted from Jakers:Happy81724 plays my Rick and Morty one time. Two weeks later....owns one. It must be a good game. lol
Yeah, it’s a lot of fun and I took off swearing so the kiddos actually like it a lot. It’s probably the funniest pin we’ve played
Quoted from Jakers:Happy81724 plays my Rick and Morty one time. Two weeks later....owns one. It must be a good game. lol
Yep. R&M still seems under-the-radar. Can't believe what Stern LE's are fetching, and they aren't all that "Limited" anymore. With only 750 R&M's in existence, seems like one of the best overall values in pinball...
Quoted from snaroff:Yep. R&M still seems under-the-radar. Can't believe what Stern LE's are fetching, and they aren't all that "Limited" anymore. With only 750 R&M's in existence, seems like one of the best overall values in pinball...
I can't speak to it personally as I have yet to get around to watching season 5 or 6, but I'm seeing articles and vlogs etc are asking why the last 2 seasons seem different and not as good. Seems that whatever changed over there at AS, some of the writers also changed. If the quality has went down on the show...duu duu duuuuu. The longevity of the theme may be in question. Not that it matters right now. It really is a niche theme.
Quoted from Eric_S:I ended up finding a broken coil power wire on the upper flipper, so power wasn't getting to downstream coils via the daisy-chained wire. Soldered it back on and good to go.
Same thing happened on mine.
Quoted from DanQverymuch:Right side sling, flipper, upper flipper, magnet stop working. Launcher and trough eject, too.
The other two on this driver card still work? (Shaker, knocker.) Fuse not blown, then.
Aha! Those two are in the cabinet, not under the playfield.
Yup. Broken wire, upper flipper, cutting off everything down the line.
Quoted from Happy81724:I figured out the meter ribbon but the one to the back box/speaker lights When I tried to hook to the bottom power it wouldn’t boot the game. Anyone have a pic of their lower right power supply?
[quoted image]
I got it working thanks to help from @jakers! Much appreciated
Quoted from Happy81724:I got it working thanks to help from Jakers! Much appreciated
Put a dab of hot glue on that ribbon cable while you’re at it. I had that same issue.
Anyone had to change out the topper motor? What is involved?
Also, regarding the glass rattle, I know the recommendation is to put the anti-rattle tape around the glass, but it seems to be tight enough on the sides. Might be a stupid question, but how can you tell what area needs to be tighter besides trial and error with tape. It seems like the culprit would be at the head and bottom lock bar.
Quoted from wackenhut:Anyone had to change out the topper motor? What is involved?
Also, regarding the glass rattle, I know the recommendation is to put the anti-rattle tape around the glass, but it seems to be tight enough on the sides. Might be a stupid question, but how can you tell what area needs to be tighter besides trial and error with tape. It seems like the culprit would be at the head and bottom lock bar.
I tried anti rattle tape of varying amounts, but it never got it to a point that wasn’t still slightly annoying. I went with an external sub and disconnected the one in the cabinet. No rattle now and sounds even better.
Quoted from wackenhut:Anyone had to change out the topper motor? What is involved?
Also, regarding the glass rattle, I know the recommendation is to put the anti-rattle tape around the glass, but it seems to be tight enough on the sides. Might be a stupid question, but how can you tell what area needs to be tighter besides trial and error with tape. It seems like the culprit would be at the head and bottom lock bar.
I turned off the topper motor in settings…. It still has the lights come on, so it doesn’t feel like spinning adds much.
I put a strip of self adhesive felt in the glass channel at the head and swapped to an external sub, which solved my rattles.
Quoted from wackenhut:Anyone had to change out the topper motor? What is involved?
Also, regarding the glass rattle, I know the recommendation is to put the anti-rattle tape around the glass, but it seems to be tight enough on the sides. Might be a stupid question, but how can you tell what area needs to be tighter besides trial and error with tape. It seems like the culprit would be at the head and bottom lock bar.
I did a lap of anti rattle tape all the way around. Did a bit of tuning on my audio settings and have absolutely zero rattle.
It may be a bit tight on the sides of the cabinet isn’t perfectly square also.
Quoted from wackenhut:Anyone had to change out the topper motor? What is involved?
Also, regarding the glass rattle, I know the recommendation is to put the anti-rattle tape around the glass, but it seems to be tight enough on the sides. Might be a stupid question, but how can you tell what area needs to be tighter besides trial and error with tape. It seems like the culprit would be at the head and bottom lock bar.
I’ve been doing the zip ties. Cutting the top off them where the tie goes through so it’s just a flat piece of plastic. Then you push it under the plastic that holds the glass. About three go the length of the rail. It works really well
Does the Polk Sub come with the cables necessary to hook up to the pinball machine? Is it just red and white or something else?
Quoted from wackenhut:Does the Polk Sub come with the cables necessary to hook up to the pinball machine? Is it just red and white or something else?
It just requires a piece of speaker wire. None was included with the Polk sub.
Quoted from orlandu81:Super bands on the flippers, and yes the two posts by the spaceship wear out super fast. I just bought extra titan (Stern skinny) and replace them often. When they wear out again, I will change all the posts to these.
https://www.pinballlife.com/perfectplay-1-116-thin-stern-compatible-rubber-post-sleeve.html
Hello - just following up. After less than 2 weeks (and not that many plays) the perfectplay rubber post sleeves are even LESS durable than the titan skinny ones. I will be going back to the titans and I guess I'll just plan to change them every month at least...kind of a bummer.
Quoted from orlandu81:Hello - just following up. After less than 2 weeks (and not that many plays) the perfectplay rubber post sleeves are even LESS durable than the titan skinny ones. I will be going back to the titans and I guess I'll just plan to change them every month at least...kind of a bummer.
I have not tried them yet myself, but I've heard of folks using these and saying they hold up really well.
Quoted from Jigz:I have not tried them yet myself, but I've heard of folks using these and saying they hold up really well.
https://www.passionforpinball.com/colorsleeves.htm
Thanks I sent Cliff a note. I think the skinny aspect of these sleeves is important given the small margin of error already required to succeed at R&M. These look quite thick, but may be worth a try.
Quoted from orlandu81:Hello - just following up. After less than 2 weeks (and not that many plays) the perfectplay rubber post sleeves are even LESS durable than the titan skinny ones. I will be going back to the titans and I guess I'll just plan to change them every month at least...kind of a bummer.
Dude - Superbands for posts. seriously.
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