Ear plugs

Turn it off haha. It has to be the worlds shittiest motor. I turned mine off in attract mode.

Not much you can do outside of insulating it somehow.

I finally got to play Rick and Morty yesterday .
What a great game .
Was a bit of a drain monster for the first few games , but once you learnt the shots it wasn't to bad .
At first glance it didn't look like there was much in it , but it has more than meets the eye .
Like everyone has said it's the fun and the call outs that puts it over the top .
We played it , till we broke it
I ruined everything FalconPunch
10/10

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On my route game, the motor has gotten much quieter over time. In home use that may take a long time though.

Thanks to cooked71 post on how he fixed his magnet, my magnet now works. I removed the z connector and connected the wires together and it’s all good. Z connector causing trouble again! Thanks

Some screen adjustments I made that really helped the stock lcd pop with color much more.

Color setting = user. This is a big one. It’s under color settings.
Contrast 95
Brightness 20
Gamma on

The difference in smoothness on the inner and garage shots, based on all the great feedback, is incredible. Thanks guys

Quick question

When portal isn’t active, should a right orbit shot be directed to the inner loop or should it still go to the empty portal saucer?

In the key notes, looks like the fix was just removing the rubber to straighten out the ball guide???

Do you replace the post with a thinner rubber?

Or were there other ideas on how to fix this issue?

Should go to the inner loop

Someone might have, but no rubbers replaced here. You just want the end to be lined up with the post so the ball doesn't hit it in or out.

Ok, so your leftmost post on the horseshoe does not have a rubber?

It has a rubber. Not sure what guide you looked at but removing/replacing that rubber was not part of it that I'm aware of.

Is it possible to replace the motor w/ a quieter version. Like a servo motor that runs smooth?

Inner loop. Soon after unboxing mine, discovered this:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/164#post-5984455

Don't know if this is your problem, but something to checkout.

Thanks. Mine goes to the inner loop so it’s working correctly. Just wanted to double check

That’s what I was thinking too. The stock can in this game was so ridiculously loud but after changing it out with pin monk one it’s super quiet. Could something similar be done here? I love the topper btw - it looks great on the game

Give it a few weeks and you won't even notice it, unless it is in your family room and you leave it on when you aren't playing it. I NEVER even notice that it is even running while I'm playing, but I shut it off when I'm not playing.

I didn’t remove the post, but I didn’t replace the switches and pinch together the top portion of the inner ball guide. Someone detailed this earlier on in this thread.

I’d put removing the factory switches, particularly the top right one, as a must do. Then Tweak the inner guides. Difference is huge

Happy New Year, or whatever.

Build 2022.01.02:
- Added: New optional setting to disable backbox LED during gameplay (Because; glare)
- Added: More unused call-outs worked in for various things (not tons, don't get too excited)
- Added: New setting for playfield digit display brightness
- Fixed: Race condition that could cause a crash with the Scary Terry roving shots
- Fixed: GMB locks that "timed out" weren't removed from "locks qualified" and would cause weirdness.
- Fixed: Blood Dome music wouldn't end if final scoop shot was made.
- Fixed: New reset logic to avoid 'stuck' dimension sound effects
- Fixed: Closed a loophole that could cause a crash in Rick Potion No. 9
- Fixed: Logic issues made the flipper + antigrav setting not work as expected in all cases
- Changed: "Extra ball" indicators next to the digit display changed do darker orange.

https://soldmy.org/pin/rm/

anyone having problems updating there game im using a fat32 drive and I keep getting the update required screen.

You know how the lockdown bar can get kinda sticky? Mine has been sticky the entire time I've owned it so I've always just beat the one corner down. Yep. One beat too many. Sigh. Freakin glass everywhere! Good news is I'll dismantle the upper part of the playfield to remove glass and start making all the necessary tweaks.

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Ouch. Condolences.

Ouch. Sorry to hear.

Ugh...tough to see....

Good reminder…but this sucks.

Wow that sucks, btw did you leave the foam packing on the ship spring this whole time?

Spotted this today while I was driving in the snow. It’s missing a “B” but it had to be a sign of a new code update.
Thank You epthegeek
Happy New Year!
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Ugh. That sux! You’re going to be finding chards of glass for years. It gets everywhere!

Maybe I'm overlooking but the link provided says 08/21 build. Where can I get this 22 build?

THANKS for adding this setting! So much easier to see the back of the PF...the difference is huge!

Smooth update...many thanks!!

Play the crap out of this game...love it!!

Shift + Refresh or open in a new private window perhaps.

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I haven't tried it yet (going to now) but did the "EB" led brightness get reduced or a setting added to adjust it?
(not that I see it that often lol)

Can't wait to try the backbox dimming... great job epthegeek! Worth the wait.

EDIT: Ok I'm dumb and missed the LED digit dimming in the release notes. That's what happens when you get excited. Four levels to try!

I'm probably going to jinx myself but I've yet to have this game reject an update. Smooth as silk every time. That's what you get using quality free giveaway Microcenter flash drives

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Send me a link to the gofundme.

Yep. I had it on location until recently so I left it on to protect all the plastics up there. My game always gets a ton of air balls so I thought it was a good idea. Car still moves around quite a bit.

Shit! I hope the portal wasn't open when this happened, it'll take even longer to track down all the pieces.

It might be worth using a ShopVac to get most of the loose glass out before you start getting in there.

Holy crap. I can't upvote this post because I hate what I am seeing here. I can't downvote this post because that's just making things worse. Just know that all of us who saw this cringed and will now (or continue to) be extremely careful when putting the lockdown bar on.

I used to sometimes have trouble getting the glass in far enough to let the lockbar seat properly. A wise man taught me never to force things. In my case the problem came and went when I moved the game around while deciding where it will go, due to the basement floor being uneven. This pointed to the cabinet not being rigid enough, allowing it to sag out of square, and fiddling with the leg levelers solved it.

+100

Funny thing is in 6 years I never encountered this, which I guess in hindsight was pure dumb luck. Then in 2021 I had this problem on a few games - some new acquisitions, others formerly trouble-free but swapped around. I'm usually very attentive when moving and setting up games, ensuring they're level from the outset. But I moved those "quick" and ultimately discovered it can take relatively little (in just the right positions / corners / ??) to make a cabinet go out of square. And it's also hard to predict!

Next time you have a lockbar off, check how much glass is protruding/inset under the channels at the left and right side. If these amounts are not equal, your cabinet is not squared, and thus not leveled. And BTW this applies to ANY game: I had this problem on both my R&M *and* GTB Black Hole... nobody will ever say a BH cabinet is underbuilt! At any rate, the bar and glass are much easier to deal with when the cabinet is proper.

Likewise, if you can't remove the lockbar after moving a game, raise it on a lift cart and see what happens. If it then works as expected, that means the cabinet & hardware is fine and you need to investigate leveling.

Huge truth here!!! I've had several where the glass would almost fall out of the game w lockbar off, only to have them bind after moving.

Always the most nerve racking part of setting up a game...everyone talks about pitch ( front to back), but rarely is left to right talked about much. Gotta be level and " square"....some games really play like crap otherwise. Not to mention the glass just takes a tiny bit of wrong pressure ( only took me once w a sheet of PDI to be overly OCD ...never forgot that explosion)

LOL I have a game where the glass ejects 18" like it's spring loaded and then keeps slowly sliding out the rest of the way. No "eh, just let it sit there while I make this quick adjustment" chance-taking there.

One thing I forgot to add to my post above - and this is a key detail, oops - is that it's possible for a playfield to be level side-side even as a cab is out of square! The tolerances in the playfield hinges, hangers, and other interface hardware can allow this to happen. So next time you have a playfield nice and level between the flippers and elsewhere, but the lockbar and/or glass are still giving you fits... try placing your level in the lockbar channel. You may be surprised as I was to discover things can be out of whack out of sync.

Fortunately the only PF glass I've ever had shatter was a good 15 seconds after I gently set one down (stood up on its edge) - in full view of customers on location, it just exploded on its own, we were all like WTF just happened LOL - no negligence on my part, and yes I have been rightly terrified and paranoid ever since. But I've found telltale chunks in probably 25% of the games I've worked on. That stuff gets EVERYWHERE. I've no doubt 5 years from now some random piece of glass will "portal" into view in that R&M above.

Yeah. Before the new piece of glass goes in I'm triple checking clearances, spacing, everything. Remember I said this was on location for a while so I'd open it up during league to free a stuck ball or whatever and hammer it down...at least it happened in the garage.

I was at the York show a loooong time ago and had removed the glass from my Genie. Set it on my foot but a corner tapped the concrete and it absolutely assploded. All I had left was two corners and a shocked expression! People within 20 feet were brushing glass off their shirts. Needless to say the price got reduced.

Mine was so tight that the glass has become chipped on that side, guess I got lucky so far! Tweaking the tab seems to have solved the bind before it was too late

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Thank you Eric for your timely update release!

Going to update, I opened my coin door to insert the USB stick into the USB extension cable. While doing so, I noticed a black hex bolt lying on the bottom of the cab. Quick inspection from the coin door opening showed me this was from a flipper assembly….SHIT!

So I lift up the pf and start glancing around to check possible homes for the bolt. Bingo, it’s part of the lower flipper assembly, one of two holding the coil in place. But wait, I discovered the the lower right flipper had the same missing bolt….looky at what found, another bolt hiding under speaker wires….and the lock washers were “stuck” to the subwoofer magnet! Screwed this back on, fixed.

During my inspection, I also found that the pop bumper assembly was a few bolt threads away from exploding, with one of two nuts and corresponding 3 washers all missing from the coil-rod assembly, and this second one barely hanging on.

I wonder how many more games could have been played before my machine crapped out on me and some major issues developed!

During the follow up testing and play, had the game volume down and could notice a loud ish hum sourcing from the upper right flipper while the right flipper button was fully pressed (as if to cradle the ball on the lower right flipper). The noise is not present with fast button presses, only during a trap/hold scenario. Is this a normal behavior? Does anyone else notice this on their game? Am I in for a world of hurt and now need to track down this issue?

So I had my best game last night with all of these loop tweaks applied - 26m (I'm not very good).

The return from the left ramp back to the right orbit - that still rattles sometimes. Is that how it is for others or are there tweaks for that as well? I read something about pushing the little ramp flap up (at the exit) - but anything else I should be doing?

It's weird. I had this issue at one point and then it went away when I moved the game to a different location and re-leveled. So maybe take a look at the side to side level on the back end. I will say I solved a bunch of other issues by shooting slow mo video on my iPhone. It really helps to identify what the problem is because balls are flying fast as fuck on this game.

It's normal. With a single coil flipper assembly you're hearing the pulse of the hold circuit. Sometimes it can be louder than others, sometimes you can reduce it by fiddling with the coil stop so there is less chatter between the plunger and the stop, etc.

It does make you miss (and appreciate) WMS virtually silent dual wound assemblies though.

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The new update is pretty nice. One thing I'm noticing going from the August 2021 to the January 2022 update is I'm seeing the flashers going off behind the crank pretty often after the ball drains. It doesn't affect gameplay, but this behavior is definitely new and I've seen it 3 times in the first hour since the update. Anyone else seeing that?