post the video

I would be ecstatic if my scoop only rejected half the time!

I am going to try reducing my flipper power to the absolute minimum that still makes the ramps solidly, maybe that will calm the ball down for the scoop. The flipper coils should stay cooler longer then, too, I would think.

I just want to be able to backhand the right ramp -- I am at 38 power with new bushings.

I just weird you have enough power to make left ramp but not backhand the right one. Check your flipper position, maybe the previous owner changed where they should be from factory. Here is my flipper positioning.

20210423_222224 (resized).jpg

Mine are a touch lower than this (closer to the hole). Is this how most folks have them? I can hit the right ramp on a backhand.

Update 3 - A loooooot of interest! Thanks!!! I will send out PMs this weekend summing up status/build time/shipping/etc. to everyone. This is a weekend hobby effort for me, so it will take a bit of time. No payment until its done/ready to ship!

Scary Terry is Sold Out. There are currently 8 guys on a waitlist if I can make more of Terry. I am looking around the web for more of him at reasonable cost and will reach out to you regarding options as they occur. If you want on wait list then please still PM me for Terry.

Squanchy - 9/16 are left. So those are still possibility.

Again, thanks for feedback. I have some other exciting mod ideas for R&M that I want to share but I want to finish this round first for everyone on request list.

So this is my current flipper position that will not backhand the right ramp.

1E94F294-659B-4D87-91A0-6862C7A56ACB (resized).jpeg

Wow! I am at 23 power and can backhand the right ramp with ease. My flipper positioning is identical to manadams

Maybe the answer is your flipper power is too high affecting the backhand, try setting to 25 or lower and see if you can do it.

How hot are the coils supposed to get after several games. When I was done, I did feel the right flipper coil and it was pretty hot. Although, this is not the reason why I can't backhand since I have tried from when I first turn on the machine.

How steep is your playfield?? In the 6.5-7 range it should backhand ok, mine does. Beyond 7 it may struggle unless coils are cooled and wound right up.

Do you the new bushings or x-spacers installed?

When you guys are saying you can backhand the shot, are you making it from a trap position or do you need speed from the outlane?
Yes, have the new bushings installed.

I can hit it from trap... I can't imagine it's possible without trapping. The speed would make that angle almost impossible to hit, no?

Yeah you are right lol

Hey guys so I made today a bunch of games and noticed following behavoir with my R&M:

1. Ball save during multiball

In the 3 Ball Multiball I lost one ball after a few seconds. During the ballsave period of 10 seconds it came back. All fine... But while the new ball was in shooterlane a second ball was lost during the Multiball in the ball save period (2 seconds before it was over)... These ball wasn't not served again. I only had a two ball Multiball, but the balls were lost during the ballsave timer period... Is this normal ?

2. Ball launch

During the gameplay the ball launch is not consist. In the Multiball (see point one) it needs 2-3 trys to get the second ball up to the launch rail... No idea how I can fix it.

3. Scoop STDM

Sometime my scoop fires the ball not on the right flipper or the tip of the right flipper - the ball goes STDM.
Is there a known fix for?

Thank you guys.

Can anyone who has installed the new IPS from Pinball Mod Co give me an idea of how long it will take to complete the install? I don't have many pockets of time open this weekend and am trying to figure out if I should wait. 30 minutes? 1 hour? 2 hours? Thanks!

Mine just shipped & I just sold my BSE

20 mins should be fine if everything goes good and you don't have questions or problems. Fyi original metal screen holder latch is discarded. I am still waiting to hear back on the intended location of the different included black strips.

-Disconnect wires
-Remove key lock nut/bracket/ and assy
-remove monitor nuts
-Loosen both speakers enough to remove monitor, and/or swivel right speaker out of way
-install mystery black pads(?)
-set new monitor in place
-install 3d printed controller bracket onto lock assy and secure nut
-install 3d printed clamps to hold monitor
-re-tighten speakers
-screw controller board assemblies to 3d printed bracket
-install new ribbon cable from monitor to controller (delicate part).. blue strip facing up on board.
-reconnect wires
20211110_172515 (resized).jpg20211110_175311 (resized).jpg

20211110_171450 (resized).jpg

20211110_171841 (resized).jpg

Anyones ball get stuck on initial launch between the rollover switch and the rail if it diverts to the left?

Wow this is great, thanks for typing this out for the group! I also got the plexi protector add on, I wonder if the mystery black strips are to use between that and the IPS?

Not sure about 1, but suspect it has something to do with 2.

You can can adjust the strength of your ball launch in the menu settings, but know that the original launch lane wire form is flawed. Pinball Life sells an updated wire form. Buy it and install it.

As for 3, try slight bending the left corner of the scoop down. It probably won't take much.

Do you notice a difference between the bushings and the spacers? I had assumed that would not be a measurable difference. I guess it could be influenced by the bushings being new and clean like you mentioned as well.

1) I'm pretty sure I read in here somewhere that if you drain too many balls during multiball, you won't get balls back, even if there is time left on the ball save.

Ok maybe its ajustable in the settings

I put the thicker black strips between each of the 4 brackets and the new screen. It holds it in place that way. I don't know where the thin strips go.

Interesting. I don't have the middle plug. I only have HDMI and the power.

Highly recommend using super bands on R&M. With the original as well as new silicone rubbers it was super hard to get the ball under control. Now it's still challenging but manageable.

Middle plug is only on the latest release spooky machines

Yes a good recommandation. Superbands helping a Lot

I can't seem to find my video but here's basically the same thing I'm seeing;
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/67#post-5689714

Anyone know what diameter the longer screws needed for Xspacers would be? #10?? I know I need 5/8 instead of 1/2 just need diameter size. Want to stop on the way home

These are the ones I ship with the kit. They have them at ace sometimes.

5A2E87DD-4661-433E-A6F4-EF505C3BB49F (resized).jpeg

1. There is a game/software limit to the number of saves with this game. Can’t remember where this was stated but it was Scott D or Bowen that went over it. Basically, even though the ball save may last 12-15 seconds there are a limited number of balls the game will return - can’t remember the specifics.

2. New launch habitrail from Pinball Life (I think) fixed that for me.

3. Loosen the scoop and give it a little force towards the left flipper and tighten it back up. If that doesn’t work, put washers between the playfield and the mech but only on the left side so that the entire mech is slightly canted.

Good luck - it’s a difficult game to get dialed in.

That’s a tough one. It almost looks like the back of the scoop is too rigid. I wonder what would happen if you loosened the scoop under the playfield in small increments. Might might get to a point where it feels really secure, but has just enough forgiveness that it can absorb some of the energy that’s causing the ball to rattle out?

I feel like I’m making more shots. However, removing the flippers to swap bushing required me to realign the flippers, and I cleaned up a couple of the shots. Tough to isolate what changes really impacted my play.

Can someone with Cliffy protectors on the shooting lane post a quick picture of how theirs looks installed? I think I have mine in right. But the protector that is on the right below the side rail has a small piece that sticks out slightly and is scratching the side of my cabinet when raising and lowering. I want to just verify I have that one installed correctly.

Nothing should be sticking out. You need to remove a few of the screws holding the wood rails and slide the cliffy under it.

AD920FF7-04EA-4AFA-B7D4-4E0B62DBDF9F (resized).jpeg

Lost my anti gravity magnet. Switches work shaker motor reacts when pressed but no magnet. Checked magnet in self test and nothing. What next to check?
Thanks,
Al

I’ll take a pic tomorrow…there is a very small bend on the right side that sticks slightly out on mine. I thought it was to help anchor the protector from sliding further into the shooter lane.

That bend and point is meant to go under the wood to grip it. If it's too high, just trim the point with a CHP-170 or equivalent and slide it under there.

Fuse maybe?

If it’s just the magnet (and not the right flipper, etc.) it isn’t the fuse. Check for broken wires or bad solder joints first.

So I was playing last night, and my coin door decal keeps peeling more. Finally decided to just design a plate and 3d print it. Feel free to download and print your own.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5136133
decal_peeling (resized).jpg
3d_printed_plate (resized).jpg

Nice! I wonder if anyone sell Kalaxian Purple filament?

Hadn't considered that color scheme

purple_coin_door_decal (resized).png

I’m all squared away. For a first time installer of Cliffy’s, it was a little tricky. There was a side rail screw under a PCB board that had to come out. But, it’s in there. I think I’ll skip the Danesi lock 2.0 drop target protectors (loop area) because they look like a real PIA to install.

For those curious, here was how I goofed mine up originally on that bent up bump. Originally, I thought it was there to help prevent the protector from sliding more into the lane. But, as was pointed out it is but goes under to rail.

48DFBAEA-5B25-4CEE-8A8F-6E472F85830A (resized).jpeg

A few of my decals did this, including my cabinet decals.

Not tricky at all to install the drop target protectors. Just remove the mech, slide in the protector, reattach the mech.

A2615975-FED2-42CF-B7F8-9F9059C7BE56 (resized).jpeg