Money talks & some people cry when a game is too challenging.

You mean 12,500 for a butter cab with all options
I think the code is done and no more improvements

Same here!

Although I’m pretty sure I had one of the worst aligned machines Spooky made. IE: Only making it through the orbit from the spinner side 1 out of 10 times because it gets hung up at the diverter seam, Right most switch only getting triggered 50% of the time, garage shot rail/guide pushed way out making the shot require perfection and luck, etc… I think I finally have it mostly dialed now. Fast and smooth now. My worst games are now better than my best games a month ago. The game is so good that it was worth it.

My Noob Noob protector broke also, haven't tried to replace. But I'm sure there's some protector kits out there, maybe even at PBL?

edit: nope, just the big coloured protectors for the front area with slings

I was able to order replacement Noob plastics and protector direct from Spooky.

Yeah, first stop email Kayte/Morgan at Spooky.
Second stop PBLife

It took awhile to dial mine in too. Including moving the garage rail. My scores jumped by a factor of 2x after all of the adjustments. And once dialed in, the disappointment with how the game shot (which was my only complaint with the game) are completely gone. Someone else wrote this plays very much like an old fast em game and I agree, for this reason it will be a long term keeper (its fast, short games, and very very fun).

I just recently made it to Rick Potion 9, and it was somewhat startling. I wasnt expecting it (my machine is set to start at 3 adventures, I may turn this down now). Really cool! If I had one additional wish for the code it would be a deeper wizard mode or 1-2 additional modes. I agree that I dont expect another update and as it sits this is now one of my favorite machines, so i dont feel it needs anything additional to be complete, but those would be wish list items.

The only other missing element is the lack of voices for Beth, Summer etc.. I dont think thats realistic to think they would ever be added in but if we are wishing and dreaming big it would be to have Spooky secure a smaller license to add in their voices or commentary and or 1-2 more modes. But I also would worry this would work against what, imho, is a perfectly balanced and the best use of IP that Ive seen in a modern game. While Spooky has some design, engineering and manufacturing limitations comparative to Stern etc.. where I believe they shine is theme integration, sounds, music etc.. IMHO RAM is their masterpiece of fun and theme integration and really reminds me of a fully fleshed out, IP themed TNA in terms of speed, overall experience, and shots.

Strengths: Theme integration, code, lights/light show, fun factor, sound, and art. Weakness: Engineering and build consistency, shots, depth of code in later game stages

I always laugh when I dont want to fill in my name for a highscore and just press end and it randomly gives me Roy anyway.

I think Spooky has several new modes in the bag, but are running into licensing review issues. We may or may not see them.

If this is true, I really hope it gets resolved. While it has plenty of quirks, R&M really is a brilliant pin. Eric & Bowen have done an incredible job in fleshing out a ruleset that is different but in tune with the R&M series. A code update would elevate to masterpiece status, it deserves it. Get it done Spooky!!!

Hard to capture a pic of the butter cabs from Spooky but I saw this earlier out of the corner of my eye and thought the angle and light could maybe convey it.

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I managed to destroy the switch right under the scoop (yeah, I'm not impressed either) so I need a replacement switch, but where can I order a new one? I don't even know the product number of it. Nothing in the pdf manual as far as I can see. :/

https://www.pinballlife.com/sternsegadata-east-vuk-vertical-up-kicker-fork-switch.html

We are on our second switch on our routed machine failed around 6k plays

Oh jeez those fork switches suck. Really wish manufacturers would stop using them in new designs. We have to keep multiple spares on hand for LOTR; they fail regularly.

They also used slingshot switches for the flipper switches. Hopefully they don't cheap out again with Halloween/Ultraman.

Makes me wish we went butter on ours. Stunning.

Anyone having issues with the drop targets on theirs's? My right drop target is not catching balls like it is supposed to. The right down switch works when depressed manually in test, but does not register in the drop target cycle as going down. I'm going back and forth with Spooky as well and hopefully they will help. Any and all help greatly appreciated. I don't even know where to start.

For LOTR I changed to https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5209-00

It is more robust than the fork style. You have to tweak the end of the switch in the Gimli vuk since it is so shallow and the ball rolls horizontally into the switch end. Once you get that set by slightly flattening the bump, you won't be replacing them anymore. Since RM drops down onto the top, maybe those would be the solution as well? I haven't seen the RM switch setup yet.

Seen this drop target discussed alot. Here are some things to try-

Check to see if the return spring was hyperextended and is flipping around.

Make sure the brass finger is close, but not touching the target when at rest and the drop target is up. If you are adjusted properly, then raise the pulse of the knockdown coil in the settings a bit.

I did that in my Lotr as well years ago and it worked really well. Between that and the garage switch in TSPP (that switch it BRUTAL to change) I never want to see one of those forked scoop switches again. Can’t speak to its effectiveness in R&M but I would definitely give it a shot.

Thank you for the ideas. I changed out the spring, but had other problems afterwards and returned to the original (one I had gotten as a replacement directly from Spooky support.). As of this morning, I think I may have corrected the issue, but will see if it continues to work after a few days. For anyone reading this years down the line with similar issues, what I found was that adjusting the switch that is triggered in the down position may have solved the issue. To do this, I loosened the screws holding down the switch and adjusted it so the drop had to be slightly further down to trigger the switch, and then re-tightened. This is working for the moment. If it is still working in a week I will call it solved.

My machine has been rock solid with the exception of these drop target mechs and the springs. Some re-engineering desperately needs to be done on these to make them slightly more tollerant to variables.

Otherwise, nothing but smiles and happy vibes coming from this machine.

Fellow Mortys in other dimensions, I must seek out for some help, in addition to hearing what council of spooky will say.
I mentioned earlier that I got increasingly awarded X-way combos, first it seemed connected to pushing flippers but it started happening regardless. In switch test I see it is House Opto being active/on, and now its constantly on. see photo. I reseated connectors, checked the soldering, and all seemed fine. Since I have optos spare for my homebrew, I soldered on some wires, crimped a connector and tried it in R-0 on the opto distribution board. Same, in witch test its on all time.

Question; In your games, is this House opto always on before starting a game, is it some kind of wierd switch config?
With swapping out optos,wire and molex connector... Im wondering what could be the cause. Could something on the opto distribution board be faulty?

Ill see what Spooky says also.

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Solution was found: It was the grey wire coming out from the opto switch board which was not pushed fully in from the factory. so it has been wiggling its way out since then. Luckily it was not the wire getting loose from the crimp, cause then i would have had to recrimp all of them. pheuw

Now to change the B52 fan.

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A new G-Shock for all you R&M super fans...

https://www.gshock.com/rick-and-morty

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My upper flipper stays flipped out sometimes by itself. Click of the button reseats it though. Also have seen it flinch when bass goes off. Anyone seen this? Everything on the underside seems OK.

We solved our weak pop bumper issue. We replaced transistors Q15 on the PD-16 board and now it is firing with full power!

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Just missed it. Best score since I got it back from Allentown.

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Wow congrats! What's your strategy for blowing it up?

Mega seeds. As many as you can fit up your ass.

I weep for your superfluous butt capacity.

Nice work.... Interesting. I always thought transistors either worked or didn't work.

Maybe in your dimension... This transistor was just kinda Jerry.

Check that your right flipper switches aren't getting caught on the plunger mech. I had this problem with mine and spent a lot of time engineering a cleaner switch setup.

Am I the only one that seems to be getting worse the longer I play? I set my high score of 88 million in the first month I had the machine (man was my butt sore from all those seeds), but I haven't been near that number again since, and I play it nearly every day. Despite it kicking my ass on a daily basis, I still play it the most of any of my machines.

This is me in general on most things. The less I know, the better I do. Once I start trying to actually hit things, I do worse.

Same boat as you. Although part of the reason is I don't get to play as much as I used to unfortunately. R&M is one of those pins I need 20 games on to get the feel of the geometry since it isn't your typical layout.

Deep

Have been taking my time dialing in shots on my RM... so far, so good. It is buttery smooth.

My last thing to tackle is some clunk coming out of the chute from the left ramp shot. I've tried bending/manipulating the the side and bottom portions of the chute's exit area to no avail. The ball comes out and rattles slightly, then comes straight down to the flipper.

Anyone encounter this with their game and come up with a sure-fire solutions to make the transition smooth?

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So, I have been getting some pops and screeches coming out of the audio. I think it's coming from a loose connection from the audio cable connecting to the main board. I don't see anything visually wrong with the cable. I'm trying to hold it in better with this zip tie pictured. Anyone else have this problem or other ideas?

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Looks like you added a Scary Terry to it since Allentown .

I seem to remember someone suggesting to remove the o-ring from the post right above the Cromulon's head in the area where the ball is bouncing/rattling around. I may try that tonight.

That's a really high score for only 10 Megaseeds. You must have really blown up the modes and multi-balls!

So you have the same issue?

Yes I do. It doesn't happen every time, but enough to be annoying, and I'd like to improve or fix it.

The only problem I have with that cable tie is the 1/4" 45deg angle cut. Get them flush cuts.

That's my biggest pet peeve at work, I work in telecom and use and see guys use sooo many cable ties, if they dont use flush cuts, put your hand into t apile of wires and get a 5' gash in your wrist as you pull your hand out.... aaaaaakkkk!

At work…. shouldn’t you be wearing your PPE?

Busted!!!

Don’t be a Jerry, wear your PPE. And tell your co-workers not to be Jerry’s too!

No kidding! I had 18 or 19 megaseeds last night and only scored 27 mil which is also somewhat hard to do, unless you’re me.

I think I largely fixed the issue by bending the sides of the exit surface upward... basically cupping the ball. I think the shot is exiting with a clear path around 90% of the time. I need to play more, to know, but I'm pretty sure that a few more tweaks would get it to 100%

Hi there! Standard #618 filling the gap

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