(Topic ID: 257850)

Official Rick and Morty Club - You are not like other carbon based life forms.

By TheNoTrashCougar

1 year ago


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There are 16222 posts in this topic. You are on page 322 of 325.
#16051 28 days ago
Quoted from MutterFudder:

My cabinet also had pilot holes were a normal switch would go. I just used those.

Use a single contact instead of a double. Cut the diode off. https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-flipper-leaf-switch-single-contact.html
Edited to add if you already have a double contact switch just use one of the contact pairs.

So you switched to Stern switches?

If so, would you say there is a significant difference in the way the game feels? I would assume with the extra blades for tension, it will feel much better than the cheapo factory switches.

#16052 28 days ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

So you switched to Stern switches?
If so, would you say there is a significant difference in the way the game feels? I would assume with the extra blades for tension, it will feel much better than the cheapo factory switches.

I did! I don't think the left flipper feels all that different, mine had a pretty decent feel to it before replacing. But I'm much, much happier with the feel and stage-ability (if that's a thing) of the right flipper after the mod. I didn't care for how it felt prior, and it did feel a little better after putting zipties in place but an adjusted stern switch felt much better (to me).

#16053 28 days ago
Quoted from MutterFudder:

I did! I don't think the left flipper feels all that different, mine had a pretty decent feel to it before replacing. But I'm much, much happier with the feel and stage-ability (if that's a thing) of the right flipper after the mod. I didn't care for how it felt prior, and it did feel a little better after putting zipties in place but an adjusted stern switch felt much better (to me).

Could you share a photo of it in the cabinet, and a close up of how you soldered the wires to the lugs.

Thanks so much!

#16054 28 days ago
Quoted from MutterFudder:

I did! I don't think the left flipper feels all that different, mine had a pretty decent feel to it before replacing. But I'm much, much happier with the feel and stage-ability (if that's a thing) of the right flipper after the mod. I didn't care for how it felt prior, and it did feel a little better after putting zipties in place but an adjusted stern switch felt much better (to me).

After adjusting original leaf switches the game plays fine with good stagebility in my case. A little softer feel than Stern, more like Williams wpc95 with opto flipper switches. It's fine for me this way. It's not a Stern so I don't necessarily want to play it like Stern...

If someone wants a Stern way of feel, just change them like described

#16055 27 days ago

I decided to adjust the curvature of the garage rail per instructions on this thread. My R&M is a late run so it actually shot pretty well out of the box. The upper right flipper shot to the garage is a tough one for me but has been make able. Once the ball has been shot accurately it did seem to have an impeded motion. After making the modifications the ball seems to travel smoothly towards the garage. I don’t know if the shot is easier to hit. Maybe but at least it’s smoother. I think the next thing to adjust is the right outer loop that goes to the garage. There is something that sometimes prevents the ball from getting to the garage.

#16056 27 days ago

Just joined the BSE club. Loving the game but have a few in the household saying the playfield is to dark. Any way of adjusting the LED brightness? Went through the settings menu and not seeing any option. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

#16057 27 days ago
Quoted from wayinla:

There is something that sometimes prevents the ball from getting to the garage.

Take the house off and watch a few loop shots.

I’m going to bet that the ball hits the bolts on your diverter. There are a few fixes listed here.

#16058 27 days ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Could you share a photo of it in the cabinet, and a close up of how you soldered the wires to the lugs.
Thanks so much!

Quick and dirty hand thru the coindoor, sure. I just matched wires to the existing lugs on the old switch one wire at a time. I won’t have a ton of time this week to lift the playfield (and I’m not unscrewing it to get a better view lol. I never want to touch this again)

1DA39537-CF27-4A42-8F81-9A20F203134A (resized).jpegC2F887FE-BF6F-4F47-B7CD-0E23F5D9A4E6 (resized).jpeg
#16059 27 days ago
Quoted from Lounge:

Take the house off and watch a few loop shots.
I’m going to bet that the ball hits the bolts on your diverter. There are a few fixes listed here.

Thanks. Took the ramps off and the house. I taped a piece of thin PETG plastic using packing tape to the diverter just so it covers the bolts. It made a smoother transition from the rail to the diverter and seemed to make a difference.

I also did the same to near the beginning of the outer right loop. There’s a post that has a rubber grommet on it that seems to deflect the ball. Another PETG fix and I think that loop is now much better.

#16060 27 days ago
Quoted from wayinla:

Thanks. Took the ramps off and the house. I taped a piece of thin PETG plastic using packing tape to the diverter just so it covers the bolts. It made a smoother transition from the rail to the diverter and seemed to make a difference.
I also did the same to near the beginning of the outer right loop. There’s a post that has a rubber grommet on it that seems to deflect the ball. Another PETG fix and I think that loop is now much better.

Any pictures?

#16061 27 days ago

No pics of behind the garage but this is the post I used as a guide:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/296#post-6364091

This is a quick pic of the other fix. Sorry it’s after putting the ramp back on.

4663EA67-1F75-4EF4-B60E-F522285755C1 (resized).jpeg
#16062 27 days ago
Quoted from wayinla:

This is a quick pic of the other fix

I was having issues with that right orbit too. But, I found that just removing the rubber there seems to have mostly resolved the issue. If I have a wonky shot that is a little to the left of the orbit it still can get hung up, but it happens far less often without that rubber.

#16063 27 days ago
Quoted from Var1AbL3:

I was having issues with that right orbit too. But, I found that just removing the rubber there seems to have mostly resolved the issue. If I have a wonky shot that is a little to the left of the orbit it still can get hung up, but it happens far less often without that rubber.

Thanks, I’ll give it a try!

#16064 27 days ago
Quoted from MutterFudder:

Quick and dirty hand thru the coindoor, sure. I just matched wires to the existing lugs on the old switch one wire at a time. I won’t have a ton of time this week to lift the playfield (and I’m not unscrewing it to get a better view lol. I never want to touch this again)
[quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks for the photos brother!

Did you use the 3D printed base that the original switch was sitting on?

Also, what screws did you use?

It doesn't look like you had a lot of slack on those wires, which is sort of how my game is. I might just solder some wires to switch outside of the machine, and then connect the wire ends in the cabinet and put tubing on it.

Cheers!

#16065 27 days ago

Also, wanted to just quickly say that I got one of the MRS switches from Sonic and it works brilliantly.

I was having an issue with shots registering around the inner loop, and despite putting washers under the switches, I could not get it to work without issue.

The MRS fixed this, and I'm even ordering one more for the second switch in that loop.

#16066 27 days ago

Stoked for my set of 4 to arrive tomorrow.

Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Also, wanted to just quickly say that I got one of the MRS switches from Sonic and it works brilliantly.
I was having an issue with shots registering around the inner loop, and despite putting washers under the switches, I could not get it to work without issue.
The MRS fixed this, and I'm even ordering one more for the second switch in that loop.

#16067 27 days ago
Quoted from Var1AbL3:

I was having issues with that right orbit too. But, I found that just removing the rubber there seems to have mostly resolved the issue. If I have a wonky shot that is a little to the left of the orbit it still can get hung up, but it happens far less often without that rubber.

Great tip! Just removed mine. Should have thought to do it sooner.

#16068 26 days ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Thanks for the photos brother!
Did you use the 3D printed base that the original switch was sitting on?
Also, what screws did you use?
It doesn't look like you had a lot of slack on those wires, which is sort of how my game is. I might just solder some wires to switch outside of the machine, and then connect the wire ends in the cabinet and put tubing on it.
Cheers!

Ended up using the same screws -- the stern switch thickness was roughly the same as the old switch with the 3d printed base on it. I didn't use the base and went right against the cabinet, adjusted for leaf height to the flipper (which lined up with those pilot holes for me). Good luck with your changeover!

#16069 26 days ago

Has anybody had any issues with their spinner? Mine would rip like nobodies business but now all of the sudden it barely goes around a few times. It doesn't feel like its hanging up. Also my right speaker goes in and out sometimes.

#16070 26 days ago
Quoted from rdonohue13:

Has anybody had any issues with their spinner? Mine would rip like nobodies business but now all of the sudden it barely goes around a few times. It doesn't feel like its hanging up. Also my right speaker goes in and out sometimes.

Put a tiny drop of this on the bearing surfaces:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Super-Lube-7ml-Precision-Oiler-Oil-with-Syncolon-PTFE-Lubricant-Per-Each-51010/202932717

#16071 26 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Put a tiny drop of this on the spinner bearing surfaces:
amazon.com link »

We may need to pass that around among the group. lol. "Please use sparingly".

#16072 26 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Put a tiny drop of this on the spinner bearing surfaces:
amazon.com link »

Spinner isn't that important lol.

#16073 26 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Put a tiny drop of this on the spinner bearing surfaces:
amazon.com link »

Lot of 400, for $1,400. Am I crazy, or is that a lot of lube?

#16074 26 days ago

You’re my boy Blue!

pasted_image (resized).jpeg

#16075 26 days ago
Quoted from DNO:

Lot of 400, for $1,400. Am I crazy, or is that a lot of lube?

Nah, this is a lot of lube.

amazon.com link »

#16076 26 days ago
Quoted from rdonohue13:

Also my right speaker goes in and out sometimes.

I had the same problem with my left speaker so I reflowed the connections at the speaker and they've it's been good since.

#16077 26 days ago
Quoted from DNO:

Lot of 400, for $1,400. Am I crazy, or is that a lot of lube?

Lol i edited it to point to home depot now.

#16078 26 days ago
Quoted from DNO:

Lot of 400, for $1,400. Am I crazy, or is that a lot of lube?

Not for chicks in their 90s. Joan Rivers said her vag was like a sponge. Get in a bathtub and suddenly the water was gone.

14
#16079 25 days ago

Finally 649 made it home

image (resized).jpg
#16080 25 days ago
Quoted from Ch4p3l:

Finally 649 made it home[quoted image]

is that the last BloodSucker?

#16081 25 days ago

I’m assuming it is. Well worth the wait. Now can’t wait for Halloween.

#16082 25 days ago

Was it built 649th?

#16083 20 days ago

I sold about half of the metal ship mounts.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/219#post-6139839

In order to close these out (so they aren't just sitting around) I'm going to sell these at cost. $11 shipped anywhere in the world. If you're on the fence at all, buy now because I won't be running them again.

metal_ship_mount (resized).png
#16084 20 days ago

I'm in.

PM on the way.

#16085 20 days ago

I'm in too.

PM sent

#16086 20 days ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

I sold about half of the metal ship mounts.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/219#post-6139839
In order to close these out (so they aren't just sitting around) I'm going to sell these at cost. $11 shipped anywhere in the world. If you're on the fence at all, buy now because I won't be running them again.[quoted image]

This works great and I know some people didn’t like it because it’s not clear like the plastic but honestly you don’t even notice it! And, I don’t need to worry about replacing another broken plastic.

Thanks toyotaboy

#16087 20 days ago

Having seen that "jankywood" is now for sale, I sure am hoping EP got his full build machine. Having the whitewood for sale is a bit scary terry that we won't get more updates. Just a thought, could I be very incorrect here.

#16088 20 days ago

After being installed since I received Jerry Edition 231 last November, my death crystal mod met its demise as a result from a fatal blow of an über-rare air ball. Snapped right off at the connection point.

Pinball Life looks to no longer carry.

xfassa , fingers crossed

574D7E94-1735-4C09-B440-488C69B1D536 (resized).jpeg
#16089 20 days ago
Quoted from DruTheFu:

After being installed since I received Jerry Edition 231 last November, my death crystal mod met its demise as a result from a fatal blow of an über-rare air ball. Snapped right off at the connection point.
Pinball Life looks to no longer carry.
xfassa , fingers crossed [quoted image]

Bummer. Can it be glued in place or to the mount?

#16090 20 days ago

Has anybody installed Neo Fusion on Rick and Morty yet? I'm just curious to see where they hooked up the Orion's belt. Going to do it this weekend (hopeful).

#16091 20 days ago
Quoted from 6S3NC3:

Has anybody installed Neo Fusion on Rick and Morty yet? I'm just curious to see where they hooked up the Orion's belt. Going to do it this weekend (hopeful).

I installed basic pinstadiums. Never thought I needed it until I got my GNR. Then coming back to R&M and it seemed like I was playing it nearly pitch black

#16092 20 days ago

Major shout out to xfassa for being a righteous one. So glad to have supported his work with the blue death crystal scoop mod. Most awesome customer service with my recent issue, I’ll one day pay back the goodwill in the community because he inspired good vibes.

13
#16093 19 days ago
Quoted from northerndude:

Having seen that "jankywood" is now for sale, I sure am hoping EP got his full build machine. Having the whitewood for sale is a bit scary terry that we won't get more updates. Just a thought, could I be very incorrect here.

Eric has his production game and has had it for a while now.
--Scott

#16094 19 days ago

I have a question since there is no schematics for my R&M machine. The RGB light that sits in the pop bumper (opposite the sling) has given up the ghost and either gives off NO light or will flicker sometimes at best. I checked all the connections and they seem fine. As far as I can tell (without taking it apart since I don't have the replacement part) the bulb itself is part of the little board. If I am correct and it is a new RGB board I need does anyone here know the part number? Or a link to it on one of the parts resellers? If I am wrong please educate me, the game is still playable but you can't tell when megaseeds are available at the pop bumper. Not a game stopper but not the best situation either.

Thanks in advance,
John

#16095 19 days ago
Quoted from Var1AbL3:

I have a question since there is no schematics for my R&M machine. The RGB light that sits in the pop bumper (opposite the sling) has given up the ghost and either gives off NO light or will flicker sometimes at best. I checked all the connections and they seem fine. As far as I can tell (without taking it apart since I don't have the replacement part) the bulb itself is part of the little board. If I am correct and it is a new RGB board I need does anyone here know the part number? Or a link to it on one of the parts resellers? If I am wrong please educate me, the game is still playable but you can't tell when megaseeds are available at the pop bumper. Not a game stopper but not the best situation either.
Thanks in advance,
John

Hey John. I had the same problem. Actually this is the second time I have had it. One of the wires is not making contact. You need to take the top off the pop bumper and see where the break is and then solder that back. Not the easiest place to solder but it can be done.

#16096 19 days ago
Quoted from Var1AbL3:

I have a question since there is no schematics for my R&M machine. The RGB light that sits in the pop bumper (opposite the sling) has given up the ghost and either gives off NO light or will flicker sometimes at best. I checked all the connections and they seem fine. As far as I can tell (without taking it apart since I don't have the replacement part) the bulb itself is part of the little board. If I am correct and it is a new RGB board I need does anyone here know the part number? Or a link to it on one of the parts resellers? If I am wrong please educate me, the game is still playable but you can't tell when megaseeds are available at the pop bumper. Not a game stopper but not the best situation either.
Thanks in advance,
John

Someone can correct me if I am wrong, but I thought it was this: https://www.pinballlife.com/p-roc-rgb-pop-bumper-board-assembly.html

#16097 19 days ago
Quoted from Jigz:

Someone can correct me if I am wrong, but I thought it was this: https://www.pinballlife.com/p-roc-rgb-pop-bumper-board-assembly.html

That’s the right one. Have been through two so far on our routed machine (around 4K plays)
Went ahead and ordered 10mm RGB LEDs so just replace the led bulb itself (the legs have been breaking)

#16098 19 days ago
Quoted from Palmer:

Hey John. I had the same problem. Actually this is the second time I have had it. One of the wires is not making contact. You need to take the top off the pop bumper and see where the break is and then solder that back. Not the easiest place to solder but it can be done.

I will check this first, but will probably order a backup anyway since it seems to be a common problem. Not surprised, when a game gets rocking that pop bumper gets a LOT of action.

#16099 19 days ago
Quoted from Jigz:

Someone can correct me if I am wrong, but I thought it was this: https://www.pinballlife.com/p-roc-rgb-pop-bumper-board-assembly.html

That is the right one! I would recommend putting a 3/8 OD rubber rings between the PCB and the pop body to help dampen the vibration on each side. You can slip them on under the PCB on the pop body screws. Vibration is a killer inside this pop.

Kinda like this (I am a horrible MSPaint Artist):
pasted_image (resized).png

--Scott

#16100 19 days ago

Scott, by chance, would that happen to be a screenshot of the coming user manual?

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