Thank you very much for your offer but shipping to germany will take too long.

I want to play the Game and will order today from a local shop.

This customer, not only put MRS' in the problematic upper quadrant of the playfield - but also at the in/out-lanes and the shooter lane! Looks good - probably plays ridiculously fast.

Matt
M&M Creations

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Probably easier to wax too! Would be nice to lay down a uniform layer of wax without goobering up all the wire switches!

Speaking of MRs while i had the glass off i did some testing. Indeed my upper right MRS grabs the ball if it passes over it slow enough. You can see its unfluence sometimes on launch...but there are times it completly stops the ball. I think a little wedge between it and the pf ahould remedy this. Havent noticed this on the others.

The future of pinball is now! I love these things!

This is good to know.

I have the 3 MRS in a box on top of my game in case i actually set it up, as well as all the other must have mods.

Maybe a washer or layer of thick fish paper?

Gotta make allowances for the thin playfield.

Im not aware that anyone else has seen this so hard to say it is normal

Doing my inlanes this week good stuff Matt.

7th Episode
25th August 2021
Melbourne Lockdown 6.0
Spooky's Rick & Morty

My boys COVID hobby, please subscribe and make his day

Smart kid, very articulate.
Love his munchkin sized Aussie accent

Yeah that kid of yours is pretty friggen' adorable. Hearing him sing along to Moonmen is classic.

Good job mate!

.

Cheers ND

Cheers Manic He does love Moonmen haha!

You won't be sorry, my machine is the one in Matt's post but note I swapped two of the uppers for the two inlane switches since that photo was posted. You will want the inlane switches to face down towards the player to avoid interference with the antigravity magnet on the right side.

I'm super happy with the switches...even the lower ones which I understand are mostly cosmetic. The ball does move a bit faster though given it doesn't have to strike a piece of metal when going over the switches.

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Installed a 12v adjustable speed fan with heatsink to the Left Flipper (number 1), nothing on the right flipper (number 2) and had Ambient temperature as a reference (number 3). After 45 minutes of play I peaked at around 170 deg F on the right flipper and just under 90 deg F on the left flipper.

I could barely hit the left ramp after 45 minutes. Heatsink fans is a huge improvement! I'm going to be making a set of these for every machine!

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Flipper fade is real. Your result is a little lower than the testing done in March on the newer code for the Tibetan Breeze cooling kit, and higher than the testing done on last year's code. A player's style of play has a lot to do with how hot the coils get and how fast. A trap player will get them hotter faster.

One tip if you're DIYing it, though. I wouldn't recommend a heat sink on the actual coil body. If that coil wrapper under the heat sink gets crunchy over time and is breached, metal heat sink against metal coil windings would not be good. A fan pushing enough CFM over the coil body doesn't need a heat sink anyway. If the fan is physically on the heatsink which is on the coil, vibration over time may kill the fan - another negative for that approach. That's the kind of problem I had with the old V1 Tibetan Breeze kits before I redesigned them, although that was slightly different since the fan bracket was perpendicular to the coil, so it took more of the force.

Here's the temp graph of a stock, uncooled R&M for all three flippers over time with March 2021 code. In my experience, the threshold of perceptible fade for most people is around 140F, but if you're really dialed into it, you could tell around 130F when the shot timings change but you can still make them.
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Looks good!! Thanks for the thumbs up.

Matt & Dan

Thanks PinMonk!

There's a couple tweaks I need to do but I want to get rid of the paper wrapper all together. Fatigue life testing is very time intensive, but the cost, ease, life span, and modularity of these will make it justifiable to let time tell.

In the latest update, are the cable clip sounds in attract mode not respecting the setting? Sometimes I have the game on, and the clips set at volume 1, but they are way louder than the game which is set at 4 (gotta be quiet when the baby sleeps!) Grateful for all the hard work on the latest update, so no worries.

Is everyone else getting the messed up callout during Scary Terry, "He sure says bitch a lot! Yip!" a lot? (ST's line getting cut way short)

I wonder if it's related to the rare hangs and resets. Don't those usually happen during Scary Terry?

I just received the replacement flipper bushings from Spooky but no instructions. How hard are they to replace?

Have you ever done a flipper rebuild? If not, see Vid's guide.

...come on, - strange question for someone who has been in the hobby for so long.

Never done a flipper rebuild. I’ll check out Vids video.

It's a thread on pinside.

I just installed these new flipper bushings this past weekend. This was my very first time messing with any flipper hardware replacement, and yes, I was a bit intimidated. “Don’t F this up!” But it was actually really easy to disassemble and reassemble.

What took the most time and effort was adjusting the flipper angles while tightening, and getting the gaps below and above the play field. I used a credit card since I didn’t have the $0.59 flipper gauge tool from Pinball Life. I didn’t want to over-tighten the flipper hardware, so my flippers would stick up during test play. Adjust, test, repeat until I had the hex bolt and nut tightened just enough where everything was righteous.

You got this!

Uugh - I literally just added the switches magnets up and ran a switch test. Did NOT test the magna-save. Lesson learned.

I’ll be switching them tomorrow.

Sorry about that Tom - orlandu81 was the first to discover this - so going forward we'll be sure to let folks know that on inlanes - you won't notice it by doing the magna save test either - it's only when the ball is actually held on the magna-save - it sort of acts like an antenna.....to the inlane MRS....just roll it and it'll be fine..

Matt

Did you do 2 or all 3 flippers?

I did all 3.

Since there was no toothpick hole at the upper flipper, I aligned it so that the tip is level with the metal guide rail, and still covering the majority of Pickle Rick.

Edit: and bomb diggity, we got another R&M NorCal owner!

Are you sure it is not just waiting for you to shoot the scoop?

Afaik this callout is associated with completing the first phase of ST, comes when it is time to shoot the scoop.

Morty will call this out, on repeat, until you actually shoot the scoop. Once the running is all completed you need to hit scoop and progress to Hiding.

Hes right though..this callout has always done this for as long as i can remember. There seem to be more of these type of cutoffs in the later codes. I need to start tracking them.

No worries, Matt. I’ve had this game apart so much I can pretty much do it in my sleep.

Spooky needs to hire you : ) !

Matt

Has anyone with the blue crystal mod tried plugging it in elsewhere that might be more controlled? I bought it and I love the detail, it's a big aesthetic improvement over the stock "ship post" even when off, and it works great - I absolutely have no complaint or fault to pick with the product.

But, I sadly discovered the constant-on blue light makes the game headache-inducing unplayable to me. Plus it's a bit of a distraction from the light shows IMO. But if it could flash, etc like the OEM crystals on the left, or perhaps tied into the lock shots, etc, that would be great! I'd be willing to poke around myself, but the lack of schematic documentation and my unfamiliarity with Proc make me hesitant - I could make reasonably educated assumptions but don't want to fry something. Wondering if someone smarter than me has any insights to share?

Could it be literally as simple as tapping into one of the controlled lamp lines I mentioned, or would that add too much load to the associated PROC node?

I’m interested to know this too, I have the mod, but I haven’t installed it yet.

I would prefer for it to NOT be on 100% of the time. Maybe there a way to wire it to the existing crystals by the trough for the garage shot exit?

Can anyone confirm if these are the switches used on our game?

https://www.pinballlife.com/rollover-switch-with-mounting-bracket.html

Looks like it to me. The only difference I see is that mine were Cherry brand.
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Edit: Nevermind, they are also Cherry on pinballlife. I just had to take it out of the mount to see the other side like the photo on there.

Me three....

LOL. Come on now, is it really that bad? In all honesty, it really came down to simplicity of install. I wanted a mod that could be installed by any skill level. Yes, it is possible to make a version that ties into the stock crystal lighting circuit. However, it is a much more difficult install. Personally, I prefer the mod to be always on. Of course, I may have a biased opinion.

Edit: Actually, I was thinking about my original prototype when I made the more difficult to install comment. In order to make a flasher only version that ties into the stock crystal, it would be as simple as sourcing a 12v led strip (to replace the current strip) and fabricating a new wiring harness.

Unfortunately, in my own personal case, yeah... I wasn't expecting it to be that intense. I'm sure I'm an edge case since I'm apparently part-Vampire with eyes that are stupidly sensitive to particular light scenarios. Same reason I don't use LED flashers and have walked away from numerous location games that had them. So in this case turns out that with my height/posture, the intense blue LED array is pretty much aimed in my direct line-of-sight, with glass glare added on, all the time with no relief But just as there's nothing inherently wrong with LED flashers, I'm not blaming your product at all. Its design and instructions are great (and I'd never heard of those lever-nuts before either so that was cool).

I just unplugged the light and the crystals still look better than the post as I said. But seems like a happy medium must exist somehow so if you can pass along the alternate-install guide to hook to the left crystal, I'd appreciate it. I might already have some suitable LED strip fragments too.

Depending on what wavelength and frequency of blue light the LED is, yes, it can be. Blue light around 455nm and below can be damaging to eyes, and the longer the exposure, the more chance of problems. Since blue light is much higher energy than light at the other end of the spectrum, headaches are not out of the question with longer exposure.

So the answer to your question is...maybe. If people are having a bad reaction to the current LED color, it would be worth investigating what wavelength and frequency you're using.

I'm having a positive visual reaction, love it!
Might try to sync with the flasher though.

Understood. I'm happy to help you get the mod to where you need it. We can figure it out and share with the rest of the community. I will try and get a prototype working this weekend. Thanks!

I think I was one of the first to buy this awesome mod. I, however, would be interested in it being tied to the other crystals as compared to being on all the time as well.

Hey guys where do you install the 5th ball in this game? Thanks

Waaaay up in the portal hole (in the garage)

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It goes into the portal in upper left. You can just drop it in the trough and Rick will adjust his balls as necessary to put it there when you play.

Any recommendations on a specific type of usb stick to use to update code? I received the game today and tried using the stick that I update all my other games with but it doesn’t seem to work on Rick and morty. Thanks.