(Topic ID: 257850)

Official Rick and Morty Club - You are not like other carbon based life forms.

By TheNoTrashCougar

4 years ago


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  • Latest reply 34 hours ago by zebpin61
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106 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 20,183 posts in this topic. You are on page 305 of 404.
#15201 2 years ago
Quoted from mariobeans:

Pretty sure those issues trace back to this connector
[quoted image]

Did you check the transistors next to that connector to see if any are blown?

#15202 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Did you check the transistors next to that connector to see if any are blown?

I did not, what is the proper way to test them?

#15203 2 years ago
Quoted from mariobeans:

I did not, what is the proper way to test them?

Look up the part number printed on the transistor so you know if you're dealing with an NPN or PNP, etc transistor.

You need a multimeter. Set it to ohms.

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_a_Transistor.2C_Silicon_Controlled_Rectifier_.28SCR.29_or_Field_Effect_Transistor_.28FET.29

#15204 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Look up the part number printed on the transistor so you know if you're dealing with an NPN or PNP, etc transistor.
You need a multimeter. Set it to ohms.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_a_Transistor.2C_Silicon_Controlled_Rectifier_.28SCR.29_or_Field_Effect_Transistor_.28FET.29

IRL540N N channel transistor is what I found. Thanks NPN correct?

#15205 2 years ago
Quoted from mariobeans:

IRL540N N channel transistor is what I found. Thanks NPN correct?

So far the first transistor isn't giving me a proper diode reading. ive tested one that I know work and get a .6 reading.

So I know one is bad but need to remove the board so I can reach the other pins

Actually now other transistors im assuming work aren't giving me reading. I was told to run a diode test and look for readings .6-.9

#15206 2 years ago
Quoted from mariobeans:

So far the first transistor isn't giving me a proper diode reading. ive tested one that I know work and get a .6 reading.
So I know one is bad but need to remove the board so I can reach the other pins
Actually now other transistors im assuming work aren't giving me reading. I was told to run a diode test and look for readings .6-.9

You can bend those mosfets forward in the stack which should allow you to reach the pins of each one. Are you testing another IRL540N to get the reading on the one you know works?

#15207 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

You can bend those mosfets forward in the stack which should allow you to reach the pins of each one. Are you testing another IRL540N to get the reading on the one you know works?

Ya ive been bending them down. some give me correct readings and some don't. Good possibility im testing incorrectly due to how complicated testing transistors can be

#15208 2 years ago

This is the solution we came up with to prevent the ball from getting stuck on the apron bracket. We tried a few different methods (spacers, shims, wedges) to work around the existing bracket but in the end we kept saying that the solution we would want would improve the look, not work around it. The bracket has front to back adjustment and can be cantered so it can be aligned to the apron using the stock holes. It gets rid of the clear plastic under the bracket as well. It reduces the amount the bracket sticks out of the apron by about 60%. We'll produce these in 100% infill PLA+.

https://pinballmods.co/rick-and-morty-pinball-mods/apron-bracket-upgrade

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#15209 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Spinner and shot to the left of the left ramp are from the upper flipper. Left ramp is hit from right flipper.
If these shots are impossible, adjustments are needed to your game. Tons of documentation in this thread on how to improve the flippers and alignment of the shots.

I finally was able to play a game with the corrections / fixes made and what a world of difference it made. Can now hit the spinner shot with no problem and even hit the garage shot from the side flipper. Ramp shot still hard but slightly easier.

It's nice to be able to hit shots without feeling lucky.

13
#15210 2 years ago

Rick and Morty #660 in my house! What a great game.

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#15211 2 years ago

Hey guys,

so now I made the first games on the machine and it worked.

After a while (about 5 games) the game (Ball2) ends during gameplay and no coils work then it started to count points , same with Ball 3... launched the ball and after a couple of shots i got the match sequenze.

It seems something went wrong.

I checked all cables and then I looked at the power supply(5V/12V) in the cab. And it was really hot. So could it be that the power supply has a problem?

#15212 2 years ago

Problem solved - added a 120mm Fan to the Power supply and now it's stable. The psu ist about 29°C.

#15213 2 years ago
Quoted from MightyGrave:

Problem solved - added a 120mm Fan to the Power supply and now it's stable. The psu ist about 29°C.

so you added an additional fan on top of the original fan?...was the original one running? ...they're quite loud so pretty unmistakalbe if it was running...(unless you upgraded to the pinmonk one)

#15214 2 years ago
Quoted from monkfe:

so you added an additional fan on top of the original fan?...was the original one running? ...they're quite loud so pretty unmistakalbe if it was running...(unless you upgraded to the pinmonk one)

No I added a fan (quick & dirty) on left psu (the meanwell RD-65A) that one is passiv psu

I will later upgrade the 48V psu fan

RMFan (resized).jpegRMFan (resized).jpeg
#15215 2 years ago
Quoted from MightyGrave:

Hey guys,
so now I made the first games on the machine and it worked.
After a while (about 5 games) the game (Ball2) ends during gameplay and no coils work then it started to count points , same with Ball 3... launched the ball and after a couple of shots i got the match sequenze.
It seems something went wrong.
I checked all cables and then I looked at the power supply(5V/12V) in the cab. And it was really hot. So could it be that the power supply has a problem?

The 5v/12v power supply has nothing to do with the coils. Sounds like it just lost track of the ball. I'd check the ball trough.

#15216 2 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

This is the solution we came up with to prevent the ball from getting stuck on the apron bracket. We tried a few different methods (spacers, shims, wedges) to work around the existing bracket but in the end we kept saying that the solution we would want would improve the look, not work around it. The bracket has front to back adjustment and can be cantered so it can be aligned to the apron using the stock holes. It gets rid of the clear plastic under the bracket as well. It reduces the amount the bracket sticks out of the apron by about 60%. We'll produce these in 100% infill PLA+.
https://pinballmods.co/rick-and-morty-pinball-mods/apron-bracket-upgrade
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

All I had to do was put a couple washers at the back of the apron where it connects to the PF hangers. This moves the apron forward a tiny bit and then the mounting tabs can't touch the ball. Looks 100% stock so why re-invent the wheel?

That said your product looks nice.

.

#15217 2 years ago

My trough switches were acting up again, with a drain not registering again.

I thought that it was weird, since I had already resoldered them and it seemed fixed then.

But now I think the problem all along was that the switch bodies were tightened down a bit too tight. Strange that possibility hadn't occurred to me, as I had seen it before on switches in other games. Usually when I tightened one too much myself while replacing it!

I simply loosened them up and retightened them to just barely snug, and no more problems.

#15218 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

The 5v/12v power supply has nothing to do with the coils. Sounds like it just lost track of the ball. I'd check the ball trough.

You're right - the 12/5v psu ist Not for the coils.
The issue was that the Game gone strange.....

the problem was a damn hot psu. And after my little q&d cooling fix the Game was stable for hours.

#15219 2 years ago
Quoted from MightyGrave:

You're right - the 12/5v psu ist Not for the coils.
The issue was that the Game gone strange.....
the problem was a damn hot psu. And after my little q&d cooling fix the Game was stable for hours.

Your problem was a switch issue. It might have been that the small PS was killing the switch matrix, I'm not sure which one powers it. BUT, that power supply should not be "damn hot." Warm? Yes, but if you have one that's really hot, I'd get it replaced rather than try to cool it. Something is wrong internally. It's possible something fell off the playfield into the vent holes and is shorting it, or it's just defective.

#15220 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Your problem was a switch issue. It might have been that the small PS was killing the switch matrix, I'm not sure which one powers it. BUT, that power supply should not be "damn hot." Warm? Yes, but if you have one that's really hot, I'd get it replaced rather than try to cool it. Something is wrong internally. It's possible something fell off the playfield into the vent holes and is shorting it, or it's just defective.

but i dont know how to Track the issue..
And Yes i ordered a new one today. Safety First !

#15221 2 years ago
Quoted from Manic:

All I had to do was put a couple washers at the back of the apron where it connects to the PF hangers. This moves the apron forward a tiny bit and then the mounting tabs can't touch the ball. Looks 100% stock so why re-invent the wheel?
That said your product looks nice.
.

Mine got a rubber gromet/washer right there in 2 places. Worked a treat also.

#15222 2 years ago

I have got one Rick and Morty custom pingulp that I painted available now. This will be the last one available from me for quite some time as I am completely overwhelmed with side projects and will not be taking on any more projects for the foreseeable future. I can put either a left or right side bracket on it. The mounting bracket is powder coated the same color purple as the blood suckers trim. Price is $60 shipped (if shipped within the US).

979E1DA5-0714-420C-925F-EA835079ADA9 (resized).jpeg979E1DA5-0714-420C-925F-EA835079ADA9 (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

#15223 2 years ago
Quoted from Manic:

All I had to do was put a couple washers at the back of the apron where it connects to the PF hangers. This moves the apron forward a tiny bit and then the mounting tabs can't touch the ball. Looks 100% stock so why re-invent the wheel?
That said your product looks nice.
.

I think the stock look is underwhelming, I guess. Seems like a poor design choice, I'd rather hide it.

#15224 2 years ago

Hi Everyone!

Even game plays fine out of the box... Here are my little Modifications:

Apron: add missing post (ball could have get stuck and even completely fit through the gap) and file down metal bracket.

Scoop/ship: design and print balltrap stopper. Add rubber buffer under ship (I think you can even use standard mini post rubber).

Here are the 3d files fitting my mashine:

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/bArxoOs9hQD

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/61CfNuiKzjX

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/4CY3o2XZiad

Have fun
Trektobby

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#15225 2 years ago

I know this has been discussed in the past but I still can't seem to dial in the scoop. I've lowered the mech with washers, added rubber tubbing along the entry rails, and tried bending the hood forward and backward, but we still get rejects on average 3 out of 4 shots? Any other suggestions?

#15226 2 years ago
Quoted from arzoo:

I know this has been discussed in the past but I still can't seem to dial in the scoop. I've lowered the mech with washers, added rubber tubbing along the entry rails, and tried bending the hood forward and backward, but we still get rejects on average 3 out of 4 shots? Any other suggestions?

Mine is basically as shipped. Washers under front from factory. Has a playfield protector, which I guess might change things somehow (but it is not even 1/32" thick). Works a treat, rarely get rejects.

What is your flipper power at?

Have you played with the main flipper power set to like 26?

#15227 2 years ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

Also notice your playfield looks to be all the way to the right in the cabinet. Big gap on the left side?
Look out none of the flipper switches contact any playfield bits like the launch plunger. Just something that might be worth a check. There isn't alot of spare room in there.

I've checked it a couple of times and I thought I had plenty of clearance there but... I had played a lot without blowing the fuse
and then I moved the playfield around a bit messing with the ball hang-up I had on the apron and promptly blew the fuse... hmmmmmm... I'll recheck the switches again tonight.

I checked the switch clearance again. I don't see any problems with either the flipper switches or the Anti-Gravity switch. Also, there is very little left to right play with the playfield so I doubt its position is causing the short.

After I made a few unrelated adjustments, I played several games without blowing a fuse. Very frustrating.

#15228 2 years ago
Quoted from mjthompson:

I checked the switch clearance again. I don't see any problems with either the flipper switches or the Anti-Gravity switch. Also, there is very little left to right play with the playfield so I doubt its position is causing the short.
After I made a few unrelated adjustments, I played several games without blowing a fuse. Very frustrating.

Going out on a limb here, but, can you by chance use the right flipper AND activate the magnet at the same time?

#15229 2 years ago
Quoted from mjthompson:

I checked the switch clearance again. I don't see any problems with either the flipper switches or the Anti-Gravity switch. Also, there is very little left to right play with the playfield so I doubt its position is causing the short.
After I made a few unrelated adjustments, I played several games without blowing a fuse. Very frustrating.

Quoted from Zablon:

Going out on a limb here, but, can you by chance use the right flipper AND activate the magnet at the same time?

I thought about that too. So, when the fuse was blowing more often, I intentionally quit using the magnet altogether and still blew the fuse.

#15230 2 years ago

Here's how to have Everything handed to you and then throw it all away!!

About 3:30 is starts to unfold ...

One way to get 5 balls out and still fail miserably Lol

#15231 2 years ago
Quoted from mjthompson:

I thought about that too. So, when the fuse was blowing more often, I intentionally quit using the magnet altogether and still blew the fuse.

I think there is a software lockout that prevents them from being activated simultaneously.

Hardware limitations.

#15232 2 years ago
Quoted from trilogybeer:

I have got one Rick and Morty custom pingulp that I painted available now. This will be the last one available from me for quite some time as I am completely overwhelmed with side projects and will not be taking on any more projects for the foreseeable future. I can put either a left or right side bracket on it. The mounting bracket is powder coated the same color purple as the blood suckers trim. Price is $60 shipped (if shipped within the US).
[quoted image][quoted image]

I have one of these. Very high quality paint job. Makes a great addition to the pin!

#15233 2 years ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

Here's how to have Everything handed to you and then throw it all away!!

About 3:30 is starts to unfold ...
One way to get 5 balls out and still fail miserably Lol

Hahaha. I did this exact same thing last night (meseeks multiball plus gromflormite multi), except I had one of those moments when 2 balls went into the outlane, and 3 balls did that thing where they all fight to go drain down the middle and succeed... leaving you with nothing. The whisper of "LOSER" as the megaseeds counted my pitiful bonus was especially fitting.

#15234 2 years ago

Here is that apron bracket if you want to print it yourself, open source for personal use. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4916369

#15235 2 years ago

Does anyone think there will be another update? We’re on almost 2.5 months. I know they are onto new games, and I understand development needs to stop, but there is so much material. And one more time, thank you Erik for coding this all yourself!!

Also. Please tell me there is a Mr. Nimbus figure somewhere??

#15236 2 years ago
Quoted from dnapac:

I have one of these. Very high quality paint job. Makes a great addition to the pin!

Thank you! The pingulp has sold and I hope the buyer is happy with it as well.

#15237 2 years ago
Quoted from Jherre6:

Does anyone think there will be another update? We’re on almost 2.5 months. I know they are onto new games, and I understand development needs to stop, but there is so much material. And one more time, thank you Erik for coding this all yourself!!
Also. Please tell me there is a Mr. Nimbus figure somewhere??

I thought Eric indicated in a recent post there would be another update.

#15238 2 years ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

Mine is basically as shipped. Washers under front from factory. Has a playfield protector, which I guess might change things somehow (but it is not even 1/32" thick). Works a treat, rarely get rejects.
What is your flipper power at?
Have you played with the main flipper power set to like 26?

I'm pretty sure my lower flipper strength is set to the defaults, I'll have to check.

#15239 2 years ago
Quoted from Jherre6:

Does anyone think there will be another update? We’re on almost 2.5 months. I know they are onto new games, and I understand development needs to stop, but there is so much material. And one more time, thank you Erik for coding this all yourself!!
Also. Please tell me there is a Mr. Nimbus figure somewhere??

Stern goes 18 months on a barely functional machine with no code updates and you are worried at the 2.5 month mark on a machine loaded with content already?

At least one more update is coming. Relax.

#15240 2 years ago
Quoted from arzoo:

I'm pretty sure my lower flipper strength is set to the defaults, I'll have to check.

If I recall default was 30?

At 30 I found the ball too lively. Too much power. Only time I really noticed any scoop reject problem, when I had over exuberant flipper power.

Try lowering power and see what happens. Needs flipper bats at the right height though.

#15241 2 years ago

What is now needed is a turkey mode

#15242 2 years ago

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fs-spider-man-plastics-decals-rampampm-poster-decals-pinfes#post-6409342

Rick and Morty Poster 36"x48" - $80 available at pinfest (shipping extra) Poster is same as framed 11x17 poster (not for sale)
R&M Target Decals - $35 - available at pinfest (shipping extra)

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#15243 2 years ago
Quoted from Good-Times:

What is now needed is a turkey mode

I'd rather have a mode saving New York from the French robo-assassin hidden in the Statue of Liberty.

#15244 2 years ago

Man, I'm loving this game! It is incredibly good. Question on the screen. It seems like the optimal viewing angle is just above the lockdown bar. Has anyone tilted the screen or made any other mods to center it better? I guess some have replaced it with an LG, but it isn't bad, just seems to pop more at the center, like most LCDs. Maybe I'll experiment with the position.

#15245 2 years ago

Did you make adjustments to it yet? The default settings aren't optimal.

#15246 2 years ago
Quoted from dts:

Man, I'm loving this game! It is incredibly good. Question on the screen. It seems like the optimal viewing angle is just above the lockdown bar. Has anyone tilted the screen or made any other mods to center it better? I guess some have replaced it with an LG, but it isn't bad, just seems to pop more at the center, like most LCDs. Maybe I'll experiment with the position.

It's been bugging me for a while. I meant to look at tipping it but it just seems like not the highest quality and I figured I'd just swap it at some point.

#15247 2 years ago
Quoted from Zablon:

Did you make adjustments to it yet? The default settings aren't optimal.

I have thought about doing this…and a ways back in this thread, someone did do it with instructions. That said, I adjusted the brightness and contrast…I think to 100% on constrast, and it has made a huge difference with not looking washed out. Play with the settings and don’t be afraid to be aggressive with settings.

Oops. Meant to reply to dts

#15248 2 years ago
Quoted from Zablon:

Did you make adjustments to it yet? The default settings aren't optimal.

Quoted from harryhoudini:

It's been bugging me for a while. I meant to look at tipping it but it just seems like not the highest quality and I figured I'd just swap it at some point.

Quoted from dnapac:

I have thought about doing this…and a ways back in this thread, someone did do it with instructions. That said, I adjusted the brightness and contrast…I think to 100% on constrast, and it has made a huge difference with not looking washed out. Play with the settings and don’t be afraid to be aggressive with settings.
Oops. Meant to reply to dts

Thanks guys, I'll play around with the settings before considering a swap!

#15249 2 years ago
Quoted from dts:

It seems like the optimal viewing angle is just above the lockdown bar.

I felt the same when I unboxed it, but then I made the adjustments to brightness and contrast as noted in the Key Post and it improved the viewing angle 100%.

It still looks a smidge better if I hunch down, but not enough to make me feel like I need to do anything else.

#15250 2 years ago
Quoted from dts:

Thanks guys, I'll play around with the settings before considering a swap!

I think there’s a key post with settings that worked for me.

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