(Topic ID: 257850)
Linked Games
Rick and Morty (Blood Sucker Edition)
Spooky Pinball, 2020-
Rick and Morty (Standard)
Spooky Pinball, 2020
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Recklinghausen
Quoted from MightyGrave:So my RM BSE 598 landed.
But I have a question about the 3D print quality from the megaseed tree. Here is how mine look - not really happy with it
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What's your thoughts and how does your megaseed tree look like?
Is there any way to make it look better?
[quoted image][quoted image]
Athens, OH
Quoted from MightyGrave:So my RM BSE 598 landed.
But I have a question about the 3D print quality from the megaseed tree. Here is how mine look - not really happy with it .
What's your thoughts and how does your megaseed tree look like?
Is there any way to make it look better?
[quoted image][quoted image]
Email Spooky, I am sure they would toss you a better looking one in the mail.
Quoted from Jigz:Email Spooky, I am sure they would toss you a better looking one in the mail.
Agreed, Spooky will replace that no problem!
Here is a picture of mine. Similar to yours, looks like it could break at any moment.
I took mine off the machine and rubbed in some 30 minute epoxy into all the open cracks / spaces.
To any onlooker it probably looked like I was wanking it off. 
I'm hoping the Epoxy will help. If not, I will probably just replace mine with a triangular wooden dowel or something more fit for purpose.
If I ask Spooky for a replacement, I might as well just ask for 5, these are fragile little things!
IMG_20210403_154209043 (resized).jpg^ This...
My tree broke the first time an air ball hit it. They are not durable enough to be a ramp support and eventually will break over time. The upgraded one that PMC is making has an actual metal post in the middle that is the ramp support and the tree that sits around it is decorative only. Plus, it looks better and comes with a top.
They are selling them for too much in my opinion, but it is a one time purchase and is made the way Spooky should have done it from the start. So I bit the bullet.
Does anyone know if Spooky ever built any of the Rick and Morty machines with the "fixed" flipper bushings? If so what number did they start fixing that issue? I have the x-spacers discussed on here, but want to be 100% sure my machine doesn't have the shorter flipper bushings before I install them. Is there a way to tell? My understanding is if a more than a credit card can fit between bats and PF then it is too high. I know with the previous software update (not the latest) I had a LOT of problems with flipper hold, they seem less now with the new code but would like to make them even better if the spacers will help.
Thanks in advance.
Quoted from Var1AbL3:Does anyone know if Spooky ever built any of the Rick and Morty machines with the "fixed" flipper bushings? If so what number did they start fixing that issue? I have the x-spacers discussed on here, but want to be 100% sure my machine doesn't have the shorter flipper bushings before I install them. Is there a way to tell? My understanding is if a more than a credit card can fit between bats and PF then it is too high. I know with the previous software update (not the latest) I had a LOT of problems with flipper hold, they seem less now with the new code but would like to make them even better if the spacers will help.
Thanks in advance.
I don't believe so. I was #736 standard and I had to get the bushings from Spooky.
Quoted from Calfdemon:^ This...
My tree broke the first time an air ball hit it. They are not durable enough to be a ramp support and eventually will break over time. The upgraded one that PMC is making has an actual metal post in the middle that is the ramp support and the tree that sits around it is decorative only. Plus, it looks better and comes with a top.
They are selling them for too much in my opinion, but it is a one time purchase and is made the way Spooky should have done it from the start. So I bit the bullet.
The biggest problem is they were printing these at WAY TOO LOW of a fill rate. It looks like 10 or 20% infill if you look inside. Should be at the very least 50% for this kind of part. The other issue is they don't have the extruder close enough to the bed on yours and the other one so you get noodly lines that should be solid plastic. I'm assuming one of their printers was just badly calibrated and you both got parts from it.
Quoted from Var1AbL3:My understanding is if a more than a credit card can fit between bats and PF then it is too high.
Thanks in advance.
That's not quite right. Here is an A/B photo...original bushing, new/lowered bushing. The flipper is MUCH higher than a credit card. Maybe you are thinking of the space between the top of the bushing and the bottom of the flipper bat. That should have a gap of roughly a credit card.
Quoted from snaroff:Here is an A/B photo...original bushing, new/lowered bushing. The flipper is MUCH higher than a credit card
This is exactly what I was looking for, thank you. I want to be 100% sure it is a good move before I do this. Nothing worse than spending a bunch of time and effort to fix something and having to undo what you did if it didn't work. Did you use the x-spacers sold here on pinside? Did you end up using the longer screws that came with it? Makes sense to need longer screws with a spacer, but I would be VERY sad if I went through the PF.
Quoted from Var1AbL3:Did you use the x-spacers sold here on pinside? Did you end up using the longer screws that came with it? Makes sense to need longer screws with a spacer, but I would be VERY sad if I went through the PF.
Just lift the playfield and stack the X spacer on the edge of the playfield and put the screw you want to use through so it's against the edge of the playfield and you can see exactly how far the screw will penetrate into the wood when installed.
Toronto, ON
I had an airball launch all the way from the flipper to the house in the back of the game!
Recently put in the X-Spacers, and I've been noticing airballs where before I had none.
What settings do you all with lowered flippers have them at?
Thanks!
Quoted from WizardsCastle:I had an airball launch all the way from the flipper to the house in the back of the game!
Recently put in the X-Spacers, and I've been noticing airballs where before I had none.
What settings do you all with lowered flippers have them at?
Thanks!
After installing the X-spacers I reduced my flipper power to 24. I'm still getting a fair amount of airballs though, so will try going lower.
Quoted from Var1AbL3:This is exactly what I was looking for, thank you. I want to be 100% sure it is a good move before I do this. Nothing worse than spending a bunch of time and effort to fix something and having to undo what you did if it didn't work. Did you use the x-spacers sold here on pinside? Did you end up using the longer screws that came with it? Makes sense to need longer screws with a spacer, but I would be VERY sad if I went through the PF.
I didn't use the x-spacers...what you see in the photo is the Spooky sanctioned bushing (with original screws).
Quoted from WizardsCastle:I had an airball launch all the way from the flipper to the house in the back of the game!
Recently put in the X-Spacers, and I've been noticing airballs where before I had none.
What settings do you all with lowered flippers have them at?
Thanks!
I'm on 26 for mains, 20 for upper. Works great and ball flies up the left ramp easily. Even after 2 hours solid play. Get the occasional ball with airtime but it's uncommon, and with no hangups going on. Do have a 100mm cooling fan under there though.
Quoted from razorsedge:I'm on 26 for mains, 20 for upper. Works great and ball flies up the left ramp easily. Even after 2 hours solid play. Get the occasional ball with airtime but it's uncommon, and with no hangups going on. Do have a 100mm cooling fan under there though.
Whoa!!! I turned the power down to 27 and the shots to the left ramp felt significantly better.
Not sure how turning down the power makes the shot feel faster, bit it does!
Any ideas?!?!
I don't see any option to toggle family mode. Where can I find this or doesn't code support family mode?
Quoted from TrekTobbyGermany:I don't see any option to toggle family mode. Where can I find this or doesn't code support family mode?
Hit the menu button, then hold down the launch button. It will toggle swearing to Never. Animated Violence is there to stay.
Quoted from WizardsCastle:Whoa!!! I turned the power down to 27 and the shots to the left ramp felt significantly better.
Not sure how turning down the power makes the shot feel faster, bit it does!
Any ideas?!?!
Possible that the ball rides the flipper more consistently with less force of impact?
FYI. I lowered my bottom flippers to 24 last night and they feel great and zero airballs so far. Kept the upper at 26 (which I believe is default) for more juice around the loop to the garage.
Quoted from Fytr:Possible that the ball rides the flipper more consistently with less force of impact?
FYI. I lowered my bottom flippers to 24 last night and they feel great and zero airballs so far. Kept the upper at 26 (which I believe is default) for more juice around the loop to the garage.
Isn't the default for upper 20?
I'm going to play around with the power settings, but strange how the lower power has increased the success and strength of that left ramp shot!?!?
Quoted from Coyohtay:Put up my second best score last saturday. Some nights R&M beats me up, some nights things just click!
[quoted image]
Damn!
Very nice.
How many megaseeds did shove up your butt? 
Did you get that score while streaming? If so can you add the link?
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:How many megaseeds did shove up your butt?
Always last the last 2 digits of the score.
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:Damn!
Very nice.
How many megaseeds did shove up your butt?
Did you get that score while streaming? If so can you add the link?
Yeah, got that on stream. Starts about 1:15, will highlight that game when we get the chance
https://www.twitch.tv/videos/1090072044
Though my best game was 225+ w/ 50 megaseeds
I'm having trouble with my lower right flipper blowing a fuse. I lowered the pulse to 26 and it seems better, it. I can play longer before it blows. In coil test it seems just fine. I think it happens when I flip in more of a frenzy, ie. multiballl. I know others have ha a similar problem, any suggestions would be appreciated.
Also, I had a ball hang up on the apron. I think based on some pictures I've seen, I'm missing some padding/spacers....
20210722_191319 (resized).jpg
Quoted from mjthompson:I'm having trouble with my lower right flipper blowing a fuse. I lowered the pulse to 26 and it seems better, it. I can play longer before it blows. In coil test it seems just fine. I think it happens when I flip in more of a frenzy, ie. multiballl. I know others have ha a similar problem, any suggestions would be appreciated.
Also, I had a ball hang up on the apron. I think based on some pictures I've seen, I'm missing some padding/spacers....
[quoted image]
Get a multimeter and compare the resistance (ohms setting) of your right flipper coil to the left. May have a bad coil.
Quoted from mjthompson:Also, I had a ball hang up on the apron. I think based on some pictures I've seen, I'm missing some padding/spacers....
Mine stuck out like that. I simply removed the apron, unscrewed them and remounted them a little further back.
I also rounded the edge off, but that’s probably unnecessary. I’m just always trying to eliminate ball sticking areas, because it’s a pain during tournaments when I have stop what I’m doing (generally playing my own game) to remove stuck balls.
No way the ball can get stuck on this. 
rd
C29BB1CF-D6E1-4060-9C49-C4216E04B591 (resized).jpegQuoted from mjthompson:I'm having trouble with my lower right flipper blowing a fuse. I lowered the pulse to 26 and it seems better, it. I can play longer before it blows. In coil test it seems just fine. I think it happens when I flip in more of a frenzy, ie. multiballl. I know others have ha a similar problem, any suggestions would be appreciated.
Also, I had a ball hang up on the apron. I think based on some pictures I've seen, I'm missing some padding/spacers....
[quoted image]
Also notice your playfield looks to be all the way to the right in the cabinet. Big gap on the left side?
Look out none of the flipper switches contact any playfield bits like the launch plunger. Just something that might be worth a check. There isn't alot of spare room in there.
Quoted from rotordave:Mine stuck out like that. I simply removed the apron, unscrewed them and remounted them a little further back.
I also rounded the edge off, but that’s probably unnecessary. I’m just always trying to eliminate ball sticking areas, because it’s a pain during tournaments when I have stop what I’m doing (generally playing my own game) to remove stuck balls.
No way the ball can get stuck on this.
rd[quoted image]
I thought about doing something like that but I've also seen images like this one from ipdb. I assume this wasn't OEM?
RaM Apron (resized).jpgQuoted from razorsedge:Also notice your playfield looks to be all the way to the right in the cabinet. Big gap on the left side?
Look out none of the flipper switches contact any playfield bits like the launch plunger. Just something that might be worth a check. There isn't alot of spare room in there.
I've checked it a couple of times and I thought I had plenty of clearance there but... I had played a lot without blowing the fuse and then I moved the playfield around a bit messing with the ball hang-up I had on the apron and promptly blew the fuse... hmmmmmm... I'll recheck the switches again tonight.
GENERAL CURIOSITY (Re: Shooter Lane Wireform):
I was just on the Pinballife site and checking out the new shooter lane wireform. In the description it says:
"Spooky made 2 different versions of the original shooter lane wireform. This upgraded wireform will replace both versions."
Does anybody know how the first two versions differed? Is this why I've had no issues (knock on wood) while others couldn't make that switch fast enough?
Quoted from PinMonk:Get a multimeter and compare the resistance (ohms setting) of your right flipper coil to the left. May have a bad coil.
The coil was going to be the next thing I was going to check. I was just going to swap the left an right coil to see if the problem moved with the coil. But first, tonight I'm going to recheck the switch stack for shorts AGAIN.
Quoted from klr650:GENERAL CURIOSITY (Re: Shooter Lane Wireform):
I was just on the Pinballife site and checking out the new shooter lane wireform. In the description it says:
"Spooky made 2 different versions of the original shooter lane wireform. This upgraded wireform will replace both versions."
Does anybody know how the first two versions differed? Is this why I've had no issues (knock on wood) while others couldn't make that switch fast enough?
My guess is the versions are purple and black, BSE and Standard.
Quoted from fnord:My guess is the versions are purple and black, BSE and Standard.
I was wondering about that too! 
Quoted from klr650:GENERAL CURIOSITY (Re: Shooter Lane Wireform):
I was just on the Pinballife site and checking out the new shooter lane wireform. In the description it says:
"Spooky made 2 different versions of the original shooter lane wireform. This upgraded wireform will replace both versions."
Does anybody know how the first two versions differed? Is this why I've had no issues (knock on wood) while others couldn't make that switch fast enough?
I believe the two versions were more or less the same but one used two screws and the later one just used one. When I replaced my #736 standard with the new wire form my old only used one screw. I had to drill a new hole in the side rail for the new and put the Mr. Poopy Butthole "hat" in my old hole.
Quoted from mjthompson:I thought about doing something like that but I've also seen images like this one from ipdb. I assume this wasn't OEM?[quoted image]
Number #144 here...mine looks like that from the factory.
Quoted from sheahan2:Don't know if someone has done these yet...
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
docquest includes a cool set of these with the pickle Rick plastic. Also don't forget to SQUANCH the ball!
1D5700EA-304F-402C-9B58-F00F608DD874 (resized).jpeg
Maybe you guys can help with this issue...
Recently my A/C condenser caused a power surge in my home while I was playing R&M.
I was able to play another game after I rebooted but when I returned to play later that night it wouldn't start a game.
I ran a coil test and the coils that won't fire are the right flipper, right sling, ball launcher and also the start button won't work.
I've tested the resistance on all the coils and checked continuity on the 4 fuses in the head of the game.
I'm assuming something got fried but also I was able to play a game or 2 after the surge so maybe that's just a coincidence.
Quoted from mariobeans:Maybe you guys can help with this issue...
Recently my A/C condenser caused a power surge in my home while I was playing R&M.
I was able to play another game after I rebooted but when I returned to play later that night it wouldn't start a game.
I ran a coil test and the coils that won't fire are the right flipper, right sling, ball launcher and also the start button won't work.
I've tested the resistance on all the coils and checked continuity on the 4 fuses in the head of the game.
I'm assuming something got fried but also I was able to play a game or 2 after the surge so maybe that's just a coincidence.
Could be a loose wire connection. 
Trace the wires from those components to the connectors and check for a loosened or disconnected connector.
A/c issue probably just a coincidence.
Quoted from mariobeans:Maybe you guys can help with this issue...
Recently my A/C condenser caused a power surge in my home while I was playing R&M.
I was able to play another game after I rebooted but when I returned to play later that night it wouldn't start a game.
I ran a coil test and the coils that won't fire are the right flipper, right sling, ball launcher and also the start button won't work.
I've tested the resistance on all the coils and checked continuity on the 4 fuses in the head of the game.
I'm assuming something got fried but also I was able to play a game or 2 after the surge so maybe that's just a coincidence.
Did you check the fuses OUT of the holder? Those symptoms match a blown fuse on board 2. Test your knocker and shaker, they should be out, too.
Quoted from PinMonk:Did you check the fuses OUT of the holder? Those symptoms match a blown fuse on board 2. Test your knocker and shaker, they should be out, too.
Yes I removed them and the knocker and shaker work fine as well. Im guessing part of the components on the board are toast
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:Could be a loose wire connection.
Trace the wires from those components to the connectors and check for a loosened or disconnected connector.
A/c issue probably just a coincidence.
Pretty sure those issues trace back to this connector
16271517111784974918720245286605 (resized).jpgPromoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
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