(Topic ID: 257850)

Official Rick and Morty Club - You are not like other carbon based life forms.

By TheNoTrashCougar

4 years ago


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  • Latest reply 42 hours ago by Var1AbL3
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#15001 2 years ago
Quoted from brucipher:

So I installed the new flipper bushings today... Wasn't too bad. I worked pretty slowly and it took me about two hours or so (was watching some tennis while doing it). Bottom right flipper was the trickiest for me...I had to remove the ball trough to get to it. I finally adjusted my EOS switches while I was at it. Flippers definitely feel better now, but I honestly wasn't having too many issues prior to the switch. Dead flips feel cleaner and more consistent after the change. I'm also having much better success hitting all the upper flipper shots.
One issue I continue to have (before and after the change) are air balls when shooting the right ramp with the left flipper. I know it's been mentioned here before, but I didn't see a key post for it (unless I missed it). What's the best solution for that? Thanks!!

Never had airballs off the right ramp but after lowering the flippers I was hitting the right orbit so hard it was banging off the upper diverter. Rather than fool with the diverter I just kept lowering the flipper power to the left flipper. I think I'm at 24 or something now and could probably go lower. I find none of the right side shots require WMS "blue coil" kind of power anyway.

Something to try first in any case. Then again if you have always had this issue Metallik's solution may be in the cards.

#15002 2 years ago
Quoted from Hench4Life:

On the EB topic, is there a way to dim or kill the EB light? Looked through the feature settings, but couldn’t find anything. It’s to bright for my liking.

Just stuff something in the insert under the playfield to diffuse the light. Something like cooking parchment paper. Or, if you have one of those wide rubber bands, you can wrap that around the LED board, over the LED to cut the light output.

If you have soldering ability, putting a resistor on the hot side going to the LED board should cut the brightness. Better yet, a potentiometer would let you adjust it dynamically to your exact liking.

#15003 2 years ago

Okay just a quick post to add my observations while installing x spacers yesterday.

Simply put, on my machine all of the screws holding the flipper plates to the playfield were exactly the same length, 3/8 of an inch. The screw itself was a #6.

I did go with the #8x5/8 for 18 of the replacement screws and then I had some #8x1/2 which I used for the balance.

I just chalk it up to being an early-ish build, somewhere in the upper 200s if I'm not mistaken.

Before the worry warts chime in, I colored the heads of all the replacement screws with nail polish and put notes around to remind me or the next owner, someday, to use number #8 by 3/8 if the x spacers are removed.

Interestingly, it doesn't shoot that much differently for me after the installation of the x spacers but to be fair, I had already lowered my flipper rubbers some (as a stopgap) and adjusted the position of the flippers.

#15004 2 years ago
Quoted from Hench4Life:

On the EB topic, is there a way to dim or kill the EB light? Looked through the feature settings, but couldn’t find anything. It’s to bright for my liking.

Friend of mine also said to me that the light was blinding and no way of adjusting it.

I suggested he cut some green mylar to shape and stick it on top of playfield.

He is very happy with the result.

Lights are not as bright but still look good, and added protection for the two LCD 'windows'.

I'll see if I can get a pic from him.

10
#15005 2 years ago

I’d just like to say I love the extra ball light.

#15006 2 years ago

My machine has been pretty sweet out of the box!

But I wanted to fix the occasional missed switch hits on the right orbit and right inner loop shots.

The MRS switches sound good - but I’m a tightass and a handyman ... so I set about fixing it.

1/ right orbit. Played around a bit with the metal rail ... ended up putting it back almost as stock. Repositioned the switch as close to the RHS as possible. Also bent the switch arm up and in (making the circle arc higher ...) so it’s now very trigger happy.
Result ... gets triggered with every powerful orbit shot. Which is almost all of them. When the ball hugs the guide rail, it’s triggered. WIN.

2/ inner right U-turn thing. This was a bit more tricky. The gap where the switch is was too wide by my reckoning. The ball missed the switch lever quite often in my testing.

Stock setupStock setup

The shot is only hit from the bottom, so my theory was that if I narrowed the loop at the top, it’s going to hit the switch every time. So I did. I drilled a hole 5-6mm in from the other hole ...

Drill ya playfield!Drill ya playfield!

And then remounted the end of the rail. The washer pretty much covers the old hole. A bigger washer would, but you can’t see it back there anyway. Bent the rear rail a little to mate up to the adjusted rail.

Boom shakalakaBoom shakalaka

Result: triggers every time. Impossible for it not to trigger. WIN.

Hitting a 5x super skill shot with no skipped switches = pleasing.

rd

#15007 2 years ago

Putting a pot on there is a great idea, thanks!

Quoted from PinMonk:

Just stuff something in the insert under the playfield to diffuse the light. Something like cooking parchment paper. Or, if you have one of those wide rubber bands, you can wrap that around the LED board, over the LED to cut the light output.
If you have soldering ability, putting a resistor on the hot side going to the LED board should cut the brightness. Better yet, a potentiometer would let you adjust it dynamically to your exact liking.

#15008 2 years ago

Just finished off my latest queue of rollover MRS' for R&M - everyone should have received an email and tracking number...let me know if you haven't! I also back tracked and sent messages to tire-kickers during the deluge of orders.

Thanks again for your orders, killed my back, but my wife got me a more ergonomic stool for my bench as a birthday gift last week!

Thanks
Matt
M&M Creations

#15009 2 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Agree. Different adventures have different strategies. It makes each feel unique. Moon man is the ‘shoot quick and accurate to get buckets of points mode’.

For me it’s the “all of the sudden I can’t hit shit & score nothing” mode.

#15010 2 years ago
Quoted from rotordave:

My machine has been pretty sweet out of the box!
But I wanted to fix the occasional missed switch hits on the right orbit and right inner loop shots.
The MRS switches sound good - but I’m a tightass and a handyman ... so I set about fixing it.

Nice solution!

#15011 2 years ago

Man I've been playing the crap out of this pin.This game has the most satisfying combos ever the "spinner to garage is awesome" add right ramp,spinner, to garage.I'm not one to get excited but after these combos get me pump.It's hard but man I keep coming back.Scott Got this right and so many complaining have no idea how these hard tough shots make the game.So underrated better than avengers if you ask me imho

#15012 2 years ago
Quoted from Kyleman:

Man I've been playing the crap out of this pin.This game has the most satisfying combos ever the "spinner to garage is awesome" add right ramp,spinner, to garage.I'm not one to get excited but after these combos get me pump.It's hard but man I keep coming back.Scott Got this right and so many complaining have no idea how these hard tough shots make the game.So underrated better than avengers if you ask me imho

Agreed that it shoots great when dialed in. It would be nice to get some kind of sound effect for shooting combos. Maybe even something that changes the more combos you make.

Let not get crazy now. AIQ is one of the best shooting pins ever made. It’s an absolute flow monster. Elwin is in a league of his own.

#15013 2 years ago

Bushings swap took about 35 mins...

Several beers later, the MRS swap took about 2 hrs. I was drunk and being careful so that's at a snail's pace. World of difference! More so than the bushings on my game.

#15014 2 years ago
Quoted from jahbarron:

Several beers later, the MRS swap took about 2 hrs. I was drunk and being careful so that's at a snail's pace. World of difference! More so than the bushings on my game.

Wait. I need more information about your wife swap here...

#15015 2 years ago

I’ve got my game playing really nice, except that damn left house shot. No amount of tweaking will make it not a bouncy rattling nightmare.

I do recommend giving even a brand new game a wipe down with Novus. Wow, what a difference! Ball is like a rocket.

#15016 2 years ago

Gotron Jerrysis Rickvangelion

Such a great episode. We need a mode based on this one. Would totally make up for fact I have no interest in Ultraman lol. Not holding my breath though though lol, things are probably at bit busy on the code front at moment!

#15017 2 years ago
Quoted from Our_Man_in_Oz:

Gotron Jerrysis Rickvangelion
Such a great episode. We need a mode based on this one. Would totally make up for fact I have no interest in Ultraman lol. Not holding my breath though though lol, things are probably at bit busy on the code front at moment!

Cool you got to see it....I heard it accidently leaked in Canada (I think) and lots of folks got to see it ahead of it's 8/1 release!

#15018 2 years ago
Quoted from Sonic:

Cool you got to see it....I heard it accidently leaked in Canada (I think) and lots of folks got to see it ahead of it's 8/1 release!

I got confused because I just watched the most recent episode. Do not need an adventure based on “Space Sperm”.

#15019 2 years ago

I see talks about possible other modes. Has Spooky officially said they are adding more or is this just wishful thinking? I would love more but not getting my hopes up since there are ten modes to match the adventure card plus the love potion #9 wizard one.

#15020 2 years ago

How do you beat "Look Who's Purging Now".

I think it's the only one I haven't beat yet.

Thanks!

#15021 2 years ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

How do you beat "Look Who's Purging Now".
I think it's the only one I haven't beat yet.
Thanks!

Off the top of my head: Purple shots will spawn on the far left and move to the right. Shoot shots before they get to the right orbit and purge Morty. The center loop is lit initially for grenade to destroy rightmost purple shot. Shoot enough purple shots and Summer target goes purple. Hit Summer to call Summer. After a period the scoop will light. Hit scoop to start a kind of victory lap mode and get green stamp.

#15022 2 years ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

How do you beat "Look Who's Purging Now".
I think it's the only one I haven't beat yet.
Thanks!

I’m with you. What’s the sequence, what do the different colors represent?

#15023 2 years ago

Will Spooky get around to publishing at least a digital version of a user manual and gameplay rule set? Hoping for digital so that additional adventures and dimensions can get added hint hint

#15024 2 years ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

How do you beat "Look Who's Purging Now".
I think it's the only one I haven't beat yet.
Thanks!

Look Who’s Purging Now: On the purge planet, purges happen… well, a lot - and Rick unknowingly traps his grandson there on an adventure. Buy time for Rick to build the communicator and save both of their lives by fending off the planet’s fierce locals, represented by purple arrows moving from left to right across the playfield towards Morty. Locals are killed by hitting the shot they are currently on. You can also kill the right most local by lobbing a defraculation grenade if you have one, this is done by shooting the inner loop. The longer the mode lasts, the closer together the locals spawn, and the farther to the right they are when you kill them their value increases. Morty is located at the right garage entrance, and if a local reaches him, you’ll only have a few seconds to make the shot and save him before the mode ends. Holding off the locals for a long enough time (killing 5 locals) will light the Summer target on the left target bank; hit it with a precise shot to summon the armored suits, and then stay alive for 20 seconds. Shoot the scoop afterwards for hot purging action and successful completion of the mode. Good luck!

http://tiltforums.com/t/rick-morty-rulesheet/6391

#15025 2 years ago
Quoted from Sonic:

Just finished off my latest queue of rollover MRS' for R&M - everyone should have received an email and tracking number...let me know if you haven't! I also back tracked and sent messages to tire-kickers during the deluge of orders.
Thanks again for your orders, killed my back, but my wife got me a more ergonomic stool for my bench as a birthday gift last week!
Thanks
Matt
M&M Creations

Hey Matt, are you getting my messages? I was trying to get an order in for more of these but haven't gotten a reply.

#15026 2 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Hey Matt, are you getting my messages? I was trying to get an order in for more of these but haven't gotten a reply.

PM sent!

Matt

#15027 2 years ago
Quoted from Sonic:

Cool you got to see it....I heard it accidently leaked in Canada (I think) and lots of folks got to see it ahead of it's 8/1 release!

I use Sonarr on my NAS so I get whatever leaks as well.

Quoted from newovad:

I got confused because I just watched the most recent episode. Do not need an adventure based on “Space Sperm”.

It's the episode after, has a nod to the incest space baby in it, very funny.

#15028 2 years ago
Quoted from Our_Man_in_Oz:

I use Sonarr on my NAS so I get whatever leaks as well.

It's the episode after, has a nod to the incest space baby in it, very funny.

I saw it tonight...hilarious....go-go-go-tron!!

Matt

#15029 2 years ago

The spawns are outta the house this week and while enjoying some much-needed down time my wife and I have been rewatching R&M from the beginning. Man this show has aged surprisingly well (hard to believe S1 is 8 years old?!) and Spooky crew did a great job capturing the essence of those first 3 seasons. I really hope we get a mode or two from S4 or 5 in the future.

But one request which I hope is easy enough, Erik if yer still lurking: can we get the Simple Rick's wafer commercials added to attract mode? Cuz I really do want to taste the flavor of Shattering the Grand Illusion that I might someday beat this game

#15030 2 years ago

What is happening to my game? It’s like graphical glitches from a dying GPU in LED form.

This happens randomly when playing, and it’s becoming more frequent.

15A531B2-0AC0-4046-BBF6-6243D17A0284 (resized).jpeg15A531B2-0AC0-4046-BBF6-6243D17A0284 (resized).jpeg57D49F2C-F552-47B4-9586-9C1D0DD6D3AF (resized).jpeg57D49F2C-F552-47B4-9586-9C1D0DD6D3AF (resized).jpeg
#15031 2 years ago
Quoted from Soulstoner:

What is happening to my game? It’s like graphical glitches from a dying GPU in LED form.
This happens randomly when playing, and it’s becoming more frequent.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Check your connections, starting with the boards in the backbox. Looks like a loose connector.

#15032 2 years ago

Yeah, I had the same issue when my connectors came loose from the numeric displays. I needed to reseat them and then reglued them with some hot glue. Haven't had an issue since.

#15033 2 years ago

Mine does same sometimes, loose connection. The hot glue will only hold for so long!

#15034 2 years ago

I would start with the ribbon cable at the display

#15035 2 years ago

Having Horseshoe Opto Issues, here.

My R - side Optos are not working. Every Game starts with it thinking a ball is locked and the Orange Light on.

Traced wiring back to Opto-Boards to make sure connections are secured and they are. Optos are clean and secure on the PF, no shifting or loose screws.

Anyone got an idea of what else I can check?

#15036 2 years ago
Quoted from guitarded:

Having Horseshoe Opto Issues, here.
My R - side Optos are not working. Every Game starts with it thinking a ball is locked and the Orange Light on.
Traced wiring back to Opto-Boards to make sure connections are secured and they are. Optos are clean and secure on the PF, no shifting or loose screws.
Anyone got an idea of what else I can check?

Wipe them off with a Q-tip - make sure there’s nothing on them.

#15037 2 years ago
Quoted from Lounge:

Wipe them off with a Q-tip - make sure there’s nothing on them.

That was my first step. Wiped them clean and checked to make sure there is/was no obstruction. Thanks for your response, though.

#15038 2 years ago
Quoted from guitarded:

That was my first step. Wiped them clean and checked to make sure there is/was no obstruction. Thanks for your response, though.

All of the punchdowns in the back of the connectors are all made good?

If a transmitter is flaky it will read as a activated switch. They are always on in gameplay at least, and test. See them with phone camera (ir). Confirm they are lit.

#15039 2 years ago

Checked all the connectors and the wiring at the opto board. Nothing out of place at all.

Game has over 7k plays on it and the only real issue has been the Right Target dealio with it not wanting to drop when loaded with the weight of a locked ball.

But, this just started happening after some multiplayer games were played this weekend.

As far as checking the Optos with an IR Camera/Setting, no chance of achieving that here. Though, I appreciate the suggestion.

EDIT : FIXED

Turns out the lower opto receiver had lost its connections. Removed and re-soldered the wires. Now it passes the Switch Test Properly.

Thanks for the suggestions, guys.

#15040 2 years ago
Quoted from guitarded:

Checked all the connectors and the wiring at the opto board. Nothing out of place at all.
Game has over 7k plays on it and the only real issue has been the Right Target dealio with it not wanting to drop when loaded with the weight of a locked ball.
But, this just started happening after some multiplayer games were played this weekend.
As far as checking the Optos with an IR Camera/Setting, no chance of achieving that here. Though, I appreciate the suggestion.
EDIT : FIXED
Turns out the lower opto receiver had lost its connections. Removed and re-soldered the wires. Now it passes the Switch Test Properly.
Thanks for the suggestions, guys.

Seven thousand plays? Your machine is the mortiest of all!

#15041 2 years ago

Hopefully joining club soon!

Looking ahead, see these are in stock.

https://www.pinballlife.com/rick-and-morty-upgraded-shooter-lane-wireform-kit.html

Presumably worth getting?

#15042 2 years ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

Hopefully joining club soon!
Looking ahead, see these are in stock.
https://www.pinballlife.com/rick-and-morty-upgraded-shooter-lane-wireform-kit.html
Presumably worth getting?

yes

#15043 2 years ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

Presumably worth getting?

I don't know. I have a late run game and my stock one seems to work fine. What is the advantage of this one?

#15044 2 years ago

I've never had an issue with mine either. I would suggest getting the game first and getting it set up, then deciding if you need it. The best assumption with this game is that no two are the same. Some need lots of tweaking, some don't need any, and some in the middle.

It would be helpful to know if the person you are buying it from did any of the tweaks...they may have already put one on it as well if that is the case.

The only thing you REALLY need is the new power supply fan.

#15045 2 years ago
Quoted from Gorgar123:

I don't know. I have a late run game and my stock one seems to work fine. What is the advantage of this one?

I didn't understand this either until I got my late game and could inspect more closely.

The intent of the game is that a launched ball should drop immediately at the end of the wireform, to feed the upper flipper.

The stock shooter wireform's design features ball rails that end as 2" floating cantilevers extended past the anchor point, and the ball is supposed to smack into the wide "hoop" extending (as another flimsy cantilever) just past them at the ball's relative midpoint. When the ball hits the hoop rail, it should drop down.

The flaw in this design is that over time, the floating rail ends (either one and/or both) can sag. Or the hoop end could deflect and misalign from repeated strikes. Any of these can cause the ball to merely graze past the hoop rail on its way into the playfield loop (or even all the way around if your coil power is too high, but that speaks to other issues I don't consider a flaw in the wireform itself). Or it might drop and feed the flipper, but with randomized backspin and/or speed and/or placement, causing inconsistent feed shot timing.

Spooky posted vids where the adjustments are simple enough: simply bend the rails and/or hoop and/or adjust coil power until it "works" - but it's an inherently bad design. Mine works but not with the consistency I'd prefer - I've seen all of the "random feed" issues I described from time to time.

The PBL wireform gets rid of the flimsy cantilevers by locking ball rail ends to a solid surrounding ring: they won't sag or misalign. And instead of hoping the ball hits a thin curved wire at its midpoint and drops down instead of grazing "beneath" it and forward, PBL's form has the ball hit two overhead framing wires that immediately deflect and guide the ball downward. This is a vastly superior and sturdier design that provides consistent ball launch drops.

Full disclosure: I don't have the PBL form and don't work for them, so I'm not a shill. I absolutely do think the game should have had the properly designed PBL part from the start, or had it installed going forward once available. But some folks point to the "simple and adjustable" form being good enough and perhaps maybe it is. I would argue that since timing is EVERYTHING on this game, inconsistent launches are aggravating. I mean it's not like the game has a manual plunger or skillshot: you should absolutely get the same guaranteed ball feed and placement every time you hit the button. So I might break down and order it anyway because the stock one really is kinda dumb if you have to start fiddling with it and once you do, "it's always a variable that might bend again".

#15046 2 years ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

I didn't understand this either until I got my late game and could inspect more closely.
The intent of the game is that a launched ball should drop immediately at the end of the wireform, to feed the upper flipper.
The stock shooter wireform's design features ball rails that end as 2" floating cantilevers extended well past the anchor point, and the ball is supposed to smack into the end of the "hoop" suspended just past them at the ball's relative midpoint: when the ball hits the hoop, it should drop down.
The flaw in this design is that over time, the floating rail ends could sag. Or the hoop end could be misadjusted. Either of which would cause the ball to merely graze past the hoop rail on its way into the playfield loop (or even all the way around if your coil power is too high, but that speaks to other issues I don't consider a flaw in the wireform itself). Or it might drop and feed the flipper, but with more randomized backspin and/or speed and placement, causing inconsistent timing.
Spooky posted vids where the adjustments are simple enough - simply bend the rails and/or adjust coil power until it works - but it's an inherently bad design. Full disclosure, mine works but not with the consistency I'd prefer - I've seen all of the "random feed" issues I described from time to time.
The PBL wireform gets rid of the flimsy cantilever by ending the ball rail in a solid surrounding ring. And instead of hoping the ball hits a thin curved wire at its midpoint and decides to drop down instead of grazing "beneath" it, PBL's form has the ball hit two framing wires that immediately deflect it downward. So it's a far superior, sturdier design that provides consistent ball launch drops.
Full disclosure: I don't have the PBL form and don't work for them, so I'm not a shill. I absolutely do think the game should have had the properly designed PBL part from the start, or had it installed going forward once available. But some folks point to the "simple and adjustable" form being good enough and perhaps maybe it is. I would argue that since timing is EVERYTHING on this game, inconsistent launches are aggravating. I mean it's not like the game has a manual plunger or skillshot: you should absolutely get the same guaranteed ball feed and placement every time you hit the button. So I might break down and order it anyway because the stock one really is kinda dumb if you have to start fiddling with it and once you do, "it's always a variable that might bend again".

I second the newer launch rail, it also bolts to the playfield as compared to the OG that just had bent wire holding it there...

#15047 2 years ago
Quoted from monkfe:

I second the newer launch rail, it also bolts to the playfield as compared to the OG that just had bent wire holding it there...

Yeah I figure if/when I ever have to remove the stock wireform, I'll cut threads into the wire ends with a die set and use nuts to secure it like every other game.

Even if I go to the PBL part, I want to cut those threads anyway because that ugly bent wire irks me! I mean there some quality parts and fasteners and serviceability traits throughout the pf assembly, but they just... hammered the wireform rails over?! I guess in a way it's almost charming, as a tell they're still the scrappy upstart after all, and I know all about "quick and dirty, if it works it works"... but yeah... oof.

#15048 2 years ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

if you have to start fiddling with it

Thanks for the explanation. That all makes sense.

I think I will probably hang tight with the stock one since it is seems to still be working well after several hundred plays and just wait to order the PBL one if and when it starts giving me trouble.

#15049 2 years ago

Hi everyone!

Unboxed my standard edition #619 on Tuesday (even it has a blood sucker sign on the speaker panel, haha That's not normal, isn't it?).

Had to do some minor adjustments on switches (leaf switch on right flipper button(!)) and targets and an update. Plays well without any other tweaks out of the box. Can't notice clunky behavior or uncommon collapse on flippers, uncommon fading or anything else. Software on factory settings. Made a score above 200 Mio and some games with more than one hour non-stop play so far.

Only thing I notice are the flippers are a bit too high, rubbers hit the ball barely on the bottom. I am sure, the game will play even better with the shortened bushings.

Unique layout, great sound, beautiful armor/cabinet. What a fun to play! Lost some balls because I couldn't stop laughing! I hope the code will be further developed like Scott did on TNA.

Great work spooky and Scott! Thanks for that great pin!

#15050 2 years ago

Can anyone with the Pinball Life updated shooter wireform tell me why it came with two different size black screws? What are they for? Also, what is the small black plastic spacer for? The shooter wireform looks like it would just use the existing screw (and the provided nuts to tighten underneath, unless I’m wrong.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
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