Hi. Have game 508 BSE and just got it installed in basement. Code is from before May 2021 build. 3 games in and the upper right flipper started to be intermittent with flipping. Sometimes it flipped when pressed and not other times. By game 6 it barely flipped at all. The lower right flipper was 100% fine. Had family over and no time to diagnose but any clues/tips what to check for would be appreciated???

I would start by adjusting the cabinet flipper switchstack and setting the EOS to close closer to the end of the stroke.

My right side cabinet flipper switch had shifted a bit during shipping. Got it aligned, tightened and adjusted and haven't had much for issues since.

What he said, plus get the latest code on it.

Oooh great question man. I know Scott was doing audio for the next P3 game and while I appreciate Elwin games, Scott’s games are way more interesting to me and I’m stoked for game 3. Also, please run 1 TNA 2.0 for me before you start Halloween and Ultraman.

I second that I would also be in for a TNA 2.0. Scott’s designs are excellent.

Would anyone be so kind as to shoot me a video recording of their ship post test running on the stock Lexan cut spring? I want to ensure my new dangler gives a very similar amount of waggle . TY in advance!

Skip to end. Thats the original plastic without reliefs. Cleared 1000 plays long ago.

No EOS on the upper flipper but yes, the leaf-switch stack on the right side can be wonky. Replacing mine with a different one soon.

Well, I've got a problem. The launch ball button and both right flippers aren't working. Played a few games tonight and it just stopped. I've spent the past few hours chasing wires, but I can't find the source of the problem.

Anyone else experience this issue? Everything is plugged in, so I have no idea what's going on. Not sure if it will help, but here's some pics of the wiring. Any help is greatly appreciated!

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Both right flippers
Right sling
Anti-grav magnet
Are all grouped together. Does the left sling work, but not the right?

Check the fuses on the board in the backbox. Sounds like one is blown.
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Slightly different board, but the idea is correct.

rd

Haha. I really need to organize my spooky board pictures. That's a Rob Zombie, right?

But yeah, pretty sure this is a blown fuse, especially since the problem coils are grouped together.

Yeah, first Gen PinHeck from all games before TNA.

TNA, ACNC, ACNC = PROC

Halloween and UltraGuy = New Pinheck AKA Pinataur.

rd

Thank you very much for the help! It might be a blown fuse, there's one that doesn't look like the others (#4 in the pic, lower right corner).

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Here it is compared to another fuse, possible problem fuse on the right:

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The fuse on the left is a single wire with a ball in the middle, the one on the right is a twisted wire and the wire is still connected.

Excellent! Thank you so much! I cannot believe you got 1000 plays out of the factory one!! No changes in power or anything?

The fuse on the right looks blown visually, but you could test it with a cheap multimeter if you have one.

Thank you for the info! I don't have a multimeter, so can't test it. I could probably swap the fuses around and see what happens. This is my first and only pinball machine, sooooo it's a learning process, lol. Going to Google search for some pinball machine fuses now!

Get a multimeter tomorrow.

A basic one will do. Just make sure it has “continuity test”

You hold one lead on each end of the fuse to test it. A good fuse will beep (show continuity) and a bad fuse will not. Can’t use your eyes.

Every pinballer should have a meter, a soldering iron, solder, nut driver set. Good list to start.

rd

You definitely need a multimeter if you're going to have a pinball machine. Get a good fluke and never need to buy another. The 117 is very handy at about $200.

https://www.fluke-direct.com/product/fluke-117-digital-multimeter-with-non-contact-voltage

You need SLO BLOW (also called Timed) fuses, NOT fast blow. I don't know what the rating on those is, but probably something like 3 amp (it says on the metal band on the end of the fuse.

If you want to test it now and have a piece of wire, a small LED, and a 9 volt battery, make a simple circuit to turn on the bulb. Verify bulb turns on. Insert fuse into circuit. If light bulb no longer works the fuse is blown.

5th Episode
10th July 2021

Spooky's Rick & Morty

And don’t forget a lot of disposable income…

Looks like I still have some headroom and width, going to try to go a little bigger. Screw holes line up well

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I will check one last time, I had printed some x spacers for the flippers but the new bushings came in before I got around to installing them. I installed the bushings instead so if anyone wants a free set of Xspacers, let me know

Just wondering if anyone has a solution for balls getting hard-wedged behind the Meeseeks target?
I thought I had this fixed already (by squaring up that metal bracket behind the upper flipper) but repeated ball hits to the bracket have just caused it to re-bend and now the balls are getting wedged behind the Meeseeks target again.

Rather than re-bending (and further weakening) this metal bracket - I thought I should ask: Has anyone tried (and succeeded) in fixing this yet?

Seems like the following are viable options:

1. Use a stronger bracket
2. Use a slightly longer bracket
3. Move the current bracket over slightly (drill two new holes)
3. Insert a post between bracket and Meeseeks target (drill one new hole)

Thoughts or ideas?

I've been wondering if just adding a wedge shaped piece of plastic to the back of the target, with some epoxy, would keep a ball from getting in there deep enough to jam?

Might just end up throwing a mini post in there, though.

6 months ago I did this (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/190#post-6046236) and it hasn't gotten wedged once since then. I believe this is your Solution #3 above.

I put one or two washers under one of the screws to tilt it slightly and close the gap. Works fine and easy as.

Awwe biiitch

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Doesn't seem right without his ball chin.

Wondering if I could get away with a pair of balls that dangle that the ball hits without it slowing it down. I also don't like how the head is pointed down so I'm going to try to tilt it up.

Anyway you will be putting this on Thingiverse? I would love to print one.

The only thing I don’t like about my Rick and Morty is the “look at me I’m Mr. Meeseks” callouts.

Mr. Meeseks drives me crazy.

Haha, but...that's the point

Scale the head up a bit so it's edge to edge on the ramp, then use a printed vinyl sticker on the underside of the ramp with the chin and balls to close the visual gap and make the head look like it's swallowing the ramp.

I think I'm going to try creating a separate jaw piece that wraps underneath the ramp (including ball chin). That will also hide the wire going from one opto to the other.

The awww yeahh Meseeks callout kills me every time. That was the episode of the show where it all clicked for me and I think Meseeks Mania is so well done, all the way down to the Jerry shot.

I think I got the waggle of the dangler working exactly like the stock solution.

I am really optimistic that this implementation will solve the problem completely. I am going to contact spooky and see if they would sell those playfield plastics without the holes cut in them .

You're welcome to having my first revision from 2 days ago. I've spent a lot of hours this weekend making tweaks, when I'm happy with it I'll likely put it up for sale if anyone is interested. I think it's very close, I extended the upper lip width so it looks like his jaw is wrapping around the ramp. It's going to be tough to fit a chin underneath unless it's flattened. There's maybe 3/4" of space under the ramp before it hits plastic.

I model everything up in solidworks (to get a really good starting point, and I can accurately make holes), then I import it into a separate program to add texture and pull things organically.

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Visit 3 dimensions.

And fill the stamp card. You get another EB there.

You can also set the special to award an EB for points.

On the EB topic, is there a way to dim or kill the EB light? Looked through the feature settings, but couldn’t find anything. It’s to bright for my liking.

Yeah, I really think the only way completing the mouth and having the chin with balls is doing forced-perspective art on a vinyl sticker under the ramp. There's just not enough room to do an actual 3D part under the ramp.

Hah, I've been wanting to say the same thing as it is blindingly bright, but no one else mentioned it so I thought maybe I was just being a wuss

So I installed the new flipper bushings today... Wasn't too bad. I worked pretty slowly and it took me about two hours or so (was watching some tennis while doing it). Bottom right flipper was the trickiest for me...I had to remove the ball trough to get to it. I finally adjusted my EOS switches while I was at it. Flippers definitely feel better now, but I honestly wasn't having too many issues prior to the switch. Dead flips feel cleaner and more consistent after the change. I'm also having much better success hitting all the upper flipper shots.

One issue I continue to have (before and after the change) are air balls when shooting the right ramp with the left flipper. I know it's been mentioned here before, but I didn't see a key post for it (unless I missed it). What's the best solution for that? Thanks!!

I ground down the right side of the left flap rivet, any ball that hugs the left side caught air off of it. Right rivet doesn't seem as much in the way.

There is a ramp cover you can buy as well.