I am having an issue where one of the right drop target in the horseshoe won’t drop to release a ball when multiball is triggered. It tries really hard, then just gives up and holds the ball there. Oddly, there seems to be no way to free it other than removing the glass or restarting the game. You can wait for at least five minutes and it will not fire a chase ball or cycle the solenoids hard enough to free it.

This is an issue that has been popping up and my machine developed it too. First on the right drop, then the left. I was talking with Luke at Spooky and others are reporting it too. Strange part is it is the exact same mechanism that is in ACNC and its never had a oroblem in a year and a half of owning that game.

Anyway, I have my right mostly fixed and still need to work on my left.

If you look at your drop target mechanism, there is a small coil that activates a "finger" which pushes the drop target in order to lower it. Right near where this finger is supposed to hit the drop, there is a slot in the drop target. What seems to be happening on mine is it works fine with no ball (weight) behind it. But when there is a ball resting on the drop, the finger hits the drop but as it tries to push it, the finger slips into the slot, causing it to fail.

I was able to slightly bend the finger away from the slot on the right drop target enough that it now works about 90% of the time. My left still hangs up about 70% of the time, so I still need to work on that one.

In the meantime, I time a strong forward push on the game when the drops are supposed to lower in order to overcome the failure. This is enough to get the weight of the balls off the drops so they can lower properly.

Both of my drops worked perfectly for about 500 games before this issue came up.

I've had this same issue...and yes it charges when striking the flooble crank wire, but not on the awarded "mystery award"

Same thing here. My Right Target will only drop on a well timed nudge.

Hmm...I haven't seen this yet *knock on wood*

any ideas of what the actual cause is? Grooves in the target (finger area) wearing in over time?
Another issue due to thinner PF (likely this particular mech had this accounted for?)

Looking for preventative measures.

I know that the mech basically moves the target up slightly which causes the top lip to push the ball away from the target as it drops down giving the ball a bit of float and momentum before going past the target. I would think this somehow lends itself to wear over time. Additionally from balls hammering the target from the other side causes flex and if the target is touching any thin metal below it would eventually wear grooves into it.

Same, I previously had to nudge the game at just the right moment to get my right target to drop (usually about 3-4 seconds right after the music starts at the end of a game).

To fix I had to bend the "finger" on the bracket for my Rick (right) target to roughly match up with the angle of the finger on the working Morty (left) target. All good now, just wish I had taken pictures while I had that bracket out.

As per @zablon, I also wonder if this could be another issue with the thinner playfields - but at least it's a fairly easy fix!

Are you 100% sure that it wasn't the portal gun charge awarded during the mystery award? I have gotten this confused for the flooble crank charge a few times.

I believe this is it. My target started flaking out after 600 plays back in May.

Bending the target mech up (i.e. toward the front of the PF) fixed my left target. Attached is a before/after photo. Since the targets take a beating, it makes sense that the metal bracket might bend over time and need adjustment.

btw...there is a diagnostic to help identify if the targets are working correctly (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/275#post-6294425).

IMG_3944 (resized).jpeg

IMG_3945 (resized).jpeg

Honestly can't tell what is going on there. I see the difference, but hard to know if that is just a difference in camera angle. Can you circle the piece you adjusted?

Good point...I'll have to watch it again to make sure...

Looks like the entire bracket (L) was bent back into position. It is more vertical in the 2nd pic.

As this seems to be a recurring problem, if anyone is able to take a picture of a before and after "finger" adjustment for a key post in this thread that would be awesome. I am not having this issue yet, but want to be prepared for it when I do start seeing it.

Whaaaat? Drop targets were never designed to be banged on from behind?

This is going to affect how often I give in to the urge for a little ball fondling!

Exactly. The red box annotates the left drop bracket which was bent from the ball smacking it from behind. The black line shows approx. how much it was out of whack. Photos certainly aren't exact, but should give folks an idea of what the fix was (for me, at least).

Image 7-4-21 at 2.33 PM (resized).jpeg

epthegeek found the software bug in tournament mode. Please refer to the 15:27 mark of the tournament twitch video below. I was only able to capture the first of the two times the machine froze on us. Both times it froze was right at the start of multiball.

https://www.twitch.tv/videos/1075690374

Lol

Thank you all for the tips on the drops! That makes a ton of sense.

My stupid “plastic spring” for the ship broke again! I am not purchasing and installing another one of these! I decided to redesign it and I am very close to what I consider a much better design for this feature.

I am not sure if there is a market for an improved ship dangler thing, but I’ll be looking for a few people to test if anyone is interested. Just PM me so that I know.

I’ll share the design and how it works pretty soon. I just need to make a few more adjustments.

MET... AL.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/219#post-6139839

This is not a plug, I barely make anything off of this at $15. I made this because I saw how many were breaking, so I knew I needed one for myself.. And the only way to make them cheaply is to make a lot of them. I must have shipped 50 and have not had a single person go "hey man, your spring metal ship mount broke"

Hey y'all! I was wondering if this is happening to anyone else running the public release code from May...very often, I get the "death save" animation on drain...but on switch test nothing is stuck high (also I have no fails when switches are pressed), thoughts?

Thanks!

Give it a couple hard shakes during the switch test.

Yeah, I think that is absolutely a durable solution but I wanted something that blocked less of the artwork. I’ll try to show you what I’ve got later today, I’ve been super busy. :/

What's likely happening is the ball is rolling over the outlane switch and then a playfield switch somewhere (pop bumper skirt, etc) is triggering from vibration and it thinks you got the ball back in play.

Glass off. Put the game in switch test mode. Smack the playfield firmly with the palm of your hand in multiple places and see if it triggers a switch or switches. Adjust that if it does so they don't register from vibration.

before (resized).jpg

after (resized).jpg

Just got done putting some Pinstadiums on my R&M and wanted to show the results for anyone that might interested as I have not seen many photos of R&M with them installed. Not a must have on this title but I thought the upper portion of the playfield was kind of dark, especially when I am playing at night.

I still need to dial in the brightness and colors a little, but I think the photos are a pretty accurate before and after. Also, since I tied them into the white GI, they go off when the white GI goes off, so no diminishing of the fantastic light shows.

Thinking of getting a HUO R&M or may be an Ultraman.

My understanding is that Fawzma/Bug on Ultraman code with input from Bowen/Eric.

For R&M, is it Bowen 100% on the rules, with Eric doing the software?

Not bad on this title since no metal ramps to cause pin-striping effect. I do like how it lights up the lightning bolts on the PF. But I would be concerned about "flattening" the impact of the light shows since the insert LEDs are not the brightest.

Apron card says "Rules Direction: Bowen Kerins" which sounds collaborative to me. I would think Bowen's vast experience and knowledge of rules helped flesh out the bare bones Eric started with, but it's the programming makes the rules happen!

I used the NEO version which has diffusers that get rid of any pin striping.

I was concerned about lowering the impact of the light show as well, but since the Pinstadiums follow the white GI, when the white GI goes out or dims for the light shows, the Pinstadiums go out or dim as well, so the light shows still look just like they did before I installed them. Here's a pic during one of the attract mode light shows. As you can see, the white GI is off and therefore so are the Pinstadiums.

ps (resized).jpg

Hmmm not pinstadium related but I wonder if the blue crystal mod could be tied into the white GI? I have one but haven't put it in the game as the idea of it just being on constantly in a static manner while every other light is undulating, shutting down, etc kinda bugs my OCD.

Anybody done this or have any ideas? I haven't investigated it but I doubt it would be as easy as tapping into a bulb as in Bally/Wms, etc. Or maybe it is?

Anything would be better than always on (for me).

.

I've considered having it tap into the other crystal, but been too lazy to try. Also, it always on really isn't bothersome.

Installed the Spacers tonight, and I feel like the left ramp is more makeable now. However, the inner loop is much harder to find, as well as the garage shot.

Maybe it'll take some getting used to, or maybe my upper flipper needs some realignment. Can some with lowered flippers share a pic of their upper flipper position.

One other thing I think it maybe have improved is shots to the scoop. I think there was a lot of spin on the ball prior, and that caused some rejections.

I've contacted spooky about this and this was their response :

According to programming this is functioning the way it is supposed to.

Really!?

I responded that I need to call them since there is some misunderstanding!

Adjusted the upper flipper alignment, and shots are much better. I'd have to say on the handful of games I've played with the X-Spacers, it plays better.

The left ramp shot was my biggest issue, and now, it's a more reliable.

Definitely suggest brining down your flippers.

Here's a Dan Harmon-approved sculpt of a real-life Rick for your enjoyment.

80366_09_dan-harmon-shows-off-real-life-rick-from-and-morty~2 (resized).jpg

Anyone else think that looks a lot like Christopher Walken?

Anyone have the 2X blue multiplier LED stick on? It was stuck on during attract mode and after I started a new game. It have been a software problem because it was not a loose connection and reset to normal after a reboot.

Sorry if this has been mentioned already or if a fix is in the works:

During Scary Terry, there's one audio clip that has a weird edit. When Morty says "He sure says "bitch" a lot", you hear a quick noise from Terry (I think)...sounds like "YA..." and cut off. Happens every time that clip plays.

Yes, I can confirm this. It's been around as long as I can remember.

I've had that happen on the 3x bulb. Going into LED Test mode usually indicates 3 colors are active and 1 is not. Re seating the connector at the LED and the pcb, and/or rebooting helps, but if it persists just replace the bulb. Replacing the bulbs on the few areas that were acting strange fixed the issues for me.

https://www.pinballlife.com/p3-roc-single-rgb-insert-led-pcb-assembly.html

Now I do!

Hey everyone, I wanted to give an early preview of my new "Ship Dangler". I came up with this idea because I've been through two "plastic springs" now. I firmly believe it is not a question of "if it will break" rather "when will it break".

What I'm trying to do is to create something that is simple to assemble, reliable and visually better than the stock version. I feel pretty confident that I have cracked the code, but I'll leave you all to decide.

Essentially what I've done is to "pinch" the existing plastic hole with a TPU flange I call the "wiggler". On top of that I have a part which copies the spooky clear plastic PETG design allowing for me to maintain the stock spooky aesthetic. Lastly, instead of using hot glue to hold the spring into the "funnel" I've created a lock which mates with the spring and allows for you to use one of the stock screws and lock nuts to hold the thing together. I am a big believer in being able to disassemble things without damage .

I'm going to post some pictures of the design and prototypes. I expect to print the final "wiggler" in transparent TPU in order to do my best to hide it and show off the artwork currently blocked by the plastic spring. If there is interest in this thing, I would be happy to record a couple of videos which try to detail how it works.

Overall the final product leaves you with a cleaner looking plastic minus the fact that you now have four unused holes cut into the plastic. Personally, I'd rather have the small holes in the plastic than the huge spring, but to each his own. Plus I figured if I opened up four holes in the middle of the playfield, other creative mod makers could come up with some cool stuff .

Let me know what you think.

sideExplanation (resized).png

isoWholePart (resized).jpg

isoWholePartTransparent (resized).jpg

IMG_0563 (resized).jpeg

Quick question, can someone that is not using fans on their flippers tell me if the plunger on the right flipper gets so hot that you can't keep you finger on it.

My left flipper plunger iswarm, but I can keep my finger on it. My right plunger is scorching hot.

This is after 10-15 minutes of play.

Thank.

Didn’t they address the overheating in the most recent code?

Hey snaroff are you bending them towards the from of the playfield or away? Is there anything you are using as a guide? Are they supposed to be a perfectly perpendicular to the playfield (90 degrees). Thank you!

TheNoTrashCougar do you happen to have any suggestions for the Danesi lock 2.0 failing to eject balls stuck behind the drop targets? The drop tests work flawlessly, it is just an issue when the weight of the ball is behind it.

I like where you're going with this, I've never been a fan of the original design.

They IMPROVED it, but it can never be eliminated because physics. Conservation of energy turns the power sent to the coil into kinetic motion and heat when flipped, and just heat when held, and over time it gets worse as the heat builds resistance, which builds more heat, which builds more resistance, rinse, repeat.

That and the resolution of the board set doesn't give them Stern Spike-like control over the duty cycle, holding them to milliseconds when Stern's spike can do microsecond pulses to manage heat when held/trapped up.

You are bending them toward the FRONT of the PF (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/298#post-6367404). No guide, BUT there is a very handy diagnostic that will verify if it's fixed. I believe I also mentioned it in my post.

Also important to note that if the flipper has ANY binding it will get hotter faster. Kind of obvious, but worth mentioning since many folks are rebuilding the flippers without much prior experience.

I LIKE WHAT YOU GOT! GOOD JOB!

But seriously, I'd likely pick one up for replacement when the next plastic breaks. I like the look of it. Any changes needed to the shaft length given that the wiggler sits lower?

Today marks an interesting day as we ship out our 1st - the whole shebang R&M MRS package - a Pinsider chose to replace all 9 rollovers in his R&M (plus purchasing 2 spares)....I'll be curious how the pin plays as, to date, we've only sold 4 MRS' max for a R&M.....I'll let the Pinsider choose to provide further commentary if they so choose....

Thanks everyone for your recent deluge - after today - I'm caught up again...for now...

Now, onto a Rob Zombie order!

Matt & Dan
M&M Creations