Toms River, NJ
Is there a location for the complete game rules?...I found the early one in the key post index, but its not complete...Thanks..
(Topic ID: 257850)
Linked Games
Rick and Morty (Blood Sucker Edition)
Spooky Pinball, 2020-
Rick and Morty (Standard)
Spooky Pinball, 2020
Topic Gallery
Quoted from monkfe:Is there a location for the complete game rules?...I found the early one in the key post index, but its not complete...Thanks..
Complete game rules:
Push start button
Push plunger button
Don't let ball fall below flippers
Don't let ball go through far left or far right lanes
Enjoy!
Quoted from monkfe:Is there a location for the complete game rules?...I found the early one in the key post index, but its not complete...Thanks..
Quoted from monkfe:got it ty sir....
edit...but it is missing the moonmen rules....
You’re welcome.
Quoted from monkfe:got it ty sir....
edit...but it is missing the moonmen rules....
Time for you to get crackin' on fleshing that out, then. 
Lethbridge, AB
Getting weird lighting issues since the last update. The timers at both ends stop displaying correctly, sometimes every light turns plain while while flipping, then reverts back when a switch is hit, and now my pop colour is a sea foam green rather than plain white (all the time even during attract mode).
Anyone else encounter this?
Quoted from Soulstoner:Getting weird lighting issues since the last update. The timers at both ends stop displaying correctly, sometimes every light turns plain while while flipping, then reverts back when a switch is hit, and now my pop colour is a sea foam green rather than plain white (all the time even during attract mode).
Anyone else encounter this?
[quoted image]
Did you reseat the cable connectors?
Quoted from Soulstoner:Getting weird lighting issues since the last update. The timers at both ends stop displaying correctly, sometimes every light turns plain while while flipping, then reverts back when a switch is hit, and now my pop colour is a sea foam green rather than plain white (all the time even during attract mode).
Anyone else encounter this?
[quoted image]
I had a similar issue with my pop bumper LED and ended up replacing it.
I don't care how you do it. Get those Flippers lowered to where they belong.
Holy shit, what a difference.
I went with the X Spacers (because I forgot to tell Spooky to throw in bushings with my last parts order from them), thanks NinjaCamp.
Went in easy as can be and the improvement in play is blatant.
Quoted from Eric_S:I had a similar issue with my pop bumper LED and ended up replacing it.
Same here. I've replaced a few lights around the PF also because they were giving me weird color flickering and such. Reseating usually fixed it (not with the pop bumper) but only temporarily. Replacing the bulb fixed it permanently.
I've had some weird lighting issues like 3 of the lights stay solid after a game even through attract mode, a reset usually fixes it. I imagine that type of issue is due to a loose connector but who knows. The LEDs are easy to swap out, and for me has fixed any lighting issues I've experienced to date.
Just finished installing the spacers. Two games in the mid 20 millions. Didn’t think I had an issue but that’s easily double my normal game.
If anyone is replacing their target stickers due to the middle strike points losing their colors, I highly recommend first applying some mylar to the new sticker before application to the target. It seems to have made quite a difference as far as the stickers retaining their original appearance after multiple strikes.
I printed off some x spacers but never got around to installing them before I got the bushings from spooky. If anyone wants them, let me know.
Quoted from goingincirclez:Here's my own diverter smoother, made for free with clear flexible polycarbonate plastic salvaged from throwaway packaging (reduce, re-use, recycle!):
[quoted image]
I simply cut the piece of plastic to fit and laminated it to the diverter flap with clear packing tape (aka mylar) as shown. The plastic covers the screw heads and forms a nice, smooth, even surface for the ball to glide right over them. I installed the flap without removing or adjusting any part of the diverter, and it would be easily removed and replaced if needed. The plastic should be durable and not wear out, but only time will tell.
IMPORTANT NOTE: the overlapping portion on the right side, ends up not being needed! In one of my posts above I described amazement at the difference 1/8" can make... As it turns out, the 1/16 thickness of that plastic flap overlapping the right side wall, was enough to deflect a ball away from the garage entirely, and instead into the spinner lane! It was so smooth I thought my diverter had quit working - but when I removed the house and played the game to investigate, I was shocked to see the ball deflect from that. Yeah: geometry with speed is a cruel bitch So I cut the plastic flap flush with end of the diverter, but still covering the screw heads. There's no binding (my diverter fasteners are not scraping the backboard) and the overlay flap's intended effect is still in place.
The shot is now so smooth and reliable from either direction and path at any speed, it's one of my favorite shots in this or any game.
Now this I would gladly buy. I completely agree this shot is amazing and could be smoother. Your solution looks really good. I wonder if we could somehow combine it with Lounge solution and create the ultimate diverter for this game?
Quoted from goingincirclez:Here's my own diverter smoother, made for free with clear flexible polycarbonate plastic salvaged from throwaway packaging (reduce, re-use, recycle!):
[quoted image]
I simply cut the piece of plastic to fit and laminated it to the diverter flap with clear packing tape (aka mylar) as shown. The plastic covers the screw heads and forms a nice, smooth, even surface for the ball to glide right over them. I installed the flap without removing or adjusting any part of the diverter, and it would be easily removed and replaced if needed. The plastic should be durable and not wear out, but only time will tell.
IMPORTANT NOTE: the overlapping portion on the right side, ends up not being needed! In one of my posts above I described amazement at the difference 1/8" can make... As it turns out, the 1/16 thickness of that plastic flap overlapping the right side wall, was enough to deflect a ball away from the garage entirely, and instead into the spinner lane! It was so smooth I thought my diverter had quit working - but when I removed the house and played the game to investigate, I was shocked to see the ball deflect from that. Yeah: geometry with speed is a cruel bitch So I cut the plastic flap flush with end of the diverter, but still covering the screw heads. There's no binding (my diverter fasteners are not scraping the backboard) and the overlay flap's intended effect is still in place.
The shot is now so smooth and reliable from either direction and path at any speed, it's one of my favorite shots in this or any game.
Where is this on the playfield?
Under the house (right against the backboard). Impossible to see without removing the house. But it can be actuated manually from under the playfield so you should be able to get a "feel" for whether yours is binding or not. I haven't done anything about the screws...yet.
Quoted from goingincirclez:Here's my own diverter smoother, made for free with clear flexible polycarbonate plastic salvaged from throwaway packaging (reduce, re-use, recycle!):
[quoted image]
I simply cut the piece of plastic to fit and laminated it to the diverter flap with clear packing tape (aka mylar) as shown. The plastic covers the screw heads and forms a nice, smooth, even surface for the ball to glide right over them. I installed the flap without removing or adjusting any part of the diverter, and it would be easily removed and replaced if needed. The plastic should be durable and not wear out, but only time will tell.
IMPORTANT NOTE: the overlapping portion on the right side, ends up not being needed! In one of my posts above I described amazement at the difference 1/8" can make... As it turns out, the 1/16 thickness of that plastic flap overlapping the right side wall, was enough to deflect a ball away from the garage entirely, and instead into the spinner lane! It was so smooth I thought my diverter had quit working - but when I removed the house and played the game to investigate, I was shocked to see the ball deflect from that. Yeah: geometry with speed is a cruel bitch So I cut the plastic flap flush with end of the diverter, but still covering the screw heads. There's no binding (my diverter fasteners are not scraping the backboard) and the overlay flap's intended effect is still in place.
The shot is now so smooth and reliable from either direction and path at any speed, it's one of my favorite shots in this or any game.
Good work! I just noticed you also have one of those random screws that were installed to hold the roof of the house down! Here's mine:
IMG_20210327_105141192 (resized).jpgFeature Request: For IMPROVEMENTS TO Jerry Dimension
Replace (or add to) the callouts with various SOUNDS OF COMPUTER GLITCHING? Scott should have some really great glitching effects that could be incorporated here? Maybe even add the "Yes!" callout for more variety?
Other suggestion: Find a more suitable candidate for the "My Man" callout and add that back into the dimension?
Thanks @epthegeek! I really hope you are still working hard on this code, I am having a really great time with this machine!
Quoted from klr650:Feature Request: Jerry Dimension
Replace (or add to) the callouts with various SOUNDS OF COMPUTER GLITCHING? Scott should have some really great glitching effects that could be incorporated here? Maybe even add the "Yes!" callout for more variety?
Other suggestion: Find a more suitable candidate for the "My Man" callout and add that back into the dimension?
Thanks epthegeek! I really hope you are still working hard on this code, I am having a really great time with this machine!
There is a Jerry dimension. Has a "my man" call out that was removed from the game in the latest update.
Quoted from P1nhead:There is a Jerry dimension. Has a "my man" call out that was removed from the game in the latest update.
Why was it removed? It’s one of my favourite quotes from the show 
Also, why is Goodbye Moonmen only half of the song? Again, one of my favourite things from the show cut just short of what it should be.
And lastly, a tech question: how do you remove the pop bumper LED? Just straight up? I took the top off and wiggled it, and noticed it flickered and turned back on when in just the right position. Does spooky send out replacement bulbs, or can we get these from elsewhere?
Quoted from Soulstoner:Why was it removed?
Someone likely complained that it was a stereotype and/or that it was voiced by a Person of Pallor (Jack Danger).
Quoted from guitarded:Someone likely complained that it was a stereotype and/or that it was voiced by a Person of Pallor (Jack Danger).
Oh, so it was a different voice actor used than in the show… interesting. Disappointing but I understand.
Now, someone find a way to edit the code so we can mod the original voices in!
Quoted from P1nhead:There is a Jerry dimension. Has a "my man" call out that was removed from the game in the latest update.
Yes, I am aware, please try reading my entire post?
I was trying to ask for some extra additions to this dimension so that we can move forward and make it fun again.
Quoted from Soulstoner:Oh, so it was a different voice actor used than in the show… interesting. Disappointing but I understand.
Now, someone find a way to edit the code so we can mod the original voices in!
Indeed it is an abomination to hack up the theme just because some snowflake somewhere was offended about nothing.
I finally got to play Rick and Morty, I will say I wasn't too excited at the reveal, but playing it was actually super fun.
It has that one more coin effect, so I ended up playing it for an hour, even there was 40 other games around.
It's a great game, congratulations to all of you owners !
Hello everyone - quick question. I notice that my pop bumper skirt will sometimes get stuck in the down position and seems to get locked up. I have to take the glass off and pull it upward with my finger and then it's fine again. Every hundred games it happens. I have cleaned the area and that hasn't helped.
I did have to change the bulb in the bumper so perhaps when I reassembled it, it is creating friction somewhere? Before I tear the thing apart, was wondering if anyone has had this happened and how they remedied it.
Quoted from orlandu81:Hello everyone - quick question. I notice that my pop bumper skirt will sometimes get stuck in the down position and seems to get locked up. I have to take the glass off and pull it upward with my finger and then it's fine again. Every hundred games it happens. I have cleaned the area and that hasn't helped.
I did have to change the bulb in the bumper so perhaps when I reassembled it, it is creating friction somewhere? Before I tear the thing apart, was wondering if anyone has had this happened and how they remedied it.
Sounds like the skirt is sliding past the spoon and getting stuck? Possibly check to see if the spoon/switch is properly aligned on the skirt.
Quoted from orlandu81:Hello everyone - quick question. I notice that my pop bumper skirt will sometimes get stuck in the down position and seems to get locked up. I have to take the glass off and pull it upward with my finger and then it's fine again. Every hundred games it happens. I have cleaned the area and that hasn't helped.
I did have to change the bulb in the bumper so perhaps when I reassembled it, it is creating friction somewhere? Before I tear the thing apart, was wondering if anyone has had this happened and how they remedied it.
Check if the 2 pop ring nuts are still secure under the PF (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/244#post-6212449). The stock install had 3 washers installed which lead to the lock nuts not having enough threads to stay in place. When I replaced my damaged pop ring, I only used 2 washers IIRC.
Quoted from snaroff:Check if the 2 pop ring nuts are still secure under the PF (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/244#post-6212449). The stock install had 3 washers installed which lead to the lock nuts not having enough threads to stay in place. When I replaced my damaged pop ring, I only used 2 washers IIRC.
Thanks for reminding me about this, I took a look and since I recently changed the bulb in there the nuts were on nicely. The pop ring works great also.
Quoted from damadczar:Sounds like the skirt is sliding past the spoon and getting stuck? Possibly check to see if the spoon/switch is properly aligned on the skirt.
I thought that's what was happening but it didn't look that way when I lifted the PF. The spoon is dead center where the skirt point strikes it. I was able to simulate it getting halfway stuck by hand, and since everything looked good underneath the PF, I assumed it was maybe a slight misalignment of the pop bumper body so I loosened the two screws inside of it and wiggled it a bit. I then slowly tightened them and I'm now unable to simulate it sticking so I'll hope for the best! I'm giving it another cleaning too...man does this area get the dust from all of the action.
I just installed the x-spacers and my score did not magically double my first game. False advertising I want my money back.
On a serious note though, I didn't seem to notice any overly powerful flippers after installing them. Played a few games, didn't notice much different other than I can hit the orbits easier, but the ramps my timing is off.
Quoted from Zablon:On a serious note though, I didn't seem to notice any overly powerful flippers after installing them. Played a few games, didn't notice much different other than I can hit the orbits easier, but the ramps my timing is off.
My timing has gone to hell, but I did have to reduce my power settings to factory. Still on the last code before the latest update here, though.
Quoted from Zablon:I didn't seem to notice any overly powerful flippers after installing them. Played a few games, didn't notice much different other than I can hit the orbits easier, but the ramps my timing is off.
I noticed that dropping the flippers changed the angle of every shot. Once I got used to it, it felt really good. I wish I could sell higher scores, but that I cannot do .
I knew I was going to have to relearn the shots with lowered flippers, since my left one was sitting a tad high already, and wouldn't tighten down where I wanted when I tried to aim it better due to a groove in the shaft. Thankfully the new bushing meant the groove lowered, too, and so it was no longer an issue, the pawl tightened onto the fresh section of shaft just fine and is staying put! Now I can actually aim for and hit the Meeseeks target intentionally!
Having an issue with my game and not sure if it's software or hardware related.
When I win recharge meter my led's don't register anything. But I can recharge hitting the wire/lock shot. It used to top off the led's before.
Is this a known issue?
Quoted from marspinball:Having an issue with my game and not sure if it's software or hardware related.
When I win recharge meter my led's don't register anything. But I can recharge hitting the wire/lock shot. It used to top off the led's before.
Is this a known issue?
Probably just a loose the connector to the antigravity LEDs, I had something similar happen although slower.
Not sure if anyone mentioned this, but it would be killer to have a co-op mode on R&M. Up to 4 Mortys playing with one total score, and use of the same adventure card. This would make it more fun with a bunch of people playing, and more use of the 10th adventure.
Quoted from marspinball:Having an issue with my game and not sure if it's software or hardware related.
When I win recharge meter my led's don't register anything. But I can recharge hitting the wire/lock shot. It used to top off the led's before.
Is this a known issue?
Definitely a loose connector. My meter was recently showing only one green bar but nothing else. Just needed to push connector back onto board and back in business.
Sydney
Quoted from orlandu81:Not sure if anyone mentioned this, but it would be killer to have a co-op mode on R&M. Up to 4 Mortys playing with one total score, and use of the same adventure card. This would make it more fun with a bunch of people playing, and more use of the 10th adventure.
On occasion I've set the game to 9 balls to play co-op with my kids. But yeah, it would be nice if co-op was incorporated into the game with scoring and a quick way to enable it, a la TNA.
Quoted from melumga:On occasion I've set the game to 9 balls to play co-op with my kids. But yeah, it would be nice if co-op was incorporated into the game with scoring and a quick way to enable it, a la TNA.
Great idea as an interim solution!
Quoted from cooked71:Code question for epthegeek …..is there a reason why the number of Megaseeds collected is not shown on the screen?
It's the last number in the score.
Quoted from cooked71:Code question for epthegeek …..is there a reason why the number of Megaseeds collected is not shown on the screen?
Think TNA (:
Always displayed basically, last two score numbers. They are highlighted a unique colour too!
Quoted from klr650:Definitely a loose connector. My meter was recently showing only one green bar but nothing else. Just needed to push connector back onto board and back in business.
Don't think it's a loose connection. Meter led's work fine when it recharges from hits to the wire /lock. Also no charge when the button is pressed after winning recharge meter.
I hosted a tournament at my house today and RaM was one of the games used in the bank and the game froze twice. epthegeek not sure if it’s been mentioned before but the game would freeze at the start of multiball both times. I had the game setup in tournament mode with 4 players playing. Using the 05.18 code. I also streamed some of the game play so I might have caught it on camera. I’ll see if I can find it.
The game freezing was a huge bummer because we had to restart the game since we could not finish the game. Anyone experienced this?
Quoted from cooked71:Code question for epthegeek …..is there a reason why the number of Megaseeds collected is not shown on the screen?
Its the last 2 digits of the player score. This is why the match is based on the 3rd digit.
Quoted from CashMoney:I hosted a tournament at my house today and RaM was one of the games used in the bank and the game froze twice. epthegeek not sure if it’s been mentioned before but the game would freeze at the start of multiball both times. I had the game setup in tournament mode with 4 players playing. Using the 05.18 code. I also streamed some of the game play so I might have caught it on camera. I’ll see if I can find it.
The game freezing was a huge bummer because we had to restart the game since we could not finish the game. Anyone experienced this?
We don't use "tournament mode" in tournaments here generally anyway. Did hear tourney mode had some bugs. We never had to worry about them though, obviously.
Perhaps try not using the tournament mode for now?. Of course it might risk one or two getting upset or flustered about the randomness Lol
Catching it on video always helps, so good work there!
Quoted from flowcanon:It's the last number in the score.
Quoted from razorsedge:Think TNA (:
Always displayed basically, last two score numbers. They are highlighted a unique colour too!
Quoted from Calfdemon:Its the last 2 digits of the player score. This is why the match is based on the 3rd digit.
Thanks guys - had TNA here for years until recently and didn’t even think of that for a rnm doh!
Speaking of - what happened to the more or less confirmed rumours about a small run of TNA after rnm?
Quoted from cooked71:Thanks guys - had TNA here for years until recently and didn’t even think of that for a rnm doh!
Speaking of - what happened to the more or less confirmed rumours about a small run of TNA after rnm?
Chuck confirmed in a podcast earlier in the year I think it was, that there will be (multiple) other titles released after RaM, prior to the Confirmed run of TNA 2.0. This was a fundamental problem with the original poll/title in "spooky next game" thread, anyone been paying attention knew already that TNAve was not going to come straight after RaM.
The poll result seems to reflect this, and numerous posts in that thread highlight it.
I will say though now that there has been an extra run of ACNC, that may count, along with Holloween and the other title.... so may be next after these, or not.
Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
Reply
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!
Donate to PinsideGreat to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
