Hopefully a beefier one. That 20% infill is atrocious.

Read out of context that does read pretty funny.

rd

Wow!

I hope they can help me when my Dick breaks that’s awesome!

Spooky is awesome!

LOL, I hope mine doesn’t break. It’s been doing such a great job.

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You had me at MRS! Man you guys made a run on the bank.... Coindropper is going out today - and I'm about 8 days back in orders...but getting through them....

Matt
M&M Creations

If it bounces on any post it seems to been fairly doable to me. I have it hovering like I described when it passed the spike post and is Out, without touching the sides. Pure reaction time and too slow.

If it gets slowed at all by hitting any post rubber, skill will get it out, but also the ball that would not have gone out may be sent out by misuse of the anti-gravity. Lol

Just noticed my game came with spare screws

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The one made by Harry Houdini is actually an upgrade and uses a metal post inside so this won't happen anymore. Spooky is good and will send you a free one, but it will happen again.

Its not cheap, but its a one time fix and actually looks pleasantly disgusting...

https://pinballmods.co/rick-and-morty-pinball-mods/megaseed-tree-ramp-support

Just something to consider...

Spooky Pinball continues to impress.

I believe it is safe to say that they are the first pinball company to send a customer a new dick.

Like I said this is my first spooky and it won’t be my last ! I mean the powder coat on this baby is better than most of my other machines ! And what a great experience to have a flawless playing game right out of the box I didn’t have to adjust any damn switch !

I sent you a PM about what I did. I didn't want to ream out the inner holes in case I wanted to eventually install the new bushings and go "stock". Basically found some screws that would extend enough to grab the shorter side through the spacer but not expand the holes.

I'm not sure anybody knows why Spooky used shorter screws on half the flipper assembly anyways so it probably doesn't matter.

I used Toyotaboy's QUITE affordable "Xless" spacers (cuz I'm cheap) and they went in quick with no drama. Like others, I turned down the flipper power a bit (starting to get airballs) and they do feel great now at the proper height.

Personally I hate to have to loosen and re-tighten flipper shafts unless I have to. The amount of force needed to get them to stay in position is always a little... alarming

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Anyone else find that the ball with go into the outlane, or go sdtm and then bounce around a bit before actually draining, often costing you a ball even though you had like 2-3 seconds left on your ball save?

Also, on most games, after the time runs out, there is like a one second grace period which this game clearly doesn't have.

Thoughts?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/184#post-6023599

Happens to me all the time. A grace period would be very welcome (as you suggest).

\

Yep.

Make your ball save longer?

Same annoyance for me too. I’ve also noticed it doesn’t properly refund all balls saved during multi-ball if they all drain at once. So, if there’s 3 seconds left of ball save, and 3 balls drain, by the time the second ball is launched into the shooter lane, 3 seconds is up and it doesn’t bother spitting the 3rd out.

Incredibly frustrating.

Yup this. I find you will never get all balls back when the scenario above happens. There’s also ZERO grace period. That’s what I love about Sterns.

It was explained earlier in the thread that the ball saver is not 'unlimited balls until the clock runs out' like other game manufacturers. The R&M is a finite number of ball saves within that time limit. Too many "ball saves" in that time = you don't get them all back. Think of single ball play and the timer - if you drain with time on the clock you use your one mortality field save and the clock is turned off and no more balls are saved.

I agree the swirly drains suck as the timer expires - usually happens on the u turn shot then stdm for me.

The game is already a brutality fest, so hopefully they'll put this into the next code.

There's so much to love about the coding on this game, so hopefully they add this to give you a little more play time to appreciate it all.

I get that you can mess with settings, but I'm OCD about keeping everything factory, as I know many of you are.

Keep up the great work epthegeek

OCD or not, there is no setting to get the behavior you suggest.

There is a setting for saving u-turn drains, which I've enabled. Check it out.

Already maxed it out long ago

Yeah, I saw it in the settings, and I'll likely enable that one.

I remember Ghostbusters had this terribly unfair eject from the scoop that they finally put a ball save on as a default.

I hope that epthegeek decides to put a few of these in by default to cover U-turn, scoop SDTM, and a grace on ball saves for the ball that take 2-3 seconds to get into the trough.

That's the only setting I did set since it happens constantly (u-turn ball save) aside from setting cards to 0.

Yes! It’s very frustrating! I want all my balls back, Summer!

Why not just take the glass off?

That is just wrong, the fun of the u-turn shot is the fast return. If there is no risk, why bother? You're game, do what you want.

Has zero to do with fast return and everything to do with it constantly going sdtm with no way to save it. Got tired of throwing out my shoulders moving the machine across the floor.

Agreed. Half the time mine screams down the middle, which is a shitty payoff for a successful shot… especially in an adventure where you have to hit it.

Such a better game with the save turned on, and I wish Star Wars would have incorporated something similar.

the outer walls of the u-turn will get hammered and bend back a bit, exposing the edges of the front posts for those perfect SDTM deflections. Bend the outer walls back to vertical to eliminate the deflection, then disable the ballsaver.

Trust me, for me, it isn't a big deal. The real woosies are the ones who still have it starting at card 3.

I finally got some time to inspect my game after scratching my head about the really low scoring/features lately. I quickly discovered the captive ball was hanging up on the rollover and not registering, plus discovered during a switch test, the lighted portal mod I'd added in had screwed up the spinner connection on me. took the portal lighting out for the time being. A couple of games later and I'm up to 17m and finally made it Rick Potion No 9 after all this time. Now the improved shooting I've had for a long while is matching the scoring finally. Time to start clocking up some decent scores!

I think the switch issues a lot of us are having (not registering/ bent/ ball hangups) may be due to the same reason the flippers needed new/ shaved bushings.

The thinner playfield means the switches ride too high as well making it easier for the ball to torque them to the side/ bend them sideways. They also have to travel further down to allow ball rollover.

Not sure, but maybe it is adding to the challenges. Who wants to make some switch lowering brackets?? Lol

The magnetic reed switches seem to be a cure-all, and if you choose the ones that are most problematic and only replace those, not that pricey of a playability upgrade.

Actually..you are correct. I thought the switch wires were too high from day one, which also makes them sway left and right too much as well. At the time, I just assumed it was an aesthetic design choice that was just finicky. The thing is..I don't really understand how no one noticed these issues in testing.

Not needed. If there was any issue you could easily fix it with a bend of the switch lever.

If they were too high, the ball would hang up on them.

The only switch issue in the game I’ve found is the right orbit switch up in the corner ... a fast travelling ball will actually jump the switch. I’ve been working on it trying to get the formula right .. I’ve got it about 80-90% so far but not perfect. The magnetic switch upgrade would be an easier option for most.

rd

On my machine the ball has got stuck on the left inlane switch several times. Been meaning to fiddle with it but will probably just go magnetic (like I did the upper playfield) and never think about it again.

Well, over to you ...

You could bend the wire with your fingers for $0 and it’ll work forever too.

Inlane is one switch that doesn’t need upgrading.

rd

When the new one comes, pump some turbulent glue through it. You know, to help make it more rigid. .

?

This dimension has new players (to pinball) so it gets 7 free stamps. The MC multiplier is limited then to a max of 4x (if the player is V good lol) or 2x for full flop. Then there is the choice, or practice #9.

It isn't about being a woos. It's about people enjoying the game. Especially new players, even just so they get greater likelihood to pick and cycle through something. Maintain increased interest than otherwise I would think. Get to see how the system works a bit more clearly, the card stamps.

I would posit that is the opposite of 'woosie' to start at 7 stamps Lol . 12 adventures to go before you can Really blow up Rick potion. Do get a dry run at it though first time around I suppose. But isn't that the true wizard mode marathon right there? . Starting at 7 stamps?

ie: first around MC adventure virtually suppressed potential. Max is 8 stamps to nuke more, meaning max of 3x.

Take a look at posts 4603-4625 in this thread. My game had a rubber ring and post that in the horseshoe that was causing these. It's a quick fix to remove the rubber/post which helped on my machine.

You're absolutely right. I've had to put washers on two of the magnets that the ball was hanging on, and now, my inner orbit isn't registering. I'll probably just try the washer trick, but if someone was able to make a 3D printable piece to fit it, it would definitely look and install better than washers.

Hey Aniraf or toyotaboy you guys feeling bored today?

Yeah that doesn't offer any clue as to why all three flipper mechs use smaller screws on the inside mounts. PF certainly isn't any thinner there and no other assemblies are in the way. I just see Scott telling people not to use flipper spacers and wait for the bushings... 6 months ago.

I finally got around to installing the X-spacers yesterday and like everyone else said, game changer. The difference in how it shoots (for the better) is remarkable. I dialed my lower flipper power down from the stock 30 to 25 and it still has plenty of power. I left the upper at the stock setting of 20 though. I am not getting any airballs off of that flipper, so no need to dial it down.

Now I just need to find the time to finally put in my Mantis garage hole protector...

Did my spacers and garage protector yesterday. Only had time to get one game on it afterwards.

got replacement bushings, how difficult is the swap

Sorry it wasn't clear. As a result of the thinner PF, using the larger screws in visible areas is prone to cause VISIBLE micro humps (the opposite of dimples). The hidden micro humps underneath the sling plastics or apron aren't a big deal since they can't be seen. HTH.

I get that but I *think* the right lower flipper assembly hangs straight down into a visible part of the PF. Maybe that ends up under the sling though. Ok I can see the intent.

That's why I hunted around to find a screw for the spacer that would mimic the small screw. Figured there had to be some reason for the different sizes.

Didn't want to spoil my record of over 20 years of swapping out assemblies etc and never poking a screw through the PF

Seen my share of used beaters with what seemed to be drywall screws coming up out of the PF though. THAT makes an impression you don't soon forget. Ouch

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I did 7 upgrades over the last day including the X Spacers Aniraf ( which have been amazing) The Blue Crystal mod xfassa (Looks Great), New Shooter Lane Wire Form from Terry at PBL(Works perfect every time) The magnet Rollover switches from Sonic (These things work like a dream and i wish i had bought more),Shaker motor( because for some reason there was miscommunication at the time of ordering and it got missed, honestly tho it didn't add as much to the game that i thought it would) Anti Rattle Tape that northerndude so kindly mailed to me, thanks again ( This was a major upgrade, i didn't realize just how much this thing was rattling, add a shaker motor and it only got worse but the tape took 70% of the noise out) and finally the Mantis Portal hole protector ( it took no time at all for install so don't hesitate to put it in, i think it took all of 10minutes) All these Mods have worked awesome so far and a huge thanks and shout out to everyone who has contributed to Mods and upgrades on this amazing title!