Click on "Show Topic Index" at the top of any page in this thread. Then click on Keypost Summary to sort by that, then expand the list and scroll down to the "TECH" section. One for CODE links to the post with a picture of where to find this port. Lots of other good tech info indexed there for a new user, too.

I tried that but unfortunately, my board doesn't look like the one pictured. I've tried both ports and I've downloaded it twice and I'm using the FAT32 format. Maybe it doesn't like the USB brand.

Ah, I didn't even realize they had changed PC boards. I think you definitely want the one on the right in your picture, though. Some USB brands are just not welcome for some reason. I found a few that work and I keep those just for pinball updates...

Also, note that not all the ports on that board are USB 3.0. Your stick could be being rejected because it's 2.0 in a 3.0 or 3.0 in a 2.0 even thought they're SUPPOSED to be interoperable. So maybe try different ports in the stack according to this diagram...

asrock-J4125B ports spooky (resized).jpg

I had one that worked perfectly with my Wonka but it got lost in a move so I'm using a 8GB SamData now but not much luck. I'm having other issues with the machine that Spooky is trying to figure out so I'll ask them about the stick when I talk to them next. Has anyone used a USB extension so it's closer to the coin door for easier access?

I wanted to thank you guys in the owners thread. You have been a great help.

I am having 1 more issue. The ball gets hung up in the right orbit, at the switch and rolls back down. It also doesn’t register when you hit the shot in an adventure.
Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

Dana

It’s holding up great, although I could write pages of small things, but it’s pretty solid now, just wax and wiggle those fuc@ing light board connectors to get them working again.

Did some more modding on the R&M over the weekend. Still need to order a sheet of PDI glass, but it’s coming along. The HookedOnPinball side rail and hinge EL lighting kits are just BAD ASS! Next project is to install the LED flipper button kits and x-spacers under the flipper assemblies. Are you guys installing any sort of playfield protection on this game? Any Mylar or PETG washers?

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Magnetic Reed Switch from Sonic fixed that issue for me.

First, the game looks awesome, Second, it made my day to see the portal protector on a game outside of my own! Hopefully it was an easy install.

Adult Swim has released the Rick and Morty Season Five Premiere episode, UNCENSORED, on YouTube!

That group of people in the wine aging portal, OMG, hilarious side show of the episode

So no disrespect to KingPinGames and @pinMonk, as I might be the only one who still likes printed manuals these days... I found the ones posted a few months ago to be... somewhat lacking in that respect (readability, formatting). I've been re-editing the manual for (subjective) improvements in that regard for readability, clarity, and formatting.... plus making edits, clarifications, and additions as I've noted them: Things like a few rule tweaks based on Bowens' stream, some typical troubleshooting, etc.

Does anyone have a rule summary for Moonmen? This is one of two modes I've yet to complete for some reason and even then I'm not entirely sure what the objective is. I know you're supposed to get all the colored crystal shots, presumably in 30 seconds... what happens after that?

Were the Rubber Ring and/or other tech charts ever posted somewhere? They don't seem to be on Spooky's site.

Take off the glass.

Totally agree. I only made a couple pages as an example of what a Spooky pin manual COULD be. The rest of the PDF I posted was untouched.

Has anyone installed Pinmonk's new fans with the X-Spacers?

Trying to figure out what screws I would need for the two points when the fan bracket goes.

Thanks!

LOL... I considered this breifly myself, but there are some aspects of the game I'd like to witness and earn properly. It was hard to watch Bowen's stream... nothing beats seeing and hearing something yourself the first time with no spoilers!

Well in that case, if you or anyone else is interested, the link to view the WORK IN PROGRESS is here:

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1P6kJ9a-lIiPmd7BqrecN0CxTGaDLR3ty4Bt6_XIUThM

The Table of Contents in Google Docs view seems to work OK-ish but isn't my intent at this point; Hard (printed) page numbers are close but not final. And I don't have prettiest images because I don't have a proper (meaning, paid-to-unlock) PDF editor to extract the originals. But you get the idea. I'd love to get diagrams and charts like old WMS manuals because a few years from now, this game could be an enigma - the PF is a rat's nest as it is. But I only have so much time and would rather be PLAYING the game as well

If ya'll see value in this I'll gladly consider feedback for adjustments - otherwise I'll continue indulging my own dumb flavor of OCD.

Fixing the formatting alone made it so much better.

Also, if you have photoshop, you can extract images from PDFs that way. Just select "images" instead of "pages" when it asks you what part of the PDF to import and it will let you pull any of the images in that pdf.

I am perfectly okay with anyone else doing the manuals. It is not something I ever wanted to do. I did them because something needed to be done.

If someone wants to take it over then that's fine by me (obviously it has to be okayed by spooky still).

Just now taking my ramps off to replace my plastic under the ship spring and noticed that the left screw on the left ramp entrance was shorter than my other 3 ramp entrance screws. Is this normal?

Same here.

Yup - normal

Hey, it was a solid start and I'm not picking on you at all! I appreciate your work otherwise we'd likely all still have nada. Just I've worked in publishing / editing a fair bit and knew it could be "better". No worries. I don't envy the task of starting from scratch, and documents of this nature truly are a team effort.

Installed my new Aniraf flipper X-spacers yesterday and my first game out was a mode high score and 3rd highest overall, and that was with a total whiff of ball three and no extra ball. So snappy, so clean, feels like a whole new game! Strongly recommend them, or the updated bushings, or whatever you need to do.

Now if only somebody could 3d print me some actual pinball skills, I'd be getting Rick Potion #9 in no time

Yes, if you put the longer screw in the shorter screw hole, it sticks down into the subway below and blocks the ball. That is the reason for the shorter screw.

A little help needed on the magna save magnet. I installed Aniraf’s spacers which made a huge difference in my ability to hit the upper loop and garage shot. But now my magnet is not working.

Pressing the flipper still drains the juice and it still makes the same noise, but there’s no longer any magnetism bringing the ball back from the outlane.

I must have loosened a connection or wire somewhere, but everything looks good. Does anyone have any ideas on what I should check?

Ah, I was curious why the short screw was needed; thanks.

I’ve got a head scratcher. My ship stopped working (the tilt mech). It works fine when I test the coil…with the playfield up and down…but during play it doesn’t tilt. I think the optos for this coil are the ones just in front of the horseshoe. With the glass off it sounds like the coil fires, but the plunger won’t rise. Nothing seems to be binding and again, it works fine in the service menu. Am I wrong on which optos fire the coil?

For those of you who put the X spacers in, is everyone using the default flipper power levels? I installed the spacers today.

My game is currently at 6.5, I just read that Scott Danesi says 6.9 is optimal. Although the portal shot is makable, I’m hoping getting it to 6.9 will make it a little smoother.

I play at 6.9, have the X spacers installed, and like the feel at 25-27 when freshly waxed, or 27-28 after a number of games. I also left the upper flipper at the default (20 I believe). No issues hitting any of the shots.

Two part post...first I wanted to thank AJ and Morgan for helping me through the issues I was having a couple of my posts. All was remedied quickly and I couldn't be happier with the result.

Second, I wanted to give a shout out to Cliffy for his protectors that can and should be used on Rick and Morty. Fantastic service as usual and quality products. Below are some pics...I have drop target protectors, drain hole protector, shooter lane full kit, and carbon fiber post bases on a number of my posts.

cliffy drain (resized).jpeg

cliffy posts (resized).jpeg

cliffy shooter lane (resized).jpeg

cliffy targets (resized).jpeg

You remember how the second switch in the loopback was programmed out on a previous release? I notice that the top right rollover has also now been deprecated at least to the extent that the Extra Ball is awarded on the left rollover now. Maybe more, haven't played enough just lately to say. Had to gather gumption to do those bushings, don'tcha know. (I confess I still have to do the upper. But GOD it feels like a new, much improved game with just the lowers!)

I hate to say it (no, I don't) but to me those pricey magnetic rollovers are looking more and more silly, as expensive Band-Aids on R&M, anyway. I lament how some of this cool tech is destined to languish reporting switch hits that no longer do much, if anything.

On the other hand, I would expect them to be used everywhere on CE level games henceforth! I never thought they were anything but awesome! Just the ticket for the ultimate game, I wish nothing but the best for @Sonic! They perform exactly as advertised, and there is nothing to ever wear out!

I suppose I just grew up poor, never mind me.

Should be used? Out of all modern machines I'd say R&M is the one that needs protectors less than any other! Have you had problems with any of these areas?

Yes I have.

And yes, modern machines like R&M have a clear coat, which reduces the PF wear. Even if those areas look good today after 3K plays, what will they look like after 30K? It’s an inexpensive security blanket that is not permanent, and it supports a valued member of the community.

I had an issue with the bottom left flipper where it would drop completely when any type of force hit it. I found that the EOS was making intermittent contact because the wire was wrapped around the lug, and not soldered. It also blew a couple of fuses. After soldering it to the lug it's making contact every time now. Maybe it was my imagination, but the flipper isn't dropping as easy anymore. I know the bottom two have that trampoline effect still when the ball smacks them hard, but not horrible.

I was told the upper flipper gets smacked down pretty easily when the ball is going fast enough around loops. I have the hold power set on high, is there no way to fix this? I didn't see an EOS on that flipper mech.

Yep I ordered the playfield protector before the game arrived. Put it on after less than a dozen games.

It made the game flip so much better, turns out that was probably alot to do with correction to some extent for the extra thin playfield, and more functional flipper height.

No regrets at all in fitting it. Even had protector haters fail to notice that the game had one fitted Lol

I also made a lexan protector for the shooter lane.

*Note: the "playfield protectors" one does not fit without trimming, I had to trim alot of places. Seemed like it was made to suit a prototype or something, posts in different places etc.. I emailed them a couple of times about it but no response. Just heads up for anyone. I had pics with the offending areas and all.

Can anyone advise as to which MRS to get? The Australia distributer isn’t certain which ones are used in R&M.

Also, I’m assuming missed switch hits are it’s main MO, but I’ve heard a few mention flow is better… or something along those lines. Can anyone who uses them elaborate, as they aren’t a cheap mod.

PM Sonic . He is Very helpful. Also the Oz distributor seemed to be incommunicado to Matt and myself, but Matt suspected the correct switches are not in stock in australia at this time. He (Matt) sent me 3 as well as some SoF parts.

So you’re using them on R&M?? If so, does actually the actual shooting change? I remember reading something about the orbits.

Can anyone help me figure out how you would measure how much power is going to your flipper. I am having issues again with fast power fade on the right flipper, so I want to rule out any issues with wiring.

I have a multimeter, so just wondering what I'd need to hook it up to, what I'd be messing, and what the reading should be.

If anyone could help, I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks

I got them only a few days ago direct from Matt @Sonic, not installed yet. Have to take the experience of others.

I adjusted my switches so they are very reliable at registering. But sometimes still fast balls, or with slight amount of air-time or something, do fail to register now and then... so I decided to take the plunge and give them a try.

Game would have benefited from having optos there.

If you have not lowered your flippers with bushing or spacer, do that.

Then you will be able to turn power down ALOT, which will mean less heat builds up.

Also if the action is not nice and free, or is binding at all, this can contribute quite a bit.

I'm not sure how measuring the current of the power setting you have selected will help anything?. Might be a fun exercise, but won't give you a solution will it?.

I’m definitely missing switch hits on the inner loop. How adjustable are those switches?

i have never restarted any game after a bad first ball .. i view it as a bad habit ..

Magnetic switches made a big difference on my game - didn’t realize how many switches were being missed.

More than a bad habit, sacrilege!

Man, installed the Spooky bushings and rebuild the flippers yesterday. Wow, the game is playing great/smooth now. Lowering the flippers and making sure they are setup and adjusted properly makes a huge difference on this game.

IMG_4193 (resized).jpeg

I've rebuilt the flippers, and adjusted them numerous times. I've also done this on many other machines, and never had an issue.

What's strange is that I finally got it so it was making the shot, worked for about a month, and now it's back to not making it up the ramp again.

I'm waiting fory X-Spacers since my 3D printer broke down, or the Spooky bushings, whichever arrives first.

But if I'm the only one that has the issue of not being able to make the ramp, I'm not sure lowering is my fix.

Thoughts?

I doubt this is your issue, but here is something that happens to me occasionally (and might impact someone later).

My backboard flexes a bit when I'm lifting the PF a lot. I imagine it's on screws/brackets that could be tightened, however getting to them is likely difficult without taking the PF out (which I'm not going to do).

So...the other day I was getting rejects from the left ramp after installing my bushings. Reason: the left ramp top is supposed to be within the cutout. If the ramp isn't within the cutout (as a side-effect of the backboard flexing), the ball will get rejected.

I have not received any bushings from spooky. Are these being sent out or do I need to call?

You need to shoot them an email requesting the new bushings and they'll send them right out. I emailed [email protected] and had them in a couple of days.

Cool thanks for the reply