Is the diverter supposed to be very loud?

Screws are probably hitting the cabinet.

I didn't mean to jack your mod btw, I just think a giant X requires too much to be removed.. But my thingiverse literally has a link to the screw you need. Mcmaster has nearly everything you could ever need, and pretty much everything is in stock, and most things are in bags of 100.

https://www.mcmaster.com/92470A196

No apologies needed! Different people are going to have different designs...that is what is fun about this .

For the record, the "X" portion on my design is simply there to make lining up all of the little "pads" easier. I wanted a solution that I could install with one hand. Also there is no need to remove the X portion. It will just sit under the flipper mech. It was specifically designed as an X so that it was both strong and unable to interfere with other components. My initial designs were rectangles.

If people like your solution I say they should totally go for it. It saves filament and as you've shown you can make them and ship them for way less than I could ever dream of doing . This "mod business" isn't exactly my first priority on the job front. Also...people like PinMonk run circles around my abilities. I just happened to have a few ideas that might improve the game we all love.

Oh, and on the screws you linked...I have been trying really hard to persist the slotted hex screws that come standard on the game. If you want to switch to pan head, that is certainly an option. Maybe I'm being too anal on that...I just like my pinballs to use hex .

toyotaboy it looks like that site you recommended might have the screws I'm using too...they are more expensive than the places I've mentioned. https://www.mcmaster.com/92470A196/drive-style~slotted/screw-size~no-8/length~5-8/tip-type~pointed/.

TY for the other reference for future fastener needs. I've never done this so ideas are really appreciated!

I did just get notice that one of my orders shipped today though...so I'm really hopeful now!

Those are metric.. an M4 is probably an equivalent to an 8-32, but most people aren't going to have a torx bit either. If you really want a slotted hex screw, you want this: https://www.mcmaster.com/90054A196/

R&M BSE…meet PDI glass.

I am so spoiled on this glass now, but only buy it for the machines I plan on keeping forever given the price. The difference is mind blowing though!

F3EAE58A-FD2B-4135-B478-C5756F3C1F9E.jpeg

I am a sucker for that glass too. There are a few things in pinball I would have never thought made a difference but I was wrong.

Oh yeah, my link goes to the totally wrong place. Your link is correct.

Thank you Aniraf for putting your spacer up on Thingiverse. I installed them in mine and wow, what a great improvement. I used 1/2 inch screws though and they hold just fine. Hopefully no one switches to the correct bushings whenever Spooky releases them and still uses the 5/8 inch screws - that would not be good.

These are the new shorter nylon flipper bushings made especially for Spooky machines.
Terry.

i noticed you said "made especially for spooky machines" instead of "made especially for spooky rick and morty machines". does that imply that spookys 2021 release will still have a thinner than standard playfield which will require these shorter bushings as well?

The Pinballife website says: "Used on all Spooky pinball machines from 2014 to present. Spooky reference #300-0199-00."

So...no...this is probably not the lowered bushing we have been clamoring for...

Just set up #748 and other than tweaking the bass/sub settings on the amp and adding some zip ties under the glass channel to get rid of the rattle and adjusting the monitor settings to make it blacker from my viewing angle, it was playing like a dream right out of the box.

The only nit pick I even have is that the scoop seems to reject a little more than I think it should, but that seems to be getting better with every game.

This is my first Spooky game and the overall build quality is fantastic.

Awesome job guys and well worth the 18-month wait!

Scoop ejections are very real. It seems like mostly you have to tap it in or it gets rejected.

I have found that the scoop is picky, but consistent (in either its rejects or holds). If it is a clean shot with the right flipper, using a low to medium velocity, it should stick every time. I find that if the ball is moving quickly and you go for the scoop with high velocity, the ball can reject quite often. The left flipper I have a little more inconsistency, but it is similar to the right flipper. For example, upon scoop upkick it sends the ball to the right flipper. I can often send it right back to the scoop and have it stick. I think at one point I hit this shot 8 times in a row. Sadly, there are no points for that

I found a trick though that works for me. If I'm trying to shoot the inner orbits, I hit the scoop no problem.

This seems like a big deal. I've been happy with my machine as is, but going to order some anyway

Haha. Yes, I have noticed I get exactly 0 bounce outs when I am not aiming for it and it is not lit. Funny how that works.

Flailing in a multiball is also a great way to hit the scoop.

Yes! I believe the 1/2 inch screws would work with the spacers as some of the screws spooky is using are 3/8ths. My logic was simple, add 1/8th of an inch in plastic...add 1/8th of an inch in screw. The theory is that if Spooky used a 1/2 inch screw and you put the 1/8th inch spacer in then went to 3/8ths inch screw you are technically filling the exact same void that was there in the first place.

If you want to use my spacers with 1/2 inch screws, go for it. I have not personally tested this but the logic is pretty straight forward. I would not use them with 3/8ths inch screws. So when you unscrew your flipper mech and end up with a random grab bag of 3/8ths and 1/2, make sure you put the 3/8ths aside and get more 1/2 .

Also, like loneranger said...absolutely do not remove the spacer and install 5/8ths screws. If you get or make a shorter bushing and don't like the spacer then remove it and go back to 1/2 inch screws. Effectively they will be at the exact same factory depth just like the 5/8ths were with the spacer.

That is a lot of fraction speak...hopefully this makes sense .

Are the spooky shorter screws #6 or #8. And are the longer replacement screws the same # as spookey uses?

Someone left a present in my driveway.

Well Hello

Yeah, that's a shiny 'vette behind that big dumb box...

Agreed send more pics of the vette. My guess its a 69 stingray

Yup. I can’t really see the spring from my angle while playing so hand’t noticed until I took the picture.

Not completely clear, but does seem more translucent than the earlier part.

For those that are curious, all three flippers are white with black rubbers. Tall post rubbers are black. Small post rubbers and sling shot rubber are clear.

Never.

Actually on RM sometimes you don’t really have a choice but to flail during multiball especially if you added the other 2 balls! With that damn pop bumper in place of a sling the speed during multiball gets insane! (F’ing love it)

Last night I was playing GNR and had a 6 ball multi ball going for a good while. But even though that gets crazy because the balls can stay low by the flippers it’s not as insane and fun as a 5 ball multi ball on RM.

RM and GNR are both great games but the multiballs on RM are just stupid crazy fun!

So glad I own this pin!
Can’t wait to get a TNA 2.0.

Want to downvote but can't bring myself to do it.

I wonder how many games are in Toronto/GTA. So far, I count 3.

I heard EP has a contract to write new modes/dimensions until the show is cancelled..so we got like a good 5+ years of new material to look forward to.

...well..it was in some dimension, maybe not this one.

I tried a new strategy for Morty's choice. Instead of automatically picking rick potion #9, I went for Moonmen. I don't always win moonmen, but have been able to crush it on occasion with my best being two sets of orbs. With 40 megaseeds and five X multiplier, I went for it. Wasn't my best moonmen but I did get one set of orbs plus a few extra shots to net 50M for that mode. At the end of the ball, the megaseeds doubled that for a bonus of 100M+. The morty's choice adventure alone banked a freaking crazy 150M!

20210609_234923 (resized).jpg20210609_234945 (resized).jpg20210609_234953 (resized).jpg

Crazy ass score!

So, at the end of each ball, you get a "value for each seed". How is this calculated, and us it based on the "score this ball"?

I get that the bonus is then the "value of each seed" multiplied by the number of Megaseeds you've collected.

Each mega seed = 5% of your score on that ball.

So it's...

(Ball score) X 5% X (Number of seeds)?

So, I saw the ad for the flipper standoffs and I had an epiphany. One of my 'complaints' about R&M is that most of the time when the ball hits the flippers, rather than bounce or bounce to the other flipper, it just hits, rolls down the flipper and drains. It happens more on this game than any other game I've played. Up until this point, I attributed it to the flipper rubbers (and I've been too lazy to get different ones). However, today it occurred to me, that maybe it isn't the rubbers, but instead the high flippers? Anyone can confirm if they saw this, and it happens less after lowering the flippers?

#738 is finally in the house!

I've been abstaining these long 18 months since I placed the order, having only played the debut machine at Louisville Expo in Mar 2020, and that same machine on location briefly just twice since. Haven't watched any streams or vids either. WOW but what a difference! Updated to the 6/18 code and there is so much to see, and since I suck as a player I have my work happily cut out for me ha ha.

So here's something I suspected but wanted to see for myself first: to those of you who haven't addressed the flipper bushings or purchased a shim-brace kit, if you have a bunch of old switches in your derelict parts stash - or maybe a pending parts order - a Switch Stack Spacer *perfectly fits* the "feet" on a flipper bracket! I just so happened to have enough in my hoard and installed these (I also had some #6 x 1/2 screws) and the flippers are basically perfect height. I had some 1/16 spacers and stacked two of those to get the 1/8 adjustment; obviously single 1/8 spacers would work too.

I will warn you that installing them - especially on the upper right flipper - can be quite tricky with all the tight clearances and stuff in the way. The "mod" parts made available by others here are quite a bit more elegant and doubtlessly easier overall, so may be worth the money. BUT again, if you have some old switches lying around, you can essentially try this for free and see what you think. The left flipper is easy, the lower right is slightly more difficult, but the upper one SUCKED.

Anyway aside from a fluke bad fastener on a flipper mech, our game seems relatively trouble free out of the box - er, wrap! I do have some weirdness on the right orbit feed to the upper flipper though - it's like the ball sometimes "bounces" off the rail somehow. I'll look into that in a bit.

CONGRATS AND THANK YOU to Scott, Erik, Charlie, Morgan, the Minions, and everyone at Team Spooky on this phenomenal game! The first time I heard Rick yell "shut the fuck up about moonmen!" as my daughter was playing made the wait so very worth it

I've noticed an improvement in this as well. Lowering the flippers seems to improve the knockdown and the ability to dead bounce. I do not have a scientific measurement of this but as I've stated before...I'm shocked that it made that big of a difference.

I picked up #749 yesterday morning, and I'm loving the game. I tweaked the rail for the garage shot a bit but it's not as bad as I expected. It's not intended to be an easy shot.

The game SOUNDS fantastic.

I made a PBL order for some rubbers, bushings, quieter fans (for R&M and TNA), flipper wear protectors, and misc. stuff.

The shots feel good. I just have to get used to the magna save. I did use it successfully once.

Nudge and Tap. Don't mash.

Game is f'n incredible. Set your card to 0 adventures and you will work a long time to get to Love Potion #9!

For the life of me, I can’t find where the USB goes to update the code. It seems to be in a completely different place than on TNA. Anyone got a pic of where it is, so I can see and then feel like an idiot?

I am not home for a pic, but I had to use my phone in selfie mode to see the underside of the board (bottom right of the back box) to find the correct usb

bottom right of mobo, just drop the speaker panel, no need to remove the backglass

The USB ports face down, it's a metal block coming off the motherboard

So, I've done all the mods and the game is playing a lot nicer, but I'm having a couple of issues.

One, I can't really backhand the right ramp. I've fixed the bushings and upped the right flipper power, but it's still not happening often.

Two, the kickout from the portal doesn't hit the inlane straight ever and usually bounces right, or worse, left. Any adjustments for that?

Ha, I'm fine with the default where it spots you 4 adventures. I also tightened the outlane posts (I'm awful).

Check out the key posts. Lots of good info there. On the portal eject issue, here is the key post on that one:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/274#post-6289381

That weird as that is the only shot I can hit consistently every time and I haven’t adjusted anything yet.

Flipper angle might be set a bit off (steep) for that to be the issue. I know I can take away the backhand to lock on my FT if I set the angle right.

Thanks everyone. Found it and updated the code. Glad I asked. I definitely wouldn’t have found it.