Yeah just go flip and enjoy this masterpiece, because it legit is. One of the downsides of following these club threads while you’re waiting for your game is that when it finally comes you can’t help but focus your attention on all the problem areas that everyone is bitching about rather than enjoying your new game. If something doesn’t seem right come back and search or ask. Lots of helpful and knowledgeable folks here.

The show is brilliant, well worth watching and will definitely increase your enjoyment. Plenty of subtle in jokes.

I’ve had my Rick and Morty for a little over a week and it has been a great game. A few issues have come up.

1. In some adventures the background music turns into the chordal drone, and happens randomly. Doesn’t affect gameplay.
2. After a game sometimes the background music sounds distorted, almost as if underwater. Doesn’t affect gameplay.
3. Anyone have these odd playfield marks? I didn’t notice these when I unboxed and checked the game. They’re only visible from certain angles, not from the player’s view. They aren’t raised or sunken and appears to be beneath the clear. They don’t distort when pressed. Hoping it isn’t some kind of separation of the clear and playfield and that it doesn’t get worse. Doesn’t affect gameplay.

A5731C5E-1C20-4E5E-BAD0-9A1890BEFF3C (resized).jpeg

For those that have sanded their flipper bushings down, how did you do this exactly? Did you use a type of sander or just back and forth on a flat surface with sandpaper down?

I put my belt sander upside down in my vice. I put some electrical tape on the bushing of how far I wanted to go down to, just held the bushing onto the belt until I hit that tape.

I posted all of the instructions for purchase here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aw-jeez-official-rick-and-morty-club/page/280#post-6305739. Or you can PM me and I’ll get you the details and start printing .

Mini pipe cutter on mine. Gives a nice square flat surface and is very quick.

PXL_20210515_031341319 (resized).jpg

Is the game playing much better with the shaved down bushings?

Awesome idea!

This is what I was considering doing, but I thought you could probably even do it with the bushing mounted on the PF still, that would be far less work.

Nope , don t try that !!
too many chance to ruin the playfield

Yeah, I guess the bushing probably doesn't extend far enough above the PF to fit the pipe cutter...

But how about my cordless grinder?!?

Charlie made me do it!

Got a ball stuck on top of the U-Turn target. Let game cycle through multiple ball searches for 5minutes without the ball or target underneath moving. Had to lift game up to free it. I would think the software would at least cycle the targets, but no luck.

pasted_image (resized).png

Looks like your target is sticking up a bit too high.

Game on location and the employee on duty had keys and didn't feel comfortable going into the game or letting me fix it for them. Oh well.
Would think a ball search would clear it out or cycle the target, but no. Target worked otherwise during gameplay.

Rick and Morty doesn't kick out another ball when ball search fails? Isn't kicking out another ball after a few rounds of ball search fail kind of a standard pin thing, with the hope that the bonus ball knocks the stuck ball free (wherever it is)?

I think JJP calls it a chase ball.

Whenever I have one hang up on R&M I just call a meeseeks and have them get it.

Stern calls them chase balls and can be turned off/on via a software setting. No idea if JJP has such a setting or not.

I have seen that before in automotive paint. In the shop it was fixed by blowing how air to the paint and also polishing.
You can try using a blow dryer and carefully blow how air the area while making sure you do not burn or melt anything?

Mind you, typically when we saw this type of paint defect it was typically moisture trapped under the paint, I am not sure how that would happen on a piece of wood as it is in this case... So the issue you have here might be totally unrelated.

I also thought it could be separating but not sure that is possible... Maybe contact Spooky and see what they say? maybe it is just a paint defect that reflects light in an particular way.

Yeah, looks like the clearcoat is delaminating. Contact Spooky.

mine does this too, they need to update the code so the targets pop up and release it.

Your target is likely too high or too low and just needs a slight adjustment.

I tried a few little nudges with no luck. Didn't to bang on the game hard.
**Yes the target sits to high. Easy fix.

Hello everyone! I received my PBL wireform upgrade today but just wanted to confirm what the hardware pieces are used for before I install the new one from anyone who has installed theirs already. The original came out easy…the one screw on top. I imagine the washers and nuts will go on the ends of the new wire form but what of the extra two different sized screws and this plastic piece?
image (resized).jpg

I believe the plastic "top hat" and screw are used to put something in the original hole that is no longer needed with this.

Ok that looks right...wonder why they sent two though...one is longer and has a flat head and the other is shorter with a round head. I am guessing that I am to use the round head one to cover the hole, OR use the flat head one with the spacer to cover the hole? Just want to make sure before I install.

I wish I could find the picture I saw of this before they took it down from the website. The only thing I recall is that is was just a silly thing they did to put something where that hole was. Mr. Poopy Butthole reference or something I am fairly sure.

pasted_image (resized).png

I used the "top hat" to secure the new purple wireform. I think it is impossible to get a screwdriver in there otherwise. Nuts secure the game from the botton. I think the other screw can be used to fill the original hole, since you need a new one for the new wireform.
morty (resized).jpg

Interesting...is there more than one correct way to do this? I used the top hat and the flat screw to hide the original hole and used the original screw and washer for the new hole. Some instructions would have been nice :/
AD788E04-AEBC-4418-87DA-D860E46BC0AB (resized).jpeg

I tried that as well at first, but I just couldn't get my screwdriver low enough to secure the screw. If it works it works. I had no instructions either.

I installed it back when it was on the PBL website and followed their directions and pictures.

The Mr. Poopy Butthole hat is used to cover the old hole with the flathead screw. The round head screw holds down the new wireform.

That is how the pictures and description had it on PBL before they took it down.

What is the difference with the new wire form? It looks like it doesn’t have a catch at the end?

Omg! That is way better! That is a paid upgrade?

Its the aftermarket one that Pinball Life came up with. It is not currently up on their website but rumor is you can contact them and still get one. Originally came in purple or black.

I can’t figure out what is up with PinballLife, is it owned by Scott Danesi or does he work there or something? Even this game is weird, he posts all the time on the Total Nuclear Annihilation thread but never on this thread. Was there some kind of falling out with this game where he is off creating better parts but not talking about them? Maybe they are completely unrelated and I don’t know what I’m talking about.

I have to say, with the flippers lowered and everything dialed in, the game is fantastic. There are some pretty nasty design flaws but the core of the game is really great. Maybe without COVID we could have seen a little more iteration in the functional pars. The code/rule design is excellent! It has to be one of the best theme integrations ever done. The fact that I am still getting new dimensions and random call outs is great.

The small nuts and washers hold the new ramp down under the playfiled. The original screw on the original ramp hold the ramp down on the rail but in a different spot. The black screw goes in the old hole. The tapered screw and top hat go on the rail where the ball comes out on the new ramp. This will prevent any balls that will get trapped on the rail.

It may be hard to see on my game but thats what I figured it would be without any reference pics and/or instructions. Works great!

IMG_1150 (resized).JPG

Rick and Morty Standard Edition #745 invoice received and paid in full as of yesterday!
Perhaps the last one off the line?

Should be shipping out today, wubba lubba dub dub!
Now, to plan an unboxing party...

I'm still waiting for 736 to ship and I paid on 5/17 - don't be cutting the line!

I'll be picking up #738 on June 7... woulda been the past week/end if the wonders of medicine hadn't damn near killed and sent me to the ER instead. God bless Spooky for being so cooperative! Now I wonder if ours will be the last to leave? Will be interesting to see how many are still lying around

Oh no! Hope you are feeling better now, malpractice lawsuits are real. We had asked Spooky if they would hold it for a couple months (we're getting ready to move) but that was a no go. I'll just have to move 4 machines instead of 3

Lol, my wife was told yesterday if we paid then it could ship out today! We'll see what happens, shipping company will allegedly contact us to setup the delivery date/time sometime soon...which is good since the pallet isn't going to fit through our apartment door

Any strategies on getting big points?

I know the Megaseeds multiply something at the end of each ball, but what the trick to getting scores up to really make use of those Megaseeds?

Also, what does the multiplier down near the flippers represent and do?

Thanks!

How do you hit the left ramp and the spinner shot, orbit on the left? Each machine I have played they are close to impossible to make. Does the flipper power need to be increased, or is it a flipper alignment problem? Shots marked with green arrows.

pasted_image (resized).png

Shaved bushings or spacers is my vote. I've seen such a difference that it feels like a whole new game to me!

All those shots were designed to be hard. I suck at side flipper shots in general and can make the spinner and garage shot probably 1 out of 4 shots I try. The left ramp should be makeable if you hit it clean with latest code and upping the right flipper power, shaving the bushings down will probably help also but don't think its a necessity. Also with the flippers make sure your eos and cabinet switches are adjusted properly.

Right lower flipper almost to the edge is left ramp
Upper right flipper 2/3 down to hit spinner orbit
Upper right flipper almost to the edge to get far left orbit

That pic sure looks like the left orbit has not been adjusted in the middle it is almost a straight line rather than curved. It should almost follow the plastic shape. If you get lots of rattle and denies, the orbit needs adjusted.

Making the orbit wall adjustments on all make things way smoother. I am sure the bushing shavings may help even more.