(Topic ID: 257850)
Linked Games
Rick and Morty (Blood Sucker Edition)
Spooky Pinball, 2020-
Rick and Morty (Standard)
Spooky Pinball, 2020
Topic Gallery
Northern California, CA
Quoted from onemilemore:So, finally got out to a location and played this game and it did not disappoint. Was set up a little flat, but still able to hit all the shots as needed. Saw nearly all the modes (except Total Rickall) and jumped plenty of dimensions (swamp was horrible though - way too much bass and buzzing). Even had a nice save with the magnet. Just so much fun and insanely immersive. If I can convince my wife that the censored mode is PG enough (lol) I might stand a chance of bringing it home one day.
Bummer, total Rickall is my favorite. I love how every shot gives a clip and you see the gun flash in the house.
Quoted from BowlingJim:17 months I waited for my game to have this happen.
I fell and broke my wrist and have to wear this for the next 8 weeks.
[quoted image]
Awww man sorry to hear that. Game will still be fun with one good wrist, heal up soon!!!
Quoted from TrekTobbyGermany:I think the idea with spacers is fine. I even think it will last. Why not? It's just a spacer...
But I think your spacer is really too thick. Have in mind that the bushings will get play over time. If that happens they will scratch over the playfield. You really don't want this.
The spacers should have the thickness only of the difference between standard playfields and spooky R&M ones. Not more. That's the way and that will work for sure without side effects.
It's really not. I know the math doesn't work out (it should be like 1-1.5mm thick), but I looked at both Stern and williams games, and they are all 1/16" off the playfield and 4-4.5mm is the thickness needed to do that. If you want to go higher, you can always raise your flippers.. but if the post is too tall, you can't go any lower.
So I started to do the right flipper last night and ran into a problem. Both the countdown timer pcb and the acrylic lens overlap the corner of the flipper bracket. This is due to Scott cramming 10lbs of parts into a 5lb bag (bless his heart). As I was dis-assembling it, the acrylic goes down first against the playfield, then the metal corner of the flipper bracket goes over that, then the corner of the pcb goes over that. I don't understand the purpose of the acrylic lens honestly unless they are trying to distill the light (they left the protective film on). I left mine off and it looks just fine. But to that point, I had to add a cutout in one of the washers so the board sits flat.
While adding the spacers I managed to yank one of the cables going to the display, and another board on the left (both were hot glued and still came out because they are not locking connectors), plus I yanked one of the thin wires going to the right sling switch. Be very aware of what you're doing while messing under the playfield.
With that said, 24 screws to do all 4 flippers is going to add a $1, and if I do a small padded envelope I think shipping is actually going to be $4 so I need $5 to break even. I'll have 200 screws on tuesday.
1 (resized).jpg2 (resized).jpg3 (resized).jpg
Toronto, ON
Someone needs to create something to go over the displays to keep the connectors in place. Already had to hot glue the top one twice!
Quoted from BowlingJim:17 months I waited for my game to have this happen.
I fell and broke my wrist and have to wear this for the next 8 weeks.
[quoted image]
Oh man! Hope you heal well and fast.
Quoted from WizardsCastle:Someone needs to create something to go over the displays to keep the connectors in place. Already had to hot glue the top one twice!
Quoted from darkryder:Joining the club with a NIB blood suckers edition today. This game looks epic, cannot wait to play it!
That was fast! Congrats, great game!
Quoted from Zablon:That was fast! Congrats, great game!
I think you should edit your post - some interesting browsing history there...
Quoted from P1nhead:I think you should edit your post - some interesting browsing history there...
I have zero idea how that happened. That was a week ago. If you think that was interesting good thing it wasn't today's!
Quoted from BowlingJim:17 months I waited for my game to have this happen.
I fell and broke my wrist and have to wear this for the next 8 weeks.
[quoted image]
Aww bummer, maybe playing pinball can be part of your rehab though
Quoted from Ty-Arnold:I'm very interested in Spooky. I will try to get their next game if I like the title. How many more Rick and Morty until it's finished?
Line is finishing up last R&M now. Next title announced in June.
Quoted from WizardsCastle:Anyone know why this is happening on the portal protector?
Do I need a raft, or need to change the heat on the bed?
[quoted image]
is that a brim on the outside? looks like your nozzle isnt close enough to the bed
Quoted from BowlingJim:17 months I waited for my game to have this happen.
I fell and broke my wrist and have to wear this for the next 8 weeks.
[quoted image]
Bummer! Hope you’re back to flippin (two handed) ASAP!
But you can still play... 2 people on 1 pin can be fun you’ll just be stuck on the left side. 
Quoted from WizardsCastle:Anyone know why this is happening on the portal protector?
Do I need a raft, or need to change the heat on the bed?
I always use rafts. I figure it's either waste it on rafts or on entire aborted prints.
I don't print stuff very often, though.
Gonna try a glass bed soon, I hear good things.
Quoted from WizardsCastle:Anyone know why this is happening on the portal protector?
Do I need a raft, or need to change the heat on the bed?
[quoted image]
I almost never use rafts. Waste of material, and they make the bottom of your print look like crap. If you have a tall print, I'd do glue stick before a raft.
It looks like your head is too far from your bed for your print and maybe your bed is not hot enough. What are your temps, and what is the filament material and brand?
Quoted from WizardsCastle:Anyone know why this is happening on the portal protector?
Do I need a raft, or need to change the heat on the bed?
[quoted image]
Oh boy do I have a lot of portal protector stuff to talk about tonight...
First, to print it...I recommend printing it with the "lip" side down. (example picture attached) I can't tell if you are doing that based on the picture. Also, as I said in one of my earlier posts, it needs printed with 0 perimeters (unless you are using TPU).
Second, if you are grabbing my designs directly from the OnShape file...you're good. If not, stop what you're doing 
. I've iterated a ton today and the file on thingiverse is not up to date.
Third...I thought I had it...hammer blows, bending, hundreds of balls...PETG still cannot handle the force of my flippers on the May "beta" code with the spacers installed. Today I noticed a small crack on the inside of the protector and I wouldn't be surprised if it started to spider out.
Since I refuse to give up I decided to test TPU like was talked about early on in this adventure. I did not think that TPU would give me the protection needed but boy was I wrong! Tonight I did about four hours of different TPU tests and I am now 99% confident this solution will work the best! I won't bore you with the tests, or the story of how I changed the design and printing method, but trust me it works so much better.
Everyone who has purchased one of my protectors will receive a PM tomorrow (sorry I'm exhausted tonight) explaining the new options. Basically, you can call me a fool and I'll return your money immediately or you can accept the TPU version. For the people I've already shipped to, I will recommend waiting to receive the TPU version before you install. I think the TPU product is so much better that I will not be shipping it going forward. If you choose to install the PETG version, chances are it will be fine for days, maybe even months...but I cannot fully trust it.
I'm happy to report NOTHING changes with the visual! It looks exactly as amazing as the PETG version did (maybe even more??). Also the installation is MUCH easier with the added advantage of being able to remove it without damaging it. I am blown away by this material!
Last but not least I wanted to show everyone a quick video of a final protector
As you can see, this stuff is really flexible yet very firm on the edge.
I know my posts are becoming stupid long...sorry for that. I probably should start another thread all about R&M 3D printed parts or something. Let me know if everyone is getting annoyed with this shit.
Thanks again for keeping up with my prints and thank you to everyone willing to fund this experiment!!
protectorBlueLight (resized).jpegprotectorPrinting (resized).jpgQuoted from WizardsCastle:Duuuuuude... You're freaking awesome!
Going to print it now with to match these...[quoted image]
Is that a glow in the dark spacer??? Nice!!
Realizing that people are printing this...I figured I'll attach my draft instruction sheet. Everyone who buys one will receive it of course, but if you want to attempt on your own this guide might help you.
The key callout is to remind everyone that the X shape is simply to help align the "washer" pads. You can bend that thing around all you want until you get it into position.
Xspacer_Installation.pdfQuoted from Aniraf:Since I refuse to give up I decided to test TPU like was talked about early on in this adventure. I did not think that TPU would give me the protection needed but boy was I wrong!
Ignore the Monk at your peril.
Glad you are on the right track now! Looks great. Did you go with NinjaFlex or generic TPU?
Quoted from PinMonk:Never doubt the Monk.
Glad you are on the right track now! Looks great...
Yep. I ordered TPU the same day we were discussing it. I never had a reason to use it before, but now that I understand it I am going to make reasons!
I am still impressed that I was able to get the PETG to work so well! I just do not want to ship something that ends up failing. It needs to be pretty damn perfect if I am putting my name behind it.
Quoted from Aniraf:Yep. I ordered TPU the same day we were discussing it. I never had a reason to use it before, but now that I understand it I am going to make reasons!
I am still impressed that I was able to get the PETG to work so well! I just do not want to ship something that ends up failing. It needs to be pretty damn perfect if I am putting my name behind it.
There are lots of great uses for it, and your part was the ideal application for it since it's designed to take repeated direct and indirect ball hits.
Oh, and @pinmonk, if you are so inclined I would love to see coil temps before and after flipper adjustment. You could use shaved bushings or spacers. I just dropped my flippers coils down again because of airballs! I can’t help but wonder if the “cleaner” impact translates to the coil temp.
Quoted from Aniraf:Oh, and PinMonk, if you are so inclined I would love to see coil temps before and after flipper adjustment. You could use shaved bushings or spacers. I just dropped my flippers coils down again because of airballs! I can’t help but wonder if the “cleaner” impact translates to the coil temp.
It seems like, at the very least, it should slow the progression of heat building in the coil because the flipper isn't working as hard. That should give a player more time before noticeable fade. That's my guess, anyway. I have to do another round of temp tests with the newer code anyway, so maybe we'll do a case for this, too.
Quoted from PinMonk:It seems like, at the very least, it should slow the progression of heat building in the coil because the flipper isn't working as hard. That should give a player more time before noticeable fade. That's my guess, anyway. I have to do another round of temp tests with the newer code anyway, so maybe we'll do a case for this, too.
Right. I absolutely don’t want to create work for you but your tests have been awesome.
Quoted from PinMonk:It seems like, at the very least, it should slow the progression of heat building in the coil because the flipper isn't working as hard. That should give a player more time before noticeable fade. That's my guess, anyway. I have to do another round of temp tests with the newer code anyway, so maybe we'll do a case for this, too.
*Flipper power settings reduce, because ... less waste now, reduced power setting for the same kind of shot speeds.
Power set lower then means less heat generated per flip.
Means then less heat.
Proper height also improves consistency and accuracy a fair bit, compared to high and driving downward.
My flippers make rocket balls set at 28 , sails up that left ramp even from a trap.
Quoted from Aniraf:Right. I absolutely don’t want to create work for you but your tests have been awesome.
Thank you, but it's important to note that I had plenty of help with the temp testing, especially on the Spooky machines. I did send out temp kits I made and give direction to the volunteers about how to gather temps, but there was a lot of community support to gather those coil temps over time and get a more accurate picture.
I don't plan on stopping, so don't worry about that. I intend to gather even more data points to try to help minimize the effects of fade and will keep sharing what I find.
Quoted from Aniraf:Oh boy do I have a lot of portal protector stuff to talk about tonight...
First, to print it...I recommend printing it with the "lip" side down. (example picture attached) I can't tell if you are doing that based on the picture. Also, as I said in one of my earlier posts, it needs printed with 0 perimeters (unless you are using TPU).
Second, if you are grabbing my designs directly from the OnShape file...you're good. If not, stop what you're doing . I've iterated a ton today and the file on thingiverse is not up to date.
Third...I thought I had it...hammer blows, bending, hundreds of balls...PETG still cannot handle the force of my flippers on the May "beta" code with the spacers installed. Today I noticed a small crack on the inside of the protector and I wouldn't be surprised if it started to spider out.
Since I refuse to give up I decided to test TPU like was talked about early on in this adventure. I did not think that TPU would give me the protection needed but boy was I wrong! Tonight I did about four hours of different TPU tests and I am now 99% confident this solution will work the best! I won't bore you with the tests, or the story of how I changed the design and printing method, but trust me it works so much better.
Everyone who has purchased one of my protectors will receive a PM tomorrow (sorry I'm exhausted tonight) explaining the new options. Basically, you can call me a fool and I'll return your money immediately or you can accept the TPU version. For the people I've already shipped to, I will recommend waiting to receive the TPU version before you install. I think the TPU product is so much better that I will not be shipping it going forward. If you choose to install the PETG version, chances are it will be fine for days, maybe even months...but I cannot fully trust it.
I'm happy to report NOTHING changes with the visual! It looks exactly as amazing as the PETG version did (maybe even more??). Also the installation is MUCH easier with the added advantage of being able to remove it without damaging it. I am blown away by this material!
Last but not least I wanted to show everyone a quick video of a final protector
As you can see, this stuff is really flexible yet very firm on the edge.
I know my posts are becoming stupid long...sorry for that. I probably should start another thread all about R&M 3D printed parts or something. Let me know if everyone is getting annoyed with this shit.
Thanks again for keeping up with my prints and thank you to everyone willing to fund this experiment!!
[quoted image][quoted image]
I don't have a 3D Printer. Can I please buy one of these off or you (Glow in the dark)?
I an amazing run of 225+ MILLION points on Rick & Morty pinball last night. Check it out!
Twitch:
https://t.co/H5OtuxfH2A
Youtube:
https://t.co/XE1tDgx9MB
if anyone has a standard edition and wants to add some purple I have no need for my stock ramp and hinges (replaced them with aftermarket). PM an offer, assume shipping will likely be like $15
r+m wireform plus hinges (resized).jpg
* edit: I'll sweeten the deal and add the spacers+screws and 2 cable lockdown in the box
Quoted from toyotaboy:if anyone has a standard edition and wants to add some purple I have no need for my stock ramp and hinges (replaced them with aftermarket). PM an offer, assume shipping will likely be like $15[quoted image]
Ditto this... once Toyotaboy's set sells, if there is someone still looking for these, then mine are available as well. But hit up toyotaboy first...
Quoted from jonesjb:I don't have a 3D Printer. Can I please buy one of these off or you (Glow in the dark)?
I don’t have a glow in the dark firmament, only transparent green which “glows” when it picks up the blue light. It looks like this when the light is white.
04E06099-E325-4034-84A9-32B347C05DF0 (resized).jpegQuoted from PinMonk:Did you go with NinjaFlex or generic TPU?
I ended up using a MatterHackers TPU that looked almost exactly the same as the Prusament I was using. I'm very pleased with the material thus far. It took me almost no time to get it printing and the results are awesome! https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/translucent-green-mh-build-series-tpu-flexible-filament-175mm-1kg/sk/MHKHHWUR
Quoted from Aniraf:I don’t have a glow in the dark firmament, only transparent green which “glows” when it picks up the blue light. It looks like this when the light is white.
[quoted image]
Sorry, either way… that looks beautiful. Can I buy one of what you have there?
Quoted from toyotaboy:if anyone has a standard edition and wants to add some purple I have no need for my stock ramp and hinges (replaced them with aftermarket). PM an offer, assume shipping will likely be like $15
[quoted image]
* edit: I'll sweeten the deal and add the spacers+screws and 2 cable lockdown in the box
PM sent. Thanks brother.
Quoted from Coyohtay:I an amazing run of 225+ MILLION points on Rick & Morty pinball last night. Check it out!
Twitch:
https://t.co/H5OtuxfH2A
Youtube:
https://t.co/XE1tDgx9MB
Incredible! It’s always a great time watching you guys stream on Twitch. Thanks for representing and promoting this community in a great way.
What are the must do mods for this game? I just played the first few games on mine today. This pin is super deep and fun! The playfield glass is rattling a lot, same as my Alice Cooper did. I’ll try installing some anti-rattle tape and turning down the bass. Also, the glass that came with it doesn’t appear to be Invisiglass...I just want to confirm before ordering a sheet of PDI or Invisiglass
017C1245-71A6-43BA-951C-6454B83BCFC6 (resized).jpeg11851396-F7AD-4EA5-AB57-3D7E3ABF2442 (resized).jpeg4A652C6D-FAA2-4C1A-B3A4-BB9ED6BFBA0B (resized).jpeg
Melbourne
Quoted from Coyohtay:I an amazing run of 225+ MILLION points on Rick & Morty pinball last night. Check it out!
Twitch:
https://t.co/H5OtuxfH2A
Youtube:
https://t.co/XE1tDgx9MB
50 mega seeds!! Holy heck
Quoted from darkryder:What are the must do mods for this game? I just played the first few games on mine today. This pin is super deep and fun! The playfield glass is rattling a lot, same as my Alice Cooper did. I’ll try installing some anti-rattle tape and turning down the bass.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Awesome score DR. I’ve had my R&M for 2-3 weeks now and having a ball. Even wifey loves it which is surprising given she doesn’t watch R&M, doesn’t particularly like pinball and isn’t a great player… which on R&M should be a bad combo!
Everything you should do has been mentioned within these pages, my suggestion is to work through the “key posts” for this thread, all the must do’s are in there.
Mine was a clunky noise box straight out of the box, but is starting to play really smoothly and is now rattle free.
I've done:
Updated to the latest firmware
Added 5mm high density foam spacer around sub woofer
Added anti rattle tape to glass
Shaved 3mm (1/8”) from the flipper bushings
Manipulated the garage and inner orbit ball guides to create a smoother ball path
Moved the ball guide above the upper right flipper to smoothly meet the flipper
Adjusted the flipper hold strength
Adjusted the pop bumper, plunge strength
Adjusted the target sensitivity
Added hot glue to a couple of connectors which were coming loose
I think that’s it.
My suggestion is to watch a few different streams, especially that recent 225mill game as it seems to shoot very smoothly. You’ll then be able to work out where yours needs attention.
And no it comes with standard glass. I’ve added PDI and some home made pinstadiums. Looks mint!
Quoted from Coyohtay:I an amazing run of 225+ MILLION points on Rick & Morty pinball last night. Check it out!
Twitch:
https://t.co/H5OtuxfH2A
Youtube:
https://t.co/XE1tDgx9MB
That bonus
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:Awesome score DR. I’ve had my R&M for 2-3 weeks now and having a ball. Even wifey loves it which is surprising given she doesn’t watch R&M, doesn’t particularly like pinball and isn’t a great player… which on R&M should be a bad combo!
Everything you should do has been mentioned within these pages, my suggestion is to work through the “key posts” for this thread, all the must do’s are in there.
Mine was a clunky noise box straight out of the box, but is starting to play really smoothly and is now rattle free.
If done:
Updated to the latest firmware
Added 5mm high density foam spacer around sub woofer
Added a to rattle tape to glass
Shaved 3mm (1/8”) from the flipper bushings
Manipulated the garage and inner orbit ball guides to create a smoother ball path
Moved the ball guide above the upper right flipper to smoothly meet the flipper
Adjusted the flipper hold strength
Adjusted the pop bumper, plunge strength
Adjusted the target sensitivity
Added hot glue to a couple of connectors which were coming loose
I think that’s it.
My suggestion is to watch a few different streams, especially that recent 225mill game as it seems to shoot very smoothly. You’ll then be able to work out where yours needs attention.
And no it comes with standard glass. I’ve added PDI and some home made pinstadiums. Looks mint!
[quoted image]
Thanks for the pointers Flynny! I’ll dig through this thread to determine what needs addressing, but so far the game plays smoothly right out of the box. I’ve never watched a single episode of R&M, but I like pins with strong adult humor and profanity, lol.
I found the ModCouple site and will be ordering a number of their mods for the game. Can’t wait to dig into the rules and experience more of this Spooky masterpiece!
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